KR100469754B1 - Method for producing suede-like textiles using direct spun filaments - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric having excellent brushing effect while using a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn, a high shrink polyester filament, a directly spun polyester filament, and a highly stretched spandex fiber. Single-spun fine yarn with direct spinning fineness 0.1-0.4 denier polyester filament and 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage single yarn fineness with 2 ~ 5 denier high shrink polyester filament interlaced. Using a polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn of 0.03 to 0.3 denier, the surface yarn and the back side yarn are knitted using 20 to 50 denier spandex fibers, and then knitted, sheared, pre-set, weight loss processing, dyeing and buffing. A method for producing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric using a direct spun filament comprising The.

The suede-like microfiber knit fabric produced by the manufacturing method of the present invention is excellent in the volume by the shrinkage difference between the high shrink filament and the direct spun polyester filament, excellent in elasticity, soft touch and has a beautiful appearance. Can be used for clothing and furniture.

Description

Method for producing suede-like microfiber fabric using direct spinning filament {Method for producing suede-like textiles using direct spun filaments}

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric, in particular, the volume and elasticity due to the shrinkage difference between the polyester-based high shrink filament and the polyester-based filament directly spun, has a soft feel and has a beautiful appearance Suede-like microfiber knitted fabrics can be manufactured.

Generally, suede has a method of manufacturing suede through raising and shearing in the post-process after minimizing the ultrafine component yarns by alkali reduction of the island-in-the-sea yarn. Alternatively, the suede yarn is stapled and then spun through the spinning machine. Thereafter, there is a method of producing a suede through raising and shearing after dividing the island-in-the-sea yarn by alkali reduction after impregnating the polyurethane resin after forming the web state by needle punching. This prior art has a disadvantage in that it is difficult to uniformly reduce the usable polyester constituting the island-in-the-sea yarn by alkali reduction, and since there is a seaweed yarn on both sides of the front and back side of the knitted fabric, there is a disadvantage in which the nonuniformity of the touch occurs due to the uneven weight loss.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a method of producing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric having excellent elasticity and elasticity that can solve all the problems of the prior art as described above, and having a sense of volume, soft touch, and a beautiful appearance by a difference in shrinkage rate of the back side yarns. Let it be technical problem.

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors can solve the unevenness of the touch due to the weight loss deviation by using a yarn entangled with polyester filament and polyester high shrink filament through direct spinning in the process of manufacturing conventional suede In addition, it has been found that the volume can be improved due to the difference in shrinkage between both filaments.

Therefore, according to the present invention, in the method of producing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric,

Single yarn fineness directly spun with backside yarn is interlaced with 0.1 ~ 0.4 denier polyester filament and 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage single shrink fineness polyester filament with 2 ~ 5 denier. A polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier is used, and the surface yarn and the back yarn are knitted using 20 to 50 denier spandex fibers, and then knitted, sheared, pre-set, weight-reduced, dyed and buffed. Provided is a method for producing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric using a direct spun filament comprising a process.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The suede-like microfiber knitted fabric of the present invention is a middle yarn that connects the surface yarn using polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn and the back yarn using the interlaced yarn of the polyester-based high-shrink filament and the spun yarn of the polyester-based high shrinkage filament. It is a suede-like microfiber knit that gives elasticity while giving elasticity by processing such as drying, brushing and buffing.

The fiber used as the surface yarn in the present invention is a filament composed of an eluting component and a fiber forming component as a polyester-based islands and yarns. It is preferable that the said island-in-the-sea yarn uses polyester-type resin as a island component, and uses co-polyester-type resin from which a island component and solvent solubility differ as a sea component. Thus, when spinning, melt spinning with 24 to 40 spinnerets so that the total fineness of the POY yarn is 100 to 150 denier, and the POY yarn is aged at room temperature, and then stretched and combusted using a heater in a combustor. It is preferable to manufacture and use DTY company which is -90 denia. The weight loss rate, temperature, and time of caustic soda should be adjusted to maintain the weight loss ratio between 24 and 30% for easy dissolution during the subsequent weight loss process. In order to retain the characteristics of the suede fabric as the final product, the fineness after elution of the single yarn fibers of the surface yarn is preferably about 0.03 to 0.3 denier.

In the present invention, the back yarn may use interlaced yarns of directly spun polyester filaments and high shrink polyester filaments. The direct spun polyester filaments have a total fineness of 50 to 100 denier and single yarn by controlling spinnerets during spinning. It is preferable to make the fineness 0.1 to 0.4 denier. The high shrink polyester filament is preferably a 2-5 denia filament having a heat shrinkage of 20 to 30% at 100 ° C., which is drawotextured (DTY). The high shrinkage polyester filament should be controlled to be air entangled with the directly spun polyester filament at a density of 50 to 80 pieces / m. When there are more than 80 entanglements, the touch becomes hard and when the number of entanglements is less than 50 No effect of entrainment is manifested.

In the present invention, when the high shrink polyester filament entangles the directly spun polyester filament, the high shrink polyester filament in the high temperature setting process after fabrication of the knitted fabric is reduced in length at a high temperature to be located in the core part The spun polyester filament has a relatively low non-shrinkage rate (6-9%) compared to the high shrink polyester filament (6-9%), which is located on the shaeth part, forming an overall sheath-core shape, resulting in a bulky feeling It will form a structure having.

