JPH02191702A - Cloth for lining - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject cloth for lining having flexibility and sufficient slipping by making percentage of crimping, flexibility and frictional coefficient of the surface of woven cloth to specific values. CONSTITUTION:Polyester-based filament yarn having >=30g/d initial tensile resistance is used as a warp and weft and a value of total percentage of crimping of the warp and weft divided by drape coefficient is made as >=7.5. Then, total value of slipping frictional coefficients in longitudinal direction and transverse direction of the woven fabric is made as <=1.1.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a lining made of a synthetic fiber fabric that is flexible and has high slippage.

[Prior Art] Conventionally, textiles made of polyester filament yarns are
It has properties that natural fibers and recycled fibers do not have, namely good wrinkle resistance, high abrasion resistance, and excellent dimensional stability when washed.
Although it has the property of having little change in appearance, it has a paper-like feel and is inferior in flexibility.

[Problem to be solved by the invention] In order to improve this paper-like texture and add flexibility, we weave using yarn with a high shrinkage rate, and then shrink and relax it to produce a fabric with good drapability. However, the fabrics obtained in this way often have poor surface quality due to processing wrinkles, etc., and the initial tensile resistance of the threads that make up the fabric is low, so some parts of the fabrics are not tensile. It has the disadvantage that only that part stretches when it is bent and does not recover, leaving distortions such as so-called knee and elbow gaps.

Similarly, in order to improve drapability, fabrics using yarns mixed with yarns with different shrinkage have good drapability (although they do have poor sliding friction because the low-shrinkage yarns float on the fiber surface). However, it has the disadvantage of lowering its requirements as a lining material.

In addition, as a process to obtain good drape properties,
There is a weight loss process using alkali treatment, which can easily achieve a high weight loss, but it has the disadvantage of losing its stiffness.

In order for the lining to blend well with the outer material and to adjust the silhouette of the garment, it is essential that it has softness, tension, and waist, that is, elasticity and suppleness. Also, it is easy to wear,
Good gliding is required to make it easy to take off.

An object of the present invention is to eliminate the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks and to provide a synthetic fiber fabric lining that is flexible and has good slippage, which are the required characteristics of a lining.

[Means for solving the problem] As a method of expressing this required characteristic, the present inventors thoroughly analyzed the lining characteristics and found that the suppleness characteristics are greatly influenced by the crimp rate and softness of the fabric, and the slip characteristics are Focusing on the fact that it is influenced by the surface friction coefficient of textiles, the present invention was arrived at as a result of intensive study.

The structure of the present invention is that the warp yarn and the weft yarn constituting the woven fabric are made of polyester filament yarns each having an initial tensile resistance of 30 g/d or more, and the sum of the crimp rates of the warp yarn and weft yarn when the woven fabric is decomposed is The lining is characterized in that the value divided by the drape coefficient is 7.5 or more, and the sum of the coefficients of sliding friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the fabric is 1°1 or less.

In the present invention, the crimp rate refers to the length of each of the warp and weft yarns in a woven fabric, and the length of the warp and weft yarns in a woven fabric, as well as the length of the woven fabric until the woven crimp is completely stretched and the fibers themselves stretch. It refers to the so-called form elongation rate of each length of yarn and weft, and specifically, it is determined by the following method.

(Crimp rate) A 20cm mark was placed on the warp and weft yarns of the fabric, and the disassembled warp and weft yarns were stretched using an Instron tensile tester, and the elongation under a load of 100mg/d (△l (cm)
) and calculate using the following formula.

Crimp rate (%) = (△//20) This is the drape coefficient, and specifically, it is determined by the following method.

(Dope coefficient) Hamburg coefficient calculated from the sagging rate of the surrounding area when a sample with a diameter of 1-0 inches is placed on a disk with a diameter of 5 inches.
It was determined from the drape coefficient of r (see "Fiber Measurement Handbook" (published by Japan Textile Machinery Society)).

