EP1381724A1 - A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same - Google Patents

A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same

Info

Publication number
EP1381724A1
EP1381724A1 EP02724800A EP02724800A EP1381724A1 EP 1381724 A1 EP1381724 A1 EP 1381724A1 EP 02724800 A EP02724800 A EP 02724800A EP 02724800 A EP02724800 A EP 02724800A EP 1381724 A1 EP1381724 A1 EP 1381724A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
component
denier
knit fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02724800A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1381724A4 (en
Inventor
Sang-Woo Jung
Jae-Hoon Jung
Joon-Young Yoon
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kolon Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Kolon Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from KR10-2001-0022595A external-priority patent/KR100375245B1/en
Priority claimed from KR1020010022594A external-priority patent/KR100362031B1/en
Priority claimed from KR10-2001-0022597A external-priority patent/KR100375247B1/en
Application filed by Kolon Industries Inc filed Critical Kolon Industries Inc
Publication of EP1381724A1 publication Critical patent/EP1381724A1/en
Publication of EP1381724A4 publication Critical patent/EP1381724A4/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0111—One hairy surface, e.g. napped or raised
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a knitted fabric having excellent wash
  • fine denier fiber of 0.001 denier or below.
  • nylon /polyester is applied to a warp knit, warping property, knitting property
  • polyester are mixed, the warp knit is difficult to dyestuffs and also its color fastness is low.
  • polyester as a sea component and regular polyester as an island component by
  • sea-island type conjugate fiber when producing a warp knit fabric or circular
  • the present invention provides a knitted fabric having excellent wash
  • the present invention provides a knitted fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness, which comprises a
  • ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed component selected from the group,
  • the knitted fabric has the wash fastness of more then 2-3 and the light
  • the present invention provides a process of preparing a
  • sea-island type conjugate fiber consisting of a fiber forming component, which
  • dope dyed component contains 0.1 -15 % by weight of dope dyed component selected from the group
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention includes both warp knit
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has a ultra fine yarn
  • fine yarn is formed by knitting a knitted fabric using a bicomponent dissolution
  • polyester containing a dope dyed component as
  • the knitted fabric In other words, to improve the processability, the knitted fabric
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber as a face yarn and/or back yarn
  • blended composition consisting of (i) copolymerized polyester formed by the
  • polyethyleneglycol having a number average molecular weight of more than
  • polyvinyl alcohol or polystylene or the like may be used as the easy soluble
  • the dope dyed component more than one component is
  • the carbon black is solely used, the ultra fine yarn (island component) has a
  • the dyestuffs include solvent dyestuffs (Eastwell Co., Ltd.)
  • the pigments include BASF Corporation products such as Heliogen Blue D 7030,
  • the dope dyed components include pigments of
  • the dope dyed component content is 0.1-15% by weight with respect to
  • wash fastness and light fastness is small, or if it is more than 15 % by weight
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention includes a warp knit fabric
  • the mono-filament fineness of the face weave yarn (ultra)
  • the softness can be increased but
  • the high shrinkage yarn and synthetic fiber yarn (hereinafter,
  • back yarn includes polyester filaments. To improve wash fastness and
  • the dope dyed component can be contained in 0.1-15 % by
  • the mono-filament fineness of the back yarn is 1 -5 denier.
  • the mono-filament fineness is less than 1 denier, it may be difficult to give
  • mono-filament denier is more than 5 denier, processability such as warping and
  • the high shrinkage yarn includes copolymerized polyester.
  • copolymer component bisphenol-A, polyethylene glycol, isophthalic
  • copolymer component of the present invention is not limited thereto.
  • intermediate yarn is used as the yarn of the intermediate weave, the fiber
  • intermediate yarn has a good elastic property, it increases the fiber density of
  • warp knit fabric and giving good elasticity and repulsiveness to the warp knit
  • the total denier of spandex is preferably 30-90 denier.
  • the face yarn content is preferably 40-87% by
  • the intermediate yarn If it is more than 87% by weight, the intermediate yarn
  • the softness of the warp knit fabric may be decreased. If it is under the
  • the shape stability and the drape property may be decreased.
  • the finished warp knit fabric is produced by raising, preheating,
  • the present invention may omit a dyeing process because the ultra fine
  • yarn contains the dope dyed component. To adjust the color of the warp
  • the warp knit fabric of the present invention has very excellent wash
  • the back yarn contain a black dope dyed component. More particularly, to
  • the additional dyeing is carried out mostly for the purpose of varying
  • additional dyeing is limited to 3.0% o.w.f. of a powdery dyestuffs is because, if
  • the amount of dyestuffs is more than the above value, the wash fastness and
  • the light fastness are sharply decreased.
  • the wash fastness and the light fastness are in inverse proportion to an amount of dyestuffs used.
  • the specific surface In case of a ultra-fine yarn, the specific surface
  • the warp knit fabric of the present invention has excellent properties
  • the warp knit fabric can exhibit excellent writing effect and
  • the warp knit fabric of the present invention can solve the
  • back yarn is a thick-denier yarn with a proper denier. Moreover, it can be
  • the back weave is formed of a high shrinkage yarn, the density of the ultra fine
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention also includes a weft knit
  • the air textured filament yarn is preferably more than 15% in order to improve
  • polyester filaments and the like can be used.
  • the dope dyed component can be contained in
  • the mono-filament denier of the thick-denier yarn is 0.5-5
  • the mono-filament denier is less than 0.5 denier, it may be
  • mono-filament denier is more than 5 denier, processability such as warping and
  • a sea-island type conjugate fiber consisting of a fiber forming
  • a dissolution component which is a easy soluble polymer, is used, or a
  • the circular knit fabric of the present invention contains the dope dyed
  • an additional dyeing can be performed.
