KR100667621B1 - A suede like warp knit fabric with excellent appearance and touch, and a process of preparing for the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric excellent in appearance and feel and a method of manufacturing the same. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a two-layered structure having a surface structure and a back structure in which piles of polyester microfiber yarns are incorporated, and the surface structure is composed of a polyester microfiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier. The back surface is composed of spandex elastic yarn, characterized in that the pile length of the polyester ultra-fine yarn in the surface tissue is 0.1-0.3mm. The manufacturing method of the present invention is characterized in that the warp knitted paper dough having the two-layer structure, and then buffing it for 2-10 times instead of brushing after weight loss, dyeing and drying. The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is used in the manufacture of women's clothing and the like.

Warp knitted paper, suede, appearance, texture, two-layer structure, composite fiber, spandex, microfiber

Description

A suede like warp knit fabric with excellent appearance and touch, and a process of preparing for the same}

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a warp knit (hereinafter referred to as "suede warp knit") having a fine microfiber yarn on the surface and excellent in feel and appearance, and a method of manufacturing the same.

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are useful as artificial leather or women's clothing material because the tissue is very dense, soft, and has excellent appearance and drape properties.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the warp knitted fabrics also have poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to warp knitted fabrics using 0.05 or more denier composite fibers after elution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the hardness of the fabric is good, but the elution component is eluted in the post-processing step for ultra-miniaturization. There is a problem that the tissue density is loose and the appearance of the fabric is poor.

More specifically, when the warp knitted fabric is made of composite fibers of 0.05 denier or more after elution, the single filament fineness of the microfiber (fibrous forming component) remaining after the dissolution of the eluting component is thick, thereby decreasing the hair density of the ultra microfibers that have entered the surface of the warp knitted fabric. This phenomenon becomes more severe as the tissue density of the warp knit becomes loose due to the dissolution of the eluting component.

When the fine density of the microfibers decreases, defects such as weaving bones, spots, and slanted lines of the warp knitted fabric are easily exposed to the outside, resulting in poor appearance of the warp knitted fabric. Therefore, in order to prevent the appearance of warp knitted paper, the length of the piled ultra-microfiber (pile) should be formed to be longer than 0.5mm. However, when the length of the pile is increased, the touch and the suede effect are deteriorated.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, as described above, commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a suede warp knitted paper suitable for materials such as women's clothing with excellent touch and appearance with good diameter and knitting.

The present invention is excellent in the touch and writing effect, etc., because the length of the ultra-fine filaments (hereinafter referred to as "file") is high, the high density of piles of the file prevents the defects of warp knitted paper from being exposed to the outside. To provide an excellent foil suede warp letter. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method for producing the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

Suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention for achieving the above problems is a two-layer structure having a surface structure and a back surface structure in which piles of polyester microfibers are incorporated, the surface texture is 0.001-0.05 denier It is composed of a polyester ultra-fine yarn, the back structure is composed of a spandex elastic yarn, characterized in that the pile length of the polyester ultra-fine yarn in the surface tissue (pile) is 0.1-0.3mm.

In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is to supply a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier on a 2-bar warp knitting machine as a surface tissue yarn, and a spandex elastic yarn to a back tissue yarn, respectively After knitting the two-layered warp knitted fabric, [ii] treating the warp knitted fabric with an alkaline aqueous solution to elute the eluted component in the composite fiber, and then dyeing and drying the resin to make 20% or more of the width shrinkage. Ⅲ] characterized in that buffing the dried knot kyun 2-10 times.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors have completed the present invention in view of the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design is very important in order to produce a suede warp knitted fabric with a very soft and excellent appearance, such as natural suede.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier at the time of knitting as a yarn of the surface tissue. When the composite fiber is eluted by removal of alkali after removal, only the fiber-forming component remains, and their single yarn fineness is 0.001-0.05 denier.

If the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.05 denier, there is a disadvantage that the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. Specifically, if the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn, that is, the single yarn fineness of the piled superfine yarn (pile) exceeds 0.05 denier, the hair density of the pile decreases, so that the touch and writing effects are not only reduced, but also the jagged bone in the warp knitted fabric The defects of the back are easily exposed to the outside, and the appearance of the warp knitted paper is also reduced. If the length of the pile is formed to a level of 0.5 mm or more in order to prevent the appearance of warp knitted paper, the tactile and lighting effects become worse.

If it is less than 0.001 denier, the touch is softly peeled or rubbed and the hairs are easily detached or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20-40% by weight.

In order to improve the feel and appearance of warp knitted paper, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. To this end, in the present invention, the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn is made fine as described above.

In addition, the present invention is characterized by increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue by the shrinkage of these using a spandex elastic yarn as the yarn of the back surface tissue. Spandex elastic yarn, which is the backing yarn, has good shrinkage characteristics, thereby increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue on the final processed paper, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing a good elasticity and resilience to the warp knitted fabric. The total denier of the spandex is preferably 20-90 denier level, and the single yarn fineness is preferably 15 denier or more.

The length of piles of polyester microfibers on the surface of warp knitted paper (the yarns on the surface caused by brushing, etc. among the eluted surface tissue yarns) is 0.1-0.3mm. If the length of the pile exceeds 0.3mm, the feel of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if the length of the pile is less than 0.1 mm, the defect of the warp knitted fabric is easily exposed to the outside and the appearance is degraded.

The warp density of the processed warp knitted fabric is preferably 20-40 / CM.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 70-95% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If it is less than 70% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric will be poor, and if it is more than 95% by weight, the content of intermediate yarns and backing yarns is relatively low, which may reduce elasticity, drape and mechanical properties. have.

On the other hand, the content of the back surface yarn is preferably 5-30% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the drape may be reduced.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a 2-bar warp knitting machine having a single fiber fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier and a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component as surface tissue yarns, and spandex elastic yarns as back tissue yarns, respectively. After the knitting of the layered warp knitted paper, [ii] treating the warp knitted paper with an alkaline aqueous solution to elute the eluted component in the composite fiber, and then dyeing and drying to reduce the width of the warp knitted paper by 20% or more. Subsequently, the dried warp knitted paper is prepared by buffing 2-10 times.

The present invention is characterized in that the reduced and dyed warp knitted paper as described above to form a pile by buffing 2 to 10 times instead of raising. The buffing treatment is preferably carried out sequentially 2 to 10 times to minimize the damage of the spandex fibers distributed on the back side and to make the surface pile short and straight.                     

The weight loss step of eluting the component eluted in the composite fiber with an aqueous alkali solution is preferably performed for 30 minutes to 60 minutes in a 1% NaOH aqueous solution at 98 ° C., and dyeing is preferably performed at 130 ° C. for 10 to 60 minutes.

However, the present invention does not specifically limit the conditions such as weight loss, dyeing, and the like.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention prepared as described above is densely composed of ultrafine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and is very excellent in touch and appearance. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a spandex elastic yarn having a good stretch property of the back surface tissue is more dense ultra-fine density of the surface tissue.

Thus, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in touch, appearance, elasticity and drape, and is very useful as a material for women's clothing or artificial leather because of its thin thickness.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

Softness

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more are judged to be soft, and 5-7 are judged to be soft, and 8 or more are judged to be soft.

Drape property

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape. Separated by.                     

Lighting effect

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

·Exterior

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, 5-7 people judge that the appearance is good.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

Example 1

Elastomeric composite fiber with polyethylene terephthalate as fiber-forming component and polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolysis ability as elution component, and elution component fiber-forming component fineness formed after eluting 0.01 denier as yarn for surface tissue Then, 40 denier spandex elastic yarn is used as the backside tissue yarn to knit the knitted paper dough. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 91% by weight: 9% by weight. The warp knitting paper thus prepared was reduced (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes), dyed [dispersion material], and dried, then buffed the dried warp knitted paper 6 times to finally shrink 30% in the width direction. A warp knitted fabric having a warp density of 33 / CM was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.                     

Example 2

Elution type composite fiber with polyethylene terephthalate as fiber-forming component and polyester copolymer polymer with excellent alkali hydrolysis ability as elution component, and elution component fiber-forming component fineness formed after elution 0.005 denier as yarn for surface tissue Then, 40 denier spandex elastic yarn is used as the backside tissue yarn to knit the knitted paper dough. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 89% by weight: 11% by weight. The warp knitting paper thus prepared was reduced (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ° C. × 30 minutes), dyed [dispersion material] and dried, and then dried dried warp knitted paper 8 times to finally shrink 35% in the width direction. A warp knitted fabric having a warp density of 35 / CM was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultra fineness formed after eluting component is 0.05 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and the warp knitted fabric is sectioned using a regular polyester yarn having a fineness of 0.5 denier as the yarn for the back tissue. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 70% by weight: 30% by weight. The warp knitted fabric prepared in this manner was raised to 50% shrinkage, and then a preliminary set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersion material], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.                     

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultrafineness formed after eluting component is 0.2 denier. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and polyester yarn having a fineness of 5 denier is used as the yarn for the back tissue, and the warp knitted fabric is sectioned. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 65% by weight: 35% by weight. After raising the warp kneaded dough 20% shrinkage and then pre-set (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 60 bones / inch, the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Light letter property evaluation result division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effect Exterior Example 1 Great Great Great Great Example 2 Great Great Great Great Comparative Example 1 usually Bad usually usually Comparative Example 2 Bad usually Bad usually

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a short file length and high hair density, which is excellent in touch and excellent in appearance. In addition, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is also thin. As a result, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is used as women's clothing. In addition, the production method of the present invention can produce the warp knitted paper with good processability.

Claims (6)

It is a two-layered structure having a surface structure and a back surface structure in which piles of polyester microfiber yarns are incorporated, and the surface structure is composed of a polyester microfiber yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and the back surface structure is made of spandex elastic yarn. Suede warp knitted paper excellent in touch and appearance, characterized in that the pile length of the polyester ultra-fine yarn (pile) in the surface structure is 0.1-0.3mm. The suede-like warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness of the spandex elastic yarn is 15 denier or more. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp knitted fabric has an inclination density of 20-40 / CM after processing. delete [Ⅰ] 2-bar warp knitting machine with two-layered warp knitted fabric by supplying composite fiber composed of fiber-forming component and eluting component with single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier in surface tissue yarn and spandex elastic yarn in back tissue yarn [2] After kneading, the warp knitted paper is treated with an alkaline aqueous solution to elute the eluted component in the composite fiber, and then dyed and dried to finally shrink by more than 20% in the width direction. The method of producing a suede warp knit excellent in feel and appearance, characterized in that buffing in 2-10 times. The method according to claim 5, wherein the length of the pile piled on the surface of the warp knitted paper is adjusted to 0.1-0.3 mm during the buffing and sanding treatment.