On the other hand, in the present invention, the sum of the crimp rates of the warp and weft yarns of the fabric and the drape coefficient of the fabric are important; the larger the sum of the crimp rates of the warp and weft yarns of the fabric, the better the repulsion. , properties rich in elasticity can be obtained, and the smaller the drape coefficient, the more excellent properties in flexibility can be obtained.

That is, in order to obtain a fabric rich in flexibility, which is a feature of the present invention, it is better that the sum of the crimp rates of the warp and weft yarns of the fabric is large and the drape coefficient of the fabric is small. However, since it is inversely proportional to the drape coefficient, the value obtained by dividing the former by the latter best reflects its properties.

- It is easily possible to reduce the drape coefficient by increasing the weight loss for boat fishing, but even if a fabric with a low crimp rate is processed to reduce the weight, a soft fabric can be obtained, but it will not have tension or elasticity. Fabrics with high flexibility cannot be obtained.

In the present invention, flexibility refers to the ability of the fabric to hang down due to its own weight, as well as appropriate bending stiffness and bending recovery. The fabric exhibits excellent drapability.

As a result of studying the relationship between the structure of a woven fabric and its properties, the present inventors found that bending elasticity is proportional to the weave crimp created by the organization of the warp and weft yarns of the woven fabric, and that the more flexible the woven fabric, the more We focused on improving drapability.

Table 1 shows the results of two types of gray fabrics, finished with a constant weight loss rate and varying density, measured for crimp rate and drape coefficient, and evaluated for suppleness.

The weaving conditions are as follows.

B) Raw yarn used Near 5D-36 filament polyethylene terephthalate yarn used for warp and weft yarns) Warp density: 90 pieces/inch C) Weft density: 80 pieces/inch Filament polyethylene terephthalate yarn, weft yarn 75D-36 filament polyethylene terephthalate yarn (Head) Vertical density: 105 pieces/inch C) Weft density: 80 pieces/inch From the results in Table 1, the higher the crimp rate, the more
It can be seen that the lower the drape coefficient, the more supple and rich the fabric can be obtained. In other words, it is proportional to the Knompe rate,
It is inversely proportional to the drape coefficient, and those with a value of 7.5 or more -F, which is the former divided by the latter, were considered pliable.

The woven fabric in the present invention is not particularly limited, but includes plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and variations thereof, and the particularly effective woven fabric is the plain weave.

Furthermore, it is important that the initial tensile resistance of each of the warp, weft, and weft yarns of the disintegrated yarns of the woven fabric of the present invention is 30 g/d or more.

Here, the initial tensile resistance is determined as follows.

(Initial tensile resistance) In other words, the warp and weft yarns obtained by disassembling the fabric are JIs-L
It was calculated using the method of No. 1013.

If this initial tensile resistance is less than 30 g/d, when a part is pulled, that part stretches and does not recover, which causes distortion that remains, so-called knee-drop or elbow-drop.

Fabrics with low initial tensile resistance include yarns that exhibit high shrinkage behavior during processing. Although processed fabrics using such threads exhibit good drapability,
It has low initial tensile resistance and lacks morphological stability.

The sliding friction coefficient of the present invention refers to the friction coefficient when a cotton cloth is slid on a lining fixed to a flat surface, and specifically, it is determined by the following measuring method.

Note that FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a device for measuring the sliding friction coefficient according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a graph showing the relationship between frictional resistance and displacement measured by the device.

(Zuberi friction coefficient) The second part of sample a fixed under a tension of 30 g/cm,
The friction surface is 5 em x 7 cm, the weight is 100 g, and a cotton cloth of No.
The relationship between the frictional resistance force and the sliding distance at that time was determined as the frictional resistance force (Δ) shown below, and the friction coefficient (μ) was calculated using the following formula.

