JP2009235590A - Interlining base fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an interlining base fabric especially useful as an ultrathin face side fabric having a weak cloth strength because of being thick and simultaneously having a light weight, high bulkiness, and a high strength. <P>SOLUTION: The interlining base fabric is formed of a woven fabric which uses false-twisted nylon-6,6 filament yarns each having a total fineness of ≤10 dtex as the warps and wefts of the woven fabric, and has a fiber length ratio of 50-70% and a tear strength of ≥5.0, wherein the fiber length is represented by (an apparent fiber length)/(practical fiber length)×100. Preferably, the false-twisted yarns contain 0 to 0.04 wt.% of titanium dioxide. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a high-strength interlining fabric.

Various ideas have been made in pursuit of thinness and transparency as an interlining fabric that supports ultra-thin outer fabrics that have become popular recently. For example, Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2 propose an interlining cloth using fibers having a small total fineness, but an interlining cloth that is woven with a coarse density using thin threads has a low strength and an extremely thin surface. Is not enough to compensate the fabric strength that is sacrificed. With the transparent interlining fabric disclosed in Patent Document 3, it is difficult to control the torque of the false twisted yarn, and it is difficult to stably obtain the interlining fabric. Patent Document 4 proposes an interlining fabric without a moire defect, but a bulky interlining fabric cannot be obtained only by diffusing a single yarn, and lightening has not been sufficiently studied.
JP 10-219542 (Toray application) JP-A-2004-218184 (Toyobo et al.) JP2005-188003 (Kanebo application) Patent 3366418 (Asahi Kasei application)

  An object of the present invention is to provide a high-strength interlining fabric. Since it is thick, it is lightweight, has a high bulk height, and has high strength. Therefore, it is an interlining fabric suitable for an extremely thin surface with particularly low fabric strength.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention has the following configuration.
(1) Nylon 6,6-filament false twisted yarn with a total fineness of 10 dtex or less is used for the warp and weft of the fabric, the yarn length ratio is 50-70%, and the tear strength is 5.0 or more An interlining fabric characterized by comprising a woven fabric.

However, the yarn length ratio is assumed to be apparent yarn length ÷ actual yarn length × 100.
(2) The interlining fabric according to 1 above, wherein the product of the warp density and the weft density of the woven fabric is 10,000 pieces / (2.54 cm) ² or more.
(3) The interlining fabric according to 1 or 2 above, wherein the false twisted yarn contains titanium oxide and the content thereof is 0 to 0.04% by weight.
(4) The interlining fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the bulk height of the woven fabric is 8 or more.

  The bulk height is expressed by the following equation.

Bulk height = {Thickness (mm) ÷ Mass per unit area (g / m ² )} x 1000

  Since the interlining fabric of the present invention is thick and lightweight, it has a high bulk height and high strength, it is an interlining substrate fabric suitable for an ultrathin surface with weak fabric strength. In particular, it can be reinforced with interlining without damaging the surface of extremely thin outer surfaces with large irregularities such as wrinkles, wrinkles and wrinkles. Specifically, when using the outer fabric with the interlining fabric of the present invention adhered to the collar, placket, cuffs, etc. of the clothes, it becomes easier to stop the button because the fabric is bulky, and the discomfort due to the difference in the weight of the sleeve and cuff It becomes difficult to feel. Further, the fabric can be prevented from being torn when the button is pulled by wearing or washing.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  The interlining fabric of the present invention uses a false twisted yarn of nylon 6,6 having a total fineness of 10 dtex or less for warp and weft of the fabric, and the apparent yarn length is 50 to 70% of the actual yarn length, It consists of the textile fabric characterized by tear strength being 5.0 or more.

  The nylon filament yarn used in the present invention is made of so-called nylon 6,6 obtained by polymerizing adipic acid and hexamethylenediamine, and may contain additives such as a matting agent, a hygroscopic agent and a pigment as necessary. Nylon 6 and 6 have heat resistance equivalent to that of polyester, and the texture is softer than that of polyester. Therefore, nylon 6 and 6 are suitable for the present invention in which the outer material and the core fabric are thermally bonded via an adhesive. Further, since the specific gravity of nylon 6 and 6 is smaller than that of polyester, it is suitable for the present invention pursuing bulkiness. There is no restriction | limiting in the cross-sectional shape of a nylon filament, A round cross section, a polygonal cross section, a multileaf cross section, a hollow cross section etc. can be used.

