CN1505710A - A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same - Google Patents

A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1505710A
CN1505710A CNA028090136A CN02809013A CN1505710A CN 1505710 A CN1505710 A CN 1505710A CN A028090136 A CNA028090136 A CN A028090136A CN 02809013 A CN02809013 A CN 02809013A CN 1505710 A CN1505710 A CN 1505710A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
fabric
component
fastness
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Pending
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CNA028090136A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
郑相优
郑载勋
尹浚荣
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kolon Industries Inc
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Kolon Industries Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from KR10-2001-0022597A external-priority patent/KR100375247B1/en
Priority claimed from KR10-2001-0022595A external-priority patent/KR100375245B1/en
Priority claimed from KR1020010022594A external-priority patent/KR100362031B1/en
Application filed by Kolon Industries Inc filed Critical Kolon Industries Inc
Publication of CN1505710A publication Critical patent/CN1505710A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0111One hairy surface, e.g. napped or raised
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Abstract

The present invention discloses a knitted fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same. More particularly, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed component selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs on the face and/or back and has a wash fastness of more than level 2-3 and a light fastness of more than level (5). In addition, in the process of the present invention, a sea-island type conjugate fiber is used in which a dope dyed component such as carbon black or the like is contained in a fiber forming component as a face yarn and/or back yarn. The knitted fabric of the present invention is used for materials of artificial leathers or ladies' clothes.

Description

Knitted fabric and manufacture method thereof with good fastness to washing and fastness to light
Background of invention
Invention field
The present invention relates to a kind of knitted fabric and manufacture method thereof with good fastness to washing and fastness to light.
Attenuate its crooked powerful the reduction as fruit fiber.Therefore, because the fabric made with superfine Denier fibre has good soft feel, it is very active to have certain commercial-scale research and development relevant with superfine fibre.In addition, the development of the superfine synthetic yarn production technology value that caused being used for the photosensitive material commodity of clothes increases substantially.
Correlation technique is introduced
Usually, the preparation method of superfine Denier fibre is divided into three kinds: the direct fabrics method; Bi-component separation type spinning process; The lysotype spinning process.In the direct fabrics method, may produce the superfine Denier fibre of 0.3~0.5 DENIER.In bi-component separation type spinning process, may produce the superfine Denier fibre of 0.2 DENIER.In the lysotype spinning process, may produce 0.001 DENIER or thinner superfine Denier fibre.
Preparing the various commodity production relevant with textile applications with superfine Denier fibre constantly develops.But,, particularly in the warp-knitted fabric Application Areas, owing in warping and back operation, can produce fault, utilize superfine Denier fibre to manufacture a product not have developed in the knitted fabric Application Areas.
If the superfine Denier fibre of 0.3~0.5 DENIER that will make with the direct fabrics method is used for through compiling, then because a large amount of filaments disperse to make warp quality and knitting quality very poor.And, because the specific area of yarn increases, make that its napping character and processing characteristics are very poor, the tricot that obtains out-of-flatness in the fiber of its napping, presentation quality is very poor.
If will be used for by the 0.2 DENIER super fine denier nylon/polyester conjugate fibre that bi-component separation type conjugate spinning method makes through compiling, the warp quality of tricot, knitting quality and napping poor quality, this is because nylon and polyester objectionable intermingling, when they are subjected to tension force and frictional force in warping and knitting process, the cause that nylon and polyester are disconnected from each other.And, because by the fiber out-of-flatness of napping, the surface quality of the warp-knitted fabric that makes is very poor.In addition, because nylon and polyester mix, tricot is difficult to dyeing, so its dyefastness is very low.
If will do sea component with the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali, do the island component with normal polyester, make tricot by 0.001~0.3 DENIER fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre that bi-component lysotype spinning process makes, warp quality, napping quality and weaving quality are all fine; But because the dyeability of polyester (island component) is bad, the fastness to washing and the fastness to light of warp-knitted fabric are poor.
Therefore, the objective of the invention is to make a kind of knitted fabric with good fastness to washing and fastness to light.Use a kind of dope dyeing component that contains to make the upper thread of knitted fabric and/or carry on the back yarn when this knitted fabric is knitting as the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre that fiber forms component, after weaving warp-knitted fabric or knitting method of tubular knit fabric, with the sea component dissolving of fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre, can omit dyeing process.
