JP3987825B2 - Cosmetics and cosmetic ingredients - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic material that has an effect of restoring the barrier function of the skin stratum corneum, and further has an antioxidant action and an anti-inflammatory action, maintains or improves the skin in a healthy and fresh state, and is effective in preventing skin aging, and The present invention relates to a cosmetic compounding agent for imparting effects on cosmetics.

The stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, protects the living body from contact and penetration of foreign matter such as microorganisms and harmful substances, and prevents the evaporation of moisture from the skin surface to keep the skin healthy and fresh. It performs a so-called barrier function.
When this barrier function is reduced due to aging, excessive water work, etc., the water evaporation from the skin surface (Transepidermal Water Loss; TEWL) increases, the water content of the stratum corneum decreases and the dry skin phenomenon occurs. Exhibits rough skin.
In order to prevent this skin barrier function from decreasing and to prevent or improve moisture transpiration from the skin surface, and thus dry skin and rough skin, transepidermal moisture transpiration has been conventionally used using occlusive agents such as petroleum jelly, squalane and ester oil. (TEWL) deterrent method, glycerin, NMF-related components (sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, sodium lactate, etc.), hydrolyzed collagen, collagen derivatives, and other moisturizing ingredients are added to the skin to enhance the water retention capacity of the skin, placenta Methods for promoting keratinization of epidermal cells using cell activation components such as extracts and vitamins have been proposed, but in the case of these conventional methods, the effect is temporary or effective. However, if the amount is increased to obtain a satisfactory effect, it may cause stickiness when applied to the skin, resulting in a decreased feeling of use or safety. There is a drawback such as may occur with in the surface problem.

  In view of the above-mentioned problems in the method and agent for recovering the skin barrier function and maintaining and improving the skin in a healthy, fresh and firm state, both the effectiveness and safety are considered. A new skin barrier function recovery agent with excellent usability and the like, as well as prevention of rough skin, effective improvement of symptoms, high biological safety, good usability, and feeling after use. As a result of diligent research to provide the prepared cosmetics, the extract of the plant belonging to the genus Acanthaceae, which is a seed plant belonging to Chenopodiaceae, has an excellent skin barrier function recovery action, and the moisture transpiration from the skin It has a remarkable effect on prevention or improvement of skin moisture retention ability, and since it is derived from a natural product, it is highly safe for the living body and has a good feeling of use and meets the above purpose. It led to the issue.

In addition, as a result of further studies by the present inventors, the extract of the plant belonging to the genus Acanthaceae also has an anti-inflammatory action based on an antioxidant action and a cyclooxygenase activity-inhibiting action in addition to an action to restore the skin barrier function. It became clear to have both.
Therefore, according to the cosmetic containing the extract of the plant belonging to the genus Rhizoaceae, the transpiration of moisture from the skin is prevented or the ability to retain the moisture of the skin is improved based on the skin barrier function recovery action of the extract. In addition to preventing rough skin and improving symptoms, it also prevents or improves skin aging by eliminating radicals generated by ultraviolet rays and stress and suppressing inflammation, keeping the skin youthful In addition, the skin aging preventing effect of recovery can be exhibited.

JP 63-192705 A

That is, the present invention firstly uses, as an active ingredient, an extract obtained by extracting a plant belonging to the genus Rhizoaceae with water or a mixed solvent of water and a hydrophilic solvent, and restores skin barrier function, antioxidants. The present invention relates to a cosmetic compounding agent having both an action and an anti-inflammatory action .
Secondly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic comprising the above-described cosmetic compounding agent .
In the present specification, cosmetics are used in the sense of including quasi-drugs in addition to so-called cosmetics.

The cosmetic ingredient of the present invention comprising the above first configuration, the serving active ingredient Chenopodiaceae Salicornia plants of the genus excellent skin barrier function recovery effect achieved by the solvent extract, based on the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action, rough skin Because it provides cosmetics that are effective for prevention or symptom improvement and also has an anti-skin aging effect, has low skin irritation, etc., is safe, has no stickiness, and has good characteristics with the skin. A cosmetic comprising this is satisfactory in terms of biosafety and feeling of use .
In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention having the above-mentioned second configuration is capable of transpiration of moisture from the skin surface when applied to the skin, based on the excellent skin barrier function recovery action of the cosmetic formulation composition containing as an active ingredient. Prevent or improve rough skin by preventing or improving skin moisture retention, not only to restore the skin to a healthy, fresh and firm state, but also the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects combined with the combination As a result of eliminating radicals that cause aging and suppressing inflammation, skin aging is prevented and the skin is kept in a youthful state.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
Examples of the plant belonging to the genus Acanthaceae used in the preparation of the extract of the present invention include, for example, Salicornia herbacea, Salicornia europaea, Salicornia bigelovii, Salicornia dricostacia sp. Shima (Salicornian dolichostachya ssp strictissima).
Among them, the use of hammocha (Salicornia herbacea) is most preferable from the viewpoints of the action and effect such as the skin barrier function recovery action of the extract obtained, and the availability of raw materials.