μ=A/M (M: weight of friction element (g), average value of A-sided frictional resistance force (g)) In the present invention, the sum of the vertical and horizontal friction coefficients is taken as the sliding friction coefficient of the fabric. .

In the present invention, it is important that the sum of the coefficients of sliding friction in the vertical and horizontal directions is 1.1 or less.

If the sliding friction coefficient exceeds 161, the sliding becomes poor, causing problems when putting on and taking off kimonos.

In addition, it becomes difficult to create a beautiful silhouette because it does not blend well with the outer material.

In order to achieve the sliding friction coefficient of 1.1 or less according to the present invention, a woven fabric using flat yarns for the warp and weft yarns may be used.

Furthermore, crimped yarns, bulky textured yarns, differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns, etc. due to temporary twisting, rubbing, heat treatment, etc. are not preferred because they increase the coefficient of sliding friction.

The polyester filaments in the present invention include those made of polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate and polytetramethylene terephthalate, and copolymers thereof.

In addition, in addition to the above polymers or copolymers, antistatic agents such as polyalkylene ether, block polyether amide, and conductive carbon black, flame retardants such as organic bromine compounds and organic phosphorous compounds, and known titanium oxide and kaolinite. ,
There is no problem in adding additives such as heat-resistant agents and light-resistant agents.

Next, a method for preferably manufacturing the above-mentioned lining of the present invention will be explained.

The lining of the present invention has a gray fabric weight of 100 g using, for example, a polyester flat yarn having a water shrinkage rate of 3 to 15% or a dry heat shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% at 180°C.
It can be produced by weaving a fabric of /ni' or less, increasing the basis weight by 15 to 40% without generating wrinkles, then heat setting, and then reducing the basis weight by 10 to 30%.

In the present invention, it is important to use flat yarns in order to obtain a supple and slippery backing fabric. Examples of the flat yarn include untwisted raw silk and raw silk that has been twisted to an extent that does not cause wrinkles. Crimped yarns, bulky textured yarns, differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns, etc. caused by temporary twisting, rubbing, heat treatment, etc. are not preferred because they increase the coefficient of sliding friction.

The polyester flat yarn has a water shrinkage rate of 3 to 15%, or a dry heat shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% at 180°C.

When the water retention shrinkage rate exceeds 15% or the dry heat shrinkage rate exceeds 20%, the fibers and woven structure become denser, resulting in an increase in the thickness of the fabric, which tends to cause wrinkles during relaxation shrinkage treatment, making it a product with no commercial value. is difficult to obtain. In addition, the initial tensile resistance of the decomposed yarns of textiles finished using raw yarns that exhibit high shrinkage behavior during processing is less than 30 g/d, and when the textile is partially stretched, that part does not stretch and recover, resulting in distortion. remain. This results in a lack of morphological stability, such as so-called knee-dropping or elbow-dropping.

Fabrics with plain weave, twill weave, and variations thereof are woven using raw yarn with such a water retention shrinkage rate or dry heat shrinkage rate.In order to obtain thin fabrics with high drape and a supple surface touch, it is necessary to use gray fabrics. It is important that the basis weight is 100 g/n (or less).Also, the lining of the present invention has a product thickness of approximately 0 g/n.
．． It can be said that the diameter is 2m+n or less, and preferably around 0.1 mi.

The fabric weight of the gray fabric woven as described above is increased by 15 to 40% during the dyeing process without causing wrinkles. The treatment for increasing the fabric weight can be achieved by area shrinkage due to shrinkage in the weft and weft directions, and in order to increase the gray fabric weight by 15 to 40%, the average shrinkage rate in the weft and weft directions is preferably 7 to 19%. Here, a more desirable result can be obtained if the transverse contraction and linear contraction are close to each other, or if the longitudinal contraction is larger.

Before heat setting in the next step, the cloth is shrunk in an expanded form while being kneaded as much as possible in a free state to avoid wrinkles.

