JP3536540B2 - Polyester spun knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric having a soft touch and feeling of a woolen tone and having an anti-pilling property, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Woven fabrics and knitted fabrics using short fiber spun yarns of synthetic fibers such as polyesters and acrylics have a soft touch and heat retention due to the fluffiness of the surface, and are widely used for clothing. Above all, a brushed woven or knitted fabric having a long fluff called spinning is a highly sensitive fabric having a natural cashmere or Angora-like smooth touch and touch due to extremely long fluff and high density.

[0003] Such spun woven or knitted fabrics are poor in strength and dimensional stability in natural cashmere and angora, and therefore, improvement and commercialization of spun polyester short fiber yarns having particularly high physical properties have been promoted. However, the spun fabric made of such short fiber woolen yarn has a long fluff, so that the fluff on the fabric surface is rubbed against the usual short fluff worsted knitted fabric during wearing or washing, and immediately a pill called a pilling is generated. However, it is well known that the quality and appearance of the fabric are greatly impaired and become a problem. This is because when the short fiber fluff on the surface of the fabric is rubbed, the fluff existing on the surface or the fluff is pulled out from the fabric and the fluff is entangled with each other. The entangled fluff is less likely to fall off, and synthetic fibers such as polyester having high fiber strength and elongation are particularly problematic.

The following countermeasures have been taken against the occurrence of a defect called "peach" of such pilling or mild pilling, but it is not sufficient.

(1) A method in which the strength and elongation of the fiber are reduced. A modified polyester in which polyethylene glycol or sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized with 5 to 10% by weight of the polyester has been proposed. Although these modified fibers have an anti-pill effect, they are inadequate due to problems such as weak fiber properties of the fiber main body and no improvement in fir tree.

(2) A method for increasing the tissue restraining force of the fabric. There is a method of using a high twist yarn in which the number of twists of the spun yarn is increased so that the surface of the fabric is not easily fluffed or a method of increasing the texture density of the fabric. However, there are problems such as a hard feeling and poor heat retention. .

(3) A method of embrittle surface fuzz. Zinc chloride on the surface fuzz of the fabric, JP-B-63-6670,
There is a method described in JP-A-57-25475 in which a brittle agent such as an amine is sprayed and heat-treated to embrittle the hair tips. However, uniform treatment is difficult, and excessive discharge is also caused. There is a problem that a liquid treatment facility is required and the treatment cannot be easily performed.

[0008] (4) A method of performing a hair burning process. This is a method applied to short-fluffed worsted woven or knitted fabrics, in which the fluff on the surface of the fabric is burnt with a gas burner during dyeing and finishing. However, it does not apply to long fuzzy woolen hair, and even if applied, the anti-pill effect is recognized as such,
Since fuzzy molten balls (melt balls) remain on the surface, there are problems such as rough texture, hardening due to heat treatment, and lack of heat retention.

(5) A method of processing a resin. There is a method of using a resin such as polyurethane resin, polyacrylic resin, or melamine resin to impregnate and fix the root of the fluff of the woven or knitted fabric to suppress pulling out of the fluff and increase the anti-pill property, but the bristle ends become short and smooth. There is a problem in that a rough touch is not obtained, and the hardness of the resin remains, resulting in a rough texture.

As described above, it is extremely difficult to obtain a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric which has advantages and disadvantages in all cases, and is soft and has a good fuzzy anti-pilling property, which has been a long-standing problem in the industry. .

In response to such a problem, the present inventors have found that the fluff shape and fluff on the fabric surface have a significant relationship with the anti-pilling property, and have reached the present invention.

[0012]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of polymer modification, hair sintering and resin processing, and to achieve a soft and soft cashmere touch.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester spun woven / knitted fabric having high heat retention and no physical property problems and excellent in anti-pilling properties, and a method for efficiently obtaining the same.

[0013]

To achieve the above object, the present invention has the following arrangement. That is, a spun knitted fabric containing polyester short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a single fiber strength of 2.5 g / d or more,
The surface fluff of the woven or knitted fabric does not have a molten ball by fuzzy processing,
A polyester spun woven or knitted fabric characterized by having an average fluff length of 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm or less and an average fluff density of 200 or more / cm.

The method for producing the woven or knitted fabric is characterized in that the spun woven or knitted fabric containing polyester short fiber having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a single fiber strength of 2.5 g / denier or more is brushed with a needle cloth. After processing, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is then beaten and rubbed on a supporting roller surface with a flexible rough surface material having a polishing film surface, and the average fluff length is at least 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm or more. The following is a method for producing a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric, which is finished so as to have an average fuzz density of 200 fibers / cm or more.

