JPH0995859A - Polyester spun knitted fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain the subject fabric with soft and cashmere touch feeling with favorable skin touch, high in thermal insulation, free from any problem concerning physical properties, and excellent in pill resistance, and to provide a method for efficiently producing the knitted fabric. SOLUTION: This polyester spun knitted fabric comprises polyester short fibers 0.01-10 denier in single fiber fineness and >=2.5g/d in single fiber tenacity. There are no fused pills involved in singeing in the surface fluffs on the fabric, and an average fluff length of the surface fluffs 1 is 1.1-50mm and an average fluff density is >=200 counts/cm.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric having a woolen soft touch and texture and having an anti-pilling property, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Woven fabrics and knitted fabrics using short-fiber spun yarns of synthetic fibers such as polyester and acrylic have a soft touch and a heat retaining property due to the feeling of fluff on the surface, and are widely used for clothing. Among them, a woven or knitted fabric having a long fluff called wool is extremely long fluff and has a high density, so that it is a highly sensitive fabric having natural cashmere or angora-like smooth texture and touch.

Since such woolen woven and knitted fabrics have poor strength and dimensional stability in natural cashmere and angora, improvement and commercialization of polyester staple fiber spun yarns having particularly high physical properties are being pursued. However, since the spun fabric made of such short fiber wool has long fluff, the fluff on the surface of the fabric is rubbed against the normal short-fluff carded woven or knitted fabric during wearing or washing, and pilling called pilling occurs immediately. However, it is well known that the quality and appearance of the fabric are greatly impaired, which causes a problem. This is because the short fiber fluff on the surface of the fabric is rubbed, so that the fluff existing on the surface or the fluff is pulled out from the fabric and entangled with each other. Entangled fluff is less likely to fall off, and synthetic fibers such as polyester, which has high fiber strength and elongation, poses a particular problem.

The following countermeasures are taken against the occurrence of defects called pilling and pilling of mild pilling, but they are not sufficient.

(1) A method of modifying the strength and elongation of the fiber to be small. A modified polyester prepared by copolymerizing 5 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol or sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with the polyester has been proposed. Although these modified fibers have an anti-pill effect, they are unsatisfactory because they have problems that the fiber physical properties of the fiber body are weakened and that moss is not improved.

(2) A method of increasing the tissue restraining force of the cloth. There is a method of using a strongly twisted yarn in which the number of twists of the spun yarn is increased so that the surface fluff of the cloth is less likely to occur, and a method of increasing the texture density of the cloth, but there is a problem that the texture becomes hard and the heat retention becomes poor. .

(3) A method for making surface fluff brittle. Zinc chloride on the surface fluff of the cloth, Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-6670,
There is a method described in JP-A-57-25475, in which a fiber embrittlement agent such as an amine is sprayed and heat-treated to embrittle the hair tips, but uniform treatment is difficult, and an excessive amount of waste is eliminated. There is a problem that it cannot be easily processed because liquid processing equipment is required.

(4) A method of performing a hair-burning process. It is a method applied to a carded knitted fabric having short fluffs, and is a method in which the surface fluffs of the cloth are burnt with a gas burner at the time of dyeing and finishing the cloth. However, it is not applied to wool with long fluff, and even if it is applied, the anti-pill effect is observed as it is,
Since the fluff melt balls remain on the surface, there are problems that the texture is rough, the texture is hardened by heat treatment, and the heat retention is poor.

(5) Method of resin processing. There is a method of using a resin such as polyurethane resin, polyacrylic resin, melamine resin, etc. to impregnate and fix the root of the fluff of the woven or knitted fabric to suppress the pulling out of the fluff to enhance the anti-pill property, but the tip of the fluff becomes short and smooth. There is a problem that the touch is not obtained, and the hardness of the resin remains, resulting in a rough texture.

As described above, in each case, there are advantages and disadvantages, and it is extremely difficult to obtain a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric which is soft and has a good touch, and which is excellent in anti-pilling property and has a long-standing problem in the industry. .

