KR100362035B1 - A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch and a method of manufacturing the same. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of ultra-fine yarns having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier, and the back surface is composed of high shrink yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier, and the length and warp direction of warp knitted paper. Characterized in that the elongation recovery rate of the letter (Course) direction is 8-30%. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention is characterized in that the pretreatment, weight loss, dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment after the napping treatment so that the shrinkage of the warp knitted fabric after the knitting is 40% or more. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly used in the manufacture of artificial leather and women's clothing.

Description

A warp knit having an excellent touch, and a process of preparing the same}

The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch and a method of manufacturing the same.

The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric useful for artificial leather or women's clothing material, etc., because the tissue is very dense and soft, but has excellent drape properties.

As the fiber becomes thinner, the bending stiffness decreases, so the fabric made of ultra-fine fibers has the advantage of having a very soft touch. Therefore, research on the commercialization of ultra-fine fibers has been actively conducted. In addition, the development of ultra-miniaturization technology of synthetic fiber has been the motive for greatly improving the commercialization of emotional materials for clothing.

In general, the ultra-fine fibers can be classified into three types: direct spinning, two-component split spinning, and two-component elution spinning. Fine microfibers that can be manufactured by direct spinning have a fineness of 0.3-0.5 denier and two-component split. The fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the type spinning method is 0.2 denier, whereas the fineness of the ultrafine fibers manufacturable by the two-component eluting spinning method can be manufactured to 0.01 denier or less.

When the ultra-fine fiber produced by the direct spinning method is applied to warp knitted fabrics, many filaments are dispersed, so the hardness and appearance are very poor, and the warp knitted fabrics also have poor surface feel and writing effect.

On the other hand, when ultra-fine fibers made by two-component split composite spinning method composed of nylon / polyester are applied to warp knitted fabric, nylon and polyester are incompatible with nylon and polyester due to the tension and friction that are received during the warp and weaving. Were isolated from each other and poor in hardness and knitting, and the appearance of the manufactured product was poor due to the limitation of ultrafine fineness.

In addition, when applied to warp knitted fabrics using a composite fiber having a level of 0.05 denier or less after dissolution prepared by the two-component elution spinning method, the elution component is eluted during the post-processing step for the ultra-fine There is a problem that the tissue density of the fabric becomes loose and the appearance of the fabric becomes poor.

Commercialization using ultra-fine fibers has progressed in various ways in the textile sector, but in the knitting sector, as described above, commercialization has not progressed due to various defects generated during canon and post-processing.

An object of the present invention is to produce a warp knitted paper with good texture and knitting, which is excellent in touch and appearance and suitable for materials such as women's clothing.

The present invention is excellent in the touch, appearance, draping and elastic properties, such as to provide a useful knitted paper for women's clothing material. In another aspect, the present invention is to provide a method capable of producing the warp knitted paper with good process passability, that is, without deterioration of the hardness and knitting properties.

1 is a graph for measuring the elongation recovery rate of the warp knitted using the instron in the present invention.

※ Code explanation for main part of drawing

L: Extension length (calculated value) L ₁ : Free extension length n: Number of measurements

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a warp knit excellent in touch, appearance, stretch properties and drape, and a manufacturing method thereof.

More specifically, in the present invention, the surface structure is composed of ultra-fine yarns having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier, and the back surface is composed of high shrink yarns having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier, and the length and warp direction of warp knitted paper. The present invention relates to a warp knit having excellent touch, characterized in that an elongation recovery rate in the direction of the letter is 8 to 30%.

In addition, the present invention is a warp knitted paper using a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component with a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier as a surface tissue yarn, and a high shrink yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 denier as a back tissue yarn, respectively. After knitting, the brushed fabrics were brushed to have a shrinkage of 40% or more, followed by preheating, weight loss (removal of the eluted components in the composite fiber), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment. It relates to a manufacturing method of.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present inventors pay attention to the fact that the selection and combination of materials to be applied in tissue design is very important for producing a polyester warp knitted fabric that is not only very soft and excellent in appearance but also excellent in process passability, such as natural suede. It was completed.

First, the present invention uses a composite fiber composed of a fiber-forming component and an eluting component having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier at the time of knitting, as a yarn for the surface tissue. When the composite fibers are eluted after removal of the eluted component, only the fiber-forming components remain, and their single yarn fineness is 0.03 to 0.09 denier.

If the single yarn fineness of surface tissue yarn exceeds 0.09 denier, the soft touch is poor and not only the quality but also the lighting effect is not expressed. If it is less than 0.03 denier, the touch is soft and the hairs are easily dropped by friction. Or entangled, resulting in poor appearance.

