JP6164943B2 - Textile for clothing - Google Patents
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- JP6164943B2 JP6164943B2 JP2013123766A JP2013123766A JP6164943B2 JP 6164943 B2 JP6164943 B2 JP 6164943B2 JP 2013123766 A JP2013123766 A JP 2013123766A JP 2013123766 A JP2013123766 A JP 2013123766A JP 6164943 B2 JP6164943 B2 JP 6164943B2
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- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title description 3
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 71
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 claims description 32
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 38
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 14
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 13
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 6
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 5
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 4
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 3
- -1 etc. Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000010014 continuous dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008094 contradictory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000006850 spacer group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、防透性と通気性とを同時に有する経緯二重織物からなる衣料用織物に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a woven fabric for apparel made of a background double woven fabric having both permeation resistance and breathability.
従来から、特に春夏物衣料用途として、清涼性を得るために高い通気性を有する織物が求められている。このような織物として最も一般的には、織り目を粗くした薄い織物が使用されるが、織り目を粗くすると、防透性が低下し、目ズレが生じ易くなり、ハリコシが無くなるなどの課題が発生し、これらの相反する特性を満足させることは困難となっている。 Conventionally, there has been a demand for fabrics having high breathability in order to obtain coolness, particularly for use in clothing for spring and summer. The most commonly used woven fabric is a thin woven fabric with a rough texture. However, when the woven texture is rough, there are problems such as reduced permeation resistance, easy misalignment, and no harshness. However, it is difficult to satisfy these conflicting characteristics.
また、これらの課題を解決するために、絡みタテ糸が１回絡む間にヨコ糸を２本通し、かつ向かい合わせていない左右絡み引き込みである３本以上の特殊絡み織り組織の織物が提案されている（特許文献１参照。）。しかしなから、この提案によれば、織り目の粗い織物においても目ズレの発生は抑えられるが、一層構造の織物（一重織物）であることから、防透性およびハリコシという点では十分な特性を得られていない。更には、絡み織物用織機という特殊な設備が必要となる。 In addition, in order to solve these problems, three or more specially woven fabrics with a tangled texture are proposed, in which two weft yarns are passed through the tangled warp yarn once and the left and right entanglement pulls are not facing each other. (See Patent Document 1). However, according to this proposal, the occurrence of misalignment can be suppressed even in a coarsely woven fabric, but since it is a one-layered fabric (single woven fabric), it has sufficient characteristics in terms of permeation resistance and elasticity. Not obtained. Furthermore, special equipment called a woven fabric loom is required.
また別に、平組織またはツイル織組織とギシャ織組織との二層構造織物が提案されているが（特許文献２参照。）、この提案では、平織組織またはツイル織組織である生地本体と粗いギシャ織組織のスペーサーとを組み合わせた構造であり、防透性や通気性は生地本体部分の構造で決まるものであることから、依然として相反する特性を十分満足させることはできない。 In addition, a two-layer structure fabric of a plain structure or a twill weave structure and a gisha texture structure has been proposed (see Patent Document 2). In this proposal, a fabric body which is a plain weave structure or a twill weave structure and a rough structure are used. Since the structure is combined with a spacer of a woven structure and the permeation resistance and air permeability are determined by the structure of the fabric main body portion, the conflicting characteristics cannot be fully satisfied.
さらに、ポリエステル複合糸と強撚糸を使用した二重織物が提案されている（特許文献３参照。）。この提案のここでの二重織物により、防透性と通気性とを両立させることは可能であるが、通気性を得るために各層のカバーファクター（ＣＦ）を小さくする必要があり、その結果、目ズレが発生するという課題がある。また、強撚糸の使用比率を高くすることにより、目ズレは低下するが、強撚糸の熱処理後の解撚トルクにより生地にシボが発生し、良好な品位が得られないなどの課題がある。また、複合糸、強撚糸という特殊な糸使いによる高コストな織物となっている。 Furthermore, a double woven fabric using a polyester composite yarn and a strong twisted yarn has been proposed (see Patent Document 3). It is possible to achieve both permeability and air permeability by using the double woven fabric here, but it is necessary to reduce the cover factor (CF) of each layer in order to obtain air permeability. There is a problem that eye misalignment occurs. Further, when the use ratio of the strong twisted yarn is increased, the misalignment is reduced, but there is a problem that the fabric is wrinkled by the untwisting torque after the heat treatment of the strong twisted yarn and good quality cannot be obtained. Moreover, it is a high-cost woven fabric by using special yarns such as composite yarns and strong twisted yarns.
