KR101238772B1 - Process Of Producing Suede-like Nylon Microfilament Textiles - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like nylon microfiber knitted fabric, and more specifically, a nylon island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.09 denier after elution and a single yarn fineness of 2.0 to 4.0 denier having a specific shrinkage of 20 to 30%. By using circular knitting or warp knitted fabric with shrink texture filament's drawotextile yarn through reduction process, heat treatment, weight loss, dyeing, post-treatment, brushing / buffing, final setting Yet, it is possible to provide a suede-like microfiber knit fabric having excellent soft touch expression.

Description

Process of Producing Suede-like Nylon Microfilament Textiles}

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a suede-like nylon microfiber knitted fabric, and more specifically, a high-quality suede-like nylon microfiber knitted fabric having excellent dyeing property and excellent anti-pilling property and color fastness using a nylon-based microfiber yarn of less than 0.1 denier. It relates to a manufacturing method of.

Recently, with the rapid growth of the economy, the consumer's living standard is improving, and the demand for ultra-light, comfortable, and human-friendly textile products is rapidly increasing. The amount of new synthetic microfiber materials that can meet the demand of high-performance textile products of consumers is also rapidly increasing.

Among these microfiber materials, artificial suede using a split type or a dissolving type microfiber has been spotlighted as a material suitable for the needs of consumers because it can express a soft touch that exceeds natural suede.

The microfiber yarns were mainly made of polyester at home and abroad among the new synthetic products. Polyester-based islands have excellent spinning and drawing workability and easy manufacturing of fine-grained filaments, but it is difficult to remove alkali components of island-in-sea components, and the properties of island components deteriorate during the manufacturing process of suede. There was this.

The nylon-based ultrafine yarn has been developed in practical use, but part of the 0.5 denier class, but is a material of direct spinning type or nylon / polyester split yarn type. In the case of direct spinning materials, the spinning process is difficult and the post-processing during the manufacture of suede is difficult and its use is limited to women's clothing.

On the other hand, the present applicant in the Republic of Korea Patent Application No. 10-2009-0107948 No. 1, the single yarn fineness of nylon-based islands with 0.1 to 0.3 denier and single yarn fineness of 20 to 30% non-shrinkage with high shrinkage polyester of 20 to 30 denier Patent application has been made for a method of manufacturing a suede-like microfiber knit fabric using a circular knitted fabric or a warp knitted fabric using a draw filament yarn of a system filament. In the present invention, it was possible to provide a high-quality suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric having excellent dyeing properties, excellent anti-pilling property and color fastness, but having suede-like properties.

However, in accordance with the demand of the new market, it has been proposed to provide a suede for use in high-quality apparel-sensitive materials with thin and soft physical properties.

Therefore, the present invention overcomes the problems of the prior art by using less than 0.1 denier nylon-based sea island while improving the dyeing fastness and dissolution problems while excellent anti-pilling and dyeing fastness and thin and smooth suede-like It is a technical task to provide a high quality suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric having physical properties.

Therefore, according to the present invention, in the method of producing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric,

After dissolution, the circular knitted fabric was knitted using nylon island-in-the-sea yarn with a single yarn fineness of 0.01-0.09 denier and drawotextile yarn of a high shrink polyester filament with a single yarn fineness of 2.0-4.0 denier having a specific shrinkage of 20-30%. Provided is a method for producing a suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric, characterized in that the reduction process, the first heat treatment, weight loss, dyeing, post treatment, second heat treatment, brushing / buffing, and final setting.

Moreover, according to this invention, in the manufacturing method of a suede-like microfiber knit fabric,

The back side yarn uses nylon general yarn, and the surface yarn uses nylon island-in-the-sea yarn with single yarn fineness of 0.01 ~ 0.09 denier after elution, and high shrink polyester filament with single yarn fineness of 2.0 ~ 4.0 denier with 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage. Knitting, knitting, then shrinking, first heat treatment, weight loss, second heat treatment, brushing / buffing, third heat treatment, dyeing, post treatment, fourth heat treatment, brushing / buffing, final setting A method for producing a suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric is provided.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the suede-like microfiber knit fabric of the present invention, a circular knitted fabric is knitted using a drawotextile yarn in which a nylon-based island-in-the-sea yarn and a 20-30% high shrink polyester filament are processed by complex processing, or the drawotextile yarn is used as a surface yarn. Knitting a warp knitted fabric using nylon-based plain yarn as a backside yarn and then manufacturing it through a reduction process, heat treatment, weight loss, dyeing, post-treatment, brushing / buffing, and final setting process to facilitate post-processing such as dyeing, and soft touch. It provides a suede-like microfiber knit fabric with excellent expression.

