JP3103022B2 - Interlining fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric for interlining, which is less likely to generate Moire fringes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, interlining has been used in the manufacture of clothes from the viewpoints of formability, texture adjustment, ease of sewing, and the like.

The most important performance required for interlining is that it can sufficiently follow the dimensional change of the surface material. To satisfy such performance, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937.
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Publication No. H11-264, a woven fabric interlining is proposed in which false twisted yarns having a total crimp ratio of 15 to 40% are used for the warp and the weft and the dimensional followability to the surface material is improved.

[0004] However, recently, the material (outer fabric) for clothes has become thinner and more easily transparent, and if a textile interlining made of a conventional false-twisted yarn is used for such an easily transparent outer fabric, the outer material of the outer fabric is reduced. The weaving yarn and the weaving yarn of the interlining interfere with each other, and a pattern called Moire fringe appears. In particular, this phenomenon is remarkable in an adhesive interlining.

[0005] These moiré stripes are extremely unpleasant in the appearance of clothes, and have become a major problem in the sewing industry.

[0006] As an interlining for preventing the occurrence of moiré fringes, a nonwoven interlining having no woven structure is known.
Nonwoven fabric interlining has a drawback that the texture of the surface material may be impaired because the deformation due to external force is large.

[0007] As a method of preventing moiré stripes in a woven fabric interlining, a method of using a twill structure or a satin structure with a reduced number of texture points, or a pear texture with a randomized texture point is known.

However, in these methods, the moire fringe preventing effect is actually small and the number of texture points is small.
There is a drawback that the curling (phenomenon in which the yarn moves) easily occurs, the function of the interlining cannot be sufficiently exhibited, and the weaving cost increases.

Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-88364 discloses that a fabric made of synthetic fiber bulky processed yarn is subjected to a relaxation treatment so that the weave structure is not evident, thereby preventing generation of moire fringes. Textile interlinings have been proposed. However, the woven fabric interlining has very little moiré fringe prevention effect, and is not practical.

As described above, a woven fabric interlining capable of actually preventing the occurrence of moiré fringes has not been known so far, and when it is absolutely necessary to prevent moiré fringes, the woven fabric is cut obliquely and used. I have.

However, this method has a problem that the sewing operation is extremely complicated and costly, and the direction of deformation due to external force is different from that of the outer material, so that the feeling of the outer material changes greatly.

[0012]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art, to prevent the occurrence of moire fringes at a low cost, and to prevent the texture of the surface material from being impaired. An object of the present invention is to provide a local textile.

[0013]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, the warp and / or the weft constituting the interlining fabric are crimped between single yarns. It has been found that a crimped yarn having a large variation in (bending) may be used, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, according to the present invention, (1) in an interlining fabric woven with a warp and a weft consisting of crimped yarns, three adjacent three pieces cut out at a fabric length of 5 cm in the warp direction of the fabric. And / or the standard deviation of the length of the single fibers in all the single fibers constituting the warp and / or the single fibers in all the single fibers constituting the three adjacent wefts cut at a fabric length of 5 cm in the weft direction of the fabric. A fabric for interlining, wherein the standard deviation value of the fiber length is in the range of 0.9 to 6.0, (2) the total fineness of the warp and the weft is 10 to 100 denier, respectively. (1) An interlining fabric according to (1) is provided.

The crimped yarn used for the warp and weft of the interlining fabric of the present invention is a yarn composed of a crimped (bent) single fiber, and is a polyester fiber, a polyamide fiber, a polyacrylonitrile fiber. Examples thereof include crimped yarns that have been subjected to false twisting, airflow processing, and rubbing, and conjugate crimped yarns. Among them, polyester false twisted yarn is most preferably used in terms of manufacturing cost and texture of interlining.

The total fineness of the crimped yarn is 10 to 100.
Preferably, it is denier. If it is less than 10 denier, the yarn strength is weak, and problems such as yarn breakage are liable to occur during weaving and the like, and the production cost is increased.

On the other hand, if the denier exceeds 100 denier, the basis weight and thickness of the interlining become large, and it is not usually used for a thin surface material, but is used exclusively for a hard-to-transparent thick surface material. There is no occurrence and there is no need to apply the invention.

Although the degree of crimp of the crimped yarn used in the present invention is not particularly limited, it is desirable that the higher the degree of crimp, the greater the effect of preventing moire fringes.