そこで本発明の目的は、上記従来の背景技術に鑑み、防透性と通気性とを同時に有し、かつハリコシ感や低目ズレなど、衣料用素材として十分な基本物性と清涼素材特性を兼ね備えた衣料用織物を提供することにある。 Therefore, in view of the above-described conventional background art, the object of the present invention is to have both basic physical properties and refreshing material characteristics sufficient for clothing materials, such as crispness and low misalignment, at the same time. It is to provide a woven fabric for clothing.
本発明は、上記課題を解決せんとするものであって、本発明の衣料用織物は、各層の組織が平織組織からなる経緯二重織物であって、前記各層の平織組織織物の経糸および／または緯糸の少なくとも一部に部分融着仮撚り加工糸が配されてなり、前記各層平織組織織物を固定する接結点の周期は、同一経糸上の緯糸の本数で１０本以上３２本以下で、かつ同一緯糸上の経糸の本数で１０本以上３２本以下であり、かつ前記各層の平織組織織物のカバーファクターが１０００以上１８００以下の衣料用織物である。 The present invention is to solve the above problems, and the garment for clothing of the present invention is a weft double woven fabric in which the structure of each layer is a plain weave structure, and the warp and / or the plain weave fabric of each layer and / or Alternatively, at least a part of the weft yarn is provided with a partially fused false twisted yarn, and the period of the connecting points for fixing the respective plain weave fabrics is 10 or more and 32 or less in the number of wefts on the same warp. And the number of warps on the same weft is 10 or more and 32 or less, and the cover factor of the plain weave fabric of each layer is 1000 or more and 1800 or less.
本発明の衣料用織物の好ましい態様によれば、前記の各層の平織組織織物の経糸と緯糸の空間率は、次の（１）〜（３）の全ての条件を満たすことである。
（１）各層の平織組織織物の経糸の空間率が４０％以上６５％以下、
（２）一層の平織組織織物の緯糸の空間率が５０％以上８０％以下、
（３）もう一層（他層）の平織組織織物の緯糸の空間率が４０％以上７０％以下。
According to a preferred aspect of the woven fabric for clothing of the present invention, the space ratio between the warp and the weft of the plain weave fabric of each layer is to satisfy all the following conditions (1) to (3).
(1) The space ratio of the plain weave fabric of each layer is 40% or more and 65% or less,
(2) The space ratio of the weft of one layer of plain woven fabric is 50% or more and 80% or less,
(3) The weft space ratio of the plain weave fabric of the other layer (other layer) is 40% or more and 70% or less.
本発明の衣料用織物の好ましい態様によれば、前記の経緯二重織物の厚みは３００μｍ以上である。 According to the preferable aspect of the woven fabric for clothing of the present invention, the thickness of the above-described double woven fabric is 300 μm or more.
本発明の衣料用織物の好ましい態様によれば、前記の経緯二重織物の通気度は１４０ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃ以上である。 According to a preferable aspect of the woven fabric for clothing of the present invention, the air permeability of the above-described double woven fabric is 140 cc / cm 2 · sec or more.
本発明によれば、衣料用途の織物、さらに好ましくは春夏物ユニフォーム用途の衣料素材として要求される優れた防透性と通気性を有し、かつ、ハリコシ感や耐目ズレ性などに優れた衣料用織物が得られる。 According to the present invention, it has excellent permeability and breathability required as a clothing material for clothing, more preferably a clothing material for spring / summer uniforms, and is excellent in harshness and misalignment resistance. A woven fabric for clothing is obtained.