[0015]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.

The constituent fibers of the spun woven or knitted fabric of the present invention are not particularly limited as long as they are polyester short fibers, and 100% of polyester is particularly preferable so as to maximize the effects of the present invention. It is also preferable to blend ordinary polyester and cationic dye dyeable polyester to obtain a black effect or blend polyamide or polyacryl to impart smooth sliding. Further, it is also preferable to mix a small amount of rayon, cotton, hemp, wool or the like with the polyester in order to impart hygroscopicity.

In the present invention, another polyester may be partially mixed into the constituent fibers of the woven or knitted fabric.

The single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers of the present invention is 0.01
10 to 10 denier, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 7 denier. An ultrafine fiber having a density of less than 0.01 denier has difficulty in yarn production, and a fiber having a density of more than 10 denier is not preferred because the fiber is too thick to give a rough and hard feel.

The fiber length is set at 50 from the viewpoint of spinnability.
A size of about 70 mm is preferable.

The strength of the single fiber is preferably from 2.5 g / denier to 7.0 g / denier from the viewpoint of maintaining the strength of the main body of the woven or knitted fabric, and is preferably a conventional homopolymer polyester (with a strength of 4.5 to 5.5 g). / Denier) or a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 2 to 3% by weight of an alkylene glycol (strength 2.5 to 4.5 g / denier) can be preferably used.

As the copolymerized polyester, a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 2-8 mol% of trimellitic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc., in addition to alkylene glycol, further exhibits a soft feel and anti-pilling property. Therefore, it can be preferably applied.

When the strength is less than 2.5 g / denier, the strength of the whole fabric is reduced and the fluff is removed more frequently.
It is not preferable because the appearance is impaired. On the other hand, if the strength is higher than 7 g / d, the hand hardens, which is not preferable.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a surface brushed with a needle cloth. This is an important means for creating a long and dense surface fuzz as a woolen fiber and maximizing the effects of the present invention.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has at least a surface that is not subjected to sintering and has no molten balls. If there is a molten ball due to the hair sintering process, there are problems such as rough texture, hardness, and lack of heat retention.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention does not have at least an anti-pilling resin finish, and has no finish.
When the anti-pill finish is present, the texture becomes hard, and the original fluff is not smoothly touched, resulting in a rough texture.

Incidentally, the anti-pilling resin finishing agent referred to in the present invention is a polyurethane resin, a polyacryl resin, a melamine resin, or a fluororesin. Other surfactants such as antistatic agents and softeners, silicone finishes, and the like are out of scope and can be applied to the present invention.

The surface of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a fluff having a surface fluff length of at least 1.1 mm to 50 mm and an average fluff density of at least 200 fibers / cm. Those having a surface fluff length of less than 1.1 mm have an unsatisfactory feeling as a woolen fiber and are not preferred.
A fluff exceeding 0 mm is not preferable because it causes a lot of fluff and lowers surface quality, and it is difficult to produce it by ordinary raising means. From the viewpoint of the feeling effect, it is particularly preferably 1.5 mm or more and 30 mm or less. The fluff density is of such a fluff length, and is at least 200 fibers / cm or more.

At a fluff density of less than 200 fibers / cm, the number of fluffs is small, so that the ground portion of the woven or knitted fabric is transparent and the texture becomes thin and flaky. From the viewpoint of the feeling effect, those having a density of 250 to 500 lines / cm are particularly preferable.

The measurement of the average fuzz length and the average fuzz density according to the present invention is carried out as follows.

The spun woven or knitted fabric is folded in two, and the fluff shape on the folded straight line is referred to as “Micro Reader Printer 35”.
Using "00" (manufactured by Ricoh Co., Ltd.), light rays are applied from below to photograph the shadow of the fluff. If the fold is a woven fabric, the image is photographed at five locations in the warp direction and the weft direction, respectively. The fluff length and the number of fluffs are actually measured from the photograph, and the average fluff length (mm) and the average fluff density (book / cm) are determined from the average value. The photographing magnification is desirably 50 to 200 times.

FIG. 1 shows a photograph of the surface fluff state of the fabric showing one embodiment of the present invention evaluated by this method.

As a comparison, FIG. 2 shows a photograph of the state of the surface fluff before brushing and banging / rubbing treatment.

