JP2005188003A - Base cloth for transparent padding and method for producing the same - Google Patents
Base cloth for transparent padding and method for producing the same Download PDFInfo
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- JP2005188003A JP2005188003A JP2003434090A JP2003434090A JP2005188003A JP 2005188003 A JP2005188003 A JP 2005188003A JP 2003434090 A JP2003434090 A JP 2003434090A JP 2003434090 A JP2003434090 A JP 2003434090A JP 2005188003 A JP2005188003 A JP 2005188003A
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本発明は、接着芯地用基布に関し、さらに詳しくはシャツや婦人服ブラウスなどの薄地アウター用途に適した接着芯地用基布に関する。 The present invention relates to a base fabric for an adhesive interlining, and more particularly to an adhesive interlining base fabric suitable for thin outer outer uses such as shirts and women's clothing blouses.
従来、洋服やブラウスなどを縫製する場合、縫製品の形態を保持し、更に裁断やミシン掛けなど縫製しやすくする目的から芯地が使用されている。
たとえば、特許文献１には、単糸繊度１．０ｄ以下のポリエステル加工糸を用いたソフトでドレープ性に優れた芯地用基布の製造方法が提案されている。
Conventionally, when sewing clothes, blouses, etc., interlining has been used for the purpose of maintaining the shape of the sewing product and facilitating sewing such as cutting and sewing.
For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a method for producing a base fabric for interlining having a soft and excellent draping property using a polyester processed yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.0 d or less.
また、最近は衣料用素材（表地）が薄地化して透けやすくなっており、表地の織組織と芯地の織組織が重なって縞状の模様が見えるモアレ現象が発生するという問題があった。
このモアレ現象を防止する芯地として、特許文献２では、経糸や緯糸が曲がり状態を呈して表地との織糸の重なりを周期的にならないようにしてある織物芯地が提案されている。
As an interlining to prevent this moire phenomenon, Patent Document 2 proposes a woven interlining that prevents warps and wefts from bending so that the overlap of the weaving yarn with the outer surface is not periodic.
しかしながら、特許文献１の芯地用基布は、総繊度は、２０〜１５０ｄであるため厚ぼったい芯地となり、単糸数も多いため透明性にも欠けるという問題があった。
また、特許文献２の織物芯地では、モアレは発生し難いが、加工糸の捲縮率は、１５％以下と低く表地への寸法追随性が悪いという問題があった。
一方、近年は衣料用素材がさらに薄地化して透けやすくなってきており、薄くて透けやすい芯地用基布が要求されてきている。しかし、総繊度２０ｄ以下の芯地用基布は、かつて製造が困難であった。この理由は、薄い芯地用基布を製造するためには、総繊度を細くし、かつ経糸・緯糸の糸本数を少なくすることにより可能であるが、総繊度を細くし、糸本数を減らせば製造工程中に目よれ（織糸がずれる欠点）が発生しやすく、工業的に安定して芯地用基布を製造することが困難とされてきたからである。
However, the base fabric for interlining of Patent Document 1 has a problem that it has a thick interlining because the total fineness is 20 to 150 d and lacks transparency due to a large number of single yarns.
Further, in the textile interlining of Patent Document 2, moire is unlikely to occur, but the crimp rate of the processed yarn is as low as 15% or less, and there is a problem that the dimensional followability to the outer surface is poor.
On the other hand, in recent years, clothing materials have become thinner and more transparent, and a base fabric for interlining has been demanded. However, it has been difficult to manufacture a base fabric for interlining having a total fineness of 20 d or less. The reason for this is that in order to produce a thin interlining fabric, it is possible to reduce the total fineness and reduce the number of warp and weft yarns, but reduce the total fineness and reduce the number of yarns. This is because eyebrows (defects in which weaving yarns shift) are likely to occur during the production process, and it has been difficult to produce an interlining fabric in an industrially stable manner.
本発明は、かかる従来技術の問題点を解決し、薄地衣料用素材に適した透明感に優れ、かつ表地への寸法追随性がよい薄くてソフトな芯地用基布であり、目よれの発生の少ない接着透明芯地用基布を安定して提供するものである。 The present invention solves the problems of the prior art, and is a thin and soft base fabric for interlining, which is excellent in transparency suitable for thin fabric materials, and has good dimensional followability to the outer fabric. A base fabric for an adhesive transparent interlining having less generation is stably provided.
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決するために鋭意検討を行った結果、以下のことを見出し本発明に到った。すなわち総繊度を細くしてかつ製造工程中に目よれのし難い芯地用基布を提供するために、加工糸の捲縮特性（捲縮率とトルク）に着目した。
従来、目よれは、製造工程上、製織時と染色加工時のいずれの場合にも発生する。なかでも、織機上での目よれと、染色機内での目よれが大きな原因であった。特に、染色機内の目よれが最大の要因であり、これを解消するためには、染色の前工程であるソフサー工程においてできるだけ織編物を縮めることが必要である。そのためには、捲縮特性が大きく関与することを見出した。
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found the following and have reached the present invention. That is, in order to provide a base fabric for an interlining which has a reduced total fineness and is difficult to be noticed during the manufacturing process, attention was paid to the crimp characteristics (crimp rate and torque) of the processed yarn.