  • the additional dyeing process a sufficiently deep color can be obtained even at a
  • thick-denier yarn which constitute the circular knit fabric of the present
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has an excellent
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
  • spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
  • polyester multi-filament (dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate
  • polyethleneglycol 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yam : back yarn is set to 55 % by
  • the produced warp knit fabric is
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
  • spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
  • polyester multi-filament non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • polyethylene terephthalate containing 3 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to
  • fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40
  • warp knit fabric The above warp knit fabric is dyed with a black disperse
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
  • spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
  • polyester multi-filament non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to
  • fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
  • spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn and a high shrinkage polyester yarn (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24
  • Blue D 7030 (products by BASF.), which is a pigment, as a fiber forming
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to
  • fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
  • polyester multi-filament (dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate containing 4 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber forming component and
  • polyethleneglycol 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 % by
  • the produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
  • polyester multi-filament non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • polyethylene terephthalate containing 3 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 %
  • the produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
  • the above warp knit fabric is dyed with a black
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
  • polyester multi-filament non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 %
  • the produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
  • polyester multi-filament non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • polyethylene glycol 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of
  • the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 % by
  • the produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber (non-dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn
  • polyester multi-filament non-dope dyed yam
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 % by weight.
  • warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and
  • the above warp knit fabric is dyed with a black disperse dyestuffs
  • a warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
  • a dissolution type conjugate fiber(non-dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn
  • a spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
  • the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
  • the produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by
  • a circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) of 150 denier/48 filaments
  • polyethylene terephthalate containing 3 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber
  • Example 9 conditions as in Example 9 is dyed with a black disperse dyestuffs (1.0% o.w.f.
  • a circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) of 150 denier/48 filaments
  • non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments is fed as the back yarn, the
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate
  • Papilion Yellow S-4G products by Eastwell Co., Ltd.
  • Papilion Yellow S-4G products by Eastwell Co., Ltd.
  • the knitted circular knit fabric is treated in a NaOH solution
  • a circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
  • non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments is fed as the back yarn
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate
  • polyester composed of 5 mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of
  • polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a fiber
  • the knitted circular knit fabric is treated in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 TJ and is raised, thus producing a finished circular
  • a circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber non-dope dyed yarn of 150 denier/48
  • non-dope dyed yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments is fed as the back yarn, the
  • dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate as a
  • polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a fiber
  • the knitted circular knit fabric is treated in a NaOH solution having a
  • the fabric was deficient in the repulsiveness, the fabric was evaluated to be
  • Warping processability is evaluated by checking the stop times/ hour of
  • the stop times/hour is naught, it is excellent( ⁇ ). If the stop times/hour is
  • Knitting processability is evaluated by checking the stop times/hour of
  • the stop times/hour is naught, it is excellent( ⁇ ). If the stop times/hour is
  • a sample fiber is prepared and the original length (&o) is measured. Then, the sample fiber is treated in boiling water of 100 ° C for 15 minutes.
  • boiling water shrinkage is calculated according to the following formula :
  • invention may not be dyed and has excellent wash fastness and light fastness
  • the knitted fabric is warped and knitted using a
  • present invention is useful for materials of artificial leathers or ladies' clothes.

Abstract

The present invention discloses a knitted fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same. More particularly, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed component selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs on the face and/or back and has a wash fastness of more than level 2-3 and a light fastness of more than level (5). In addition, in the process of the present invention, a sea-island type conjugate fiber is used in which a dope dyed component such as carbon black or the like is contained in a fiber forming component as a face yarn and/or back yarn. The knitted fabric of the present invention is used for materials of artificial leathers or ladies' clothes.

Description

A KNITTED FABRIC HAVING AN EXCELLENT WASH FASTNESS AND LIGHT
FASTNESS, AND A PROCESS OF PREPARING FOR THE SAME
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a knitted fabric having excellent wash
fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the knitted fabric.
If a fiber becomes fined, its bending strength becomes weakened.
Accordingly, since fabrics produced with ultra fine denier fiber have very soft
touch, researches in connection with producing such ultra fine denier fiber on a
commercial scale are developing very actively. Also, development of the
technology which is capable of producing synthetic yarn extremely finely leads
to great improvement of the value of the goods of sensitive materials for
clothes.
Description of Related Art
Generally, a process of preparing ultra fine denier fiber is divided into
three processes: a direct spinning process; a bicomponent division type
spinning process; and a bicomponent dissolution type spinning process. In
the direct spinning process, it is possible to prepare ultra fine denier fiber of
0.3 —0.5 denier. In the bicomponent division type spinning process, it is
possible to prepare ultra fine denier fiber of 0.2 denier. In the bicomponent dissolution type spinning process, it is possible to prepare ultra
fine denier fiber of 0.001 denier or below.
Producing goods with ultra fine denier fiber are developing in variety in
connection with textile applications. However, producing goods with ultra
fine denier fiber are not developing in connection with knitting applications,
particularly, warp knit fabric applications, due to the several drawbacks
generated in warping and subsequent processes.
In case that the ultra fine denier fiber of 0.3 —0.5 denier prepared by
means of the direct spinning process is applied to a warp knit, warping property
and knitting property are very poor since numerous filaments are scattered.
Furthermore, the specific surface area of yarn is increased to thus make raising
property and processability poor, and the warp knit thus prepared is
non-uniform in its raised fiber and is very inferior in appearance.
