JP2994006B2 - Stretchable long-fiber woven fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, to a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric in which polyester yarn and spandex yarn are interwoven. It relates to the manufacturing method.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, stretchable long-fiber woven fabric composed of nylon yarn and spandex yarn has a unidirectional stretch,
Ski wear is mainly used, and it is often used as sportswear such as swimwear.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The stretchable long fiber woven fabric formed by weaving nylon yarn and spandex yarn has a surface gloss because of the use of long fibers, but has a desired texture, for example, various textures from organdy to silk spinning. It could not be set appropriately.

By realizing the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric having these various feelings, it is possible to expand applications not only to conventional sportswear but also to one-pieces and blouses. For this reason, such a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric is required not only to have stretchability but also to be thin and drape.

Therefore, it is a first object of the present invention to provide a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric that is thin and has drape properties and can set various feelings. A second object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric that can easily set the feeling of such stretchable long-fiber woven fabric.

[Means for solving the problem]

The method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to the present invention is characterized in that a coated elastic yarn (hereinafter, also referred to as “coated elastic yarn I”) having a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn and a soluble yarn as a sheath yarn is either a weft yarn or a warp yarn. After weaving using the polyester yarn A for the other and then dissolving the soluble yarn completely,
The polyester yarn A is reduced in weight.

In the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric obtained by the above-described production method, the polyurethane elastic yarn, which is the core yarn left in the coated elastic yarn in which the sheath yarn is completely dissolved, is one of the weft yarn and the warp yarn,
The other is the polyester yarn A which has been weight-reduced after weaving.

The polyurethane elastic yarn is generally called "spandex yarn" in Japan, and "spandex yarn" in the following description means "polyurethane elastic yarn".

Weight reduction processing means processing to reduce only a part of weight or volume, and processing to completely dissolve and remove the yarn cannot be called weight reduction processing. Therefore, the soluble yarn is completely eliminated, so complete dissolution processing is performed instead of weight reduction processing,
The polyester yarn A is subjected to a weight reduction process for removing only a part thereof. In the following description, the term “weight reduction processing” refers to processing in which only a part of the yarn is removed.

In the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric of the present invention, the spandex yarn is used for one of the warp and the weft, and the other is a polyester yarn. As described above, in the present invention, the polyester yarn is interwoven with the spandex yarn. The drape property is low in the case of the woven fabric of only the polyester yarn, but the drape property is extremely improved by interweaving with the spandex yarn. This is because polyester yarns are easier to control the degree of weight loss than nylon yarns and the like, whereby a desired feeling can be obtained. The spandex yarn constituting the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric of the present invention may be bare, but if covered with a reduced amount of polyester yarn, prevention of misregistration and bulkiness and softness are achieved. It is excellent in that it gives a good feel and further improves the drapability.

The spandex yarn used in the present invention may be of any type, but preferably has a fineness of 10 to 140 denier, and if it is less than this range, there is a risk of breaking (spandex yarn breakage) at the time of soluble or weight-reducing processing. If it exceeds, there is a possibility that slip-in may easily occur in the woven fabric after the weight reduction processing. The elongation of the spandex yarn is desirably 300% or less. If the elongation exceeds 300%, weaving may be difficult, or the surface of the woven fabric may be grained or slip (slip).

The polyester yarn A interwoven with the (naked) spandex yarn is not limited to a specific polyester type, and may be any one as long as it is appropriately reduced in weight. The type of polyester of the polyester yarn A may be, for example, either a high-pressure dyeable (130 ° C) regular polyester yarn or a modified polyester yarn obtained by adding a third component to high-pressure dyeable (120 ° C or less). The raw yarn or crimped yarn may be used. The preferred fineness of the polyester yarn A is, for example, 20
When the polyester yarn is a filament yarn, the preferred number of filaments is, for example, 1
~ 96, in other words, 1.5 to 20 denier single yarn denier.

The polyester yarn A, wherein the spandex yarn is one of the weft yarn and the warp yarn and the polyester yarn A is the other.
The stretchable long-fiber woven fabric whose weight has been reduced is, for example,
It is manufactured as follows. That is, after weaving the coated elastic yarn I for one of the weft and warp yarns and the polyester yarn A for the other, weaving the coated elastic yarn I
The soluble yarn serving as the sheath yarn is completely dissolved, and the polyester yarn A is subjected to weight reduction processing. The complete dissolution of the soluble yarn and the weight reduction processing of the polyester yarn A may be performed simultaneously or separately. If you do it separately,
Either may be first.

The material of the soluble yarn is not particularly limited as long as the yarn can be more easily dissolved than the spandex yarn in the coexistence of the spandex yarn, and for example, a water-soluble yarn such as a polyvinyl alcohol fiber yarn, a modified polyester yarn, and a nylon. It may be a thread or the like.

As the coated elastic yarn I, a covered yarn in which a soluble yarn is wound around a spandex yarn in a coil shape, an entangled yarn in which a soluble yarn is fluidly entangled with a spandex yarn, or the like can be used. In the case of the covered yarn, the spandex yarn / soluble yarn is preferably (20 to 140 denier) / (20 to 150 denier) (weight ratio of 1/1 to 1/5), and the draft of the spandex yarn when winding the soluble yarn. Magnification is 100-3
00% is preferable, the number of twists is preferably 100 to 1500 T / m, and the fineness of the soluble yarn is preferably 20 to 150 denier. Outside of these ranges, there is a risk of breaking the spandex during weaving and poor weaving. In the case of the entangled yarn, the spandex yarn / soluble yarn is preferably (20 to 140 denier) / (20 to 150 denier) (weight ratio of 1/1 to 1/5), and the draft ratio immediately before the entanglement of the spandex yarn is preferred. Is
100-300% is preferred, and the fluid pressure during confounding is 1.0-5.0kg / c
m ² is preferable, and the overfeed ratio at the time of confounding is 1 to 10%.
Preferably, the fineness of the soluble yarn is 20 to 150 denier, and the single yarn denier is more preferably 2 denier or less. Outside of these ranges, the entanglement strength is weak, and there is a risk of poor weaving properties.

The complete dissolution of the soluble yarn can be performed using an agent that leaves the spandex yarn, which is the core yarn, depending on the material of the soluble yarn. For example, when a water-soluble fiber yarn such as a polyvinyl alcohol fiber yarn is used as the soluble yarn, by exposing it to water at an appropriate temperature, when a nylon yarn is used as the soluble yarn, an acid having a high concentration, for example, In the case of concentrated hydrochloric acid, concentrated sulfuric acid, concentrated nitric acid, formic acid or the like at a temperature of 20 ° C. or more, and when a modified polyester yarn is used as a soluble yarn, 1% owf in a 3% owf sodium hydroxide solution at 100 ° C.
It is possible to completely dissolve each under the condition of immersion for more than time and remove the soluble yarn.

The weight reduction processing of the polyester yarn A is performed, for example, as follows. It can be carried out by immersing in a 3% owf sodium hydroxide solution for 1 hour at 40 ° C. or higher. The degree of weight reduction processing of the polyester yarn A is not particularly limited, but the weight reduction rate is preferably 5 to 30% by weight. When the weight loss rate is within this range, it is excellent not only in that it has elasticity but also in that it has a soft feel and drape, but if it exceeds this range, strong deterioration extremely progresses and bursts. The strength is weakened and the thread may break. When polyester yarn is used as the soluble yarn,
Complete dissolution of the soluble yarn and weight reduction processing of the polyester yarn A can be performed simultaneously.

The woven structure of the coated elastic yarn I and the polyester yarn A is, for example, a plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave, or a change structure (or a combination thereof; sometimes referred to as an applied structure) thereof. For example, this is done as follows. Generally, when the coated elastic yarn I is used for the weft, care must be taken to control the reed width or loom width and the tension of the weft. On the contrary, when the coated elastic yarn is used for the warp, warping is performed. Attention should be paid to the tension control of all the warps in the process.