Conventionally, blurring occurs in both the weaving and dyeing processes in the manufacturing process. Among them, the main causes were the blurring on the loom and the blurring in the dyeing machine. In particular, blurring in the dyeing machine is the biggest factor, and in order to eliminate this, it is necessary to shrink the woven or knitted fabric as much as possible in the softer process, which is a pre-process of dyeing. For this purpose, it has been found that the crimp characteristics are greatly involved.
すなわち、第１の発明は、仮撚加工糸を用いた織編物からなる芯地用基布であって、前記仮撚加工糸は交絡せしめたものであり、かつ総繊度が２２ｄｔｅｘ以下、単糸繊度が０．９〜２．０ｄｔｅｘ、捲縮率が３０％以上、トルクが２００Ｔ／Ｍ以上であることを特徴とする透明芯地用基布である。 That is, the first invention is a base fabric for interlining made of a woven or knitted fabric using false twisted yarn, wherein the false twisted yarn is entangled and has a total fineness of 22 dtex or less, a single yarn A transparent interlining base fabric having a fineness of 0.9 to 2.0 dtex, a crimping ratio of 30% or more, and a torque of 200 T / M or more.
第２の発明は、前記仮撚加工糸の繊維横断面が異型断面であることを特徴とする第１の発明記載の透明芯地用基布である。 The second invention is the transparent interlining base fabric according to the first invention, wherein the false-twisted yarn has a fiber cross section having an atypical cross section.
第３の発明は、前記異型断面が三角断面であることを特徴とする第２の発明記載の透明芯地用基布である。 A third aspect of the invention is the transparent interlining base fabric according to the second aspect of the invention, wherein the modified cross section is a triangular cross section.
第４の発明は、前記仮撚加工糸の繊維横断面のシェイプファクターが１．４以上からなることを特徴とする第１〜３の発明いずれか一項に記載の透明芯地用基布である。（ただしシェイプファクター＝断面の外接円直径／断面の内接円直径） A fourth invention is the transparent interlining fabric according to any one of the first to third inventions, wherein a shape factor of a fiber cross section of the false twisted yarn is 1.4 or more. is there. (However, shape factor = circumscribed circle diameter of the cross section / inscribed circle diameter of the cross section)
第５の発明は、前記透明芯地用基布のカバーファクターが５００〜９００の織物であることを特徴とする第１の発明記載の透明芯地用基布である。 A fifth invention is the transparent interlining fabric according to the first invention, wherein the transparent interlining fabric is a woven fabric having a cover factor of 500 to 900.
第６の発明は、前記仮撚加工糸の交絡数が４０個／ｍ以上であることを特徴とする仮撚加工糸からなる第１の発明記載の透明芯地用基布である。 6th invention is the base fabric for transparent interlinings of 1st invention which consists of false twisted yarn characterized by the number of entanglement of said false twisted yarn being 40 pieces / m or more.
第７の発明は、総繊度が２２ｄｔｅｘ以下であり、かつ単糸繊度が０．９〜２．０ｄｔｅｘの原糸を仮撚し、次いで捲縮率が３０％以上、トルクが２００Ｔ／Ｍ以上の仮撚捲縮加工糸となし、交絡処理を施した後、かかる仮撚捲縮加工糸を少なくとも一部に用いて製編織して芯地用基布を製造することを特徴とする透明芯地用基布の製造方法である。 According to a seventh aspect of the present invention, a raw yarn having a total fineness of 22 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 0.9 to 2.0 dtex is false twisted, and then a crimp rate of 30% or more and a torque of 200 T / M or more. A transparent interlining comprising a false twisted yarn, knitted and woven using at least a part of the false twisted crimped yarn, and subjected to entanglement treatment to produce a base fabric for interlining It is a manufacturing method of the base fabric.
第８の発明は、前記仮撚捲縮加工糸を少なくとも経糸または緯糸のどちらか一方に用いて製織して芯地用基布を製造することを特徴とする第７の発明記載の透明芯地用基布の製造方法である。 According to an eighth aspect of the invention, there is provided a transparent interlining according to the seventh aspect of the invention, wherein the false twisted crimped yarn is woven using at least one of warp and weft to produce a base fabric for interlining. It is a manufacturing method of the base fabric.
本発明の透明芯地用基布は、透明性に優れ、薄くかつソフトで表地への寸法追随性がよく、伸縮性に優れた芯地用基布である。また、製造工程中に目よれの発生も少なく品質の安定した接着芯地用基布の製造方法である。 The base fabric for transparent interlining of the present invention is a base fabric for interlining having excellent transparency, being thin and soft, having good dimensional followability to the surface, and having excellent stretchability. In addition, the present invention is a method for producing a bonded fabric for an adhesive interlining with less occurrence of blurring during the production process and stable quality.
