JP2634473B2 - Clothes for clothing that withstands industrial washing - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a woven fabric for clothes that can withstand industrial laundering.

[Prior Art] Work clothes have been typically used as clothes requiring industrial washing. Work clothes need to be washed under harsh conditions to remove strong dirt. In addition, work clothes are often used as uniforms,
A recent trend is that fashionable elements are required for work clothes, especially for office uniforms. In such fashionable uniforms, it is required that the clothes after washing do not collapse. That is, the shape retention of clothes after washing is, of course, such that the clothes do not shrink and the shape does not deform, but it is required that the clothes can be used without ironing after industrial washing. ing. In making clothes that can be used without an iron press after industrial washing, it is necessary that puckering does not occur in the clothes after washing, but the cause of puckering is a problem in the sewing process. Another problem is the fabric used for clothing. Various woven fabrics and knitted fabrics have been used for cloths used for clothing, but woven fabrics made of polyester fibers have good handling properties such as quick drying when washed and less wrinkling. It is often used in quantitative terms. However, even a woven fabric using polyester fibers does not satisfy the above-mentioned problem, that is, the required characteristics that allow the use of clothes without ironing after industrial washing.

In particular, in the case of using a crimped paper of polyester, crimping is used to obtain the bulkiness of the yarn, however, the dimensional stability of the woven fabric is poor, and thus the above-mentioned requirements are satisfied. Has many problems.

[Object of the Invention] The present invention solves such conventional problems, and after washing,
In particular, it is to propose a woven fabric necessary for making garments that can be used without using a press after industrial washing, and to satisfy these demands and to provide an excellent texture so as not to lower the sense of fashion. An object of the present invention is to propose a woven fabric for clothes that can withstand industrial laundering.

[Constitution of the Invention] The present invention relates to a woven fabric obtained by weaving a plain weave or twill weave or a change fabric thereof using a polyester crimped yarn as one of a warp and a weft, or one of them. By performing the presetting step of the conditions, and the warp forced supply heat setting step, the elongation rate of the woven fabric, the warp and weft direction elongation recovery efficiency, and the characteristic value of the shrinkage rate at 90 ° C. of wet heat of the woven fabric are represented by Clothes for clothing that withstands industrial washing, characterized by satisfying everything.

25 ≦ transverse elongation rate + weft elongation rate ≦ 30 (1) warp elongation recovery efficiency ≧ 53 (2) weft elongation recovery efficiency ≧ 64 (3) 2.0 ≧ transverse shrinkage rate−weft shrinkage rate ≧ 0.5 (4) The longitudinal shrinkage rate + the latitudinal shrinkage rate ≦ 3.0 (5). The woven fabric of the present invention uses a polyester crimped yarn for warp and / or weft. The polyester crimped yarn used in the present invention has a total denier of 50 to 300 de,
As the single yarn denier, one having a range of 0.5 to 3.5 de is used, and a conventionally known yarn can be used.

The polyester crimped yarn is obtained by performing false twisting, but at the stage of the raw yarn to be woven, its total crimp ratio TC
Is preferably in the range of 18 to 30%.

In addition, the polyester crimped yarn has a twist to be given in the false twist crimping process with a twist coefficient of 0.7 ≦
It is used in the range of K ≦ 1.1, preferably 0.9 ≦ K ≦
The ones in the range of 1.1 are used. Where K is T: The number of twists per meter, D: The total denier of the yarn.

Such a polyester crimped yarn can be interwoven with other yarns if necessary. As the other yarns, spun yarns and the like can also be used. In particular, polyester fibers and natural yarns such as cotton and wool can be used. A blend with fiber can be used. However, the mixing ratio should be within a range not to lose the characteristics of the polyester crimped yarn.

Next, the woven fabric of the present invention is woven by a plain weave or a twill weave, or its modified structure. Therefore,
Includes scallops and various twill structures.

In the woven fabric, the balance between the density of the warp and the density of the weft is preferably such that the ratio is in the range of 1.30 ≧ warp density / weft density ≧ 1.10.

Next, the elongation ratio, shrinkage ratio, and elongation recovery efficiency in the present invention are measured by the following methods.

