JPH04146246A - Production of pattern knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject knit fabric, increased in lustrousness, improved in snag resistance and windbreak properties without any bagginess and having excellent durability of uneven patterns by arranging thermoplastic synthetic fiber in a pattern part, knitting the fiber and dry heat-treating the resultant knit fabric under specific conditions. CONSTITUTION:A pattern knit fabric having a pattern part, floated relatively to the ground part and forming protruding parts is knitted. In the process, thermoplastic synthetic fiber is arranged in at least part of the aforementioned pattern part and knitted. The resultant knit fabric is then dry heat-treated under conditions of >=150 deg.C temperature and >=10 tons pressing load to afford the objective knit fabric. Furthermore, the pressing treatment is preferably carried out by adopting, e.g. a press with calender rolls or a flat press.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a patterned knitted fabric in which a pattern part floats relative to a ground part to form a convex part, and is suitable for casual wear, sportswear, etc. It provides knitted fabrics.

(Prior art) As a method of manufacturing a knitted fabric having an uneven pattern, a circular knitting machine is used, 20 pattern yarns are arranged for one base yarn, and these 20 pattern yarns are made into exactly the same structure using cylinder needles. A method of producing a so-called double blister pattern knitted fabric by continuously knitting is known. Another known method is to knit a plain knitted fabric, use an engraved calendar with a concavo-convex pattern or engraving, apply strong pressure, and then perform dry heat treatment.

(Problem to be solved by the invention) However, since the double blister pattern knitted fabric is knitted by repeating the same structure twice by hanging the pattern yarn on cylinder needles,
The pattern yarn bulges out on the surface of the knitted fabric, resulting in a pattern with large unevenness, but on the other hand, because the pattern part is floating, it is easy to get caught on relatively small protrusions, and as a result, the pattern yarn is pulled out in a loop, resulting in snagging. There was a problem in that not only did this occur, but also the feeling of smudgedness was large. Furthermore, the method of using an engraved calendar has the problem that the texture of the knitted fabric becomes paper-like and rough, and the durability of the uneven pattern is low, and the unevenness disappears after repeated washing.

The present invention provides a manufacturing method for obtaining a patterned knitted fabric that is hard to cause snagging, does not have a feeling of looseness, has a soft feel, has excellent windproof properties, and has unevenness that does not disappear easily.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The manufacturing method of the present invention is to heat the above-mentioned handle part to at least a part thereof when knitting a pattern knitted fabric in which the handle part floats with respect to the ground part to form a convex part. It is characterized in that it is knitted by disposing plastic synthetic fibers, and the resulting knitted fabric is subjected to dry heat treatment under conditions of a temperature of 150° C. or higher and a pressing load of 10 tons or higher.

In this invention, it is necessary to arrange thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, acrylic fibers, etc. in at least a part of the handle, and for this purpose, it is necessary to use threads made of the above synthetic fibers as the handle threads. It is preferable to use it. Furthermore, the above synthetic fibers and natural fibers such as cotton and wool or recycled fibers such as rayon can be used in combination by any means. In addition to blending and twisted twisting, composite methods include core spinning, in which the synthetic fiber filament yarn is used as a core and the surrounding area is covered with other fiber stables;
Alternatively, a mixed fiber method is used in which a plurality of synthetic fiber filaments and a plurality of recycled fiber filaments described above are stacked and twisted in an expanded state. The composition ratio of synthetic fibers in this pattern yarn is appropriately set in consideration of the gloss, unevenness, texture, etc. required for the product, but it is preferably 30% or more of the total weight of the pattern yarn. .

As the ground yarn, any yarn such as the above-mentioned synthetic fiber yarn, natural fiber yarn, recycled fiber yarn, and composite yarn can be used. In addition, the knitting structure uses the same double blister pattern as before. After the above knitting, preferably further dyeing processing is performed, dry heat treatment is performed at a temperature of 150° C. or higher, preferably 170 to 180° C., 1 press load 1 (12 or higher, preferably 20 to 40 tons). For the above-mentioned suppression, a press using a calendar roll or a flat press can be adopted.

(Function) By pressurizing and heating the knitted fabric, the handle forming convex portions on the surface of the knitted fabric is particularly compressed, and the thermoplastic synthetic fibers within the handle are heat-set in a compressed state. As a result, the luster of the pattern increases, the roughness decreases, the snagging property improves, and the breathability decreases, while leaving the unevenness of the knitted fabric intact. However, if the temperature is less than 150℃ or the pressing load is less than 10 tons, sufficient gloss may not be obtained.
In addition, the durability of the uneven pattern decreases, and the dry heat treatment effect described above is lost due to repeated washing. Furthermore, if the above-mentioned pressing load becomes excessively large, exceeding 50 tons, uneven gloss tends to occur in the course direction of the knitted fabric.

(Example) Double-sided circular knitting machine (Bent) with a diameter of 30 inches and a 22 gauge
ley 9RJ) to knit the double blister pattern fabric shown in Figure 1. Two types of ground threads were prepared, the first ground thread 1 was a polyester false twisted yarn (150 d/48 f), and the second ground thread 2 was a polyester/cotton blended yarn (polyester/cotton blend ratio 40/60). , thickness 30 English 2nd count) were used, respectively. Further, as the pattern yarn 3, the same polyester false twisted yarn (150 d/48 f) as the first ground yarn 1 was used. Then, as shown in Figure 1, the first course (1)
In the second course (2), the first ground thread 1 is supplied to the dial needle to knit the back tissue, and in the second course (2), the second ground thread 2 is supplied to the dial needle and the cylinder needle to knit the binding tissue covering the front and back sides.
In the third course (3) and the fourth course (4), the pattern yarn 3 is supplied to the cylinder needles to knit the same pattern structure in both courses, and then in the fifth course (5) and the sixth course (
6), 7th course (7), 8th course (8) and 9th course
The course (not shown) and subsequent courses were knitted in the same manner as above except that the structure for each course was changed, with 4 courses as a knitting yarn supply unit.

The obtained knitted fabric of Example 1 (width 150an, basis weight 420
g/rrf) in the usual way, and then
Dry heat treatment was carried out using α steel calender rolls at a pressing load of 30 tons, a temperature of 170° C., and a cloth speed of 6 m/min. In addition, knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the dry heat treatment after knitting was performed or the conditions were different, and their performances were compared. The results are shown in Table 1 below. In the table, the glossiness and unevenness were visually evaluated by 10 panelists, and rated as ◎ for very good, ◯ for good, △ for slightly bad, and × for bad. In addition, the feeling of stiffness was similarly determined by hand testing by 10 panelists, snagging was measured by the Mace method, and air permeability was measured by the Frazier method.

Table 1 Next, the double blister pattern fabric shown in FIG. 2 was knitted using a double-sided circular knitting machine (Telot UP I 48) with a diameter of 30 inches and a gauge of 26. The knitting yarn is the second yarn of Example 1 above.
The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the base yarn 2 was changed to a 30 count polyester spun yarn. Then, as shown in FIG. 2, in the first course (1), the first ground yarn l is supplied to the dial needle and the cylinder needle to knit the connective tissue covering the front and back sides, and in the second course (2), the The ground yarn 2 is fed only to the dial needle to knit the back weave, and in the third course (3) and fourth course (4), the pattern yarn 3 is fed to the cylinder needle, respectively, so that both courses have the same pattern weave. organized, then the fifth
Course (5), 6th course (6), 7th course (7),
The eighth course (8) and the ninth course (9) and the following were knitted in the same manner as above except that the structure for each course was changed, with four courses being knitting yarn supply units.

The obtained knitted fabric of Example 2 (width 152 cm, basis weight 380
After dyeing g/n() in the usual way, the diameter is 60a.
Dry heat treatment was carried out using a steel calender roll of 35 tons at a temperature of 175°C and a cloth speed of 6 m/min. Also,
The knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the dry heat treatment after knitting was performed or the conditions were different.
Their performance was compared in the same manner as above. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

Table 2 As evident from Tables 1 and 2 above, Example 1
and No. 2 both have the same unevenness as the others, have excellent gloss and snagging resistance, have a small bumpy feel, have low air permeability, and are excellent in windproof properties. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 4, in which dry heat treatment was omitted, were inferior in all of the glossiness, bumpy feeling, and snagging property, and were largely lacking in air permeability and windproofness. In addition, in Comparative Examples 2 and 5, the temperature of the dry heat treatment was set low, so
Although the feeling of smearing was small, the gloss and snagging property were poor. In addition, in Comparative Examples 3 and 6, the dry heat treatment load was set to be small, so the glossiness, bumpiness, and snagging property were significantly inferior.

(Effects of the Invention) In this invention, thermoplastic synthetic fibers are arranged in the pattern part that forms the convex part of the knitted fabric, and after knitting, strong pressure is applied in a calendar and dry heat treatment is applied, so that the conventional double blister pattern knitted fabric is Compared to conventional engraved calendars, the glossiness is increased, the scratchy feeling is eliminated, the snagging property is improved, and the windproof properties are improved.Moreover, the uneven pattern formed by knitting and dry heat treatment has good durability. The uneven pattern will not disappear with repeated washing, unlike when it is stamped.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figures 1 (1) to 8) are the organizational chart of Example 1;
Figures (1) to 24) are organizational charts of Example 2. 112: Base thread, 3: Pattern thread.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] [1] When knitting a patterned knitted fabric in which the pattern part floats relative to the ground part to form a convex part, the above-mentioned pattern part is provided with a thermoplastic synthetic fiber in at least a part thereof. Knit the resulting knitted fabric at temperature 1
A method for producing a patterned knitted fabric, characterized by dry heat treatment under conditions of 50° C. or higher and a pressing load of 10 tons or higher.