以下に本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明の透明芯地用基布は、仮撚加工糸からなる織編物からなる。
そして、本発明の織編物に用いられる仮撚加工糸の原料としては、たとえばポリエステル樹脂、ポリエステル系樹脂（共重合ポリエステル、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートなど）、ポリアミド樹脂などがあげられる。
これらの樹脂を紡糸し原糸として用いることができる。なお、これらの樹脂を２種類以上組み合わせた複合繊維を原糸として用いてもよい。
なかでも、乾熱収縮や湿熱収縮など熱による寸法安定性や耐候性が良く、かつ安価なポリエステル樹脂、ポリエステル系樹脂を用いることが好ましい。このなかでも特にポリエチレンテレフタレートを主体とするポリエステル樹脂を用いることが熱に対する安定性の点から好ましい。
The present invention is described in detail below.
The base fabric for transparent interlining of the present invention is made of a woven or knitted fabric made of false twisted yarn.
Examples of the raw material of false twisted yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention include polyester resins, polyester resins (copolyester, polybutylene terephthalate, polyterephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc.), polyamide resins, and the like. It is done.
These resins can be spun and used as a raw yarn. In addition, you may use the composite fiber which combined 2 or more types of these resin as a raw yarn.
Among them, it is preferable to use a polyester resin or a polyester-based resin that has good dimensional stability and weather resistance due to heat such as dry heat shrinkage and wet heat shrinkage and is inexpensive. Among these, it is particularly preferable to use a polyester resin mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate from the viewpoint of heat stability.
また、上記樹脂に二酸化チタン等のつや消し剤を含有してもよい。含有量によって、スーパーブライト糸やブライト糸にすると光沢と透明性から好ましいが、表地の種類によっては、セミダル糸、ダル糸でもよい。 Moreover, you may contain matting agents, such as titanium dioxide, in the said resin. Depending on the content, a super bright yarn or a bright yarn is preferable in terms of gloss and transparency, but depending on the type of surface material, a semi-dal yarn or a dull yarn may be used.
また紡糸方法は特に限定するものではないが、直接紡糸延伸法（スピンドロー）が生産性の点から好ましい。 The spinning method is not particularly limited, but the direct spinning drawing method (spin draw) is preferable from the viewpoint of productivity.
そして、本発明の織編物に用いられる仮撚加工糸の総繊度は、透明性と薄さを追求するために好ましくは２２ｄｔｅｘ以下、さらに好ましくは１７ｄｔｅｘ以下である。 The total fineness of the false twisted yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 22 dtex or less, more preferably 17 dtex or less in order to pursue transparency and thinness.
またかかる仮撚加工糸は、ソフトな風合いを得るという点から単糸数が多い方が好ましく、透明性を高めるには単糸数が少ない方が好ましい。本発明の総繊度を上記構成とすると、単糸数１０〜２４本程度が好ましい。これらを単糸繊度に換算すると０．９〜２．０ｄｔｅｘであり、特に１．１〜２．０ｄｔｅｘが好ましい。 In addition, such false twisted yarns preferably have a large number of single yarns from the viewpoint of obtaining a soft texture, and preferably have a small number of single yarns in order to improve transparency. When the total fineness of the present invention is the above configuration, the number of single yarns is preferably about 10 to 24. When these are converted into single yarn fineness, it is 0.9 to 2.0 dtex, and 1.1 to 2.0 dtex is particularly preferable.
次に本発明の織編物に用いる仮撚加工糸の繊維横断面形状は、特に限定するものではないが、異型断面が好ましい。なかでも、透明性を高める点から光の反射しやすい三角断面が好ましい。 Next, the fiber cross-sectional shape of the false twisted yarn used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but an irregular cross-section is preferable. Among these, a triangular cross section that easily reflects light is preferable in terms of enhancing transparency.
また繊維横断面形状の異型度を示すシェイプファクター（Ｓｆ）は、１．４以上が好ましく、より好ましくは１．６以上が好ましい。シェイプファクター（Ｓｆ）とは、下式
Ｓｆ＝繊維横断面の外接円の直径／繊維横断面の内接円の直径
で求めたものである。
The shape factor (Sf) indicating the degree of atypical shape of the fiber cross-sectional shape is preferably 1.4 or more, more preferably 1.6 or more. The shape factor (Sf) is obtained by the following formula: Sf = diameter of circumscribed circle of fiber cross section / diameter of inscribed circle of fiber cross section.