What is important in this step is to obtain the target relaxation shrinkage rate, especially a sufficient shrinkage rate in the warp direction, and to avoid generating process wrinkles. Shrinking methods include hot water treatment, steam treatment, dry heat treatment, solvent treatment, and combinations of these treatments, which apply a kneading action to the woven fabric in a continuously spread state in a near-free state.

For hot water treatment and steam treatment, it is conceivable to use the apparatus shown in FIGS. 3 to 6.

Below, these devices will be briefly explained.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a hot water relaxer. The continuously expanded fabric 1 advances through the treatment tank 3 while being rubbed under no tension by a jet stream of hot water 2 from both sides of the fabric in hot water.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a relaxer using hot air beating. Strong high-temperature air jets 5 are alternately applied to the continuous spread fabric 1 from the upper and lower surfaces of the net conveyor 4.
is applied to relax and contract the fabric 1 without tension.

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a heat setter called a pin tenter. The continuous spread fabric 1 is a heat setter that is fixed to pins 6 and transported into a dry heat treatment zone 7.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of a jet dyeing machine. The endlessly tied fabric 1 is dyed in a dyeing machine 9 by a nozzle 8 that sprays water.
It is something that circulates within.

In order to obtain high drapability, it is best to first perform desizing and scouring while shrinking while kneading the fabric in a free state in hot water. Next, if necessary, it is preferable to perform free shrinkage by dry heat. As a device for this purpose, the device examples described above can be combined as appropriate. If the gray fabric is suddenly subjected to dry heat shrinkage treatment, the raw yarn will shrink and set at the same time, the weave crimp will become shallow, and it will be difficult to remove glue and dirt from the gray fabric, which is not desirable.

Next, the shape of the woven crimp is fixed by heat setting.
Heat setting is performed at a dry heat temperature of 200°C or less, usually 180 to 190°C, so that the weave crimp does not disappear.

After heat setting, the fabric weight that was increased in the previous process is reduced to 10 to 3.
Decrease by 0%. The basis weight reduction rate here refers to the degree of decrease in the fabric weight after the fabric weight increasing treatment and heat setting in the previous step. In this case, in order to reduce only the basis weight without changing the area of the woven fabric, it is preferable to reduce the basis weight by an alkali weight reduction process, which is usually carried out on polyester fabrics. The reduction rate of area weight due to weight reduction processing is 10-30%
Good.

After the date reduction treatment, processing such as dyeing may be carried out if necessary, and after that, it is preferable to apply a cationic or silicone-based smoothing agent to improve the smoothness of the fabric surface. Furthermore, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and texture of the textile surface, calendering or the like may be applied as appropriate.

The present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to examples. The evaluation method for flexibility and tensile strain is as follows.

(Flexibility) Judgment was made based on the state in which the fabric sagged due to its own weight and sensory evaluation based on handling.

Judgment criteria O: Excellent flexibility △: Slightly lacking flexibility
+ binding, the grip width was set to lin, the sheet was pulled to a load of 8 kg at a pulling speed of 1Qcm/mi*, and after returning, the condition after being left for 2 hours was judged with the naked eye.

Criteria for Judgment ○...Almost no distortion observed △...Some distortion observed ×...Example where considerable distortion was observed (Sample No. 1)...Example of the present invention Warp yarn, 75D136 with boiling water shrinkage rate of 7% as weft yarn
Using filament polyethylene terephthalate raw silk, the flat weave has a vertical density of 90 fibers/inch and a horizontal density of 80 fibers/inch.
A fabric with a fabric weight of 54 g/rrr was woven.

The obtained fabric is processed by the relaxing scouring machine shown in Figure 3 and the drying and heat treatment machine shown in Figure 4 to reduce the fabric weight to 34 without creating wrinkles.
After increasing by %, it becomes 190 without pulling vertically or horizontally.
An intermediate setting was carried out at 0.degree. C. using a tenter as shown in FIG.

