JPH03234843A - Woven fabric for cloth capable of enduring industrial washing - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a woven fabric for clothes capable of enduring industrial washing by each specifying values of stretching ratio, stretching recovery and shrinkage by heat and humidity within specific ranges using a polyester crimped yarn as either one of warp and weft. CONSTITUTION:Yarns are woven into plain fabric, twill fabric or a fabric having changed structure thereof by using a polyester-crimped yarn as warp and weft or either one thereof. Then the resultant fabric is subjected to heat treatment at >=180 deg.C, preferably at 190-195 deg.C as a preset in the finishing process under a proper over feed in order to remove strain given by change of tension from the previous process and simultaneously subjected to an enforced feed heat setting in warp direction in the final process to provide the fabric for cloths being 25-30 in stretching ratio in warp direction + stretching ratio in weft direction, >=53 in stretching recovery in warp direction, >=64 in stretching recovery in weft direction, 0.5-2.0 in shrinkage in warp direction - shrinkage in weft direction and <=3.0 in shrinkage in warp direction + shrinkage in weft direction.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] [Industrial application field] The present invention relates to garment fabrics that withstand industrial laundering.

[Prior Art] Work clothes are a typical type of clothing that has conventionally required industrial washing. Work clothes had to be washed under harsh conditions to remove strong stains. Furthermore, work clothes are generally often used as uniforms, and the recent trend is for work clothes to have fashionable elements, and this trend is particularly strong in office uniforms. Such fashionable uniforms are required to maintain their appearance even after washing. In other words, it goes without saying that the shape retention of clothes after washing is such that the clothes do not shrink or deform, but it is also required to have a level that allows the clothes to be used without using an industrial laundry iron press. There is. In order to create clothes that can be used without the need for industrial laundry irony presses, it is necessary that the clothes do not pucker after washing, but puckering can occur due to problems in the sewing process as well as other factors. There is a problem with the cow material used for clothing. Various woven and knitted fabrics have traditionally been used for clothing, but woven fabrics made from polyester fibers are particularly easy to handle, as they dry quickly when washed and are resistant to wrinkles. It is used in large quantities. However, even woven fabrics using polyester fibers do not meet the above-mentioned problem, that is, the required characteristics that allow clothing to be used without iron pressing after industrial washing.

In particular, those using crimped polyester yarn,
Although crimp is used to obtain bulkiness of the yarn, this results in poor dimensional stability of the fabric, and there are many problems in meeting the above requirements.

[Objective of the Invention] The present invention solves these conventional problems and proposes a fabric necessary for making clothes that can be used after washing, especially after industrial washing, without using a press. The object of the present invention is to provide a clothing fabric that satisfies these requirements, has an excellent texture, and can withstand industrial washing without impairing the fashion sense.

[Structure of the Invention] The present invention uses polyester crimped yarn for the warp and/or weft, and the weaving structure is plain weave,
Or, in a fabric woven with a twill weave or a modified structure thereof, the characteristic values of the elongation rate of the fabric, the elongation recovery efficiency in the warp direction and the weft direction, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric at 90° C. under moist heat satisfy all of the following formulas. A clothing fabric that can withstand industrial washing.

25≦longitudinal elongation rate + latitudinal elongation rate≦30...
(1) Longitudinal elongation recovery efficiency ≧53 ・
...(2) Latitudinal elongation recovery efficiency ≧64
...(3) 2.0≧Longitudinal shrinkage rate - Latitude shrinkage rate≧
0.5...(4) Longitudinal contraction rate + Latitude contraction rate≦3.
0...It is in (5).

The woven fabric of the present invention uses polyester crimped yarn for the warp and/or the weft. The polyester crimped yarn used in the present invention has a total denier in the range of 50 to 300 de, and a single yarn denier in the range of 0.5 to 3.5 dθ. As the thread itself, conventionally known threads can be used.

The polyester crimped yarn is obtained by false twisting, but at the stage of making it into a fabric, its total crimp rate T, C
is preferably in the range of 18 to 30%.

In addition, when twisting the polyester crimped yarn, in order to prevent wrinkles from occurring during the textile finishing process, a low twist is used, and 0.7≦≦1
．． 1, preferably 0.9≦≦
1.1 is used. However, K is K-T
X JTi/32500, T: Number of twists per meter, D: Determined by yarn torque denier.

Such crimped polyester yarn can be mixed and woven with other yarns as necessary, but spun yarns can also be used as the other yarns, and in particular, polyester fibers and natural fibers such as cotton and wool can be used. It is possible to use a blend with fibers.

Next, the fabric of the present invention can be plain weave, twill weave, or
It is woven by its changing tissue. Therefore, it includes diagonal weave and various twill structures.

In addition, in the woven fabric, the balance between warp density and weft density is such that the ratio is 1.30≧warp density/weft density≧1.1
Preferably, it is in the range of 0.

Furthermore, the elongation rate, shrinkage rate, and elongation recovery efficiency in the present invention are measured by the following methods.

A 5.5 cm x 20 cm fabric elongation test piece was taken in the warp and weft directions, and approximately the same number of threads were removed from both sides of the test piece to give an effective width of 5 cm. Mark the spot exactly. Using a tensile testing machine with an automatic recording device, an initial load of 20 g was applied, the specimen was gripped with a gripping interval of 10 cm, and the specimen was stretched at a tensile speed of Hcm/min to a constant load of 1.5 kg. Immediately return the sample at the same speed, write a load-elongation curve as shown in Figure 1 using an automatic recording device, read the OB corresponding to a constant load of 1.5 kg, and determine the elongation rate (%).

Elongation Recovery Efficiency In the load-elongation curve shown in FIG. 1 drawn in the measurement of the fabric elongation rate, the elongation recovery efficiency (%) is determined by the following formula.

(However, point E is the midpoint of OB) Elongation recovery efficiency (%
) - (DB/CB) Do not iron.

It is necessary for the woven fabric of the present invention that the characteristic values obtained by such a measuring method be in the range of (1) to (5). In other words, when the elongation rate of the fabric exceeds the range (1), it has the advantage of improving workability when wearing clothes, but on the other hand, it lacks dimensional stability and the wet heat shrinkage rate of the fabric increases ( 5)
Not only is it difficult to obtain a material that satisfies the above, but it is also difficult to obtain a product that is satisfactory in terms of texture, surface touch, and repellency.

In addition, if the elongation recovery efficiency (%) does not satisfy (2) and (3), the shape retention of the garment is poor, and the garment can be used without using a press after industrial washing. I can't do that. In addition, the wet heat shrinkage rate (4) (5
) and the elongation rate (1) of the woven fabric is within the range of the present invention, which can be obtained by strongly performing heat setting treatment in the finishing process of the woven fabric.

However, such a simple ignition fixing treatment is not preferable because it reduces the properties, especially the bulkiness, of the crimped yarn constituting the fabric. This is because the decrease in the bulkiness of the crimped yarn deteriorates the texture of the fabric. Therefore, in the present invention, the elongation recovery efficiency (%) needs to satisfy (2) and (3).

In the present invention, it is difficult to obtain a fabric that satisfies the above characteristic values (1) to (5) at the same time by a normal finishing process, so it is preferable to manufacture the fabric by the following method.

That is, the fabric is subjected to the following steps: scouring/relaxation - drying preset - dyeing - drying - resin processing - drying/heat setting - warp forced supply heat setting, but some of these steps may be omitted. There is. In the finishing process, especially in the presetting process, distortions due to tension fluctuations imparted in previous processes such as spinning, drawing, crimping, and weaving of the polyester yarn constituting the fabric are removed, and the polyester yarn constituting the fabric is removed. It is necessary to ensure that the fibers have uniform crystallinity and orientation, and for this purpose, the feed rate (overhood) of the fabric should be set at an appropriate level, for example, in the range of 0 to 7%, and in particular, the It is important to avoid becoming an overfood. Further, the presetting process is a kind of heat treatment process, and the temperature is preferably 180°C or higher, which is higher than usual, and more preferably 190°C to 180°C.
It is to be carried out in a temperature range of 95°C. In addition, in the finishing process of the present invention, it is important to perform the warp forced heat setting process as the last process, and even if the warp forced heat setting process is performed in the middle of the finishing process, it will not be effective. If the step of pulling in the warp direction (so-called stretching) comes after the forced warp supply heat setting step, it is difficult to satisfy the above formula (4), and the effects of the present invention cannot be obtained. .

In the warp direction forced heat setting process, when the fabric is transferred between a rotating belt that presses the rollers and the fabrics are sandwiched between the rollers,
By rotating the roller at a higher linear speed than the linear speed of the belt on the concave side, the fabric sandwiched between the belt and the roller is forcibly overhooded and fed. The overfeed rate used is in the range of 0.5 to 8%. moreover,
It is important to heat the rollers so that the temperature of the fabric is in the range of 100 to 130° C. when the fabric is sandwiched between the roller pressure belt and the roller and transferred.