  In the case of preparing an extract of these genus Acanthaceae plants, there are no particular limitations on the extraction site of the plant, and for example, appropriate parts such as seeds, leaves, stems, roots, whole grasses can be used. Most preferred are stems or whole plants. The extract should be prepared by washing the part of the plant belonging to the genus Rhododendron in advance with water if necessary to remove foreign substances, and then directly or after drying, chopping or grinding as necessary, soaking method, countercurrent It can carry out by making it contact with an extraction solvent in accordance with conventional methods, such as an extraction method.

  As an extraction solvent, water; lower alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, and propanol; higher alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol; many solvents such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and glycerin Monohydric alcohols; esters such as ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, methyl propionate and glyceryl trioctanoate; ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; ethers such as ethyl ether and isopropyl ether; carbonization such as n-hexane, toluene and chloroform Examples thereof include hydrogen-based solvents, which are used alone or in combination of two or more.

  Among these extraction solvents, water, lower alcohols or the like in the present invention from the viewpoint of the skin barrier function recovery action and the like of the extract obtained, and also from the viewpoint that it can be widely applied to cosmetics. A hydrophilic solvent such as a polyhydric alcohol is preferably used. Preferred examples of using this hydrophilic solvent include, for example, water or lower alcohols (especially ethanol) used alone, or a mixed solvent of water and lower alcohols (especially ethanol) or water and polyhydric alcohols (especially Use of a mixed solvent with 1,3-butylene glycol or propylene glycol) is exemplified, and water alone is most preferable.

  In the case of using a mixed solvent, the mixing ratio of each solvent is, for example, 1: 5 to 25: 1 by weight ratio (hereinafter the same) if water and ethanol are mixed solvent, and water and 1,3-butylene glycol. In the case of a mixed solvent, it is preferably in the range of 1: 5 to 15: 1, and in the case of a mixed solvent of water and propylene glycol, it is preferably in the range of 1: 5 to 15: 1.

  In the preparation of the extract, the pH of the extract is not particularly limited, but is generally preferably in the range of 4 to 8. In this sense, if necessary, the above extraction solvent may be sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, water. You may mix | blend alkaline adjusters, such as potassium oxide, acidic adjusters, such as a citric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, and a sulfuric acid, and you may adjust so that it may become desired pH.

  Extraction conditions such as bath ratio, extraction temperature, and extraction time vary depending on the type and pH of the solvent used, or the extraction site and shredding degree of the plant, but for example, in the case of the immersion method using water as the extraction solvent The bath ratio is a weight ratio, and the solvent is in the range of 1 to 50 times, preferably 1 to 20 times the amount of the plant, and the extraction temperature is generally 4 to 100 ° C, preferably 4 to 80 ° C. It is a range. The extraction time is 8 hours to 50 days in the case of cold extraction at 4 ° C., particularly 24 hours to 20 days, 4 hours to 20 days in the case of medium temperature extraction at 40 ° C., particularly 8 hours to 5 days, 80 ° C. In the case of high temperature extraction, the time is preferably 10 minutes to 8 hours, particularly 30 minutes to 3 hours.

The extract solution thus obtained is generally adjusted to a pH of 4 to 8, and may be used as it is as a cosmetic compounding agent, or may be used at an appropriate concentration by vacuum concentration or the like if necessary. . Further, depending on the case, it can be pulverized according to a conventional method such as spray drying or freeze drying.
In addition, oil components contained in plants belonging to the genus Hydrangea, such as oil obtained from the seeds of Saricornia bigerovi, are also useful as cosmetic ingredients.

As described later in Test Examples 1 to 4, the extract of the genus Acanthaceae of the present invention prepared as described above recovers the skin barrier function to a normal state and suppresses moisture transpiration from the epidermis. It has anti-inflammatory action based on anti-oxidation action and cyclooxygenase activity suppression action, and also has excellent biological safety, a feeling of use at the time of skin application, makeup for the purpose of preventing rough skin, improving and preventing skin aging It is extremely useful when blended into the material. Accordingly, as an active ingredient an extract of Chenopodiaceae Salicornia genus plant according According to the present invention, the skin barrier function recovery effect, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory combines the effects cosmetic ingredient (skin barrier function recovery and antioxidants, Anti-inflammatory agents) and cosmetics containing the combination are provided.

