JP2008248438A - Fabric for lining cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an excellent fabric for lining cloth, which is excellent in slipperiness, drape and soft touch feeling, easy to make a cutting work, and also provides good comfort-to-wear feeling following wearer's movement when tailored to a piece of clothing. <P>SOLUTION: The fabric to be used as a lining cloth of a piece of clothing is such that 70 wt.% or more of side-by-side type crimped yarns of 40-50% in crimp percentage after subjected to boiling water treatment for 30 min are used in the warps and wefts respectively, and the elongation in the warp direction and the elongation in the weft direction of the fabric are set at 8-12% and 10-20%, respectively, and the transverse elongation is set at 1.2-1.8 times the longitudinal elongation, and also the longitudinal-transverse-average coefficient of dynamic friction (μ) of the fabric surface is set at 0.35-0.50. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric for lining suitable for use as a lining for clothing.

  In consideration of the ability to follow the outer material, many fabrics using woolen yarn made of polyester or polyamide have been used in the past as woven fabrics used for clothing lining. Since the crimped shape is imparted to each processed yarn in a random orientation, there is a problem that unevenness occurs in the fabric and the slippage is poor.

In view of this, several types of so-called side-by-side crimped yarns have been recently proposed in place of the wooly yarn (see, for example, Patent Document 1). In addition, although not a lining, an elastic fabric using a side-by-side type crimped yarn made of polyester fiber having an elastic modulus of 70% or more after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment and a crimping rate of 50% or more (for example, patent Document 2) is known.
Japanese Patent No. 3800922 Japanese Patent No. 2953539

  Although the above-mentioned side-by-side crimped yarns are more slippery than those using woolly processed yarns, depending on the stretch setting, fine wrinkles may occur and it may be difficult to slip. It has been demanded. In addition, a soft lining with excellent drape and swelling is desired, but the actual situation is that it has not reached such a touch. In addition, the conventional lining does not take into account the balance of the stretchability of the background, so it is difficult to follow the movement of twisting the body to the left and right, etc. There is a problem that the cutting position is not determined and workability is poor.

  The present invention has been made in view of such circumstances, and is excellent in slipperiness, draping property, and soft feeling, easy to cut, and good in conformity with human movement when made into clothing. An object of the present invention is to provide an excellent lining fabric that provides comfort.

  In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention is a woven fabric used for a lining of clothing, and a side-by-side type crimped yarn having a crimp rate of 40 to 50% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is provided for each of the warp and the weft. 70% by weight or more is used, the warp direction elongation of the fabric is 8 to 12%, the weft direction elongation is 10 to 20%, and the weft direction elongation is 1.2 to 1.8 of the warp direction elongation. The first gist is a woven fabric for lining which is set to be double and the background average dynamic friction coefficient (μ) of the fabric surface is set to 0.35 to 0.50.

  In addition, the present invention has a second lining fabric in which the side-by-side crimped yarn is made of polyethylene terephthalate, and the drape coefficient of the woven fabric is set to 0.40 or less. The lining fabric is a third aspect.

  And the present invention provides a lining fabric in which a non-twisted one is used as the warp, and a weft having a twist of 300 to 1500 T / m is used as the weft. And

  In the present invention, the “crimp rate after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment”, “elongation”, “background average dynamic friction coefficient”, and “drape coefficient” are values obtained according to the methods described below.

[Crimping rate after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment]
Hanging stand under a load W ₁ of 0.0015mN / dtex 5 times hank up to the latent crimpable side-by-side type composite yarn in the double with test scale machine, the load W ₂ further 0.88mN / dtex And measure the length (a). Then, it is left for 30 minutes with the load W ₁ applied, and then treated in boiling water for 30 minutes while maintaining this state. Then, it is air-dried for 30 minutes, a load W ₃ of 0.018 mN / dtex is applied, and the length (b) is measured. Next, after removing the load W ₃ , a load W ₄ of 0.44 mN / dtex is applied and the length (c) is measured. And the crimp rate after 30 minutes of boiling water processing is computed by the following formula | equation (1).

[Elongation]
Elongation under a stress of 4.9 N / cm when a 20 cm x 20 cm sample is stretched in the weft direction at a tensile rate of 0.2 mm / sec using KES-FB1 (trade name) manufactured by Kato Tech From (A: cm), it calculated according to the following formula (2).