In the case of circular knitted fabric, nylon island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01-0.09 denier after elution and drawotextile yarn of high shrink polyester filament of 2.0-4.0 denier having a single shrinkage of 20-30% Knitting Knitting

The circular knitted fabric of the suede-like microfiber knitted fabric of the present invention uses the above-mentioned nylon microfiber yarn and the drawotextile yarn of the high shrink polyester filament, and the high shrink polyester filament is the same as the general yarn when knitting. Although it exhibits physical properties but encounters hot water during refining and dyeing processes, filament with 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage ratio is used as a yarn that exhibits high shrinkage properties.It has more than twice the non-shrinkage rate compared to general polyester filaments. As a result, it is possible to form a natural loop by the difference of shrinkage degree with nylon-based seaweed yarn by the subsequent shrinkage process, and to facilitate the raising process and the suede effect of the fabric. Circular knitting (CIRCULAR KNIT) is a circular knitting of the drawotextile yarn is knitted by adjusting the gauge to dough weight 200 ~ 400g / YD.

Nylon-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.09 denier after elution of the drawotextile yarn is generally very fine and excellent in the appearance of soft touch, but it is difficult to increase dye fastness in the process and unbalanced touch due to excessive weight loss during elution. This difficulty can arise. In the present invention, in order to effectively provide a suede-like knitted fabric containing nylon-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.09 denier, reduction and reduction conditions are specifically selected.

Thereafter, the circular knitted fabric is reduced in water at a reduction temperature of 90 to 110 ° C. for a time of 10 to 40 minutes to a reduction ratio of 10 to 20% in a course direction and a reduction ratio of 30 to 40% in a wale direction. Preferably, the temperature and time must be closely adjusted because of the nylon-based island-in-the-sea yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.09 denia after use in the circular knitted fabric of the present invention. If it is out of the reduction rate range of the course direction and the wale direction, the shape stability of the nylon-based islands and the yarns may be poor, so that cutting of the high shrink yarn occurs when raising, or the touch may be deteriorated. In the fabric knitting process, the tension in the course direction and the tension in the wale direction are different, so the reduction rate in the two directions may be different.

After the shrinkage process, the first heat treatment is performed at 150 to 190 ° C. at a speed of 20 to 30 m / min to impart morphological stability to the circular knitted fabric. Thereafter, the weight loss process is performed at 70 to 90 ° C. for 20 to 60 minutes, and a weight reduction rate of 15 to 30% in an aqueous solution of 10 to 20 g / l caustic soda. Elution leaves only the ultra-low degree of island components. Since the island component is very resistant to alkali in the weight loss process, no special measures need to be taken to prevent property degradation.

After weight loss, it is dyed with acid dye. In order to enhance the leveling effect, 1 ~ 2% o.w.f. It is good to add. In order to reduce color change after dyeing and increase washing fastness, it is post-processed under the condition of liquid ratio 1: 20 ~ 1: 25 at 70 ~ 80 ℃ for 10 ~ 20 minutes with acid fixing agent.

After the post-treatment, a second heat treatment for preparing napping buffing at a speed of 20 to 30 m / min at 150 to 190 ° C is performed. After the second heat treatment, brushing / buffing is carried out. In the present invention, since nylon yarns having a higher yarn strength are used as compared to the conventional polyester-based islands, the brushing may occur. The surface is raised 6 to 8 times, and the back side is raised 4 to 6 times.

After the napping / buffing, the final setting is performed at 160 to 170 ° C. and 20 to 25 m / min to complete the suede-like microfiber knit fabric of the present invention.

Another method for producing a suede-like microfiber knitted fabric of the present invention is a method of using a warp knitted fabric. First, nylon-based general yarns are used as the backside yarns, and nylon-based island-in-the-sea yarns having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.09 deniers after elution to surface yarns are 20 to 20, respectively. Single yarn fine yarns with a non-shrinkage ratio of 30% are knitted using drawotextile yarns of 2.0-4.0 denier high shrink polyester filaments.

