JP2019214814A - Spun yarn and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a functional denim-like woven or knitted fabric excellent in fastness and esthetic properties and capable of expressing a natural worn-out feeling inherent to a denim.SOLUTION: There is provided a spun yarn having a core sheath structure comprising two or more kinds of staple fibers, in which a core part comprises a polyester-based staple fiber a having a hot-water shrinkage of 10% or more and a staple fiber b having a hot-water shrinkage of less than 10% and a sheath part comprises the staple fiber b and the mass ratio of the polyester-based staple fiber a to the staple fiber b is 10:90 to 90:10 and the mass ratio of the core part of the core sheath structure to the sheath part of the core sheath structure is 10:90 to 70:30. There is also provided a woven or knitted fabric, in which the knitted fabric is obtained by knitting or weaving using the spun yarn and a part of the core part of the spun yarn comprises a staple yarn dyed with different colors from the sheath part.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a spun yarn and a woven or knitted fabric.

  Denim woven or knitted yarn, generally called jeans, is obtained by rope-dying a spun yarn of natural fiber typified by cotton with indigo dye, but the outer layer of dyed spun yarn is densely dyed. The core is usually dyed thinly.

  By performing secondary processing, wearing and home washing of sewn products, the cotton wool contained in the outer layer that is heavily dyed falls off, and the cotton wool whose core is lightly dyed or undyed is exposed. To reveal the unique natural unevenness of denim.

  On the other hand, since the dye dyed on the raw cotton contained in the outer layer easily falls off as described above, there is a problem in the fastness to friction, and there has been a problem that the development of dark colored denim is limited to infants and kids. The same applies to color denim, and the spun yarn used for color denim is usually dyed by rope dyeing using a sulfur dye. The spun yarn obtained by this dyeing also dyes the outer layer darkly, but the core part is lightly dyed. Therefore, a variety of colors can be developed using color denim, but there is also a problem in the fastness to friction.

  Therefore, for example, Patent Document 1 discloses a woven fabric woven with a spun yarn made of nylon hollow short fibers as synthetic fiber denim. Patent Document 2 discloses a woven fabric using a two-layer spun yarn in which a hollow fiber is disposed in a core portion and a cellulose fiber is disposed in a sheath portion as a warp. Patent Document 3 discloses a woven fabric of a different color dyed core-sheath yarn composed of a core yarn made of a synthetic fiber and a sheath yarn made of a natural fiber. Further, Patent Document 4 discloses a specific woven or knitted fabric containing a composite yarn having a specific boiling water shrinkage ratio containing an acrylic fiber and a polyester fiber, and mixing the acrylic fiber having a high boiling water shrinkage ratio to form a composite yarn. When wet heat treatment is performed, the highly shrinkable acrylic fibers in the composite yarn are thermally shrunk and aggregated, and the composite yarn is likely to have a core-sheath structure in which the core portion is mainly composed of acrylic fiber and the sheath portion is mainly composed of polyester fiber. It has been disclosed.

JP 2004-316003 A JP 2015-13024A JP 2006-322112 A JP 2017-89023 A

  However, the raw cotton used for the spun yarn used in the woven fabric disclosed in Patent Document 1 is made of a single material and does not express the natural unevenness of denim conventionally. Further, the spun yarn mixed with the core-sheath structure disclosed in Patent Document 2 or Patent Document 3 has a core-sheath structure, but it is difficult to obtain a complete core-sheath structure, and the core part (core component) is partially obtained. Since the fibers of the core appear in the outer layer, if there is a color difference due to the difference in dyeability between the fibers constituting the core and the fibers constituting the outer layer, the color of the exposed core fibers is exposed and surface defects Was sometimes Also in the composite yarn described in Patent Document 4, if the acrylic fiber having a high shrinkage rate of the core portion is heat-shrinked and mixed, only the fiber of the core portion is locally exposed to the surface, and the color of the fiber of the core portion is changed. If the color differs from the color of the raw cotton in the outer layer, a surface defect appears.

  The present invention solves the above problems and provides a spun yarn having a core-sheath structure, in which a denim-like woven or knitted fabric that does not impair aesthetics by being moderately exposed on the surface in a state where the core yarn is uniformly dispersed is provided. As an issue.

  The present invention for solving the above problems has the following constitution.

  (1) A core-sheath structure composed of two or more types of short fibers, wherein the core is made of a polyester short fiber a having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and a short fiber b having a hot water shrinkage of less than 10%. The parts contain the short fibers b respectively, the mass ratio between the polyester short fibers a and the short fibers b is 10:90 to 90:10, and the mass ratio between the core and the sheath of the core-sheath is 10:90 to 90:90. 70:30 spun yarn.