The invention brief introduction
The invention provides a kind of knitted fabric with good fastness to washing and fastness to light and preparation method thereof, this knitted fabric has good processing performance for example warping and knitting property.
For reaching above purpose, the invention provides a kind of knitted fabric with good fastness to washing and fastness to light, a kind of ultra fine yarn is contained at this fabric face or the back side, contain dope dyeing components such as carbon black, pigment and dyestuff in the ultra fine yarn, the fastness to washing of this knitted fabric surpasses 2~3 grades, and fastness to light is above 5 grades.
In addition, the present invention also provides the preparation method of a kind of good fastness to washing and fastness to light knitted fabric, in this method, use veil and/or the back of the body yarn of fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre as fabric, this conjugate fibre is to be made of component that forms fiber and solubilized component, contain the dope dyeing component that 0.1~15 weight % is selected from carbon black, pigment and dyestuff in the component of formation fiber, the solubilized component is diffluent polymer.
Now, will describe the present invention.
Knitted fabric of the present invention comprises tricot and weft-knitted fabric.
At first, the ultra fine yarn that has stoste dyestuff compositions such as containing carbon black, pigment and dyestuff on the front of knitted fabric of the present invention or the back side.Above-mentioned ultra fine yarn is to form like this: with front and/or the back side of bi-component lysotype conjugate fibre as knitted fabric, it is the polyester that contains stoste dyestuff composition that the fiber of this conjugate fibre forms component, the solubilized component is the polymer of Yi Rong, the solubilized component is dissolved in follow-up operation again.
That is to say that in order to improve processing characteristics, use bi-component lysotype conjugate fibre to make veil and/or back of the body yarn, knitting, napping falls the solubilized components dissolved then, it is ultra-fine that the knitted fabric fiber is become.
As easy insoluble polymer may, preferably use the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali.For example: blend comprise (I) with the Polyethyleneglycol Terephthalate be the copolymerized type polyester that forms of main component and the copolymerization of metal sulfamate ester (ii) number-average molecular weight greater than 8000 polyethylene glycol as easy insoluble polymer may.In addition, water miscible polyvinyl alcohol or polystyrene polymer such as (polystylene) also can be used as dissolve polymer.But polystyrene is imperfect because its when dissolving used solvent can cause environmental pollution.
Specifically be,, when spinning the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre, in fiber formation component, to have added dope dyeing component for fastness to washing and the fastness to light that improves knitted fabric according to the present invention.Employed dope dyeing component is more than one a component in carbon black, pigment and the dyestuff.If only use carbon black, the ultra fine yarn of gained (island component) is a black.If wish ultra fine yarn other color that is different from black is arranged, just should reasonably select different pigment or dyestuff.
For example, dyestuff comprises that soluble dye (Eastwell company) is as the yellow S-4G of Papition, the red S-GL of Papition, blue S-GL of Papition or the like, pigment comprises BASF AG's product such as the blue D 7030 of Heliogen, the red L3885 of Paliogen, yellow D1819 Heliogen of Paliotol or the like.The pigment and the dyestuff that will have the RGB color reasonably mix, and just can obtain desired color.In addition, if the percetage by weight of carbon black is less than 5% in the component of island, just can obtain the grey knitted fabric.Dope dyeing component comprises the dyestuff or the pigment of black.
The content of dope dyeing component is 0.1~15% of fiber formation component (ultra fine yarn) weight.If the percetage by weight content of dope dyeing component is less than 0.1%, the fastness to washing of fabric and fastness to light improve very little, if greater than 15%, spinning properties reduces.
Knitted fabric among the present invention comprises tricot, the positive covering weave of this tricot is to be made by the ultra fine yarn that contains dope dyeing component, back side tissue is high-shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn, between the front and back tissue of this tricot the intermediate structure that is made into by the elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn can also be arranged.
Tricot of the present invention will be described in detail hereinafter.
The monofilament fineness of positive covering weave yarn (ultra fine yarn) is preferably 0.001~0.3 DENIER.If monofilament fineness is greater than 0.3 DENIER, the durability of napping quality and napping fiber improves, but the feel hardening refers to that trace can reduce.If fineness is less than 0.001 DENIER, pliability increases, but the fiber of napping drops out easily or because of friction twines into one, makes the degraded appearance of fabric.
