JPWO2010029769A1 - 透明ゲル化粧料及びゲル化剤 - Google Patents
透明ゲル化粧料及びゲル化剤 Download PDFInfo
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- JPWO2010029769A1 JPWO2010029769A1 JP2010528662A JP2010528662A JPWO2010029769A1 JP WO2010029769 A1 JPWO2010029769 A1 JP WO2010029769A1 JP 2010528662 A JP2010528662 A JP 2010528662A JP 2010528662 A JP2010528662 A JP 2010528662A JP WO2010029769 A1 JPWO2010029769 A1 JP WO2010029769A1
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- Prior art keywords
- acid
- oil
- transparent gel
- poe
- ether
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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Abstract
Description
本願は、2008年9月12日に、日本に出願された特願2008−235068号に基づき優先権を主張し、その内容をここに援用する。
例えば、これまでに、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、セルロース誘導体及び油分を含有する透明化粧料(特許文献1参照)、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル及び油分を含有する透明化粧料(特許文献2参照)が開示されている。これらは、従来の透明化粧料が有する、塗布時にのびが重い、塗布時にポロポロするような性状を示し、塗布後の仕上がりが十分ではない、経時で透明性が低下する、などの使用上及び透明性の問題点を解決したものとされている。
本発明は、グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物と、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸と、油分とを含有することを特徴とする透明ゲル化粧料を提供する。
本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、前記12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸を4〜20質量%、前記エステル化反応生成物を1〜15質量%含有することが好ましい。
また、本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、前記12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸及び前記エステル化反応生成物の質量比が20:1〜1:2であることが好ましい。
また、本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、水酸基価が40〜300であり、かつ常温で液体であるエステル油を、前記油分として20質量%以上含有することが好ましい。
本発明は、グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物と、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸とを含有することを特徴とするゲル化剤を提供する。
本発明は、上記本発明のゲル化剤と油分とを含有することを特徴とする透明ゲル化粧料を提供する。
本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物と、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸と、油分とを含有することを特徴とする。
上記のように、特開2000−204016号公報に記載されている透明化粧料は、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、セルロース誘導体及び油分を含有し、特開2001−39817号公報に記載されている透明化粧料は、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル及び油分を含有するが、いずれも硬度が低い。また、特開2008−31102号公報に記載されているゲル化剤は、グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物を含有するが、油分に配合しても、やはり硬度は低い。したがって、前記透明化粧料において、セルロース誘導体又はデキストリン脂肪酸エステルに代わり、前記ゲル化剤が含有するエステル化反応生成物を使用して、本発明の透明ゲル化粧料と類似の構成としても、得られる透明化粧料の硬度は、通常であれば高くなるとは考えられない。また、特開平7−126604号公報に記載の、同様のゲル化剤を油分に配合しても透明にはならないので、前記透明化粧料において、セルロース誘導体又はデキストリン脂肪酸エステルに代わり、前記ゲル化剤が含有するエステル化反応生成物を使用しても、得られる化粧料が必ずしも透明になるとは考え難い。
しかし、本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、このような予想とは反対に、全く意外にも、透明性及び硬度が高く、しかも使用性が良好なものである。