[Background average dynamic friction coefficient (μ)]
Using KES-SE (trade name) manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., attach a cotton fabric of refined Kanakin No. 3 to a friction element having a friction surface dimension of 1 cm × 1 cm and a weight of 0.49 N at a speed of 5 cm / min. Then, the surface of the fixed sample was slid, and the dynamic friction coefficient was determined from the frictional resistance at that time by the following equation (3). Then, the average value of the dynamic friction coefficient when the sample (textile for lining) was slid in the warp direction and the average value of the dynamic friction coefficient when the sample was slid in the weft direction were defined as the weft average dynamic friction coefficient (μ) of the sample.

[Drape coefficient]
Measured according to JIS L 1096.66.19.7 method (-1999-G method).

  That is, the woven fabric for lining of the present invention uses a side-by-side type crimped yarn having a crimp rate of 40 to 50% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes for each of the warp and the weft. Is limited to a specific range, and the background average dynamic friction coefficient of the fabric surface is set to a specific range. Since this has both the stretchability and smoothness optimal for the lining, when used as a lining for clothing, it stretches moderately following the movement of the person, resulting in a very good wearing feeling. Moreover, since it has excellent drape and has a soft touch with swelling, there is no discomfort to the skin. Furthermore, unlike conventional stretch linings, there is a certain restriction on the stretchability. For example, when cutting multiple layers on a stretcher table, conventionally, the fabric is stretched and cut accurately. However, according to the lining fabric of the present invention, such inconvenience does not occur. In addition, the conventional stretch lining has a problem that the fabric stretches in the warp direction and protrudes from the outer surface when used for a long time, but has an advantage that such a problem does not occur.

  Among the lining fabrics of the present invention, in particular, those in which the side-by-side crimped yarn is made of polyethylene terephthalate are particularly excellent in heat resistance.

  Similarly, a fabric whose drape coefficient is set to 0.40 or less is particularly soft and soft to the touch.

  Further, a non-twisted one used as the warp and a one provided with a twist of 300 to 1500 T / m as the weft are particularly excellent in the drape and surface touch.

  Next, the best mode for carrying out the present invention will be described.

  First, the lining fabric of the present invention must use a side-by-side crimped yarn for each of the warp and the weft.

  The side-by-side crimped yarn is a yarn obtained by laminating two types of polymers having different shrinkage rates, and causes a crimp such as a coil to be generated on the fiber due to a two-component shrinkage difference caused by boiling water treatment or the like. It is a crimped yarn.

  The side-by-side crimped yarn used in the present invention should have a crimp rate of 40 to 50% after boiling water treatment for 30 minutes, preferably 45 to 48%. That is, if the crimping ratio is less than 40%, the crimping force is weak and the force to try to shrink is insufficient. Therefore, when trying to forcibly shrink, the resulting woven fabric tends to be uneven and the elongation is low. Therefore, the practicality as a lining is poor. On the other hand, if it exceeds 50%, the elongation is too high, the fabric is not stable and the cutting workability is deteriorated. Moreover, those with a crimping ratio exceeding 50% have a strong crimping force and a strong force to shrink, so it is difficult to keep the elongation low. It becomes difficult to finish the woven fabric so as to satisfy the setting condition of the present invention of “degree 10 to 20%”.

  Moreover, as a polymer which comprises the said side-by-side type | mold crimped yarn, it is suitable to use polyester which has fiber formation property, such as a polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT). Among these, it is particularly preferable to use PET for reasons such as heat resistance and handleability.

  Furthermore, the low viscosity polymer used for the side-by-side type crimped yarn is a homopolyester, and the high viscosity polymer is a copolymer of a copolymer component such as bisphenol A derivative, isophthalic acid, sodium sulfonate and the like with a homopolyester. And a copolyester.

  The side-by-side crimped yarn is converged in a raw yarn state into a multifilament and used as a warp and a weft. The fineness when used as warp and weft is preferably set to 30 to 100 dtex / 12 to 100 f. This is because if the yarn is thinner than the above range, the strength as the lining may be weakened. Conversely, if the yarn is thicker than the above range, the feeling of wearing and the ability to follow the outer surface may be deteriorated.

  The side-by-side crimped yarn may be untwisted or twisted, but when twisted, it is preferable to apply a real twist of 300 to 1500 T / m. It is. That is, by putting a real twist in the above range, it is possible to improve the drapeability by improving the tightness of the yarn and obtain an excellent surface touch. If the number of twists is less than 300, a drape feeling may not be obtained so much, and if the number of twists is greater than 1500, a drape feeling may occur rather than a drape feeling. In addition, it is preferable that the side-by-side crimped yarn subjected to actual twisting is used as the weft and the non-twisted side-by-side crimped yarn is used as the warp so that the warp and the weft direction are not easily obscured.