  (2) The spun yarn according to (1), wherein the polyester short fibers a and the short fibers b have different dyeing properties.

  (3) The spun yarn according to (1) or (2), wherein the short fibers b constituting the sheath include fibers composed of the same material as the short fibers b contained in the core.

(4) A type of short fiber exhibiting the highest hot water shrinkage among the short fibers constituting the core portion is defined as A (%), and the smallest hot water among the short fibers constituting the sheath portion is represented by A (%). The spun yarn according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein A and B have the following relationship, where the hot water shrinkage ratio of the short fiber showing the shrinkage ratio is B (%).
A ≧ B + 5

  (5) The spun yarn according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the polyester staple fibers a include side-by-side polyester staple fibers having latent crimpability.

  (6) A short fiber which is knitted and woven using the spun yarn according to any one of (1) to (5) and is dyed in a part of the core of the spun yarn with a color different from that of the sheath. Woven and knitted fabric included.

  (7) The woven or knitted fabric according to (5), wherein at least one elongation recovery rate in the weft direction is 15% or more.

  (8) The woven or knitted fabric according to (6) or (7), which has a rub fastness of 3rd or higher in both dry and wet conditions.

  (9) The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of (6) to (8), wherein the mixing ratio of the natural fibers is 50% by mass or less.

  (10) The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of (6) to (9), wherein a water absorption time by a dropping method is 10 seconds or less, and a diffusible residual moisture rate by a Kaken method is 30% or less.

  (11) The use of (6) to (10) as a denim knitted fabric or color denim knitted fabric for producing clothing selected from shirts, jackets, skirts, and pants having a W & W property of 3.0 or higher. The woven or knitted fabric according to any of the above.

  (12) A garment selected from a shirt, a jacket, a skirt, and pants, the woven or knitted fabric according to any one of (6) to (11) being included in a part thereof.

  (13) The garment according to (12), which has a W & W property of 3.0 or higher.

  The spun yarn of the present invention provides a denim-like fabric. Further, by using two or more types of raw cotton and using a spun yarn having a core-sheath structure, an effect which can be obtained only by rope dyeing in the past can be obtained by package dyeing or piece die. A material which is excellent in aesthetics, functionality, and dyeability, hardly wrinkles, and has good general physical fastness such as dimensional stability and friction fastness can be obtained.

  The spun yarn of the present invention has a core-sheath structure composed of two or more types of short fibers, and the core portion is a polyester short fiber a having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and a short fiber having a hot water shrinkage of less than 10%. b, and the sheath portion contains the short fiber b.

  As the polyester-based short fiber having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more, a short fiber made of a high-shrinkage polyester-based polymer or a side-by-side type polyester short fiber having latent crimpability is suitable.

  The high-shrinkage polyester polymer is not particularly limited as long as the boiling water shrinkage when it is made into fibers is within the range specified in the present invention. However, polyethylene terephthalate is used as a main skeleton, and isophthalic acid and 2,2-bis @ 4- ( Preferable examples include polyesters in which a copolymerization component such as 2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl @ propane is copolymerized to increase the hot water shrinkage. Further, a cationic dyeable polyester may be used, and a polyester dyeable to a cationic dye can be obtained by copolymerizing a dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate component and an adipic acid component. Preferable examples include cationic dyeable polyesters in which isophthalic acid and 2,2bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane are copolymerized to increase the hot water shrinkage.

  When such a high-shrinkage polyester short fiber is used for the core, the spun yarn is subjected to hot water treatment, contraction appears, and the spun yarn is taken into the core of the spun yarn. The surface exposure is moderately suppressed, and natural fading is developed, so that the aesthetics can be improved.

  The polyester short fiber having latent crimpability of the side-by-side type is a short fiber of a composite yarn obtained by laminating two kinds of polyester polymers having a difference in shrinkage or a difference in viscosity into a side-by-side type by composite spinning. May be used.

  When such a side-by-side type polyester staple fiber is used for the core, the spun yarn is subjected to hot water treatment to exhibit crimp, and the spun yarn is taken into the core of the spun yarn. The surface exposure can be moderately suppressed, and natural fading can be achieved, thereby improving the aesthetics.

  The side-by-side type polyester short fiber referred to herein preferably has a cross-sectional shape in which two kinds of polymers selected from homopolymers or copolymerized polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate are bonded. Things.

  Further, since one side bonded by the side-by-side type exhibits a form in which the skin of the other side is covered with a thin skin, that is, a so-called eccentric core-in-sheath type cross section, it exhibits latent crimping property. Polyester short fibers having a core-sheath cross section may be used.

  The hot water shrinkage of the fiber can be adjusted by changing the copolymer species of the copolymerized polyester or the copolymerization ratio. In the case of a side-by-side type short fiber having a side-by-side type latent crimping property, it can be adjusted by appropriately setting the type of polymer used and the difference in viscosity.