12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸は、市販品を使用して良いし、化学合成して使用しても良い。また、特定の原料を化学処理して得られたものでも良く、このようなものとして、リシノール酸に水素添加して得られたものや、水添ヒマシ油を加水分解して得られたものが例示できる。
また、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸は、一種でも良く二種以上でも良い。二種以上である場合には、その組み合わせ及び比率は、目的に応じて適宜選択すれば良い。
また、炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸は、一種でも良く二種以上でも良い。二種以上である場合には、その組み合わせ及び比率は、目的に応じて適宜選択すれば良い。
市販品であれば、好適なものとして、(ベヘン酸/イソステアリン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル(商品名:ノムコートSG、日清オイリオグループ社製)、(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル(商品名:ノムコートHK−G、日清オイリオグループ社製)が例示できる。
また化学合成して使用する場合には、所望の炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸、炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)及びグリセリンを原料として使用し、公知の方法でエステル化反応を行って得られたものを使用すれば良い。
また、配合するエステル化反応生成物は、一種でも良く二種以上でも良い。二種以上である場合には、その組み合わせ及び比率は、目的に応じて適宜選択すれば良い。
上記の水酸基価が40〜300であり、かつ常温で液体であるエステル油としては、好ましいものとして、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、イソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、トリイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、(イソステアリン酸/セバシン酸)ジトリメチロールプロパンオリゴエステル、トリエチルヘキサン酸ジトリメチロールプロパン、トリエチルヘキサン酸エリスリチル、ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル、ヒマシ油等が例示できる。
本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、水酸基価が40〜300であり、かつ常温で液体であるエステル油を、好ましくは20質量%以上、より好ましくは30質量%以上、特に好ましくは40〜60質量%含有することで、特に優れた効果を発揮する。
そして、本発明のゲル化剤は、本発明におけるエステル化反応生成物、すなわち、グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物と、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸とを含有することを特徴とする。
本発明のゲル化剤を前記油分と混合して使用することにより、透明性及び硬度が高く、使用性が良好な透明ゲル化粧料を製造することができる。
本発明のゲル化剤の構成成分である、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸及び本発明におけるエステル化反応生成物の質量比(12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸:本発明におけるエステル化反応生成物の質量比)は、上記のように、20:1〜1:2であることが好ましく、10:1〜1:1であることがより好ましく、5:1〜1:1であることがより好ましく、5:1〜2:1であることが特に好ましい。
また、前記半合成の水溶性高分子としては、カルボキシメチルデンプン、メチルヒドロキシプロピルデンプン等のデンプン系高分子、メチルセルロース、ニトロセルロース、メチルヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、セルロース硫酸ナトリウム、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロースナトリウム、結晶セルロース、セルロース末等のセルロース系高分子;アルギン酸ナトリウム、アルギン酸プロピレングリコールエステル等のアルギン酸系高分子等が例示できる。
また、前記合成の水溶性高分子としては、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルメチルエーテル、ポリビニルピロリドン、カルボキシビニルポリマー(カーボポール)等のビニル系高分子;ポリエチレングリコール20000、40000、60000等のポリオキシエチレン系高分子;ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレン共重合体共重合系高分子、ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム、ポリエチルアクリレート、ポリアクリルアミド等のアクリル系高分子;ポリエチレンイミン;カチオンポリマー等が例示できる。
また、前記無機の水溶性高分子としては、ベントナイト、ケイ酸AlMg(ビーガム)、ラポナイト、ヘクトライト、無水ケイ酸等が例示できる。