本発明の衣料用織物は、各層の組織が平織組織からなる経緯二重織物であって、前記各層の平織組織織物の経糸および／または緯糸の少なくとも一部に部分融着仮撚り加工糸が配されてなり、かつ前記各層の平織組織織物のカバーファクターが１０００以上１８００以下の衣料用織物である。 The woven fabric for clothing of the present invention is a weft double woven fabric in which the structure of each layer is a plain weave structure, and a partially fused false twisted yarn is arranged on at least part of the warp and / or the weft of the plain weave texture of each layer. The woven fabric for clothing has a cover factor of 1000 to 1800 in the plain weave fabric of each layer.
本発明の衣料用織物においては、織物を構成する織組織、カバーファクターおよび構成糸の３点の選択された要件の組み合わせにより、初めて初期の目的とする効果が得られる。次に、これらの要件について、説明する。 In the garment for clothing of the present invention, an initial intended effect can be obtained for the first time by a combination of the three selected requirements of the woven structure, the cover factor, and the constituent yarn constituting the woven fabric. Next, these requirements will be described.
まず、経緯二重織物の二重織組織構造の各層の組織には、平織組織が用いられる。平織組織が最も経糸と緯糸との交錯点が多く、織物構造上安定することから目ズレが発生しにくく、高通気度を得るための低カバーファクターの設計を可能とする。 First, a plain weave structure is used for the structure of each layer of the double weave structure of the background double fabric. The plain weave structure has the most intersections of warps and wefts and is stable in the fabric structure, so that it is less likely to cause misalignment and allows the design of a low cover factor to obtain high air permeability.
次に、本発明の衣料用織物において、経緯二重織物の各層の平織組織織物のカバーファクターは、１０００以上１８００以下である。カバーファクターをこのような範囲にすることによって、防透性と高通気性との相反する特性を得ることが可能となる。 Next, in the woven fabric for clothing of the present invention, the cover factor of the plain woven fabric of each layer of the background double woven fabric is 1000 or more and 1800 or less. By setting the cover factor in such a range, it is possible to obtain contradictory properties between the permeability and the high air permeability.
各層のカバーファクターが１０００より小さい場合は、平織組織であっても防透性が不十分であり、かつ目ズレが大きく、衣料用織物として必要な基本物性を得ることが困難となり、また各層のカバーファクターが１８００より大きい場合は、高通気性を得ることが困難となる。各層の平織組織織物の好ましいカバーファクターは、１２００以上１５００以下である。 When the cover factor of each layer is smaller than 1000, even if it is a plain weave structure, the permeability is insufficient and the misalignment is large, making it difficult to obtain the basic physical properties necessary for a woven fabric for clothing. When the cover factor is larger than 1800, it is difficult to obtain high air permeability. The preferable cover factor of the plain woven fabric of each layer is 1200 or more and 1500 or less.
カバーファクターＣＦとは、下記式により表されるものである。
・ＣＦ＝（ＤＷ）１/２×ＭＷ＋（ＤＦ）１/２×ＭＦ
ただし、ＤＷは経糸総繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）であり、ＭＷは経糸織密度（本／インチ）であり、ＤＦは緯糸総繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）であり、ＭＦは緯糸織密度（本／インチ）である。
The cover factor CF is represented by the following formula.
CF = (DW) 1/2 x MW + (DF) 1/2 x MF
However, DW is the warp total fineness (dtex), MW is the warp weave density (lines / inch), DF is the weft total fineness (dtex), and MF is the weft weave density (lines / inch).
更に、上記のカバーファクターが有効であるためには、経糸および／または緯糸として、部分融着仮撚り加工糸を配することが重要である。この部分融着仮撚り加工糸は、経糸および／または緯糸の少なくとも一部に配され用いられる。ここで、少なくとも一部は、たとえば、部分融着仮撚り加工糸と他の繊維糸とを１本交互配列に並べるなど、部分融着仮撚り加工糸を少なくとも５０％、より好ましくは少なくとも６０％、さらに好ましくは少なくとも８０％として用いることができる。 Furthermore, in order for the above-described cover factor to be effective, it is important to dispose partially fused false twisted yarns as warp yarns and / or weft yarns. This partially fused false twisted yarn is used by being arranged on at least a part of warp and / or weft. Here, at least a part of the partially fused false twisted yarn and another fiber yarn are arranged in an alternating arrangement, for example, the partially fused false twisted yarn is at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%. More preferably, it can be used as at least 80%.
また、他の繊維糸としては、非捲縮合成繊維フィラメント（いわゆる延伸糸）、合成繊維仮撚り加工糸、ポリエステル繊維、綿、ナイロン繊維およびレーヨン等からなる紡績糸、およびエア混繊や複合仮撚りなどの複合加工糸などが挙げられる。 Other fiber yarns include non-crimped synthetic fiber filaments (so-called drawn yarns), synthetic fiber false twisted yarns, spun yarns made of polyester fibers, cotton, nylon fibers, rayon, etc., and air mixed fibers and composite temporary yarns. Composite processed yarns such as twists are listed.
経糸および／または緯糸として、部分融着仮撚り加工糸ではなく、通常の延伸糸、紡績糸、仮撚り糸、エア加工糸、複合糸および紡績糸などを配した場合、上記の範囲のようなカバーファクターの平織組織織物においては目ズレが大きくなるが、本発明のように部分融着仮撚り加工糸を配することによってこのような課題は解決される。 When warp and / or weft is not a partially fused false twisted yarn but a normal drawn yarn, spun yarn, false twisted yarn, air processed yarn, composite yarn, spun yarn, etc., a cover as described above In the plain woven fabric of the factor, the misalignment increases, but such a problem can be solved by arranging the partially fused false twisted yarn as in the present invention.
ここで、本発明で用いられる部分融着仮撚り加工糸とは、仮撚り加工時に加工温度を繊維の融点付近に設定して部分融着させた融着仮撚り加工糸であり、糸軸方向に沿って仮撚り加撚方向の撚りを有する未解撚部と、実質的に撚りの無い開繊部と、仮撚り解撚方向の撚りを有するオーバー解撚部とがランダムに混在する加工糸である。この部分融着仮撚り加工糸においては、仮撚り加撚方向の撚りを有する未解撚部が部分融着されている。 Here, the partially fused false twisted yarn used in the present invention is a fused false twisted yarn that has been partially fused by setting the processing temperature near the melting point of the fiber during false twisting, and in the direction of the yarn axis. A processed yarn in which an untwisted portion having a twist in the false twisting direction, a spread portion having substantially no twist, and an over untwisting portion having a twist in the false twist direction are randomly mixed. It is. In this partially fused false twisted yarn, the untwisted portion having a twist in the false twist direction is partially fused.
部分融着仮撚り加工糸は、マルチフィラメント半延伸糸を、そのマルチフィラメント半延伸糸を構成するポリマーの融点より好ましくは５℃以下から融点までの温度範囲で仮撚り加工することにより得ることができる。融点より僅かに低い温度で仮撚り加工することにより、マルチフィラメントが加撚された状態で融着する部分と融着に至らずに解撚される部分とがランダムに発生する。 The partially fused false twisted yarn can be obtained by false twisting a multifilament semi-drawn yarn in the temperature range from the melting point of the polymer constituting the multifilament semi-drawn yarn, preferably from 5 ° C or lower to the melting point. it can. By performing false twisting at a temperature slightly lower than the melting point, a portion where the multifilament is twisted and a portion where the multifilament is untwisted without being fused are randomly generated.