なお、本発明の織編物に用いる仮撚加工糸において所望の横断面形状を備えるためには、ＰＯＹ（半延伸糸）を仮撚するよりも延伸糸を仮撚する方が好ましい。この理由は、延伸糸の方が仮撚時に繊維横断面が変形しにくいからである。すなわち、ＰＯＹ（半延伸糸）の場合、ポリマーの非晶質部分が多いためにやわらかく仮撚時に横断面形状が変形しやすい。たとえば、仮撚加工前に三角断面であっても、仮撚加工後は変形してしまうことがあり、三角断面ではなくなる可能性が高い。一方、延伸糸であると結晶部分が多いために硬く、仮撚加工しても、断面変形が少ない。 In addition, in order to provide the desired cross-sectional shape in the false twisted yarn used for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to falsely twist the drawn yarn rather than false twisting POY (semi-drawn yarn). This is because the drawn yarn is less likely to deform the fiber cross section during false twisting. That is, in the case of POY (semi-drawn yarn), since there are many amorphous parts of the polymer, the cross-sectional shape is easily deformed during false twisting. For example, even if it has a triangular cross section before false twisting, it may be deformed after false twisting, and there is a high possibility that it will not be a triangular cross section. On the other hand, drawn yarn is hard because there are many crystal parts, and even when false twisted, there is little cross-sectional deformation.
次に本発明の織編物の仮撚加工糸についてさらに説明する。
本発明の重要な捲縮特性である捲縮率とトルクは、仮撚時の撚係数と仮撚ヒーター温度を適宜設定することによって、所望の範囲に得られる。
ここで仮撚時に設定する撚係数（次式に示す）は、１５０００以上望ましくは２００００以上であることが好ましい。
なお、延伸糸を仮撚する方が、ＰＯＹ（半延伸糸）より硬いためトルクが大きくなりやすいく好ましい。
Next, the false twisted yarn of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be further described.
The crimp ratio and torque, which are important crimp characteristics of the present invention, can be obtained in a desired range by appropriately setting the twist coefficient and false twist heater temperature during false twist.
Here, the twist coefficient (shown in the following formula) set at the time of false twisting is preferably 15000 or more, more preferably 20000 or more.
The false twisting of the drawn yarn is preferable because it is harder than POY (semi-drawn yarn) and the torque tends to increase.
そして、本発明の仮撚加工糸の重要な点は捲縮率が３０％以上という点である。
かかる捲縮率とは、仮撚加工糸に重荷重をつるした際の長さから、重荷重を外して軽荷重をつるした際の長さを引いた差と、重荷重をつるした際の長さとの比である。すなわち、糸の長手方向に対する直線的な収縮を表すといえる（なお、測定方法は後述する）。
本発明の仮撚加工糸の捲縮率が３０％以上であると、糸条は細かいクリンプを有して太くなるため、基布を製織する際に経糸と緯糸の交差点での摩擦が大きくなり、経糸や緯糸が移動しにくくなり、目よれを起こしにくくなる。また、捲縮率が大きいため、織編物を染色する前の工程であるソフサー工程においては、織編物が十分に縮むことができるため、これにより染色機内での目よれが発生し難くなる。
また、捲縮率が３０％以上であれば、収縮したものが染色加工中にさらに縮んで織編物の伸度１０〜５０％が得ることができ、表地への寸法追随性がよくなる。
An important point of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is that the crimp rate is 30% or more.
The crimping rate is the difference between the length when the heavy load is hung on the false twisted yarn, the difference between the length when the heavy load is removed and the light load is hung, and the length when the heavy load is hung. It is the ratio to the length. That is, it can be said that it represents linear shrinkage with respect to the longitudinal direction of the yarn (a measuring method will be described later).
When the crimp rate of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is 30% or more, since the yarn has a fine crimp and becomes thick, the friction at the intersection of the warp and the weft becomes large when weaving the base fabric. , Warps and wefts are less likely to move and are less likely to cause eye strain. In addition, since the crimping rate is large, the knitted fabric can be sufficiently shrunk in the softer process, which is a process before dyeing the woven or knitted fabric, so that it is difficult to cause blurring in the dyeing machine.
Further, if the crimping ratio is 30% or more, the contracted one can be further shrunk during the dyeing process to obtain an elongation of 10 to 50% of the woven or knitted fabric, and the dimensional followability to the outer surface is improved.
次に本発明の仮撚加工糸はトルクが２００Ｔ／Ｍ以上であることが重要である。
仮撚加工とは、加撚域で撚りを掛けて熱セットした撚を、解撚域で強制的に戻して最終的には実撚の入らない加工糸にすることである。トルクとは、この強制的に戻した後に加撚状態に戻ろうとするモーメントである。すなわち、糸の長手方向を軸とした回転力を表す。トルクが大きいと、加工糸はビリやスナールなどのループやよじれの多い糸となり、織編物としては、布表面に大きく回転し縮もうとする力が働いて凹凸を持ったシボ立った織編物となる。このシボ立とうとする力は、経糸や緯糸がずれようとする際の抵抗力となり、目よれし難くなる。トルクが２００Ｔ／Ｍ未満であると単糸は残留する回転力がないために、織編物が平面的になり、経糸や緯糸がずれようとする際の抵抗力がなくなり目よれしやすい。
Next, it is important that the false twisted yarn of the present invention has a torque of 200 T / M or more.