また、前記低級アルコールとしては、メタノール、エタノール、プロパノール、イソプロパノール、イソブチルアルコール、t−ブチルアルコール等が例示できる。
また、前記多価アルコールとしては、エチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、トリメチレングリコール、1,2−ブチレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、テトラメチレングルコール、2,3−ブチレングルコール、ペンタメチレングルコール、2−ブテン−1,4−ジオール、ヘキシレングリコール、オクチレングリコール等の2価のアルコール;グリセリン、トリメチロールプロパン、1,2,6−ヘキサントリオール等の3価のアルコール;ペンタエリスリトール等の4価アルコール;キシリトール等の5価アルコール;ソルビトール、マンニトール等の6価アルコール;ジエチレングリコール、ジプロピレングリコール、トリエチレングルコール、ポリプロピレングリコール、テトラエチレングリコール、ジグリセリン、ポリエチレングリコール、トリグリセリン、テトラグリセリン、ポリグリセリン等の多価アルコール重合体;エチレングリコールモノメチルエーテル、エチレングルコールモノエチルエーテル、エチレングリコールモノブチルエーテル、エチレングリコールモノフェニルエーテル、エチレングリコールモノヘキシルエーテル、エチレングリコールモノ2−メチルヘキシルエーテル、エチレングリコールイソアミルエーテル、エチレングリコールベンジルエーテル、エチレングリコールイソプロピルエーテル、エチレングリコールジメチルエーテル、エチレングリコールジエチルエーテル、エチレングリコールジブチルエーテル等の2価のアルコールアルキルエーテル類;ジエチレングリコールモノメチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールモノブチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールジメチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールジエチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールブチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールメチルエチルエーテル、トリエチレングリコールモノメチルエーテル、トリエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテル、プロピレングリコールモノメチルエーテル、プロピレングリコールモノエチルエーテル、プロピレングリコールモノブチルエーテル、プロピレングリコールイソプロピルエーテル、ジプロピレングリコールメチルエーテル、ジプロピレングリコールエチルエーテル、ジプロピレングリコールブチルエーテル等の2価アルコールアルキルエーテル類;エチレングリコールモノメチルエーテルアセテート、エチレングリコールモノエチルエーテルアセテート、エチレングリコールモノブチルエーテルアセテート、エチレングリコールモノフェニルエーテルアセテート、エチレングリコールジアジベート、エチレングリコールジサクシネート、ジエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテルアステート、ジエチレングリコールモノブチルエーテルアセテート、プロピレングリコールモノメチルエーテルアセテート、プロピレングリコールモノエチルエーテルアセテート、プロピレングリコールモノプロピルエーテルアセテート、プロピレングリコールモノフェニルエーテルアセテート等の2価アルコールエーテルエステル;キシルアルコール、セラキルアルコール、バチルアルコール等のグリセリンモノアルキルエーテル;ソルビトール、マルチトール、マルトトリオース、マンニトール、ショ糖、エリトリトール、グルコース、フルクトース、デンプン分解糖、マルトース、キシリトース、デンプン分解糖還元アルコール等の糖アルコール;グリソリッド、テトラハイドロフルフリルアルコール、POE−テトラハイドロフルフリルアルコール、POP−ブチルエーテル、POP・POE−ブチルエーテル、トリポリオキシプロピレングリセリンエーテル、POP−グリセリンエーテル、POP−グリセリンエーテルリン酸、POP・POE−ペンタンエリスリトールエーテル等が例示できる。
配合時には、本発明のゲル化剤、すなわち、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸及び本発明におけるエステル化反応生成物の混合物を、油分に添加することが好ましい。
加熱溶解時の温度は、特に限定されず、配合成分等に応じて調整すれば良いが、通常、90℃以下で十分であり、75〜85℃程度であることが好ましい。本発明においては、その配合成分の組み合わせにより、例えば95℃以上のような高温に加熱しなくても、各配合成分を溶解させることができ、特に油分等の劣化を防止でき、高品質な化粧料とすることができる。
具体的には、後記する実施例における「破断強度」を例に採ると、前記混合物の配合量が10質量%以上である場合には破断強度が140以上、前記配合量が12質量%以上である場合には破断強度が175以上、前記配合量が15質量%以上である場合には破断強度が200以上、前記配合量が20質量%以上である場合には破断強度が300以上のものが、それぞれ好適に得られる。そして、本発明の透明ゲル化粧料は、例えば、室温程度で1ヶ月程度保存した後でも、高い硬度を維持できる。
さらには、硬度が高く、ゲル化粧料として優れた品質を有するものである。
また、以下に示す各成分の配合量は、特に断りがない限り「質量%」を示すものとする。