  As the matting agent, inorganic particles such as titanium oxide can be used. There is no limit to the amount of titanium oxide used, but if the yarn is used in a large amount and has a high degree of whiteness, the surface with the interlining may change to a dull tone. It is preferable to contain 04% by weight. In particular, when a matting agent is not used, a highly transparent thread is obtained, so that there is little change in appearance especially when applied to a light-colored surface.

  The total fineness is 10 dtex or less, more preferably 8 dtex or less, and preferably 1 dtex or more. When the total fineness exceeds 10 dtex, the basis weight becomes heavy, and sufficient bulkiness cannot be obtained. When each single yarn constituting the multifilament is opened, the occupied volume of the yarn is increased and the thickness is increased. In particular, it is preferable that the number of filaments is 3 to 5 because the filaments are easily opened one by one in the woven fabric. When the number of filaments is large, it becomes difficult to open and the bulkiness is deteriorated. On the other hand, when the number is too small, false twisting is difficult to perform. If the total fineness is less than 1 dtex, the yarn is likely to break during false twisting or weaving, and the productivity may deteriorate.

  The nylon filament yarn of the present invention imparts crimps by false twisting. Crimping of the yarn weakens and becomes bulky due to crimping, so that the fabric becomes bulky and the adhesive retainability is also improved. For the false twisting, a known method such as friction false twist, belt nip false twist, pin false twist can be used, and the part to be heat set may be only the twisted part, either the twisted part or the untwisted part, It is preferable to perform a Woolley process in which only the twisted part is heat set because the bulkiness of the yarn obtained is higher than in the bulerial process in which the twisted part and the untwisted part are heat set.

It is preferable to use the above-mentioned nylon filament yarn for warp and weft of a fabric because a bulky fabric can be easily obtained. The warp and weft may be the same type of yarn or different types of yarn, but the use of the same type of yarn is preferable because the physical property balance in the warp and weft directions of the fabric is improved. It is preferable to weave in a structure having many intersections where wefts and wefts intersect, such as weaving, because the strength of the fabric increases. It is preferable that the product of warp density and weft density, which is an index representing the number of intersection points, is 10,000 pieces / 2.54 cm ² or more because fabric strength is easily obtained. More crossing points is large strong fabric increases but decreases the altitude Is Toka be too many, also 50,000 present /2.54 cm ² for the production of the fabric becomes difficult overlaps with threads adjacent less, more preferably 40,000 / 2 .54 cm ² or less is preferable. In order to increase the efficiency of the woven fabric, it is preferable to set the warp density higher than the weft density.

  In a woven structure with many crossing points, the warp and weft floats are small and the thickness of the fabric is difficult to obtain. Therefore, it is important that the apparent yarn length on the interlining fabric is 50 to 70% of the actual yarn length. Here, the apparent yarn length is the length of the yarn on the fabric, and the actual yarn length is the length of the yarn when the yarn is taken out from the fabric and stretched. When weaving warp and weft loosely, the fabric becomes bulky and the fabric strength becomes stronger.

  In order to create such an interlining fabric, it is preferable that tension is not applied to the woven fabric and dyeing as much as possible. In the weaving process, an air jet loom is used, and a weft is made with a weak tension into a beam that has been warped with a weak tension. In the dyeing process, scouring and dyeing are performed so that no tension is applied in the warp direction. In the set and finish set, a desired interlining fabric can be obtained by finishing while feeding without applying tension in the width direction.

  In the dyeing process, a dye may or may not be used. If no dye is used, a translucent interlining base fabric having a transparent feeling can be obtained. Translucent interlining fabrics show almost no color change on the surface even when combined with light-colored surface materials such as white and beige. While the conventional interlining fabric is dyed in colors that match the outer, deep, medium, and light colors, the interlining fabric of the present invention can be used with a single type of translucent interlining substrate for the light-colored outer fabric. Therefore, the dyeing process can be omitted and the number of stocks can be reduced, which is commercially preferable. In addition, it is preferable to apply a water repellent in the finishing set to obtain a water repellent finish.

  In order to make the apparent yarn length of warp and weft 50 to 70% of the actual yarn length, the balance between the green machine density and the finishing density is important. In general, the finishing density is higher than the green density because the yarn shrinks due to heat and water fringing in the dyeing process, or the fabric swells and the weave crimp increases. When it is 4 times or more, the interlining fabric of the present invention is easily obtained. An example of calculation is given below.