  The lining fabric of the present invention can be obtained by weaving the side-by-side type crimped yarn for each of warp and weft. At this time, the side-by-side crimped yarn must be used in an amount of 70% by weight or more based on the warp and the weft. That is, if it is less than 70% by weight, the effect of the side-by-side crimped yarn cannot be obtained.

  The yarn that can be used in the ratio of less than 30% by weight of the warp and weft together with the side-by-side crimped yarn is not particularly limited. For example, among polyester yarns, the single yarn fineness is 0. It is preferable to use a fine filament yarn of about 5 to 2.0 dtex without impairing the characteristic effects of the present invention.

  The woven structure of the woven fabric is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Of these, a plain weave is preferable in terms of thinness and lightness, and a twill weave, particularly a ½ to 2/2 twill weave structure, is preferable in terms of a beautiful finish.

  The number of warps and wefts to be knitted for obtaining the lining fabric of the present invention is usually preferably set to warp of 80 to 200 / 2.54 cm and weft of 70 to 150 / 2.54 cm. It is. That is, if the number of warps and wefts driven out of the above range, it is difficult to obtain preferable drape and slipperiness.

The cover factor lining fabrics of the present invention (CF), from the viewpoint of soft texture and lightness, CF ₁ warp direction from 600 to 1500, the weft direction of the CF ₂ is 500 to 1000, total CF 1100 It is preferable to set it to ˜2500. Among them, it is preferable to set so that the longitudinal CF ₁ is 800 to 1300, the lateral CF ₂ is 700 to 900, and the total CF is 1500 to 2100.

The warp direction CF ₁ and the weft direction CF ₂ can be obtained by the following equation (4), and the total CF can be obtained by the following equation (5).

  Further, the woven fabric for lining of the present invention must have a warp direction elongation of 8 to 12% and a weft direction elongation of 10 to 20%. That is, if the above elongation is smaller than this range, it is difficult to stretch when used as a lining, and the followability to the outer surface is poor and the wearing feeling may be deteriorated. In addition, if the elongation is larger than this range, it is difficult to obtain a feeling of fitting to the body due to excessive elongation. And the said weft direction elongation must be set to 1.2 to 1.8 times the warp direction elongation. This is because when the elongation in the weft direction is set in the above range with respect to the warp direction, the stretchability is in line with the movement of the body, and an excellent wearing feeling is obtained.

  Furthermore, the woven fabric for lining of the present invention should have the background average dynamic friction coefficient (μ) set to 0.35 to 0.50. In other words, when the background average dynamic friction coefficient (μ) is less than 0.35, the crimping rate is inevitably limited, resulting in poor stretchability. Conversely, the dynamic friction coefficient (μ) exceeds 0.50. This is because the surface has irregularities and is not smooth, and the feeling of wearing is worsened.

  In the lining fabric of the present invention thus obtained, side-by-side type crimped yarns having a crimp rate of 40 to 50% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes are used as warps and wefts. The weft direction elongation is limited to a specific range, and the average dynamic friction coefficient (μ) of the fabric surface is set to a specific range. Accordingly, this material has both the optimal stretchability and smoothness for the lining, and when used as a lining for clothing, it stretches moderately following the movement of the person, resulting in a very good wearing feeling. Moreover, since it has excellent drape and has a soft touch with swelling, there is no discomfort to the skin. Furthermore, unlike conventional stretch linings, there is a certain restriction on the stretchability. For example, when cutting multiple layers on a stretcher table, conventionally, the fabric is stretched and cut accurately. However, according to the lining fabric of the present invention, such inconvenience does not occur. In addition, the conventional stretch lining has a problem that the fabric extends in the warp direction and protrudes from the outer surface when used for a long time, but such a problem does not occur.

  In the woven fabric for lining of the present invention, the draping coefficient set to be 0.40 or less is particularly soft and soft to the touch.

  Next, examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be described. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[Example 1]
<Thread preparation>
As a first component for obtaining a side-by-side type crimped yarn, a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing a bisphenol A derivative, isophthalic acid and a homopolyester in a molar ratio of 5: 5: 90 (intrinsic viscosity 0.686) Prepared. Moreover, homopolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.470) was prepared as a 2nd component.