  Examples of cosmetics containing the extract of the genus Acanthaceae of the present invention include basic cosmetics such as emulsions, creams, lotions, essences, packs, lipsticks, foundations, liquid foundations, makeup press powders, blushers, white powders. Makeup cosmetics such as facial cleansers, body shampoos, soaps and other cleaning cosmetics, and bath agents, but of course are not limited thereto.

  In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the amount of the extract of the plant belonging to the genus Rhizoaceae is generally 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% as the solid content of the extract in the case of basic cosmetics. In the range of% by weight, in the case of makeup cosmetics, generally 0.001 to 3% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 1% by weight, and in the case of cleansing cosmetics, generally 0.001 to 5% by weight. %, Preferably in the range of 0.01 to 2% by weight.

  The cosmetics of the present invention include components that are usually used in cosmetics, for example, oily components, surfactants (synthetic systems, natural products), moisturizers, potentiators, in addition to the essential components of the plant extract of the genus Akazaceae. A sticking agent, antiseptic / bactericidal agent, powder component, ultraviolet absorber, pigment, fragrance, physiologically active component and the like can be appropriately blended as necessary.

  Here, as the oil component, for example, olive oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, soybean oil, rice oil, rice germ oil, palm oil, palm oil, cacao oil, meadow foam oil, sheer butter, tea tree oil, avocado oil, Oils derived from plants such as macadamia nut oil and plant-derived squalane; Fats derived from animals such as mink oil and turtle oil; waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, rice wax, lanolin; liquid paraffin, petrolatum, paraffin wax, squalane, etc. Hydrocarbons; fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, cis-11-eicosenoic acid; higher alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol; isopropyl myristate, palmitic acid Isopropyl, me Butyl phosphate, 2-ethylhexyl glycerides, higher fatty acid octyldodecyl (octyl stearate dodecyl and the like), and the synthetic esters and synthetic triglycerides such like.

Examples of the surfactant include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters; fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates, polyoxyethylene fatty amine sulfates, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfates, Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, α-sulfonated fatty acid alkyl ester salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether phosphates, Quaternary ammonium salt, primary to tertiary fatty amine salt, trialkylbenzylammonium salt, alkylpyridinium salt, 2-alkyl-1-alkyl-1-hydroxyethylimidazolinium salt, N N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxymethylammoniobetaine, N, N, N-trialkyl-N-, N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxymethylammoniobetaine Amphoteric surfactants such as alkylene ammoniocarboxybetaine and N-acylamidopropyl-N ′, N′-dimethyl-N′-β-hydroxypropylammoniosulfobetaine can be used.
In addition, as emulsifiers or emulsifiers, stevia derivatives such as enzyme-treated stevia, lecithin and its derivatives, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented cereals (wheat, legumes, millet, etc.), juteiro (Rhamnaceae zizyphus joazeiro) An extract or the like can also be blended.

  Examples of humectants include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, and sugars such as trehalose, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, and mucopolysaccharides. (For example, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, chondroitin and its derivatives, heparin and its derivatives, etc.), elastin and its derivatives, collagen and its derivatives, NMF related substances, lactic acid, urea, higher fatty acid octyldodecyl, seaweed extract, beech extract Products, seafood-derived collagen and derivatives thereof, various amino acids and derivatives thereof.

  Examples of thickeners include, for example, brown algae such as alginic acid, agar, carrageenan, fucoidan, green algae or red algae-derived components, extract of sand cucumber, pectin, locust bean gum, polysaccharides such as aloe polysaccharide, xanthan gum, tragacanth gum, guar gum, etc. Synthetic polymers such as gums, cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / methacrylic acid copolymer; hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, polyglutamic acid and its derivatives, etc. Is mentioned.

  Examples of the antiseptic / bactericidal agent include urea; paraoxybenzoates such as methyl paraoxybenzoate, ethyl paraoxybenzoate, propyl paraoxybenzoate, and butyl paraoxybenzoate; phenoxyethanol, dichlorophene, hexachlorophene, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, benzal chloride Luconium, salicylic acid, ethanol, undecylenic acid, phenols, jamal (imidazodenyl urea), 1,2-pentanediol, various essential oils, bark dry matter, and the like.

  Examples of powder components include sericite, titanium oxide, talc, kaolin, bentonite, zinc oxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, barium sulfate, silicic anhydride, mica, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, silk powder, and cellulose. System powders, powders of cereals (rice, wheat, corn, millet, etc.), powders of beans (soybeans, red beans, etc.).

  Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include ethyl paraaminobenzoate, ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, amyl salicylate and derivatives thereof, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, octyl cinnamate, oxybenzone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4 -Methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-tertiarybutyl-4-methoxybenzoylmethane, 2- (2-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl) benzotriazole, urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate, aloe extract, etc. .

  Examples of physiologically active ingredients include whitening ingredients such as t-cycloamino acid derivatives, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, hydroquinone derivatives, ellagic acid and derivatives thereof, resorcinol derivatives, sucha akuhi extract, yukinoshita extract, rice bran Extract, rice bran extract hydrolyzate, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented germinated rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented cereals (barley, beans, millet), white coconut hydrolyzed extract, murasakixikibu extract, Pandanus amaririfolios (Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb.) extract, Arcangelicia flava Merrilli extract, chamomile extract (trade name: chamomile ET), seaweed extract such as kombu, seaweed extract such as sea bream, linoleic acid and Derivatives or processed products thereof (eg liposomal linoleic acid), 2,5-dihydro And xylbenzoic acid derivatives.

  Examples of the kojic acid derivatives include kojic acid esters such as kojic acid monobutyrate, kojic acid monocaprate, kojic acid monopalmitate, kojic acid dibutyrate, kojic acid ethers, kojic acid sugar derivatives such as kojic acid glucoside, etc. However, as the ascorbic acid derivatives, for example, L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate sodium, L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium, L-ascorbic acid-2-sulfate sodium, L-ascorbic acid-2 -Ascorbic acid ester salts such as magnesium sulfate, L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside (2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid), L-ascorbic acid-5-glucoside (5-O-α) -D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbine Acid) ascorbic acid sugar derivatives, acylated 6-positions of these ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (acyl groups are hexanoyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, etc.), L-ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, L-ascorbic acid tetra L-ascorbic acid tetrafatty acid esters such as lauric acid ester, 3-O-ethylascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate-6-O-palmitate sodium and the like are hydroquinone derivatives such as arbutin (hydroquinone). -Β-D-glucopyranoside), α-arbutin (hydroquinone-α-D-glucopyranoside) and the like, and as resorcinol derivatives, for example, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 4-isoamylresorcinol and the like are 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid. Derivatives and For example, 2,5-diacetoxybenzoic acid, 2-acetoxy-5-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-5-propionyloxybenzoic acid, etc., and nicotinic acid derivatives include, for example, nicotinic acid amide, nicotinic acid benzyl, etc. However, examples of the vitamin E derivative include vitamin E nicotinate and vitamin E linoleate, and examples of the α-hydroxy acid include lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, citric acid, and α-hydroxyoctanoic acid.

  In addition, as long as the effectiveness and features of the plant extract of the genus Rhizoaceae of the present invention are not impaired, other skin roughness improving agents, skin anti-aging agents, antioxidants and further anti-inflammatory agents may be combined in cosmetics. There is no problem.

  Examples of such substances include skin roughness improving agents and skin antiaging agents, such as collagen derived from animals or fish and derivatives thereof, elastin and derivatives thereof, collagen-like substances derived from plants and elastin-like substances, nicotinic acid and derivatives thereof, glycyrrhizic acid And derivatives thereof (dipotassium salts, etc.), t-cycloamino acid derivatives, vitamin A and derivatives thereof, vitamin E and derivatives thereof, allantoin, α-hydroxy acids, diisopropylamine dichloroacetate, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, gentian extract , Licorice extract, pearl barley extract, chamomile extract, carrot extract, aloe extract and other herbal extracts, rice extract hydrolyzate, rice bran extract hydrolysate, rice fermented extract, beetroot extract, anaaosa extract, amamo, etc. Seaweed extract Souhakuhiekisu, Juazeiro (Rhamnaceae zizyphus joazeiro) there is an extract or the like.

  Antioxidants include, for example, butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene, propyl gallate, vitamin E and its derivatives, beech extract, rice extract and the like.

  Examples of the anti-inflammatory agent include glycyrrhizic acid, gentian extract, chamomile extract, hornon extract, aloe extract and the like.

  Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, formulation examples (cosmetic examples), and test examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following, all parts are parts by weight, and all% are% by weight.

Example 1. Preparation of skin barrier function recovery , antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (1)
200 g of purified water was added to 20 g of dried shredded whole plant of Salicornia herbacea and extracted at 40 ° C. for 1 hour. The obtained extract was filtered to obtain 150 g of a brown transparent extract solution (solid content: 1.9%).

Example 2 Preparation of skin barrier function recovery , antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (2)
200 g of purified water was added to 20 g of dried chopped stalks of Salicornia herbacea and extracted at 40 ° C. for 3 hours. The obtained extract was filtered to obtain 150 g of a brown transparent extract solution (solid content: 2.0%).

