JP3467902B2 - Polyester hollow fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric and a method for producing the same.

The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is optimally used for high-grade clothing applications by taking advantage of its characteristics.

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, it has been known that a polyester hollow fiber is lightweight and heat-retaining and has a repulsive texture due to the high rigidity of the hollow fiber.

In recent years, further improvement in texture has been demanded,
There is an increasing demand for a texture that is repulsive and has a dry and refreshing feel.

In response to these demands, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9963/1990
There is a method of imparting a sharp edge to the fiber surface as described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 1-2003, but those characteristics are not sufficiently satisfied. Further, even with the modified hollow fiber having a lumen-shaped hollow portion or recessed portion described in JP-A-56-31035, a dry texture is not satisfied.

Further, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-308214 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-308237 exemplify a hollow fiber using a copolymer having a high alkali solubility as an outer layer. Alkali dissolves in, the surface is smooth, and the sharp edges are too strong,
It is not sufficiently satisfactory because it has a gritty texture, lacks in bulkiness and lacks a swelling texture, and has problems such as poor color development and abrasion resistance (anti-frosting).

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is a dry feeling without a waxy feeling and a smooth refreshing feeling which cannot be achieved by the above-mentioned prior arts or a combination thereof, and has a large repulsive and swelling texture. The present invention provides a polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric having high physical properties such as high color development and abrasion resistance, light weight and heat retention, and a method for producing the same.

[0008]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following constitution. That is, it is a woven or knitted product made of a polyester hollow fiber having a hollow portion with a hollow ratio of 5 to 40% and having an irregular shape, and the hollow fiber is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1 to 10 mol of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an outer layer component. , Groove width 0.0 on the outer surface
5 to 3.0 μm, groove depth 0.1 to 5.0 μm, number of grooves 0.
A polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric, which is a composite hollow fiber having grooves of 0 to 0.3 fibers / μm ² substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis and an inner layer component of which is a polyester homopolymer.

The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following constitution. That is, 5 to 10 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized polyester component in the outer layer and 10 to 70 wt% homopolymer polyester homopolymer in the inner layer of 30 to 90 wt% are combined with a hollow ratio of 3 to 35%. A method for producing a polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric, which comprises weaving a hollow composite fiber, and then subjecting the outer layer of the copolyester to a weight reduction treatment by 10 to 90% and finishing.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

The hollow polyester yarn having a modified cross section which constitutes the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by dissolving and removing the outer layer portion of the inner-outer layer composite fiber. The inner-outer layer composite fiber is hollow in the cross section of the single fiber. Are those that have.

Since the excluded volume is increased by having the hollow portion, a material having a light weight feeling is obtained as compared with the solid fiber (non-hollow fiber), and there is an advantage that the bending rigidity is high. The hollow ratio mentioned here is represented by the cross-sectional area of the hollow portion with respect to the sum of the cross-sectional area of the inner layer portion and the cross-sectional area of the hollow portion in the fiber cross section. The hollowness is preferably measured by enlarging the cross section of the fiber with a scanning microscope (SEM) 1000 to 2000 times.

The hollow section (after melting) of the modified cross-section hollow polyester yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a hollowness of 5% or more and less than 40%, and preferably 15% to 25%. When the hollow ratio exceeds 40%, the feeling of lightness is increased, but the shape retention of the cross section is remarkably deteriorated by the addition of tension after the weaving process, and the hollow portion is likely to be crushed or broken. On the other hand, if it is less than 5%, the weight reduction is insufficient.

The hollow ratio (before melting) of the modified cross-section hollow polyester yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is 3% or more in consideration of the fact that a part of the outer layer is removed after melting.
%, And more preferably 5% to 40%. When the hollow ratio exceeds 40%, the feeling of lightness is increased, but the shape retention of the cross section is remarkably deteriorated by the addition of tension after the weaving process, and the hollow portion is likely to be crushed or broken. On the other hand, if it is less than 5%, the weight reduction is insufficient.

The shape of the hollow portion of the hollow fiber used in the present invention is modified. Circular hollow shape (concentric circle)
In the case of, the bending rigidity (bending moment) cannot be increased, and the texture such as resilience and refreshing feeling cannot be imparted. By adopting a different shape, the bending rigidity (bending moment) can be increased by 1.2 to 1.8 times as compared with a circular shape, and a characteristic texture with a resilience and a refreshing feeling can be obtained. The irregular shape is particularly preferably a quadrangle, a hexagon, a triangle, a pentagon, a cross and the like.

The inner / outer layer composite hollow fiber of the present invention is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1 to 10 mol of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in the outer layer component. This is intended to form fine lateral grooves on the surface by partially dissolving and partially leaving the outer layer component after weaving or knitting to obtain a dry and dry texture, color developability and physical properties.

In this case, if the amount of copolymerization exceeds 10 moles, the dissolution rate becomes too fast and it becomes difficult to leave the copolymerization component. Further, when the copolymerization amount is less than 1 mol, it becomes difficult to form grooves on the surface, and a smooth texture cannot be obtained.
Further, the color developability is deteriorated, which is not preferable. From the viewpoints of texture, color development and dissolution control, polyesters copolymerized with 2 to 7 moles are particularly preferable.

The composite ratio of the components of the outer layer to the entire fiber is a factor that influences the variation of the cross-sectional shape and sharpness after melting, and in order to maximize the effect of the present invention, the outer layer before melting is required. The composite ratio of the components to the whole fiber is 10 to 70 wt%, preferably 20 to 50 wt%. If the composite ratio is less than 10 wt%, the color developability will be low. Further, if the content exceeds 70 wt%, the strength becomes low.

The inner layer component is a homopolymer polyester component, and the composite ratio of the inner layer component to the whole fiber is 30 to 30.
It is 90 wt%, preferably 50 to 80 wt%. This value is 100 in total with the composite ratio of the outer layer components.
It becomes the wt%, and there is a problem similar to the above when it goes out of the range of this composite ratio.

In the present invention, the original yarn (drawn yarn) can sufficiently exhibit its characteristics, but from the viewpoint of the mammow resistance (anti-frosting property) and the texture with a sharp taste, the pretwisted temporary twist It is preferable to use twisted yarn. The number of twists is preferably 200 to 1000 times / m in terms of actual twist.

The term "pretwisted false twisted yarn" as used in the present invention means
A crimped yarn in which a twist in either the S or Z direction partially remains in the yarn bundle is used. For example, after the actual twisting, a wooly process, a temporary twisting process called a burrier process, or It is a taslan-processed or entangled-processed processed yarn, and a woolly processed yarn is particularly preferably applied.

A specific method for producing a pretwisted false-twisted yarn is as follows. The original yarn (drawn yarn) is twisted in the S or Z direction at 200 to 1000 times / m, and then the crimping property is made sufficient to make the mammow resistant. From the viewpoint of improving the property and preventing a jerky texture, a false twist heater temperature of 130 to 180
It is preferable to perform false twisting at a temperature of 1000 ° C. and the false twist number of 1000 to 2000 times / m.

The inner layer component of the hollow fiber in the present invention is a homopolymer polyester. If such materials are not used, there is a problem in strength. That is, the yarn strength of the homopolymer polyester as a single component is 5 to 5.5.
Since it is g / denier and exceeds the yarn strength of the copolyester of the outer layer component of 3 to 3.5 g / denier as a single component, it has a role of reinforcing when the inner layer / outer layer is compounded.

The outer shape of the hollow fiber of the present invention is not specified, and a triangular shape to a hexagonal shape or a circular shape is preferably applied from the viewpoint of texture.

The outer surface of the hollow fiber used in the present invention has a groove width of 0.05 to 3.0 μm, a groove depth of 0.1 to 5.0 μm, and a number of grooves of 0.05 to 0.3 / μm ² . It has grooves substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis. If the groove is out of these ranges, the reflectance of visible light cannot be lowered and the color developability cannot be remarkably enhanced.

Regarding the constituent fineness of the hollow fiber of the present invention, if the total fineness and the single fiber fineness are exemplified, the thin fabric is 50 to 100 denier (single fiber fineness; 0.5 to 2.0 denier) and the thick fabric. Is preferably 150 to 400 denier (single fiber fineness; 1.0 to 5.0 denier).

The structure of the woven or knitted fabric referred to in the present invention is not particularly limited, but for the thin woven fabrics, there are Georgette, Amundsen and Zill, and for the thick woven fabrics, the varied twill, lattice pattern and jacquard. It is preferable because the feature of (3) is easily exhibited. As the knitted fabric, smooth and mock Milano ribs are preferably applied.

The polyester hollow fiber used in the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. 1 to 3.

In FIG. 1, the hollow portion 3 has a square cross section, and the outer layer of the copolymerized polyester 1 remains on the surface of the homopolymer polyester 2 of the inner layer portion. It is characterized by a dry feel, a repulsive texture, high color development and mammo resistance.

FIG. 2 shows an example of polyester having a hexagonal hollow cross section. A refreshing feeling, a fluffy texture,
It features high color development and light weight.

FIG. 3 shows an example of a triangular cross section. Dry feeling,
It is characterized by a refreshing feeling, high color development and silky luster.

As described above, the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention has a dry feeling, a dry and refreshing feeling, a repulsiveness and a swelling texture, and at the same time, a novel woven material having high color development and high physical properties such as mammo resistance. It is a knit.

In order to obtain the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the above-mentioned copolymerized polyester of the outer layer is woven and knitted with a hot alkaline solution after weaving and weaving the above-described composite fiber having a modified hollow portion which is spun with the outer layer component and the inner layer component. Reduce by 10 to 90%. It is particularly preferable to reduce the amount by 40 to 70% from the viewpoint of texture and color developability. If the weight loss is less than 10%, the formation of grooves is insufficient and the texture has few characteristics. If the weight loss is more than 90%, the strength becomes low, which is not preferable.

In the weight reduction treatment, the outer layer of the copolyester is 20 to 200 times faster than the inner layer of the homopolymer polyester, so that the outer layer is selectively reduced in weight. In this case, it is preferable to apply mild weight-reducing conditions as compared with the normal polyester weight-reducing treatment (120 to 130 ° C.) from the aspect of controlling the groove size, groove formation and weight-reducing treatment. Is more preferable. Specifically, the amount of copolymerized polyester is 3
~ 6 mol, outer layer composite ratio 30 to 50%, residual rate 30 to 60
In the example of%, it is exemplified to control with a 0.5 to 1.0% NaOH (solid) solution at 70 to 80 ° C. for 30 to 90 minutes. In addition, in advance with an acidic solution such as maleic acid solution,
The method of performing pretreatment and then alkali treatment is preferably avoided because the weight loss of the copolyester is too fast and it is difficult to leave a part of the outer layer.

The above-mentioned treatment, that is, the inner-outer layer composite fiber having a modified hollow portion is preferably pre-twisted and false-twisted, then woven and knitted, and the outer layer portion of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized polyester is obtained. Without dissolving everything
By making the inner / outer layer composite hollow fibers partially left, a groove width of 0.05 to 3.0 μm and a groove depth of 0.1 on the outer surface of the fiber.
～5.0Myuemu, groove number 0.05-0.3 present / [mu] m ^2, the fiber cross-sectional direction of the groove (lateral grooves) are easily formed, it is a feature of the present invention is maximized. In particular, in addition to the high dyeing property of the copolyester, the reflectance of visible light is further lowered,
The color developability is significantly enhanced. The control of the size of the groove can be appropriately adjusted by the copolymerization amount, the composite ratio, the weight reduction condition and the like.

The relationship between the structure of the present invention and the effect obtained thereby is shown below.

Due to the specific grooves formed on the outer surface of the copolyester, a dry feeling, a refreshing feeling, and a high color forming effect can be obtained.

By leaving a part of the copolyester, high color-developing property and no sharpening of the cross-section edge are obtained, and the mammow resistance is improved.

By partially eluting the copolyester, the porosity of the cloth is increased and a swelling texture is obtained.

The use of the original yarn which is preferably twisted and false-twisted can further add the refreshing feeling and the mammow resistance effect of the twist.

By making the hollow portion irregular and specifying the hollow ratio to be 5 to 40%, the flexural rigidity can be further increased and the repulsive texture can be obtained as compared with the hollow hollow member. It is possible to reduce the weight.

[0042]

EXAMPLES The evaluations in the examples are as follows. [Texture] A. Dry feeling: There is no slimy feeling and no waxy feeling, and the dry texture is good. ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, Δ: Slightly bad, ×: Sensory evaluation in 4 stages. B. Refreshing feeling ... Smoothness is made good, and sensory evaluation is performed in 4 levels, similar to dry feeling. [Puffiness] The thickness (mm) of the woven or knitted fabric is weighted (g / m
^Use the value divided by ² ) as a guide for the feeling of swelling. The larger the value, the higher the dryness and the better. The thickness (mm) is measured using a peacock type thickness meter (manufactured by Ozaki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.). [Coloring property] The lightness of the dyed cloth is represented by L value (%), and the smaller the value, the higher the coloring property and the better. For color measurement, a color difference measuring color device (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.) is used. [Mammo resistance] Two woven and knitted samples having a diameter of 10 cm are sampled, one of them is moistened with distilled water, and attached to the upper part. On the other side, attach the dry one to the lower part, and let the upper and lower parts circulate for 10 minutes while making circular motions. After being left for 4 hours after rubbing, the degree of discoloration and fading of the upper sample piece is visually evaluated in the following 5 grades. Grade 5: No color change and good, Grade 4: Good, Grade 3: Normal, Grade 2: Color change and bad, Grade 1: Significant color change and bad.