本発明で用いられる部分融着仮撚り加工糸は、特に融着部分での剛性が向上して糸が変形しにくいことから、糸の変形に伴い発生する目ズレを抑える効果がある。また、融着部分の糸のしまりにより、織物にした際に春夏用衣料素材に適したシャリ感を得ることができる。 The partially fused false twisted yarn used in the present invention has an effect of suppressing misalignment caused by deformation of the yarn because rigidity at the fused portion is particularly improved and the yarn is not easily deformed. In addition, due to the tightness of the yarn at the fused portion, it is possible to obtain a sharp feeling suitable for a spring / summer clothing material when it is made into a woven fabric.
本発明で用いられる部分融着仮撚り加工糸を構成する繊維としては、ポリエステル繊維やポリアミド繊維等の繊維が用いられるが、ポリエステル繊維特に好適に用いられる。また、この部分融着仮撚り加工糸の総繊度は、目的の生地厚みとするためには、好ましくは５０〜３００ｄｔｅｘの範囲であり、より好ましくは５０〜１５０ｄｔｅｘの範囲である。 As the fibers constituting the partially fused false twisted yarn used in the present invention, fibers such as polyester fibers and polyamide fibers are used, and polyester fibers are particularly preferably used. Further, the total fineness of the partially fused false twisted yarn is preferably in the range of 50 to 300 dtex, and more preferably in the range of 50 to 150 dtex in order to obtain the desired fabric thickness.
強撚糸も同様に剛性が向上していることから、部分融着仮撚り加工糸と同じように強撚糸も目ズレを抑える効果やシャリ感の効果を得ることができるが、強撚糸の場合は、染色加工工程における熱履歴によって糸に解撚のトルクが発生し、経糸と緯糸の浮き沈みにより織物生地にシボが発生しやすい。これに対し、部分融着仮撚り加工糸においては、融着部分での解撚のトルクが発生しないために、織物生地にシボは発生しにくく、フラットで良好な表面品位の織物生地を得ることができる。 Similarly, the strength of the twisted yarn is improved, so that the twisted yarn can have the effect of suppressing misalignment and the effect of sharpness in the same way as the partially fused false twisted yarn. The untwisting torque is generated in the yarn by the heat history in the dyeing process, and the fabric is likely to be wrinkled by the ups and downs of the warp and weft. On the other hand, in the partially fused false twisted yarn, since the untwisting torque does not occur at the fused portion, it is difficult for wrinkles to occur in the woven fabric, and a flat and good surface woven fabric can be obtained. Can do.
このような作用から、部分融着仮撚り加工糸を用いることは、強撚糸を用いることとは大きく異なり、低密度で目ズレを発生させず、かつシャリ感を持ちながらシボを発生させずにフラットな表面感を得るという本発明で最も重要な構成要件となる。 Because of these effects, using a partially fused false twisted yarn is significantly different from using a strong twisted yarn, and does not cause misalignment at a low density, and without causing wrinkles while having a sharp feeling. This is the most important component in the present invention for obtaining a flat surface feeling.
本発明の衣料用織物に、更なる防透性、通気性、ハリコシ感および耐目ズレ性を与えるには、経糸および緯糸の空間率を特定の範囲に選定することが有効である。 In order to give the garment for clothing of the present invention further permeation resistance, breathability, harshness and misalignment resistance, it is effective to select the warp and weft space ratios within a specific range.
防透性と通気性との両面を考慮すると、衣料用織物の各層の経糸の空間率は４０％以上６５％以下の範囲にあることが好ましく、より好ましくは４５％以上６５％以下の範囲である。また、経緯二重織物の一層の緯糸の空間率は好ましくは５０％以上８０％以下の範囲にあることが好ましく、より好ましくは６０％以上７５％以下であり、もう一層（他層）の緯糸の空間率は４０％以上７０％以下の範囲であることが好ましく、より好ましくは５０％以上６５％以下である。 Considering both the permeability and the air permeability, the warp space ratio of each layer of the woven fabric for clothing is preferably in the range of 40% to 65%, more preferably in the range of 45% to 65%. is there. Further, the space ratio of one weft of the warp double woven fabric is preferably in the range of 50% to 80%, more preferably 60% to 75%, and the weft of the other layer (the other layer). The space ratio is preferably in the range of 40% to 70%, more preferably 50% to 65%.