  The hot water shrinkage of the polyester staple fiber a is 10% or more as described above, but from the viewpoint that the polyester staple fiber a constituting the core component is taken into the core of the core after dyeing. It is preferably at least 15%, more preferably at least 20%. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but is about 40% from a practical point of view from an industrial viewpoint.

  The hot water shrinkage of the short fibers b used for the core and the sheath is less than 10%, but the larger the difference in the hot water shrinkage with the polyester short fibers a, the more the short fibers a are taken into the spun yarn. Therefore, the content is preferably 8% or less, more preferably 5% or less. A preferred lower limit is 2% from the viewpoint of yarn rigidity and toughness.

  The short fibers b can be arbitrarily selected from natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and semi-synthetic fibers.

  The polyester short fibers a having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and the short fibers b having a hot water shrinkage of less than 10% usually have different dyeing properties. Particularly, in order to increase the hot water shrinkage of the polyester-based short fibers a, by copolymerizing a copolymer component or by forming side-by-side type short fibers, the polymer constituting the fibers and the copolymer composition or fiber structure are used. This is because the polymer species is usually different from that of the short fiber b, and the dyeability is also different.

  In the present invention, the difference in dyeability means that when a different kind of fiber is dyed under dyeing conditions under which at least one kind of fiber can be dyed, a color difference appears between fiber types.

  In the present invention, when a spun yarn having a core-sheath structure is dyed under conditions that can dye the short fibers b used for both the core and the sheath, the dyeable short fibers b and the polyester-based short fibers a It is preferable that a color difference is developed. Among them, it is preferable that the short fibers b can be dyed more densely than the polyester short fibers a. Thereby, a more natural denim tone can be exhibited when the woven or knitted fabric is used. The term "color difference" as used herein means that when a spun yarn extracted from a product under natural light is observed in a state where it is decomposed into single yarns, the color difference is visually recognized.

  The hot water shrinkage of the short fiber having the highest hot water shrinkage among the short fibers constituting the core portion is defined as A (%), and the short fiber having the lowest heat shrinkage among the short fibers constituting the sheath portion is defined as A (%). When the hot water shrinkage ratio is B (%), it is preferable that the relationship between A and B is A ≧ B + 5. By doing so, when hot water treatment is performed in a yarn or cloth state, the high-shrinkage polyester-based raw cotton constituting the core component shrinks and is taken into the spun yarn, and surface exposure can be suppressed. In order to obtain a form with less surface unevenness, it is more preferable that A ≧ B + 10.

  In the present invention, the ratio of the polyester-based short fibers a and the short fibers b constituting the core (polyester-based short fibers a: short fibers b) is in the range of 10:90 to 90:10 on a mass basis, and is even higher. The ratio is preferably from 30:70 to 70:30 to enhance aesthetics.

  In addition, the core-sheath structure can be easily maintained by setting the ratio of the core portion to the sheath portion (core portion: sheath portion) of 10:90 to 70:30 on a mass basis. Further, the ratio is preferably from 20:80 to 60:40 in order to give the denim appearance and aesthetics more remarkably.

  In the present invention, by using the short fibers as described above in the above ratio, the polyester short fibers a and the sheath component, which are part of the core component, are different from each other when the fabric is dyed after being made into a woven or knitted fabric. It becomes possible to express natural denim tone by dyeing different colors.

  In the present invention, the core portion includes a polyester short fiber a having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and a short fiber b having a hot water shrinkage of less than 10%, and the sheath portion includes the short fiber b. Contains two or more types of short fibers having different dyeing properties due to different hot water shrinkage rates. As a result, even if the short fibers of the core are exposed on the surface of the spun yarn, the exposed core is a blend of polyester short fibers a and short fibers b. Since the exposure of the polyester-based short fibers a is smaller than when exposed on the surface, it is possible to suppress a decrease in aesthetics. In view of the above, the short fibers b used for the core portion and the short fibers b used for the sheath portion only need to have substantially the same dyeing property, and the fineness, fiber length, cross-sectional shape and the like are different from each other. It does not matter. If the materials constituting the fibers are substantially the same, the dyeability can be easily made substantially the same, so that the short fibers b used for the core and the short fibers b used for the sheath are substantially the same. It is preferably made of a material, and more preferably made of the same material. Here, the dyeability is substantially the same, even if the cross section of the spun yarn is observed with an electron microscope and the short fibers forming the sheath differ in the cross-sectional form or the fiber diameter of the short fibers b forming the core, When dyed in the same color, both can be regarded as short fibers b.

