KR100614623B1 - A suede like warp knit fabric with excellent appearance and touch, and a process of preparing for the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric excellent in appearance and feel and a method of manufacturing the same. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a three-layered structure in which intermediate tissues are located between the surface tissue and the backside tissue in which the piles of polyester ultra-fine yarns are embedded, and the surface texture is a polyester microfiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier. The intermediate structure is composed of a polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 3 denier, and the back surface is composed of spandex elastic yarn, and pile length of a polyester ultrafine yarn embedded in the surface texture Is characterized in that 0.1-0.3mm. The manufacturing method of the present invention is characterized in that after knitting the warp knitted fabric having the three-layer structure, and then brushed first in the knitted warp knitted dough state, and second brushed again in the reduced and dyed warp knitted fabric state . The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is used for production of living products such as women's clothing and sofas.

Warp knitted paper, suede nail, appearance, feel, 3-layer structure, composite fiber, spandex, microfiber

Description

A suede like warp knit fabric with excellent appearance and touch, and a process of preparing for the same}

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a warp knit (hereinafter referred to as "suede warp knit") having a fine microfiber yarn on the surface and excellent in feel and appearance, and a method of manufacturing the same.

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are useful as artificial leather or women's clothing material because the tissue is very dense, soft, and has excellent appearance and drape properties.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

Generally, the ultrafine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers that can be manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the split spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the warp knitted fabrics also have poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when it is applied to warp knitted fabrics using a composite fiber of 0.05 denier level after dissolution prepared by two-component elution spinning method, it has good hardness, weaving property and feel, but the eluting component is eluted at the post-processing stage for ultra-miniaturization. There is a problem that the tissue density of the loose becomes poor appearance of the fabric.

More specifically, when the warp knitted fabric is made of composite fibers of 0.05 denier or more after elution, the single filament fineness of the microfiber (fibrous forming component) remaining after the dissolution of the eluting component is thick, thereby decreasing the hair density of the ultra microfibers that have entered the surface of the warp knitted fabric. This phenomenon becomes more severe as the tissue density of the warp knit becomes loose due to the dissolution of the eluting component.                         

When the fine density of the microfibers decreases, defects such as weaving bones, spots, and slanted lines on the warp knitted paper are easily exposed to the outside, thereby deteriorating the appearance of the warp knitted paper. In addition, the surface deformation is severely formed by the physical friction between the machine and the dyeing water in the dyeing process. Therefore, in order to prevent the appearance of warp knitted paper, the length of the piled ultra-microfiber (pile) should be formed to be longer than 0.5mm. However, when the length of the pile is increased, the touch and the suede effect are deteriorated.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, as described above, commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a suede warp knitted paper suitable for materials such as women's clothing with excellent touch and appearance with good diameter and knitting.

The present invention has a short length of the microfiber (hereinafter referred to as a "file"), which is excellent in touch and writing effect, but also prevents the defects of the warp letter from being exposed to the outside due to the high density of the file. Rather, the present invention also provides a suede warp letter similar to natural suede. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method for producing the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention for achieving the above problems is a three-layered structure in which an intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the backside tissue in which piles of polyester microfibers are incorporated, and the surface tissue is a single yarn fineness. Is 0.001-0.05 denier polyester microfiber yarn, the intermediate structure is composed of a polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness 1-3 denier, the back surface is composed of spandex elastic yarn, which is embedded in the surface tissue It is characterized in that the pile length of the polyester microfiber yarn is 0.1-0.3mm.

In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is a [3] polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier with a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier on a 3-bar warp knitting machine. The multifilament is fed into the intermediate tissue yarn, and the spandex elastic yarn is fed to the back tissue yarn, respectively, to knit the three-layered warp knitted fabric, and then [ii] the first raised to shrink the warp knitted fabric by 35% or more in the width direction. After heat setting and shearing, [ⅲ] continue to treat the sheared warp knitted paper with an alkaline aqueous solution to elute the eluted components in the composite fiber, dye and dry, and finally reduce the width to 40% or more in the width direction. , [Ⅳ] and then secondly brushed dried warp knitted paper, and then cleans the surface pile by sanding or brushing.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors have completed the present invention in view of the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design is very important in order to produce a suede warp knitted fabric with a very soft and excellent appearance, such as natural suede.                     

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier at the time of knitting as a yarn of the surface tissue. When the composite fiber is eluted by removal of alkali after removal, only the fiber-forming component remains, and their single yarn fineness is 0.001-0.05 denier.

If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.05 denier, there is a disadvantage that the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. Specifically, if the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn, that is, the single yarn fineness of the piled microfibers (pile) exceeds 0.05 denier, the hair density of the pile decreases, and the touch and lighting effects are not only deteriorated. The defects of the back are easily exposed to the outside, and the appearance of the warp knitted paper is also reduced. If the length of the pile is formed to a level of 0.5 mm or more in order to prevent the appearance of warp knitted paper, the tactile and lighting effects become worse.

If it is less than 0.001 denier, the touch is softly peeled or rubbed and the hairs are easily detached or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20-40% by weight.

In order to improve the feel and appearance of warp knitted paper, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. To this end, in the present invention, the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn is made fine as described above.                     

In addition, the present invention is characterized by increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue by the shrinkage of these using a spandex elastic yarn as the yarn of the back surface tissue. Spandex elastic yarn, which is the backing yarn, has good shrinkage characteristics, thereby increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue on the final processed paper, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing a good elasticity and resilience to the warp knitted fabric. The total denier of the spandex is preferably 20-90 denier level, and the single yarn fineness is preferably 15 denier or more.

Intermediate yarns, on the other hand, are composed of polyester multifilaments having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 deniers. Intermediate tissue yarns provide morphological stability to warp knitted fabrics, and their total fineness is preferably 30-80 deniers. If the single yarn fineness of the intermediate yarn is less than 1 denier, the morphological stability of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if it exceeds 3 denier, the touch of the warp knitted fabric is lowered.

The length of piles of polyester microfibers on the surface of warp knitted paper (the yarns on the surface caused by brushing, etc. among the eluted surface tissue yarns) is 0.1-0.3mm. If the length of the pile exceeds 0.3mm, the feel of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if the length of the pile is less than 0.1 mm, the defect of the warp knitted fabric is easily exposed to the outside and the appearance is degraded.

The warp density of the processed warp knitted fabric is preferably 18-26 / CM.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 40-87% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If the content is less than 40% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric may be poor. If the content is more than 87% by weight, the content of intermediate yarns and backing yarns may be relatively low, leading to deterioration of drape and mechanical properties.                     

On the other hand, the content of the intermediate yarn and the backing yarn is preferably 3-20% by weight and 10-57% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper, respectively. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and drape may be lowered.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a multi-layered yarn composed of a fiber-forming component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier and an eluting component on a 3-bar warp knitting machine as a surface tissue yarn, and having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 deniers. After feeding the filament into the intermediate tissue yarn and the spandex elastic yarn into the backside yarn, respectively, the three-layered warp knitted fabric was knitted, and then [ii] the first raising to shrink the warp knitted fabric to the width direction by 35% or more. After heat setting and shearing, [ⅲ] continue to treat the sheared warp knitted paper with alkaline aqueous solution to elute the eluted components in the composite fiber, dye and dry, and finally reduce the width to 40% or more in the width direction, and then [ Ⅳ] The surface pile is cleaned by sanding or brushing after second brushing of dried warp knitted paper.

The present invention is characterized in that the first raising in the warp knitted paper state as described above, and the second brush again in the reduced and dyed warp knitted fabric state. It is preferable that the first brushing is carried out at least four times, the heat setting after the second brushing is performed at 120 ° C. or higher, and the shearing is performed once.

The weight loss step of eluting the component eluted in the composite fiber with an aqueous alkali solution is preferably performed for 30 minutes to 60 minutes in a 1% NaOH aqueous solution at 98 ° C., and dyeing is preferably performed at 130 ° C. for 10 to 60 minutes.                     

However, the present invention does not specifically limit the conditions of raising, heat setting, shearing, weight loss, dyeing, and the like.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention prepared as described above is densely composed of ultrafine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and is very excellent in touch and appearance. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a spandex elastic yarn having a good stretch property of the back surface tissue is more dense ultra-fine density of the surface tissue.

As such, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention has excellent touch, appearance, elasticity and drape, and is very useful as a material for women's clothing or artificial leather.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

Softness

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more are judged to be soft, and 5-7 are judged to be soft, and 8 or more are judged to be soft.

Drape property

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape. Separated by.

