JP2010047848A - Woven interlining cloth and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven interlining cloth that solves a moire without requiring a specific process to disturb a weave texture and a method for producing the same. <P>SOLUTION: The woven interlining cloth is obtained by heat-treating a union cloth, in which two or more kinds of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage percentages at any temperature (T°C) within the range of 160-200°C are subjected to mixed weaving in at least one of warp and weft, at the temperature (T°C) so as to thermally shrink the fiber yarn having the higher heat shrinkage percentage. Preferably a low-shrinkage fiber yarn and a high-shrinkage yarn are subjected to mixed weaving in at least one of the warp and weft. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a textile interlining used for sewing men's clothing and women's clothing, and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven fabric that eliminates moire without requiring a special process that disturbs the woven structure, and a method for manufacturing the same.

  Traditionally, woven interlining has been used for sewing men's and ladies' clothing, but since the woven interlining has a regular woven structure, when it is overlapped with the outer surface, their period There is a problem that a stripe pattern (moire) occurs due to the interference.

  As a technique for suppressing the occurrence of such moire, the crimped false twisted yarn of polyamide non-twisted yarn in which the total yarn denier does not exceed 30 denier and the single yarn denier does not exceed 3 denier is used as warp and weft. And the single yarn diffusion in the weft direction of the warp yarn of the base fabric constituent yarn after finishing is 5.0 to 13.5 times the single yarn diameter of the constituent yarn, and in the warp direction of the weft yarn A woven fabric interlining has been proposed in which single yarn diffusion is 5.0 to 19.0 times the single yarn diameter of the constituent yarn (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

  However, in the fabric interlining described in Patent Document 1, even if the single yarn diffusion of the warp and weft is expanded, the regularity of the woven structure of the fabric is not lost. There was a thing.

  On the other hand, as another technique for suppressing the generation of moire, polyester multifilament crimped yarns having a single fiber fineness of 20 denier or more and 75 denier or less made of polyester filaments of 1.5 denier or less are used for warp and / or weft. The warp and / or the weft are made of a woven fabric having a width of 0.3 to 3 mm and a pitch of 0.3 to 5 mm when viewed from a direction perpendicular to the woven fabric. An adhesive interlining has also been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 2).

However, in the case of the technique described in Patent Document 2, there is a problem that special equipment for fluid ejection and an intermediate processing step are required, and an increase in cost cannot be avoided.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-258938 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-67752

  The present invention has been made in view of the above-described technical problems, and aims to provide a woven fabric core that eliminates moire and a method for manufacturing the same without requiring a special process that disturbs the woven structure. is there.

  In order to achieve the above object, the inventions of claims 1 to 7 are characterized in that two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.) are warp yarn and Abstract: A woven fabric interlining characterized by heat-shrinking a fiber yarn having a high thermal shrinkage rate by heat-treating a woven fabric woven in at least one of the wefts at the temperature (T ° C). It is what.

  The invention according to claims 8 and 9 is characterized in that two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.) are woven into at least one of warp and weft yarns. A method for producing a woven fabric is characterized in that the unwoven fabric is woven, and then the unwoven fabric is heat-treated at the temperature (T ° C.) to thermally shrink the fiber yarn having a high thermal shrinkage rate. It is a summary.

  In the textile interlining of this invention and its manufacturing method, since it has the said structure, there exists an effect that a moire can be eliminated, without requiring the special process which disturbs a woven structure.

  Hereinafter, the textile interlining of the present invention (hereinafter simply referred to as interlining) and the production method thereof will be described in more detail. In addition, the manufacturing method of the interlining of this invention is demonstrated together in description of an interlining. The interlining of the present invention is composed of a woven fabric having a structure similar to that of a woven fabric having a regular woven structure in which fiber yarns conventionally used for a woven interlining. A plain weave is preferable as the woven structure of the interwoven fabric.

