KR100667622B1 - A suede-like warp knit with different dyeing property between surface and back - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric having different surface and backside dyeing properties and a method of manufacturing the same. The suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a polyester microfiber having a surface texture of single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and a backside structure of a basic dyed polyester multifilament or polyamide multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier. It is composed, the surface of the polyester (micro) yarns (Pile) is characterized in that the hair (立 毛). In addition, the production method of the present invention is a basic dyeing type polyester multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1-31 denier composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component of polyester having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier Alternatively, polyamide multifilament is used as a backing yarn, respectively, to knit the warp knitted paper in a 2-bar warp knitting machine, and the first warp treatment is performed so that the warp knitted fabric is shrunk at least 35% in the width direction, and then continues to heat. Fixing, shearing, weight loss (removal of the elution component in the composite fiber), dyeing and drying to make the warp knitted paper shrink more than 40% in the width direction, and then continue drying the warp knitted after second brushing or brushing It is characterized by.

Warp knitted paper, suede yarn, microfiber, dyeing property, composite fiber, touch, appearance.

Description

A suede-like warp knit with different dyeing property between surface and back}

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric having different surface and backside dyeing properties and a method of manufacturing the same.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric having a polyester super microfiber yarn on the surface, which is excellent in feel and appearance, and which has different dyeing characteristics on the front and back surfaces thereof, and a manufacturing method thereof.

The present invention relates to a suede warp knitted fabric and a method of manufacturing the same, which is useful for artificial leather or women's clothing material because the tissue is very dense and soft, and has excellent drape properties.

Suede-like warp knits are warp knits that have the same effect as natural leather because the piles of fibers are thinned to the surface.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultrafine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. The fineness of the microfibers that can be manufactured by direct spinning is 0.3-0.5 denier. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers that can be produced by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers that can be produced by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the manufactured suede warp knitted fabric also has poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to suede warp knitted fabric using a composite fiber having a level of 0.05 denier or less after dissolution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the elution component is eluted in the post-processing step for the ultra-miniaturization. As a result, the tissue density of the fabric becomes loose, resulting in a poor appearance of the fabric.                         

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers is progressing in various ways in the textile sector, but in the case of warp knitting, as described above, due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing, the commercialization has not progressed.

In addition, the suede warp knitted fabric prepared according to the above-described conventional method is not only bad in touch and appearance, but also has a problem in that the color of the surface and the back surface cannot be different because the surface and the back surface have the same dyeing characteristics.

An object of the present invention is to provide a suede warp knitted paper that is excellent in the touch and appearance to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems and at the same time different in color of the surface and the back.

The present invention is short in the length of the microfibers (hereinafter referred to as "file") is excellent in the touch and writing effect, but the high density of piles of the file to prevent the defects of the warp knitted paper to be exposed to the outside Rather, it is to provide a suede warp knitted paper with different colors on the front and back surfaces. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method for producing the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

Suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention for achieving the above problems, the surface structure is composed of a polyester ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, the basic dyed polyester having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier It is composed of a multifilament or polyamide multifilament, the surface is characterized in that the piles (Pile) of the polyester ultra-fine yarn.

In addition, the method for producing the suede warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component of polyester having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier as a surface tissue yarn, single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier Knitting the warp knitted paper in a 2-bar warp knitting machine using phosphorus basic dye-type polyester multifilament or polyamide multifilament as a backside yarn, respectively, and then primary shrinkage of the manufactured warp knit dough by 35% or more in the width direction After brushing, shearing, heat setting, weight loss (removing the eluted component in the composite fiber), dyeing, and drying to shrink the warp knitted paper by more than 40% in the width direction, and then continue to dry the warp knitted paper. Sanding or brushing after the second brushing.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The inventors found that the selection and combination of materials to be applied during tissue design are very important for producing suede warp knitted fabrics that are very soft, such as natural suede, but have different dyeing characteristics on the surface and the back when they are dyed. In light of the fact, the present invention has been completed.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component of a polyester having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier at the time of knitting, as a yarn of the surface texture. When the composite fiber is removed by elution after removal of alkali, only the fiber-forming component remains, and their single yarn fineness is 0.001-0.05 denier.