In case that the ultra fine denier fiber of 0.2 denier prepared by means
of the bicomponent division type conjugate spinning process consisting of
nylon /polyester is applied to a warp knit, warping property, knitting property
and raising property of the warp knit are very poor since the nylon is seperated
from the polyester by means of the tension and friction in warping and knitting
because the nylon and the polyester are incompatible with each other.
Furthermore, appearance of the prepared warp knit is very poor due to
non-uniformity of raised fibers. Moreover, since the nylon and the
polyester are mixed, the warp knit is difficult to dyestuffs and also its color fastness is low.
In case that a warp knit is prepared by the sea-island type conjugate
fiber of 0.001 -0.3 denier prepared by using alkali easy soluble copolymerized
polyester as a sea component and regular polyester as an island component by
means of the bicomponent dissolution type spinning process, warping property,
raising property and knitting property of the warp knit are good; however, the
wash fastness and light fastness of the warp knit are low due to poor dyeing
property which is characteristic of the polyester (island component).
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to prepare a knitted
fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness, which may omit a
dyeing process by knitting a knitted fabric using a sea-island type conjugate
fiber, which contains a dope dyed component as a fiber forming component, as
a face yarn and/or back yarn and then dissolving a sea component of the
sea-island type conjugate fiber when producing a warp knit fabric or circular
knit fabric.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a knitted fabric having excellent wash
fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same, which has
excellent processability such as warping and knitting processability.
To achieve the above object, the present invention provides a knitted fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness, which comprises a
ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed component selected from the group,
consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs on the face and/or back,
wherein the knitted fabric has the wash fastness of more then 2-3 and the light
fastness of more than level 5.
In addition, the present invention provides a process of preparing a
knitted fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness, wherein a
sea-island type conjugate fiber consisting of a fiber forming component, which
contains 0.1 -15 % by weight of dope dyed component selected from the group
consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs, and a dissolution
component, which is a easy soluble polymer, is used as face yarn and/or back
yarn.
The present invention will now be described in more detail.
The knitted fabric of the present invention includes both warp knit
fabric and weft knit fabric.
Firstly, the knitted fabric of the present invention has a ultra fine yarn
including a dope dyed component selected from the group consisting of carbon
black, pigments and dyestuffs on the face and/or back. The above ultra
fine yarn is formed by knitting a knitted fabric using a bicomponent dissolution
type conjugate fiber, which has polyester containing a dope dyed component as
a fiber forming component and easy soluble polymer as a dissolution
component, as a face yarn and/or back yarn, and then dissolving the dissolution component in the subsequent process.
In other words, to improve the processability, the knitted fabric
becomes ultra-fine after knitting and raising it using the bicomponent
dissolution type conjugate fiber as a face yarn and/or back yarn, and then
dissolving the dissolution component.
As the easy soluble polymer, copolymerized polyester with very
excellent alkali dissolubility is most preferably used. For example, the
blended composition consisting of (i) copolymerized polyester formed by the
copolymerization of an ester unit of ethylene terephthalic acid as a main
component, with an ester unit containing metal sulfonates and (ii) a
polyethyleneglycol having a number average molecular weight of more than
8,000 is used as the easy soluble polymer. In addition, water-easy soluble
polyvinyl alcohol or polystylene or the like may be used as the easy soluble
polymer. However, the polystylene is disadvantageous in that the solvent
used in dissolution causes environmental contamination.
Particularly, according to the present invention, when spinning the
sea-island type conjugate fiber, a dope dyed component is added in the fiber
forming component in order to improve wash fastness and light fastness of the
knitted fabric. As the dope dyed component, more than one component is
used from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs. If
the carbon black is solely used, the ultra fine yarn (island component) has a
black color. In case that the ultra fine yarn is desired to have other colors different from black, types of pigments or dyestuffs should be properly
selected.
For example, the dyestuffs include solvent dyestuffs (Eastwell Co., Ltd.)
such as Papilion Yellow S-4G, Papilion Red S-G, Papilion Blue S-GL, etc., and
the pigments include BASF Corporation products such as Heliogen Blue D 7030,
Paliogen Red L 3885, Paliotol Yellow D 1819 Heliogen, etc. By properly
mixing these pigments and dyestuffs of RGB colors, a desired color can be
obtained. Moreover, if the content of carbon black in the island
component is adjusted to be less than 5 % by weight, a knitted fabric with grey
color can be produced. The dope dyed components include pigments of
black color or dyestuffs of black color.
The dope dyed component content is 0.1-15% by weight with respect to
the weight of the fiber forming component (ultra fine yarn). If the dope
dyed component content is less than 0.1% by weight, the improvement effect
of wash fastness and light fastness is small, or if it is more than 15 % by weight,
the spinnability is decreased.
The knitted fabric of the present invention includes a warp knit fabric
which consists of a face weave made of a ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed
component and a back weave made of a high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber
yarn, or which may have an intermediate weave made of a spandex elastic yarn
between the face weave and the back weave.
Hereinafter, the warp knit fabric according to the present invention will be described in detail.
Preferably, the mono-filament fineness of the face weave yarn (ultra
fine yarn) is 0.001 -0.3 denier. If the mono-filament fineness is more. than
0.3 denier, the raising property and the durability of raised fiber are improved
but the feeling of touch may become hard and a wirting effect may be
decreased. If it is less than 0.001 denier, the softness can be increased but
raised fiber easily fall out or are tangled due to friction, thus making the
appearance poor.
Preferably, the high shrinkage yarn and synthetic fiber yarn (hereinafter,
"back yarn") includes polyester filaments. To improve wash fastness and
light fastness, the dope dyed component can be contained in 0.1-15 % by
weight of the back yarn.