High-shrinkage yarn and synthetic fiber yarn (hereinafter to be referred as back of the body yarn) are preferably used polyester.In order to improve fastness to washing and fastness to light, dope dyeing component content can be 0.1~15% of back of the body yarn weight.
Preferred 1~5 DENIER of monofilament fineness of back of the body yarn.If monofilament fineness less than 1 DENIER, is difficult to make warp-knitted fabric (finished fabric) to obtain suitable repellency (repulsiveness).If monofilament fineness is greater than 5 DENIER, warping and processing characteristics such as knitting just may worsen, and perhaps the repellency between the knitted fabric is too big, is difficult to make the front of fabric to show soft characteristic.
High-shrinkage yarn is preferably used copolymerized type polyester.Bisphenol-A, polyethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and similar substance etc. can be used as the copolymer composition.But copolymer composition of the present invention is not limited in above several material.
Simultaneously, if with the yarn of elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn (yarn in the middle of the hereinafter referred), because the contraction of intermediate structure is increased the fibre density of positive covering weave significantly as intermediate structure.Because the elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn as middle yarn has excellent elasticity, improved the fibre density of the positive covering weave of finished fabric, thereby improved the flexibility of warp-knitted fabric and given its excellent elasticity and repellency.Preferred 30~90 DENIER of fineness that spandex yarn is total.
When knitting, the content of veil is 40~87% of finished product tricot gross weight.If content is less than 40%, the flexibility of warp-knitted fabric is with regard to possible deviation, if content greater than 87 weight %, the relative reduction of content of middle yarn and veil obtains to such an extent that the drapability and the physical and mechanical properties of fabric will worsen.
Simultaneously, middle yarn and the back of the body yarn content be preferably respectively finished fabric gross weight 0~20% and 13~60%.If content exceeds above-mentioned scope, the flexibility of tricot reduces.If be lower than above-mentioned scope, the shape stability of fabric and drapability variation.
The finished product tricot obtains by steps such as napping, preheating, loss of weight (removing the solubilized component), polishing and heat treatments.
The present invention can omit dyeing owing to contain dope dyeing component in the ultra fine yarn.But, may also adopt dyeing for adjusting the color of warp-knitted fabric.If also adopt dyeing, preferably less than 3%o.w.f (calculating by fabric weight), the density of finished product warp-knitted fabric is preferably 40~60 circle/inches to the concentration of dyestuff.
Warp-knitted fabric of the present invention has good fastness to washing and fastness to light, and this is because contain the dope dyeing component of black in the veil of fabric or veil and the back of the body yarn.Specifically be,, do not need dyeing process,, also only need a kind of additional dyeing process of only using 3.0%o.w.f dyestuff (based on Powdered dyestuff) even need for obtaining required color.Certainly, even need this dyeing process, only just can achieve the goal by the method that in the component of island, increases dope dyeing component content with the 3.0%o.w.f dyestuff.
Adopting the main purpose of additional dyeing is that warp-knitted fabric is become another kind of color by a kind of color, and this additional dyeing uses a kind of given spun-dyed fibre to be raw material.In additional dyeing, why the consumption of dyestuff being limited in dyestuff powder is within the 3.0%o.w.f., is that the fastness to washing of fabric and fastness to light will sharply descend because if dye dosage surpasses above-mentioned scope.
Fastness to washing and fastness to light and dye dosage are inversely proportional to.For ultra fine yarn, its specific area is more much bigger than the specific area of common yarn, so its fastness must be low.But if working concentration is about 50% liquid dyes, because its concentration is much smaller than Powdered dyestuff, dye strength can be up to 6.0%o.w.f..
Therefore, the fastness scope of the spun-dyed fibre that obtains among the present invention is respectively: fastness to washing surpasses 2~3 grades, and fastness to light is above 5 grades.
In addition, because the veil that adopts among the present invention is a bi-component lysotype yarn, warp-knitted fabric has good machinability, and is fine as warp quality and knitting quality.Simultaneously, in the operation of back, dissolve dissolved constituent because obtaining ultra-fine veil, warp-knitted fabric is fine aspect finger trace and flexibility.