Example 3 Preparation of skin barrier function recovery , antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (3)
200 g of a 50% 1,3-butylene glycol aqueous solution was added to 20 g of a dry cut of whole plant of Salicornia herbacea and extracted at 40 ° C. for 5 hours. The obtained extract was filtered to obtain 160 g of a light brown transparent extract solution (solid content: 1.8%).

Example 4 Preparation of skin barrier function recovery , antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (4)
200 g of a 20% ethanol aqueous solution was added to 20 g of dried shredded whole plant of Salicornia herbacea and extracted at 40 ° C. for 5 hours. The obtained extract was filtered to obtain 160 g of a light brown transparent extract solution (solid content: 1.8%).

Example 5 FIG. Preparation of skin barrier function recovery , antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (5)
100 ml of the extract solution obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 was concentrated to 10 ml and freeze-dried to obtain 1.8 g of extract powder.

Example 6 Preparation of skin barrier function recovery , antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents (6)
In Example 1, a light brown transparent extract solution (solid content) was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that salicornia bigelovii whole plant was used instead of whole plant of Salicornia herbacea. : 1.5%) 130 g was obtained.

Formulation Example 1 Cream [Component A] Liquid paraffin 5.0
Hexalan (Note 1) 4.0
Paraffin 5.0
Glyceryl monostearate 2.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 6.0
Butylparaben 0.1
(Note 1) Technoble Co., Ltd. glyceryl trioctanoate
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 1 20.0
Glycerin 5.0
Carboxymethyl monostearate 0.1
Moiston C (Note 2) 1.0
Amount of purified water totaling 100 parts (Note 2) NMF component manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.
[C component]
Perfume
The components A and B were each heated to 80 ° C. or higher and then mixed by stirring. After this was cooled to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to obtain a cream.

Formulation Example 2 Cream A cream was obtained in the same manner as in Formulation Example 1 except that the extract solution of Example 2 was used instead of the extract solution of Example 1 in Component B of Formulation Example 1.

Formulation Example 3 Emulsion [component A] part liquid paraffin 6.0
Hexalan 4.0
Jojoba oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 2.0
Soy lecithin 1.5
Methylparaben 0.15
Ethylparaben 0.03
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 1 20.0
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Carboxymethylcellulose 0.3
Sodium hyaluronate 0.01
Amount of purified water totaling 100 parts
[C component]
Perfume
The components A and B were each heated to 80 ° C. or higher and then mixed by stirring. After cooling this to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to obtain an emulsion.

Formulation Example 4 Lotion [component] part Extract solution of Example 3 30.0
Ethanol 10.0
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Methylparaben 0.2
Citric acid 0.1
Sodium citrate 0.3
Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1
Perfume
Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount Purified water Amount that makes 100 parts in total
The above ingredients were mixed to obtain a lotion.

Formulation Example 5 Lotion [component A] part olive oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (5.5) cetyl alcohol 5.0
Butylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 4 30.0
Ethanol 5.0
Glycerin 5.0
1,3-butylene glycol 5.0
Methylparaben 0.1
Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount Purified water Amount that makes 100 parts in total
[C component]
Perfume
After each component A and component B was heated to 80 ° C. or higher, the component B was added to the component A and stirred, and further homogenized with Hiscotron (5000 rpm) for 2 minutes.
After cooling this to 50 degreeC, C component was added and stirred and mixed, and also it cooled to 30 degrees C or less, and the lotion was obtained.

Formulation Example 6 Emulsion An emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Formulation Example 3 except that the extract solution of Example 2 was used instead of the extract solution of Example 1 in the component B of Formulation Example 3.

Formulation Example 7 Emulsion An emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Formulation Example 3 except that the extract solution of Example 3 was used instead of the extract solution of Example 1 in the component B of Formulation Example 3.

Formulation Example 8 Emulsion An emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Formulation Example 3 except that the extract solution of Example 6 was used instead of the extract solution of Example 1 in Component B of Formulation Example 3.

Formulation Example 9 Emulsion [component A] part liquid paraffin 6.0
Hexalan 4.0
Jojoba oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 2.0
Soy lecithin 1.5
Methylparaben 0.15
Ethylparaben 0.03
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 1 20.0
L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside 2.0
Potassium hydroxide 0.5
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Carboxymethylcellulose 0.3
Sodium hyaluronate 0.01
Amount of purified water totaling 100 parts
[C component]
Perfume
The components A and B were each heated to 80 ° C. or higher and then mixed by stirring. After cooling this to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to obtain an emulsion.

Example 10 Emulsion In addition to using 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium in place of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 parts of potassium hydroxide in the component B of Formulation Example 9. Gave a milky lotion in the same manner as in Formulation Example 9.

