JP6266857B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to cosmetics having excellent skin beautification and whitening effects and high safety.

  Skin aging is caused by internal factors such as inactivation of cell growth / differentiation associated with aging, decreased hormone secretion, quantitative decrease of extracellular matrix components, and cells caused by active oxygen induced by sunlight (ultraviolet rays). -Phenomenon caused by complex intertwining with external factors such as tissue damage or inflammation.

  Reactive oxygen, an external factor of skin aging, not only directly damages skin cells, but also denatures or crosslinks the collagen of the extracellular matrix component, resulting in wrinkle formation and reduced skin elasticity. It causes various damages to the skin, such as causing abnormal pigmentation and causing spots and freckles.

  In order to prevent this skin aging and keep the skin healthy and youthful, the use of various active ingredients has been proposed in the past, and cosmetics containing these skin-beautifying and whitening ingredients have been put on the market. For example, vitamin C, vitamin E, superoxide dismutase (hereinafter abbreviated as SOD), an antioxidant such as catalase; an anti-inflammatory agent such as glycyrrhizic acid; various ultraviolet absorbers; α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, placenta extract Cell activation components such as γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid; extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid; and humectants such as urea. Further, arbutin, kojic acid, and the like are known as substances that suppress the occurrence of pigmentation such as skin spots and buckwheat, and are widely used as active ingredients of whitening agents.

  However, these conventional skin-beautifying agents and whitening agents have problems in terms of safety to the skin and the like and effectiveness when actually applied to the skin. In addition, skin-beautifying agents and whitening agents derived from various natural ingredients have been proposed, but the skin-beautifying and whitening effects of these agents are safe for the skin when viewed as cosmetic ingredients, There are problems in terms of effectiveness when actually applied to the skin. Accordingly, there is a need for cosmetics containing cosmetic ingredients with improved such points.

  In view of the problems of the prior art, the present inventors have intensively studied to find new skin-beautifying and whitening ingredients derived from natural products from the viewpoint of skin safety. As a result, the flower extract of the plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae has a tyrosinase activity inhibitory action, an antioxidant action, an elastase activity inhibitory action, a collagenase activity inhibitory action, and a gelatinase activity inhibitory action. It has been found that blending the flower part extract makes it possible to provide cosmetics with excellent skin beautification and whitening effects and excellent skin safety, and the present invention has been completed.

Traditionally, we found that peonies roots (herbal medicine glazes) and button roots (herbal medicine buttonpis), which belong to the genus Button family, have the effects of rough skin, spots and freckles, and active oxygen scavenging effects. Utilized cosmetics have been proposed (Patent Documents 1 and 2). In addition, it has been found that petals belonging to the genus Buttonaceae have an active oxygen scavenging action and an anti-inflammatory action, and cosmetics using the action effects have also been proposed (Patent Documents 3 and 4).
However, it has not been reported at all that an extract of a flower part of a plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae has both an excellent whitening action and an anti-aging action.
In view of the above, as a result of intensive studies by the present inventor, the extract of the flower part (including petals, buds, etc.) of the genus Buttonaceae has excellent tyrosinase activity inhibitory activity and antioxidant properties. It has been newly found out that it has both an action and an anti-aging action such as MMP (elastase, collagenase, and gelatinase) activity inhibition action, and has completed the present invention.

JP 58-023612 JP 04-005237 A JP 07-309770 A JP 2004-0676760 A

The present invention is a cosmetic comprising an extract of a flower part of a plant belonging to the genus Paeoniaceae and Paeonia.
The plant belonging to the genus Button is preferably peony (Paeonia lactiflora).
As the plant belonging to the genus Button family, a button (Paeonia suffruticosa) is preferable.
Here, the term cosmetics is used in a broad sense including so-called cosmetics and quasi-drugs.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprising a flower part extract of a plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae has a strong tyrosinase activity inhibitory action, antioxidant action, and MMP activity inhibitory effect exhibited by the flower part extract contained as an active ingredient. It also has an action, thereby preventing and improving pigmentation such as spots and buckwheat, and further improving wrinkles and tarmi. In addition, since the extract is derived from a natural product, there is little irritation to the skin and it is excellent in safety.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The species of Paeoniaceae plant used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, peony (Paeonia lactiflora), peony (Peonia japonica), safflower (Paeonia obovata) , Buttons (Paeonia suffruticosa) and the like.

  The flowering time, size, etc. of the flower part belonging to the genus Button family are not particularly limited, and any one may be used. In addition, the flower part in the present invention refers to a flower including any one of petals, buds or the like.

  For the preparation of the extract, first, if necessary, the flower part of the plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae is washed with water in advance to remove foreign substances, and then, as it is or dried, and then chopped or crushed as necessary, and the extraction solvent Extract with contact. The extraction can be performed by contacting with an extraction solvent according to a conventional method such as an immersion method, but a supercritical extraction method can also be used.