Thereafter, a 20% alkali reduction treatment was performed using a jet dyeing machine shown in FIG. 6, and then dyeing was performed at 130° C. for 40 minutes.

Thereafter, the fabric was impregnated with a cationic softener, squeezed uniformly with a mangle, dried, and finished with a tenter finish set to remove processing wrinkles.

(Sample No. 2)...Comparative example Using the gray fabric of sample No. 1, an open soaper scouring machine,
After increasing the area weight increase rate to 14% using a cylinder dryer,
Intermediate setting was performed using the tenter shown in Figure 5. The subsequent processing was completed in the same manner as sample No. 1.

(Sample No. 3)... Comparative Example Using the same intermediate set fabric as Sample No. 1, a 6% alkali reduction treatment was performed using the jet dyeing machine shown in Fig. 6, and the subsequent processing was performed on Sample No. Finished in the same way as 1.

(Sample No. 4)...Example of the present invention Warp yarn, 750.24 filament with boiling water shrinkage rate of 8%, core of block polyetheramide composition of 4.8%
Polyethylene terephthalate containing % by weight, core/saya ratio using polyethylene terephthalate for the pod is 15/85
Composite antistatic yarn, 75D with boiling water shrinkage rate of 8% for weft yarn, 3
Using 6-filament polyethylene terephthalate raw silk, it was woven under the same gray machine conditions as sample No.
.

The same processing as in 1 was performed.

(Sample No. 5) Comparative Example The same processing as Sample No. 2 was performed using the gray fabric of Sample No. 4.

(Sample No. 6)...Example of the present invention 75D, 36 with boiling water shrinkage rate of 7.2% for warp and weft yarns
Using filament polyethylene terephthalate raw silk with a triangular cross section, it was woven under the same gray machine conditions as Sample No. 091.

The obtained fabric was processed in the same manner as Sample No. 1, except that the alkali weight loss rate was 22%.

(Sample No. 7) Comparative Example The gray fabric of Sample No. 6 was used and processed in the same manner as Sample No. 2, except that the alkali weight loss rate was 22%.

(Sample No. 8) Comparative example 75D, 36 with boiling water shrinkage rate of 25% for both warp and weft yarns
Using filament polyethylene terephthalate raw silk, weaving was carried out under the same gray machine conditions as Sample No. 1.

The fabric was processed in the same manner as Samples No. 1, except that the addition rate was changed to 51%.

(Sample No. 9)...Comparative example 75D with boiling water shrinkage rate of 2% for both warp and weft.

Using 36 filament polyethylene terephthalate raw silk, weaving was carried out under the same gray machine conditions as sample N001. The fabric was processed in the same manner as Sample No. 1, except that the area weight increase rate was 10%.

The results are shown in Table 2.

As is clear from Table 2, the textile lining according to the invention is extremely supple, slippery and exhibits less tensile strain than the comparative example.

Effects of the Invention As is clear from the results in Section 2, the lining of the present invention uses ordinary drawn polyester yarn, and has flexibility and slipperiness that cannot be obtained with conventional polyester linings, and has the excellent properties of polyester. characteristics, that is, good wrinkle resistance,
It has the remarkable effects of being highly abrasion resistant, having excellent dimensional stability after washing, and having the characteristics of little change in appearance.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a device for measuring a sliding friction coefficient according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a graph showing the relationship between frictional resistance and displacement measured by the device. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a hot water relaxer. FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a relaxer using hot air beating. FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a heat setter called a pin tenter. FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of a jet dyeing machine.

Claims (1)

[Claims] A value obtained by dividing the sum of the crimp ratios of the warp and weft yarns of the woven fabric by the drape coefficient when the woven fabric is made of polyester filament yarn with an initial tensile resistance of 30 g/d or more for each of the warp and weft yarns. is 7.5 or more, and the sum of the coefficients of sliding friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the fabric is 1.1.
A lining characterized by: