KR100432384B1 - Manufacturing method of textile having stretch in warp and weft directions simultaneously - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A manufacturing method of textile which is characterized by having at least 20% of stretch in warp and weft directions simultaneously, 25-30% of elasticity, excellent texture, at least 35% of shrinkage and under 5% of residual shrinkage after elongation, and a production cost is reduced. CONSTITUTION: Textile having stretch in warp and weft directions simultaneously is obtained by the steps of: using false twist yarn having at least 25numbers/m of crimp; twisting the yarn on 150-450 T/M of twists of warp and weft with a double twister having under 3% of difference between initial tension and final tension; warping the yarn; weaving the textile out of the yarn on 65-90Kg of tension; scouring the textile under a textile spreading condition and shrinking the textile at under 80deg.C at under 0.5deg.C/m of temperature rising speed on at least 35% of shrinkage in a liquid shrink device; pre-setting the textile at 170-190deg.C for 25-35seconds to make the textile having under 2% of elongation in a width direction; weight-reducing and dyeing the textile on 20-30% of weight reduction rate, followed by using urethane emulsion, an antistatic agent and a softener; resin-finishing the textile; and then final-setting the textile at 150-160deg.C for 25-35seconds.

Description

Manufacturing method of fabric having stretch property at the same time in warp and weft direction

The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric having a stretch (STRETCH) property in the long direction (tilt direction) and the width direction (weft direction) of the fabric, more specifically, the number of crimps of yarn 25 or more per meter (FALSE) TWIST YARN), the present invention relates to a method of processing a woven fabric through the yarn and the diameter to have a high stretch of at least 20% in the warp and weft direction at the same time.

With the development of life, diversification and luxuryization of consumer demands and values are proceeding very rapidly. Accordingly, the material of the garment is diversified and complexed, and the touch, appearance, and functionality are becoming more advanced.

As the interest in sports increases with the improvement of life, the preference of sports clothes becomes very high, and accordingly, many products applying the functionality of sports clothes have received great attention.

One of the most attentions among these functionalities is stretchability. Stretch materials include stretch fibers such as spandex, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) fibers, polyester-ether-based elastic yarns, and composite fibers, which have been spun with improved or modified polymers or elastomers. Processed yarns; Although these fibers are applied to knitted fabrics, polyurethane or various elastomers can be directly made into a nonwoven fabric by the MELT BOLW method. In general, the stretch rate required for apparel use is classified as shown in Table 1 below.

TABLE 1

As a material for clothing, especially for formal wear, excessive stretch is uncomfortable to wear and adversely affects health, so proper stretch is required.

The present invention exhibits a good stretchy fabric having a stretch ratio of 25 to 30%, showing a proper feel and abundant volume, a residual shrinkage ratio of less than 5% after stretching, and having a high stretch property of 20% or more at the same time in the weft and weft directions. It is an object of the present invention to provide a significantly reduced production cost compared to the prior art.

According to the present invention for achieving the above object, in the manufacturing method of stretch fabric, using twisted yarn having a crimp number of 25 / m or more, twisted yarn, diameter, weaving, refining / shrinkage, preliminary set, weight loss / dyeing, resin It is manufactured through the process of processing and rearranging set, but in the weaving process, the weaving process uses a double weaving machine having 150 to 450 T / M of soft / weft yarn and a difference between the initial tension and the final tension of the yarn within 3%. Adjust the tension to 65 ~ 90kg, pre-refining in the expanded state in the refining / reducing process, and in the liquid reducer to 80 ℃ or less and the temperature increase rate to 0.5 ℃ / m or less so that the warp / weft shrinkage is 35% or more. Provided is a method for producing a fabric having a stretch property of 20% or more simultaneously in both directions of warp / weft.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The yarn used in the present invention is limited to a processed yarn that has been properly processed so that the number of crimps per meter is 25 or more. If the number of crimps per meter is less than 25, the stretch rate is extremely low, and depending on the processing method, there may be almost no stretch rate. In addition, when using a non-processed yarn after spinning yarn, it is excellent in drape, but lack of bulkiness.

The manufacturing method is mainly composed of eight processes: ① twisting ② normal diameter ③ weaving ④ refinement and reduction ⑤ PRE SET ⑥ weight reduction and dyeing, ⑦ resin processing and ⑧ final set. Each of these processes will be described.