In order to improve the feel of the warp knitted fabric, it is desirable to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue. The method of increasing the fiber density of the surface tissue is one method of reducing the polymer use rate of the eluting component in the composite fiber at the manufacturing stage of the yarn, but this is not only due to technical limitations in yarn manufacturing but also the polymer use ratio of the eluting component. There is a limit to increasing the density even if it decreases.

The content of the eluting component in the composite fiber is usually within the range of 20 to 40% by weight. Therefore, the present invention is characterized by using a high shrink yarn as the yarn of the back surface tissue, to increase the fiber density of the surface tissue by their shrinkage. It is preferable to use co-polyester which is excellent in alkali hydrolysis property as polyester and fiber-forming component in the composite fiber used as yarn of surface structure.

Next, the high shrink yarn with single yarn fineness of 1 ~ 5 denier is used as the yarn of the back side tissue during the knitting process. If the single yarn fineness is less than 1 denier, the drape property of the warp knitted fabric is lowered, and if it exceeds 5 denier, the regularity, the knitting property, etc. worsen.

It is preferable that the high shrink yarn used as the yarn of the back structure has a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 50% and a heat shrinkage stress of 0.2 g / d or more. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 15%, the shrinkage rate is too small to increase the density of the superfine fibers, the surface tissue yarns, and thus the touch is degraded. If the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 50%, the density of the superfine fibers, the surface tissue yarns, is reduced. Can increase, but shrinkage becomes too high to control the processing width of the final fabric. In addition, if the heat shrinkage stress is less than 0.2g / d, even if the boiling shrinkage rate is high, there is a problem that does not overcome the stress between the tissue points does not occur enough shrinkage.

It is preferable to use a copolyester as said high shrink yarn. Bisphenol-A, polyethylene glycol, isophthalic acid, etc. can be used as a copolymerization component. However, this invention does not specifically limit a copolymerization component.

When knitting, the yarn of the back surface tissue is preferably 15 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. If it is less than 15% by weight, the drape of the warp knitted paper may be lowered, and if it exceeds 50% by weight, the touch may be lowered.

On the other hand, the surface tissue yarn is preferably to be 50 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed letter. If the content is less than 50% by weight, the touch may be degraded. If the content is more than 75% by weight, the drape may deteriorate.

The present invention is characterized by raising the dough shrinkage so that the dough shrinkage rate is 40% or more before the preheat treatment. The present invention after the napping treatment as described above to continue the preliminary heat treatment, caustic soda aqueous solution treatment (removal of the elution component), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment to produce a final product processed letter.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention thus prepared is densely composed of ultrafine fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.03 to 0.09 denier, which is excellent in touch and appearance. In addition, the back surface has a single yarn fineness of 1 to 5 deniers and is composed of highly shrinkable yarns having a boiling shrinkage rate of 15 to 50%, thereby making the density of the surface texture dense. As a result, the soft knit is excellent in touch, and the recovery rate in the length direction of the warp knit of the warp knit and the width of the warp knit is 8-30%. In addition, the highly shrinkable yarn constituting the back structure of the warp knitted fabric is present in 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the processed letter is excellent in drape.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very useful as a material for women's clothing or artificial leather because of excellent touch, appearance and drape.

In the present invention, the property evaluation method of warp knitted paper is performed as follows.

ㅇ Softness

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people are judged to be soft, and 5-7 people are judged to be soft, and 8 or more judges to be soft.

ㅇ Drape

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, 8 or more people judge that there is drape property, and 5-7 people judge that there is drape property. Separated by.

ㅇ Lighting effect

According to sensory tests by 10 experts, 8 or more judged that there was a lighting effect, and 5-7 judged that there was a lighting effect. The case is classified as bad.

ㅇ Appearance

According to the sensory test by 10 experts, when 8 or more people judge that the appearance is good, when 5 to 7 people judge that the appearance is good, the case where 8 or more judges that the appearance is poor is classified as bad.

ㅇ Boiling contraction rate (%)

It measures according to JIS-L-1073 method. ㅇ Elongation recovery rate (%) The overall measurement method was measured according to KSK 0815, but the proper elongation at constant speed was calculated using JIS L 1096. Both ends of the warp knitted fabric sample of length x width of 10 x 15 cm were held in an Instron Universal Testing Machine (hereinafter referred to as "Instron"), and then extended to a load of 100 mm / min tensile speed of 750 g. After calculating the length corresponding to 80%, it is allowed to stand for 1 minute after constant speed extension to the above length, and then it is restored to its original position, and it is left for 3 minutes with the load removed in 5 times. The free elongation length (L ₁ ) is measured with respect to the elongation length (L), which is accompanied by both the length change and the strong change, except for the so-called "stress-free transformation interval," in which there is no strong change according to the change in elongation length. The "no stress conversion interval" is generated due to the characteristics of the Instron equipment specimen fixed grip and the fabric properties, and is measured in the stretched state due to the fabric weight. In this section, there will be a section extending in the longitudinal direction but not accompanied by the overall change in strength. The free extension length (L ₁ ) is defined as the value obtained by subtracting the length from the extension length (L) after repeated 5 times of constant speed elongation to the original position. The elongation recovery rate is obtained by substituting the elongation length L and the free elongation length L ₁ in the following equation.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using eluted composite fibers as surface yarns, copolyester polyester yarns with 5 denier fineness and 28% boiling shrinkage (high shrink yarns) as backbone yarns with a density of 23C / CM. Manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to be 50% shrinkage, and then preliminary set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → buffing process → final set ( 180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knit, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Uses eluted composite fibers as surface yarns, copolyester polyester yarns with 3 deniers and 34% boiling shrinkage (high shrink yarns) as backbone yarns with a density of 23C / CM. Manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 31% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to 55% shrinkage, and then preliminary set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → buffing process → final set ( 180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knit, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elution type composite fiber is used as the yarn for the surface tissue, and coarse polyester yarn (high shrink yarn) with 0.5 denier fineness and 40% boiling shrinkage is used as the yarn for the backside tissue. Manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 48% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp knitted fabric to 50% shrinkage, and then preliminary set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → buffing process → final set ( 180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knit, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 2

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to give a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Using eluted composite fibers as surface yarns, copolyester polyester yarns with 5 denier fineness and 28% boiling shrinkage (high shrink yarns) as backbone yarns with a density of 23C / CM. Manufacture. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 26% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to 55% shrinkage, and then preliminary set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → buffing process → final set ( 180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knit, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Comparative Example 3

Polyethylene terephthalate as a fiber-forming component and 7 mol% of sodium dimethylene sulfoisophthalate is copolymerized to make a polyester copolymer polymer having excellent alkali hydrolyzability as an eluting component. Elution-type composite fibers are used as yarns for surface tissues, and regular polyester yarns with 20 deniers of fineness are used as yarns for backside tissues, and are made of warp knits having a density of 23 C / CM. In this case, the use ratio of yarn for backside tissue is 42% by weight based on the total weight of the processed letter. After raising the warp dough to 50% shrinkage, and then preliminary set (190 ℃) → weight loss (NaOH concentration 1% OWS, 98 ℃ × 30 minutes) → dyeing [dispersing agent] → buffing process → final set ( 180 ° C.) to prepare a processed warp knit, and the physical properties thereof are shown in Table 1 below.

Property evaluation result of warp letter division Softness Drape Castle Lighting effect Exterior Elongation recovery rate (%) Wall direction of warp letter Width direction of warp letter Example 1 Great Great Great Great 20.03 18.57 Example 2 Great Great Great Great 12.36 13.00 Comparative Example 1 usually Bad Great usually 19.77 17.23 Comparative Example 2 Bad Great Bad usually 15.46 14.77 Comparative Example 3 Bad Great Great usually 10.4 13.25

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is very excellent in feel, appearance and drape, and is useful as a material for artificial leather or women's clothing. In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention has a very good process passability such as hardness and knitting.

Claims (7)

The surface structure is composed of ultra fine yarns with single yarn fineness of 0.03 ~ 0.09 denier, and the back surface is composed of high shrink yarns with single yarn fineness of 1 ~ 5 denier, and stretches in the length direction of warp and weft Lightweight hand-woven paper, characterized in that the recovery rate is 8 to 30%. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ultrafine yarn is polyester. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ultrafine yarn content constituting the surface texture is 50 to 75 wt% based on the total weight of the processed warp knitted fabric. The warp knit of claim 1, wherein the content of the high shrink yarn constituting the back structure is 15 to 50 wt% based on the total weight of the processed warp knit. The warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the high shrink yarn is a copolyester polyester yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 15 to 50%. Knitting the warp knitted paper using composite fiber composed of fiber-forming component and elution component with single yarn fineness of 0.03 ~ 0.09 denier as surface tissue yarn and high shrink yarn with single yarn fineness of 1 ~ 5 denier as backside tissue yarn, respectively. , After brushing the shrinkage of the warp knitted fabric to 40% or more, and then preheating, weight loss (removal of the elution component in the composite fiber), dyeing, buffing and final heat treatment, characterized in that the method of producing a superior comfort knit. The method of claim 6, wherein the weight ratio of the surface tissue yarn to the back tissue yarn is 50 to 75% by weight: 15 to 50% by weight.