Simultaneously, warp-knitted fabric of the present invention has solved the too soft problem of feel that occurs when adopting traditional double components dissolved type yarn to prepare warp-knitted fabric, because the back of the body yarn that it adopts is the thick denier yarn with suitable dawn number.And fabric shows good drapability.Particularly, when the centre tissue is to be made into by the spandex yarn suede with favorable elasticity, back side tissue is when being made into by high-shrinkage yarn, and the ultra fine yarn density of positive covering weave becomes bigger, so elongation recovery and the flexibility of warp-knitted fabric on vertical and horizontal becomes better.
Knitted fabric of the present invention also comprises weft-knitted fabric, and the front and back of this knitted fabric is that the blended fiber silk by the ultra fine yarn that contains dope dyeing component or this ultra fine yarn and high-shrinkage yarn constitutes.
Hereinafter will be described in detail weft-knitted fabric of the present invention.
Be to improve the flexibility of finished product, the boiling water shrinkage of high-shrinkage yarn that is used for producing air-jet method textured fibre silk is more preferably greater than 15%.Specifically, polyester and similar polymer can be used as high-shrinkage yarn.
If ultra fine yarn or its blended fiber silk are used for making any one side at the fabric face and the back side, the thick denier yarn of the most handy polyester fiber silk of another side of this fabric.For improving fastness to washing and fastness to light, the percetage by weight of the dope dyeing component in the thick denier yarn can be 0.1~15%.
The monofilament fineness of thick denier yarn is preferably 0.5~5 DENIER.If monofilament fineness less than 0.5 DENIER, is difficult to make fabric tube to have suitable repellency.If monofilament fineness is greater than 5 DENIER, warping and knitting process industrial art performance variation, perhaps the repellency of weft-knitted fabric is too big, so that fabric face has been difficult to flexibility.
Hereinafter will more specifically introduce and how prepare weft-knitted fabric according to the present invention.At first, do veil and back of the body yarn, knittingly on the cylinder type knitting machine go out weft-knitted fabric with the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre or by the blended fiber gauze that fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre and high shrinkage yarn are formed.Wherein, the fiber of employed fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre forms the dope dyeing components such as carbon black, pigment and dyestuff that contain 0.1~15% (percetage by weight) in the component, and the solubilized component is the polymer of Yi Rong.
Simultaneously, also can do veil or back of the body yarn with the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre or by the mixed fiber yarn that fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre and high shrinkage yarn are formed, be the yarn that the coarse denier polyester yarn of 0.5~5 DENIER is made the fabric another side with monofilament fineness.
Second step, the fabric tube that makes to be carried out the alkali loss of weight handle, the solubilized component (sea component) that dissolves the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre obtains superfine fibre.
Fabric tube among the present invention contains dope dyeing component in superfine fibre, so dyeing process can omit.But,, can adopt additional dyeing for adjusting the color of fabric tube.In this additional dyeing, even dye strength also can obtain enough dark color less than 5%, the consumption of dyestuff just can reduce like this.
Because contain the black dope dyeing component in the superfine fibre silk of formation fabric tube of the present invention or the mixed yarn of ultra fine yarn and thick denier yarn, so their fastness to washing and fastness to light are fine.Specifically be, fastness to washing is greater than 2~3 grades, and fastness to light is greater than 5 grades.And knitted fabric of the present invention is knitting owing to carrying out at fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre state, so have good processing properties; Simultaneously, because the solubilized component in the knitted fabric yarn dissolves in subsequent technique, yarn becomes superfine fibre, makes fabric have good pliability.
Inventive embodiments
At this, can understanding more specifically be arranged to the present invention by comparison to some embodiments of the invention and Comparative Examples.But the present invention is not limited only to these embodiment.
The warp-knitted fabric product
Embodiment 1
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric.Wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, and the filamentary elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn in 40 dawn/5 is as middle yarn, and content of carbon black is the filamentary polyester multi-filament in 50 dawn/24 (mass colouration yarn) the conduct back of the body yarn of 3 weight %.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by as to form content of carbon black that fiber forms component be the polyethylene terephthalate of 4 weight % and forms as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters (dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate), 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the ratio of the veil weight in this tricot, middle yarn weight and back of the body yarn weight is set at 55%:10%:35%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, preboarding then, and loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution that 98 ℃ of concentration are 1%o.w.s., polishing, last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.At this moment, no longer dye.The performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric is as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 2
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, the filamentary elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn in 40 dawn/5 is as middle yarn, and the filamentary polyester conjugate long filament in 50 dawn/24 (non-mass colouration yarn) is as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by being that the polyethylene terephthalate of 3 weight % and the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate that is used as the solubilized component are formed as the content of carbon black that forms fibre fractionation, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the ratio of the veil weight in this tricot, middle yarn weight and back of the body yarn weight is set at 55%: 10%: 35%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 2%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.Above-mentioned warp-knitted fabric under the condition of 120 ℃ (pH=4.5), utilizes typical rapid dyeing engine dyeing look 45 minutes with black disperse dye (concentration is 2%o.w.f.), washes last 160 ℃ of setting then.Utilize the performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric of this method dyeing as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 3
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, the filamentary elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn in 40 dawn/5 is as middle yarn, 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate long filaments (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by as forming containing polyethylene terephthalate that the yellow S-4G of soluble dye Papilion (Eastwell company product) is 5 weight % and forming as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component of fibre fractionation, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component at 0.07 Neil dawn.At this moment, the ratio of the veil weight in this tricot, middle yarn weight and back of the body yarn weight is set at 55%: 10%: 35%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.The evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric is as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 4
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, the filamentary elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn in 40 dawn/5 is as middle yarn, 50 dawn/24 filament high-contraction polyesters (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is formed by the polyethylene terephthalate that is 4 weight % as blue D7030 (BASF product) pigment content of the Heliogen that forms fibre fractionation with as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the ratio of the veil weight in this tricot, middle yarn weight and back of the body yarn weight is set at 55%: 10%: 35%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.The evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric is as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 5
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, content of carbon black is that 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate long filaments (mass colouration yarn) of 3 weight % are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by being that the polyethylene terephthalate of 4 weight % and the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate that is used as the solubilized component are formed as the content of carbon black that forms fibre fractionation, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the veil weight in this tricot is set at 45%: 55% with the ratio of back of the body yarn weight.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.At this moment, to the fabric processing of not dyeing.The performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric is as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 6
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, here, lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate long filaments (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by being the polyethylene terephthalate of 3 weight % as the content of carbon black that forms fibre fractionation and forming as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that the solubilized component contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate that what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the veil weight in this tricot is set at 45%: 55% with the ratio of back of the body yarn weight.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.Above-mentioned warp-knitted fabric under the condition of 120 ℃ (pH=4.5), utilizes typical rapid dyeing engine dyeing look 45 minutes with black disperse dye (concentration is 2%o.w.f.), washes then, last 160 ℃ of setting down.Utilize the performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric of this method dyeing as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 7
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate long filaments (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by as forming containing polyethylene terephthalate that the yellow S-4G of soluble dye Papilion (Eastwell company product) is 5 weight % and forming as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component of fibre fractionation, and what obtain after the solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the ratio of veil weight in this tricot and back of the body yarn weight is set at 45%: 55%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.The performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric is as shown in table 1.
Embodiment 8
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is as veil, the filamentary elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn in 40 dawn/5 is as middle yarn, 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate yarns (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is formed by the polyethylene terephthalate that is 4 weight % as blue D7030 (BASF product) pigment content of the Heliogen that forms fibre fractionation with as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its dissolved constituent dissolves is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the ratio of veil weight in this tricot and back of the body yarn weight is set at 45%: 55%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.The performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric is as shown in table 1.
Comparative Examples 1
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (non-mass colouration yarn) is as veil, 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate long filaments (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by forming as the polyethylene terephthalate that forms fibre fractionation with as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its dissolved constituent dissolves is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the ratio of veil weight in this tricot and back of the body yarn weight is set at 45%: 55%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.Above-mentioned warp-knitted fabric under the condition of 120 ℃ (pH=4.5), utilizes typical rapid dyeing engine dyeing look 45 minutes with black disperse dye (concentration is 12.5%o.w.f.).Utilize the performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric of this method dyeing as shown in table 1.