<Spinning>
Then, by performing melt spinning under the following conditions, a 56 dtex / 24f multifilament composed of side-by-side filaments in which the two different components were bonded together at a cross-sectional area ratio of 1: 1 was obtained. The crimp rate after treatment for 30 minutes with boiling water was 47%. Moreover, the elastic modulus after 30-minute boiling water treatment obtained according to the method described later was 68%.
<Spinning conditions>
Base temperature: 295 ° C
First Godled Roller: 80 ° C. × 1500 m / min Second Godled Roller: 150 ° C. × 4000 m / min

[Elastic modulus after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment]
Hanging stand under a load W ₁ of 0.0015mN / dtex 5 times hank up to the latent crimpable side-by-side type composite yarn in the double with test scale machine, the load W ₂ further 0.88mN / dtex And measure the length (a). Then, it is left for 30 minutes with the load W ₁ applied, and then treated in boiling water for 30 minutes while maintaining this state. Then, it is air-dried for 30 minutes, a load W ₃ of 0.018 mN / dtex is applied, and the length (b) is measured. Next, after removing the load W ₃ , a load W ₄ of 0.44 mN / dtex is applied and the length (c) is measured. Further, the load W ₄ is removed, a load W ₃ of 0.018 mN / dtex is applied again, and the length (d) is measured. And the elasticity modulus after a 30-minute boiling water process is computed by the following formula | equation (6).

<Weaving>
Next, the side-by-side crimped yarn was used for warps and wefts without being twisted, and woven into a 2/1 twill structure using a water jet weaving machine to obtain a living machine. The weaving conditions are as follows.
<Weaving conditions>
Raw machine width: 156cm
Raw machine density: Warp 139 / 2.54cm, Weft 90 / 2.54cm

<Processing>
Next, the obtained raw machine was disassembled, passed through an open soap type scourer of 4 tanks of 60 ° C., 85 ° C., 95 ° C. and 30 ° C., and then dried at 130 ° C. Subsequently, heat setting was performed at 190 ° C. for 30 seconds, weight reduction processing was performed at a weight loss rate of 6%, and liquid dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes. And the textile for lining was obtained by giving a final set (180 degreeC x 30 second). This fabric had a basis weight of 79 g / cm ² and a thickness of 0.23 mm. Moreover, the finishing form of this thing was as follows.
<Finish>
Finishing width: 123cm
Finishing density: warp 176 / 2.54cm, weft 112 / 2.54cm

[Comparative Example 1]
A woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that regular polyester multifilament (semi-dal, round cross section) of 56 dtex / 24f was used for the warp and the weaving conditions were as follows. The finished form of this product was as follows.
<Weaving conditions>
Raw machine width: 161cm
Raw machine density: warp 141 / 2.54cm, weft 96 / 2.54cm
<Finish>
Finishing width: 123cm
Finishing density: warp 185 / 2.54cm, weft 100 / 2.54cm

[Comparative Example 2]
An undrawn polyester yarn of 84 dtex / 36f (semi-dull, round cross section) was used and friction false twisted to obtain a false twisted yarn of 56 dtex / 36 f (stretching / restoring rate: 35%). Then, a woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that this false twisted yarn was used as the background and the woven structure was made into a plain weave and the weaving conditions were as follows. The finished form of this product was as follows.
<Weaving conditions>
Raw machine width: 155cm
Raw machine density: Warp 82 / 2.54cm, Weft 96 / 2.54cm
<Finish>
Finishing width: 123cm
Finishing density: 104 warps / 2.54 cm, 104 wefts / 2.54 cm

[Comparative Example 3]
A woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the false twisted yarn used in Comparative Example 2 was used as the background and the weaving conditions were as follows. The finished form of this product was as follows.
<Weaving conditions>
Raw machine width: 155cm
Raw machine density: Warp 142 / 2.54cm, weft 95 / 2.54cm
<Finish>
Finishing width: 123cm
Finishing density: warp 179 / 2.54cm, weft 109 / 2.54cm

[Example 2]
A woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the finishing form was as follows. This fabric had a basis weight of 74 g / cm ² and a thickness of 0.21 mm.
<Finish>
Finishing width: 125cm
Finishing density: Warp 173 / 2.54cm, weft 100 / 2.54cm

Example 3
A woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the finishing form was as follows. Basis weight of this product 84 g / cm ^2, the thickness was 0.27 mm.
<Finish>
Finishing width: 117cm
Finishing density: Warp 185 / 2.54cm, weft 114 / 2.54cm

[Comparative Examples 4 to 6]
A woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the finishing form was adjusted so that the degree of progress was as shown in Table 1 below.