[Action]

By interweaving the polyester yarn and the spandex yarn, a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric with excellent drape property can be obtained. Moreover, the degree of weight reduction of the polyester yarn is easier to control than that of a nylon yarn or the like, so that a desired feeling can be obtained.

When the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn A is in the range of 5 to 30% by weight, it is excellent not only in elasticity but also in soft feel and drape.

By blending the coated elastic yarn I with the spandex yarn as the core yarn and the soluble yarn as the sheath yarn and the polyester yarn A, the soluble yarn is completely dissolved, and the polyester yarn A is reduced in weight, so that the feeling is further improved. A woven fabric is obtained.

When the spandex yarn is coated with the reduced polyester yarn, the contact is increased and the spandex yarn is excellent in preventing slippage.

〔Example〕

Hereinafter, specific examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be described, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

First, each of the first to third aspects of the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.

-Example 1-Using the coated elastic yarn I and the polyester yarn A shown in Table 1, a woven fabric having the woven fabric structure shown in the table was woven using the yarns shown in the table. The obtained fabric was treated with a 3% owf solution of NaOH (100%
C.) for 1 hour to completely dissolve the sheath yarn, and at the same time, reduce the weight of the polyester yarn A, and perform a nonionic soft / antistatic finishing treatment to obtain a stretchable long fiber fabric. Table 1 also shows the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn A.

-Example 2-Using the coated elastic yarn I and the polyester yarn A shown in Table 1, a woven fabric having the woven fabric structure shown in the table was woven using the yarns shown in the table. The obtained woven fabric is subjected to a liquid flow treatment with hot water of 80 ° C. for 1 hour to completely dissolve the sheath yarn.
Of 5% owf treatment liquid (96 ° C.) for 1 hour, and subjected to a finishing treatment of nonionic soft and antistatic treatment to obtain a stretchable long fiber fabric. Polyester thread A
Table 1 also shows the weight loss rate.

-Examples 3 to 6-In Example 1, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the yarn used for weaving, the use of yarn, the woven fabric structure, and the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn A were changed as shown in Table 1. Thus, a stretchable long fiber fabric was obtained.

However, when a modified polyester yarn was used as the sheath yarn, complete dissolution was carried out at 96 ° C using a 3% owf treatment solution of NaOH.
Performed by liquid flow treatment for hours. In addition, polyester yarn A
In the case where a high-pressure dyeable polyester yarn was used, a weight reduction process was performed by a liquid flow treatment at 96 ° C. for 1 hour using a 3% owf treatment solution of NaOH.

-Comparative Example 1- In Example 1, the sheath yarn was completely dissolved after weaving in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyester yarn A was not subjected to weight reduction processing. A long-fiber woven fabric was obtained.

Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, a nylon yarn (monofilament: 20d, manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was used instead of the polyester yarn A, and the sheath yarn was completely dissolved, but the nylon yarn was not subjected to weight reduction processing. Thus, an elastic long fiber fabric was obtained.

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, a nylon thread (normal nylon manufactured by Toray Industries; 50d, 24 filaments) was used in place of the polyester thread A, and the nylon thread was subjected to weight reduction processing at 45% formic acid concentration in hot water. The treatment was carried out at 40 ° C. for 4 hours, but it was completely dissolved, and a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric could not be obtained.
In addition, even if the conditions for weight reduction processing of the nylon yarn were changed to a gentle one such as a treatment for 3 hours at a concentration of 35% at ordinary temperature (about 25 ° C.), complete dissolution was achieved.

Comparative Example 4 In Example 4, after the weaving, the sheath yarn was completely dissolved in the same manner as in Example 4 by using a treatment solution (100 ° C.) in which 3 g / stearyltrimethylammonium chloride was added to 3% owf of NaOH. A stretchable long-fiber woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4, except that the weight reduction of the yarn A was not performed.