<透明ゲル化粧料の製造>
表1〜5に示す配合比で、油分にゲル化剤(12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸及び本発明におけるエステル化反応生成物の混合物)を添加し、80℃で加熱溶解させて全体を均一化させた後、これを金型に流し込み、0℃に冷却して直径12mmの筒状に成型することで、透明ゲル化粧料を得た。ただし、比較例2のみ、油分とデキストリン脂肪酸エステルとを、95℃に加熱して溶融させた後、これに12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸を添加したこと以外は、上記と同様に透明ゲル化粧料を得た。なお、表中の「−」は未配合又は対象外であることを示す。
※1;日清オイリオグループ社製、商品名:ノムコートSG
※2;日清オイリオグループ社製、商品名:ノムコートHK−G
※3;千葉製粉社製、商品名:レオパールKL
※4;日清オイリオグループ社製 商品名:コスモール222(水酸基価:80)
※5;信越化学社製、商品名:KF56(水酸基価:0)
※6;日清オイリオグループ社製、商品名:コスモール43(水酸基価:47)
※7;日清オイリオグループ社製、商品名:サラコス5418(水酸基価:1)
なお、※4〜7の原料は、全て常温で液体である。
また、「(ベヘン酸/イソステアリン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル」とは、「グリセリン、ベヘン酸、イソステアリン酸及びエイコサン二酸を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物」のことを示し、「(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル」とは、「グリセリン、ベヘン酸及びエイコサン二酸」を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物」のことを示す。
得られた各透明ゲル化粧料について、25℃で1ヶ月保存した後の破断強度、硬度、透明性、塗布後の状態を評価した。評価結果を表1〜5に示す。各項目の評価は、下記方法及び評価基準に従って行った。
透明ゲル化粧料を20℃で1時間静置し、レオメーター(不動産業社製)を使用して、試料を直径3mmのプランジャーで架台速度60mm/分で押し込み、応力の最大値を測定して破断強度とした。硬度の評価基準は下記の通りである。実施例1〜7については比較例1を、実施例8〜10については比較例5を、実施例11については比較例6を、実施例12〜7については比較例8を、それぞれ標準比較例とし、下記関係式に従って評価した。式中、Xは実施例、又は標準比較例以外の比較例の硬度、Yは標準比較例の硬度である。
A:破断強度が比較例1よりも高い(1.2<X/Y)
B:破断強度が比較例1と同等である(0.8≦X/Y≦1.2)
C:破断強度が比較例1よりも低い(0.5≦X/Y<0.8)
D:破断強度が比較例1よりも極めて低い(X/Y<0.5)
試料の入ったガラス瓶を通して、前記ガラス瓶から0.5cm離れた距離にある、ひらがなの「あ」の字(文字の大きさ:1cm四方)の判読の容易性により、透明性を評価した。透明性の評価基準は下記の通りである。
A:はっきり判読できる
B:曇りがあるが判読できる
C:文字があることはわかるが判読できない
D:文字の存在が確認できない
試料を金型に流し込んでスティック状化粧料を作製し、口唇に塗布した後、スティックの塗布面におけるくずれの状態を評価した。評価基準は下記の通りである。
A:表面のくずれがない
B:表面のくずれがほとんどない
C:表面のくずれがやや目立つ
D:表面のくずれが非常に目立つ
Claims (6)
- グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物と、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸と、油分とを含有することを特徴とする透明ゲル化粧料。
- 前記12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸を4〜20質量%、前記エステル化反応生成物を1〜15質量%含有することを特徴とする請求項1に記載の透明ゲル化粧料。
- 前記12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸及び前記エステル化反応生成物の質量比が20:1〜1:2であることを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載の透明ゲル化粧料。
- 水酸基価が40〜300であり、かつ常温で液体であるエステル油を、前記油分として20質量%以上含有することを特徴とする請求項1〜3のいずれか一項に記載の透明ゲル化粧料。
- グリセリン、炭素数18〜28の二塩基酸及び炭素数8〜28の脂肪酸(ただし、二塩基酸を除く)を反応させることにより得られるエステル化反応生成物と、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸とを含有することを特徴とするゲル化剤。
- 請求項5に記載のゲル化剤と油分とを含有することを特徴とする透明ゲル化粧料。
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JP5613564B2 (ja) | 2014-10-22 |
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US20150087726A1 (en) | 2015-03-26 |
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