Preferably, the mono-filament fineness of the back yarn is 1 -5 denier.
If the mono-filament fineness is less than 1 denier, it may be difficult to give
proper repulsiveness to the warp knit fabric (finished fabric). If the
mono-filament denier is more than 5 denier, processability such as warping and
knitting processability can be worse, or the repulsiveness of the warp knit
fabric becomes too large, for thereby making it difficult to exhibit softness of
the face.
Preferably, the high shrinkage yarn includes copolymerized polyester.
As the copolymer component, bisphenol-A, polyethylene glycol, isophthalic
acid and the like can be used. However, the copolymer component of the present invention is not limited thereto.
Meanwhile, in a case that the spandex elastic yarn (hereinafter,
"intermediate yarn") is used as the yarn of the intermediate weave, the fiber
density of the face weave can be much increased by the shrinkage of the
intermediate weave. Since the spandex elastic yarn, which is the
intermediate yarn, has a good elastic property, it increases the fiber density of
the face weave of a finally finished fabric, thus improving the softness of the
warp knit fabric and giving good elasticity and repulsiveness to the warp knit
fabric. The total denier of spandex is preferably 30-90 denier.
In a knitting operation, the face yarn content is preferably 40-87% by
weight with respect to the total weight of a finished warp knit fabric. If it
is less than 40% by weight, there is the risk of the warp knit fabric's softness
being poor. If it is more than 87% by weight, the intermediate yarn
content and the back yarn content become relatively low, thus drapery and
mechanical physical properties become worse.
Meanwhile, the intermediate yarn content and the back yarn content
are preferably 0-20% and 13-60% respectively by weight with respect to the
total weight of the finished warp knit fabric. If it is over the above range,
the softness of the warp knit fabric may be decreased. If it is under the
above range, the shape stability and the drape property may be decreased.
The finished warp knit fabric is produced by raising, preheating,
weight-reducing (removal of a dissolution component), buffing and finally heating the thusly knit fabric.
The present invention may omit a dyeing process because the ultra fine
yarn contains the dope dyed component. To adjust the color of the warp
knit fabric, however, an additional dyeing process may be carried out. In
case of the additional dyeing process, the concentration of dyestuffs used is
preferably less than 3% o.w.f. The density of the finished warp knit fabric
is preferably 40-60 loop/inch.
The warp knit fabric of the present invention has very excellent wash
fastness and light fastness because the face yarn or both of the face yarn and
the back yarn contain a black dope dyed component. More particularly, to
get a desired color, no dyeing process is required, or, if any, only an additional
dyeing process using 3.0% o.w.f of dyestuffs (based on a powdery dyestuffs) is
required. Of course, even if the additional dyeing using more than 3.0
o.w.f of dyestuffs is required, this will be achieved only by increasing the dope
dyed component content in the island component.
The additional dyeing is carried out mostly for the purpose of varying
the color of the warp knit fabric into another color using a given dope dyed
fiber as a base. The reason why the amount of dyestuffs used in the
additional dyeing is limited to 3.0% o.w.f. of a powdery dyestuffs is because, if
the amount of dyestuffs is more than the above value, the wash fastness and
the light fastness are sharply decreased.
The wash fastness and the light fastness are in inverse proportion to an amount of dyestuffs used. In case of a ultra-fine yarn, the specific surface
area is much higher than that of a general yarn, so its fastness is inevitably low.
Nevertheless, in case of a liquid dyestuffs whose concentration is 50% or so,
which is lower than that of a powdery dyestuffs, up to 6.0% o.w.f. can be used.
Therefore, the range of fastness of the dope dyed fiber to be achieved
by the present invention is more than level 2-3 in wash fastness and more than
level 5.0 in light fastness.
In addition, the warp knit fabric of the present invention has excellent
processability such as warping and knitting properties because the face yarn is
a bicomponent dissolution type yarn. At the same time, in a subsequent
process, since the dissolution component is dissolved to make the face yarn
ultra fine, the warp knit fabric can exhibit excellent writing effect and
softness.
Meanwhile, the warp knit fabric of the present invention can solve the
problem that the feeling of touch becomes too soft when producing a warp knit
fabric using a conventional bicomponent dissolution type yarn, because the
back yarn is a thick-denier yarn with a proper denier. Moreover, it can
exhibit excellent drapery. Particularly, in case that the intermediate
weave is formed of a spandex elastic yarn with good elastic processability and
the back weave is formed of a high shrinkage yarn, the density of the ultra fine
yarn of the face weave becomes much higher and thereby the elongation
recovery and softness of the warp knit fabric in the wale direction and course direction become more excellent.
The knitted fabric of the present invention also includes a weft knit
fabric, which is composed of a ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed component
or mixed filament yarn of the ultra fine yarn and a high shrinkage yarn at the
face and/or back.
Hereinafter, the weft knit fabric of the present invention will be
described in detail.
The boiling water shrinkage of a high shrinkage yarn used in producing
the air textured filament yarn is preferably more than 15% in order to improve
the softness of a final product. As a specific example of the high shrinkage
yarn, polyester filaments and the like can be used.
In the case that the ultra fine yarn or a mixed filament yarn thereof is
used for any one of the face and back, it is preferable to use a thick-denier yarn
of polyester filaments as the yarn of the other side. To improve wash
fastness and light fastness, the dope dyed component can be contained in
0.1 -15% by weight of thick-denier yarn.