Formulation Example 11 Emulsion In addition to using 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate and 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate in place of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 parts of potassium hydroxide in component B of formulation example 9 Gave a milky lotion in the same manner as in Formulation Example 9.

Formulation Example 12. Emulsion In the component B of Formulation Example 9, the emulsion was prepared in the same manner as Formulation Example 9, except that 2.0 parts of arbutin was used instead of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 part of potassium hydroxide. Obtained.

Formulation Example 13 Emulsion In the component B of Formulation Example 9, instead of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 part of potassium hydroxide, a rice bran extract hydrolyzate (trade name “Grace Know” manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.) An emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Formulation Example 9, except that 5.0 parts of * Snow * HP ", solid concentration 3.5%) were used.

Formulation Example 14. Emulsion White coconut extract (trade name “Sinablanca-WH” manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.) instead of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 part of potassium hydroxide in the B component of Formulation Example 9. The emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Formulation Example 9, except that 5.0 parts of a solid content concentration of 1.0% was used.

Formulation Example 15. Emulsion Formulation Example 9 in the component B except that 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 part of potassium hydroxide are used instead of 1.0 part of γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid In the same manner as in No. 9, an emulsion was obtained.

Formulation Example 16. Pressed powder [A component] Part Bengala 0.5
Yellow iron oxide 1.5
Black iron oxide 0.1
Titanium oxide 10.0
Nylon powder 4.0
Amount that makes 100 parts of sericite Mica 23.0
Talc 25.0
Extract powder of Example 5 0.5
[B component]
Squalane 1.0
Methylpolysiloxane 4.0
Propylparaben 0.1
Dehydroacetic acid 0.1
Liquid paraffin 2.0
Perfume
The above A component and B component were mixed and agitated, mixed, then passed through a 200 mesh Tyler mesh sieve, and the resulting mixed powder was cast into a mold to obtain a pressed powder.

Formulation Example 17. Liquid foundation [component A] part Stearic acid 2.4
Propylene glycol monostearate 2.0
Cetostearyl alcohol 0.2
Liquid lanolin 2.0
Liquid paraffin 3.0
Isopropyl myristate 8.5
Propylparaben 0.05
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 2 5.0
Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 0.2
Bentonite 0.5
Propylene glycol 4.0
Triethanolamine 1.1
Methylparaben 0.1
Purified water Amount that makes the total amount 100 parts [C component]
Titanium oxide 8.0
Talc 4.0
Coloring pigment appropriate amount The components A and B were heated and mixed and stirred. This was reheated, the above C component was added, poured into a mold, and stirred until it reached room temperature to obtain a liquid foundation.

Formulation Example 18. Cream foundation [component A] part Stearic acid 5.0
Cetanol 2.0
Glyceryl monostearate 3.0
Liquid paraffin 5.0
Squalane 3.0
Isopropyl myristate 8.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) glyceryl monostearate 2.0
Propylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 3 10.0
Sorbitol 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 5.0
Triethanolamine 1.5
Methylparaben 0.1
Purified water Amount of 100 parts [component C]
Titanium oxide 8.0
Talc 2.0
Kaolin 5.0
Bentonite 1.0
Coloring pigment appropriate amount [component D]
Fragrance 0.3
Component C was mixed and pulverized with a pulverizer. The component B was mixed, and the pulverized component C was added thereto and uniformly dispersed in a colloid mill. The components A and B and C dispersed uniformly were each heated to 80 ° C., and then the components A were added to the components B and C while stirring, and further homogenized with Hiscotron (5000 rpm) for 2 minutes. After cooling this to 50 degreeC, D component was added and stirred and mixed, and also it cooled to 30 degrees C or less, stirring, and obtained the cream foundation.

Formulation Example 19. Body shampoo [component A] part N-lauroylmethylalanine sodium 25.0
Palm oil fatty acid potassium liquid (40%) 26.0
Palm oil fatty acid diethanolamide 3.0
Methylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extract solution of Example 3 10.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Purified water Amount to be 100 parts A component and B component are each heated to 80 ° C and dissolved uniformly, then B component is added to A component and stirring is continued to cool to room temperature to obtain a body shampoo It was.

Formulation Example 20. Soap [component A] part hardened castor oil 26.0
Coconut oil 10.0
Olive oil 4.0
[B component]
Sodium hydroxide 6.0
Sugar 10.0
Glycerin 5.0
Extract powder of Example 5 0.5
Purified water Amount of 100 parts [component C]
Ethanol 20.0
Perfume Appropriate A component and B component were each heated to 80 ° C. and dissolved uniformly, and then B component was added to A component to saponify. This was cooled to 50 ° C. with stirring, and component C was added. This was poured into a mold and cooled, and then dried at room temperature for several days. A sufficiently dried product was taken out from the mold to obtain soap.