Therefore, the interlaced yarns form natural loops due to the difference in shrinkage between polyester filament and polyester-based high shrink polyester filament directly spun by the subsequent setting process, facilitating brushing process and good suede effect of fabric. Become.

In the present invention, it is possible to produce a knitted fabric by connecting the yarns constituting the surface yarn and the backside yarn with a good elastic spandex fiber. The spandex fiber plays a role of properly connecting the surface yarn and the backside yarn to serve to give elasticity to the whole knitted fabric. It is preferable that the spandex fiber used has a fineness of 20-50 denia.

In the present invention, the polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn is used as the surface yarn, and the backside yarn is a entangled yarn of the polyester-based filament and the polyester-based high shrink polyester filament, which is directly spun, and the spandex fiber is used as a middle layer by a warp knitting machine. Knit fabrics can be made from tricot tissue. The knitted fabric is brushed three to six times with a brush after finishing the knitting, it is preferable to perform a shearing (shearing) to even the surface. Thereafter, a set of 20 to 40 seconds is performed at 170 to 180 ° C. using a tenter in order to prevent wrinkles and shrinkage in the weight loss and dyeing process.

The knitted fabric is subjected to weight loss processing and dyeing processing, and weight loss processing is a process that plays an important role in determining the fineness of the island-in-the-sea yarn. In the case of knitted fabrics, in order to maintain shape stability and to facilitate the penetration of alkali, it is preferable to treat the reducing agent at 95 ° C. for 30 minutes using 3 to 8% by weight to adjust the reduction rate to about 25 to 35%. Do. If the weight loss ratio is less than 25%, the microscopic effect by weight loss does not appear properly, and the texture unique to the yarn cannot be expressed.If the weight loss exceeds 35%, the appearance stability and product strength may be reduced due to the deterioration of shape stability due to excessive weight loss. It causes a drop and the like, and the elasticity of the knitted fabric is insufficient. After weight loss, neutralize with acetic acid to make dyeing smooth in the next process.

Dyeing of this knitted fabric can be done using a high fastness dye. It is preferable to use weak cationic softeners and silicone softeners to promote brushing and soft touch after dyeing. Padding them with mangles using antistatic agents and water-soluble polyurethane resins to adjust the pick-up rate between 90 to 100% and between 180 to 190 ° C. The medium is set for 20 to 40 seconds. After that, it is preferable to apply the late hairs two to three times and to evenly coat the hair with a buffing machine. After raising and buffing, the final setting is made by setting the fabric whose width was reduced at the time of raising. At this time, it is preferable to set the temperature for 20 to 30 seconds while lowering the temperature from 180 ° C. to 80 ° C. for each chamber. At this time, if the temperature is higher than the middle setting, the touch may be hard, so care should be taken in adjusting the temperature and time. It is desirable to adjust the overfeed rate when setting in the tenter so that the final finished product can be 350-450 g / yd.

In the following examples, non-limiting examples of producing suede-like microfiber knit fabrics using polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarns, high shrink polyester-based filaments, directly spun polyester-based filaments, and spandex fibers are given.

Example 1

Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) island-in-the-sea yarn with a final fineness of 0.06 denier is used as surface yarn, 40 denia spandex fiber is used as intermediate yarn, and PET yarn filament with 0.3 denier single yarn fineness and total fineness 65 denier High shrink PET filament (DTY) with a single yarn of 2.5 denier and a total of 30 denier is interlaced to 60 interlacing water per meter, and is used as a backside yarn to make light gauges with a Smith gauge of 32 gauge 105 inches. The warp knitted paper prepared in this way was brushed four times with a brush in the brushing machine, sheared, and pre-set in a tenter for 25 seconds at 180 ° C., and then treated with a 5% caustic soda at a high-soft weight loss machine for 15 minutes at 90 ° C. to reduce the loss rate. The weight loss was reduced to 27-30%, neutralized with acetic acid, and stained with a high pressure dyeing machine. Thereafter, an intermediate setting at 185 ° C. for 20 seconds is performed to prevent the antistatic agent, the cationic softener, and the water-soluble polyurethane resin at a pickup rate of 100%. Thereafter, brushed twice, buffed, and the final setting was performed at 170 ° C. for 20 seconds to prepare a final finished product at 410 g / yd.

As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to give a soft touch and elasticity due to the use of spandex fiber, which is not seen in the existing artificial suede and nonwoven suede, and in particular, polyester filament and high shrink polyester directly spun with a backside yarn By using the interlacing yarn of the filament of the filament has the advantage of producing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric having excellent elasticity, soft touch and beautiful appearance by enhancing the volume by the shrinkage difference of both filaments.

Claims (2)

In the manufacturing method of suede-like microfiber knit fabric, Single yarn fineness directly spun with backside yarn is interlaced with 0.1 ~ 0.4 denier polyester filament and 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage high shrinkage polyester filament with 2 ~ 5 denier. A polyester-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a fineness of 0.03 to 0.3 denier is used, and the surface yarn and the back yarn are connected and knitted using 20 to 50 denier spandex fibers, followed by brushing, shearing, presetting, weight reduction, dyeing and buffing. Method for producing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric using a direct spinning filament comprising a step. delete