JP4592911B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

【００３８】
表１の結果から明らかな通り、本発明のストロビランセス属植物抽出物は、紫外線暴露に基づく皮膚への色素沈着を顕著に抑止する効果を有する。
試験例３ 皮膚刺激性評価試験
眼粘膜刺激性試験の代替法である培養ウサギ角膜細胞（ＳＩＲＣ）を用いたニュートラルレッド取り込み試験により、各種美白成分の皮膚刺激性を評価した。
【００３９】
［試料］
（１）製造例５の抽出物粉末
（２）コウジ酸
（３）アルブチン
【００４０】
［試験方法］
ＳＩＲＣを９６穴マイクロプレートに５０００個／穴播種し、５％仔牛血清含有イーグル最少必須培地（ＭＥＭ）で３日間培養した後、これに試料を０．２％の濃度となるように添加し、さらに２日間培養した。次に、ＳＩＲＣを０．０５％ニュートラルレッド（ＮＲ）含有イーグルＭＥＭ培地で３時間培養し、ここに得られたＳＲＩＣについてＮＲの取り込み率を求め、その値から各試料の皮膚刺激性を評価した。
【００４１】
［結果］
結果を表２に示す。
【表２】

【００４２】
表２に示す通り、本発明のストロビランセス属植物抽出物は、既存の美白剤に比べて皮膚に対する刺激性が少なく、安全性にすぐれた化粧料を提供することが可能である。
【００４３】
試験例４ モニターテスト
実施例１、比較例及び対照例の各クリームについて、モニターテストにより皮膚色素沈着に対する抑制効果並びに皮膚刺激性を調べた。
［試験方法］
無作為に抽出した年齢１８〜５０歳の女性２０名を被験者とし、各クリームを１日２回（朝、晩）、1ヵ月間左上腕部にそれぞれ塗布し、塗布部の色素沈着の状態及び皮膚の紅斑を目視で観察し、以下の評価基準に基づいて評価した。
【００４４】
［評価基準］
（色素沈着）
Ａ：なくなった
Ｂ：明らかに少なくなった
Ｃ：いくらか少なくなった
Ｄ：殆ど変化がなかった
Ｅ：かえって多くなった
（紅斑）
A：対照例と差がない
B：対照例と殆ど差がない
Ｃ：対照例に比べて多少紅斑が目立つ
Ｄ：対照例に比べて相当紅斑が目立つ
Ｅ：対照例に比べて明らかに紅斑が目立つ
【００４５】
［結果］
結果を表３に示す。
【００４６】
【表３】