Comparative Examples 2
Prepared density and be 23 circles/centimetre warp-knitted fabric, wherein lysotype conjugate fibre (non-mass colouration yarn) is as veil, the filamentary elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn in 40 dawn/5 is as middle yarn, and 50 dawn/24 filament polyester conjugate long filaments (non-mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by forming as the polyethylene terephthalate that forms fibre fractionation with as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.07 DENIER.At this moment, the veil weight in this tricot, the ratio of middle yarn weight and back of the body yarn weight is set at 55%: 10%: 35%.The tricot that obtains is with 50% shrinkage napping, and preboarding then is that loss of weight was handled 40 minutes in the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. at 98 ℃, concentration, polishing, and last 180 ℃ of setting form the warp-knitting finished fabric.Above-mentioned warp-knitted fabric under the condition of 120 ℃ (pH=4.5), utilizes typical rapid dyeing engine dyeing look 45 minutes with black disperse dye (concentration is 12.5%o.w.f.).Utilize the performance evaluation result of finished product warp-knitted fabric of this method dyeing as shown in table 1.
Table 1 processing characteristics and warp-knitted fabric performance
Class Processing characteristics The warp-knitted fabric performance
Warping Braiding Fastness to washing Fastness to light Feel (softness) Repellency
Embodiment 1 ??◎ ??◎ Level 5 Level 7 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 2 ??◎ ??◎ Level 3 Level 6 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 3 ??◎ ??◎ Level 4 Level 7 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 4 ??◎ ??◎ Level 4 Level 7 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 5 ??◎ ??◎ Level 5 Level 7 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 6 ??◎ ??◎ Level 3 Level 6 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 7 ??◎ ??◎ Level 4 Level 7 ????◎ ????◎
Embodiment 8 ??◎ ??◎ Level 4 Level 7 ????◎ ????◎
Comparative example 1 ??◎ ??◎ Level 1 Level 3 ????◎ ????△
Comparative example 2 ??◎ ??◎ Level 1 Level 3 ????◎ ????△
The weft-knitted fabric product
Embodiment 9
Have knit on the double rib cylinder type knitting machine of 18 dial gauge-4 shuttle races fabric tube, employing is that the blended fiber gauze that 18% 30 dawn/12 filament high-contraction polyesters constitute is a veil with the filamentary lysotype conjugate fibres in 150 dawn/48 (mass colouration yarn) and boiling water shrinkage, and content of carbon black is that the filamentary polyester conjugate long filaments in 50 dawn/24 of 3 weight % (mass colouration yarn) are as back of the body yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by being that the polyethylene terephthalate of 3 weight % and the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate that is used as the solubilized component are formed as the content of carbon black that forms fibre fractionation, and what obtain after the solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the superfine fibre of 0.06 DENIER.Fabric tube is that the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. is handled with concentration under 98 ℃ condition, and napping makes the finished product fabric tube then.At this moment, no longer dye.The performance evaluation result of finished product fabric tube is as shown in table 2.
Embodiment 10
By preparation method among the embodiment 9 and condition knit fabric tube, under the condition of 120 ℃ (pH=4.5), dyeed 45 minutes on typical rapid dyeing machine with black disperse dye (concentration is 1%o.w.f.), wash then, last 160 ℃ of setting down.Utilize the performance evaluation result of finished product fabric tube of this method dyeing as shown in table 2.
Embodiment 11
Have knit on the double rib cylinder type knitting machine of 18 dial gauge-4 shuttle races fabric tube, in order to the filamentary lysotype conjugate fibres in 150 dawn/48 (mass colouration yarn) and boiling water shrinkage is that the combined filament yarn that 18% the filamentary high-contraction polyester in 30 dawn/12 constitutes is a veil, with the filamentary polyester conjugate long filament in 50 dawn/24 (non-mass colouration yarn) as carrying on the back yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by as forming containing polyethylene terephthalate that the yellow S-4G of soluble dye Papilion (Eastwell company product) is 5 weight % and forming as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component of fibre fractionation, and what obtain after the solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the formation fibre fractionation of 0.06 DENIER.This fabric tube is that the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. is handled with concentration under 98 ℃ condition, and napping makes the finished product fabric tube then.The performance evaluation result of finished product fabric tube is as shown in table 2.
Embodiment 12
Have knit on the double rib cylinder type knitting machine of 18 dial gauge-4 shuttle races fabric tube, with 150 dawn/48 filamentary lysotype conjugate fibre (mass colouration yarn) is veil, serves as back of the body yarn with the filamentary polyester conjugate long filament in 50 dawn/24 (non-mass colouration yarn).This lysotype conjugate fibre is by forming as polyethylene terephthalate that to form blue D7030 (BASF product) pigment content of fibre fractionation, Heliogen be 4 weight % with as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.06 DENIER.This fabric tube is that the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. is handled with concentration under 98 ℃ condition, and napping makes the finished product fabric tube then.The performance evaluation result of finished product fabric tube is as shown in table 2.