Example 4
The side-by-side type crimped yarn used in Example 1 was used as a warp without untwisting, and the side-by-side type crimped yarn was used as a weft obtained by applying 1000 T / m actual twist in the S direction. Otherwise in the same manner as in Example 1, a woven fabric for lining was obtained. This fabric had a basis weight of 80 g / cm ² and a thickness of 0.21 mm. Moreover, the finishing form of this thing was as follows.
Finishing width: 121cm
Finishing density: warp 179 / 2.54cm, weft 112 / 2.54cm

Example 5
A woven fabric for lining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the woven structure was a plain weave and the weaving conditions were as follows. This fabric had a basis weight of 69 g / cm ² and a thickness of 0.15 mm. Moreover, the finishing form of this thing was as follows.
<Weaving conditions>
Raw machine width: 157cm
Raw machine density: warp 98 / 2.54cm, weft 85 / 2.54cm
<Finish>
Finishing width: 123cm
Finish density: warp 125 / 2.54cm, weft 96 / 2.54cm

Example 6
As the weft, a side-by-side crimped yarn having a real twist of 1600 T / m in the S direction was used. Other than that was carried out similarly to Example 4, and obtained the textile fabric for lining. This fabric had a basis weight of 82 g / cm ² and a thickness of 0.22 mm.

[Comparative Example 7]
Using a 56 dtex / 12f multifilament in which polyester side-by-side type crimped yarns having a crimp rate of 69% and an elastic modulus of 80% after 30 minutes of boiling water treatment are used for warp and weft, warp density of 110/2. A taffeta of 54 cm and a weft density of 80 / 2.54 cm was woven. And the textile fabric for lining was obtained by giving the process similar to Example 1 and performing a dyeing process.

  The warp elongation, the weft elongation, and the drape coefficient of the woven fabrics for backing which are the respective Examples and Comparative Examples were measured, and the results are shown in Tables 1 to 4 below. In addition, a stretch saxony made of 100% wool (elongation: warp / wet = 15/25%) was used as the outer material, and a men's jacket was sewn using the lining fabric on the back and sleeve linings.

  Five male monitors wear the above jackets and engage in office work for 3 hours in a room set at a room temperature of 25 ° C. Stretching of the lining fabric, slipping of the lining surface, draping, suppleness of the lining surface Each item was subjected to sensory evaluation as follows. Evaluation is based on a four-step evaluation of all five people who felt good… ◎, 3-4 people… ○, 1-2 people… △, nobody felt good… × It was. The results are summarized in Tables 1 to 4 below. Separately from the one for jackets, five women's monitors were allowed to cut five sheets of lining fabric on the spread table and cut them at the same time, and evaluated the ease of the cutting work. It was. Evaluation is for all 5 monitors who felt easy to cut… ◎, for 3-4 people… ○, for 1-2 people… △, when nobody felt that cutting work was easy ... 4 grades were evaluated. The results are also shown in Tables 1 to 4 below.

<Stretchability>
When the body was bent back and forth, moved left and right, and the arm was bent and stretched, it was evaluated whether the lining was good without stretching and feeling cramped.

<Slip of lining surface>
It was evaluated whether the lining surface moved smoothly following the movement of the body, and whether or not the portion where the lining hits during the attachment / detachment was good without resistance.

<Drapability>
When touching the surface of the lining, it was evaluated whether it was soft and drapeable, and whether the soft texture with the swell of the outer surface was maintained well without being damaged by the lining.

<Flexibility of the lining surface>
The lining surface was smooth and slippery, and it was evaluated whether it was swelled and supple.

  From the above results, it can be seen that the example products have good results for all items, while the comparative products include bad evaluation items and have practical problems.

Claims (4)

  A side-by-side type crimped yarn having a crimp rate of 40 to 50% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is used in each of the warp and weft yarns for 70% by weight or more. The elongation in the direction is 8 to 12%, the elongation in the direction of the weft is 10 to 20%, and the elongation in the direction of the weft is set to 1.2 to 1.8 times the elongation in the direction of the warp. A woven fabric for lining, wherein the average dynamic friction coefficient (μ) is set to 0.35 to 0.50.   The lining fabric according to claim 1, wherein the side-by-side crimped yarn is made of polyethylene terephthalate.   The lining fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a drape coefficient of the woven fabric is set to 0.40 or less.   The woven fabric for lining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a non-twisted one is used as the warp and a weft of 300 to 1500 T / m is used.