Test Example 1 Skin Barrier Function Recovery Action The skin barrier function recovery action of the extract was examined by measuring changes in transdermal water transpiration (TEWL) when the extract of the plant of the genus Genus of the present invention was applied to the skin.
[sample]
1. Preservative water (contains 5%, 0.15% and 0.03% of 1,3-butylene glycol, methylparaben and ethylparaben as preservatives, respectively) (control)
2. Preservative water containing 20% of the extract of Example 1 (preservative composition is the same as the control) (sample of the present invention)

[Test method]
Ten adult males aged 20 to 50 years were used as subjects, and two test sites were provided on the inner forearm of each subject, and the sites were treated with SDS to artificially cause rough skin.
The control antiseptic water is applied to one of the test sites, and the sample of the present invention is applied to the other side twice a day (morning and evening) for 3 days, each day for 3 days. Before the sample application, the TEWL of the test site was measured using a barometer (manufactured by Keystone, model SWL2001N). The measurement was repeated three times for each test site, and the average value was taken.
The degree of recovery of the skin barrier function (barrier function recovery rate%) is defined as 100 from the value after 1 day of application when TEWL showed the highest value, and the relative value of TEWL after 2 days and 3 days after application according to the following formula: Asked.
Barrier function recovery rate (%) = TEWL (relative value) after 100-2 days or 3 days

[result]
The results are shown in FIG. In FIG. 1, the barrier function recovery rate (%) is an average value of 10 subjects.
From the result of FIG. 1, it is clear that the extract of the plant of the genus Rhododendron according to the present invention has an excellent barrier function restoring action.

Test Example 2 Antioxidant [DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenge test])
[sample]
1. Extract solution of Example 1 (invention sample)
2. Trolox 50% ethanol solution (positive control)

[Test method]
Add 50 μl each of the sample of the present invention or positive control to a 96-well microplate, add 150 μl of DPPH additive solution or control solution having the composition shown in Table 1 and incubate at 37 ° C. for 20 minutes, and then perform colorimetric determination at 550 nm. went.
The DPPH radical amount was obtained by subtracting the absorbance of the reaction solution added with the control solution from the absorbance of the reaction solution added with the DPPH additive solution.

（注）DPPH4.8mgを50mLのエタノールに溶解後、水50mLを加えて調製した液

(Note) A solution prepared by dissolving 4.8 mg of DPPH in 50 mL of ethanol and then adding 50 mL of water.

[result]
The results are shown in FIG.
From the results shown in FIG. 2, the extract of the plant belonging to the genus Rhododendron has excellent radical scavenging ability and is useful as an antioxidant, and therefore, the cosmetic of the present invention comprising the extract is blended. According to this, it can be seen that oxidative damage to the skin is reduced or suppressed, and the functions of cells of the epidermis and dermis are maintained in a normal and healthy state, thereby preventing or improving skin aging.

Test Example 3 Anti-inflammatory action based on suppression of cyclooxygenase activity [Sample]
1. 10% aqueous solution of the extract solution of Example 3 (sample of the present invention)
2. Purified water (control)
[Test method]
To 2.52 ml of 20 mM tryptophan / 0.2 MTris-HCl buffer (pH 8.0), 0.03 ml of 40 mM hemoglobin / 0.2 MTris-HCL buffer (pH 8.0) and 0.15 ml of a sample were mixed. After warming to 37 ° C, mix 0.1 ml of 2 mM arachidonic acid / 0.2 mM Tris-HCL buffer (pH 8.0) and 0.2 ml of 250 unit / ml cyclooxygenase, and use arachidonic acid as a substrate for 10 minutes while stirring in a sealed state. A cyclooxygenase enzyme reaction was carried out.
During the course of the reaction, the dissolved oxygen concentration was measured every specified time using a biological oxygen monitor (YSI MODEL 5300), and the oxygen consumption rate over time was calculated with the dissolved oxygen concentration immediately before the reaction as 100%.
When the oxygen consumption rate at each time is χ%, the oxygen consumption amount in 3 ml of the sample solution is obtained by the following equation.
Oxygen consumption in sample solution (μl) = χ / 100 × 5.02 × 3

[result]
The change in oxygen consumption over time is shown in FIG.
As is apparent from the results of FIG. 3, the plant extract of the genus Hydrangea of the present invention has a remarkable cyclooxygenase activity inhibitory effect and is useful as an anti-inflammatory agent.
In addition, the cosmetic of the present invention, which is obtained by blending this genus plant extract, exhibits an excellent effect in preventing skin aging due to the anti-inflammatory action of the extract.