Further, in the present invention, the standard deviation value of the length of a single fiber in all the single fibers constituting three adjacent warps cut out at a fabric length of 5 cm in the warp direction of the fabric and / or the fabric The standard deviation value of the single fiber length in all the single fibers constituting three adjacent wefts cut out at a woven length of 5 cm in the weft direction must be within the range of 0.9 to 6.0. And particularly preferably in the range of 1.5 to 4.5.

In the present invention, it is sufficient that at least one of the warp and the weft satisfies the standard deviation value. In particular, both the warp and the weft satisfy the above standard deviation value. It is preferable in preventing stripes.

Here, the method of obtaining the standard deviation value in the present invention will be described for the case of a warp. First, as shown in FIG. 1, two parallel lines La and Lb perpendicular to the directions of the warps W1 to W5 are drawn on the interlining fabric sample at an interval of 5 cm. Next, three adjacent warps, for example, W2, W3, and W4 are cut off by the two parallel lines La and Lb.

The three warps W2, W3, W
4 is separated into single fibers, a load of 0.1 g / denier is applied to each single fiber, and the length is measured (in mm).

Using the measured values obtained, JIS-L-1
The standard deviation value of the single fiber length is determined by the following equation described in Reference of No. 096.

[0024]

(Equation 1)

In the case of a weft, two parallel lines Lc and Ld perpendicular to the directions of the wefts F1 to F5 are drawn, and three adjacent wefts cut by the two parallel lines Lc and Ld, for example, F
For 2, F3 and F4, the standard deviation value of the single fiber length is similarly obtained.

Here, the length of the single fiber indicates the degree of crimping (bending) of the single fiber, and the fact that this length is long means that the crimping (bending) is large or large. Indicates that Therefore, if the standard deviation value of the lengths of the single fibers is large, the variation in the crimp (bend) between the single fibers is large.

If the standard deviation is less than 0.9, the crimp is uniform and there is no effect of preventing Moire fringes, so that the object of the present invention cannot be achieved. Conversely, if this standard deviation value exceeds 6.0, the variation in crimp is too large,
The interlining surface is disturbed and the appearance deteriorates, and the interlining cannot be used as an interlining.

The crimped yarn used in the present invention can be produced by various conventionally known methods. In particular, in the false twisting of the spindle system or the friction roller system, the heating time is reduced and the heating temperature is reduced. Can be easily manufactured by performing false twisting with a higher value.

The heating temperature and the heating time may be appropriately set according to the fineness of the yarn to be used and the like. Specifically, the heating temperature is 200 to 250 ° C., and the heating time is 0.01 to 0.
A preferable example is about one second.

Examples of the woven structure of the interlining fabric of the present invention include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and satin weave. In addition, the weaving density is not particularly limited, but it is desirable that the weaving density be high as long as the texture is not deteriorated, in order to prevent Moire fringes.

The interlining fabric of the present invention is usually used by coating a thermoplastic resin on one side. As the thermoplastic resin, a polyamide resin, a polyethylene resin, an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer resin, or the like is suitable, and the coating method is preferably a single dot shape, a double dot shape, a mesh shape, or the like.

The woven fabric for an interlining according to the present invention comprises an adhesive interlining,
It may be used for either non-adhesive interlining or temporary adhering interlining, but it is preferable to use it as an adhering interlining, in which moiré stripes are easily generated, since the effects of the present invention are remarkably exhibited.

[0033]

The moiré fringe is an interference phenomenon that occurs when the gap between the interweaving yarns of the outer fabric and the interwoven weaving space of the interlining intersect periodically.

In the woven fabric for an interlining material according to the present invention, the crimp variation between the single fibers of the woven yarns (warp and weft) is large, so that the voids between the woven yarns are randomized by the so-called "fluff" of the single fibers. Therefore, when superimposed with the outer material, even if the inter-woven yarn voids of the outer material are uniform and periodic, they do not overlap with the random inter-woven yarn voids of the interlining with periodicity, and the occurrence of moire fringes occurs. It is prevented.

In the false twisting process of the spindle type or the friction roller type, by shortening the heating time and increasing the heating temperature to perform the false twisting process, the variation in crimp between the single fibers is large, and The reason why a crimped yarn that produces
It is considered that since the heat setting of the twist is performed in a short time, the heating efficiency is different between the inside and the outside of the yarn, and unevenness of the crimp occurs between the single fibers constituting the yarn.

[0036]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The presence or absence of moiré stripes in the examples and the appearance of the interlining were measured by the following methods.