The false twisting is to forcibly return the twist set in the twisted region and heat-set in the untwisted region to finally make the processed yarn free from actual twist. Torque is the moment to return to the twisted state after this forcible return. That is, it represents the rotational force about the longitudinal direction of the yarn. When the torque is large, the processed yarn becomes a loop or twisted yarn such as billiard or snare, and as a knitted or knitted fabric, a force that tries to rotate and shrink on the cloth surface works, and a wrinkled standing woven or knitted fabric Become. The force to make the wrinkle is a resistance force when the warp and the weft are about to be displaced, and it is difficult to see. If the torque is less than 200 T / M, the single yarn has no residual rotational force, so that the knitted or knitted fabric becomes planar, and the resistance force when the warp and weft are about to shift is lost, and the yarn is easily obscured.
また、本発明の仮撚加工糸は交絡処理を行うことが重要である。
交絡処理の具体的な処理方法は特に限定しないが、生産性の点からは流体交絡処理とすることが好ましい。交絡処理を施さず織物とした場合、単糸相互の集束力がないため、経糸と緯糸の交差点においては、単糸がばらけたままで水平に１列に並んだ状態となる。すなわち、１本の細い単糸同士である経糸と緯糸とが、交差する状態となるので、簡単に経緯方向にずれ、目よれしやすい。一方、交絡数が４０個／ｍ以上、より好ましくは６０個／ｍ以上であれば、糸条は交絡により集束した１本の束となりやすく、太い束同士が交差した状態となるため大きな摩擦抵抗となり、目よれし難くなり好ましい。
Moreover, it is important that the false twisted yarn of the present invention is entangled.
Although the specific processing method of a confounding process is not specifically limited, It is preferable to set it as a fluid confounding process from the point of productivity. When the woven fabric is not subjected to the entanglement treatment, the single yarns do not have the focusing force between the single yarns. Therefore, at the intersections of the warp yarns and the weft yarns, the single yarns are scattered and arranged in a single row. That is, since the warp and the weft which are one thin single yarn are in an intersecting state, the warp and the weft are easily displaced in the weft direction. On the other hand, if the number of entanglements is 40 pieces / m or more, and more preferably 60 pieces / m or more, the yarn tends to be one bundle focused by entanglement, and the thick bundles cross each other, resulting in a large frictional resistance. This is preferable because it is difficult to squeeze.
次に本発明の透明芯地用基布の織編物について詳述する。
本発明の芯地用基布は織物でも編物でも構わないが、芯地に必要なハリ・コシを保ったまま薄地化が容易な点で織物が好ましい。
織物の場合、織組織は特に限定するものではないが、平織、綾織、朱子織が好ましく、特に平織が他の織組織に比べ経糸・緯糸の交差点が多いために、薄地でありながら目よれがし難く好ましい。
Next, the woven or knitted fabric of the transparent interlining fabric of the present invention will be described in detail.
The interlining base fabric of the present invention may be a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, but a woven fabric is preferred in that it can be easily thinned while maintaining the firmness and stiffness necessary for the interlining.
In the case of woven fabrics, the weaving structure is not particularly limited, but plain weave, twill weave and satin weaving are preferable. It is difficult and preferable.
そして、上記構成に加えて、カバーファクター（以下ＣＦという）は５００〜９００が好ましい。この範囲であると、薄さ、透明性に優れた基布を得やすい。ＣＦが小さすぎると、透明性は増すが粗い織物になり経糸や緯糸がずれやすく、目よれして品質の安定した製品を得られ難くなる。またＣＦが大きすぎると緻密な織物となり、薄さと透明性を得ることが困難になる。また、上述したような捲縮特性をもった仮撚加工糸を用いてかつ、ＣＦがこの範囲であると、透明性を保つことが容易なうえ、接着用芯地とする際に接着剤のドッドをのせやすく、表地に接着した際の剥離強度も維持でき、芯地として必要な機能が得られやすくなり、好ましい。
なおカバーファクターは下式で求められる。
The cover factor can be calculated by the following formula.
また本発明の織編物の目付は８〜３０ｇ／ｍ2、厚さは０．０５〜０．２０ｍｍであることが、薄さ、軽量化の点から好ましい。この範囲であると、薄地でありながら目よれし難い芯地用基布を得ることができる。 The basis weight of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 8 to 30 g / m 2 and the thickness is preferably 0.05 to 0.20 mm from the viewpoint of thinness and light weight. Within this range, it is possible to obtain a base fabric for interlining that is thin but difficult to see.
また、本発明の織編物の伸度は１０〜５０％であることが表地への追随性がよく好ましい。この範囲であると、表地と芯地を接着した場合、カール現象をおこしたり、部分剥離を生じてふくれやしわになることが少ない。 Moreover, it is preferable that the elongation of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is 10 to 50% because the followability to the surface is good. Within this range, when the outer material and the interlining are bonded, curling phenomenon or partial peeling is less likely to cause blistering or wrinkling.