Subsequently, the warp knitted fabric is reduced in water at a reduction temperature of 90 to 110 ° C. for a time of 10 to 40 minutes, at a reduction ratio of 10 to 20% in the course direction, and at a reduction ratio of 30 to 40% in the wale direction. However, the temperature and time must be precisely adjusted because of nylon-based islands and seams having a single yarn fineness of 0.01 to 0.09 denier after elution used in the warp knitted fabric of the present invention. If it is out of the reduction ratio range of the course direction and the wale direction, the shape stability of the nylon-based islands and yarns may be poor, so that cutting of the high shrink yarn occurs when raising, or the warp knitted fabric hardens. In the fabric knitting process, the tension in the course direction and the tension in the wale direction are different, so the reduction rate in the two directions may be different.

After the reduction process, the first heat treatment is performed at 150 to 190 ° C. at a speed of 20 to 30 m / min to impart morphological stability to the warp knitted fabric.

Thereafter, the weight loss process is performed at a reduction rate of 15 to 30% at 70 to 90 ° C. and 20 to 60 minutes in an aqueous solution of caustic soda 10 to 20 g / l. Elution leaves only the ultra-low degree of island components. Since the island component is resistant to alkali in the weight loss process, it is not necessary to take special measures to prevent physical property degradation.

In the case of using the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the second heat treatment is performed at a speed of 20 to 30 m / min at 150 to 190 ° C after the weight loss. And after raising / buffing before the dyeing step, the third heat treatment is performed.

After that, dyeing is done using acid dyes. In order to increase the leveling effect, 1 ~ 2% o.w.f. It is good to add. In order to reduce color change after dyeing and increase washing fastness, dyes are fixed in the condition of liquid ratio 1: 20 ~ 1: 25 at 70 ~ 80 ℃ for 10 ~ 20 minutes with acid fixing agent.

After the post treatment, the fourth heat treatment is performed at a speed of 20 to 30 m / min at 150 to 190 ° C. After the fourth heat treatment, brushing / buffing is performed. After the brushing / buffing, the final setting is performed at 160 to 170 ° C. and 20 to 25 m / min to complete the suede-like microfiber knit fabric of the present invention.

Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a high-quality suede-like nylon microfiber knitted fabric having excellent dyeing properties, excellent anti-pilling and dyeing fastness, and thinner and softer physical properties than conventional suede-based knitted fabrics by using a nylon-based island-in-the-sea yarn. It can be widely used for women's dresses and t-shirts.

1 is a SEM photograph before the weight loss of the circular knitted fabric of Example 1 of the present invention,
2 is a SEM photograph after reduction of the circular knitted fabric of Example 1 of the present invention;
3 is a SEM photograph before the weight loss of the warp knitted fabric of Example 2 of the present invention,
4 is a SEM photograph after the weight loss of the warp knitted fabric of Example 2 of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the following examples are given as non-limiting examples of the method of manufacturing the suede nylon microfiber knitted fabric of the present invention.

Example 1

Combined processing of nylon-based sea island yarn (NY 75d / 36fila (36 splits)) with single yarn fineness after dissolution and high shrinkage polyester filament (30/12) with single yarn fineness 2.5 denier with non-shrinkage of 20% To prepare drawotextile yarn (105d / 48fila) and feed it to the circular knitting machine to knit the circular knitted fabric, and then reduce the temperature to 100 ° C. in water for 15 minutes with a shrinkage rate of 15% in the course direction and the wale direction. The reduction process was carried out at a reduction ratio of 30%, and the first heat treatment was performed at a rate of 20 m / min at 180 ° C, and the reduction process was performed at 80% for 50 minutes in a solution of 15 g / l concentration of caustic soda at a reduction rate of 21%. After dyeing with acid dyes (1: 2 Metal Complex type; Black ACE 8.0% owf) under the condition of liquid ratio 1:20 for 40 minutes at 98 ° C., the post-treatment was performed at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes with 3% owf of acid fixative. After the second heat treatment at a rate of 20 m / min at 180 ° C, and finally set at a rate of 20 m / min at 170 ° C. Deujo a nylon microfiber knit fabric was prepared.