  In order to obtain a spun yarn having a core-sheath structure in the present invention, in order to obtain a spun yarn having at least a polyester-based short fiber a and a short fiber b, a core sliver and a sheath sliver using at least the short fiber b The method can be arbitrarily selected from a method of forming a core-in-sheath structure using both slivers in the drawing process and a method of silo spinning, MVS, air spinning, and the like, and a method combining the above may be used. In addition, slab processing may be performed.

  When adjusting the core sliver, it is only necessary to mix the polyester-based short fibers a and the short fibers b so as to have the above ratio, and to adjust the ratio between the core and the sheath, use both slivers. What is necessary is just to adjust so that it may become said ratio at the time of spinning.

  The spun yarn thus obtained can be dyed so that at least a part of the short fibers of the core has a color different from that of the sheath, so that it has a natural texture of denim and gives a woven or knitted fabric excellent in aesthetics. In other words, the spun yarn in the woven or knitted fabric knitted or woven using the above-described spun yarn contains a fiber dyed in a color different from that of the sheath portion in a part of the core of the spun yarn. Has a natural texture of denim and is a woven or knitted fabric having excellent aesthetics. In particular, since the core portion can be composed of a mixed color of the same color as the sheath portion and a different color, even if the short fibers b constituting the sheath portion fall off, the short fibers b are also mixed in the exposed core portion, so that wear is reduced. The polyester staple fibers a are exposed correspondingly, so that an excellent denim-like texture can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric.

  That is, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing the spun yarn.

  Above all, in order to provide easy care and wearing comfort, the spun yarn preferably contains at least 10% by mass of synthetic fibers, and more preferably 20% by mass or more.

  In order to provide good dimensional stability as a woven or knitted fabric, the mixing ratio of natural fibers is preferably 50% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less.

  When the mixing ratio of synthetic fibers is increased, the woven or knitted fabric is given a setting property by the heat treatment in the dyeing process, and it is possible to suppress the problem of shrinkage of the fabric during home washing and drying thereafter. Wrinkles are also provided.

  The anti-wrinkle property can be represented by a W & W (wash and wear) property index, and the W & W property of the garment (for example, a shirt, a jacket, a skirt or a pants) obtained by the above-mentioned design by the above-mentioned woven or knitted fabric is 3. Class 0 or higher is possible.

  When the mixing ratio of the natural fiber is set to 50% by mass or less, it is possible to impart a quick-drying property to the material. it can. The quick-drying property represented by the index of diffusible residual moisture content by the Kaken method can achieve 30% or less.

  The weaving process can be performed in the same process as that of a normal spun fabric. For example, as a loom that can be used, an innovative loom such as an air jet loom and a rapier loom and a normal loom can be sufficiently used and used.

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the above spun yarn can be used as a warp and / or a weft. When the spun yarn is used as one of the warp and the weft, the yarn used as the other yarn is not particularly limited, but by selecting a yarn having a different dyeability from the sheath component forming the sheath of the spun yarn of the present invention. This is a more preferable form because a natural denim expression can be obtained.

  Further, by using a stretchable synthetic fiber or urethane elastic yarn for the weft, a woven fabric excellent in wearability can be obtained.

  As the synthetic fiber having the stretch property referred to herein, for example, a long fiber in which two kinds selected from polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate are combined in a side-by-side type, or a nylon 6 and a nylon 610 are combined in a side-by-side type However, the present invention is not limited to these combinations, and synthetic fibers having high crimps subjected to false twisting may be used. Further, the urethane elastic yarn may be a composite yarn with a spun yarn or a composite yarn with a synthetic fiber filament.

  The knitted material of the present invention is not limited to the structure, and may be a structure arbitrarily selected from single circular knitting, double circular knitting, tricot, and double Russell.

  It is also possible to use the core-sheath spun yarn of the present invention and another yarn in combination to form a knit. It is preferable that at least one surface of the structure obtained by cross-knitting the other yarn is a structure in which only the core-sheath spun yarn appears. When the other yarn is exposed, the appearance is different from the appearance of the denim. Therefore, in the case of single circular knitting, a structure using plating, welt and tack, and the double circular knitting preferably include tack and reversible structure. The same applies to the tricot and the double Russell, and there is no limitation as long as only the main sheath / sheath yarn appears on one side, and a double warp knitting structure is suitably used.

  There is no particular limitation on the other yarn used above, but a more preferable form can be obtained because a more natural denim look can be obtained by using a yarn having a dyeability different from the sheath component of the spun yarn. It is.

  Also, by using a stretchable synthetic fiber or urethane elastic yarn for the other yarn, a highly stretchable knitted fabric excellent in wearability can be obtained. The synthetic fiber having the stretch property referred to here is, for example, a long fiber in which two kinds selected from polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyethylene terephthalate are combined in a side-by-side type, or a nylon 6 and a nylon 610 are combined in a side-by-side type. Long fibers are exemplified, but not limited to these combinations. The urethane elastic yarn may be a composite yarn with a spun yarn or a composite yarn with a synthetic fiber filament, or may be barely inserted alone.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be subjected to general processing steps. When a synthetic fiber is used as the sheath component of the spun yarn, it is preferable to add a hair-burning step. Synthetic fibers have higher strength than natural fibers, and if there are many fluffs of spun yarn, pilling problems are likely to occur as a product. In order to solve the problem of pilling, it is possible to remove the fluff of spun yarn by adding a fuzzing process, and when using polyester raw cotton as the sheath component, the texture is reduced by performing alkali weight loss after fuzzing Can be prevented from being cured.

  In consideration of the processing cost, the dyeing is preferably performed after the woven or knitted fabric is obtained. When dyeing after obtaining a greige machine, the dyeing equipment mainly includes liquid flow dyeing, air flow dyeing, beam dyeing, and jigger dyeing performed in the can, and the equipment for continuous dyeing performed continuously can be arbitrarily selected. Is possible. By dyeing the sheath component of the core-sheath spun yarn, it is possible to reproduce a denim tone. The core component does not need to be dyed, but it is also possible to dye it in a light color in order to obtain a natural denim-like color unevenness. The dyeing finish processing can be arbitrarily selected. Specifically, various functional processes such as a water-absorbing process, a water-repellent process, and a softening agent process may be performed, but it is more preferable to perform a water-absorbing process as a configuration of the present invention.

  After forming the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention into a sewn product, secondary processing may be further performed. In general, denim materials are often adjusted in color and texture by washing products, bleaching, laser processing, sanding, or the like, and similar secondary processing can be performed. In particular, the sanding process is a more preferable form because the core component can be physically exposed and a natural feeling of unevenness (wearing distressed feeling) can be obtained partially. It is possible to carry out any in-bath processing during product washing. For example, any post-processing chemical such as water-absorbing quick-drying processing can be selected.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has an elongation recovery rate, which is an index of stretchability, of 15% or more in at least one of the weft directions from the viewpoint of wearing comfort, and more preferably 20% or more. The upper limit is about 50% from the viewpoint of the feeling of thickness when worn and the manufacturing cost. In order to impart the above-mentioned stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric, in the case of a woven fabric, it is preferable to use a yarn having latent crimpability and / or a urethane elastic yarn inserted into the weft. Further, in the case of a knitted fabric, the warp direction and the weft direction mean the well direction and the course direction of the knitted fabric, respectively, but the direction having stretchability may be either the well direction or the course direction, and the yarn having latent crimpability may be used. Stretching as described above can be imparted by knitting and / or knitting the yarn into which the urethane elastic yarn is inserted.

  The friction fastness of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 3 or higher in both dry and wet conditions, and more preferably the friction fastness (dry rub fastness) in dry conditions is 3 or higher. . To adjust the rub fastness to the above range, depending on the fiber material to be dyed and the desired finish, the rub fastness is relatively good, and any of disperse dyes, cationic dyes, acid dyes, reactive dyes, and direct dyes can be used. This is achieved by selecting a dyestuff and processing an appropriate fixing agent in the usual range.

  Further, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a water absorption time of 10 seconds or less, more preferably 5 seconds or less, from the viewpoint of sweat treatment when worn. There is no particular lower limit, and it may be as close as possible to 0 seconds.

  In order to obtain such a woven or knitted fabric, a general water absorbing process may be performed after dyeing.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a diffusible residual moisture content of 30% or less by the Kaken method from the viewpoint of sweat treatment when worn and quick drying after washing, and more preferably 20% or less. There is no particular lower limit, and it may be as close to 0% as possible.

  In order to obtain such a woven or knitted fabric, the spun yarn preferably contains at least 10% by mass or more of synthetic fibers, and more preferably 20% by mass or more. There is no particular upper limit, and it may be 100% by mass.

  Further, the mixing ratio of natural fibers in the woven or knitted fabric is preferably 50% by mass or less, and more preferably 40% by mass or less.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in easy care properties. By using synthetic fibers in part, the morphological stability of the woven or knitted fabric is maintained, wrinkles after home washing are suppressed, and consumer handling becomes easier. If W & W, which is an index of the wash and wear property, is 3.0 or higher, wrinkles after home washing rarely cause problems. More preferably, it is 3.3 or higher.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, the mixing ratio of the natural fibers is preferably 50% by mass or less. In order to further improve the W & W property, it is more preferable that the mixing ratio of the natural fiber is 30% by mass or less.

  Since the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention thus obtained has a denim appearance, it is preferable as denim or color denim such as a shirt, jacket, skirt, or pants.

  The term “denim tone” as used above refers to a woven cloth (denim) -like appearance in which a warp made of cotton yarn dyed by so-called indigo and a weft made of undyed cotton yarn are twill-woven. The tone is a woven or knitted fabric having a denim-like appearance, which is a combination of a yarn having a color similar to that of cotton yarn dyed with indigo and a yarn that has not been dyed (or dyed at a very low concentration). . Color denim is a woven fabric in which a yarn dyed with a dye (mainly a sulfur dye) different from the dye used in the denim and a yarn that is not dyed are combined. And a woven or knitted fabric having a different color.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

  The physical properties of the obtained woven fabric were evaluated by the following tests.

(1) Elongation recovery rate (stretchability)
The elongation percentage of the woven fabric and the product is measured according to the constant load method (B-1 method) of the woven fabric according to JIS L 1096 (2010) “General Fabric Testing Method”. In order to measure the elongation recovery rate of the dough in the weft direction, three test pieces each of 50 mm in the warp direction x 300 mm in the weft direction or 50 mm in the warp direction x 600 mm in the weft direction of the dough were sampled, and one end of the test piece was fixed with an upper clamp. Then, an initial load of a load (N) (a value up to an integer) corresponding to gravity applied to a length of 1 m in the width of the test piece is applied to the other end. Mark at intervals of 200 mm or 500 mm, gently apply a load of 14.7 N, and measure the length between the marks after holding for 1 hour. Next, the load was removed, an initial load was applied 30 seconds or 1 hour later, the length between marks was measured again, and the elongation recovery rate SB (%) was determined by the following equation and expressed as an average of three sheets.
Elongation recovery rate SB (%) = [(SB1-SB2) / (SB1-SB)] × 100
SB2: Length between marks when the initial load was applied one hour after the load was removed (mm)
SB1: Length between marks after applying a load of 14.7N for 1 hour (mm)
SB: Length between marks when initial load is applied (200 mm or 500 mm)

(2) Friction fastness (dry condition, wet condition)
JIS L0849 (2013) Type II (Gakushin type) Friction fastness under dry conditions and wet conditions (wet conditions) was measured by class determination of dry friction and wet friction.

(3) Water absorption (drip method)
It is measured according to JIS L 1907 (2010). One drop of water is dropped from a position at a height of 10 mm from the surface of the test piece, and the time from when the water drop reaches the surface of the test piece until it is completely absorbed is measured.

(4) Diffusible residual moisture content (Kaken method)
After leaving still in an atmosphere under 20 ° C. × 65% RH for 12 hours or more, the mass (W0) of a test piece of 20 cm × 20 cm is measured. 0.3 g of pure water is added dropwise to the test piece, and the test piece is allowed to stand in an atmosphere at 20 ° C. × 65% RH for 60 minutes, and then the mass (W1) of the test piece is measured. The residual moisture content is calculated from the following equation, and the average value of the measured values obtained by performing the same operation three times is rounded to an integer, and the value is defined as the diffusible residual moisture content (%).
Residual moisture percentage (%) = (W1-W0) ÷ 0.3 × 100

(5) W & W property The state of wrinkles after tumble drying according to JIS L 1096: A method is sensory evaluated. Specifically, after repeating the washing according to JIS L 0217 (1995) 103 method 10 times, performing tumble drying once, and allowing the sample to stand overnight in a room at 20 ° C. and 65% RH, the AATCC124- It was determined based on the 1984 five-stage replica method (grade 5 (good) to grade 1 (bad)).

(6) Hot water shrinkage 1 m of spun yarn is measured and immersed in boiling water at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes in a state where tension is not applied. Then, after being naturally dried in a state where tension is not applied, the entangled portion is unraveled using a separating needle, the spun yarn is decomposed into short fibers a and short fibers b, and then under a load of 2.2 mg / dtex for each. Measure its length with. Similarly, the yarn before the boiling water treatment is naturally dried in a state where tension is not applied, and then the entangled portion is unraveled using a separating needle, and the spun yarn is decomposed into short fibers a and short fibers b. The length is measured under a load of 5.4 g / dtex for each. The hot water shrinkage of the short fibers a and b is measured from the respective lengths before and after the boiling water treatment.
Hot water shrinkage (%) = [short fiber length before boiling water treatment (mm) −short fiber length after boiling water treatment (mm)] ÷ short fiber length before boiling water treatment (mm) × 100

(7) Aesthetics The form in which the core short fibers a having different dyeing properties were exposed to the sheath yarn of the dyed spun yarn was determined. When the short fibers a having different dyeing properties are not substantially exposed to the surface of the spun yarn or are exposed in a uniformly dispersed state, the esthetic is determined to be “good”, and the short fibers a are locally exposed to the surface of the spun yarn. When there was a defect that was partially exposed in an exposed or warped manner, it was determined to be “poor”.

[Example 1]
A sliver A is prepared by blending a cotton short fiber of a copolyester having a hot water shrinkage of 20% and a cotton 100% cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 6% with a blended cotton at a mass ratio of B50: 50. Obtained. Then, after obtaining a sliver B of 100% cotton raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 6%, a sliver A is formed in the inner layer and the sliver B is formed into a sheath portion in a drawing step as a sheath portion, The mixing ratio of the raw cotton was 50:50 on a mass basis. The sliver was subjected to sweet twist in the roving process, and a roving was drafted in the spinning process to obtain a spun yarn of 16th in English cotton count. The spun yarn obtained as a warp yarn is a composite yarn of 330 decitex side-by-side type polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, each of which has a warp density of 65 yarns / inch (2.54 cm) and a weft density of 55 yarns / inch. (2.54 cm) and woven with 3/1 twill.

  The resulting greige was subjected to a continuous scouring / mercerizing / intermediate setting step, and was subjected to a blue cationic dyeing by a liquid jet dyeing machine as a dyeing step. In the finishing step, as a result of heat setting by padding water absorption processing, a material having a denim-like surface feeling and satisfying stretch and each physical property was obtained. When the dyed state of the spun yarn used for the warp was checked, the cotton used for the sheath and the core was dyed, but the fibers constituting the copolyester raw cotton used for the core were almost dyed. Did not. Denim pants were sewn with this material, and the surface was polished using sandpaper 240 as a secondary process. As a result, the undyed polyester yarn of the warp spun yarn was moderately exposed on the surface, and a natural unevenness as denim was felt. Could be expressed.

[Example 2]
A sliver A is produced by blending a side-by-side latent crimped polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 25% and a cationic dyeable polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 8% with a blended cotton at 50:50. Obtained. Then, after obtaining sliver B of 100% cationic dyeable polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 8%, a sliver A is used as an inner layer and sliver B is used as a sheath part in a core-sheath process in a drawing step. The raw cotton was mixed, and the mixing ratio of the raw cotton was set to 50:50 on a mass basis. The sliver was subjected to sweet twist in the roving process, and a roving was drafted in the spinning process to obtain a spun yarn of 16th in English cotton count. The spun yarn obtained as a warp yarn is a composite yarn of 330 decitex side-by-side type polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, each of which has a warp density of 65 yarns / inch (2.54 cm) and a weft density of 55 yarns / inch. (2.54 cm) and woven with 3/1 twill. The resulting greige was subjected to a continuous scouring / mercerizing / intermediate setting step, and was subjected to a blue cationic dyeing by a liquid jet dyeing machine as a dyeing step. When the dyed state of the spun yarn used for the warp was checked, the fibers constituting the raw cotton of the dyeable polyester used for the sheath and the core were dyed, but the latently crimped polyester used for the core was used. The fibers constituting the raw cotton were hardly dyed. In the finishing step, as a result of heat setting by padding water absorption processing, a material having a denim-like surface feeling and satisfying stretch and each physical property was obtained. When denim pants were sewn with this material and the surface was polished using sandpaper 240 as a secondary process, the undyed polyester yarn of the warp spun yarn was moderately exposed to the surface and a natural unevenness as denim was felt. Could be expressed.

[Example 3]
By blending a side-by-side latent crimped polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 25% and a cationic dyeable polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 8% with a blended cotton at a mass ratio of 50:50. Sliver A was obtained. After that, a sliver B made of 100% cationic dyeable polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 8% is obtained, and then a sliver B is formed into a core-sheath structure so that sliver A becomes a core and sliver B becomes a sheath. And the mixing ratio of the raw cotton was 50:50 by mass. In the roving process, the sliver was subjected to sweet twisting, and the roving was drafted in the spinning process to obtain a spun yarn of English cotton count # 20.

  The obtained spun yarn and a covering yarn obtained by drafting 3.0 times of a 77 dtex urethane elastic yarn of a 84 dtex polyester filament are cross-knitted in a circular knit 20G in a 1: 1 arrangement, and the spun yarn is knitted and welted. Twill-like knitting greige was obtained with an organization combining. The obtained greige was subjected to a greige set / liquid-flow scouring step, and in the subsequent dyeing step, blue-based cation staining was performed by a liquid-flow dyeing machine. When the dyed state of the spun yarn was confirmed, the fibers constituting the cationically dyeable polyester raw cotton used for the sheath and the core were dyed, but the latently crimped polyester raw cotton used for the core was formed. The fibers that were hardly dyed. In the finishing step, as a result of heat setting by padding water absorption processing, a material having a denim-like surface feeling and satisfying stretch and each physical property was obtained. When denim pants were sewn with this material and the surface was polished using sandpaper 240 as a secondary process, the undyed polyester yarn of the warp spun yarn was moderately exposed to the surface and a natural unevenness as denim was felt. Could be expressed.