次に、本発明の透明芯地用基布の具体的な製造方法の例について述べる。
上述するポリエステルなどの樹脂を直接紡糸延伸法などを用いて、総繊度２２ｄｔｅｘ以下、単糸繊度０．９〜２．０ｄｔｅｘの延伸糸に紡糸する。次に、得られた延伸糸を、捲縮率３０％以上、トルク２００Ｔ／Ｍ以上に仮撚加工を施す。このときの仮撚加工の条件は前述した通りであるが、撚係数が１５０００以上特に好ましくは２００００以上、仮撚ヒーターの温度は、１９０〜２５０℃が好ましい。次に、得られた仮撚加工糸を流体交絡などの交絡処理を施し、交絡数４０個／ｍ以上特に好ましくは６０個／ｍ以上に交絡する。ついで、得られた仮撚加工糸を少なくとも経糸または緯糸のいずれか一方に使用し、平織等に製織する。また基布に編物を用いる場合は、この仮撚加工糸を少なくとも一部に用いて製編する。次いで解反−ソフサー―プレセット―アルカリ減量―染色加工を施し芯地用基布に仕上げる。なお、仕上げ後のＣＦは５００〜９００が好ましい。また、このときの透明芯地用基布の目付は８〜３０ｇ／ｍ2、厚さは０．０５〜０．２０ｍｍが好ましい。かかる方法により、透明性、ソフト性、寸法追随性に優れた芯地用基布を安定して製造することができる。
Next, the example of the specific manufacturing method of the base fabric for transparent interlining of this invention is described.
The above-described resin such as polyester is spun into a drawn yarn having a total fineness of 22 dtex or less and a single yarn fineness of 0.9 to 2.0 dtex using a direct spinning drawing method or the like. Next, the obtained drawn yarn is false twisted to a crimp rate of 30% or more and a torque of 200 T / M or more. The conditions for false twisting at this time are as described above, but the twist coefficient is preferably 15000 or more, particularly preferably 20000 or more, and the temperature of the false twist heater is preferably 190 to 250 ° C. Next, the obtained false twisted yarn is subjected to entanglement treatment such as fluid entanglement, and entangled to 40 / m or more, more preferably 60 / m or more. Next, the false twisted yarn obtained is used for at least one of warp and weft and woven into a plain weave or the like. When a knitted fabric is used for the base fabric, the false twisted yarn is used for knitting at least partially. Next, the base fabric for interlining is finished by applying a disaggregation-softer-preset-alkali weight loss-dyeing process. In addition, as for CF after finishing, 500-900 are preferable. In addition, the basis weight of the transparent interlining fabric is preferably 8 to 30 g / m 2 and the thickness is preferably 0.05 to 0.20 mm. By this method, it is possible to stably produce a base fabric for interlining having excellent transparency, softness, and dimensional followability.
以下、実施例によって本発明をさらに詳しく説明する。尚、以下の実施例のおける特性値は、次に示す方法によって測定したものである。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The characteristic values in the following examples are measured by the following method.
（１）トルク
試料８０ｃｍを取り、試料中間点に０．０４４ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘの荷重をつるし、試料を２つ折りにする。試料上部をクランプで固定し、回転が停止した時点で撚が戻らないようにして２５ｃｍの検撚機にかけ（初荷重０．８８ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ）、次式により算出した。
トルク（Ｔ／Ｍ）＝検撚数×４
(1) Torque Take a sample of 80 cm, suspend a load of 0.044 mN / dtex at the midpoint of the sample, and fold the sample in half. The upper part of the sample was fixed with a clamp, and when the rotation stopped, it was applied to a 25 cm inspection machine (initial load 0.88 mN / dtex) so that the twist did not return, and the following formula was used.
Torque (T / M) = Number of twisted threads x 4
（２）捲縮率
０．８８ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘの初荷重をかけ、ラップリールで捲き数１０回の小カセを試料より採取する。これを温水処理し、０．０１８×２０ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘの軽荷重と０．８８×２０ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘの重荷重を加えて温度２０℃の水中に浸漬した後、カセ長を測り（ｌ1）、重荷重を取り除いて軽荷重のみで２分間放置後、カセ長を測り（ｌ2）、次式により算出した。
捲縮率＝｛（ｌ1−ｌ2）／ｌ1｝×１００（％）
(2) Crimp rate An initial load of 0.88 mN / dtex is applied, and a small casserole of several tens of times is collected from the sample with a lap reel. This was treated with warm water, and after applying a light load of 0.018 × 20 mN / dtex and a heavy load of 0.88 × 20 mN / dtex and immersing it in water at a temperature of 20 ° C., the casket length was measured (l 1 ). After removing the load and leaving it alone for 2 minutes with only a light load, the sword length was measured (l 2 ) and calculated by the following formula.
Crimp rate = {(l 1 −l 2 ) / l 1 } × 100 (%)
（３）伸度
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９６．８．１４．１伸縮織物の伸縮性、伸長率Ｂ法（定荷重法）による。ただし荷重は４．９Ｎ／ｃｍ幅にて評価した。
(3) Elongation According to JIS-L-1096.88.14.1 stretchability of stretch fabric, elongation rate B method (constant load method). However, the load was evaluated at 4.9 N / cm width.