  Although it does not specifically limit as a fiber yarn which comprises a woven fabric, For example, a filament yarn and a spun yarn are applicable. As the filament yarn, a twisted yarn or a non-twisted yarn can be used, and the filament yarn can be composed of a plurality of filament yarns. Specifically, 3 to 30 filament yarns having a fineness of 8 to 30 dtex can be bundled and twisted as necessary, and a fiber yarn having an overall fineness of 50 to 300 dtex can be used.

  The material of the fiber yarn constituting the unwoven fabric is not particularly limited. For example, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide fibers such as nylon 6 (registered trademark) and nylon 66 (registered trademark), polyethylene, and polypropylene Fibers such as polyolefin fibers such as, acrylic fibers such as polyacrylonitrile, synthetic fibers such as polyvinyl alcohol fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon, natural fibers such as cotton, etc. can be applied singly or in combination. .

  Since at least one of the warp and the weft constituting this union fabric is interwoven with two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C (T ° C). is there. The two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates include, for example, a low shrinkage fiber yarn made of low shrinkage fibers having a heat shrinkage rate of 1 to 5% at 185 ° C, and a heat shrinkage rate of 3 to 185 ° C. The thing which consists of a highly shrinkable fiber thread | yarn which consists of a 25% highly shrinkable fiber can be mentioned. In this case, the heat-shrinkage of the unwoven fabric at 185 ° C. causes the high-shrinkable fibers of the high-shrinkable fiber yarns to thermally shrink, and the low-shrinkable fiber yarns and non-heat-shrinkable fibers made of low-shrinkable fibers having a low heat shrinkage rate Irregular wrinkles will occur on the yarn. Thereby, the regularity of the union woven fabric is impaired, and a moire preventing effect is produced.

  For example, in the interlining shown in FIG. 1, the high-shrinkage fiber yarns are woven into weft yarns, and the low-shrinkage fiber yarns are woven into warp yarns. It is a thing. As shown in FIG. 1, the heat shrinkage of the high shrinkage fiber yarn causes wrinkles on the low shrinkage fiber yarn, which impairs the regularity of the unwoven fabric. In the unwoven fabric shown in FIG. 2, since the fiber yarns having the same heat shrinkage rate are unwoven, even if heat treatment is performed, the regularity of the unwoven fabric is not impaired, and moire occurs.

  The union woven fabric is formed by interweaving at least one of warp and weft yarns with one kind of low shrinkage fiber yarn made of low shrinkage fiber and one kind of high shrinkage fiber yarn made of high shrinkage fiber. Is preferred. Such a form has the advantage that wrinkles are likely to occur in the low shrinkage fiber yarn because the difference in heat shrinkage becomes clear.

  Two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates, which are woven into at least one of the warp and weft yarns constituting the union woven fabric, have, for example, a high shrinkage fiber yarn shrinkage rate at 185 ° C. of 3 to 30%. The difference between the heat shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage fiber yarn and the heat shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage fiber yarn at 185 ° C. is preferably 2 to 25%. When the difference from the heat shrinkage rate is less than 2%, wrinkles are hardly generated, and a sufficient moire prevention effect cannot be obtained. When the difference is more than 25%, the entire interlining may be uneven. Because.

  Specific examples of the two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates include, for example, fiber yarns made of polyethylene terephthalate low-shrinkage fibers and fiber yarns made of polyamide high-shrinkage fibers.

  In the case of a woven fabric in which a low shrinkage fiber yarn made of low shrinkage fiber and a high shrinkage fiber yarn made of high shrinkage fiber are woven in at least one of warp and weft, the number of low shrinkage fiber yarns It is preferable that the ratio of the number of high shrinkage fiber yarns is 1: 1 to 1: 4. If the ratio of the number of low-shrinkage fiber yarns to the number of high-shrinkage fiber yarns is outside the above range, wrinkles due to heat shrinkage will not easily occur, and a sufficient moire prevention effect may not be obtained. .