[Measurement of Groove Width, Groove Depth, Number of Grooves and Hollow Ratio of Outer Layer] Using a scanning microscope SEM-S2300 (manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.), a fiber cross section (1500 times) and a fiber side surface were obtained. (Surface) (2000 times) is photographed and measured. [Measurement of the number of twists] The number of twists in the false twisted yarn is determined by the above SEM-S.
The side surface of the yarn bundle is observed using 2300, and the number of twists (turns) per 1 m is obtained. [Yarn Strength] The breaking strength (g / denier) of a yarn is expressed in grams per denier. The higher the value, the higher the strength,
Good. The measurement is evaluated using Instron II22 (manufactured by Instron Japan Co., Ltd.). (Examples 1 and 2) The outer layer had a composite ratio of 40 wt% of the polyester component copolymerized with 4.9 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and the inner layer had 6 parts of the polyester homopolymer.
Melt-spun to 0 wt% and to a deformed (deformed square) hollow in which the hollow portion had a cross-sectional hollow ratio of 19.7%. A polyester multifilament composite hollow fiber having a fineness of 170 denier and 48 filaments and a single fiber fineness of 3.5 denier was obtained.

Then, the yarn is actually twisted 300 times / m, and then false twisting temperature: 160 ° C., false twist number 1500 times / m
m was false twisted.

Subsequently, the pretwisted false twisted yarn was made into a double yarn (170D / 2) and used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to weave a thick fabric (lattice pattern).

Then, relax scouring and drying set (180 ° C.) according to a conventional method, caustic soda (solid) 1.0%
The solution was subjected to weight reduction processing at 80 ° C. for 50 minutes (Example 1).

Further, the solution was subjected to weight reduction processing at 80 ° C. for 70 minutes (Example 2).

Then, in each of Examples 1 and 2, a black disperse dye Dianix Black BG-FS (manufactured by Mitsubishi Hoechst Co., Ltd.) was used in accordance with a conventional method at a dyeing density of 14% owf to give 130.
The product was dyed and finished at 60 ° C. for 60 minutes. The finish results are shown in Table 1.

In Example 1, the copolymerized polyester was selectively weight-reduced, and the weight loss rate was 24.2% (residual rate of the copolymerized polyester: 39.5%).

Similarly in Example 2, the weight loss rate was 32.8% (residual rate of the copolyester: 18.0%).

The groove width of the surface of Examples 1 and 2
The number of grooves, the depth of the grooves, and the shape of the grooves are also shown in Table 1. In addition, a cross-sectional photograph of the fiber of Example 1 (magnification: 1500 times) is shown in FIG. 4, a side photograph (magnification: 2000 times) is shown in FIG. 5, and a cross-sectional photograph of the fiber of Example 2 (magnification: 1500 times) is shown in FIG. (Magnification 2
000 times) are shown in FIG. 7, respectively.

[0052]

[Table 1] As is clear from Table 1, in both Example 1 and Example 2, a black thick fabric having a fine lateral groove on the fiber surface, a dry feeling without a waxy feeling, a smooth refreshing feeling, and a wonderful texture full of swelling feeling was obtained. Was obtained. Further, the black color development, the mammo resistance and the yarn strength were also very good.

The constituent yarns of the woven fabric have a twist number of 297 times / m.
It was a pretwisted false-twisted processed yarn with a twist. Further, there were no problems such as false twisting and weight reduction processing, and the product could be manufactured efficiently. (Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2) Comparative Example 1 is an example finished according to Example 1 except that weight reduction processing is not applied. In Comparative Example 2, the compounding copolyester is added at a weight loss temperature of 8
This is an example finished according to Examples 1 and 2 except that the treatment was performed at 0 ° C. for a reduction time of 110 minutes to completely elute (reduction rate: 40.0%). The evaluation results are shown in Table 1 for both Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2. Further, a photograph of the cross section of the fiber of Comparative Example 1 (magnification: 1500 times) is shown in FIG. 8, a photograph of the side surface (magnification: 2000 times) is shown in FIG. 9, and a photograph of the cross section of fiber of Comparative Example 2 (magnification: 1500 times) is shown in FIG. Photographs (magnification: 2000) are shown in FIG. 11, respectively.