（４）目よれ
検反（縦１２２ｃｍ×横５０ｍ）当たり、目よれ（縦５ｍｍ×横５ｍｍ以上の大きさ）の個数が５個未満のものを◎、１０個未満のものを○、１５個未満のものを△、２０個以上を×とした。
(4) Eye contact Number of eye contact (size of 5mm × 5mm or more) less than 5 per inspection (length 122cm x width 50m) is ◎, less than 10 ○, 15 Those less than Δ were Δ, and 20 or more were X.
（５）透明性
本発明の芯地用基布と、３３ｄｔｅｘ／１２ｆの平織物（カバーファクター＝７７０）とを重ねて、光を透過させ重なった部分と重ならない部分との区別を行い、区別がほとんど視認できないものを◎、容易に視認し難いものを○、やや視認できるものを△、容易に視認できるものを×とした。
(5) Transparency The base fabric for interlining of the present invention and a plain fabric of 33 dtex / 12f (cover factor = 770) are overlapped to distinguish between a portion that transmits light and a portion that does not overlap. Of the material that can hardly be visually recognized, ◯ that is difficult to visually recognize, ◯ that is slightly visible, and × that that is easily visible.
（６）風合い
芯地用基布の風合いをベテランが判定し、芯地として使用可能なコシがあり、ソフト感があるものから、優れている：◎、並み：○、やや不足：△、不良：×と評価した。
(6) Texture Veteran judges the texture of the interlining fabric, and it is excellent because it has a softness that can be used as interlining and has a soft feeling: ◎, Average: ○, Slightly insufficient: △, Defective : Evaluated as x.
（実施例１）
二酸化チタンを含有するポリエステル樹脂を溶融後、直接紡糸延伸法にて、１７ｄｔｅｘ／１２ｆの三角断面ポリエステルの延伸糸（ブライト）を得た。得られた延伸糸をスクラッグ社のＤＣＳ１２００機で、糸速７００ｍ／ｍｉｎ、延伸倍率１．０５、温度２００℃でフリクション仮撚を施した。撚数を測ったところ６０００Ｔ／Ｍであり、撚係数は２３４００であった。また得られた仮撚加工糸の物性を測定したところ、捲縮率が３２．７％、トルク２７５Ｔ／Ｍ、シェイプファクターは１．８であった。なお繊維横断面は、三角断面で鋭角な角を残し変形は少なかった。その後、流体交絡を施し、交絡数は７５個／ｍとした。得られた仮撚加工糸を、経糸および緯糸に用い、経糸密度９０本／２．５４ｃｍ、緯糸密度６６本／２．５４ｃｍに製織した。次いで、解反−ソフサー―プレセット―アルカリ減量（１０％）―染色加工を施して芯地用基布に仕上げた。得られた芯地用基布は、軽量、ソフトで透明性に優れており、表地への寸法追随性もよく、目よれも少なかった。なお得られた結果を表１、２に示す。また、表１、２の経糸・緯糸密度、ＣＦ、目付、厚さは仕上げた際のものである。
(Example 1)
After melting the polyester resin containing titanium dioxide, a stretched yarn (bright) of a triangular cross section polyester of 17 dtex / 12f was obtained by a direct spinning stretching method. The obtained drawn yarn was subjected to friction false twisting with a DCS 1200 machine manufactured by Scragg Co., Ltd. at a yarn speed of 700 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.05, and a temperature of 200 ° C. When the number of twists was measured, it was 6000 T / M, and the twist coefficient was 23400. The physical properties of the obtained false twisted yarn were measured. The crimp rate was 32.7%, the torque was 275 T / M, and the shape factor was 1.8. The fiber cross-section was a triangular cross-section, leaving a sharp angle and little deformation. Thereafter, fluid entanglement was performed, and the number of entanglements was 75 / m. The obtained false twisted yarn was used for warps and wefts and woven to a warp density of 90 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 66 / 2.54 cm. Next, a base fabric for interlining was finished by applying a disaggregation-softer-preset-alkali weight loss (10%)-dyeing process. The obtained base fabric for interlining was lightweight, soft and excellent in transparency, had good dimensional follow-up to the outer material, and was less noticeable. The obtained results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. In Tables 1 and 2, the warp / weft density, CF, basis weight, and thickness are as finished.
（実施例２〜５）
実施例１と同様に仮撚加工糸を得た。その後、経糸密度及び緯糸密度を変更し、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。得られた芯地用基布の結果を、表１に示す。
織物に用いる仮撚加工糸の総繊度を３３ｄｔｅｘ／１２ｆとする以外は、実施例１と同様に仮撚加工を施した。撚数を測ったところ５０００Ｔ／Ｍであり、撚係数は２７０００であった。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
（比較例２）
仮撚条件を温度１８０℃とする以外は、実施例１と同様に仮撚加工を施した。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
（比較例３）
仮撚条件を温度１５０℃とする以外は、実施例１と同様に仮撚加工を施した。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
（比較例４）
流体交絡処理を施さないこと以外は、実施例１と同様に仮撚加工を施した。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
（実施例６）
織物に用いる仮撚加工糸を繊維横断面を丸断面とする以外は、実施例１と同様に仮撚加工を施した。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
（実施例７）
実施例１記載のポリエステル樹脂を溶融紡糸し、丸断面のＰＯＹ（半延伸糸）を得た。得られたＰＯＹをスクラッグ社のＤＣＳ１２００機で、糸速７００ｍ／ｍｉｎ、延伸倍率１．５８として、温度２００℃にて仮撚加工を施した。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
（実施例８）
交絡数を２０個／ｍとする以外は、実施例１と同様に仮撚加工を施した。その後、実施例１と同様に芯地用基布を得た。
(Examples 2 to 5)
A false twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. Thereafter, the warp density and the weft density were changed, and a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The results of the obtained base fabric for interlining are shown in Table 1.
False twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the total fineness of the false twisted yarn used for the woven fabric was 33 dtex / 12f. When the twist number was measured, it was 5000 T / M and the twist coefficient was 27000. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Comparative Example 2)
False twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the false twisting condition was 180 ° C. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Comparative Example 3)
False twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the false twisting condition was 150 ° C. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Comparative Example 4)
False twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fluid entanglement treatment was not performed. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Example 6)
False twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the false twisted yarn used for the woven fabric had a round fiber cross section. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Example 7)
The polyester resin described in Example 1 was melt-spun to obtain a POY (semi-drawn yarn) having a round cross section. The obtained POY was subjected to false twisting at a temperature of 200 ° C. using a DCS 1200 machine manufactured by Scragg Co., Ltd. at a yarn speed of 700 m / min and a draw ratio of 1.58. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Example 8)
False twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of entanglements was 20 / m. Thereafter, a base fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
Claims (8)
8. The method for producing a transparent interlining fabric according to claim 7, wherein the false twisted yarn is woven using at least one of warp and weft to produce an interlining fabric.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2003434090A JP2005188003A (en) | 2003-12-26 | 2003-12-26 | Base cloth for transparent padding and method for producing the same |
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| JP2003434090A JP2005188003A (en) | 2003-12-26 | 2003-12-26 | Base cloth for transparent padding and method for producing the same |
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Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2007186811A (en) * | 2006-01-12 | 2007-07-26 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Thermal-storage interlining cloth |
| JP2007231435A (en) * | 2006-02-28 | 2007-09-13 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Polyester false-twist textured yarn for interlining |
| JP2009235590A (en) * | 2008-03-26 | 2009-10-15 | Toray Ind Inc | Interlining base fabric |
| JP2010018925A (en) * | 2008-07-14 | 2010-01-28 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Finished yarn and woven or knitted fabric made of the same |
| WO2010010938A1 (en) * | 2008-07-24 | 2010-01-28 | Ｋｂセーレン株式会社 | False twist yarn, process for producing the same, and process for producing interlining base fabric from the same |
| WO2010079650A1 (en) * | 2009-01-09 | 2010-07-15 | 東海サーモ株式会社 | Interlining cloth and garment |
| JP2018154941A (en) * | 2017-03-17 | 2018-10-04 | 日清紡テキスタイル株式会社 | Clothing product |
| JP2019206768A (en) * | 2018-05-28 | 2019-12-05 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | Polyester highly crimped textured yarn, woven or knitted fabric, and method for manufacturing polyester highly crimped textured yarn |
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Cited By (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2007186811A (en) * | 2006-01-12 | 2007-07-26 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Thermal-storage interlining cloth |
| JP2007231435A (en) * | 2006-02-28 | 2007-09-13 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Polyester false-twist textured yarn for interlining |
| JP2009235590A (en) * | 2008-03-26 | 2009-10-15 | Toray Ind Inc | Interlining base fabric |
| JP2010018925A (en) * | 2008-07-14 | 2010-01-28 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Finished yarn and woven or knitted fabric made of the same |
| WO2010010938A1 (en) * | 2008-07-24 | 2010-01-28 | Ｋｂセーレン株式会社 | False twist yarn, process for producing the same, and process for producing interlining base fabric from the same |
| JP5669577B2 (en) * | 2008-07-24 | 2015-02-12 | Ｋｂセーレン株式会社 | False twisted yarn, method for producing the same, and method for producing base fabric for interlining using the same |
| WO2010079650A1 (en) * | 2009-01-09 | 2010-07-15 | 東海サーモ株式会社 | Interlining cloth and garment |
| JP2018154941A (en) * | 2017-03-17 | 2018-10-04 | 日清紡テキスタイル株式会社 | Clothing product |
| JP7084694B2 (en) | 2017-03-17 | 2022-06-15 | 日清紡テキスタイル株式会社 | Clothing products |
| JP2019206768A (en) * | 2018-05-28 | 2019-12-05 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | Polyester highly crimped textured yarn, woven or knitted fabric, and method for manufacturing polyester highly crimped textured yarn |
| JP7164971B2 (en) | 2018-05-28 | 2022-11-02 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | Highly crimped polyester yarn, woven and knitted fabric, and method for producing highly crimped polyester yarn |
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