If the single yarn fineness of surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.05 denier, the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. If it is less than 0.001 denier, the touch is soft but the hairs are easily dropped by friction. Or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

Specifically, when the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn, that is, the single yarn fineness of the piled superfine yarn (pile) exceeds 0.05 denier, the hair density of the pile decreases, so that the touch and lighting effect effect is lowered, and the slant line in the warp knitted fabric The defects of the back are easily exposed to the outside, and the appearance of the warp knitted paper is also reduced. When the length of the pile is formed to a level of 0.5 mm or more in order to prevent the appearance of warp knitted paper, the tactile and lighting effects become worse.

Therefore, it is preferable that the pile length piled on the surface of the suede warp knitted fabric of this invention is 0.1-0.3 mm.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20-40% by weight.

In order to improve the feel and appearance of warp knitted paper, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. To this end, in the present invention, the single yarn fineness of the surface tissue yarn is made fine as described above.

In the present invention, the dyeing characteristics of the surface tissue and the back surface tissue using a polyester multifilament (hereinafter referred to as "basic dye-type polyester multifilament") or polyamide multifilament that can be dyed with basic dye as a yarn of the back surface tissue By different from each other it is characterized in that the suede-like warp knitted paper with different colors on the front and back.

Specifically, the backside tissue yarn is composed of a basic dyed polyester multifilament or a polyamide multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier. The backing yarns give shape stability to the warp knitted paper, and at the same time, the surface and backsides can be different from each other. The total fineness is preferably 30-80 denier. If the single yarn fineness of the back surface tissue yarn is less than 1 denier, the morphological stability of the warp knitted fabric is lowered.

The basic dye-type polyester multifilament is composed of copolymerized polyester in which isophthalic acid component containing polysulfone group or polyalkylene oxide or the like is copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate which is a main component such as 5-sodium sulfonisophthalic acid.

The content of the surface tissue yarn during the knitting is preferably 40-87% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If the content is less than 40% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric may be poor. If the content is more than 87% by weight, the content of the yarn of the back surface tissue may be relatively low, such as drape and mechanical properties.

On the other hand, the content of the back surface yarn is preferably 13-60% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If it exceeds the above range, the feel of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and the drape may be deteriorated.

In the present invention, the suede-like warp knitted fabric described above is a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component of polyester having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier on a 2-bar warp knitting machine as a surface tissue yarn, and a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier. Basic dyeing polyester multifilament or polyamide multifilament is used as the backside tissue yarn to knit two-layered warp knitted fabrics, and then primary raising to shrink the warp knitted fabrics by 35% or more in the width direction, and then continue. Heat-setting and shearing, continue to treat the sheared warp knitted paper with alkaline aqueous solution, elute the eluted components in the composite fiber, dye and dry, and finally reduce the width to 40% or more in the width direction, and then continue drying After the second warp of the warp knitted paper is prepared by sanding or brushing clean the surface pile.

The manufacturing method of the present invention is the first brushed in the state of the warp knitted paper as described above, using two different dyes in the dyeing process after the weight loss to dye the surface and back surface of the warp knitted paper with different colors, dyed light Characterized by the second brush again.

In the dyeing process, disperse dyes are used for surface dyeing of warp knitted paper, and basic dyes or acid dyes are used for back dyeing of warp knitted paper.

More specifically, when the backside tissue yarn is polyamide multifilament, an acid dye is used for backside dyeing of the warp knitted paper, and when the backside tissue yarn is a basic dyed polyester multifilament, the backside dyeing of the warp knitted fabric is performed. Basic dyes are used. As the dyeing method, any one method may be employed, such as a one-bath dyeing method or a two-bath dyeing method. It is preferable that the first brushing is carried out 4 times or more, the heat setting after the second brushing is performed at 120 ° C. or higher, and the shearing is performed about once.

The weight loss process of eluting the component eluted in the composite fiber with an aqueous alkali solution is preferably carried out for 30 minutes to 60 minutes in a 1% NaOH aqueous solution at 98 ° C., and dyeing is preferably performed at 120 ° C. for 10 to 60 minutes.

