JPH04333636A - Woven fabric with thin raised tone - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a woven fabric of high tear strength, comprised of, as warps, spun yarns or textured yarns with fluffs and/or loops and, as wefts, multifilament textured yarns with the fineness of the single filament at or below a specified level. CONSTITUTION:The objective woven fabric with plain or twill texture comprised of (A) as warps, (1) spun yarns of cotton, wool, rayon, polynosic or synthetic fibers or blended yarns thereof, (2) core spun yarns with polyurethane elastic yarns as core and cotton, wool, acrylic, rayon or polyester-cotton blended yarns as sheath, (3) covering yarns with polyurethane elastic yarns as core and nylon textured yarns or cation-dyeable polyester textured yarns as sheath, or (4) another kind of textured yarns having fluffs and/or loops such as crimped yarns of conjugate fibers finely splittable through false twisting, and (B) as wefts, multifilament textured yarns with the fineness of the single filament <=1.5 denier.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

[Industrial field of application] Concerning textiles that have excellent tear strength, are soft and have a lightly brushed touch, and are suitable for sports and casual wear.

0002

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Fabrics made of fine-count high-grade cotton are excellent in quality, luster, texture, and comfort, but are expensive in terms of cost. Moreover, although raising the fabric gives it a warmer feel and makes it more luxurious, the tear strength is significantly lowered, impairing its practicality. In order to avoid this, if the warp thread count is thick or double threads are used, the fabric becomes thicker and has a delicate surface feel and texture, which makes it impossible to obtain a thin fabric. In addition, fabrics with cotton in the warp and regular or processed filament yarn in the weft are effective for making the fabric thinner and softer.
In terms of elegance, the fabric emphasizes the unevenness of the warp threads. In addition, the gloss of the filament is emphasized, lacking a natural feel. Moreover, there was a limit to how thin the material could be in order to prevent a decrease in strength due to napping. On the other hand, with fabrics that use filament yarn for the weft, especially nylon, which is effective for light weight and softness, it is difficult to obtain a flat finish and only natural wrinkles can be obtained due to the unavoidable occurrence of uneven dyeing defects such as medium and rough edges. Ta.

0003

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks, and provides a fabric that is soft, bulky, lightweight, has excellent strength, and has a natural luster, which expresses a lightly brushed touch without being brushed. The purpose is to

0004

[Means for Solving the Problems] That is, the present invention arranges a spun yarn or a processed yarn having fluff and/or loops in the warp, and arranges a multifilament processed yarn with a single yarn denier of 1.5 deniers or less in the weft. It is a woven fabric.

[0005] The weft of the fabric in the present invention has a single yarn of 1.5
Use multifilament processed yarn of den or less. The processed yarn referred to here is: (1) So-called taslan processed yarn, which has a core-sheath structure, is aligned, or has a single yarn turbulence disturbance processed yarn. (2) Different shrinkage interlaced yarn, for example, a mixed yarn in which filaments are aligned or fed differently, or a mixed yarn in which filaments and crimped yarn are aligned or fed differently. (3) Multilayer crimped yarn with different supply false twisting. (4) Mixed woven interlaced yarn with different elongation differences. (5) A crimped composite yarn that can be made ultra-fine by being peeled and split by false twisting. etc. are exemplified. In any case, in order to obtain a delicate appearance and texture without the glare or metallic luster that is seen with ordinary filaments, it is important to use spunlike threads with the above-mentioned fine loops and fluff, and the total denier is 50 to 500. Denier is fine. In addition, the single yarn denier may be 1.5 denier or less, preferably 0.1 to 1.0 denier, in order to obtain a delicate appearance, feel, and windproof and heat-retaining effect. If it exceeds 1.5 denier, a thin brushed touch cannot be obtained.

The warp of the fabric in the present invention is a spun yarn or a processed yarn having fluff and/or loops selected from the following. (1) Core yarn with polyurethane elastic yarn as the core and cotton, wool, acrylic, rayon, ester cotton blend yarn, etc. as the sheath. (2) Covering yarn coated with nylon processed yarn, cationically dyeable polyester filament, etc. with polyurethane elastic yarn as the core yarn. (3) Synthetic fiber crimped yarn (for example, 6-nylon yarn, 6.6-nylon yarn, polyester yarn, etc.). (4) Cotton, wool, rayon fiber, polynosic fiber,
Spun yarns of synthetic fibers or blended yarns thereof.