  The density of two or more types of fiber yarns constituting at least one of the warp and weft yarns of the weaving woven fabric and having different thermal shrinkage at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.) is 80 / inch. Or less, more preferably 70 / inch or less. When the density of fiber yarns that undergo heat shrinkage exceeds 80 yarns / inch, the degree of freedom of the yarn is lost, and wrinkles are less likely to occur in non-heat-shrinkable fiber yarns due to heat shrinkage, ensuring a sufficient moiré prevention effect. There is a risk that it will not be possible. Further, the lower limit of the density of the fiber yarn is preferably 40 pieces / inch or more, and more preferably 50 pieces / inch or more. This is because when the density is less than 40 / inch, the adhesive resin oozes out easily.

The unwoven fabric preferably has a cover factor of 350 to 700. Cover factor (CF value) means the total fineness of the warp is D1 (decitex), the density of the warp is N1 (line / 2.54 cm), the total fineness of the weft is D2 (decitex), and the density of the weft is N2 (end) /2.54 cm), it is a numerical value obtained by (D1) ^1/2 × N1 + (D2) ^1/2 × N2, and is an index for quantifying the state of the fabric vacancy. When the CF value is less than 350, the degree of freedom of the yarn is lost, and it is difficult for wrinkles to occur on the non-heat-shrinkable fiber yarn due to heat shrinkage. When the CF value is more than 700, the adhesive resin is likely to ooze out. Because.

  The heat treatment of the union woven fabric is merely a heat treatment of the union woven fabric obtained by interweaving two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates using a heater, a dryer, a hot roll, etc. In order to allow the unwoven fabric to shrink freely in the direction, for example, a method of placing and processing on a band dryer (belt conveyor type) can also be adopted. Further, in the tenter treatment, heat treatment can be performed while overfeeding while narrowing the width of the unwoven fabric.

  In the case where the interlining of the present invention is used as an adhesive interlining, after the thermal adhesive resin is dot-printed on the union woven fabric, the fiber yarn can be thermally contracted in the drying process. In this case, the adhesive resin can be dried simultaneously with the thermal contraction of the fiber yarn, and a special process for heat treatment is not required, and the production cost can be reduced correspondingly.

  In addition, this invention is not limited to the following Example, It can implement freely in the range described in the claim.

Example 1
15 decitex nylon 66 (registered trademark) every 10 decitex polyester fibers x 12 fiber yarns, and every 18 weft polyester fibers x 9 fiber yarns (low shrinkage fiber yarns). ) Plain weaving using one weft of 5 × fiber yarn (high shrinkage fiber yarn).

Then, the paste which consists of acrylic resin was used for the plain fabric, and it printed in the dot shape with the density of 150 piece / cm < ² >. Subsequently, the polyamide resin powder was sprayed while the dots made of the acrylic resin were undried and had tackiness.

  Subsequently, the woven fabric subjected to the resin processing is placed on a band dryer (belt conveyor type), and the paste is dried at 185 ° C., and at the same time, the woven fabric is heat-treated so that shrinkage of 4.2% occurs in the width direction. However, the fiber yarn (high-shrinkage fiber yarn) made of nylon 66 (registered trademark) was thermally contracted, wrinkles were generated on the fiber yarn made of polyester fiber, and the moire was eliminated.

The warp density of the obtained interlining was 101 / inch, the density of the weft was 63 / inch, and the cover factor was 618. Incidentally, the deposition density of the acrylic resin of the interlining 2 g / m ^2, the deposition density of the polyamide resin powder is 2.5 g / m ^2, the surface density is 11.7 g / m ^2, a thickness of 0 .12 mm. The thickness of the interlining was the thickness when a load of 20 g / cm ² was applied. Further, the presence or absence of moire was determined by visually checking whether or not moire occurs by overlapping the same interlining.

Example 2
10 decitex polyester fibers x 12 fiber yarns (low shrinkage fiber yarns) every 2 wefts, 15 decitex nylon 66 (registered trademark) fibers x 5 fiber yarns (high shrinkage fiber yarns) An interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a plain weave was used. The resulting interlining was free from moire.

The warp density of the obtained interlining was 101 / inch, the density of the weft was 62 / inch, and the cover factor was 574. The deposition density of the acrylic resin in the interlining is 2 g / m ² , the deposition density of the polyamide resin powder is 2.5 g / m ² , the surface density is 10.9 g / m ² , and the thickness is 0. .11 mm.

