KR20010044096A - A warp knit having an excellent touch, and two-tone effect, and a process of preparing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A process for preparing the title fabric having touch feeling, external properties, drape properties, and shrinkage without lowering warping property and knitting property by good processability is provided, thereby producing a warp knitted fabric useful for clothing material for women. CONSTITUTION: This warp knitted fabric is characterized in that it comprises a three layered structure containing surface texture, medium texture and backing texture, wherein the surface texture is synthetic fiber yarn having a short yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier, the medium texture is spandex elastic yarn and the backing texture is ultrafine yarn having a short yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier. The weight ratio of the surface texture yarn, the medium yarn and the backing texture yarn in the processing warp knitted fabric is 10 to 40% by weight: 3 to 20% by weight:40 to 87% by weight.

Description

A warp knit having an excellent touch, and two-tone effect, and a process of preparing the same}

The present invention relates to a warp knit having excellent tactile and two-tone effects and a method of manufacturing the same. The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric and a method for manufacturing the same, which are useful as a material for women's clothing, because the tissue is very dense and soft, and has excellent two-tone effect upon dyeing.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch, and thus, research on the commercialization of the ultra-fine fibers is very active. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers that can be manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the warp knitted fabrics also have poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to warp knitted fabrics using a composite fiber having a level of 0.05 denier or less after dissolution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the elution component is eluted during the post-processing step for the ultra-fine There is a problem that the tissue density of the fabric is loose and the appearance of the fabric is poor, and the two-tone effect can not be expressed during dyeing.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, as described above, commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a warp knitted paper with good tactile properties and knitting properties that is excellent in the touch and two-tone effect and suitable for the material such as women's clothing.

The present invention is excellent in the touch, appearance, drape and two-tone effect is to provide a light knit useful as a women's clothing material. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method capable of producing the warp knitted paper with good process passability, that is, without deterioration of the hardness and knitting properties.

1 is a graph for measuring the elongation recovery rate of the warp knitted using the instron in the present invention.

※ Code explanation for main part of drawing

L: Extension length (calculated value) L ₁ : Free extension length n: Number of measurements

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in tactile feel, appearance, two-tone effect and drape and a method for producing the same.

More specifically, the present invention is a three-layered structure in which an intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the backside tissue, and the surface tissue is composed of synthetic fiber yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier, and the intermediate tissue is composed of spandex elastic yarn. , The back surface tissue is composed of ultra-fine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 ~ 0.09 denier relates to a warp knitted fabric excellent in touch, characterized in that the elongation recovery rate of the warp direction and the weft (course) direction is 25 to 60%.

In addition, the present invention is the back surface of a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component of polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier as a surface tissue yarn, spandex elastic yarn as an intermediate tissue yarn, and a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier The present invention relates to a method for producing a soft woven knit fabric, which is used as a tissue yarn, and then knitted, followed by preheating, weight loss (removal of the eluted component from the composite fiber), dyeing, buffing, and final heat treatment. .

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors pay attention to the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design is very important for producing polyester warp knitted fabrics which are very soft and have excellent two-tone effect as well as excellent process passability such as natural suede. The present invention has been completed.

The present invention uses a microfiber yarn during the knitting process as a backing yarn instead of a surface tissue yarn, randomly protrudes between the synthetic fiber yarn of the surface tissue yarn on the final product to express a good two-tone effect and touch during dyeing It is characterized by.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier at the time of knitting, as a yarn of the back surface tissue. When the composite fibers are eluted after removal of the eluted component, only the fiber-forming components remain, and their single yarn fineness is 0.03 to 0.09 denier. If the single yarn fineness of the back surface yarn exceeds 0.09 denier, the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. If the yarn is less than 0.03 denier, the touch is easily eliminated by soft termination or friction. Or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolyzability as the fiber forming component of polyester and the eluting component of the composite fiber used as the yarn of the back surface structure. The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually 20 to 40% by weight.