Preferably, the mono-filament denier of the thick-denier yarn is 0.5-5
denier. If the mono-filament denier is less than 0.5 denier, it may be
difficult to give proper repulsiveness to the circular knit fabric. If the
mono-filament denier is more than 5 denier, processability such as warping and
knitting processability can be worse, or the repulsiveness of the weft knit
fabric becomes too large, for thereby making it difficult to exhibit softness of the face.
The process of preparing the weft knit fabric according to the present
invention will be described more specifically. Firstly, as the face yarn and
the back yarn, a sea-island type conjugate fiber consisting of a fiber forming
component, which contains 0.1-15 % by weight of dope dyed component
selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs,
and a dissolution component, which is a easy soluble polymer, is used, or a
mixed filament yarn of the sea-island type conjugate fiber and a high shr nkage
yarn is used, thus knitting the weft knit fabric in a circular knitting machine.
Meanwhile, it is also possible to knit the circular knit fabric by using the
sea-island type conjugate fiber or the mixed filament yarn of the sea-island
type conjugate fiber and the high shrinkage yarn as either one of the face yarn
or back yarn and using a polyester thick-denier yarn with mono-filament
fineness of 0.5-5 denier as the yarn of the other side.
Next, by the alkali weight reduction of the resultant circular knit fabric,
the dissolution component (sea component) in the sea-island type conjugate
fiber is dissolved to thus achieve a ultra-fine filament.
The circular knit fabric of the present invention contains the dope dyed
component in the ultra-fine filament, so the dyeing process can be omitted.
However, in order to adjust the color of the circular knit fabric, an additional
dyeing can be performed. However, in order to adjust the color of the
ultra-fine denier fabric, an additional dyeing can be performed. In the additional dyeing process, a sufficiently deep color can be obtained even at a
concentration of dyestuffs less than 5%, and thusly the amount of the dyestuffs
to be used can be reduced.
The ultra-fine filament or the mixture yarn of ultra-fine yarn and
thick-denier yarn, which constitute the circular knit fabric of the present
invention, contain a black dope dyed component, and thus their wash fastness
and light fastness are very excellent. More particularly, the wash fastness
is more than level 2-3, and the light fastness is more than level 5.
Furthermore, the knitted fabric of the present invention has an excellent
processability since it is knitted in the sea-island type conjugate fiber state,
and at the same time it can achieve a good softness since yarn in the knitted
fabric becomes ultra-fine as the dissolution component is dissolved in the
subsequent process.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS
The present invention is now understood more specifically by
comparison between examples of the present invention and comparative
examples. However, the present invention is not limited to such
examples.
- Production of Warp Knit Fabric - Example 1
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
and a polyester multi-filament (dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
containing 3 % by weight of carbon black is used as the back yarn, the
dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate
containing 4 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber forming component and
alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5 mole % of
polyethleneglycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of
isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution
component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07 after
dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit fabric,
the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yam : back yarn is set to 55 % by
weight : 10 % by weight : 35 % by weight. The produced warp knit fabric is
raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40 minutes
in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C , buffed and finally
set at 180°C , thus producing a finished warp knit fabric. At this time, no
dyeing is preformed. The results of evaluation of the quality processability
of the finished warp knit fabric are indicated in Table 1.
Example 2
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
and a polyester multi-filament (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
is used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate containing 3 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber
forming component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed
of 5 mole % of polyethleneglycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5
mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a
dissolution component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07
after dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit
fabric, the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to
55 % by weight : 10 % by weight : 35 % by weight. The produced warp knit
fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40
minutes in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 2% o.w.s and a
temperature of 98 °C , buffed and finally set at 180°C, thus producing a finished
warp knit fabric. The above warp knit fabric is dyed with a black disperse
dyestuffs (2% o.w.f. concentration) by a typical rapid dyeing machine for 45
minutes at 120°C (pH=4.5), is washed and then is finally set at 160°C . The
results of evaluation of the quality properties of the finished warp knit fabric
thus dyed are indicated in Table 1.
Example 3
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
and a polyester multi-filament (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
is used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate containing 5 % by weight of Papilion Yellow S-4G
(products by Eastwell Co., Ltd.), which is a solvent dyestuffs, as a fiber forming
component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5
mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5
mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a
dissolution component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07
after dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit
fabric, the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to
55 % by weight : 10 % by weight : 35 % by weight. The produced warp knit,
fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40
minutes in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C, buffed and
finally set at 180°C, thus producing a finished warp knit fabric. The results
of evaluation of the quality properties of the finished warp knit fabric are
indicated in Table 1.
Example 4
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn, a
spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/ 5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn and a high shrinkage polyester yarn (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24
filaments is used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber
consisting of polyethylene terephthalate containing 4 % by weight of Heliogen
Blue D 7030 (products by BASF.), which is a pigment, as a fiber forming
component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5
mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5
mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a
dissolution component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07
after dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit
fabric, the weight ratio of face yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to
55 % by weight : 10 % by weight : 35 % by weight. The produced warp knit
fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40
minutes in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C, buffed and
finally set at 180°C , thus producing a finished warp knit fabric. The results
of evaluation of the quality properties of the finished warp knit fabric are
indicated in Table 1.
Example 5
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
a polyester multi-filament (dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
containing 3 % by weight of carbon black is used as the back yarn, the
dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate containing 4 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber forming component and
alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5 mole % of
polyethleneglycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of
isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution
component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07 after
dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit fabric,
the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 % by
weight. The produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
then preset, and weight-reduced for 40 minutes in a NaOH solution having a
concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C, buffed and finally set at 180 °C, thus producing
a finished warp knit fabric. At this time, no dyeing process is performed.