Elongation rate of woven fabric 5.5cm x 20cm test pieces were taken in the warp and weft directions, and approximately the same number of yarns were removed from both sides of the test piece to obtain an effective width of 5cm. Mark. Using a tensile testing machine with an automatic recording device, apply an initial load of 20 g, grip the test piece so that the grip interval is 10 cm, stretch it to a constant load of 1.5 kg at a tensile weave of 30 cm / min, and immediately increase the speed at the same speed. Then, let the automatic recording device draw a load-elongation curve as shown in Fig. 1 and apply a constant load of 1.5 kg.
The OB corresponding to is read and the elongation rate (%) is obtained.

Elongation recovery efficiency In the load-elongation curve of FIG. 1 drawn in the measurement of the elongation rate of the woven fabric, the elongation recovery efficiency (%) is obtained by the following equation. (However, point E is the middle point of OB) Elongation recovery efficiency (%) = (DE / CE) × 100 Shrinkage ratio of woven fabric at 90 ° C. in wet heat This is performed by using a temperature of 90 ° C. Do not iron.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is necessary that the characteristic value obtained by such a measuring method is in the range of the expressions (1) to (5).

In the present invention, the characteristics represented by the formulas (1), (2), and (3) indicate that the crimp of the crimped yarn in the woven fabric is maintained, and the woven fabric does not lose bulkiness. is there. (The elasticity due to the holding of the crimp was measured and used as a substitute property for holding the crimp.) Further, the characteristics represented by the expressions (4) and (5) not only indicate that the wet heat shrinkage is low, but also that the relationship between the wet heat shrinkage in the meridional direction and the wet heat shrinkage in the weft direction is within a certain range. Is shown.

In the equation (1), (longitudinal extension rate + longitudinal extension rate)
If it exceeds 30, the woven fabric becomes a stretchable woven fabric and has the advantage of improving the workability comfort when wearing clothes, but on the other hand, lacks dimensional stability and the wet heat shrinkage of the woven fabric is (5) In many cases, one that satisfies the equation cannot be obtained. In equation (1), (longitudinal extension rate + longitudinal extension rate) is
If it is less than 25, the texture of the fabric becomes poor, the surface touch and resilience cannot be satisfactory, the fabric becomes paper-like, and the effect of using a polyester crimped yarn is obtained. And the woven fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, when the elongation recovery efficiency (%) does not satisfy the expressions (2) and (3), the morphological stability of the garment is poor, and the garment that can be used without using a press after industrial washing is used. You can't get it.

Those having a wet heat shrinkage ratio satisfying the formulas (4) and (5) can be obtained by strongly performing a heat fixing treatment in a finishing process of the woven fabric. However, simple heat fixing treatment is not preferable because the properties of the crimped yarn constituting the woven fabric, particularly the bulkiness, are reduced. The decrease in the bulkiness of the crimped yarn impairs the features of the crimped yarn, makes it closer to a filament woven fabric than a crimped yarn woven fabric, does not satisfy formula (1), and degrades the feeling of the woven fabric. Because it is what makes them. The woven fabric of the present invention having an elongation rate satisfying (1) (that is, without impairing the feeling of the woven fabric) and having a wet heat shrinkage rate satisfying the formulas (4) and (5) can be subjected to the heat fixing treatment. Regardless, the reduction in the sublimeness of the crimped yarn is reduced, and such a woven fabric also satisfies the formulas (2) and (3) at the same time in the elongation recovery efficiency.

In the present invention, it is difficult to obtain a woven fabric that simultaneously satisfies the above-mentioned characteristic values (1) to (5) by a normal finishing process.

That is, the fabric is subjected to the steps of scouring / relaxation / drying-preset-dyeing-drying-resin processing-drying / heat setting-radial forced supply heat setting. However, some of these steps may sometimes be omitted. In the finishing step, particularly important steps are a presetting step and a heat setting step for forcibly supplying heat in the longitudinal direction. In the presetting step, the distortion caused by the tension fluctuation applied in the previous steps such as spinning, drawing, crimping and weaving of the polyester yarn constituting the woven fabric is removed, and the polyester fibers constituting the woven fabric are uniformly crystallized. It is performed so as to have a degree and an orientation. For this purpose, the supply rate of the woven fabric (over hood) is set to an appropriate level, for example, in the range of 0 to 7%, and in particular, the over hood is not negative. It is important to Further, the preset step is a kind of heat treatment step, and the temperature is preferably a high temperature exceeding 180 ° C., and more preferably a temperature range of 190 to 195 ° C.

Next, the heat-setting process for forcibly supplying heat includes rotating the roller at a speed higher than the linear velocity of the belt on the concave side when the fabric is transported with the roller pressed against the rotating roller and the roller. In this manner, the fabric sandwiched between the belt and the roller is forcibly overhooded and supplied. The range of the overfeed rate is 0.5 to 8%.
Further, it is important to heat the roller so that the temperature of the fabric is in the range of 100 to 130 ° C. when the fabric is transported between the roller pressing belt and the roller.

Further, in each of the finishing steps, it is preferable to reduce the longitudinal tension of the fabric as much as possible.

[Operation of the Invention] Since the woven fabric of the present invention has the above-described configuration,
It solves the problems of conventional processed yarn fabrics, and provides a fabric necessary for making clothes that can be used after washing, particularly after industrial washing without using an iron press. Thus, a woven fabric for clothing that has an excellent feel and does not deteriorate the sense of fashion and that can withstand industrial washing can be obtained.

In the present invention, the heat treatment temperature in the preset step is higher than a normal condition, and a strong heat setting treatment is performed to reduce wet heat shrinkage of the fabric. However, in the usual process, such a strong heat setting treatment is not performed because it reduces the bulkiness of the crimped yarn and impairs the feeling of the woven fabric. That is, the strong heat-setting treatment causes the crimped yarn constituting the woven fabric to be crimped, the bulkiness to be impaired, and the surface of the woven fabric to easily become coarse and hard. Therefore, the woven fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained simply by performing the preset process at a high temperature in order to lower the heat shrinkage of the woven fabric. In the present invention, in order to solve this problem, the presetting step is performed under overfeed conditions, and while maintaining the crimped form in the woven fabric as much as possible, the bulky woven structure is heat-fixed firmly by high-temperature treatment. Things. However, in the process under such overfeed, it is difficult to prevent the generation of wrinkles or the generation of wrinkles, which is the original purpose of the preset process. In the present invention, in order to solve this problem, the above-described crimped yarn is used. In particular, the crimped yarn of the present invention uses a twist coefficient used in the crimping process in the range of 0.7 ≦ K ≦ 1.1, and the total crimp ratio TC of the obtained crimped yarn is 18%. By using a material within the range of ~ 30%, the crimping occurs when the above conditions are given in the pre-setting step, and thereby the width of the woven fabric is sufficiently increased to prevent the generation of wrinkles and grains. I do.

Further, in the finishing step of the present invention, the effect of the present invention can be obtained by performing the above-described forcible forced supply heat setting step in combination with the preset step. That is, if the longitudinal forced supply heat setting step is not performed even if the presetting step is performed, it is difficult to obtain a fabric satisfying the expressions (4) and (5). Furthermore, it is important that the process of the forced forced heat supply in the longitudinal direction is substantially performed as a final process, and if this process is performed in the middle of the finishing process, the effect is small. It is finished by a process that does not come with a step of pulling in the warp direction (so-called warping) later. If the process of the forced supply heat setting in the warp direction is not substantially the final process, the warp in the finishing process will cause new shrinkage of the fabric, and the wet heat Since the balance of the shrinkage ratio is lost, it becomes difficult to satisfy the above expressions (4) and (5), and the woven fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained. As described above, the woven fabric of the present invention satisfies the expressions (4) and (5), and this works as follows. That is, the garment is usually created by suturing various parts in combination (that is, the parts in the warp and weft directions are arbitrarily combined). As for the woven fabric of the present invention, the relationship between the wet heat shrinkage in the warp direction and the weft direction satisfies the formulas (4) and (5) indicates that the sewn portion of the garment is slightly shifted by industrial washing performed under severe conditions. Therefore, it does not cause the shape collapse due to the deformation, and does not generate the distortion that causes puckering at the sewn portion.

The present invention has achieved the object of the present invention by providing a woven fabric which satisfies the expressions (1) to (5).

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples.

