KR100460519B1 - Swedelike polyester circular knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a circular knitting suede-like fabric which is knitted and brushed without weight reduction by using a composite processing yarn mixed with a polyester microfiber yarn produced by melt direct spinning and a polyester multifilament yarn having high shrinkage. The polyester partially drawn yarn of the biaxially-retracted polyester partial stretched yarn manufactured using the conventional drawing-twisting device is a polyester air-treated yarn having a 0.2 to 0.5 denier and a drawn yarn having a single yarn fineness of 2 to 5 deniers. Knitting weight of the air blended yarn processed by using the apparatus is in the range of 160 to 300g / yard, characterized in that made by the normal post-processing, such as dyeing without weight loss processing.

Description

Polyester circular knit suede-like fabric {Swedelike polyester circular knit fabric}

The present invention relates to a polyester circular knit suede-like fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a circular knitted suede-like fabric which is knitted and brushed without weight reduction by using a composite yarn in which a polyester microfiber yarn produced by a melt direct spinning method and a polyester multifilament yarn having a high shrinkage ratio are mixed.

Polyester fibers have many advantages, such as ease of handling and cost advantages compared to other synthetic fibers, and are widely applied not only to medical use but also to industrial materials such as shoes and tire reinforcement materials. Despite these advantages, their compact molecular structure and composition have disadvantages compared to natural fibers in terms of touch and functionality.

Recently, attempts have been made to overcome these shortcomings by developing polyester fibers having functionalities such as microfibers, absorption, moisture absorption, heat generation, and heat storage, and various fabrics using functional polyester fibers have been developed. In particular, the development of artificial suede fabrics having environmentally friendly advantages by replacing natural suede fabrics using ultrafine polyester fibers has been steadily continuing. In the manufacture of artificial suede fabrics, island-in-the-sea polyester microfibers are generally used, and the single yarn fineness of the remaining island portion is about 0.1 denier after the portion is eluted through alkaline weight loss processing during the dyeing step. to be. Until now, suede-like fabrics using polyester microfiber have been reduced to about 20 to 30% during dyeing by using island-in-the-sea split or split polyester fibers by composite spinning. It was possible. This entailed the problem of environmental pollution due to the large amount of wastewater generated during the weight reduction process.

Artificial suede fabrics are generally manufactured in the form of fabrics or warp knitted fabrics, and have been recognized as high value-added fabrics by having a surface feel and appearance of natural suede level through brushed processing. The production of woven fabrics and warp knitted fabrics is described in detail in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. Hei 11-302942. These patents are accompanied by environmental problems due to wastewater generated when reducing alkali by applying island-in-the-sea microfiber. A method for facilitating the reduction of alkali is described in European Patent Publication No. 0056907, but this also does not ultimately avoid the wastewater generated during the reduction.

On the other hand, in the case of woven fabrics or warp knitted fabrics are superior to circular knitted fabrics, but in terms of elasticity is lower than the circular knitted fabrics, it can be said that the circular knitted fabrics have the best fit. Therefore, in addition to the advantages of the polyester fiber as described above, there is still a need to develop a woven fabric with excellent fit and the like.

An object of the present invention is to provide a circular knitted suede-like fabric using polyester fibers without undergoing a weight reduction process, by improving the fit of the garments compared to the textile and warp knitted fabrics, and solving the wastewater problem by weight loss. It is to provide a polyester circular knitting suede-like fabric as an environmentally friendly high value-added fabric.

The polyester circular knitting suede-like fabric according to the present invention is a polyester twist processing having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 to 0.5 denier produced by using a conventional drawing combustor for a polyester partially drawn yarn having a bi-shrinkage property produced by melt direct spinning. Knitting yarns with drawn yarns of 2 to 5 deniers with a single yarn fineness, using a common air blending device, have a knitting weight in the range of 160 to 300 g / yard, and are made by ordinary post-processing such as dyeing without weight loss processing. .

The polyester twisted yarn is a polyethylene terephthalate twisted yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 to 0.5.

The stretched yarn is a highly shrinkable polyester stretched yarn having a specific shrinkage of 10 to 25%.

The air blended yarn is a polyester processed yarn produced by air blended with entangled 80 to 200 / m.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples.