The results of evaluation of the quality properties of the finished warp knit
fabric are indicated in Table 1.
Example 6
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
a polyester multi-filament (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments is
used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate containing 3 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber
forming component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed
of 5 mole % of polyethleneglycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5
mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07
after dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit
fabric, the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 %
by weight. The produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
then preset, and weight-reduced for 40 minutes in a NaOH solution having a
concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C , buffed and finally set at 180 °C , thus producing
a finished warp knit fabric. The above warp knit fabric is dyed with a black
disperse dyestuffs (2% o.w.f. concentration) by a typical rapid dyeing machine
for 45 minutes at 120°C (pH=4.5), is washed and then is finally set at 160°.
The results of evaluation of the quality properties of the finished warp knit
fabric thus dyed are indicated in Table 1.
Example 7
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
a polyester multi-filament (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments is
used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate containing 5 % by weight of Papilion Yellow S-4G
(products by Eastwell Co., Ltd.), which is a solvent dyestuffs, as a fiber forming
component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5
mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5
mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a
dissolution component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07 after dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit
fabric, the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 %
by weight. The produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
then preset, and weight-reduced for 40 minutes in a NaOH solution having a
concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C, buffed and finally set at 180°C, thus producing
a finished warp knit fabric. The results of evaluation of the quality
properties of the finished warp knit fabric are indicated in Table 1.
Example 8
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn and
a polyester multi-filament (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments is
used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate containing 4 % by weight of Heliogen Blue D 7030
(products by BASF.), which is a pigment, as a fiber forming component and
alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5 mole % of
polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of
isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution
component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.07 after
dissolving the dissolution component. At this time, in the warp knit fabric,
the weight ratio of face yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 % by
weight. The produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%,
then preset, and weight-reduced for 40 minutes in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 T , buffed and finally set at 180 TJ, thus producing
a finished warp knit fabric. The results of evaluation of the quality
properties of the finished warp knit fabric are indicated in Table 1.
Comparative Example 1
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber (non-dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn
and a polyester multi-filament (non-dope dyed yam) of 50 denier/24 filaments
is used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber forming component and alkali easy
soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5 mole % of polyethleneglycol, 5
mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of isophthalic acid and 85
mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a
fiber forming component denier of 0.07 after dissolving the dissolution
component. At this time, in the warp knit fabric, the weight ratio of face
yarn : back yarn is set to 45 % by weight : 55 % by weight. The produced
warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by 50%, then preset, and
weight-reduced for 40 minutes in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1%
o.w.s 98 °C, buffed and finally set at 180 J, thus producing a finished warp knit
fabric. The above warp knit fabric is dyed with a black disperse dyestuffs
(12.5% o.w.f. concentration) by a typical rapid dyeing machine for 45 minutes
at 120°C (pH=4.5). The results of evaluation of the quality properties of
the finished warp knit fabric are indicated in Table 1. Comparative Example 2
A warp knit fabric with a density of 23 loops/cm is produced, wherein
a dissolution type conjugate fiber(non-dope dyed yarn) is used as the face yarn,
a spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier/5 filaments is used as the intermediate yarn
and a polyester multi-filament(non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments
is used as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber forming component and alkali easy
soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5 mole % of polyethleneglycol, 5
mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of isophthalic acid and 85
mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a
fiber forming component denier of 0.07 after dissolving the dissolution
component. At this time, in the warp knit fabric, the weight ratio of face
yarn : intermediate yarn : back yarn is set to 55 % by weight : 10 % by weigh :
35 % by weight. The produced warp knit fabric is raised to be shrunken by
50%, then preset, and weight-reduced for 40 minutes in a NaOH solution having
a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 TJ, buffed and finally set at 180°C , thus
producing a finished warp knit fabric. The above warp knit fabric is dyed
with a black disperse dyestuffs (12.5% o.w.f. concentration) by a typical rapid
dyeing machine for 45 minutes at 120°C (pH=4.5). The results of evaluation
of the quality properties of the finished warp knit fabric are indicated in Table
1. [Table 1] Processability and Warp Knit Fabric Properties
- Production of Weft Knit Fabric -
Example 9
A circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
with 18 dial gauges-4 races, wherein a mixed filament yarn made of a
dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) of 150 denier/48 filaments
and a high shrinkage polyester yarn of 30 denier/ 12 filaments having a boiling
water shrinkage rate of 18% is fed as the face yarn and a polyester filament
(dope dyed yam) of 50 denier/24 filaments containing 3 % by weight of carbon
black is fed as the back yarn, the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of
polyethylene terephthalate containing 3 % by weight of carbon black as a fiber
forming component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester composed
of 5 mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5
mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a fiber forming component denier of 0.06
after dissolving the dissolution component. The knitted circular knit fabric
is treated in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C and is
raised, thus producing a finished circular knit fabric. At this time, no
dyeing process is performed. The results of evaluation of the quality
propeties of the finished circular knit fabric are indicated in Table 2.
Example 10
The finished circular knit fabric prepared in the same process and
conditions as in Example 9 is dyed with a black disperse dyestuffs (1.0% o.w.f.
concentration) by a typical rapid dyeing machine for 45 minutes at 120°C
(pH=4.5), is washed and then is finally set at 160°C . The results of
evaluation of the quality processability of the finished circular knit fabric thus
dyed are indicated in Table 2.