As described above, Comparative Example 1 was poor in dry feeling and refreshing feeling, and had a mediocre texture. In Comparative Example 2, there was a problem in the insufficient color development and the mammo resistance. (Example 3) Example 1 was repeated except that the hollow portion was a hexagonal hollow portion, the outer layer had a composite ratio of 25% by weight of the copolyester, and a fineness of 85 denier and a 24-filament composite hollow fiber. Melt spinning was carried out according to Then
A final twist was carried out at 600 times / m, a false twist was carried out at a false twist number of 1700 times / m, and a weight reduction process was carried out in accordance with Example 1 except that it was woven into a satin Georgette crepe, and dyeing and finishing were carried out.

The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

[0056]

[Table 2] As shown in Table 2, a black satin-finished Georgette crepe fabric having a dry, refreshing and swelling characteristic texture was obtained. It was of high quality with no problem in color development and mammo resistance. In addition, the fiber surface had fine transverse grooves, and the yarn bundle had a twist of 602 turns / m, and was composed of a pretwisted false twisted yarn.

In addition, there was no processing trouble throughout the entire process, and the product could be manufactured smoothly. The fiber cross section obtained was similar to that of FIG. (Comparative Example 3) Dyeing according to Example 2 except that the copolymerized polyester in the outer layer of the composite yarn was completely reduced and dissolved.
Finished The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2.

In Comparative Example 3, the dry feeling and the refreshing feeling were lacking, the coloring property was low, and the mammow resistance was also a problem.

[0059]

The effects of the present invention are as follows, and it is possible to provide a high quality woven or knitted material and a method for efficiently producing the same. (1) A dry feeling without a waxy feeling, a smooth refreshing feeling, excellent resilience, and a swelling texture. (2) A hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric with high color development can be obtained. (3) Excellent mammow resistance can be imparted. (4) Light weight. (5) The alkali weight can be easily reduced without the need for acid treatment. (6) It is possible to easily perform the pre-twisting false twisting process, the weight reducing process, etc., and efficiently process.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a fiber cross section showing an example of a square hollow fiber used in a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a fiber cross section showing an example of a hexagonal hollow fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a fiber cross-sectional view showing an example of a triangular hollow fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a photograph showing an example of a fiber cross section used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a photograph showing an example of a fiber side surface used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a photograph showing an example of a fiber cross section used for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a photograph showing an example of a fiber side surface used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 8 is a photograph showing an example of a cross section of a conventional fiber (before weight loss).

FIG. 9 is a photograph showing an example of a side surface of a conventional fiber (before weight loss).

FIG. 10 is a photograph showing an example of a cross section of a conventional fiber (after weight reduction).

FIG. 11 is a photograph showing an example of a side surface of a conventional fiber (after weight reduction).

[Explanation of symbols]

1: Copolyester of outer layer component 2: Inner layer component homopolymer polyester 3: Hollow part

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI D03D 15/00 D03D 15/00 B // D06M 101: 32 D06M 101: 32 (56) Reference JP-A-3-124807 (JP , A) JP 3-113070 (JP, A) JP 6-272123 (JP, A) JP 6-341056 (JP, A) JP 57-11232 (JP, A) JP 6-235168 (JP, A) (58) Fields surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06M 11/38 D01F 6/62 D01F 6/84 D01F 8/14 D02G 1/02 D03D 15/00 D06M 101 : 32

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven or knitted product made of a polyester hollow fiber having a hollow portion having a hollowness of 5 to 40% and having an irregular shape, wherein the hollow fiber has an outer layer component of 1 to 1 of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid.
It is 0 mol copolymerized polyester and has a groove width of 0.05 to 3.0 μm, a groove depth of 0.1 to 5.0 μm, and a fiber shaft of 0.05 to 0.3 grooves / μm ^{2 on} the outer surface. A polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric, which is a composite hollow fiber having substantially orthogonal grooves and an inner layer component made of a polyester homopolymer. 2. The pretwisted false twisted yarn having a real twist of 200 to 1000 turns / m.
The polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric according to the item. 3. 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid
10 mol% of the polyester component copolymerized in the outer layer 10
70% by weight, homopolymer Polyester After weaving and weaving modified hollow composite fibers with a hollow ratio of 3 to 35% in which an inner layer is composed of 30 to 90% by weight, the outer layer copolymer polyester is reduced by 10 to 90% and finished. A method for producing a polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric. 4. A modified hollow composite fiber having 200 to 1000 times /
4. The polyester hollow fiber woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein a true twist of m is applied, false twisting is performed at a false twisting temperature of 130 to 180 ° C. and a false twist number of 1000 to 2000 times / m, and then knitting or weaving is performed. Manufacturing method.