Comparative example 3
Have knit on the double rib cylinder type knitting machine of 18 dial gauge-4 shuttle races fabric tube, the air-jet method distortion gauze that constitutes with the filamentary lysotype conjugate fibre in 150 dawn/48 (non-mass colouration yarn) and boiling water shrinkage be 18% the filamentary high-contraction polyester yarn in 30 dawn/12 as veil, with the filamentary polyester conjugate long filament in 50 dawn/24 (non-mass colouration yarn) as carrying on the back yarn.This lysotype conjugate fibre is by forming as the polyethylene terephthalate that forms fibre fractionation with as the copolymerized type polyester that is soluble in alkali that contains 5 moles of % polyethylene glycol, 5 moles of %5-sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl esters, 5 moles of % isophthalic acids and 85 moles of % polyethylene terephthalate of solubilized component, and what obtain after its solubilized components dissolved is fallen is the fiber formation component of 0.06 DENIER.This fabric tube is under 98 ℃ condition, with concentration is that the NaOH solution of 1%o.w.s. is handled, napping then, use black disperse dye (concentration is 12.5%o.w.f.) again under the condition of 120 ℃ (pH=4.5), utilize typical rapid dyeing engine dyeing look 45 minutes, obtain the fabric tube finished fabric.The performance evaluation result of finished product fabric tube is as shown in table 2.
The capability and performance of table 2 weft-knitted fabric
Class The weft-knitted fabric capability and performance
Fastness to washing Fastness to light Blackness before the dyeing Dyeing back blackness
Embodiment 9 Level 5 Level 7 ????14.3 ????-
Embodiment 10 Horizontal 3-4 Level 6 ????14.3 ????13.4
Embodiment 11 Horizontal 4-5 Level 6 ????- ????-
Embodiment 12 Horizontal 4-5 Level 6 ????- ????-
Comparative example 3 Level 1 Level 3 ????- ????14.3
In the present invention, the performance of knitted fabric is estimated by following method.
Fastness to washing
Estimate with the KSK0430 method
Fastness to light
Estimate with the KSK0700 method
The soft surface degree
Feel check by 10 reviewers.Judge that as 8 people or more than 8 people fabric is soft, then be evaluated as (◎), when 5~7 people judge fabric sofetening, then be evaluated as medium (△), as 8 people or judge more than 8 people that the pliability of fabric is not enough, then fabric is evaluated as poor (*).
Repellency
Feel check by 10 reviewers.Judge that as 8 people or more than 8 people fabric has repellency, then be evaluated as (◎), have repellency when 5~7 people judge fabric, then be evaluated as medium (△), as 8 people or judge more than 8 people that the repellency of fabric is not enough, then fabric is evaluated as poor (*).
The warping technology performance
The evaluation of warping technology performance is by checking warping machines when speed of beaming is 500m/min and since the yarn defect influence cause warping machines per hour stop frequency realize.If per hour stop frequency is zero, just be evaluated as excellent (◎); If per hour stop frequency is 1 or 2 time, then be evaluated as medium (△); If per hour stop frequency is greater than 3 times, just be evaluated as poor (*).Warping machines per hour stop frequency is that total stop frequency during by warping machines warping 9kg yarn calculated divided by total warping time.
The knitting performance
The evaluation of knitting performance is by checking knitting machine when knitting speed is 1000m/min and since the yarn defect influence cause knitting machine per hour stop frequency realize.If per hour stop frequency is zero, just be evaluated as excellent (◎); If per hour stop frequency is 1 or 2 time, then be evaluated as medium (△); If per hour stop frequency is greater than 3 times, just be evaluated as poor (*).Knitting machine per hour stop frequency calculated one day stop frequency of knitting machine divided by 24 hours.
Blackness
Spectra Flash 640 instruments with Data Color Co. are estimated.
Boiling water shrinkage
The preparation fiber sample is measured its initial length (l 0), then sample is put into 100 ℃ boiling water and handled 15 minutes, again specimen length l under the load of 0.15g/d 1Calculate boiling water shrinkage according to following formula:
Figure A0280901300161
Industrial use
As mentioned above, the knitted fabric that obtains according to the present invention, owing to contain dope dyeing component in the used ultra fine yarn, so needn't dye, it has good fastness to washing and fastness to light. And knitted fabric is to carry out warping and knitting with the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre, becomes superfine fibre after the sea component dissolving of conjugate fibre, so its processing performance is good, feel and repellency are good. Knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for artificial leather and womenswear.