In order to improve the feel of the warp knitted fabric, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the backing tissue so that they protrude to the surface. In order to increase the fiber density of the backing tissue, the method of reducing the polymer use rate of the eluting component in the composite fiber may be reduced at the manufacturing stage of the yarn. There is a limit to increasing the density even if it decreases.

Therefore, the present invention is characterized by using a spandex elastic yarn as the yarn of the intermediate tissue, to increase the fiber density of the intermediate tissue by their shrinkage. The intermediate tissue yarn has a good shrinkage property, thereby increasing the fiber density of the backing tissue on the final processed paper to protrude them to the surface, thereby improving the feel of the warp knitted fabric, and providing the stretch knit with good elasticity and resilience. The total denier of the spandex is preferably 30 to 90 denier.

Next, synthetic fibers having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier during the knitting process, more preferably, polyester yarn is used as the yarn for the surface structure. If the single yarn fineness is less than 1 denier, the drape property of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if it exceeds 5 denier, the regularity, the knitting property, etc. worsen. The surface tissue yarn serves to impart mechanical stability and form stability of warp knitted fabric, and for example, polyester yarns of 50 denier / 24 filaments are used.

When knitting, the content of the back surface yarn is preferably 40 to 87% by weight based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper. If the content is less than 40% by weight, there is a risk that the warp knitted fabric may be poor. If the content is more than 87% by weight, the content of surface tissue yarns and intermediate tissue yarns may be relatively low, and thus drape and mechanical properties may be degraded.

On the other hand, the content of the surface tissue yarn and the intermediate tissue yarn is preferably 10 to 40% by weight and 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed warp knitted paper, respectively. If it exceeds the above range, the touch of the warp knitted fabric may be lowered, and if it is less than the above range, the shape stability and drape may be lowered. In particular, when the amount of surface tissue yarn used is too high or dense, the microfiber yarn, which is a back tissue yarn, cannot protrude to the warp knit surface, resulting in poor tactile and two-tone effects.

In the present invention, the warp knitting paper prepared as described above is subjected to preheating and alkaline weight loss treatment as in the conventional method, without removing the eluted component from the composite fiber, dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment. Maintaining the density of the processed paper at 40 to 80 copies / inch is preferable for the appearance of tactile and two-tone effects.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention prepared as described above is densely composed of ultrafine yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier and randomly protrudes between surface tissues, thereby providing excellent tactile and two-tone effects. In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of spandex elastic yarn having good elasticity, so that the microfiber density of the back tissue becomes more dense, and the recovery rate in the warp and weft directions of the warp knitted fabric is 25 to 60. Excellent in%

As such, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very useful as a material for women's clothing due to its excellent touch and two-tone effect.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

ㅇ Soft

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people are judged to be soft, and 5-7 people are judged to be soft, and 8 or more judges to be soft.

ㅇ Drapability

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape property, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape property. Separated by.

ㅇ Lighting effect

According to sensory tests by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

ㅇ Two-tone effect and appearance

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, when 5 to 7 people judge that the appearance is good, the case where 8 or more judges that the appearance is poor is classified as bad.

ㅇ Height recovery rate (%)

The overall measurement method was measured according to KSK 0815, but the proper elongation at constant speed was calculated using JIS L 1096. Hold both ends of the warp knitted fabric sample of length × width 10 × 15cm in Instron, stretch at constant speed until 100mm / min tensile speed of 750g load, leave for 1 minute without load, and return to original position. After stretching at constant speed, the process of leaving for three minutes with the load removed is repeated five times to measure the elongation length (L) and the free elongation length (L ₁ ). The free extension length (L ₁ ) is defined as the value obtained by subtracting the length after standing from the elongation length (L) after repeated 5 times of constant speed elongation to the original position (see FIG. 1). The elongation recovery rate is obtained by substituting the elongation length L and the free elongation length L ₁ in the following equation.