Comparative Example 1
An interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that only 10 decitex polyester fibers × 12 fiber yarns were used as wefts and plain weave was used. Moire was generated in the obtained interlining.

The warp density of the obtained interlining was 99 / inch, the density of the weft was 86 / inch, and the cover factor was 616. The deposition density of the acrylic resin in the interlining is 2 g / m ² , the deposition density of the polyamide resin powder is 2.5 g / m ² , the surface density is 10.9 g / m ² , and the thickness is 0. 0.08 mm.

Comparative Example 2
An interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that only 15 decitex polyamide fibers × 5 fiber yarns were used as a weft and plain weave was used. Moire was generated in the obtained interlining.

The warp density of the obtained interlining was 101 / inch, the density of the weft was 83 / inch, and the cover factor was 675. The deposition density of the acrylic resin in the interlining is 2 g / m ² , the deposition density of the polyamide resin powder is 2.5 g / m ² , the surface density is 12.3 g / m ² , and the thickness is 0. .10 mm.

Comparative Example 3
10 decitex polyester fibers x 12 fiber yarns, warp yarns, 18 decitex polyester fibers x 9 fiber yarns every two wefts, 15 decitex nylon 66 (registered trademark) fibers x 1 fiber Plain weaving was performed using one weft of yarn (high shrinkage fiber yarn), and this was used as the interlining.

When the obtained interlining was not heat-treated and the presence or absence of moire was confirmed as it was, moire was generated. The warp density of the obtained interlining was 96 / inch, the density of the weft was 63 / inch, and the cover factor was 601. The interlining density was 10.9 g / m ² and the thickness was 0.08 mm.

Schematic showing the fiber structure of the interlining fabric in which the high-shrinkage fiber yarns are heat-shrinked by heat-treating the high-shrinkage fiber yarns with weft yarns and the low-shrinkage fiber yarns with warp yarns. Figure. The schematic diagram which shows the fiber structure of the interlining by which the fiber yarn with the same thermal contraction rate is interwoven.

Claims (9)

  An unwoven fabric in which two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.) are interwoven in at least one of warp and weft is used for the temperature (T A textile core characterized in that the fiber yarn having a high heat shrinkage rate is thermally shrunk by heat treatment at a temperature of [° C.].   The union woven fabric is formed by interweaving at least one of warp and weft yarns with one kind of low shrinkage fiber yarn made of low shrinkage fiber and one kind of high shrinkage fiber yarn made of high shrinkage fiber. The woven fabric interlining according to claim 1.   The high shrinkage fiber yarn has a heat shrinkage rate at 185 ° C. of 3 to 30%, and the difference between the high shrinkage fiber yarn heat shrinkage rate and the low shrinkage fiber yarn at 185 ° C. is 2 to 25%. The textile interlining according to claim 2, wherein   4. The woven fabric according to claim 2, wherein the ratio of the number of low shrinkage fiber yarns to the number of high shrinkage fiber yarns is 1: 1 to 1: 4.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the low-shrinkage fibers are made of polyethylene terephthalate, and the high-shrinkage fibers are made of polyamide fibers.   The density of two or more types of fiber yarns constituting at least one of the warp and weft yarns of the weaving fabric and having different heat shrinkage at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.) is 80 / inch. The woven fabric interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein:   The cloth interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the cover factor of the union woven fabric is 350 to 700.   Two or more types of fiber yarns having different heat shrinkage rates at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.) are woven into at least one of warp and weft to form a woven fabric, A method for producing a woven fabric, wherein a fiber yarn having a high thermal shrinkage rate is thermally contracted by heat-treating the unwoven fabric at the temperature (T ° C).   A thermal adhesive resin is dot-printed on a woven fabric obtained by interweaving two or more types of fiber yarns having different thermal shrinkage at any temperature in the temperature range of 160 to 200 ° C. (T ° C.). The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 8, wherein the heat-bonding resin is dried at the same time as heat-shrinking the fiber yarn having a high heat shrinkage rate by heat treatment at the temperature (T ° C).

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