-Comparative Example 5- In Example 5, the sheath yarn was completely dissolved after weaving in the same manner as in Comparative Example 4, except that the polyester yarn A was not subjected to weight reduction processing. A long-fiber woven fabric was obtained.

-Comparative Example 6- In Example 6, the sheath yarn was completely dissolved after weaving in the same manner as in Example 6, except that the polyester yarn A was not subjected to weight reduction processing. A long-fiber woven fabric was obtained.

The yarns shown in Table 1 are as follows. "Operon" is a spandex yarn manufactured by Toray DuPont. "Tetron" is a wooly polyester split yarn manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc. "Lumilet" is a normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester yarn manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc. "SOLBRON" is a polyvinyl alcohol fiber yarn manufactured by Nichibi Corporation. “AHY” is a cationic dyeable polyester yarn manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Each yarn was given a numerical value of fineness [d] and the number of filaments (only in the case of multifilaments). SCY is a single covered yarn and AJY is an air entangled yarn.

The properties of the obtained stretchable long-fiber woven fabric were examined and are shown in Table 1. The elasticity was examined by applying a constant load (1 kgf) in the direction of stretching, measuring the length after one hour, and calculating the stretching (%) with respect to the original length. Thinness is measured using a thickness gauge (TECLOC Corporation (TECLOC
K CORPORATION) Ltd.) at an initial load of 7 g / cm ² thick under (mm)
Was measured, and 0.3 mm or less was judged as ultra-thin fabric (◎), and 0.31 to 0.45 mm was judged as thin fabric (○). The feeling is expressed by the handling judgment (1: 1 comparison) for the weight-reduced work cloth of the example, expressing an image from the same or soft feeling and appearance, and discriminating less than the hard touch. JI
It was shown by the slippage amount of the warp yarn (non-stretch yarn) or the weft yarn (non-stretch yarn) under a load of 0.45 kgf by the method A of S L1062.

As shown in Table 1, even when the coated elastic yarn I was completely dissolved, the weight of the polyester yarn A was reduced to give a drape-like feeling to a thinner fabric, and the stretchability by complete dissolution was considerably improved. ing.

In order to show the shape of the polyester yarn A in the stretchable long fiber of Example 1, a cross section of the woven fabric was photographed with an electron microscope (SEM) and shown in FIG.
0 times). As can be seen from the above photograph, the fiber of the polyester yarn originally had a deformed and triangular cross section from the initial stage, but now has an irregular cross section due to weight reduction processing.

Further, in order to see the shape of the fiber of the polyester yarn A of Example 1 from the side, it was similarly photographed and shown in FIG. 2 (1000 times magnification). As can be seen from the above photograph, the fiber of the polyester yarn originally had a shape that smoothly extended in the length direction, but due to the weight reduction after weaving, the fiber showed many irregularities in the length direction. As a result, an appropriate gap is formed in the warp and the weft, and the effect of a bulky and soft touch and a drape feeling is obtained.

〔The invention's effect〕

Since the method for producing a stretchable fiber woven fabric according to the present invention is as described above, various feelings can be easily set to the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric which is thin and has drape properties. . The stretchable long-fiber woven fabric thus manufactured can be used for various products such as one-piece, blouse and the like.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIGS. 1 and 2 are photographs showing the shapes of the fibers, respectively.

Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code FI D06M 101: 32

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. Weaving a coated elastic yarn using a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn and a soluble yarn as a sheath yarn as one of the weft yarn and the warp yarn, and weaving using the polyester yarn A as the other. Dissolves the polyester yarn A
For producing stretchable long-fiber woven fabrics. 2. The polyester fiber A has a weight loss rate of 5 to 30% by weight.
The method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to claim 1. 3. A stretchable long-fiber woven fabric obtained by the production method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a polyurethane elastic yarn, which is a core yarn remaining in a coated elastic yarn in which a sheath yarn is completely dissolved, is a weft yarn. And a warp yarn, and the other is a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric, the other of which is a polyester yarn A whose weight has been reduced after weaving.