The warp and weft in the present invention are polyethylene terephthalate, polyester copolymerized with pentasodium sulfoisophthalate, 6-nylon, 6.6 nylon polyester/nylon composite yarn (sea-island type, radial type).
, natural fibers, recycled fibers, etc. Further, the fiber cross section may be round, triangular, flat, or multilobal, and the titanium oxide content may be 0 to 3% by weight.

[0008] The fabric structure of the present invention is not particularly limited, but a plain structure or a twill structure is effective.

The main focus of the present invention is on a method for obtaining a lightly brushed touch without the need for napping, and in order to emphasize the natural appearance and texture effect, spun yarn or spun-like processed yarn is used for the warp, and spun-like processed yarn is used for the weft. It uses multifilament spunlike processed yarn. Spun yarn has restrictions on texture, appearance, and functionality, but by specifying the single yarn denier and using spun-like processed yarn, it is possible to obtain a sufficient touch without raising.
A homogeneous surface texture with no uneven spun yarn can also be obtained. If you only want functionality, you can use ultra-fine filament yarn for the weft, but you will not be able to achieve the desired touch or appearance. By using a multilayered crimped yarn with fine loops and fluff, it is possible to obtain an appearance, feel, and functionality that cannot be obtained with warp yarns alone. By using the weft yarns of the present invention, there is no need to raise the yarns, so the warp yarns can be made thinner and lighter without impairing practicality. Due to the fine denier composite crimped yarn structure, even if the weft is thin, unlike normal filament, the fabric is not transparent, giving it the appearance of a dense fabric. In the case of Ny, unlike ordinary filaments, spunlike processed yarn absorbs the swelling effect of the yarn within the structural yarn, which weakens the ability to develop wrinkles, and is thought to facilitate a flat finish. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a flat finish by jet dyeing, which was previously considered impossible, and helps prevent uneven dyeing.

0010

【Example】

Example-1, Comparative Examples-1, -2 6-nylon with 80'/2 cotton for the warp and 70 denier 96 filament for the weft, each with an overfeed rate of 7%
Processed yarn (160 denier 192 filament) with loops subjected to turbulence disturbance treatment (yarn speed 250 m/min, air pressure 6 Kg/m2, nozzle: manufactured by Heberline) at 30% and 30%, warp density 135 threads/inch, Weaving was carried out under conditions of a weft density of 77 threads/inch, and the fabric was obtained by passing through the steps of spreading, relaxing scouring, intermediate setting, jet dyeing, and finishing setting (
Example-1). Also, for comparison, the warp is made of cotton 80'/2,
Triangular cross section of 140 denier 48 filament 6-
Nylon multifilament yarn was arranged and woven at a density of 135 yarns/inch in warp and 80 yarns/inch in weft.
A woven fabric was obtained through the same steps as in Example 1 (Comparative Example-1). or,
Comparative Example 2 was obtained by obtaining a woven fabric under the same conditions as in Example 1, except that 6-nylon of 70 denier 34 filaments was treated with turbulence in the weft. Table 1 shows the evaluation results for each fabric.

[0011]

[Table 1]

Example 2 In addition, when Example 2 was obtained by raising the material of Example 1 after intermediate setting, the texture and appearance were almost the same as those of Example 1, and the material was not raised. It became clear that a sufficient texture could be obtained with both (Example-1). Further, the warp tear strength was 700 to 1100 g for Example-2 and 1200 g for Example-1, so there was hardly any decrease in tear strength.

Example 3, Comparative Example 3 The fabric of Example 1 and the fabric of Comparative Example 1 were calendered at 120° C. at a speed of 10 m/min under a pressure of 8 tons/cm after finishing setting. Example-3, Comparative Example-3). The air permeability of the fabrics of Example-3 and Comparative Example-3 was 0.9, respectively.
cc/cm2 ・sec and 6cc/cm2 ・sec
It was revealed that the material of the present invention also has excellent windproof properties.

[0014]

[Effects of the Invention] According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric with a sufficiently thin brushed touch without raising the fabric, and it is possible to provide a fabric that has excellent functionality and can arbitrarily express a glossy feeling.

Claims (1)

[Claims] Claim 1: A spun yarn or a processed yarn having fluff and/or loops is arranged in the warp, and a single yarn denier is 1 in the weft.
．． A woven fabric made of multifilament processed yarn of 5 denier or less.