【００４７】
表３に示す通り、本発明のストロビランセス属植物抽出物を配合したクリームは、すぐれた色素沈着防止効果を具え、しかも皮膚に対する刺激が少なく安全性が高い。
【００４８】
【発明の効果】
キツネノマゴ科ストロビランセス属に属する植物の抽出物を配合してなる本発明の化粧料は、有効成分の上記抽出物の有する強いチロシナーゼ活性抑制作用により、シミ、ソバカスなど皮膚の色素沈着を顕著に抑制或は軽減すると共に、該抽出物が天然物由来のものであるため皮膚に対する刺激が少なく安全性にすぐれている。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】図１は、試験例１の各試料のドーパ値を示すグラフである（縦軸：ドーパ値）。
【図２】図２は、試験例１の各試料のＭＴＴ値を示すグラフである（縦軸：ＭＴＴ値）。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to cosmetics that exhibit excellent whitening and skin-beautifying action on skin and are useful as basic cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, bath preparations and the like.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Various whitening agents have been proposed and formulated for the purpose of preventing or ameliorating pigmentation caused by sunburn or aging, especially spots and freckles, and maintaining the skin in a beautiful and healthy state. Cosmetics that have been put on the market. However, with these conventional whitening agents, it is difficult to sufficiently satisfy both the whitening and skin-beautifying effects and the skin safety, and there is a need for new cosmetics containing the whitening agent with improved such points as an active ingredient. It has been.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
In light of the problems of the prior art, the present inventors have conducted intensive research to find a new whitening active ingredient derived from a natural product from the viewpoint of skin safety. As a result, extracts of specific plants described below are remarkable. The present inventors have found that a tyrosinase activity-inhibiting action can be provided, and that this makes it possible to provide cosmetics with excellent whitening / skin-beautifying effects and skin safety, thereby completing the present invention.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
That is, the present invention is a whitening cosmetic characterized by blending an extract of a plant belonging to the genus Stroviranses as a tyrosinase activity inhibitory action component .
[0005]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
Examples of the plant belonging to the genus Strobilances used in the present invention include Strobilanthes crisupus L, Strobiranthes urticifolius L, Strobilanthes cusia L, Strobilanthes cernuus L, Strobiranthes aliganthus L, Strobilanthes wakasanus L, Strobilanthes glandulifer L, Strobilanthes tashiroi L. Among them, the use of Strobillanes krispass is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of effectiveness.
[0006]
Preparation of the extracts of the plants belonging to the genus Strobilances used appropriate parts of the plant body such as whole grass, leaves, stems, roots and seeds, preferably leaves, which were generally washed, dried and shredded in advance. It is carried out by immersing in an extraction solvent.
Here, the extraction solvent is water; lower alcohols such as methanol, ethanol and propanol; polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerine; ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and methyl propionate. Esters such as acetone; ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; ethers such as ethyl ether and isopropyl ether; hydrocarbon solvents such as n-hexane, toluene and chloroform, among which water or water and lower It is preferable to use a mixed solution of alcohols or a mixed solution of water and polyhydric alcohols.
[0007]
Although the extraction temperature and time vary depending on the type of plant used, the degree of shredding, the type of extraction solvent, etc., it is generally extracted at 5 to 80 ° C. for 2 hours to 7 days, particularly at 20 to 40 ° C. for 6 to 48 hours. It is good to do. The extract solution obtained here is usually used as an appropriate concentration by adjusting the pH to 4-8, as it is or by concentration under reduced pressure. In some cases, it may be used after being powdered according to a conventional method such as spray drying or freeze drying.
[0008]
The amount of the above extract in the cosmetic of the present invention is generally 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.5% in the case of basic cosmetics such as creams, milky lotions and lotions as the solid content concentration. In the case of makeup cosmetics such as blusher and white powder, it is generally in the range of 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, and in the case of a bath preparation, In general, it is in the range of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight.
[0009]
The cosmetics of the present invention include, in addition to essential stroviranthes plant extracts, ingredients usually used in cosmetics, such as oily ingredients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, antiseptic / disinfectants, Powder components, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, pigments, fragrances and the like are appropriately blended as necessary.
[0010]
Here, as the oily component, for example, oils derived from plants such as olive oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, soybean oil, coconut oil, palm oil, cacao oil, and meadowweed oil; derived from animals such as mink oil and turtle oil Fats and oils; waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax and lanolin; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, paraffin wax and squalane; fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and isostearic acid; lauryl alcohol; Examples include higher alcohols such as cetanol and stearyl alcohol; synthetic esters such as isopropyl myristate, butyl oleate, and 2-ethylhexyl glyceride, and synthetic triglycerides.
[0011]
Examples of the surfactant include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters; fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates, polyoxyethylene fatty amine sulfates, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfates, Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, α-sulfonated fatty acid alkyl ester salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether phosphates, Quaternary ammonium salt, primary to tertiary fatty amine salt, trialkylbenzylammonium salt, alkylpyridinium salt, 2-alkyl-1-alkyl-1-hydroxyethylimidazolinium salt, N Cationic surfactants such as N, N-dialkylmorphonium salt, polyethylene polyamine fatty acid amide salt; N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxymethylammoniobetaine, N, N, N-trialkyl-N- Examples include amphoteric surfactants such as alkylene ammoniocarboxybetaine, N-acylamidopropyl-N ′, and N′-dimethyl-N′-β-hydroxypropylammoniosulfobetaine.
[0012]
Examples of the humectant include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, pyrrolidone carboxyl sodium and the like, and sugars, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, urea, higher fatty acid octyldodecyl. And various amino acids and derivatives thereof.
[0013]
Examples of the thickener include polysaccharides such as carrageenan, alginic acid, pectin and locust bean gum; gums such as xanthan gum, tragacanth gum and guar gum; cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose; polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and carboxyvinyl polymer And synthetic polymers such as acrylic acid / methacrylic acid copolymer; hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof.
[0014]
Examples of antiseptic fungicides include urea; paraoxybenzoates such as methyl paraoxybenzoate, ethyl paraoxybenzoate, propyl paraoxybenzoate, and butyl paraoxybenzoate; phenoxyethanol, dichlorophene, hexachlorophene, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, benzalkco chloride Examples include nium, salicylic acid, ethanol, undecylenic acid, phenols, and jamal (imidazodenyl urea).
[0015]
Examples of the powder component include sericite, titanium oxide, talc, kaolin, bentonite, zinc oxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, barium sulfate, silicic anhydride, mica, and nylon powder.
[0016]
Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include ethyl paraaminobenzoate, ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, amyl salicylate and derivatives thereof, ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, octyl cinnamate, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone- 5-sulfonate, 2- (2-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl) benzotriazole, urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate and the like.
[0017]
Examples of the antioxidant include butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene, propyl gallate, vitamin E and derivatives thereof.
In addition, lecithins, silk-related substances and the like can be blended as other components.
[0018]
The cosmetic of the present invention may further contain other physiologically active ingredients as long as the effectiveness of the combination component of the present invention is not impaired. Examples of such compounds include kojic acid and derivatives thereof (for example, kojic acid esters such as kojic acid monobutyrate, kojic acid monocaprate, kojic acid monopalmitate, kojic acid dibutyrate or kojic acid ethers), arbutin, ascorbine, etc. Acids and derivatives thereof [for example, ascorbic acid esters such as L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate and L-ascorbic acid-2-sulfate (salts are sodium salt, magnesium salt, etc.); L-ascorbic acid Ascorbic acid coordination such as 2-glucoside (2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid), L-ascorbic acid-5-glucoside (5-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid) Sugars, etc.], ellagic acid, resorcinol derivatives (for example, 4 Whitening ingredients such as n-butylresorcinol, 4-isoamylresorcinol), Sakuhachi extract, yukinoshita extract, rice bran extract, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid derivatives (eg 2,5-diacetoxybenzoic acid, etc.); Extract, collagen, nicotinic acid and derivatives thereof (eg nicotinamide, benzyl nicotinate, etc.), vitamin E and derivatives thereof (eg vitamin E nicotinate, vitamin E linoleate, etc.), α-hydroxy acids (eg lactic acid, citric acid, α-hydroxyoctanoic acid and the like), diisopropylamine dichloroacetate, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid and other skin aging prevention / rough skin improving components; herbal medicine extract such as gentian extract.
[0019]
Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to production examples, examples (formulation examples), and test examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following, all parts are by weight, and all% are by weight.
[0020]
Production Example 1 Preparation of Strobilances plant extract solution (1)
50 g of a dried product of Strobillanth crispath leaves cut to about 5 mm was immersed in 500 g of purified water, sufficiently stirred, and then allowed to stand at room temperature for 18 hours. Next, this was filtered to obtain 350 ml of a brown transparent extract solution (solid content concentration: 1.20%).
[0021]
Production Example 2 Preparation of Strobilances plant extract solution (2)
In Production Example 1, 380 ml of a brown transparent extract solution was prepared in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that a mixed liquid of purified water / ethanol = 80/20 (V / V) was used instead of purified water as an extraction solvent. Obtained (solid content concentration: 0.70%).
[0022]
Production Example 3 Preparation of Strobilances plant extract solution (3)
In Production Example 1, 350 ml of a brown transparent extract solution was obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that Strobililances Ulticifolius was used instead of Strobilances Crispus as the plant belonging to the genus Strobillanes. (Solid concentration: 1.00%).
[0023]
Production Example 4 Preparation of Strobilances plant extract solution (4)
In Production Example 1, 350 ml of a brown transparent extract solution was obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that Strobilances kernuus was used instead of Strobililances crispas as the plant belonging to the genus Strobillanes. Minor concentration: 1.05%).
[0024]
Production Example 5 Preparation of Strobilances Plant Extract Powder The extract solution obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1 was concentrated to 35 ml and freeze-dried to obtain 4.2 g of extract powder.
[0025]
Example 1 Cream [component A] Partial liquid paraffin 5.0
Hexalan [Glyceryl trioctanoate manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.] 4.0
Paraffin 5.0
Glyceryl monostearate 2.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 6.0
Butylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extract solution of Production Example 1 5.0
Glycerin 5.0
Carboxymethyl monostearate 0.1
Methylparaben 0.1
Moiston C [NMF component manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.] 1.0
Purified water Amount of 100 parts [component C]
Fragrance Appropriate amount Each of the above components A and B was heated to 80 ° C. or higher, and then mixed by stirring. After cooling this to 50 degreeC, C component was added, and also it stirred and mixed and prepared the cream.
[0026]
Example 2 Latex [Component A] Partial liquid paraffin 6.0
Hexalan 4.0
Jojoba oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 2.0
Soy lecithin 1.5
Methylparaben 0.15
Ethylparaben 0.03
[B component]
Extract solution of Production Example 2 2.5
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Carboxymethylcellulose 0.3
Sodium hyaluronate 0.01
Purified water Amount of 100 parts [component C]
Fragrance Appropriate amount Each of the above components A and B was heated to 80 ° C. or higher, and then mixed by stirring. After cooling this to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to prepare an emulsion.
[0027]
Example 3 Lotion [Ingredient] Part Extract Example 3 Extract Solution 5.0
Ethanol 10.0
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Methylparaben 0.2
Citric acid 0.1
Sodium citrate 0.3
Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1
Fragrance Appropriate amount of purified water An amount that makes the total amount 100 parts.
[0028]
Example 4 Pack [component] part polyvinyl alcohol 15.0
Hydroxymethylcellulose 5.0
Propylene glycol 5.0
Ethanol 10.0
Methylparaben 0.2
Extract solution of Production Example 4 5.0
Fragrance Appropriate amount of purified water An amount that makes the total amount 100 parts. The above ingredients were mixed to prepare a pack.
[0029]
Example 5 Press powder [component A] Part Bengala 0.5
Yellow iron oxide 1.5
Black iron oxide 0.1
Titanium oxide 10.0
Nylon powder 4.0
Amount of mica that makes 100 parts of sericite 23.0
Talc 25.0
Extract powder of production example 5 0.2
[B component]
Squalane 1.0
Methylpolysiloxane 4.0
Propylparaben 0.1
Dehydroacetic acid 0.1
Liquid paraffin 2.0
Fragrance Appropriate Amounts The above A component and B component were mixed and stirred, mixed, then passed through a 200 mesh Tyler mesh sieve, and the resulting mixed powder was cast into a mold to prepare a uniform press powder.
[0030]
Example 6 Bath agent [ingredient] Part extract powder of Production Example 5 0.5
Sodium sulfate 47.0
Sodium bicarbonate Amount of fragrance in which the total amount becomes 100 parts An appropriate amount The above ingredients were mixed and stirred to prepare a uniform bath preparation.
[0031]
Comparative Example Cream Example 1 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 1.0 part of kojic acid was used instead of 5.0 parts of the plant extract solution of the genus Strobilances of Production Example 1. did.
[0032]
Control Example A cream was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that in Example 1 of the cream, the Strobilances plant extract solution of Production Example 1 was not used.
[0033]
Test Example 1 Inhibitory action on intracellular tyrosinase activity [Test method]
Cultured B16 mouse melanoma cells were seeded at 1 × 10 4 cells / well in a 96-well microplate, and in a minimal essential medium (MEM) containing 10% calf serum (FBS) at 37 ° C. and 5% CO 2 for 1 day. After pre-culture, the culture solution was replaced with Eagle MEM containing 10% FBS to which the extract solution of Production Example 1 was added to a concentration of 2.5 or 5.0%, and cultured under the same conditions for 2 days. .
Next, after removing the culture solution and adding a 5 mM L-dopa or 0.2% MTT to the cell treatment solution to which the surfactant (TritonX-100) was added, a tyrosinase reaction was performed at 37 ° C. Using a microplate reader (Model 1450, manufactured by Bio-Rad), the dopa value was measured at a wavelength of 490 nm, and the MTT value was measured at 570-630 nm.
For comparison, the same test was performed for the case where 2 mM kojic acid was added instead of the extract solution of Production Example 1 and when no sample was added (blank).
[0034]
[result]
The dopa values obtained in the above test are shown in FIG. 1, and the MTT values are shown in FIG.
From the results of FIG. 1 and FIG. 2, it can be seen that the Strobilances plant extract of the present invention significantly suppresses the intracellular tyrosinase activity without being accompanied by a decrease in the cell activity.
[0035]
Test Example 2 Pigmentation Inhibition Test The in vivo whitening effect of the Strobilices plant extract of the present invention was evaluated by a pigmentation inhibition test using guinea pigs.
[Test method]
The body hair of length 60 mm × width 30 mm in the center of the back of a colored guinea pig (male, 8 weeks old) was shaved, and the part was divided into two on the left and right. In one of the compartments, a solution (sample solution) having a concentration of 5.0% obtained by diluting the extract solution of Production Example 1 with purified water, and purified water as a control in the other, 5 ml each time in the morning and evening. It was applied for 6 days, and the application site was irradiated with UV-B of 500 mJ / cm 2 once a day immediately in the morning, and the pigmentation state of the irradiation site was visually observed in the evening of the sixth day. Evaluation was made according to the criteria.
[0036]
[Evaluation criteria for pigmentation]
−: No pigmentation is observed ±: Slight pigmentation is observed +: Mild pigmentation is observed 2+: Moderate pigmentation is observed 3+: Severe pigmentation is observed [0037]
[result]
The results are shown in Table 1.
[Table 1]

[0038]
As is apparent from the results in Table 1, the Strobilianthus plant extract of the present invention has an effect of significantly suppressing pigmentation on the skin due to exposure to ultraviolet rays.
Test Example 3 Skin irritation evaluation test Skin irritation of various whitening components was evaluated by a neutral red uptake test using cultured rabbit corneal cells (SIRC), which is an alternative method to the eye mucosa irritation test.
[0039]
[sample]
(1) Extract powder of Production Example 5 (2) Kojic acid (3) Arbutin
[Test method]
SIRC was seeded at 5000 cells / well in a 96-well microplate, cultured in Eagle's minimum essential medium (MEM) containing 5% calf serum for 3 days, and then the sample was added to a concentration of 0.2%. The culture was further continued for 2 days. Next, SIRC was cultured in Eagle MEM medium containing 0.05% neutral red (NR) for 3 hours, and the NR uptake rate was determined for the SRIC obtained here, and the skin irritation of each sample was evaluated from the value. .
[0041]
[result]
The results are shown in Table 2.
[Table 2]

[0042]
As shown in Table 2, the Strobilances genus plant extract of the present invention is less irritating to the skin than existing whitening agents and can provide a cosmetic with excellent safety.
[0043]
Test Example 4 Monitor Test For each cream of Example 1, Comparative Example and Control Example, the inhibitory effect on skin pigmentation and skin irritation were examined by monitor test.
[Test method]
Twenty randomly selected women aged 18 to 50 years were used as subjects, and each cream was applied to the left upper arm twice a day (morning and evening) for 1 month. The erythema of the skin was visually observed and evaluated based on the following evaluation criteria.
[0044]
[Evaluation criteria]
(Pigmentation)
A: Lost B: Clearly decreased C: Somewhat decreased D: Almost unchanged E: On the contrary increased (erythema)
A: No difference from the control
B: Little difference from the control example C: Some erythema is more noticeable than the control example D: Equivalent erythema is noticeable compared to the control example E: Erythema is clearly noticeable compared to the control example
[result]
The results are shown in Table 3.
[0046]
[Table 3]

[0047]
As shown in Table 3, the cream formulated with the Strobillances spp. Extract of the present invention has an excellent anti-pigmentation effect, and has little irritation to the skin and high safety.
[0048]
【The invention's effect】
The cosmetic composition of the present invention, which is formulated with an extract of a plant belonging to the genus Stroviranses, remarkably suppresses skin pigmentation such as spots and buckwheat by virtue of the strong tyrosinase activity-suppressing action of the above-mentioned extract as an active ingredient. In addition to being suppressed or reduced, the extract is derived from a natural product, so that there is little irritation to the skin and excellent safety.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the dopa value of each sample of Test Example 1 (vertical axis: dopa value).
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the MTT value of each sample of Test Example 1 (vertical axis: MTT value).

Claims (2)

A whitening cosmetic comprising an extract of a plant belonging to the genus Stroviranses as a tyrosinase activity inhibitory action component . The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the plant belonging to the genus Stroviranthes is Strobilanthes crispus L.

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