In order to solve such a problem, the present inventors have found that the fluff shape and the fluff quality on the surface of the fabric have a significant relationship with the anti-pilling property, and have arrived at the present invention.

[0012]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of polymer modification, hair-burning processing and resin processing, and to provide a soft and comfortable touch with cashmere touch,
It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric having a high heat retention property, no physical problems, and excellent anti-pilling properties, and a method for efficiently obtaining the same.

[0013]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following constitution. That is, a spun woven or knitted fabric containing polyester short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a single fiber strength of 2.5 g / d or more,
The surface fluff of the woven or knitted fabric has no molten balls due to fluffing,
A polyester spun woven or knitted fabric characterized in that the average fluff length of the surface fluff is 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm or less and the average fluff density is 200 fibers / cm or more.

The manufacturing method for obtaining the woven or knitted fabric is as follows. A spun woven or knitted fabric containing polyester short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a single fiber strength of 2.5 g / denier or more is napped. After processing, the surface of the woven or knitted material is a flexible rough surface material having an abrasive film surface, and is beaten and rubbed on the surface of the supporting roller, and the surface fluff has an average fluff length of at least 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm. The following is a method for producing a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric, characterized by finishing so as to have an average fluff density of 200 fibers / cm or more.

[0015]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The constituent fibers of the spun woven or knitted fabric of the present invention are not particularly limited as long as they are polyester short fibers, and 100% of polyester is particularly preferable for maximizing the effects of the present invention. It is also preferable to mix ordinary polyester and cationic dye-dyeable polyester in order to obtain a black effect and to mix polyamide and polyacryl in order to impart smooth sliding. Further, in order to impart hygroscopicity, it is also preferable to mix rayon, cotton, hemp, wool or the like in a small amount with polyester.

In the present invention, other polyesters may be partially mixed with the constituent fibers of the woven or knitted material.

The constituent fiber of the present invention has a single fiber fineness of 0.01.
10 to 10 denier, and 0.5 to 7 denier is particularly preferable. Ultrafine fibers having a denier of less than 0.01 have problems in yarn production, and fibers having a denier of more than 10 denier are not preferable because the fibers are too thick and have a stiff and hard texture.

The fiber length is 50 because of its spinnability.
It is preferably about 70 mm.

The strength of the single fiber is preferably 2.5 g / denier or more and 7.0 g / denier or less from the viewpoint of maintaining the strength of the woven or knitted fabric main body, and a normal homopolymer polyester (strength 4.5 to 5.5 g). / Denier) and a modified polyester (strength 2.5-4.5 g / denier) obtained by copolymerizing 2-3% by weight of alkylene glycol and the like can be preferably applied.

As the copolyester, in addition to alkylene glycol, a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing trimellitic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and the like in an amount of 2 to 8 mol% further exhibits a soft texture and anti-pilling property. Therefore, it can be preferably applied.

If the strength is less than 2.5 g / denier, the strength of the entire fabric is reduced and the fluff is more likely to come off.
It is not preferable because it impairs the appearance. Further, if the strength is higher than 7 g / d, the texture is hardened, which is not preferable.

The surface of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is napped. This is an important means for creating long, dense surface fluff as wool and maximizing the effect of the present invention.

At least the surface of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not calcined, and no molten balls are present. If there is a melted ball due to the hair-burning process, there are problems such as rough texture, hardness, and lack of heat retention.

Further, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not subjected to at least anti-pilling resin finishing, and there is no finishing agent.
The presence of the anti-pill finishing agent causes a problem that the texture becomes hard, the original smooth touch of the fluff is lost, and the texture becomes rough.

The anti-pilling resin finish used in the present invention is a polyurethane resin, a polyacrylic resin, a melamine resin, or a fluororesin. Other than this, surfactants such as antistatic agents and softening agents, silicone finishing agents, etc. are not covered and can be applied to the present invention.

The surface of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has at least a surface fluff length of 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm or less, and an average fluff density of at least 200 fluff / cm or more. If the surface fluff length is less than 1.1 mm, the texture effect as the wool is insufficient, which is not preferable.
A fluff exceeding 0 mm is not preferable because it causes a large amount of fluffing and deteriorates the surface quality, and it is difficult to produce by a usual raising means. From the viewpoint of feeling effect, it is particularly preferably 1.5 mm or more and 30 mm or less. The fluff density is such a fluff length, and is at least 200 fibers / cm or more.

When the density of fluffs is less than 200 / cm, the number of fluffs is small, so that the ground portion of the woven or knitted fabric is transparent and there is a problem that the texture is thin and fluffy. From the viewpoint of the feeling effect, those having a density of 250 to 500 lines / cm are particularly preferable.

The average fluff length and the average fluff density referred to in the present invention are measured as follows.

The spun woven fabric is folded in two and the fluff shape on the folded straight line is changed to "Microreader Printer 35".
00 "(manufactured by Ricoh Co., Ltd.) is used to photograph the shadow of the fluff by inserting a light beam from the bottom. If the fabric is folded in half, the warp yarn direction and the weft yarn direction are photographed at 5 positions respectively. The fluff length and the number of fluffs are actually measured from the photographed photograph, and the average fluff length (mm) and the average fluff density (books / cm) are obtained from the average values, and the fluff is a cut fiber. The photographing magnification is preferably 50 to 200 times.

FIG. 1 shows a photograph of the surface fluff state of the fabric showing one embodiment of the present invention evaluated by such a method.

As a comparison, FIG. 2 shows a photograph of the surface fluff state before the beating and rubbing treatment after the raising of the needle cloth.

FIG. 1 shows an example of a woven fabric of 100% polyester, which shows that the fluff length is long and the fluff density is high, and that the pilling resistance is 4 to 5 grade, which is a very excellent characteristic. The surface is free of molten beads and anti-pilling finish, and shows a soft and soft texture (shooting magnification: 5
0 times). On the other hand, in the comparative example of FIG. 2, the fluff density is coarse,
(102 lines / cm), the anti-pilling property was problematic in the first grade.

In the present invention, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics are preferable because the effects of the present invention can be exhibited well. The woven fabric is preferably composed of spun spun yarn (100%), but a mixed woven fabric using long fibers for the warp yarn and spun yarn for the weft yarn is also preferable because a soft and repulsive texture can be obtained. Satin, Venetian, Mosser, Twill and the like are preferable because the woven fabric has excellent napping property. The knitted fabric is preferable because the effect of the satin, interlock, and mock Milano rib structure is greatly exhibited.

The constituent yarn form of the fabric is not particularly limited as long as it is a polyester short fiber spun yarn (spun yarn), but a normal spun yarn is preferable because the effect can be greatly exhibited. Further, a twisted yarn with a filament yarn or a finely spun twisted yarn is preferable because a yarn with a high resilience can be obtained.

The yarn count of the spun yarn is preferably 12 to 80, and the twist number is preferably in the range of 60 to 1500 times / m.

As for the raw cotton form of the constituent yarns, in addition to ordinary round cross-section yarns, hollow fibers have a rich feeling of lightness, and titanium oxide particle-containing yarns have a characteristic of being rich in drape. As the method for producing the cloth of the present invention, the polyester spun woven or knitted fabric described above is scoured by a usual method, and then napped before or after dyeing. Since the fluff length of the napped cloth nap is slightly shortened by the beating / rubbing treatment described later, it is preferable to nap the nap in consideration of this. Next, the inventors of the present invention previously filed Japanese Utility Model Application No. 4-30159 (Actual Application No.
The following processing method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 89490) can be processed reasonably and efficiently. Note that the normal buffing and sanding are grinding with emery rolls or emery belts, and no anti-pill effect is particularly obtained, so they cannot be applied.

To briefly explain the method of Japanese Patent Application No. 4-30159, a spun woven or knitted fabric is beaten and rubbed on a support roller surface with a flexible rough surface material having a surface of an abrasive film. It is a method of processing and finishing. The rough surface material is a sharp blade-shaped material in which metal plates are laminated and the thickness is drastically reduced toward the tip, and the rough surface material is rotated to treat the cloth surface.

The number of revolutions of the rough surface material is 150 to 400 rpm,
The number of blades is 9 to 30 / drum, the number of drums is 2 to 4,
Processing tension (vertical direction) is 8-30g / mm, rubbing pressure is 2
It is preferable that the processing is performed at 0 to 60 g / mm, an abrasive grain size of # 800 to # 320, and a processing speed of 5 to 20 m / min. The treatment is a continuous treatment on one side, and there is no problem in processing uniformity and quality, and efficient treatment can be performed.

The point of such a treatment method is to cut long fluff with a raised surface of the cloth cloth while strongly pulling it out with a sharp rough surface material, and at the same time cut and remove loops and fiber solids to newly add a slightly shorter and denser surface. The surface is created by generating fluff. In other words, very playful hair
By removing the ash, only "strong hair" is created, the abrasion resistance is enhanced, and the anti-pilling property is imparted. Therefore, it is an important requirement that the rough surface material has a thin thickness and is laminated with metal plates having high rigidity, and that a "strong" rough surface material having an abrasive (polishing film) on the surface is used. Assuming that such a rough surface material is used, the conditions for controlling the strength of the treatment include the particle size of the abrasive, the number of the rough surface material, the number of revolutions, the number of times of processing, etc. It is a preferable method to control in () because stable processing can be obtained.

Regarding the finish after such beating and rubbing treatment, it is finished without scalding or anti-pilling resin processing.

As described above, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the fluffy surface is specified by physical processing. This makes it possible to obtain a woolen woven or knitted fabric that has a soft and soft touch with a cashmere touch and is excellent in heat retention and excellent in pilling without deteriorating the physical properties of the fabric body.

[0043]

[Example] The performance of the fabric in the examples was evaluated by the following method.

(1) Anti-pilling property The raised surface of the fabric is evaluated according to the pilling test method of the woven fabric and knitting of JIS L1076. However, the woven fabric is treated for 10 hours, and the knitted fabric is treated for 5 hours.

Very little occurrence of 5th grade pilling, very good Occurrence of 4th grade pilling, but good occurrence of 3rd grade pilling Large amount of 2nd grade pilling, somewhat bad 1st grade pilling Remarkably large number and poor (2) Feeling The feeling of the fabric was sensory-evaluated in the following four stages.

● ... Soft and slippery, with a warm feel and extremely good ○ ... Soft, slippery and warm feeling with a feeling of good Δ ... Roughness and hard feel poor × … The texture is rough and the texture is hard, and it is extremely poor. (3) Measurement of average fluff length and average fluff density The fluff quality of the raised surface is the same as the measurement method described in the specification except that the photographing magnification is changed to 108 times. Was evaluated.

(4) Heat retention The heat retention is expressed by the clo value method proposed by APGagge, AC Burton et al. The larger the value, the warmer and the better.

Clo = (1 / K) /0.18 Here, heat transmission resistance: 1 / K (m ² hr ° C./Kcal)=6.54
X (40-t) / bb b: energization time (sec / hr) when the test piece was attached t: outside air temperature (° C) indicated by the measuring machine (5) Strength The tear strength of the fabric was tested according to JIS L-1096. According to the method, the woven fabric was evaluated for the strength (kg) of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, respectively.

The knitted fabric has a burst strength (kg / cm ² ) of JIS L
It was evaluated according to the test method of -1018. The higher the tear strength and burst strength, the better the physical properties and the better.

Example 1 <Production of Fabric> Single-fiber fineness of polyester raw cotton of 2.0 denier, cut length of 64 mm, single-fiber strength of 4.8 g / d (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was spun by a conventional method, A single spun yarn was obtained (twist number: 600 times / m). Next, this spun yarn is used for warp and weft yarns, with a warp density of 64 threads / inch and a weft density of 6
7 pieces / inch were woven into satin fabric.

Then, it was scoured in a conventional manner, dyed with a gray disperse dye, and dried. After drying, the surface of the woven fabric was raised eight times with a needle cloth raising machine (manufactured by Tom Limson (Germany)). <Treatment of Fabric> Then, the surface of the obtained woven fabric is treated according to the treatment method disclosed in Japanese Utility Model Application No. 4-30159, and the grain numbers of the rough surface materials are # 600 (condition 1) and # 800 (condition 2). )
In the following two conditions, a beat and scratch treatment was performed.

A. Rubbing rough surface material: Abrasive film (abrasive grain: silicon carbide, grain number: the above conditions): metal plate (SK steel, thickness 0.08 mm x 2, 0.15 mm x 1, 1.0 mm x 1, 3 layers in total): Shape (Sharp tip shape): Size (Thickness 1.31mm, Length 122mm, Width 1600mm) b. Number of rough surface materials mounted: 9 per drum c. Number of rough surface drums: 2 d. Rotational speed of rough surface: 220 rpm e. Processing tension: 20 g / mm f. Rubbing pressure: 25 g / mm g. Processing speed: 6.0 m / min h. Treatment form: Continuous spreading treatment (single-sided treatment) After the treatment, it is finished according to the conventional method without quilling treatment or anti-pilling resin treatment (fabric width: 155 cm, warp yarn density 74 / inch, weft yarn density 74 / inch).

As the performance evaluation of the finished fabric, the evaluation was performed according to the evaluation method described above except that the imaging magnification of the fluff was 108 times and the anti-pilling treatment time was 10 hours. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0054]

[Table 1] Comparative Example 1 Finishing according to Example 1 except that the conventional anti-pilling resin processing (polyurethane resin, resin adhesion amount 1.5 wt%, pad / cure method) was applied instead of the processing method of Example 1. It is an example of a woven fabric.

Comparative Example 2 Instead of the treatment method of Example 1, the conventional buffing (# 60
0, emery roll, processing speed 6 m / min, processing frequency 1
Figure 3 is an example of a woven fabric finished according to Example 1 except that the number of times was applied.

Table 1 also shows the evaluation results of the woven fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

The polyester spun woolen fabric of the present invention comprises:
As shown in Table 1, both condition 1 and condition 2 are soft and soft to the touch with a cashmere touch, and a gray woolen satin woven fabric with excellent anti-pilling property (4th to 5th grade) and excellent properties is obtained. Was given. In addition, there was no problem with the heat retaining property and the strong physical properties of the woven fabric, and the fabric could be smoothly treated.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, a large number of polyurethane resins were present, and the hardness of the resin remained and the texture was rugged.
And the anti-pilling property was a problem. Comparative Example 2 had a low level of anti-pilling property and was a problem.

Example 2 In a mixed woven fabric of polyester filament and spun, the weft yarn is the polyester spun spun yarn of Example 1, and the vertical yarn is polyester multifilament processed yarn (Woolie processed yarn) 150 denier and 48 filaments. Finished according to example 1 except used (finish width:
153 cm, warp thread density 75 threads / inch, weft thread density 76 threads /
inch).

The finishing results are shown in Table 2.

[0061]

[Table 2] Comparative Example 3 This is an example of a fabric finished according to Example 2 except that the anti-pill treatment of Example 2 is not applied.

The polyester spun / filament interwoven fabric of the present invention was a fine woolen fabric having a soft touch with cashmere touch as shown in Table 2 and excellent anti-pilling property (5th grade). There were no problems with heat retention and strength, and the fabric could be treated efficiently.

On the other hand, Comparative Example 3 was a woven fabric having a low level of pilling resistance, rough fluff and a mediocre texture.