Example 11
A circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
with 18 dial gauges-4 races, wherein a mixed filament yarn made of a
dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope dyed yarn) of 150 denier/48 filaments
and a high shrinkage polyester yarn of 30 denier/12 filaments having a boiling
water shrinkage of 18% is fed as the face yarn and a polyester filament
(non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments is fed as the back yarn, the
dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate
containing 5 % by weight of Papilion Yellow S-4G (products by Eastwell Co., Ltd.), which is a solvent dyestuffs, as a fiber forming component and alkali easy
soluble copolymerized polyester composed of 5 mole % of polyethylene glycol,
5 mole % of dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of isophthalic acid and 85
mole % of polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a
fiber forming component denier of 0.06 after dissolving the dissolution
component. The knitted circular knit fabric is treated in a NaOH solution
having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 °C and is raised, thus producing a finished
circular knit fabric. The results of evaluation of the quality properties of
the finished circular knit fabric are indicated in Table 2.
Example 12
A circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
with 18 dial gauges-4 races, wherein a dissolution type conjugate fiber (dope
dyed yarn) of 150 denier/48 filaments is fed as the face yam and a polyester
filament (non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments is fed as the back yarn,
the dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate
containing 4 % by weight of Heliogen Blue D 7030 (products by BASF.), which is
a pigment, as a fiber forming component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized
polyester composed of 5 mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of
dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of
polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a fiber
forming component denier of 0.06 after dissolving the dissolution component.
The knitted circular knit fabric is treated in a NaOH solution having a concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 TJ and is raised, thus producing a finished circular
knit fabric. " The results of evaluation of the quality properties of the
finished circular knit fabric are indicated in Table 2.
Comparative Example 3
A circular knit fabric is knitted on an interlock circular knitting machine
with 18 dial gauges-4 races, wherein an air textured filament yarn made of a
dissolution type conjugate fiber (non-dope dyed yarn) of 150 denier/48
filaments and a high shrinkage polyester yarn of 30 denier/12 filaments having
a boiling water shrinkage of 18% is fed as the face yam and a polyester filament
(non-dope dyed yarn) of 50 denier/24 filaments is fed as the back yarn, the
dissolution type conjugate fiber consisting of polyethylene terephthalate as a
fiber forming component and alkali easy soluble copolymerized polyester
composed of 5 mole % of polyethylene glycol, 5 mole % of
dimethyl-5-sulfoisothphalate, 5 mole % of isophthalic acid and 85 mole % of
polyethylene terephthalate as a dissolution component, and having a fiber
forming component denier of 0.06 after dissolving the dissolution component.
The knitted circular knit fabric is treated in a NaOH solution having a
concentration of 1% o.w.s 98 TJ , is raised and then is dyed with a black disperse
dyestuffs (12.5% o.w.f. concentration) by a typical rapid dyeing machine for 45
minutes at 120TJ (pH=4.5), thus producing a finished circular knit fabric.
The results of evaluation of the quality properties of the finished circular knit
fabric are indicated in Table 2. [Table 2] Quality Properties of weft Knit Fabric
In the present invention, the quality properites of knitted fabrics were
evaluated by the following methods.
Wash Fastness
This was evaluated by the KS K 0430 A1 method.
Light Fastness
This was evaluated by the KS K 0700 method.
Surface Softness
An organoleptic test was carried out by 10 panellers. When 8
members or more judged that the sample was soft, the fabric was evaluated to
be good (©), when 5 to 7 members judged as above, the fabric was evaluated
to be average (Δ), and when 8 members or more judged that the fabric was
deficient in the softness, the fabric was evaluated to be poor (x).
Repulsiveness
An organoleptic test was carried out by 10 panellers. When 8
members or more judged that the sample has repulsiveness, the fabric was
evaluated to be good (©), when 5 to 7 members judged as above, the fabric was evaluated to be average (Δ), and when 8 members or more judged that
the fabric was deficient in the repulsiveness, the fabric was evaluated to be
poor (x).
Warping processability
Warping processability is evaluated by checking the stop times/ hour of
warping machine due to yarn defect at a warping speed of 500m/min. if
the stop times/hour is naught, it is excellent(©). If the stop times/hour is
one or two, it is ordinary(Δ). If the stop times/hour is more than 3 times,
it is poor(x). The stop times/ hour of warping machine is calculated by
dividing the total stop times of warping machine in warping the yarn of 9kg into
total warping time.
Knitting processability
Knitting processability is evaluated by checking the stop times/hour of
knitting machine due to yarn defect at knitting speed of 100Qm/min. If
the stop times/hour is naught, it is excellent(©). If the stop times/hour is
one or two, it is ordinary(Δ). If the stop times/hour is more than 3 times,
it is poor(x). The stop times/hour of knitting machine is calculated by
dividing the total stop times of knitting machine in a day into 24 hour.
Blackness (L value)
This was evaluated by using Spectra Flash 600 of Data Color Company.
Boiling Water Shrinkage (%)
A sample fiber is prepared and the original length (&o) is measured. Then, the sample fiber is treated in boiling water of 100°C for 15 minutes.
Then, the sample length (£ι) is measured under a load of 0.15 g/d. The
boiling water shrinkage is calculated according to the following formula :
£ - £ Boiling Water Shrinkage(%)= X 100
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
As described above, the knitted fabric according to the present
invention may not be dyed and has excellent wash fastness and light fastness
since the ultra fine yarn constituting the knitted fabric contains the dope dyed
component. Furthermore, the knitted fabric is warped and knitted using a
sea-island type conjugate fiber, the processability is good and the touch and
repulsiveness are excellent because the knitted fabric becomes ultra-fine after
dissolving the sea component. As the result, the knitted fabric of the
present invention is useful for materials of artificial leathers or ladies' clothes.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
1. A knitted fabric having excellent wash fastness and light fastness,
comprising a ultra fine yarn including a dope dyed component selected from
the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and dyestuffs on the face
and/or back, wherein the knitted fabric has the wash fastness of more than
level 2-3 and the light fastness of more than level 5.