空間率が上記数値を超えると、防透性、ハリコシ感および耐目ズレ性が不足し、上記数値に満たないと通気性が不足する傾向を示し、空間率が上記数値を下回ると、織物の空隙が少なくなり通気性が低下する傾向を示す。 When the space ratio exceeds the above numerical value, the permeability, the harshness and the misalignment resistance are insufficient, and when the space ratio is less than the above numerical value, the air permeability tends to be insufficient. The air gap tends to decrease and air permeability tends to decrease.
ここで重要なことは、カバーファクターと空間率との関係である。同一の糸であれば、同じカバーファクターであれば同じ空間率となるが、糸種が異なると、同じカバーファクターであっても空間率は異なる場合がある。例えば、部分融着仮撚り加工糸や強撚糸は、糸が締まっているために総繊度に対して見かけの糸直径が小さくなり、その結果、通常の延伸糸に比較して、空間率が大きくなる。逆に、通常の仮撚り加工糸は、熱処理により捲縮発現し、単糸が開繊するために総繊度に対して見かけの糸直径が大きくなり、その結果、通常の延伸糸と比較し、空間率が小さくなる。そのため、最適な密度設計には、カバーファクターのみならず、実際の空間率が影響する場合がある。 What is important here is the relationship between the cover factor and the space factor. For the same yarn, the same space factor is used for the same cover factor, but for different yarn types, the space factor may be different even for the same cover factor. For example, partially fused false twisted yarn and strong twisted yarn have an apparent yarn diameter that is smaller than the total fineness because the yarn is tightened, and as a result, the space ratio is larger than that of ordinary drawn yarn. Become. On the contrary, the normal false twisted yarn is crimped by heat treatment, the apparent yarn diameter is increased with respect to the total fineness because the single yarn is opened, and as a result, compared with the normal drawn yarn, The space ratio becomes smaller. Therefore, not only the cover factor but also the actual space ratio may affect the optimum density design.
空間率とは、下記式により表されるものである。
・空間率＝（Ｌ−Ｓ）／Ｌ
ただし、Ｌは一定の織物生地幅であり、ＳはＬ内に配置されている各繊維の直径方向の幅の合計であり、顕微鏡などを用いて織物生地表面を、Ｌ＝５ｍｍ程度の範囲を写真撮影し、拡大写真からＬとＳを測定する。
The space ratio is represented by the following formula.
・ Spatial ratio = (LS) / L
However, L is a constant woven fabric width, S is the total width in the diameter direction of each fiber arranged in L, and the surface of the woven fabric is measured using a microscope or the like within a range of about L = 5 mm. Take a picture and measure L and S from the enlarged picture.
本発明においては、織物の経糸および／または緯糸に部分融着仮撚り加工糸を配した上で、目的の効果を損なわない範囲で吸湿性や肌触りの向上を目的として、上述のように、例えば、ポリエステル繊維と綿の紡績糸や、ソフトな風合いを加える目的で通常の仮撚り加工糸を部分的に配することが可能である。このように、部分融着仮撚り加工糸以外の糸を部分的に配した場合は、上記の空間率の範囲に設計することが好ましい。 In the present invention, after arranging the partially fused false twisted yarn on the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric, for the purpose of improving the hygroscopicity and the touch as long as the target effect is not impaired, as described above, for example, It is possible to partially dispose polyester yarn and cotton spun yarn or normal false twisted yarn for the purpose of adding a soft texture. As described above, when a yarn other than the partially fused false twisted yarn is partially arranged, it is preferable to design the yarn within the above-described space rate range.
また、各層の平織組織織物を固定する接結点の周期は、同一経糸上の緯糸の本数で、１０本以上３２本以下であり、好ましくは１６本以上２０本以下であり、かつ同一緯糸上の経糸の本数で、１０本以上３２本以下であり、好ましくは１６本以上２０本以下である。 In addition, the cycle of the connecting points for fixing the plain weave fabric of each layer is 10 or more and 32 or less, preferably 16 or more and 20 or less, and the same weft on the same warp. The number of warp yarns is 10 or more and 32 or less, preferably 16 or more and 20 or less.