FIG. 1 shows an example of a woven fabric made of 100% polyester. It can be seen that the fluff length is long and the fluff density is high, and the anti-pilling properties are excellent in grades 4 to 5. The surface has no molten balls and no anti-pilling finish, and has a soft and soft feel (photographing magnification: 5
0 times). On the other hand, in the comparative example of FIG.
(102 lines / cm), the anti-pilling property was a problem in the first class.

In the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric is preferable because the effects of the present invention can be sufficiently exhibited. The woven fabric is preferably composed of spun spun yarn (100%), but a cross woven fabric using long fibers as warp yarns and spun yarns as weft yarns is also preferable since a soft and resilient hand can be obtained. Satin, venetian, mosser, twill, and the like are preferable because the woven fabric has excellent raised properties. The knitted fabric is preferable because the satin, the interlock, and the mock Milan rib structure exhibit a large effect.

The form of the constituent yarn of the fabric is not particularly limited as long as it is a polyester short fiber spun yarn (spun yarn), but a normal spun yarn is preferable because the effect can be greatly exerted. In addition, an alternately twisted yarn with a filament yarn or a finely spun twisted yarn is preferable because a yarn having a high resilience can be obtained.

The count of the spun yarn is preferably 12 to 80, and the number of twists is preferably in the range of 60 to 1500 turns / m.

As the raw cotton form of the constituent yarn, in addition to a normal round cross-section yarn, a hollow fiber is preferably used because it has a light weight feeling and a yarn mixed with titanium oxide particles has a property having a high drape property. In the method for producing the fabric of the present invention, the polyester spun woven or knitted fabric described above is scoured by a usual method, and then, before or after dyeing, a needle cloth is brushed. Since the fluff length of the needle cloth raising becomes slightly shorter due to the beating / rubbing treatment described later, it is preferable to raise the fluff to a longer length in consideration of this. Next, Japanese Patent Application No. Hei 4-30159 filed by the present inventors (Japanese Utility Model Application No.
89490) can be processed reasonably efficiently. Note that ordinary buffing and sanding are grindings using an emery roll or an emery belt, and in particular, an anti-pill effect is not obtained and cannot be applied.

The method of Japanese Utility Model Application No. Hei 4-30159 will be briefly described. The spun knitted fabric is beaten and rubbed with a flexible rough surface material having a polishing film surface on a support roller surface. It is a method of processing and finishing. The rough surface material is a sharp blade-like material having a metal plate laminated thereon and having a sharply reduced thickness toward the tip, and is used to treat the fabric surface by rotating the blade.

The rotation speed of the rough surface material is 150 to 400 rpm,
9-30 blades / drum, 2-4 drums,
Working tension (vertical direction): 8-30 g / mm, rubbing pressure: 2
The processing is preferably performed at 0 to 60 g / mm, the abrasive particle size is # 800 to # 320, and the processing speed is 5 to 20 m / min. The processing is a single-sided continuous processing, and the processing can be performed efficiently with no problem in uniformity and quality of processing.

The point of this treatment method is to cut the long and rough fluff of the nap cloth with a sharp rough surface material while strongly pulling it out, and at the same time, cut and remove the loops and fiber stiffness, and a new slightly shorter and denser one. The surface is created by generating fluff. In other words, "play hair" on the very surface
By removing these, only "strong hair" is created, the rub resistance is enhanced and the anti-pilling property is imparted. Therefore, it is an important requirement that the rough surface material is formed by laminating a metal plate having a small thickness and a high rigidity, and using a “strong” rough surface material having a polishing agent (polishing film) on its surface. Assuming that such a rough surface material is used, the conditions for controlling the strength of the processing include the particle size of the abrasive, the number of the rough surface material, the number of rotations, and the number of times of processing. ) Is a preferable method because stable processing can be obtained.

The finish after the beating / rubbing treatment is finished without scalding or anti-pilling resin processing.

As described above, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the fluff on the surface is specified by physical processing. This makes it possible to obtain a woolen or knitted fabric having a high heat retention and excellent pilling with a soft and soft cashmere touch without deteriorating the physical properties of the fabric body.

[0043]

EXAMPLES The performance of the fabrics in the examples was evaluated by the following methods.

(1) Anti-pilling property The raised surface of the fabric is evaluated in accordance with the pilling test method for woven fabric and knitted fabric according to JIS L1076. However, the woven fabric is treated for 10 hours and the knitted fabric is treated for 5 hours, and the occurrence of pills on the treated cloth is evaluated on a 5-point scale.