Claims (20)

1. the knitted fabric that has good fastness to washing and fastness to light uses the ultra fine yarn that contains the dope dyeing component that is selected from carbon black, pigment and dyestuff on its front and/or the back side, the fastness to washing of this knitted fabric is greater than 2~3 grades, and fastness to light is greater than 5 grades.
2. knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, dope dyeing component content is 0.1~15 weight % in ultra fine yarn.
3. knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, the monofilament fineness that it is characterized in that described ultra fine yarn is 0.001~0.3 DENIER.
4. knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that described dope dyeing component comprises black pigment or dyestuff.
5. knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that described knitted fabric is a warp-knitted fabric, and positive covering weave is that the ultra fine yarn that contains dope dyeing component is formed, and back side tissue is made up of high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn.
6. knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that described knitted fabric is a warp-knitted fabric, positive covering weave is that the ultra fine yarn that contains dope dyeing component is formed, back side tissue is made up of high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn, and intermediate structure is made up of the elastomeric polyurethane fiber yarn.
7. as claim 5 or 6 described knitted fabrics, it is characterized in that the high shrinkage yarn or the synthetic fiber yarn that are used as back side tissue contain the dope dyeing component that is selected from carbon black, pigment and dyestuff.
8. as claim 5 or 6 described knitted fabrics, it is characterized in that constituting the high shrinkage yarn of back side tissue or the monofilament fineness of synthetic fiber yarn is 1~5 DENIER.
9. as claim 5 or 6 described knitted fabrics, it is characterized in that, described ultra fine yarn, high shrinkage yarn and synthetic fiber yarn mainly are made up of polyester.
10. knitted fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that described knitted fabric is a fabric tube, and its front and/or back side tissue are made up of the blended fiber gauze of the ultra fine yarn that comprises dope dyeing component or ultra fine yarn and high shrinkage yarn.
11. the knitted fabric as in the claim 10 is characterized in that, described high shrinkage yarn comprises dope dyeing component.
12. the knitted fabric as in the claim 10 is characterized in that, described ultra fine yarn and high shrinkage yarn mainly are made up of polyester.
13., it is characterized in that the boiling water shrinkage of described high shrinkage yarn is 15% or bigger as the described knitted fabric of claim 5,6 or 10.
Has the method for good fastness to washing and fastness to light knitted fabric 14. make, use the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre as veil and/or back of the body yarn, contain fiber in this fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre and form component and solubilized component, this fiber forms in the component and contains the dope dyeing component that 0.1~15 weight % is selected from carbon black, pigment and dyestuff, and this solubilized component is easy insoluble polymer may.
15. manufacture method as claimed in claim 14 is characterized in that, being 3.0%o.w.f with concentration adds dyeing based on the dyestuff of Powdered dyestuff to knitted fabric.
16. manufacture method as claimed in claim 14 is characterized in that, the monofilament fineness of fiber formation component is 0.001~0.3 DENIER in the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre.
17. manufacture method as claimed in claim 14 is characterized in that, the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre is as veil, and high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn are used as back of the body yarn.
18. manufacture method as claimed in claim 14 is characterized in that, the fabric of island-in-sea type conjugate fibre is as veil, and high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn are used as back of the body yarn, and the elastic spandex fiber yarn is as middle yarn.
19., it is characterized in that the monofilament fineness of described back of the body yarn is 1~5 DENIER as claim 17 or 18 described manufacture methods.
20., it is characterized in that described veil and back of the body yarn mainly are made up of polyester as claim 17 or 18 described manufacture methods.
CNA028090136A 2001-04-26 2002-04-26 A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same Pending CN1505710A (en)

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KR10-2001-0022597A KR100375247B1 (en) 2001-04-26 2001-04-26 A circular knit having an excellent washfastness and lightness
KR2001/22595 2001-04-26
KR10-2001-0022595A KR100375245B1 (en) 2001-04-26 2001-04-26 A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same
KR1020010022594A KR100362031B1 (en) 2001-04-26 2001-04-26 A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same
KR2001/22597 2001-04-26
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