Test Example 4 Skin irritation
[sample]
(1) Extract solution obtained in Example 1 (sample of the present invention)
(2) Purified water (control)

[Test method]
Five adult males aged 20 to 50 years old were subjects, and the inner side of each upper arm was wiped with ethanol to remove sebum, and 0.2 ml of each sample was applied to the aluminum plate of the fin chamber. Was affixed. After 24 hours, the fin chamber was removed, and the degree of skin irritation was determined by the method and criteria described below.
[Judgment]
After 1 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours after removing the patch, the state of erythema and edema at the applied site was visually determined based on the following “skin irritation criteria by dreze method”, and the average value of 5 subjects was calculated. Asked.
(Erythema)
Score skin condition 0: No erythema 1: Extremely mild erythema 2: Clear erythema 3: Moderate to strong erythema 4: Light crust formation in deep crimson erythema (edema)
Score skin condition 0: No edema 1: Extremely mild edema 2: Clear edema (distinguishable from surroundings)
3: Moderate edema (swelling of 1 mm or more)
4: Strong edema (further spread around)

[result]
The results are shown in Table 2.

  As is apparent from the results in Table 2, the extract of the plant belonging to the genus Hydrangea has almost no irritation to the skin and is extremely excellent in biological safety.

Test Example 4 Panel test (Part 1)
About the cosmetics which mix | blended the extract of the genus Hydrangea of this invention, the improvement effect with respect to rough skin was investigated by the panel test.
[sample]
(1) Cream of Formulation Example 1 (Invention Example)
(2) Cream obtained by using purified water instead of the extract solution of Example 1 in the formulation example 1 (control)

[Test method]
Twenty randomly selected women aged 18 to 50 years were used as subjects, and the inventive example or control cream was applied to the left and right cheeks twice a day (morning and evening) for one month. Then, the improvement effect with respect to skin drying and desquamation was evaluated based on the following evaluation criteria.

[Evaluation criteria]
A: Clearly improved B: Much improved C: Slightly improved D: No change E: On the contrary

[result]
The results are shown in Table 3. In addition, the number of each evaluation column of AE of Table 3 shows the ratio (%) of the test subject who performed the said evaluation among 20 test subjects.

  From the results in Table 3, it can be seen that the cosmetic of the present invention has an excellent improvement effect on skin dryness and desquamation, which are characteristic symptoms of rough skin.

Test Example 4 Panel test (Part 2))
About the cosmetics which mix | blended the extract of the genus Hydrangea of this invention, the effect with respect to skin aging prevention was investigated by the panel test.
[sample]
(1) Cream of Formulation Example 2 (Invention Example)
(2) Cream obtained by using purified water instead of the extract solution of Example 2 in the formulation example 2 (control)

[Test method]
Twenty randomly selected women aged 18 to 50 years were used as subjects, and the inventive example or control cream was applied to the left and right cheeks twice a day (morning and evening) for 3 months. Then, the improvement effect with respect to fine wrinkles, skin tension, and gloss was evaluated based on the following evaluation criteria.

[Evaluation criteria]
A: Clearly improved B: Much improved C: Slightly improved D: No change E: On the contrary

[result]
The results are shown in Table 4. In addition, the number of each evaluation column of AE of Table 4 shows the ratio (%) of the test subject who performed the said evaluation among 20 test subjects.

  From the results of Table 4, it is clear that the cosmetics containing the plant extract of the present invention of the present invention remarkably improve fine wrinkles, skin firmness and gloss, and are effective in preventing skin aging.

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the recovery rate of the skin barrier function over time when each sample was applied in Test Example 1 (vertical axis: barrier function recovery rate (%), horizontal axis: elapsed days (days)). FIG. 2 is a graph showing the DPPH value of each sample of Test Example 2 (vertical axis: DPPH value). FIG. 3 is a graph showing changes with time in oxygen consumption in each sample solution in Test Example 3 (vertical axis: oxygen consumption (μl), horizontal axis: elapsed time (minutes)).

Explanation of symbols

A control
B Sample of the present invention

Claims (4)

Cosmetics comprising as an active ingredient an extract obtained by extracting a plant of the genus Rhizoaceae with water or a mixed solvent of water and a hydrophilic solvent, and having both a skin barrier function restoring action, an antioxidant action and an anti-inflammatory action Formulation . The compounding agent according to claim 1, wherein the plant belonging to the genus Acanthaceae is Salicornia herbacea. The compounding agent according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic solvent is selected from lower alcohols and polyhydric alcohols . A cosmetic comprising the compounding agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3 .

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