Lighting effect

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

·Exterior

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, 5-7 people judge that the appearance is good.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate is a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using eluted composite fiber as surface yarn, 30 denier spandex yarn as backing yarn, and 50 denier / 24 filament polyester multifilament with 2 denier single yarn as intermediate yarn Recompose the warp knit dough. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 71% by weight: 21% by weight: 8% by weight. Thus prepared warp knitted paper was first brushed seven times to shrink 40% in the width direction, and then a preliminary set (190 ° C.), shearing (one time), and weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 60 minutes) , Dyeing [dispersant], drying (shrinking more than 40% in the width direction starting from the dough), secondary brushed and sanded to prepare a warp knitted fabric with a warp density of 23 / CM, and the physical properties are shown in Table 1 It was.                     

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using eluted composite fiber as surface yarn, 30 denier spandex elastic yarn as backside yarn, and 50 denier / 24 filament polyester multifilament with 2 denier single yarn as middle yarn Tissue the flat paper dough. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 70 wt%: 30 wt%: 10 wt%. The warp knitted paper thus prepared was first brushed seven times so as to shrink 40% in the width direction, and then a preliminary set (190 ° C.), shearing (one time), and weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes) , Dyeing [dispersant], drying (finally 40% shrinkage), secondary brushed and sanded to prepare a warp knitted fabric with a warp density of 23 / CM, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultra fineness formed after eluting component is 0.05 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and the warp knitted fabric is sectioned using a regular polyester yarn having a fineness of 0.5 denier as the yarn for the back tissue. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 65% by weight: 35% by weight. The warp knitted fabric prepared in this manner was raised to 50% shrinkage, and then a preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersion material], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultrafineness formed after eluting component is 0.2 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and polyester yarn having a fineness of 5 denier is used as the yarn for the back tissue, and the warp knitted fabric is sectioned. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 60% by weight: 40% by weight. After raising the warp kneaded dough 20% shrinkage and then pre-set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using eluted composite fiber as surface yarn, 40 denier spandex elastic yarn as intermediate tissue yarn, and 48 denier / 16 filament polyester multifilament with 3 denier single yarn as backside yarn Truncate the letter. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface fabric yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 35% by weight: 10% by weight. The warp knitted paper thus prepared was first brushed seven times so as to shrink 40% in the width direction, and then a preliminary set (190 ° C.), shearing (one time), and weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes) , Dyeing [dispersant], drying (finally 40% shrinkage), secondary brushed and sanded to prepare a warp knitted fabric with a warp density of 23 / CM, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1.

Light letter property evaluation result division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effect Exterior Example 1 Great Great Great Great Example 2 Great Great Great Great Comparative Example 1 usually Bad usually usually Comparative Example 2 Bad usually Bad usually Comparative Example 3 Bad usually usually usually

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a short file length and high hair density, which is excellent in touch and excellent in appearance. As a result, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is used as women's clothing. In addition, the production method of the present invention can produce the warp knitted paper with good processability.

Claims (6)

It is a three-layered structure in which an intermediate structure is located between the surface tissue and the backside tissue in which piles of polyester microfibers are piled, and the surface tissue is composed of a polyester microfiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, The tissue is composed of a polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier, and the back surface is composed of spandex elastic yarn, and the pile length of the polyester ultra-fine yarn in the surface tissue is 0.1-0.3mm. Suede-like warp letter with excellent touch and appearance. The suede-like warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness of the spandex elastic yarn is 15 denier or more. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the total fineness of the polyester multifilament is 30-80 denier. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp knitted fabric has an inclination density of 18-26 / CM after processing. [Ⅰ] 3-bar warp knitting machine is composed of fiber-forming component and elution component with single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier as surface tissue yarn and polyester multifilament with single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier as intermediate tissue yarn After supplying each of the spandex elastic yarns to the backing yarn, the three-layer warp knitted paper dough is cut and then [Ii] heat-fixing and shearing after first raising to shrink the warp knit paper by 35% or more in the width direction; [8] Continue to treat the sheared warp knitted paper with an alkaline aqueous solution to elute the eluted components in the composite fiber, then dye and dry the final shrinkage to at least 40%. [Iii] A method of producing a suede warp knit having excellent touch and appearance, characterized in that it is subsequently sanded or brushed after further drying the warp knitted fabric. The method of producing a suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the length of pile piled on the surface of the warp knitted fabric is adjusted to 0.1-0.3 mm during shearing, sanding and brushing treatment.