Example 3 Polyester fiber "Tetoron" (registered trademark manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.), single yarn fineness of 3 denier, cut length of 64 mm, single fiber strength of 5.0 g / d were spun alone to produce No. 30 double yarn. Obtained. Then, it was knitted with a smooth structure in a circular knitted fabric. The knitted fabric was further refined by a conventional method, and napped with the treatment method of Example 1,
A rough surface grain number of # 600 was tapped and rubbed. Then, it was dyed, dried, and finished.

The obtained polyester spun knitted fabric had an average fluff length of 5.6 mm and a fluff quality with an average fluff density of 462 fibers / cm, and had an anti-pilling property of grade 4-5 and was extremely soft. It was a smooth knitted fabric with unique characteristics.

The heat-retaining property (clo value: 0.77) was high, and the burst strength (5.2 kg / cm ² ) was also high, and there was no problem.

Example 4 Copolyester raw cotton obtained by copolymerizing polyester with 1.3% by weight of trimethyl trimellitate and 1.0% by weight of dimethyl isophthalate, single fiber fineness of 3.0 denier, cut length of 76 mm, single fiber The fiber strength was evaluated according to Example 1 except that the fiber strength was changed to 2.8 g / denier.

As a result, the surface fluff length was 2.92 mm, and the fluff material had an average fluff density of 262 fibers / cm, the anti-pilling property was grade 5, the clo value was 0.81, and the tear strength was vertical. The yarn was 4.0 kg, the weft yarn was 2.1 kg, and the texture was soft touch, high texture, and high quality polyester woolen fabric was obtained.

[0069]

【The invention's effect】

(1) The anti-pilling property is extremely excellent. Basically, it has high performance of 4th grade or higher.

(2) There is no occurrence of fluff. There is no fluffy surface defect due to hair clumps in the initial stage of pilling.

(3) Durability of anti-pilling property is high, and it is excellent in long-term wear and wash resistance. (4) Soft and soft to the touch with a warm cashmere touch. It has a soft and distinctive texture in contrast to the rough texture of the melted balls in the conventional quill processing and the hard texture in the resin processing.

(5) High physical properties. The treatment of the very surface layer of the fabric is sufficient, and the strength of the fabric body is not reduced.

(6) For fibers such as polyester and polyacryl which have high fiber strength and are easy to be pilled originally,
Especially effective.

(7) Similarly, the effect of improving pilling is high with respect to a low pilling level such as a woolen fabric having long fluff and high fluff density.

(8) It can be easily processed. The spun cloth of the present invention can be obtained by simply and efficiently treating it without the need to apply wicking processing or resin processing.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a photograph showing an example of the shape of fibers of surface fluff of a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a photograph showing the shape of surface fluff fibers of a conventional woven or knitted fabric.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: fluff

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A spun woven or knit fabric containing polyester short fibers having a monofilament fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a monofilament strength of 2.5 g / denier or more. There is no melted ball due to, the average fluff length of the surface fluff is 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm or less, and the average fuzz density is 20.
A polyester spun woven or knitted fabric characterized by having 0 or more fibers / cm. 2. The polyester spun woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester single fiber is a copolyester. 3. A spun woven or knitted fabric containing polyester short fibers having a monofilament fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a monofilament strength of 2.5 g / denier or more is subjected to needle cloth raising, and then the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is polished. A flexible rough surface material with a film surface, beaten and rubbed on the surface of the support roller, and the surface fluff has an average fluff length of at least 1.1 mm to 50 mm and an average fluff density of 200 / A method for producing a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric, which comprises finishing to have a size of not less than cm. 4. The beating and rubbing treatment is performed by strongly pulling out a long rough fluff having a raised surface that has been brushed with a needle cloth with a flexible rough surface material having a surface of an abrasive film, and at the same time, cutting loops and fiber solids. The fluff is cut and removed to newly generate slightly shorter and denser fluff.
The method for producing a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric according to item 1.