このように、接結点を少なくすることによって、各層の間に空気層が形成され、各層の配置がずれ易くなることにより、一層の空隙をもう一層が塞ぐというように、各層が互いに空隙を塞ぎ合い、上記のような低カバーファクター、高空間率の織物であっても優れた防透性を得ることが可能となる。接結点の周期が少なくなればなるほど、各層は互いに固定され、各層の空隙が重なりあうことにより、防透性の劣ったものとなる。接結点の周期は、組織図あるいは現物から数えることができる。 In this way, by reducing the number of connection points, an air layer is formed between the layers, and the arrangement of the layers is easily shifted, so that each layer closes the gap so that one layer closes the other. Even if it is a woven fabric having a low cover factor and a high space ratio as described above, excellent permeation resistance can be obtained. As the cycle of the connection point decreases, the layers are fixed to each other, and the voids of the layers overlap each other, resulting in inferior permeability. The period of the connection point can be counted from the organization chart or the actual product.
さらには、接結点を少なくすることによって各層の間に空気層が形成され、衣料用織物に立体感が生まれ、ハリコシ感や軽量感を持った風合いの優れた衣料用織物となる。接結点が多くなる程通常の一重織物に近くなり、風合いの硬いペーパーライクな素材となる。 Furthermore, by reducing the number of connection points, an air layer is formed between the layers, and a three-dimensional feeling is created in the woven fabric for clothing, resulting in a woven fabric for clothing having a feeling of elasticity and a light feeling. The more the connection points, the closer to a normal single woven fabric, and a paper-like material with a hard texture.
また、本発明の衣料用織物の厚みは、３００μｍ以上であることが好ましい。厚みを３００μｍ以上とすることにより、十分な空気層が形成され、その結果、望ましい防透性、ハリコシ感および軽量感を得ることができる。厚みは、上記のように、衣料用布帛としてのごわつき感の観点から、３００μｍ以上６００μｍ以下であることが好ましく、より好ましくは３００μｍ以上５００μｍ以下である。 The thickness of the woven fabric for clothing of the present invention is preferably 300 μm or more. By setting the thickness to 300 μm or more, a sufficient air layer is formed. As a result, desirable permeation resistance, a feeling of elasticity and a feeling of light weight can be obtained. As described above, the thickness is preferably 300 μm or more and 600 μm or less, more preferably 300 μm or more and 500 μm or less, from the viewpoint of stiff feeling as a clothing fabric.
以上の設計により本発明では、通気度が好ましくは１００ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃ以上、より好ましくは１４０ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃ以上で、防透性、ハリコシ感や耐目ズレ性などに優れた快適な着用感を与える衣料用織物を得ることができる。 In the above the present invention by design, the air permeability of preferably 100cc / cm 2 · sec or more, more preferably 140cc / cm 2 · sec or more, BoTorusei, comfortable with excellent such Harikoshi feeling and耐目deviation of A woven fabric for clothing that gives a feeling of wearing can be obtained.
本発明の衣料用織物は、オフィスユニフォーム、ワーキングユニフォーム、シャツ、およびスポーツ用衣料等に好適に用いられる。 The fabric for clothing of the present invention is suitably used for office uniforms, working uniforms, shirts, sports clothing, and the like.
次に、実施例により本発明の衣料用織物について詳細に説明する。実施例および比較例に示す各特性値は、下記の方法により測定したものである。 Next, the woven fabric for clothing of the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. Each characteristic value shown in the examples and comparative examples is measured by the following method.
（１）通気度
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６（フラジール形通気性試験機法）（２０１１年）により、通気性度（ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃ）を測定した。
(1) Air permeability The air permeability (cc / cm 2 · sec) was measured according to JIS L 1096 (Fragile type air permeability tester method) (2011).
