KR100614625B1 - A suede-like warp knit with excellent appearance and touch, and a process of preparing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

Suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a surface texture of single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and is composed of polyester multifilament or spandex elastic yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier, and the surface of the poly It is characterized in that the piles of the ester ultra-fine yarns are napped, and the water-soluble polyurethane resin is impregnated in the suede warp knitted fabric. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier as a surface tissue yarn, and a polyester multifilament or a spandex elastic yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier is a back surface tissue. After each of the warp knitted paper in a 2-bar warp knitting machine using a yarn, and then shearing and heat-setting the primary knitting to shrink more than 35% of the warp knit dough in the width direction, and then treated with an aqueous alkali solution After eluting (reducing) the elution component in the fiber, the light weight knitted fabrics were subsequently impregnated with water-soluble polyurethane resin under heat treatment conditions, dried and dyed to shrink the light knitted fabric by 40% or more in the width direction, and then The dyed warp knitted fabric is characterized by sanding or brushing after the second brushing.

Warp knit, suede, microfiber, resilience, water-soluble polyurethane resin, feel, appearance

Description

Suede-like warp knit with excellent appearance and touch, and a process of preparing the same}

The present invention relates to a suede-like warp knit excellent in appearance and feel and a method of manufacturing the same.

More specifically, the present invention is very dense and soft, yet excellent in the drape (Drape) properties, the surface of the micro-fine fibers in the hair (立 毛) is excellent in touch, excellent elasticity and resilience is good for living materials such as sofas The present invention relates to suede warp knits useful for women's clothing and the like and methods for manufacturing the same.

Suede-like warp knits are warp knits in which the fibers pile on the surface are hair-like and have the same effect as natural leather.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.                         

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the manufactured suede warp knitted fabric also has poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to suede warp knitted fabrics using a composite fiber having a level of 0.05 denier or less after dissolution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the elution component is eluted in the post-processing step for ultra-miniaturization. As a result, the tissue density of the fabric becomes loose, resulting in a poor appearance of the fabric.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector. However, in the warp knitting sector, as described above, the commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during normal and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a suede warp knitted paper with good canon and knitability, which is excellent in appearance, feel, elasticity and resilience and suitable for living materials such as women's clothing materials and sofas.

The present invention has a short length of the microfiber (hereinafter referred to as a "file"), which is excellent in touch and writing effect, but also prevents the defects of the warp letter from being exposed to the outside due to the high density of the file. Rather, it is impregnated with a water-soluble polyurethane resin to provide a suede warp knit that is similar in appearance and touch to natural suede. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method for producing the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

Suede yarn warp knitted fabric of the present invention for achieving the above problems, the surface structure is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, the back surface is a polyester multifilament or spandex elastic yarn having a single denier fineness 1-3 denier It is composed of, the surface of the polyester ultra-fine yarn (Pile) is characterized in that the hair and the water-soluble polyurethane resin is impregnated in the suede warp knitted paper.

In addition, the method of manufacturing the suede warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, the composite fiber composed of the fiber-forming component and the eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier as a surface tissue yarn, poly Shearing the warp knitted paper in a 2-bar warp knitting machine using ester multifilament or spandex elastic yarn as backing yarn, respectively, and then shearing after primary raising to shrink the warp knit fabric by 35% or more in the width direction. And heat-fixed, and then the heat-fixed warp knitted fabric was treated with an aqueous alkali solution to elute (reduce) the eluted component in the composite fiber, and then the impregnated water-soluble polyurethane resin was impregnated with the warp knitted fabric under the heat treatment conditions. After drying and dyeing, shrink the warp knitted paper by 40% or more in the width direction, and then continue to sanding or brushing the second dyed warp knitted after brushing It shall be.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors pay attention to the fact that the combination of the selection of materials to be applied in tissue design and post-processing methods is very important in order to manufacture suede warp knitted paper which is very soft and has excellent appearance, feel and resilience at the same time as natural suede. To complete.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier at the time of knitting as a yarn of the surface tissue. When the composite fiber is eluted by removal of alkali after removal, only the fiber-forming component remains, and their single yarn fineness is 0.001-0.05 denier.

If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.05 denier, the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed.If the surface yarn is less than 0.001 denier, the touch is soft but the hairs are easily dropped by friction. Or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.                     

Specifically, if the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn, that is, the single yarn fineness of the piled microfibers (pile) exceeds 0.05 denier, the hair density of the pile decreases, and the touch and lighting effects are not only deteriorated. The defects of the back are easily exposed to the outside, and the appearance of the warp knitted paper is also reduced. If the length of the pile is formed to a level of 0.5 mm or more in order to prevent the appearance of warp knitted paper, the tactile and lighting effects become worse. Therefore, it is preferable that the pile length set on the surface of the suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is 0.1-0.3 mm.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20-40% by weight.

In order to improve the feel and appearance of warp knitted paper, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. To this end, in the present invention, the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn is made fine as described above. In addition, after the ultra-fine process, the water-soluble polyurethane resin is impregnated in the warp knitted paper to produce a suede warp knit having excellent resilience and similar to natural leather.

The impregnation amount of the water-soluble polyurethane resin is preferably 5-20% by weight based on the total weight of the suede warp knitted fabric as the final product. If the impregnation amount is less than 5% by weight, the resilience of the warp knitted paper may not be sufficiently expressed. If the impregnation amount exceeds 20% by weight, the touch of the warp knit may be degraded.

In addition, in this invention, a general polyester multifilament or spandex elastic yarn is used as a yarn for back surface tissues. Among them, when spandex elastic yarn is used, the fiber density of the surface tissue can be further increased by their shrinkage.

Spandex elastic yarn, which is the backing yarn, has good shrinkage characteristics, thereby increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue on the final processed paper, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing a good elasticity and resilience to the warp knitted fabric. When impregnated with a water-soluble polyurethane resin, the elasticity of the warp knit, especially the resilient elasticity is maximized to have a similar appearance and feel to natural leather. When using spandex elastic yarn, the total denier of the spandex is preferably 20 to 90 denier, and the single yarn fineness is preferably 15 denier or more.

On the other hand, the general polyester multifilament used as the yarn for the back structure has a single yarn fineness 1-3 denier. If the single yarn fineness is less than 1 denier, the morphological stability of the warp knit is lowered, and if it exceeds 3 deniers, the feel of the warp knit is lowered. In addition, the total fineness of the polyester multifilament is preferably 30-80 denier.

It is preferable that the length of the pile of polyester microfibers (which is the yarns piled on the surface by brushing, etc. among the eluted surface tissue yarns) in the surface of the warp knitted paper is 0.1-0.3 mm. If the length of the pile exceeds 0.3mm, the feel of the warp knitted fabric may be degraded. If the length of the pile is less than 0.1 mm, the defect of the warp knitted fabric may be easily exposed to the outside and the appearance may be degraded.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 40-87% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If it is less than 40% by weight, there is a possibility that the warp knitted fabric will be poor, and if it exceeds 87% by weight, the content of intermediate yarns and backing yarns may be relatively low, leading to a decrease in drape and mechanical properties. .

On the other hand, the content of the back surface yarn is preferably 23 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and drape may be lowered.

In the present invention, the suede warp knitted fabric described above is a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier as a surface tissue yarn, and a polyester multifilament or spandex elastic yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 deniers. After knitting the warp knitted paper in the 2-bar warp knitting machine using each of the backing yarns, continue shearing and heat setting after primary raising to shrink the warp knit paper by 35% or more in the width direction, and then continue. Heat-fixed warp knitted paper with an aqueous alkali solution to elute (reduce) the eluting component in the composite fiber, and then impregnate the water-soluble polyurethane resin in the weight-treated warp knitted paper under heat treatment conditions, and then dry and dye the warp knitted paper. After shrinking at least 40% in the width direction, and subsequently dyed warp knitted fabric is made by sanding or brushing after the second brushed.

The present invention is characterized in that the first raising in the warp knitted paper state as described above, and after the weight loss, impregnated the water-soluble polyurethane resin during heat drying, and then second raising in the dyed warp knitted paper state. It is preferable that the first brushing is conducted at least four times, the heat setting after the second brushing is performed at 120 ° C. or higher, and the shearing is performed once.

In the impregnation process of the water-soluble polyurethane resin, a method of impregnating the water-soluble polyurethane resin liquid into the weight-reduced warp knitted fabric by using a general wet impregnation apparatus equipped with an impregnation tank, a coagulation tank, and a water washing tank may be applied.

The weight loss step of eluting the component eluted in the composite fiber with an aqueous alkali solution is preferably performed for 30 minutes to 60 minutes in a 1% NaOH aqueous solution at 98 ° C., and dyeing is preferably performed at 130 ° C. for 10 to 60 minutes.

However, the present invention does not specifically limit the conditions of raising, heat setting, shearing, weight loss, dyeing, and the like.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention prepared as described above is densely composed of ultrafine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and is very excellent in touch and appearance. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is impregnated with a water-soluble polyurethane resin in the pre-dyeing process to produce a suede-like warp knitted fabric similar to natural leather by excellent in appearance, resilience and touch.

As such, the suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention has excellent touch, appearance, elasticity and resilience, and is very useful as a material for women's clothing or living materials such as sofas.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of the suede warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

Softness

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more are judged to be soft, and 5-7 are judged to be soft, and 8 or more are judged to be soft.

Drape

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape. Separated by.

Lighting effect

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

· Exterior

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, 5-7 people judge that the appearance is good.

· Kyungsung

In the same economy, the economy is excellent when there is no recovery of the hourly expectation due to the defect of yarn at the speed of 500m / min, and the economy is normal when the recovery of the expectation per hour is 1-2 times. In the case of more than three times per hour, the canon was judged to be in poor condition, and the number of times per year was the average number of times per hour based on the operation of the expected expectations during the completion of the canon of the yarn wound in a 9kg volume. Calculated.

Fabrication

When knitting at the speed of 1,000 m / min in the same knitting machine, the knitting performance is excellent when there is no peak recovery of the hourly expectation due to the defect of yarn during knitting, and when the number of peaks of the hourly expectation is 1-2 times In the state of, when the number of battalions per hour was more than three times, it was judged that the knitting ability was poor, and the number of batters was calculated as the average number of battalions per hour based on the operating conditions of the expected expectations when operating for one day.

Raising

When brushing at the speed of 15m / min in the same brushing machine, good brushing is possible when 8 brushings are completed, and brushing is good when good brushing is completed with 10 brushings. It was determined that the raising was poor.

Resilience of suede warp knitted paper (recovery rate)

A line is drawn at a 45 ° angle to the slope on a suede warp knit having a length of 50 cm in a warp direction and a length of 50 cm in the weft direction, and the suede warp knit is positioned so that its end faces downward. (L ₁ ) was measured, stretched with a weight of 1.5 kg at the end of the suede warp knitted paper (the lower end of the marked line), and after 2 minutes, the weight was removed and left for 2 minutes, then the length of the suede warp knitted paper Substitute (L ₂ ) into the equation below to calculate the recovery rate (R) of the suede warp knitted paper, which is the resilience of the suede warp knitted paper.

However, the recovery rate (R) of the final suede warp knitted paper is the average value of the recovery rates calculated as described above three times per sample.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with total densities of 75 deniers is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and spandex elastic yarn with a single yarn fineness of 20 deniers (total fineness of 60 deniers) is used as the yarn for the backside tissue. Manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After shearing and heat-setting after the first raising to shrink 40% of the warp knitted fabric thus prepared, the weight of the heat-fixed warp knitted fabric was continuously reduced (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes), and then the weight loss treatment was continued. The letter was impregnated with water-soluble polyurethane resin 10% by weight relative to the weight of the processed suede warp knitted paper, and then dried and dyed (dispersed) to shrink the warp knitted paper 45% in the width direction, followed by second raising of the colored warp knitted paper. After sanding, suede warp knitted paper having a pile length of 0.2 mm was formed on the surface thereof, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and Spandex elastic yarn (total 45 degrees denier) with single yarn fineness is used as the yarn for the backside tissue. Manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 31% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After shearing and heat-setting after the first raising to shrink 45% of the warp knitted fabric thus prepared, the weight of the heat-fixed warp knitted fabric was continuously reduced (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), and then the weight loss treatment was continued. The letter is impregnated with water-soluble polyurethane resin 15% by weight relative to the weight of the processed suede warp knitted paper, and then dried and dyed (dispersant) to shrink the warp knitted paper by 55% in the width direction. After brushing, suede warp knitted paper having a pile length of 0.2 mm, which was attached to the surface, was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Example 3

Elastomeric composite fibers having polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and a fiber-forming component fineness formed after eluting the eluting component with 0.08 denier and 75 denier total fineness. Using a yarn of surface texture, polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 2 denier and a total fineness of 50 denier is used as a yarn of the backside tissue, and a warp knitted fabric having a density of 23 bones / cm is produced. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in the warp knitted fabric is 45% by weight: 55% by weight. After shearing and heat-setting after the first raising to shrink 40% of the warp knitted fabric thus prepared, the weight of the heat-fixed warp knitted fabric was continuously reduced (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes), and then the weight loss treatment was continued. The letter was impregnated with water-soluble polyurethane resin 15% by weight relative to the weight of suede warp knitted paper, then dried and dyed (dispersant) to shrink the warp knitted paper 45% in the width direction. After sanding, suede warp knitted paper having a pile length of 0.2 mm was formed on the surface thereof, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Example 4

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elution type composite fiber with total densities of 75 deniers is used as the yarn for surface texture, and polyester multifilament with single yarn fineness of 1 denier and total densities of 40 denier is used as the yarn for the backside tissue, and the density is 23C / CM. Manufactured by letter. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After shearing and heat-setting after the first raising to shrink 45% of the warp knitted fabric thus prepared, the weight of the heat-fixed warp knitted fabric was continuously reduced (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), and then the weight loss treatment was continued. The letter was impregnated with water-soluble polyurethane resin 7% by weight relative to the weight of the processed suede warp knitted paper, and then dried and dyed (dispersed) to shrink the warp knitted paper by 55% in the width direction. Brushed after brushing to prepare a suede-like warp knitted paper having a pile length of 0.2mm, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elution type composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness as yarn for surface texture, polyester multifilament with single yarn fineness of 0.5 denier and 30 denier as fine yarn as density of 23C / CM Manufactured by letter. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 48% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. Heat-fixed and sheared after primary raising to 40% shrink the warp knitted fabric prepared in this way, and then reduced the shearing warp knitted fabric (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), and then continue to reduce the weight The letter was dried and dyed (dispersed) to shrink the warp knitted paper by 45% in the width direction, followed by a second brushing and sanding of the dyed warp knitted paper, followed by sanding the suede warp knitted paper with a pile length of 0.4 mm. It prepared and evaluated the physical property, and is shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Hard-knit paper with density 23C / CM, using eluted composite fiber with denier and 75 denier as the yarn for surface texture, and spandex elastic yarn with 20 denier single yarn fineness (60 denier total yarn) as yarn for backside tissue To manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 42% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. Heat-fixed and sheared after primary raising to 45% shrink the warp knitted fabric thus prepared, and then reduced the shearing warp knitted fabric (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), and then continue to lose weight The letter was dried and dyed (dispersed) to shrink the warp knitted paper by 55% in the width direction, and then brushed the secondary dyed warp knitted paper with a second brush and then brushed the suede paper warp with a length of 0.4 mm It prepared and evaluated the physical property, and is shown in Table 1.

<Table 1> Property evaluation results of warp knitted paper

division Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Softness Great Great Great Great usually Bad Drape Castle Great Great Great Great Bad Great Lighting effect Great Great Great Great Great Bad Exterior Great Great Great Great usually usually Kyung Sung Jeong Great Great Great Great Great Great Organization Great Great Great Great usually Great Raising Great Great Great Great usually usually Resilience (%) (Recovery Rate) 75 80 70 65 35 45

The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a short pile length, a high hair density, and a water-soluble polyurethane resin, which is excellent in overall resilience and feel as well as in appearance. As a result, the suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a living material such as women's clothing material and sofa. In addition, the production method of the present invention can produce the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

Claims (6)

 The surface structure is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and the back surface is composed of polyester multifilament or spandex elastic yarn having a single denier fineness of 1-3 denier, and the surfaces of the polyester ultra-fine yarn A suede warp knit having excellent appearance and feel, which is hairy and has a water-soluble polyurethane resin impregnated in the suede warp knit. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the water-soluble polyurethane resin impregnation amount is 5-20% by weight relative to the total weight of the suede warp knitted fabric. The suede warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the total fineness of the polyester multifilament is 30 to 80 denier. The suede-like warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness of the spandex elastic yarn is 15 denier or more. The suede warp knit with excellent appearance and feel according to claim 1, wherein the length of the piled hair on the surface is 0.1-0.3 mm. The composite fiber composed of the fiber-forming component and the eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier was used as the surface tissue yarn, and the polyester multifilament or the spandex elastic yarn having the single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier was used as the back surface yarn, respectively. After knitting the warp knit in the bar warp knitting machine, after shearing and heat-setting after the first raising to shrink more than 35% of the warp knit dough in the width direction, and then continuously set the warp knit with alkaline aqueous solution After treatment, the eluted component in the composite fiber was eluted (reduced), followed by impregnating water-soluble polyurethane resin into the light-knitted paper, which was then reduced under heat treatment conditions, and then dried and dyed to shrink the light-knitted paper at least 40% in the width direction. Produced suede warp knitted paper with excellent appearance and feel, characterized by continuously sanding or brushing dyed warp knitted paper .