Elongation recovery (%) = × 100

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using the eluted composite fiber as the yarn of the backside tissue, using regular polyester yarn with 5 deniers as the surface tissue yarn, and using the 40 denier / 5 filament spandex elastic yarn as the intermediate tissue yarn, Compete. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 35% by weight: 10% by weight: 55% by weight. Thus prepared warp knitting paper (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) density of 60 books / inch Phosphorous warp knitted paper was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Dissolved composite fiber is used as the yarn for the backside tissue, regular polyester yarn with 3 deniers is used as the surface tissue yarn, and spandex elastic yarn of 40 denier / 5 filament is used as the yarn for the intermediate tissue. Compete. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 35% by weight: 5% by weight: 60% by weight. Thus prepared warp knitting paper (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) density of 55 books / inch Phosphorous warp knitted paper was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component, and the ultrafineness formed after eluting component is 0.05 denier. Using eluted composite fiber as surface yarn, regular polyester yarn with 0.5 denier fineness as intermediate yarn, and 40 denier / 5 filament spandex elastic yarn as backbone yarn Compete. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 55% by weight: 30% by weight: 15% by weight. Thus prepared warp knitting paper (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) density of 60 books / inch Phosphorous warp knitted paper was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the intermediate tissue, regular polyester yarn with 5 denier fineness is used as the surface tissue yarn, and 40 denier / 5 filament spandex elastic yarn is used as the yarn for the back tissue. Compete. At this time, the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 30% by weight: 60% by weight: 10% by weight. Thus prepared warp knitting paper (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) density of 60 books / inch Phosphorous warp knitted paper was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. The eluted composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and the warp knit dough is sectioned using a regular polyester yarn having a fineness of 10 denier as the yarn for the back tissue. At this time, the weight ratio of surface tissue yarn: back tissue yarn was 70% by weight: 30% by weight. Thus prepared warp knitting paper (190 ℃), weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes), dyeing [dispersant], buffing and final set (180 ℃) density of 60 books / inch Phosphorous warp knitted paper was prepared, and the physical properties thereof were shown in Table 1 below.

Property evaluation result of warp letter division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effects Two-tone effect Elongation recovery rate (%) Wale direction Course direction Example 1 Great Great Great Great 58.8 56.37 Example 2 Great Great Great Great 51.4 44.5 Comparative Example 1 usually Bad Great Bad 28.3 25.6 Comparative Example 2 Bad Great Bad Bad 33.9 31.8 Comparative Example 3 Bad Great Great Bad 10.4 13.0

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very excellent in tactile and two-tone effects and is useful as a material for clothing such as women's clothing. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention has a very good process passability such as hardness and knitting.

Claims (8)

It is a three-layer structure in which the intermediate tissue is located between the surface tissue and the back tissue, wherein the surface tissue is composed of synthetic fiber yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier, the intermediate tissue is composed of spandex elastic yarn, and the back tissue is single yarn It is composed of ultra-fine yarn with 0.03 ~ 0.09 denier, and has excellent elongation and two-tone effect of stretch recovery in 25 ~ 60% of warp and weft directions. The warp knit having excellent tactile and two-tone effects according to claim 1, characterized in that the ultra-fine yarn content constituting the back surface tissue is 40 to 87 wt% based on the total weight of the processed warp knit. The warp knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the spandex elastic yarn constituting the intermediate tissue has a content of 3 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted fabric. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the content of the synthetic fiber yarn constituting the surface structure is 10 to 40 wt% based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted fabric. The warp knit of claim 1, wherein the warp knit has a density of 40 to 80 copies / inch. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the superfine yarn and the synthetic fiber yarn are polyester yarns. Polyester yarns with single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 deniers as surface tissue yarns, composite fibers composed of fiber forming components and eluting components with single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 deniers as back tissue yarns, and spandex elastic yarns as intermediate tissue yarns, respectively. The method for producing warp knit having excellent tactile and two-tone effects, characterized in that the warp knit is used, followed by preheating, weight loss (removal of the eluted component in the composite fiber), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment. The method of claim 7, wherein the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn: intermediate tissue yarn: back tissue yarn 10 to 40% by weight: 3 to 20% by weight: 40 to 87% by weight is excellent in the touch and two-tone effect Method for preparing warp knitted paper.