[0045] Class 5 Very little pilling, very good Good pilling Class 3 The occurrence of pilling is considerable. Class 2 Many occurrences of pilling, slightly poor Class 1 pilling is remarkably large and defective (2) Hand The feeling of the fabric was sensory evaluated in the following four stages.

●: Soft, slippery, warm, very good ○: Soft, slippery, warm, good △: rough, hard feel × … Grassiness and hard feeling are strong and extremely poor (3) Measurement of average fluff length and average fluff density Except that the photographing magnification was changed at 108 times, the fluff on the brushed surface was measured by the measurement method described in the specification. Was evaluated.

(4) Heat retention The heat retention is represented by the clo value method proposed by APGagge, AC Burton et al. The larger the value, the warmer and better.

Clo = (1 / K) /0.18 where, thermal resistance: 1 / K (m ² hr ° C./Kcal)=6.54
× (40−t) / b b: energization time when the test piece was attached (sec / hr) t: outside air temperature indicated by the measuring machine (° C.) (5) The tear strength of the strong fabric was tested according to JIS L-1096. According to the method, the woven fabric was evaluated for the strength (kg) of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, respectively.

The knitted fabric has a burst strength (kg / cm ² ) according to JIS L
It was evaluated according to the test method of -1018. The higher the values of tear strength and burst strength, the higher the physical properties and the better.

Example 1 <Manufacture of Cloth> Single fiber of polyester raw cotton having a denier of 2.0 denier, a cut length of 64 mm and a single fiber strength of 4.8 g / d (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was spun by a conventional method. A single spun yarn was obtained (twist number: 600 turns / m). Next, this spun yarn is used for warp and weft yarns, and the warp density is 64 / inch and the weft density is 6
The fabric was woven into a satin woven fabric at 7 pieces / inch.

Then, it was scoured according to a conventional method, dyed with a gray disperse dye, and dried. After drying, the surface of the fabric was brushed eight times with a needle cloth raising machine (manufactured by Tom Rimson (Germany)). <Processing of Cloth> Next, the surface of the obtained brushed woven fabric was subjected to the treatment method presented in the above-mentioned Japanese Utility Model Application No. Hei 4-30159, and the grain number of the rough surface material was changed to # 600 (condition 1) and # 800 (condition 2). )
In the following conditions, tapping and rubbing treatment was performed.

A. Rough surface material for rubbing: polishing film (abrasive grain: silicon carbide, grain number: above conditions): metal plate (SK steel, thickness 0.08 mm x 2, 0.15 mm x 1, 1.0 mm x 1, 3 layers in total): Shape (sharp tip): Size (Thickness 1.31 mm, length 122 mm, width 1600 mm) b. Number of rough surface materials attached: 9 per drum c. Number of rough surface drums: 2 d. Rotation speed of rough body: 220 rpm e. Working tension: 20 g / mm f. Scraping pressure: 25 g / mm g. Processing speed: 6.0 m / min h. Treatment form: Continuous spreading treatment (single-sided treatment) After the treatment, the fabric was finished according to the usual method without sintering or anti-pilling resin treatment (fabric width: 155 cm, warp yarn density 74 / inch, weft yarn density 74 / inch).

The performance of the finished product was evaluated in accordance with the evaluation method described above, except that the fluff was photographed at a magnification of 108 and the anti-pilling time was 10 hours. Table 1 shows the results.

[0054]

[Table 1] Comparative Example 1 Finishing process according to Example 1 except that a conventional anti-pilling resin process (polyurethane resin, resin adhesion 1.5 wt%, pad / cure method) was applied instead of the processing method of Example 1. It is an example of a woven fabric.

Comparative Example 2 A conventional buffing process (# 60) was performed in place of the processing method of Example 1.
0, emery roll, processing speed 6m / min, number of treatments 1
9 is an example of a woven fabric that has been finished according to Example 1, except for the application of the times.

Table 1 also shows the evaluation results of the woven fabrics of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2.

The polyester spun woven fabric of the present invention comprises:
As shown in Table 1, in both conditions 1 and 2, a soft and soft cashmere touch was obtained, and a gray woolen satin fabric showing excellent properties with excellent anti-pilling properties (grades 4 to 5) was obtained. Was done. In addition, there was no problem in the heat retention and strong physical properties of the woven fabric, and the treatment of the woven fabric could be performed smoothly.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, a large number of polyurethane resins were present, and the hardness of the resin remained.
And the anti-pilling property was a problem. Comparative Example 2 had a problem in that the level of anti-pilling property was low.