[Example 2]

Nylon-based general yarn (NY 75d / 138fila) is used as the backside yarn, and nylon island-in-the-sea yarn (NY 75d / 36fila (36-division)) having a single yarn fineness of 0.06 denier after eluting to surface yarn and single yarn fineness with 20% non-shrinkage rate After processing 2.5 denier high shrinkage polyester filament (30/12) to produce a drawotextile yarn (105d / 48fila) by multi-processing, and then knitting the warp knitted fabric by supplying the backside yarn and surface yarn to a knitting machine, At a reduction temperature of 110 ° C for 30 minutes at a reduction rate of 15% in the course direction and at a reduction rate of 35% in the wale direction, and the first heat treatment at a rate of 20 m / min at 180 ° C. After the weight loss process was performed at 80 ° C. for 50 minutes in a solution of 15 g / l concentration of caustic soda at a reduction rate of 15%, the second heat treatment was performed at 180 ° C. at a rate of 20 m / min. After raising, the third heat treatment was performed at 180 ° C. at a speed of 20 m / min, and for 40 minutes at 100 ° C., After dyeing with an acid dye (1: 2 Metal Complex type; Black ACE 8.0% owf) under a ratio of 1:20, the product was post-treated at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes with 3% owf of acid fixative, and 20 m / min at 180 ° C. After performing the fourth heat treatment at a speed of, brushing / buffing, and finally setting at a speed of 20 ° C. at 170 ° C., a suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric was prepared.

The physical properties of the prepared suede nylon microfiber knitted fabrics were tested as shown in Table 1 below, and the results are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

division Evaluation item Remarks Color measurement
K / S Use of colorimeter L * a * b * Use of colorimeter Product evaluation


Light fastness AATCC 16E 20hr Wash fastness AATCC 61 1A Friction fastness AATCC 8 Anti-pilling properties ASTM D 3512

Color evaluation K / S L * a * b * Example 1 19.4127 12.54 -1.13 -2.79 Example 2 28.2978 16.21 -1.62 -3.25

division
Daylight fastness
Wash fastness
Friction fastness Anti-pilling properties key Wet Example 1 4 4.5 4.5 4 4.5 Example 2 4 4.5 4.5 4 4.5

Claims (5)

In the manufacturing method of suede-like microfiber knit fabric,
After dissolution, the circular knitted fabric was knitted using nylon island-in-the-sea yarn with a single yarn fineness of 0.01-0.09 denier and drawotextile yarn of a high shrink polyester filament with a single yarn fineness of 2.0-4.0 denier having a specific shrinkage of 20-30%. , Shrinkage temperature 90 ~ 110 ℃ in water, 10 ~ 40 minutes in time to reduce 10 ~ 20% reduction in course direction, 30-40% reduction in wale direction, 20 ~ 30m / at 150 ~ 190 ℃ 1st heat treatment to be performed, 70 ~ 90 ℃ in 20 ~ 60g / L aqueous solution of caustic soda, 20 ~ 60 minutes reduction rate at 15 ~ 30%, dyeing, acid fixer at 70 ~ 80 ℃ for 10 ~ 20 minutes After-treatment with liquid ratio 1: 20 ~ 1: 25, second heat treatment for 20-30m / min at 150 ~ 190 ℃, brushed / buffing, final setting by 20 ~ 25m / min for 160 ~ 170 ℃ A method of producing a suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric.
In the manufacturing method of suede-like microfiber knit fabric,
The back yarn uses nylon-based general yarn, and the surface yarn is drawn from nylon island-in-the-sea yarn with single yarn fineness of 0.01 ~ 0.09 denier and high shrink polyester filament with single yarn fineness of 2.0 ~ 4.0 denia with 20 ~ 30% non-shrinkage. Knitting the warp knitted fabric using an Otex yarn, and then performing a shrinkage temperature of 90 to 110 ° C for 10 to 40 minutes in water to reduce the shrinkage to 10 to 20% in the course direction and to reduce the shrinkage to 30 to 40% in the wale direction. Reduction step, first heat treatment at 20 to 30m / min at 150 ~ 190 ℃, 70 ~ 90 ℃ at 20 ~ 60g / l aqueous solution of caustic soda, weight loss at 15 ~ 30% for 20 ~ 60 minutes, 150 ~ 2nd heat treatment, brushing / buffing, 20-30 m / min at 190 ° C., 3rd heat treatment, dyeing, acid-fixing agent, 20-30 m / min at 150-190 ° C. for 10-20 minutes at 70-80 ° C. : Post-treatment performed under the conditions of 20 to 1:25, 4th heat treatment performed at 20 to 30 m / min at 150 to 190 ° C., brushing / buffing, 160 to 170 ° C. 20 to 25 m / Suede crude method of producing a knitted nylon micro-fibers, it characterized in that the end cross-setting processes.
delete The method according to claim 1 or 2,
Method of producing a suede-like nylon microfiber knit fabric, characterized in that the addition of 1 ~ 2% owf acid bactericide in the dyeing process.
delete

Images