In the twisting step, the range of soft warp and weft yarn to achieve the present invention is limited to 150 ~ 450 soft water (T / M) per meter, and the twisting machine used is the first and the last to increase the uniformity of the final product A double twister with a final tension of less than 3% is preferred. When the number of years is less than 150 times per meter, the bulkiness of the final product is improved, but the resilience is extremely low, and the quality of the product is lowered. When the number of years exceeds 450 times per meter, the process of warping and humanity In the process of (LEASING-IN), the decompression power of the yarn is increased, so the back twist is severe and the workability is very poor. In particular, after twisting, never use a steam set (撚 SET) with steam to stop a given twist. In the case of performing the lead set, even if the lead set using the steam at the lowest temperature (60 ° C.) is used, the spray value of the final product is reduced to 1/2 or less, and the value as a commodity becomes very low.

In the canoning process, the canon of the prepared yarn is the same as the general method, and it is better to treat oil or an antistatic agent at the time of canon in order to avoid friction with adjacent yarns and to entangle each other. In addition, in terms of elasticity, it is better to select an organization with a slightly coarse organization point than a dense organization point, but an excessively coarse organization tends to cause wrinkles during refining and shrinking, so it is important to select an organization having an appropriate organization point. Do.

In the weaving process, the loom for achieving the present invention is not particularly limited, and an air jet loom or a water jet loom having a high loom speed in consideration of productivity is preferable. In addition, the tension during weaving should be lowered by 25 ~ 30% compared with the case of weaving general fabrics and should be operated in the range of 65 ~ 90kg. If the tension of the loom is the same or higher than that of weaving general fabrics, the stretchability of the final product is very poor, and the desired thickness can not be expressed.

In the refining / reducing step, refining and reducing steps are particularly important in order to achieve the present invention. The refinement / reduction process for achieving the present invention is divided into a preliminary refining process and a reduction process. The final product made of the present invention must go through the above two processes because the shrinkage of the fabric is very large and easy to wrinkle. In the case of pre-refining, the processing must be carried out in the expanded state to prevent creases in the fabric which are likely to occur, and a processing machine of three or more baths should be used, and the temperature is 50 ± 5 ° C. and 60 ° C. It is desirable to maintain a temperature of ± 5 ℃, 80 ± 5 ℃ or more, and should be adjusted so that the fabric stays for more than 30 seconds at each temperature. When each bath temperature is less than the above conditions, sufficient shrinkage does not occur, resulting in poor elasticity, and when the bath temperature is exceeded, wrinkles enter the cloth and the quality of the final product is degraded. The following reduction step is suitable for the liquid reducer, the temperature is preferably not more than 80 ℃ and the temperature increase rate is 0.5 ℃ or less per minute. When the temperature is less than 80 ° C, the shrinkage becomes unstable and the elasticity is poor. When the temperature is 80 ° C or more, wrinkles enter the fabric and the quality of the product is very poor. Moreover, when a temperature increase rate exceeds 0.5 degree-C / min, wrinkles will enter easily in a cloth, and the value as a product will fall very much. In addition, in order to fully exhibit the characteristics of the present invention, the reduction ratios of the warp and weft directions in the refining and reduction steps should be 35% or more, respectively. If it is less than 35%, sufficient stretchability according to the present invention cannot be obtained.

In the PRE SET process, the fabrics that have been refined / reduced are preferably subjected to a preliminary set using a pin tenter. It does not matter much about the model, but the preliminary set should be heated evenly for about 30 seconds at the temperature 170 ~ 190 ℃. If the temperature is less than 170 ° C, sufficient settability cannot be obtained, and thus it is easy to be wrinkled in the subsequent weight loss and dyeing process. If the temperature is higher than 190 ° C, the final product becomes hard and the value of the product decreases. In addition, it is preferable to maintain the elongation in the width direction within 2% and the inclination direction to maintain the shrinkage of the refinement and reduction so as not to impair the stretchability in the warp and weft directions.

In the weight loss / dyeing process, the fabrics that have been refined, reduced, or pre-set are reduced or dyed. The weight loss machine is a continuous weight loss device and a batch weight loss device. However, the desired stretch should not be impaired, and a reduction ratio of 20 to 30% is appropriate. If the reduction rate is less than 20%, the feel becomes hard and the product quality is reduced. If the reduction rate is more than 30%, the drape property of the final product becomes very far. Thereafter, the dyeing may be carried out by a general method. In addition, in order to fully exhibit the properties of the present invention, it is better to use a urethane emulsion (URETHANE EMULSION), an antistatic agent, and a softening agent alone or in combination with each other after dyeing.