Example 2 A polyester filament and spun mixed woven fabric, in which the weft yarn is the polyester spun spun yarn of Example 1, and the warp yarn is a polyester multifilament yarn (Woolie yarn) of 150 denier and 48 filaments. Finished according to Example 1 except used (finish width:
153cm, warp yarn density 75 yarns / inch, weft yarn density 76 yarns /
inch).

Table 2 shows the finishing results.

[0061]

[Table 2] Comparative Example 3 This is an example of a fabric finished according to Example 2 except that the anti-pill treatment of Example 2 is not applied.

As shown in Table 2, the polyester spun / filament mixed woven fabric of the present invention was a fine woolen fabric having a soft cashmere touch and excellent anti-pilling property (grade 5). There was no problem in heat retention and strength, and fabric treatment could be performed efficiently.

On the other hand, Comparative Example 3 was a woven fabric having a low level of anti-pilling property, a coarse fluff, and an ordinary feeling.

Example 3 Polyester fiber "Tetron" (registered trademark of Toray Industries, Inc.), single fiber fineness of 3 denier, cut length of 64 mm, single fiber strength of 5.0 g / d were spun alone, and a # 30 double yarn was spun. Obtained. Next, the knitted fabric was knitted with a smooth structure on a circular knitted fabric. The knitted fabric was further scoured by a conventional method, and brushed with a cloth by the processing method of Example 1.
The rough body was subjected to beating and rubbing as grain number # 600. Then, it was dyed, dried and finished.

The obtained polyester spun knitted fabric has an average fluff length of 5.6 mm, has a fluff density of an average fluff density of 462 / cm, has an anti-pilling property of class 4-5, and is very soft. It was a smooth and unique knit.

The heat retention (clo value: 0.77) was high, and the burst strength (5.2 kg / cm ² ) was high.

Example 4 A copolyester raw cotton obtained by copolymerizing 1.3% by weight of trimethyl trimellitate and 1.0% by weight of dimethyl isophthalate as a polyester has a single fiber fineness of 3.0 denier, a cut length of 76 mm, Evaluation was made according to Example 1 except that the fiber strength was changed to 2.8 g / denier.

As a result, the fluff has a surface fluff length of 2.92 mm, a fluff with an average fluff density of 262 lines / cm, a pilling resistance of class 5, a clo value of 0.81, and a tear strength of vertical. The weight of the yarn was 4.0 kg and the weight of the weft was 2.1 kg.

[0069]

【The invention's effect】

(1) Excellent pilling resistance. Basically, it has high performance of 4th grade or higher.

(2) There is no generation of fake. No surface fake defects due to hair entanglement in the initial stage of pilling occur.

(3) High durability of anti-pilling property, excellent wear resistance for a long time and excellent washing resistance. (4) Soft, soft touch and warm cashmere touch. It has a soft and distinctive feel compared to the rough feel of molten balls from the conventional sintering process or the hard texture of resin processing.

(5) High physical properties. Only the surface treatment of the fabric surface is sufficient, and the strength of the fabric body is not reduced.

(6) For fibers such as polyester and polyacryl, which have high fiber strength and tend to be easily pilled,
Especially effective.

(7) Similarly, the effect of improving the pilling is high with respect to a napping cloth having a low pilling level, such as a woolen cloth having a long fluff and a high fluff density.

(8) Processing can be easily performed. There is no need to apply hair sintering or resin processing, and the spun fabric of the present invention can be obtained by simply and efficiently treating.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a photograph showing an example of a fiber shape of a surface fluff of a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a photograph showing a shape of a fiber of a surface fluff of a conventional woven or knitted fabric.

[Explanation of symbols]

1: Fluff

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (58) Fields surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06C 27/00 D06C 15/14 D06C 23/02 D03D 25/00

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A spun knitted fabric containing polyester single fibers having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 to 10 denier and a single fiber strength of 2.5 g / denier or more is subjected to a needle cloth brushing process, and then the surface of the woven knitted fabric is polished. A flexible rough surface material having a film surface, which is beaten and rubbed on a supporting roller surface, and the average fluff length is at least 1.1 mm or more and 50 mm or more.
A method for producing a polyester-spun woven or knitted fabric, wherein finishing is performed so as to have an average fuzz density of 200 fibers / cm or more. 2. A method of beating and rubbing, wherein long and rough fluff on a brushed surface of a needled cloth is cut while strongly pulling out with a flexible rough surface material having a polishing film surface, and a loop or fiber solidification is performed. Ri cut, removed, and characterized in that to generate a new slightly shorter dense fluff claim 1
3. The method for producing a polyester spun woven or knitted fabric according to item 1.