Furthermore, in each step of the finishing step, it is preferable to lower the tension in the warp direction of the fabric as much as possible.

[Operation of the invention] Since the woven fabric of the present invention has the above-described configuration, it solves the problems that conventional textured yarn woven fabrics had, and after washing,
In particular, industrial laundry that can obtain the fabric necessary for creating usable clothing without using a press after industrial washing, and that has an excellent texture so as not to reduce the fashion sense while satisfying these requirements. It was possible to obtain a fabric for clothing that can withstand 0.

The woven fabric of the present invention is constructed using crimped polyester yarn, and when such a woven fabric is preset at a high temperature as described above, a shrinkage ratio that satisfies equation (5) can be obtained. Instead, the texture of the fabric is impaired. In particular, the surface of the fabric tends to become rough and hard, and the bulkiness is also impaired.

Therefore, the fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained simply by presetting at a high temperature in order to lower the thermal shrinkage rate of the fabric.

In the present invention, since the fabric satisfies the above-mentioned formulas (1) to (5), it is of course possible to remove distortions received during the process of completing the fabric, but also The elongation recovery efficiency in the direction satisfies equations (2) and (3), and the residual strain accompanying the expansion and contraction of the fabric can be reduced, contributing to improved dimensional stability.

The present invention will be explained below using examples.

[Example 1 cofilament single yarn denier is 3. A polyester multifilament yarn of Ode was subjected to a pre-false twisting process according to a standard method, resulting in a crimped yarn with a 1-tal denier of 150 de, and the crimped yarn was twisted at a rate of 2,400 T/H. is used for the warp and weft, the fabric structure is 2/
A fabric with a warp density of 28 threads/cm and a weft density of 24 threads/cm was woven using the twill structure of No. 2. The fabric is refined and
Finishing was carried out through the following steps: relaxing, presetting, drying, dyeing, drying, antistatic processing, and forced warp feeding set. At this time, the amount of fabric supplied in the presetting step was set to 5% overfeed, and the setting temperature was set at a high temperature of 195°C.

Further, the overfeed in the longitudinal forced feeding setting step was 5%, and the final heat treatment was performed at a temperature of 110°C. The obtained woven fabric had relatively little elongation and had an excellent texture. Evaluation results first
Shown in the table.

For comparison, the same fabric as used in the example was used and finished through the following steps: scouring and relaxing, drying, presetting, dyeing, drying, and antistatic processing.

At this time, the temperature of the preset process is usually adopted as 2. A temperature of 180°C was used.

The resulting woven fabric had a high shrinkage rate and an unfavorable feel.

In addition, work clothes were made using the fabric of the example and the fabric of the comparative example obtained in this way, and the interlining, sewing thread, etc. were of the highest quality that would not cause puckering. The clothes were washed under regular washing conditions and the degree of puckering and wrinkles was determined.

The conditions for industrial laundry were to use a large 10 kg type washing machine, the temperature of the washing liquid was 260°C, the washing time was 30 minutes, and the detergent was Genbu complex detergent: 3 g/L and sodium metasilicate. : Use 3 g/L, rinse time 3 minutes x 3 times, use a 16 kg large dryer (
Using Sanyo 5CD-316O3), inlet temperature: 1
The conditions are 20°C, outlet temperature: 90°C, and drying time: 30 minutes.

The results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 3 In Table 1, ◎ indicates that the evaluation result is very good, O indicates that the evaluation result is good, △ indicates that the evaluation result is somewhat poor, × indicates that the evaluation result is poor.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 shows the load-elongation curve when the fabric used in the present invention is stretched with a constant load of 1.5 kg and then returned at the same speed to explain the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate. FIG.

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) In a woven fabric that uses polyester crimped yarn for the warp and/or weft, and has a plain weave, twill weave, or a variation thereof, the elongation rate and warp of the woven fabric A clothing fabric that can withstand industrial washing, characterized in that the characteristic values of direction and weft direction elongation recovery efficiency and shrinkage rate of the fabric at 90° C. under wet heat satisfy all of the following formulas. 25≦longitudinal elongation rate + latitudinal elongation rate≦30...(1) Longitudinal elongation recovery efficiency≧53...(2) Latitude direction elongation recovery efficiency≧64...(3) 2.0≧longitudinal shrinkage rate−latitudinal shrinkage rate≧0.5...(
4) Longitudinal contraction rate + latitudinal contraction rate≦3.0...(5)