[Example 1] A polyester multifilament yarn having a single filament denier of 3.0 de is subjected to false twisting by a standard method to form a crimped yarn having a total denier of 150 de. The crimped yarn has a total denier of 2,400 T / M. The twisted yarn was used for warp and weft paper to fabricate a woven fabric having a warp density of 28 yarns / cm and a weft density of 24 yarns / cm with a 2/2 twill structure. The woven fabric was subjected to a finishing process by passing through each process of scouring / relaxing, presetting, drying, dyeing, drying, antistatic treatment, and meridional forced supply set. At this time, 5%
And the set temperature was as high as 195 ° C.

Further, the heat treatment was finally performed under the condition that the overfeed was 5% in the longitudinal forced supply setting step and the temperature was 110 ° C. The obtained woven fabric had relatively low elongation, and a woven fabric having an excellent texture was obtained. Table 1 shows the evaluation results.

For comparison, using the same woven fabric as used in the examples, passing through each of the steps of scouring relaxation, drying, presetting, dyeing, drying, and antistatic processing according to the usual process (the process of setting in the longitudinal direction is not employed). Finish processing was performed. At this time, the preset process uses 180 ° C. which is usually adopted as a temperature condition, and reduces overfeed to minus (−) 3.
% (Comparative Example 1).

The obtained woven fabric had a large shrinkage and a bad feeling.

Further, as another comparative example, the same woven fabric as that used in the examples was used, and the woven fabric was subjected to finishing, relaxing, presetting, dyeing, drying, and antistatic processing. In this comparative example, the process of the longitudinal forced supply set is not used. At this time, as the conditions of the presetting step, as in the example, the fabric supply amount was set to 5% overfeed, and the setting temperature was set to a high temperature of 195 ° C. (Comparative Example 2).

The obtained woven fabric had a high shrinkage and a bad texture.

In addition, using the woven fabric of the example and the woven fabric of the comparative example obtained in this way, and other interlining, spinning, and the like, using the highest quality that does not cause puckering to prepare working clothes, Washing was performed under the conditions of washing for use, and the degree of puckering and wrinkling were determined.

As for the conditions of industrial washing, a large washing machine of 10 kg type was used for the washing machine, the temperature of the washing liquid was 60 ° C, and the washing time was 30 minutes.
Using 3 g / L of Genbu Complex Detergent and 3 g / L of Sodium Metasilicate as Detergent, Rinse Time 3 min x 3 times, Use 16 kg Large Dryer (Sanyo SCD-3160S) as Dryer, Inlet Temperature: 120 ° C, outlet temperature: 90 ° C, drying time: 30 minutes.

 Table 1 shows the results.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a load-elongation curve when elongating at a constant load of 1.5 kg and then immediately returning at the same speed after elongating at a constant load of 1.5 kg for explaining the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate of the woven fabric used in the present invention. It is.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Katsuaki Shirasu 270-1 Yanagibashi-cho, Mitsuke-shi, Niigata Pref. Inside (72) Inventor Sokichi Sakai 1-3-1 Tsukimidai, Mitsuke-shi, Niigata Pref. (72) Inventor Akio Saito 1-6-7 Minamihonmachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Teijin Limited (56) References JP-A-59-179845 (JP, A) JP-A-57-176234 JP-A-48-1365 (JP, A) JP-A-58-180670 (JP, A) JP-A-54-64171 (JP, A) JP-A-48-10350 (JP, A) 1979-39761 (JP, A)

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] Claims: 1. A woven texture of plain weave or twill weave using a polyester crimped paper having a total crimp ratio TC in the range of 18 to 30% for warp and / or weft.
Or, the fabric is woven by its changing structure, and the fabric is subjected to a presetting process at 180 ° C. after a scouring / relaxation / drying process.
, And an overfeed rate of 0 to 7%, and then a heat-setting process in the longitudinal direction is performed under the condition that the fabric temperature is in the range of 100 to 130 ° C. A garment fabric for industrial laundering, characterized in that the characteristic values of the elongation percentage, the elongation recovery efficiency in the warp and weft directions of the woven fabric, and the shrinkage ratio at 90 ° C. of wet heat of the woven fabric satisfy all of the following expressions. 25 ≦ transverse elongation rate + weft elongation rate ≦ 30 (1) warp elongation recovery efficiency ≧ 53 (2) weft elongation recovery efficiency ≧ 64 (3) 2.0 ≧ transverse shrinkage rate−weft shrinkage rate ≧ 0.5… (4) Warp shrinkage + weft shrinkage ≦ 3.0… (5)