In the final set step, the final set is performed as a final step for achieving the object of the present invention. The cleansing set may use the same type of pin tenter as the preliminary set, and it is preferable to be able to receive heat evenly for about 30 seconds at a temperature of 150 to 160 ° C. If the temperature is less than 150 ℃, there is not enough set effect, so the dry heat shrinkage rate of the final product becomes very large, and the shape of the clothes becomes very poor during sewing. Moreover, when temperature exceeds 160 degreeC, it will become hard and the value as a product will fall very much. At this time, it is good to adjust the over feed of the tenter so as to maintain the shrinkage in the warp and weft direction of the dyeing state so as not to degrade the stretchability.

After the manufacturing process as described above, the stretch ratio is 25 ~ 30%, showing the proper touch and abundant volume, the residual shrinkage rate after stretching is less than 5%, high stretchability at the same time in the warp and weft direction more than 20% It is possible to provide a good quality fabric having a significantly reduced production cost compared to the conventional,

Features and other advantages of the present invention as described above will become more apparent from the embodiments described below. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

<Example>

48 filaments, total fineness of 150 deniers and crimps of 30.2 yarns / m were twisted at a level of 350 times per meter using a double twister, and the total number of heads was 6,380. At the time of canon, 3% of antistatic agent was treated to avoid friction with neighboring yarns, and weaved into 2/2 twill tissue with the same yarn as the weft yarn at the level of 30 pieces per 1cm with an air jet loom. At this time, the loom tension was 90 kg, about 30% lower than that of ordinary yarn. The woven fabric thus prepared was preliminarily refined through a three-bed continuous refiner. At this time, the temperature of each bath was adjusted to be 50 ° C., 60 ° C., and 80 ° C., and the bubble velocity was adjusted to give 30 seconds of foam in each bath. Finished cloth is reduced by 1 hour from 50 ℃ to 80 ℃ using a liquid reducer so that the direction of weaving and weft is reduced by 35%, respectively, and is set to be + 1.5% by using a pin tenter. 180 Preset to 30 degreeC was carried out. The pre-set fabrics were weighted with water and washed with NaOH aqueous solution to 74% of the total weight using a batch reducer while being cautious to avoid tension. After dyeing, the product is immersed in a solution containing 10: 0.5: 1 of urethane emulsion, antistatic agent, and softening agent to soften the touch while maintaining elasticity, nipping to 80% of the weight of the fabric, and through a tenter in an atmosphere of 160 ° C. Cleanup set was performed for 30 seconds.

The resultant fabric is very flexible and has a thick feel, and the stretch test method of KS K 0352 5.1.2 stretch fabric shows 30% extensibility test and 20% repeated 5,000 times-relaxation and fatigue test. As a result, excellent physical properties of 95% inclined recovery and 97.5% in weft direction were obtained.

Claims (4)

In the manufacturing method of stretch fabric, the process of twisting, correcting, weaving, refining / reducing, preliminary setting, weight loss / dyeing, resin processing, and arranging set is performed using FALSE TWIST YARN having a crimp number of 25 / m or more. In the yarn weaving process, the number of years of light and weft yarn is 150 ~ 450 T / M, and a double yarn weaving machine with a difference between the initial tension and the final tension within 3% is used, and the tension is 65-90 kg in the weaving process. Pre-refining in the expanded state in the refining / reducing process, and in the liquid reducer to 80 ° C or less, the temperature increase rate of 0.5 ° C / m or less so that the reduction ratio in the light and weft direction is 35% or more. A method for producing a fabric having stretch property in the weft direction at the same time. The method of manufacturing a fabric having a stretch property in the warp and weft direction at the same time according to claim 1, characterized in that the preliminary set process is performed at 170 to 190 ° C for 25 to 35 seconds, and the elongation in the width direction is within 2%. . The method of claim 1, wherein the weight loss ratio is 20 to 30% in the weight loss / dyeing process, and after stretching, urethane emulsion, antistatic agent, and softening agent are used alone or in combination. Method for producing a fabric having a. The method for producing a fabric having stretch property in the warp and weft directions at the same time according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment is performed at 150 to 160 ° C for 25 to 35 seconds in a clean set process.