However, the present invention does not specifically limit conditions such as regular raising, heat setting, shearing, weight loss, dyeing, and the like.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention thus prepared is densely composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and is very excellent in touch and appearance. In particular, since the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of yarns having different surface textures and dyeing characteristics, the color of the surface and the back surface is differently expressed after dyeing to express the characteristics of the differentiated suede bath.

Suede-like warp knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in the touch and appearance is very useful as a material for women's clothing or artificial leather.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of the suede warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

Softness

Sensory tests by 10 experts indicate that 8 or more are judged to be soft, and 5-7 are judged to be soft, and 8 or more judges to be soft.

Drape property

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape. Separated by.

Lighting effect

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

·Exterior

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, 5-7 people judge that the appearance is good.

· Kyungsung

In the same economy, the economy is excellent when there is no recovery of the hourly expectation due to the defect of yarn at the speed of 500m / min, and the economy is normal when the recovery of the expectation per hour is 1-2 times. In the case of more than three times per hour, the canon was judged to be in poor condition, and the number of times for the maximum time was based on the operation of the expected expectations during the completion of the canon of the yarn wrapped in a branch of 9 kg. Calculated.

Fabrication

When knitting at the speed of 1,000 m / min in the same knitting machine, the knitting performance is excellent when there is no peak recovery of the hourly expectation due to the defect of yarn during knitting, and when the number of peaks of the hourly expectation is 1-2 times In the state of, when the number of battalions per hour was more than three times, it was judged that the knitting ability was poor, and the number of batters was calculated as the average number of battalions per hour based on the operating conditions of the expected expectations when operating for one day.

Raising

When brushing at the speed of 15m / min in the same brushing machine, good brushing is possible when 8 brushings are completed, and brushing is good when good brushing is completed with 10 brushings. It was determined that the raising was poor.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. But. The present invention is not limited by the following examples.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness is used as the yarn for the surface texture, and polyamide 6 multifilament (total fineness 50 denier) with the single yarn fineness is used as the yarn for the backside tissue, and the density is 28C / CM. It is made of warp knitted paper. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to 37% shrinkage, and then shearing → heat fixation → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [using disperse dyes and acid dyes, by two-bath dyeing method Implementation] → After drying, shrink the warp knitted paper by 50% in the width direction, and then dry the warp knitted paper after second brushing and sand it to manufacture suede warp knitted paper with a pile length of 0.2 mm It is shown in Table 1 to evaluate.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fibers with a total densities of 75 deniers are used as the yarn for the surface texture, and the single yarn fineness is 28C / CM with 1 denier polyamide 66 multifilament (50 fine deniers) as the yarn for the backside tissue. Manufactured by letter. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 31% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to be 40% shrinkage, and then shearing → heat fixation → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [disperse dye and acid dye using one bath dyeing method ] → After drying, shrink the warp knitted paper by 50%, and then buff the dried warp knitted paper after the second raising, prepare suede warp knitted paper with 0.2mm pile length on the surface, and evaluate the properties. 1 is shown.                     