  As an extraction solvent, water; lower alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, propanol; polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin; ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, methyl propionate, etc. Esters; Ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; Ethers such as ethyl ether and isopropyl ether; Hydrocarbon solvents such as n-hexane, toluene and chloroform, and the like. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Used.

  Among these extraction solvents, the extract obtained has a tyrosinase activity inhibitory action and an antioxidant action, and also from the viewpoint of skin irritation and from the viewpoint that it can be widely applied to cosmetics. In water, hydrophilic solvents such as water, lower alcohols and polyhydric alcohols are suitable. Preferable examples of using this hydrophilic solvent include, for example, water, lower alcohols (especially ethanol), or polyhydric alcohols (especially 1,3-butylene glycol) alone, or water and lower alcohols. (Especially use of a mixed solvent of ethanol) or a mixed solvent of water and a polyhydric alcohol (especially 1,3-butylene glycol), among others, a mixed solvent of water and 1,3-butylene glycol Is most preferred.

  The mixing ratio in the case of using a mixed solvent is, for example, 1: 1 to 25: 1 in a volume ratio (hereinafter the same) if the mixed solvent is water and ethanol, and 1: 1 if the mixed solvent is water and glycerin. If it is -20: 1 and it is a mixed solvent of water and 1,3-butylene glycol, it is preferable to set it as the range of 1: 1 to 20: 1.

  In addition, the weight ratio between the flower part (dried) of the plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae and the extraction solvent is preferably in the range of 1: 1 to 1:50, more preferably 1:10 to 1:30. Range.

  In preparing the extract, the pH is not particularly limited, but it is generally preferably in the range of 4-9. In this sense, if necessary, the extraction solvent is blended with an alkaline adjusting agent such as sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate or potassium hydroxide, or an acidic adjusting agent such as citric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid. You may adjust so that it may become pH of.

  Extraction conditions such as extraction temperature and extraction time vary depending on the type and pH of the solvent used. For example, water, 1,3-butylene glycol, or a mixture of water and 1,3-butylene glycol is used as the solvent. The extraction temperature is preferably in the range of 40 ° C to 95 ° C, more preferably in the range of 60 ° C to 90 ° C, and the extraction time is preferably 30 minutes to 6 hours, more preferably 1 to 1. The range is 4 hours.

  In addition, you may perform a hydrolysis process as needed at the time of the extraction liquid preparation as a pre-stage of the extraction process of this invention, or in parallel with extraction. As a result, the storage stability of the flower part extract of plants belonging to the genus Buttonaceae may be improved and the extract as a cosmetic preparation may be used more effectively.

  In the case of subjecting the extract to an enzymatic hydrolysis treatment, examples of the enzyme include proteolytic enzymes such as actinase, papain and pepsin, starch degrading enzymes such as glucoamylase, α-amylase and β-amylase, cellulase, hemicellulase and pectinase. It is preferable to use one kind selected from a fibrinolytic enzyme and a lipolytic enzyme such as lipase, or a combination of one kind or two or more kinds of enzymes selected from these enzyme groups.

  The amount of the enzyme added is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2.0%, based on the solid content of the flower part of the plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae. It is in the range of wt%.

  In general, the extract prepared as described above may be adjusted to a pH of 4 to 8 and used as it is as a cosmetic compounding agent as it is or as a desired concentration by vacuum concentration or the like. You may do it. In addition, the extract may be dried by a conventional method such as spray drying.

  Further, the extract prepared as described above may be used as a cosmetic compounding agent after being refrigerated for a certain period of time in order to enhance storage stability and the like.

  The extract of the present invention prepared as described above has remarkable tyrosinase activity inhibitory action, antioxidant action and MMP activity inhibitory action as shown in the test examples described later, and is less irritating to the skin and biologically safe. Therefore, cosmetics containing the extract should maintain the skin in a youthful and healthy state by preventing the generation of wrinkles, sagging, spots and freckles or improving their symptoms. Can do.

  Cosmetics containing the flower part extract of plants belonging to the genus Button family of the present invention include, for example, basic cosmetics such as emulsions, creams, lotions, essences, packs, lipsticks, foundations, liquid foundations, makeup press powders Examples include makeup cosmetics such as cheeks and white powder, cleansing cosmetics such as facial cleansers, body shampoos, and soaps, and bath agents, but are not limited thereto.

  The blending amount of the flower part extract of the plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae in the cosmetics of the present invention is generally 0.002 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in the case of basic cosmetics, as the solid content of the extract. Is in the range of 0.02 to 0.2% by weight, in the case of makeup cosmetics, generally in the range of 0.002 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.02 to 0.2% by weight. In the case of a material, it is generally in the range of 0.002 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 7.0% by weight.

  The cosmetics of the present invention include, in addition to extracts of flower parts of plants belonging to the genus Buttonaceae as an essential component, components commonly used in cosmetics, such as oily components, surfactants (synthetic systems, natural products systems) ), A moisturizer, a thickener, an antiseptic / bactericidal agent, a powder component, an ultraviolet absorber, an antioxidant, a pigment, a fragrance and the like can be appropriately blended as necessary. Moreover, as long as the effectiveness and characteristics of the flower part extract of the plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae of the present invention are not impaired, it may be combined with other physiologically active ingredients in cosmetics.

  Here, as the oil component, for example, olive oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, soybean oil, rice oil, rice germ oil, palm oil, palm oil, cacao oil, meadow foam oil, sheer butter, tea tree oil, avocado oil, Oils derived from plants such as macadamia nut oil and plant-derived squalane; Fats derived from animals such as mink oil and turtle oil; waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, rice wax, lanolin; liquid paraffin, petrolatum, paraffin wax, squalane, etc. Hydrocarbons; fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, cis-11-eicosenoic acid; higher alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol; isopropyl myristate, palmitic acid Isopropyl, me Butyl phosphate, 2-ethylhexyl glycerides, higher fatty acid octyldodecyl (octyl stearate dodecyl and the like), and the synthetic esters and synthetic triglycerides such like.

Examples of the surfactant include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters; fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates, polyoxyethylene fatty amine sulfates, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether sulfates, Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, α-sulfonated fatty acid alkyl ester salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether phosphates, Quaternary ammonium salt, primary to tertiary fatty amine salt, trialkylbenzylammonium salt, alkylpyridinium salt, 2-alkyl-1-alkyl-1-hydroxyethylimidazolinium salt, N N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxymethylammoniobetaine, N, N, N-trialkyl-N-, N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxymethylammoniobetaine Amphoteric surfactants such as alkylene ammoniocarboxybetaine and N-acylamidopropyl-N ′, N′-dimethyl-N′-β-hydroxypropylammoniosulfobetaine can be used.
In addition, as emulsifiers or emulsifiers, stevia derivatives such as enzyme-treated stevia, lecithin and its derivatives, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented cereals (wheat, legumes, cereals, etc.), juzairo (Rhamnaceae zizyphus joazeiro) An extract or the like can also be blended.

  Examples of humectants include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, and sugars such as trehalose, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, and mucopolysaccharides. (For example, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, chondroitin and its derivatives, heparin and its derivatives, etc.), elastin and its derivatives, collagen and its derivatives, NMF related substances, lactic acid, urea, higher fatty acid octyldodecyl, seaweed extract, beech extract Products, seafood-derived collagen and derivatives thereof, various amino acids and derivatives thereof.

  Examples of the thickener include brown algae, green algae or red algae-derived components such as alginic acid, agar, carrageenan and fucoidan; beech extract; polysaccharides such as pectin, locust bean gum and aloe polysaccharide; xanthan gum, tragacanth gum, guar gum and the like Gums; Cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose; Synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer and acrylic acid / methacrylic acid copolymer; Hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; Polyglutamic acid and its derivatives Is mentioned.

  Examples of the antiseptic / bactericidal agent include urea; paraoxybenzoates such as methyl paraoxybenzoate, ethyl paraoxybenzoate, propyl paraoxybenzoate, and butyl paraoxybenzoate; phenoxyethanol, dichlorophene, hexachlorophene, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, benzaza chloride Luconium, salicylic acid, ethanol, undecylenic acid, phenols, jamal (imidazodenyl urea), 1,2-pentanediol, various essential oils, bark dry matter, and the like.

  Examples of powder components include sericite, titanium oxide, talc, kaolin, bentonite, zinc oxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, barium sulfate, silicic anhydride, mica, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, silk powder, and cellulose. System powders, powders of cereals (rice, wheat, corn, millet, etc.), powders of beans (soybeans, red beans, etc.).

  Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include ethyl paraaminobenzoate, ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, amyl salicylate and derivatives thereof, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, octyl cinnamate, oxybenzone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4 -Methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-tertiarybutyl-4-methoxybenzoylmethane, 2- (2-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl) benzotriazole, urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate, aloe extract, etc. .

  Antioxidants include, for example, butylhydroxyanisole, butylhydroxytoluene, propyl gallate, vitamin E and its derivatives, beech extract, rice extract and the like.

  Examples of physiologically active ingredients include whitening ingredients such as t-cycloamino acid derivatives, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, hydroquinone derivatives, ellagic acid and derivatives thereof, resorcinol derivatives, tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof, 4-methoxy Salicylic acid potassium salt, magnolignan (5,5′-dipropyl-biphenyl-2,2′-diol), 4-HPB (rhodenol, 4- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -4-butanol)), AMP (adenosine monophos) Fate, adenosine monophosphate), placenta extract, nicotinic acid and its derivatives, Sakuhakuhi extract, yukinoshita extract, rice bran extract, rice bran extract hydrolyzate, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented rice, lactic acid bacteria fermented cereals ( Wheat, beans, cereals), white coconut extract, white coconut hydrolyzed extract Murasakixikib extract, lotus seed fermented product, ginseng extract, pearl barley fermented product, royal jelly fermented product, sake lees fermented product, Pandanus amaryllifolius Roxb. Extract, Arcangelicia flava Merrilli extract , Chamomile extract (trade name: Chamomira ET), seaweed extract such as kombu, seaweed extract such as sea cucumber, linoleic acid and its derivatives or processed products (eg liposomal linoleic acid), 2,5- Dihydroxybenzoic acid derivatives, etc. are also used as skin aging preventing / beautifying components such as collagen derived from animals or fish and derivatives thereof, elastin and derivatives thereof, nicotinic acid and derivatives thereof, glycyrrhizic acid and derivatives thereof (dipotassium salt, etc.), t -Cycloamino acid derivatives, vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives Body, allantoin, α-hydroxy acids, diisopropylamine dichloroacetate, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, gentian extract, licorice extract, pearl barley extract, chamomile extract, carrot extract, aloe extract, etc., rice extract water Examples include hydrolysates, rice bran extract hydrolysates, rice fermentation extracts, honey comb extracts, anaaaosa extracts, seaweed extracts such as sea cucumbers, Sohakuhihi extract, and Zizyphus joazeiro extract.

  Examples of the kojic acid derivatives include kojic acid esters such as kojic acid monobutyrate, kojic acid monocaprate, kojic acid monopalmitate, kojic acid dibutyrate, kojic acid ethers, kojic acid sugar derivatives such as kojic acid glucoside, etc. However, as the ascorbic acid derivatives, for example, L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate sodium, L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium, L-ascorbic acid-2-sulfate sodium, L-ascorbic acid-2 -Ascorbic acid ester salts such as magnesium sulfate, L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside (2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid), L-ascorbic acid-5-glucoside (5-O-α) -D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbine Acid) ascorbic acid sugar derivatives, acylated 6-positions of these ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (acyl groups are hexanoyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, etc.), L-ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, L-ascorbic acid tetra L-ascorbic acid tetrafatty acid esters such as lauric acid ester, 3-O-ethylascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate-6-O-palmitate sodium and the like are hydroquinone derivatives such as arbutin (hydroquinone). -Β-D-glucopyranoside), α-arbutin (hydroquinone-α-D-glucopyranoside) and the like, and as resorcinol derivatives, for example, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 4-isoamylresorcinol and the like are 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid. Derivatives and For example, 2,5-diacetoxybenzoic acid, 2-acetoxy-5-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-5-propionyloxybenzoic acid, etc., and nicotinic acid derivatives include, for example, nicotinic acid amide, nicotinic acid benzyl, etc. However, examples of the vitamin E derivative include vitamin E nicotinate and vitamin E linoleate, and examples of the α-hydroxy acid include lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, citric acid, and α-hydroxyoctanoic acid.

  Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to production examples, examples (formulation examples), and test examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following, all parts are parts by weight, and all percentages are% by weight.

Production Example 1 Preparation of peony flower part extract (1)
30g 1,3-butylene glycol solution (purified water / 1,3 butylene glycol = 70/30) was obtained by drying and pulverizing the flowers of the peony (Paeonia lactiflora) plant belonging to the genus Buttonaceae. ) It was brought into contact with 300 g and extracted at 80 ° C. for 2 hours. Next, the obtained extract was filtered to obtain 260 g of a light yellow to brown transparent flower part extract (solid content concentration 2.59%).

Production Example 2 Preparation of peony flower part extract (2)
As an extraction solvent, 280 g of a light yellow to brown transparent flower part extract is obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1, except that 1,3-butylene glycol is used instead of 30% 1,3-butylene glycol solution. (Solid content concentration 0.9%) was obtained.

Production Example 3 Preparation of peony flower part extract (3)
As an extraction solvent, instead of 30% 1,3-butylene glycol, 260 g of a brown transparent flower part extract was obtained by the same method as in Production Example 1 (solid content concentration 1). 37%).

Production Example 4 Preparation of flower extract of peony flower (1)
As a plant belonging to the genus Button family, 275 g of a light yellow to brown transparent flower part extract was obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that instead of peonies, peony (Paeonia japonica) was used. (Solid concentration 2.56%).

Production Example 5 Preparation of extract of flower part of peonies (1)
As a plant belonging to the genus Button family, 278 g of a light yellow to brown transparent flower part extract is obtained by the same method as in Production Example 1 except that sae peony is used instead of peony. (Solid content concentration 2.51%).

Production Example 6 Preparation of button flower extract (1)
As a plant belonging to the genus Button family, 278 g of a light yellow-brown transparent flower part extract is obtained in the same manner as in Production Example 1 except that the flower part of a button (Paeonia suffruticosa) is used instead of peonies. Obtained (solid content concentration 1.2%).

Production Example 7 Enzymatic decomposition solution of peony flower (1)
30 g of a pulverized product obtained by drying and pulverizing the flower part of a peony (Paeonia lactiflora) belonging to the genus Buttonaceae is brought into contact with 300 g of purified water, and 0.3 g of pectinase is added to this solution, After carrying out the enzymatic decomposition treatment at 40 ° C. for 1 hour, extraction was carried out at 80 ° C. for 1 hour. The obtained extract was filtered to obtain 260 g of a light yellow to brown transparent flower part extract (solid content concentration 1.8%).