(1) Presence or absence of moiré stripes A polyamide resin was applied in dots on the obtained interlining fabric to obtain a woven interlining, and a georgette surface material (warp density: 35 / cm, weft density: 40) / Cm), and the presence or absence of interference fringes was measured. A very good one having no interference fringes (moire fringes) was observed.
A sample having no practical problem was indicated by ○, and a sample having noticeable interference fringes (moire fringes) was indicated by ×.

(2) Appearance of interlining The woven interlining obtained was visually observed for disturbance of the interlining surface, and those without disturbance were evaluated as “good”, and those with disturbance and poor appearance were evaluated as “poor”. did.

[Example 1] A polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn (50 denier / 12 filaments) spun at a spinning speed of 1100 m / min using a false twisting device equipped with a heater having a length of 15 cm, and the temperature of the heater was measured. At 220 ° C., a winding speed of 400 m / min, and a stretching ratio of 2.5
It was doubled and subjected to simultaneous false twisting.

The false twisting device 8 used was a triaxial friction type disk type false twisting device, and the peripheral speed of the disk was 800 m / min.

The obtained crimped yarn (20 denier / 12
After weaving using the filaments) for the warp and the weft, relaxation, dyeing, and finishing were performed to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 53 yarns / cm and a weft yarn density of 55 yarns / cm.

A standard deviation value of the lengths of single fibers constituting three adjacent warps cut out at a woven fabric length of 5 cm in the warp direction of the woven fabric and a woven fabric length of 5 cm in the weft direction of the woven fabric were cut out. The standard deviation values of the lengths of the single fibers constituting the three adjacent wefts were 1.8 and 1.9, respectively.

A polyamide resin is applied to the woven fabric in the form of dots to form a woven fabric interlining, which is adhered to the outer surface of a georgette (warp density: 35 yarns / cm, weft yarn density: 40 yarns / cm). Was examined. The presence or absence of moire stripes in the obtained woven interlining was excellent, and the appearance of the woven interlining was good.

[Comparative Example 1]
A crimped yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 0 cm heater was used and the temperature of the heater was set to 180 ° C. A woven interlining was woven under the same conditions.

The standard deviation value of the length of the single fiber of the warp and the standard deviation value of the length of the single fiber of the weft of the obtained woven fabric are 0.5 and 0.7, respectively. Although it was good, moiré fringes like an annual ring were recognized, and the presence or absence of moiré fringes was x.

[Examples 2 to 5, Comparative Examples 2 and 3]
In the above, the length and temperature of the heater were changed as shown in Table 1, and other conditions were the same as in Example 1 to prepare a crimped yarn, and this crimped yarn was used for warp and weft. The woven fabric interlining was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1.

The results are as shown in Table 1. When the standard deviation of the lengths of the single fibers of the warp and the weft is in the range of 0.9 to 6.0 (Examples 2 to 5), No moiré fringes are observed, and the appearance of the woven fabric interlining is good. However, when the standard deviation is smaller than 0.9 (Comparative Example 2), moiré fringes are observed and exceed 6.0 ( In Comparative Example 3), the surface of the interlining was disordered, and the appearance was poor.

[0048]

[Table 1]

Example 6 The crimped yarn used in Example 1 was used for the warp, and the crimped yarn used in Comparative Example 1 was used for the weft. A local fabric was woven.

The standard deviation of the single fiber length of the warp of the obtained woven fabric is 1.9, the standard deviation of the single fiber length of the weft is 0.6, the presence or absence of moire fringes is 、, and the appearance of the woven fabric interlining Was good.

[0051]

As described above, according to the interlining fabric of the present invention, since the crimp variation between the single fibers of the woven yarn (warp and / or weft) is large, the void between the woven yarns is randomized, The generation of moiré stripes can be prevented, and the appearance of the woven fabric interlining is good.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged plan view of a woven fabric schematically shown for explaining a lining fabric of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 W1 to W5 Warp F1 to F5 Weft La, Lb Two parallel lines perpendicular to the warp direction Lc, Ld Two parallel lines perpendicular to the weft direction

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. An interlining fabric woven with a warp and a weft consisting of a crimped yarn, all the single fibers constituting three adjacent warps cut out at a fabric length of 5 cm in the warp direction of the fabric. The standard deviation value of the single fiber length and / or the standard deviation value of the single fiber length in all the single fibers constituting three adjacent wefts cut out at a fabric length of 5 cm in the weft direction of the woven fabric, A woven fabric for interlining, which is in the range of 0.9 to 6.0. 2. The warp and the weft have a total fineness of 10
2. The interlining fabric according to claim 1, wherein the denier is from 100 to 100 denier.