[Comparative Example 1]
A drawing process of a side-by-side latent crimped polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 25% and a raw cotton of 100% cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 6% as a core-sheath structure so that the cotton becomes a sheath. And the mixing ratio of the raw cotton was 10:90 on a mass basis. The sliver was subjected to sweet twist in the roving process, and a roving was drafted in the spinning process to obtain a spun yarn of 16th in English cotton count. Using a spun yarn obtained as a warp as a weft and a composite spun yarn of 330 decitex side-by-side type polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, a warp density of 65 yarns / inch (2.54 cm) and a weft density of 55 yarns / inch ( (2.54 cm). The resulting greige machine was subjected to a continuous scouring / mercerizing / intermediate setting process, and was subjected to a blue-based reactive dyeing by a continuous dyeing machine as a dyeing process. When the dyed state of the spun yarn used for the warp was checked, the cotton used for the sheath was dyed, but the fibers constituting the side-by-side type latent crimped polyester raw cotton used for the core were not dyed. Did not. In the finishing step, heat setting by padding water absorption processing was carried out, and as a result, the fibers constituting the core part of the warp were only the fibers constituting the latently crimped polyester raw cotton, and this fiber was locally applied to the surface of the spun yarn. Exposure was noticeable and aesthetically bad.

[Comparative Example 2]
A core-sheath of a dispersible dyeable polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 6% and a cationic dyeable polyester raw cotton having a hot water shrinkage of 8% with a sliver so that the cationic dyeable polyester becomes a sheath. The structure was formed in the drawing step, and the mixing ratio of the raw cotton was 30:70 on a mass basis. The sliver was subjected to sweet twist in the roving process, and a roving was drafted in the spinning process to obtain a spun yarn of 16th in English cotton count. The spun yarn obtained as a warp yarn is a composite yarn of 330 decitex side-by-side type polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, each of which has a warp density of 65 yarns / inch (2.54 cm) and a weft density of 55 yarns / inch. (2.54 cm) and woven with 3/1 twill. The resulting greige was subjected to a continuous scouring / mercerizing / intermediate setting step, and was subjected to a blue cationic dyeing by a liquid jet dyeing machine as a dyeing step. When the dyed state of the spun yarn used for the warp was checked, the cotton of the cationic dyeable polyester used for the sheath was dyed, but the fiber that constituted the dispersed dyeable polyester raw cotton used for the core was used. Was not stained. As a result of conducting the heat setting by the padding water absorption processing in the finishing process, the fiber constituting the core of the warp is only dispersible dyeable polyester, and the local exposure of the fiber to the surface of the spun yarn is noticeable, The aesthetic was poor.

Claims (13)

A core-sheath structure composed of two or more types of short fibers, wherein the core portion is a polyester short fiber a having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and a short fiber b having a hot water shrinkage of less than 10%. The short fiber b is contained, the mass ratio between the polyester short fiber a and the short fiber b is 10:90 to 90:10, and the mass ratio between the core and the sheath is 10:90 to 70:30. Spun yarn. The spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester short fiber (a) and the short fiber (b) have different dyeing properties. The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the short fibers (b) constituting the sheath include fibers composed of the same material as the short fibers (b) contained in the core. A (%) is the hot water shrinkage rate of one type of short fiber exhibiting the highest hot water shrinkage rate among the short fibers constituting the core portion, and the smallest hot water shrinkage rate among the short fibers constituting the sheath portion. The spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein A and B have the following relationship, where the hot water shrinkage ratio of the short fiber is represented by B (%).
A ≧ B + 5 The spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyester staple fibers a include polyester staple fibers having side-by-side latent crimpability. It is knitted and woven using the spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, and a part of the core of the spun yarn contains short fibers dyed in a color different from that of the sheath. A woven or knitted fabric characterized by the following. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein at least one of the elongation recovery rates in the weft direction is 15% or more. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the fastness to friction is 3 or more in both dry and wet conditions. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein a mixing ratio of natural fibers is 50% by mass or less. Water absorption time by the dropping method is 10 seconds or less,
The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein a diffusible residual moisture content by a Kaken method is 30% or less. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 6 to 10, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is used as a denim knitted fabric or a color denim knitted fabric used for clothing selected from shirts, jackets, skirts, and pants having a W & W property of 3.0 or more. . A garment selected from a shirt, a jacket, a skirt and pants, the woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 6 to 11 being included in a part thereof. 13. The garment according to claim 12, which has a W & W property of at least 3.0 grade.