Example 1. Cream [Component A] Liquid paraffin 5.0
Hexalan (Note 1) 4.0
Paraffin 5.0
Glyceryl monostearate 2.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 6.0
Butylparaben 0.1
(Note 1) Technoble Co., Ltd. glyceryl trioctanoate
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
Glycerin 5.0
Carboxymethyl monostearate 0.1
Moiston C (Note 2) 1.0
Amount of purified water 100 parts (Note 2) NMF component manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.
[C component]
Perfume
The components A and B were each heated to 80 ° C. or higher and then mixed by stirring. After this was cooled to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to obtain a cream.

Example 2 Emulsion [Component A] Part Liquid paraffin 6.0
Hexalan 4.0
Jojoba oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 2.0
Soy lecithin 1.5
Methylparaben 0.15
Ethylparaben 0.03
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Carboxymethylcellulose 0.3
Sodium hyaluronate 0.01
Amount of purified water totaling 100 parts
[C component]
Perfume
The components A and B were each heated to 80 ° C. or higher and then mixed by stirring. After cooling this to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to obtain an emulsion.

Example 3 FIG. Emulsion An emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that 5.0 parts of the extract of Production Example 6 was used instead of the extract of Production Example 1 in the component B of Example 2.

Example 4 Lotion [component A] part Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
Ethanol 10.0
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Methylparaben 0.2
Citric acid 0.1
Sodium citrate 0.3
Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1
Perfume
Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount Purified water Amount that makes 100 parts in total
The above ingredients were mixed to obtain a lotion.

Example 5 FIG. Lotion [A component] part olive oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (5.5) cetyl alcohol 5.0
Butylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
Ethanol 5.0
Glycerin 5.0
1,3-butylene glycol 5.0
Methylparaben 0.1
Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount Purified water Amount that makes 100 parts in total
[C component]
Perfume
After each component A and component B was heated to 80 ° C. or higher, the component B was added to the component A and stirred, and further homogenized with Hiscotron (5000 rpm) for 2 minutes. After cooling this to 50 degreeC, C component was added and stirred and mixed, and also it cooled to 30 degrees C or less, and the lotion was obtained.

Example 6 Lotion lotion A milky lotion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that 5.0 parts of the extract of Production Example 6 was used instead of the extract of Production Example 1 in the component B of Example 5.

Example 7 Emulsion [Component A] Part Liquid paraffin 6.0
Hexalan 4.0
Jojoba oil 1.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate 2.0
Soy lecithin 1.5
Methylparaben 0.15
Ethylparaben 0.03
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside 2.0
Potassium hydroxide 0.5
Glycerin 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Carboxymethylcellulose 0.3
Sodium hyaluronate 0.01

Amount of purified water totaling 100 parts
[C component]

Fragrance
Appropriate amount
The components A and B were each heated to 80 ° C. or higher and then mixed by stirring. After cooling this to 50 ° C., component C was added and further stirred and mixed to obtain an emulsion.

Example 8 FIG. Emulsion Other than using 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium in place of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 parts of potassium hydroxide in the component B of Example 5. Obtained an emulsion in the same manner as in Example.

Example 9 Emulsion In addition to using 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate and 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate in place of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 parts of potassium hydroxide in the component B of Example 5 Obtained an emulsion in the same manner as in Example 5.

Example 10 Emulsion In the component B of Example 5, the emulsion was prepared in the same manner as in Example 5 except that 2.0 parts of arbutin was used instead of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 parts of potassium hydroxide. Obtained.

Example 11 Latex In the component B of Example 5, in place of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 parts of potassium hydroxide, a rice bran extract hydrolyzate (trade name “Grace Snow” manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.) An emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that 5.0 parts of * Snow * HP ", solid concentration 3.5%) were used.

Example 12 Emulsion White coconut extract (trade name “Sinablanca-WH” manufactured by Technoble Co., Ltd.) instead of 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 part of potassium hydroxide in the B component of Example 5 A solid emulsion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that 5.0 parts of a solid content concentration of 1.0% was used.

Example 13 Emulsion Example 5 in the component B of Example 5, except that 2.0 parts of L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and 0.5 part of potassium hydroxide were used instead of 1.0 part of γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid In the same manner as in No. 5, an emulsion was obtained.

Example 14 Liquid foundation [component A] part Stearic acid 2.4
Propylene glycol monostearate 2.0
Cetostearyl alcohol 0.2
Liquid lanolin 2.0
Liquid paraffin 3.0
Isopropyl myristate 8.5
Propylparaben 0.05
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
Sodium carboxymethylcellulose 0.2
Bentonite 0.5
Propylene glycol 4.0
Triethanolamine 1.1
Methylparaben 0.1
Purified water Amount of total 100 parts [C component]
Titanium oxide 8.0
Talc 4.0
Coloring pigment appropriate amount The components A and B were heated and mixed and stirred. This was reheated, the above C component was added, poured into a mold, and stirred until it reached room temperature to obtain a liquid foundation.

Example 15. Cream foundation [component A] part Stearic acid 5.0
Cetanol 2.0
Glyceryl monostearate 3.0
Liquid paraffin 5.0
Squalane 3.0
Isopropyl myristate 8.0
Polyoxyethylene (20) glyceryl monostearate 2.0
Propylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
Sorbitol 3.0
1,3-butylene glycol 5.0
Triethanolamine 1.5
Methylparaben 0.1
Purified water Amount of total 100 parts [C component]
Titanium oxide 8.0
Talc 2.0
Kaolin 5.0
Bentonite 1.0
Coloring pigment appropriate amount [Component D]
Fragrance 0.3
Component C was mixed and pulverized with a pulverizer. The component B was mixed, and the pulverized component C was added thereto and uniformly dispersed in a colloid mill. The components A and B and C dispersed uniformly were each heated to 80 ° C., and then the components A were added to the components B and C while stirring, and further homogenized with Hiscotron (5000 rpm) for 2 minutes. After cooling this to 50 degreeC, D component was added and stirred and mixed, and also it cooled to 30 degrees C or less, stirring, and obtained the cream foundation.

Example 16 Body shampoo [component A] part N-lauroylmethylalanine sodium 25.0
Palm oil fatty acid potassium liquid (40%) 26.0
Palm oil fatty acid diethanolamide 3.0
Methylparaben 0.1
[B component]
Extraction liquid of Production Example 1 5.0
1,3-butylene glycol 2.0
Purified water Amount to be 100 parts A component and B component are each heated to 80 ° C and dissolved uniformly, then B component is added to A component and stirring is continued to cool to room temperature to obtain a body shampoo It was.

Test Example 1 Tyrosinase activity inhibitory action (tyrosine-tyrosinase reaction method)

First, a 125 U / mL tyrosinase enzyme solution was prepared using McIlvain buffer (pH 6.8). Next, after preparing the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 so as to have final concentrations of 0.5% and 1.0% using purified water, 100 μL of the solution was added to a 96-well microplate. Per well. To this, 0.03% L-tyrosine solution was similarly added at 100 μL / well and mixed well. 100 μL / well of the tyrosinase enzyme solution was added thereto and mixed well. The absorbance of the solution was measured immediately at a wavelength of 490 nm, reacted at room temperature, and after 10 minutes, the absorbance at a wavelength of 490 nm was measured again. The tyrosinase activity index was determined from the following equation. Moreover, what was operated similarly using a 30% 1,3- butylene glycol solution (purified water / 1,3-butylene glycol = 70/30) instead of the treated product was used as a blank.
Tyrosinase activity index = [(T ₁₀ −T ₀ ) / (B ₁₀ −B ₀ )] × 100 (%)
(In the formula, T ₁₀ is the absorbance of a solution to which a sample after 10 minutes has passed since the start of the test, and B ₁₀ is a 30% 1,3-butylene glycol solution instead of the sample after 10 minutes from the start of the test. The absorbance of the added solution, T ₀ is the absorbance of the solution to which the sample immediately after the start of the test was added, and B ₀ is the solution to which 30% 1,3-butylene glycol solution was added instead of the sample immediately after the start of the test. Absorbance is shown).

The results of Test Example 1 are shown in Table 1.
[Table 1]

  As shown in Table 1, it was revealed that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 has a remarkably excellent tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, since the positive control arbutin also showed a tyrosinase activity inhibitory action, it was also confirmed that this experimental system was normal.

Test Example 2 Inhibition of intracellular tyrosinase activity [Test method]
Cultured B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells are seeded at 8 × 10 ³ cells / well in a 96-well microplate and pre-treated for 1 day under conditions of 37 ° C. and 5% CO _{2 in} RPMI medium containing 10% calf serum (FBS). After culturing, the extract of the peony flower part of Production Example 1 was replaced with a solution diluted to a final concentration of 0.1% and 0.5% in an RPMI medium containing 10% FBS. Cultured for 2 days. Next, after removing the culture solution and adding 0.3 mg / mL MTT solution or adding a surfactant (Triton X-100) and 5 mM L-dopa solution and reacting at 37 ° C. The MTT value was measured at a wavelength of 570-630 nm and the dopa value was measured at a wavelength of 490 nm using a microplate reader (Model 450, manufactured by Bio-Rad).
For comparison, the same test was performed with PBS (-) and with kojic acid (positive control).

The results are shown in Table 2.
[Table 2]

  As shown in Table 2, it was revealed that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 has a remarkable tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect in a concentration-dependent manner without damaging cells. The positive control kojic acid was also found to have a normal tyrosinase activity-inhibiting action, confirming that this experimental system was normal.

Test Example 3 DPPH radical scavenging test First, 2.4 parts of DPPH was dissolved in 20 parts of ethanol, and then 20 parts of purified water was added to prepare a DPPH solution. To 24 parts of this DPPH solution, 19.2 parts of 18 v / v% ethanol solution and 4.8 parts of 2M acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer (pH 5.5) were added to prepare a DPPH addition solution. In addition, in order to subtract the effect of the color of the extract itself on the test, a 50 v / v% ethanol solution was used instead of the DPPH solution, and a solution obtained by mixing an 18 v / v% ethanol solution and a 2M acetic acid-sodium acetate buffer solution was used. A control solution was used.
A test solution was prepared by diluting the peony flower extract of Production Example 1 with purified water to a final concentration of 0.1%, 1.0%, and 10.0%. The solution and DPPH-added solution or control solution were mixed at a ratio of 1: 3, allowed to stand at room temperature for 10 minutes, and the absorbance at 550 nm when each test solution was mixed with DPPH-added solution and each test solution were also controlled. The difference in absorbance at 550 nm when mixed with the liquid was measured to confirm the remaining amount of DPPH radicals.
In addition, as a control, instead of the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1, a 30% 1,3-butylene glycol solution was used in the same manner as described above, and each DPPH radical residual rate obtained here was measured. The relative value of the DPPH radical residual rate at the time of sample addition was determined and used as the DPPH radical residual rate. Moreover, in order to confirm whether the test system is functioning normally, the same test was also performed when vitamin E (final concentration 5 μM) was added as a positive control instead of the sample solution.

The results are shown in Table 3.
[Table 3]

  As shown in Table 3, it was revealed that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 has a significantly superior DPPH radical scavenging action in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, since the positive control vitamin E similarly showed DPPH radical scavenging action, it was confirmed that this experimental system was normal.

Test Example 4 Active oxygen scavenging ability (SOD-like activity)
[Test method]
0.2 μM Tris-HCl buffer solution 50 μL, 1 mM ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) disodium solution 20 μL, 0.75 mM nitroblue tetrazolium chloride (NBT) solution 10 μL, 1 mM xanthine solution 20 μL, 0.06 U / mL xanthine oxidase solution 50 μL, production A sample solution was prepared by mixing 50 μL of the peony flower part extract of Example 1 (extracts prepared to have final concentrations of 1.0% and 2.0%). This sample solution was incubated at 37 ° C. for 5 minutes to generate superoxide. Then, the absorbance at 560 nm was measured for the amount of formazan produced by reducing NBT with superoxide.
Further, as a control, instead of the extract of the peony flower part of Production Example 1, the same operation as described above was performed using a 30% 1,3-butylene glycol solution, and each sample was added to the absorbance obtained here. The relative value of the absorbance was determined and used as the superoxide residual rate (%). In addition, in order to confirm whether the test system is functioning normally, the same test was performed when 8.75 units / mL of superoxide dismutase (SOD) was added as a positive control instead of the sample solution. .

[Table 4]

  As shown in Table 5, it has been clarified that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 has an excellent SOD-like action in a concentration-dependent manner. Since the positive control SOD also showed the same effect, it was also confirmed that this experimental system was normal.

Test Example 5 Elastase activity inhibition test [Test method]
<Prepared solution>
(1) Eagle MEM containing 10% NCS
(2) Cell lysate (3) Substrate solution <Preparation method>
(1) 1 L of distilled water was added to 9.4 g of Eagle MEM medium (manufactured by Nissui Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), and the final concentration was 10% by volume NCS (calf serum), 1.4% by weight sodium bicarbonate, 0.03% by weight, respectively. Prepare by adding% glutamic acid.
(2) 1 mM PMSF, 1% Triton X-100 at 100 mM
Dissolved in Tris-HCl (pH 8.0).
(3) 100 mM succinyl-L-alanyl-L-alanyl-L-alanine-p-nitroanilide (Suc-Ala-Ala-Ala-pNA)
Dissolved in Tris-HCl (pH 8.0).
<Measurement method>
The extract of the peony flower part of Production Example 1 was diluted to a concentration of 5.0% (as a solution) to prepare a sample solution. In addition, 5% PBS (-) solution was used as a sample non-addition (control).
Normal human skin-derived fibroblasts (NB1RGB) were prepared to 1 × 10 ⁵ cells / mL with Eagle's MEM containing 10% by volume of NCS, seeded at 100 μL each in a 96-well microplate, and under 5% carbon dioxide gas and saturated water vapor. And cultured at 37 ° C. After 48 hours, the culture solution was removed, and the cells were washed once with PBS (−). Then, 50 μL of the cell lysate was added and left at room temperature for 10 minutes to lyse the cells, and this was used as an enzyme solution. It was. To a 96-well microplate, add 50 μL of the sample solution prepared by diluting the peony flower extract of Production Example 1 with purified water to a final concentration of 5.0% with respect to 50 μL of the enzyme solution. Further, 100 μL each of the substrate solution was added, followed by reaction at 37 ° C. in the dark for 2 hours. As a blank, a cell lysate was used for the test instead of the enzyme solution. Thereafter, the absorbance after the reaction at 405 nm was measured with a plate reader. The elastase activity rate was calculated from the measured value of each absorbance using the following formula (1). As a positive control, a similar test was performed using 0.037% EDTA as a sample solution.
Formula (1): Fibroblast elastase activity rate (%) = (Es-Esb) / (Ec-Ecb) × 100
Ec: Absorbance of control (PBS (-)) test group Ecb: Absorbance of control (PBS (-)) blank group Es; Absorbance of test group to which sample solution was added Esb; Absorbance of blank group to which sample solution was added

[result]
The results of Test Example 5 are shown in Table 5.
[Table 5]

  As shown in Table 5, it was revealed that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 had a remarkable elastase activity inhibitory action. In addition, since EDTA which is a positive control showed the same effect, it was also confirmed that this experimental system is normal.

Test Example 6. Collagenase activity inhibitory effect
The culture supernatant of fibroblasts (NB1RGB) in which MMP (matrix metalloproteinase) synthesis was induced using 0.25 ng / mL of IL-1α was used as a collagenase enzyme solution. 5 μg / mL trypsin was added to the collagenase enzyme solution and reacted at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes for activation treatment. The solution after stopping the reaction with 50 μg / mL trypsin inhibitor was used as a collagenase activating enzyme solution. The collagenase activity was measured by applying a type I collagenase assay kit (Primary Cell product, Inc.). In a microtube, 50 μL of the collagenase activating enzyme solution, 50 μL of a FITC-labeled type I collagen substrate solution, and 50 μL of the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 prepared so that its final concentration is 5.0%. Added. The reactivity was 30 minutes at 37 ° C., 300 μL of a reaction stop solution was added, unreacted collagen substrate was precipitated by centrifugation, and the fluorescence intensity (Ex = 485, Em = 520) of the supernatant was measured.
The same operation was performed for the group (control) to which purified water was added instead of the extract of the peony flower part, and the relative value of the fluorescence intensity relative to this control was defined as the collagenase activity rate (%). Moreover, in order to confirm whether the test system is functioning normally, the same test was performed when 1 mM EDTA was added as a positive control instead of the sample solution.

[Table 6]

  As shown in Table 6, it was revealed that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 has a markedly excellent collagenase activity inhibitory action. In addition, since EDTA which is a positive control showed the same effect, it was also confirmed that this experimental system is normal.

Test Example 7 The culture supernatant of fibroblasts (NB1RGB) in which MMP (matrix metalloprotease) synthesis was induced using 0.25 ng / mL IL-1α with gelatinase activity inhibitory effect was used as the gelatinase enzyme solution. 5 μg / mL trypsin was added to the gelatinase enzyme solution, and the mixture was reacted at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes for activation treatment. The solution after stopping the reaction with 50 μg / mL trypsin inhibitor was used as a gelatinase-activating enzyme solution. After adding 120 μL of gelatinase activating enzyme solution and 96 μL of the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 to a 96-well microplate, the final concentration is 5.0%, and then 1 μg / mL.
Add 20 μL of substrate solution (MOCAc-pro-leu-gly-leu-a2pr (DNP) -ala-arg-NH ₂ , Peptide Institute) and measure the initial fluorescence intensity (Ex = 355 nm, Em = 460 nm). The reaction was allowed to proceed for 30 minutes at room temperature. The increase amount obtained by subtracting the initial value from the fluorescence intensity after 30 minutes was determined. The same operation was performed for the group (control) to which purified water was added instead of the peonies flower part extract, and the relative value of the increase in fluorescence intensity relative to this control was defined as the gelatinase activity rate (%). Moreover, in order to confirm whether the test system is functioning normally, the same test was performed when 1 mM EDTA was added as a positive control instead of the sample solution.

[Table 7]

  As shown in Table 7, it was revealed that the peony flower part extract of Production Example 1 has a remarkable gelatinase activity inhibitory action. In addition, since EDTA which is a positive control showed the same effect, it was also confirmed that this experimental system is normal.

Moreover, also about the extract of the flower part of the button of Production Example 6, when the evaluation test of Test Examples 1 to 7 was performed, the tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect excellent as in the extract of the flower part of Peony of Production Example 1, Antioxidant effects and MMP (elastase, collagenase and gelatinase) activity inhibitory effects were observed.

Claims (3)

  It is obtained from a peony or a flower part of a button family (Paeoniaceae) button genus (Paeonia) with a mixed solvent of water and 1,3-butylene glycol, and has an elastase activity inhibitory action, a collagenase activity inhibitory action and a gelatinase activity inhibitory action. An anti-aging cosmetic comprising an extract as an active ingredient.   It is obtained from a peony or a flower part of a button belonging to the genus Paeoniaceae (Paeoniace) or a flower part of the button with a mixed solvent of water and 1,3-butylene glycol, and an extract having an inhibitory action on tyrosinase activity is used as an active ingredient Whitening cosmetics. A method for producing a cosmetic comprising a step of extracting from a peony or a flower part of a button belonging to the genus Paeoniaceae with a solvent obtained from a mixed solvent of water and 1,3-butylene glycol. A method for producing a cosmetic, characterized in that the ratio of solvent water to 1,3-butylene glycol is 1: 1 to 20: 1.