The polyester circular knitting suede-like fabric according to the present invention is a polyester twist processing having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 to 0.5 denier produced by using a conventional drawing combustor for a polyester partially drawn yarn having a bi-shrinkage property produced by melt direct spinning. Knitting yarns with drawn yarns with 2 to 5 deniers of yarn and single yarn fineness using a common air blending device are rounded and knitted in the range of 160 to 300 g / yard, and are made by ordinary post-processing such as dyeing without weight loss processing. It is characterized by.

The polyester false twisted yarn in the above is a polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 to 0.5.

In addition, another type of polyester drawn yarn other than the false twisted yarn is a highly shrinkable polyester drawn yarn having a non-aqueous shrinkage of 10 to 25%, and has a high shrinkage ratio compared to a conventional polyester drawn twisted yarn to undergo a process such as dyeing. While forming the micro-fine twisted yarn loop by the difference in the heat shrinkage rate and the above-mentioned twisted yarn, it is easy to manufacture the suede-like fabric by brushing.

The air blended yarn is a polyester processed yarn produced by air blended with entangled 80 to 200 / m. Specifically, the polyester air blended yarn used in the present invention is a polyester twisted yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.2 to 0.5 denier and a single yarn fineness having 2 to 0.5 denier produced using the polyester partially drawn yarn by using a conventional drawing twisting device. The drawn yarn which is 5 denier is manufactured using a general air blending apparatus. When the number of entangled yarns of the air blended yarn is less than 80 / m, there may be a problem that it is not preferable because a fabric having a tactile suede feel and a uniform appearance is not obtained, and in contrast, it exceeds 200 / m. In this case, the appearance may be poor, and the number of trimming lines may be poor, resulting in a problem in that productivity is reduced due to poor workability.

In manufacturing the circular knitted suede-like fabric of the present invention, a polyester air blended yarn is used to knit a circular knitting machine having a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and a number of needles per inch (NPI) of 28 to 160 to 300 g / yard. . If the knitting weight is less than 160g / yard, there is a limit to the densification of the circular knitting tissue due to heat shrinkage appearing during the dyeing process, the brushability is lowered, and there is a problem in the shape stability of the fabric. On the other hand, if the weight of the unprocessed paper is more than 300g / yard during knitting, the flexibility of the fabric is reduced due to excessive densification of the tissue due to heat shrinkage, worsening the fit.

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention will be described.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention and should not be understood as limiting the scope of the invention.

Example 1

The polyester semi-twisted yarn obtained by direct spinning is subjected to general draw twisting, and the polyester twisted yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.3 denier and the high shrinkable polyester stretched yarn having a specific shrinkage rate of 15% are interlaced using a conventional air blending device. The processed yarn was manufactured so that it might be 147 pieces / m and the fineness would be 100 denier. By using the obtained bishrinkable polyester processed yarn, a circular knitting machine having a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and a number of needles per inch (NPI) of 28 was knitted to have a weight of 250 g / yard. Through dyeing, ③ heat fixing, ④ brushing, ⑤ buffing, and ⑥ heat fixing, circular knitting suede-like fabrics were manufactured. As can be seen from the above process, the manufacturing process of the circular knitted suede fabric of the present invention has no weight loss processing, and is characterized by proceeding a brushing process after dyeing. The fabrics thus produced are rich and have a soft surface feel and elasticity in the longitudinal direction as well as in the width direction, thereby making it possible to produce a garment having excellent fit.

Comparative Example 1

The processed yarn was manufactured so that the island-in-the-sea polyester fine-fine twisted yarn obtained by the composite spinning and the highly stretchable polyester drawn yarn were 100 denier using a conventional air blending device. By using the obtained bishrinkable polyester yarn, a circular knitting machine having a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and a number of needles per inch (NPI) of 28 was knitted to have a weight of 300 g / yard, and then ① weight loss, ② dyeing, ③ Through the process of heat setting, ④ brushing, ⑤ buffing, ⑥ heat fixing, circular knitting suede-like fabric was prepared. As can be seen from the above process, the circular knitting suede fabric using the composite spun polyester microfiber can be manufactured with a rich, soft surface feel only through the weight loss processing in the manufacturing process.

Comparative Example 2

After using a biaxial polyester blend yarn of Example 1 to knit a circular knitting machine having a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and a number of needles per inch (NPI) of 28 to 350 g / yard, ① refinement, ② A circular knitting suede-like fabric was produced through dyeing, ③ heat fixing, ④ brushing, ⑤ buffing, and ⑥ heat fixing. Knitting weight of 260g / yard was very dense in structure and exhibited shrinkage characteristics by heat in post-processing to lose the unique elasticity of circular knitting, resulting in a stiff fabric.