Example 3

Elastomeric composite fibers having polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, but having a fiber forming component fineness of 0.008 denier and a total fineness of 75 denier after eluting the eluting component A basic dyeable polyester multifilament (copolyester copolymerized with 5-mol sulfonisophthalic acid 5 mol% copolymer) having a single yarn fineness of 2.5 denier and a total fineness of 50 denier is used as a yarn for the surface tissue. To prepare a warp knitted paper having a density of 28 bones / cm. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn in the warp knitted fabric is 45% by weight: 55% by weight. After raising the warp knitted fabric 40% shrinkage, and then shearing → heat fixation → weight loss (treated in caustic soda solution at 1% concentration and 98 ℃ for 30 minutes) → dyeing (1 bath using dispersant and basic dye) Dyeing) → dry and shrink 50% of the knitted fabrics, and then dry the knitted knitted fabrics after second brushing to make suede-shaped knitted fabrics with 0.2mm pile length, The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Basic dyeable polyester multifilament having 3 denier single yarn fineness and 60 denier total fine yarn (5 mole% of polyalkenene oxide component) Copolymerized copolyester) as a yarn of a backside structure to prepare a warp knitted fabric having a density of 28 C / CM. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to 37% shrinkage, and then shearing → heat fixation → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [by two-bath dyeing method using dispersant and basic dye Implementation] → After drying, shrink the warp knitted fabric by 50%, and then, after second brushing the dried warp knitted fabric, buff it to prepare suede warp knitted fabric with 0.2mm pile length on the surface, and evaluate the physical properties thereof. Table 1 shows.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness is used as the yarn for the surface texture, and the density of 28C / CM is made with regular polyester multifilament having the single yarn fineness and 0.5 denier and the total fineness as the yarn for the backside. It is made of warp knitted paper. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 48% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp knitting paper 40% shrinkage, and then heat setting → shearing → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → drying the warp knitted paper in the width direction After shrinking by 48%, the dried warp knitted fabric was subsequently brushed and sanded to prepare a suede warp knitted fabric having a pile length of 0.4 mm, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elastomeric composite fiber with 75 denier and total fineness is used as the yarn for surface texture, and regular polyester multifilament with 5 single denier fineness and 100 denier total yarn is used as the yarn for backside tissue and has a density of 28C / CM. It is made of warp knitted paper. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 42% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp knitted fabric so as to shrink by 37%, heat setting → shearing → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → drying the warp knitted paper in the width direction After shrinking 48%, and subsequently brushed and dried after the second hand brushed brush to prepare a suede warp knitted paper with a length of 0.4mm piled on the surface, the physical properties are shown in Table 1 to evaluate the properties.

division Example Comparative Example One 2 3 4 One 2 Soft castle Great Great Great Great usually Bad Drape castle Great Great Great Great Bad Great Light effect Great Great Great Great Great Bad Exterior Great Great Great Great usually usually Kyung Sung Jeong Great Great Great Great Great Great Organization Great Great Great Great usually Great Raising castle Great Great Great Great usually usually Surface and backside color disparity disparity disparity disparity Similarity Similarity

The suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention has a short file length and a high hair density, which is excellent in touch and at the same time, a difference in the dyeing characteristics of the yarns on the front and back surfaces is expressed to differentiate the appearance. As a result, the suede warp knitted fabric of the present invention is useful for clothing and the like by expressing a unique dyeing effect due to the color difference between the front and back surfaces. In addition, the production method of the present invention can produce the suede warp knitted paper with good processability.

Claims (7)

The surface structure is composed of polyester microfiber with a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier, and the back surface is composed of basic dyed polyester multifilament or polyamide multifilament with a single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier, and the polyester Suede warp knitted paper with different dyeing characteristics of the surface and the back side, characterized in that the hairs of the ultra-fine yarns are piled. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the total fineness of the basic dyed polyester multifilament and the nylon multifilament is 30 to 80 denier. 2. The surface and backside dyeing properties according to claim 1, wherein the basic dyed polyester multifilament is a copolymer polyester obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid or polyalkylene oxide containing a metal sulfone group in polyethylene terephthalate, which is a main component. Different suede warp letters. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the suede warp knitted fabric is dyed with a disperse dye and a basic dye or a disperse dye and an acid dye. The suede warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the length of the piled hair on the surface is 0.1-0.3 mm. If the composite fiber composed of the fiber-forming component and the eluting component of the polyester having a single yarn fineness of 0.001-0.05 denier is the surface tissue yarn, the basic dyed polyester multifilament or the polyamide multifilament having the single yarn fineness of 1-3 denier After using each of the tissue yarns in the two-bar warp knitting machine to segregate the warp knitted paper, the prepared warp knitted dough is subjected to the first brushing to shrink more than 35% in the width direction, and then continue to set heat, shearing, The weight loss (removal of the elution component in the composite fiber), dyeing and drying to shrink the warp knitted paper by more than 40% in the width direction, and then continue to sand and brush the dried warp knitted after secondary brushing A method for producing suede warp knitted paper with different dyeing properties on the back side. The suede bath according to claim 6, wherein the weight-reduced warp knitted paper is dyed by the same or two-bath dyeing method using a disperse dye and a basic dye or a disperse dye and an acid dye. Method for preparing warp knitted paper.