2. The knitted fabric of claim 1 , wherein the dope dyed component
content in the ultra fine yarn is 0.1-15% by weight.
3. The knitted fabric of claim 1 , wherein the mono-filament fineness of
the ultra fine yarn is 0.001 -0.3 denier.
4. The knitted fabric of claim 1 , wherein the dope dyed component
includes pigments of black color or dyestuffs of black color.
5. The knitted fabric of claim 1 , wherein the knitted fabric is a warp knit
fabric which consists of a face weave made of a ultra fine yarn including a dope
dyed component and a back weave made of a high shrinkage yarn or synthetic
fiber yarn.
6. The knitted fabric of claim 1 , wherein the knitted fabric is a warp knit
fabric which consists of a face weave made of a ultra fine yarn including a dope
dyed component, a back weave made of a high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber
yarn, and an intermediate weave made of a spandex elastic yarn.
7. The knitted fabric of claim 5 or 6, wherein the high shrinkage yarn or
synthetic fiber yam constituting the back weave contains a dope dyed
component selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and
dyestuffs.
8. The knitted fabric of claim 5 or 6, wherein the mono-filament
fineness of the high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn constituting the back
weave is 1 -5 denier.
9. The knitted fabric of claim 5 or 6, wherein the ultra fine yarn,
shrinkage yarn and synthetic fiber yarn are mainly composed of polyester.
10. The knitted fabric of claim 1 , wherein the knitted fabric is a circular
knit fabric whose face weave and/or back weave are made of a ultra fine yarn
including a dope dyed component or a mixed filament yarn of the ultra fine
yarn and a high shrinkage yarn.
11. The knitted fabric of claim 10, wherein the high shrinkage yarn
includes the dope dyed component.
12. The knitted fabric of claim 10, wherein the ultra fine yarn and the
high shrinkage yarn are mainly composed of polyester.
13. The knitted fabric of claim 5, 6 or 10, wherein the boiling water
shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage yarn is 15% or more.
14. A process of preparing a knitted fabric having excellent wash
fastness and light fastness, wherein a sea-island type conjugate fiber consisting
of a fiber forming component, which contains a dope dyed component 0.1 -15 %
by weight selected from the group consisting of carbon black, pigments and
dyestuffs, and a dissolution component, which is a easy soluble polymer, is
used as face yarn and /or back yarn.
15. The process of claim 14, wherein the knitted fabric is additionally
dyed with a dyestuffs having a concentration of 3.0% o.w.f. (based on powdery
dyestuffs).
16. The process of claim 14, wherein the mono-filament denier of the
fiber forming component in the sea-island type conjugate fiber is 0.001 -0.3 denier.
17. The process of claim 14, wherein the sea-island type conjugate fiber
is used as the face yarn and a high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn is used
as the back yarn.
18. The process of claim 14, wherein the sea-island type conjugate fiber
is used as the face yarn, a high shrinkage yarn or synthetic fiber yarn is used as
the back yarn and a spandex elastic yarn is used as an intermediate yarn.
19. The process of claim 17 or 18, wherein the mono-filament fineness
of the back yarn is 1 -5 denier.
20. The process of claim 17 or 18, wherein the face yarn and back yarn is
mainly composed of polyester.
EP02724800A 2001-04-26 2002-04-26 A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same Withdrawn EP1381724A4 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (7)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR10-2001-0022595A KR100375245B1 (en) 2001-04-26 2001-04-26 A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same
KR2001022597 2001-04-26
KR2001022595 2001-04-26
KR2001022594 2001-04-26
KR1020010022594A KR100362031B1 (en) 2001-04-26 2001-04-26 A warp knitting fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing the same
KR10-2001-0022597A KR100375247B1 (en) 2001-04-26 2001-04-26 A circular knit having an excellent washfastness and lightness
PCT/KR2002/000776 WO2002088446A1 (en) 2001-04-26 2002-04-26 A knitted fabric having an excellent wash fastness and light fastness, and a process of preparing for the same

Publications (2)

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EP1381724A1 true EP1381724A1 (en) 2004-01-21
EP1381724A4 EP1381724A4 (en) 2007-05-09

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EP (1) EP1381724A4 (en)
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WO (1) WO2002088446A1 (en)

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US20060046055A1 (en) * 2004-08-30 2006-03-02 Nan Ya Plastics Corporation Superfine fiber containing grey dope dyed component and the fabric made of the same
WO2007074833A1 (en) * 2005-12-26 2007-07-05 Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Fabric composed of regions different in stretchability and process for production thereof
KR101028577B1 (en) * 2008-12-11 2011-04-12 웅진케미칼 주식회사 Fabric for screen including dope dyed fiber
ES2431539T3 (en) * 2011-06-07 2013-11-26 Gessner Ag Textile substrate from a plurality of different disposable and / or recyclable materials, use of a textile substrate of this type and process for processing a textile substrate of this type
US11098419B2 (en) 2012-04-04 2021-08-24 Argaman Technologies Ltd. Multi-component combination yarn system for moisture management in textiles and system for producing same
CN105506851A (en) * 2014-09-24 2016-04-20 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 Low-elasticity warp-knitted fabric and application thereof
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EP1381724A4 (en) 2007-05-09
US20040172984A1 (en) 2004-09-09
CN1505710A (en) 2004-06-16
WO2002088446A1 (en) 2002-11-07

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