Comparative Example 3

Using a biaxial polyester blended yarn of Example 1, a circular knitting machine having a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and a number of needles per inch (NPI) of 28 was knitted to have a weight of 150 g / yard. A circular knitting suede-like fabric was produced through dyeing, ③ heat fixing, ④ brushing, ⑤ buffing, and ⑥ heat fixing. The resulting fabrics lacked form stability and lost elasticity and did not have the rich touch of suede.

Comparative Example 4

In preparing the polyester air blended yarn of Example 1, a yarn having a entangled number of 70 / m was prepared. Then, using a circular knitting machine with a cylinder diameter of 30 inches and 28 needles per inch (NPI), the fabric was knitted to a weight of 250 g / yard, and then ① refined, dyed, ③ thermally fixed, ④ brushed, ⑤ buffed, ⑥ A circular knitting suede-like fabric was produced through a heat setting process. The prepared suede fabric was found to have a disadvantage in that it looks rough due to the lack of uniform brushing effect.

Comparative Example 5

In preparing the polyester air blended yarn of Example 1, a yarn diameter of 30 inches and a number of needles per inch (NPI) using a processed yarn having a non-shrinkage ratio of 8% of the other polyester drawn yarn other than the ultrafine twisted yarn. A circular knitting machine of 28 pieces was knitted to have a weight of 250 g / yard, and then the circular knitting suede-like fabric was manufactured by the following processes: ① refining, ② dyeing, ③ heat fixing, ④ brushing, ⑤ buffing, and ⑥ heat fixing. The prepared suede fabric was not only difficult to obtain a brushing effect, but also could not be obtained a uniform brushing effect.

The results of the Examples and Comparative Examples are summarized in Table 1 below.

Processing Paper Discrimination Results Reduction Processing / Reduction Rate elasticity Shape stability Fit Surface tactile Example 1 Nil /- ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ Comparative Example 1 With 20-30% ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ Comparative Example 2 Nil /- × ◎ × △ Comparative Example 3 Nil /- △ × ○ △ Comparative Example 4 Nil /- ◎ ◎ ○ × Comparative Example 5 Nil /- ○ △ ○ ×

* ◎: Very good, ○: Excellent, △: Normal, ×: Poor

Accordingly, according to the above, the circular knitting suede-like fabric made using the polyester air blended yarn according to the present invention provides a high value-added artificial suede fabric having a rich surface feel and elasticity in the length and width directions, and the fabric It can be confirmed that its weight is lighter than conventional islands-in-the-sea composite spun fabric, and thus it is suitable for various clothing materials such as women's casual wear. In addition, the circular knitting suede-like fabric of the present invention can be said to be a fabric that can adequately respond to the needs of consumers who emphasize comfort and comfort when worn together with the functional side of the recent textile fabrics.

Therefore, according to the present invention, there is provided a high value-added artificial suede fabric having a rich surface feel and elasticity in the length and width directions, and it is not necessary to reduce the weight during the dyeing process, so it does not undergo the weight loss process, thereby preventing environmental pollution by wastewater. It is greatly improved and the weight of the fabric is lighter than the conventional island-in-the-sea composite spun yarn, providing circular knitting suede-like fabric manufactured using polyester air blended yarn which is suitable for various clothing materials such as women's casual wear. It works.

In addition, the circular knitting suede-like fabric of the present invention can be said to be a fabric that can adequately respond to the needs of consumers who emphasize comfort and comfort when worn together with the functional side of the recent textile fabrics.

Although the present invention has been described in detail only with respect to the described embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations are possible within the technical scope of the present invention, and such modifications and modifications are within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (3)

Polyester twisted yarn having a single shrinkage fineness of 0.2 to 0.5 denier and a twisted yarn having a single yarn fineness of 2 to 5 denier produced by using a conventional drawing twisting device. Polyester circular knitting suede-like fabric, characterized in that the knitting weight is in the range of 160 to 300g / yard by circular knitting the air blending yarn processed using a common air blending device, and is made by conventional post-processing such as dyeing without weight loss processing. The method of claim 1, The polyester circular knitting suede-like fabric, characterized in that the drawn yarn is a highly shrinkable polyester drawn yarn having a non-aqueous shrinkage of 10 to 25%. The method of claim 1, The polyester circular knitting suede-like fabric, characterized in that the polyester blended yarn manufactured by blending the air blended yarn with interlacing water of 80 to 200 / m.