  (1) Since the number of warp yarns of the woven fabric is unchanged, the fabric width and density are in an inversely proportional relationship. When the finishing density is 1.4 times the raw machinery density, the fabric width is reduced by 1 / 1.4 = 0.71 times. .

  (2) Assuming that the weft in the raw machine has the same length as the fabric width, the length is apparently reduced by 0.71 times after finishing, and becomes 71% of the actual yarn length.

  The interlining fabric having such a configuration has a tear strength of 5.0 N or more, and is a high value as a woven fabric using yarns having a total fineness of 10 dtex or less.

  In the present invention, the bulk height is preferably 8 or more from the viewpoint of not impairing the surface feeling when bonded to an extremely thin surface with large irregularities. The bulk height is calculated by the following formula consisting of the thickness of the fabric and the mass per unit area.

Bulk height = thickness (mm) ÷ mass per unit area (g / m ² ) x 1000
Thickness and mass per unit area are often proportional and it is often difficult to increase the bulk height, but in the present invention, as a result of intensive studies, warps and wefts with crimps are loose and open. It is arranged in the fabric to increase the thickness. It is more difficult to reduce the mass per unit area, and the fabric density cannot be made too coarse to maintain the fabric strength, and it is effective to reduce the total fineness of the yarn or use a yarn with a low specific gravity. By these devices, an interlining fabric having a bulk height of 8 or more can be obtained.

  Adhesive interlining can be obtained from interlining fabrics by using a thermoplastic resin powder as an adhesive and spraying dots on one side of the interlining fabric in a dot-like manner, or using an aqueous solution of thermoplastic resin on one side of the interlining fabric. The method of spraying and heat-treating is preferably used. In the latter method, it is preferable to make the interlining fabric with a water-repellent finish because the aqueous solution of the thermoplastic resin can be efficiently retained in the interlining substrate form, so that the productivity is good. The surface to which the adhesive is applied may be single-sided or double-sided, and in the case of both sides, the step of applying to one side may be performed twice to apply the adhesive to both sides.

  The yarn density of the interlining fabric of the present invention is measured by a tapered densimeter using interference fringes. For this reason, when the interlining fabric is combined with an outer fabric having a close weaving density, moire which is an interference fringe is generated due to adhesion. Therefore, it is preferable to select an interlining fabric having a weaving density that is not close to the weaving density of the outer fabric.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. When there was no notice in particular, it measured about the interlining base fabric after dyeing processing.
<Fine fineness and number of filaments>
The warp and weft were measured based on JIS L1096 and L1013.
<Yarn form observation>
Small pieces cut with a sharp blade in the warp and weft directions of the fabric were observed with an electron microscope, the cross-sectional shapes of the warp and weft were observed, and the opening state of the single yarns constituting the multifilament was observed.
<Titanium oxide content of yarn>
The warp and weft were measured based on JIS L1013.
<Thread torque>
Take a warp from the fabric, hold it in both hands, hang a V-shaped wire and pull the yarn, then join both hands to make the yarn V-shaped and observe whether the wire rotates, and check whether the yarn has torque I see. If the wire rotates, the Woolley yarn with the torque remaining in the yarn is used.
<Organization>
The determination was made based on JIS L1096.
<Density of fabric>
Based on JIS L1096, the density of the raw machine and the dyed product was measured.
<Yarn length ratio>
Along the warp and weft of the woven fabric, marks are made at intervals of 10 cm to obtain an apparent yarn length, and the warp and weft are taken out. Pull both sides of the mark with your hand until the thread stretches smoothly and measure the distance of the mark as the actual thread length.

  The apparent yarn length is divided by the actual yarn length, and 100 is displayed as a percentage.

The yarn length ratio was calculated for warp and weft yarns, and the average value was taken as the yarn length ratio of the fabric.
<Thickness>
It measured based on JIS L1096.
<Mass per unit area>
It measured based on JIS L1096.
<High altitude>
The following formula was used for calculation.

{Thickness (mm) / mass per unit area (g / m ² )} × 1000 = bulk height (cm ³ / g)
<Tearing strength>
The warp direction and the weft direction were measured based on JIS L1096 (penjuram method), and the smaller number was defined as the tear strength of the fabric.
<Evaluation after adhesion with outer material>
As a surface material, a 100% polyester Sayanagi georgette crepe was prepared. The tear strength of this dough was 5.6N.

An interlining fabric provided with an adhesive was prepared as an adhesive interlining, and adhered to the outer surface to evaluate changes in appearance such as surface feel, color tone, and back-through of the adhesive. Next, a long-sleeved blouse with a button on the front perforated part and both cuffs, using an outer part with an adhesive interlining for the collar, placket, and cuffs, and an outer part with no interlining Was sewn. Adult women wore this blouse as a monitor and performed office work indoors to evaluate comfort. Then, washing and drying were performed on a fully automatic course using a drum-type washing and drying machine without using a net, and the appearance was evaluated.
Example 1
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 8 dtex and 5 filaments to obtain wooly processed yarns. Using this yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave fabric was made by an air jet loom. The raw machine had a warp density of 101 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 / 2.54 cm. This raw machine was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, dyeing, and finishing set, and finished into a black woven fabric having a warp density of 136 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 85 / 2.54 cm, which was used as an interlining fabric. Table 1 shows the yarn length ratio, thickness, mass per unit area, bulk height, and tear strength of this interlining fabric. Further, when the fiber surface was observed with an electron microscope, portions where the multifilament was opened and completely opened into 5 single fibers were found in the warp and the weft.

  An adhesive interlining was prepared by placing the adhesive on one side of this interlining base fabric in the form of dots, and the adhesive interlining was adhered to a black zelkova georgette crepe to evaluate the appearance and physical properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The surface of the surface bonded to the adhesive interlining showed a wrinkle-like texture as it was, there was no change in the surface feeling due to adhesion, the color tone was the same as before adhesion, and there was no breakthrough of the adhesive.

Next, a long sleeve blouse was sewn and a monitor test was conducted to evaluate the comfort. It was light and comfortable to wear, and there was no particular hindrance. The blouse after wearing was washed with a washing dryer, and the appearance and physical properties were evaluated. There was no shape loss of the interlining used part, and there was no peeling of the interlining or damage to the fabric.
Example 2
The same wooly processed yarn as in Example 1 was used, and a plain fabric was produced using an air jet loom by using this yarn for warp and weft. The raw machine had a warp density of 118 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 / 2.54 cm. This raw machine was scoured and finished, and finished into a woven fabric having a warp density of 156 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 90 / 2.54 cm, which was used as a core fabric. Table 1 shows various physical properties of the interlining fabric. Further, when the fiber surface was observed with an electron microscope, portions where the multifilament was opened and completely opened into 5 single fibers were found in the warp and the weft.

  An adhesive interlining was prepared by placing an adhesive on one side of this interlining base fabric in a dot-like manner, and was adhered to a light blue blue yanagi georgette crepe to evaluate the appearance and physical properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The surface of the surface bonded to the adhesive interlining showed a wrinkle-like texture as it was, and there was no change in surface appearance or color due to adhesion, and there was no breakthrough of the adhesive.

Next, a long sleeve blouse was sewn and a monitor test was conducted to evaluate the comfort. It was light and comfortable to wear, and there was no particular hindrance. The blouse after wearing was washed with a washing dryer, and the appearance and physical properties were evaluated. There was no shape loss of the interlining used part, and there was no peeling of the interlining or damage to the fabric.
Example 3
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 8 dtex and 5 filaments to obtain wooly processed yarns. Using this yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave fabric was made by an air jet loom. The raw machine had a warp density of 142 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 105 / 2.54 cm. This raw machine was scoured and finished, and finished into a woven fabric having a warp density of 191 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 132 / 2.54 cm, which was used as a core fabric. Table 1 shows the yarn length ratio, thickness, mass per unit area, bulk height, and tear strength of this interlining fabric. Further, when the fiber surface was observed with an electron microscope, portions where the multifilament was opened and completely opened into 5 single fibers were found in the warp and the weft.

  An adhesive interlining was prepared by placing an adhesive on one side of this interlining base fabric in a dot-like manner, and was adhered to a light blue blue yanagi georgette crepe to evaluate the appearance and physical properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The outer material bonded to the adhesive interlining had a wrinkle-like texture standing as it was, there was no color change, and there was no breakthrough of the adhesive.

Next, a long sleeve blouse was sewn and a monitor test was conducted to evaluate the comfort. It was light and comfortable to wear, and there was no particular hindrance. The blouse after wearing was washed with a washing dryer, and the appearance and physical properties were evaluated. There was no shape loss of the interlining used part, and there was no peeling of the interlining or damage to the fabric.
Comparative Example 1
The raw machine of Example 1 was subjected to scouring, intermediate setting, dyeing and finishing set to finish a black fabric with warp density of 119 / 2.54 cm and weft density of 84 / 2.54 cm, which was used as a core fabric. . Table 1 shows the yarn length ratio, thickness, mass per unit area, bulk height, and tear strength of this interlining fabric. Also, when the surface of the fiber is observed with an electron microscope, the part where the multifilaments are opened and opened into five single fibers can be seen only in the warp, and the weft can be seen in all single pieces although partial opening is seen. There was no portion where the fibers were opened.

  An adhesive interlining was prepared by placing the adhesive on one side of this interlining base fabric in the form of dots, and the adhesive interlining was adhered to a black zelkova georgette crepe to evaluate the appearance and physical properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The outer fabric bonded with the adhesive interlining has a wrinkle-like texture, but the glossiness of the fabric is increased and it looks like an atari. Also, there was a slight breakthrough of the adhesive.

Next, a long sleeve blouse was sewn and a monitor test was conducted to evaluate the comfort. Although it was light and comfortable to wear, the glossiness of the cuffs, placket, and collar was different from the other parts, so it looked strange. Detachment was not a problem. The blouse after wearing was washed with a washing dryer, and the appearance and physical properties were evaluated. There were two places where the fabric around the button was raised and the shape was deformed, and one of them had several pieces of yarn constituting the surface.
Comparative Example 2
The same wooly processed yarn as in Example 1 was used, and a plain fabric was produced using a water jet loom by using this yarn for warp and weft. The raw machine had a warp density of 101 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 85 / 2.54 cm. This raw machine was scoured and finished, and finished into a woven fabric with a warp density of 110 / 2.54 centimeters and a weft density of 85 / 2.54 centimeters. Table 1 shows various physical properties of the interlining fabric. Also, when observing the fiber surface with an electron microscope, the multifilament has many convergent parts, and there are parts that are partially opened, but there are no parts where all the single fibers are opened apart. .

An adhesive interlining was prepared by placing the adhesive on one side of this interlining base fabric in a dot-like manner, and was adhered to a white Sayagi Georgette crepe to evaluate the appearance and physical properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The surface of the adhesive bonded with the adhesive interlining disappeared from the wrinkle-like texture, and the gloss increased, and the back of the adhesive was large.
Comparative Example 3
Friction false twisting was performed on nylon 6 and 6 multifilaments having a total fineness of 15 dtex and 5 filaments to obtain buleria processed yarn. Using this yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave fabric was made by an air jet loom. The raw machine had a warp density of 68 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 61 / 2.54 cm. This raw machine was scoured and finished, and finished into a woven fabric with a warp density of 98 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 73 / 2.54 cm. Table 1 shows the yarn length ratio, thickness, mass per unit area, bulk height, and tear strength of this interlining fabric. Also, when observing the fiber surface with an electron microscope, the multifilament has many convergent parts, and there are parts that are partially opened, but there are no parts where all the single fibers are opened apart. .

  An adhesive interlining was prepared by placing an adhesive on one side of this interlining base fabric in a dot-like manner, and was adhered to a light blue blue yanagi georgette crepe to evaluate the appearance and physical properties. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. The surface of the surface bonded to the adhesive interlining showed a wrinkle-like texture as it was, and there was no change in the surface feeling due to adhesion, but the color of the surface changed slightly and the adhesive did not show through.

  Next, a long sleeve blouse was sewn and a monitor test was conducted to evaluate the comfort. Due to the thickness of the placket, the silhouette was uneven and the cuffs were slightly heavy. Detachment was not particularly troublesome. The blouse after wearing was washed with a washing dryer, and the appearance and physical properties were evaluated. There was no shape loss of the interlining used part, and there was no peeling of the interlining or damage to the fabric.

Claims (4)

A nylon 6,6-filament false twisted yarn having a total fineness of 10 dtex or less is used for the warp and weft of the fabric, the yarn length ratio is 50 to 70%, and the tear strength is 5.0 or more. Interlining fabric characterized by that.
However, the yarn length ratio is assumed to be apparent yarn length ÷ actual yarn length × 100. 2. The interlining fabric according to claim 1, wherein a product of the warp density and the weft density of the woven fabric is 10,000 pieces / (2.54 cm) ² or more. The interlining fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the false twisted yarn contains titanium oxide, and the content thereof is 0 to 0.04% by weight. The interlining fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a bulk height of the woven fabric is 8 or more.
The bulk height is expressed by the following equation.
Bulk height = {Thickness (mm) ÷ Mass per unit area (g / m ² )} x 1000