（２）縫い目ズレ
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６（Ｂ法）（２０１１年）により縫い目ズレ（ｍｍ）を測定した。
(2) Seam deviation The seam deviation (mm) was measured according to JIS L 1096 (Method B) (2011).
（３）衣料用織物の厚み
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６（Ａ法）（２０１１年）により、厚みを測定した。
(3) Thickness of woven fabric for clothing The thickness was measured according to JIS L 1096 (Method A) (2011).
[実施例１]
ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントの部分融着仮撚り加工糸（８４ｄｔｅｘ−３６フィラメント）を経糸に用い、同部分融着仮撚り加工糸を表面の緯糸に用い、ポリエステル繊維６５質量％／綿３５質量％からなる３４番手単糸の紡績糸を裏面の緯糸に用い、図１の織物組織に従って、通常のエアジェットルームを用いて、経密度１７９本／インチ、緯密度１０６本／インチ、接結点の周期経１６／緯２０の２重平組織織物を製織した。
[Example 1]
Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament partially fused false twisted yarn (84 dtex-36 filament) is used as a warp, and the partially fused false twisted yarn is used as a weft on the surface. Using a spun yarn of 34th single yarn as the weft on the back surface, and using a normal air jet loom according to the fabric structure of FIG. 1, a warp density of 179 yarns / inch, a weft density of 106 yarns / inch, and a joint warp period A 16/20 weft double woven fabric was woven.
次いで、通常の液流染色仕上げ加工を施し、経密度が１８６本／インチ、緯密度が１１０本／インチの織物を得た。この際のカバーファクターは、表面の層が１３５６で、裏面の層が１５４０であり、各層の経糸の空間率は５３％、表面の緯糸の空間率は７３％、裏面の緯糸の空間率は５６％であった。また、織物の厚みは４４０μｍで、通気度は１８０ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃであり、ハリコシと高通気性、さらに優れた防透性とを兼ね備えた衣料用織物素材であった。縫い目ズレは１．５ｍｍであり、通常の衣料用織物素材としての基本物性としても、問題の無いものであった。 Next, a normal liquid dyeing finish was applied to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 186 / inch and a weft density of 110 / inch. The cover factor at this time is 1356 for the surface layer and 1540 for the back layer. The space ratio of the warp yarn of each layer is 53%, the space ratio of the front weft yarn is 73%, and the space ratio of the back weft yarn is 56%. %Met. Further, the thickness of the woven fabric was 440 μm, the air permeability was 180 cc / cm 2 · sec, and it was a woven fabric material for clothing that had both elasticity, high air permeability, and excellent permeation resistance. The seam misalignment was 1.5 mm, and there was no problem even with basic physical properties as a normal textile material for clothing.
[実施例２]
ポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメントの部分融着仮撚り加工糸（８４ｄｔｅｘ−３６フィラメント）を経糸に用い、同部分融着仮撚り加工糸とポリエステル繊維６５質量％／綿３５質量％の３４番手単糸の紡績糸とを１本交互で表面、裏面の緯糸として用い、図２の織物組織に従って、通常のエアジェットルームを用いて経密度１７９本／インチ、緯密度１０６本／インチ、接結点の周期経１６／緯２０の２重平組織織物を製織した。
[Example 2]
Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament partially fused false twisted yarn (84 dtex-36 filament) is used as warp, and the partially fused false twisted yarn and spun yarn of 34th single yarn of 65% polyester fiber / 35% cotton by weight Are alternately used as the wefts on the front and back surfaces, and according to the fabric structure of FIG. 2, using a normal air jet loom, the warp density is 179 yarns / inch, the weft density is 106 yarns / inch, and the joint warp is 16 / Weaving a double flat texture fabric of 20 wefts.
次いで、通常の連続染色仕上げ加工を施し、経密度が１８６本／インチ、緯密度が１１０本／インチの織物を得た。 Subsequently, a normal continuous dyeing finish was applied to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 186 / inch and a weft density of 110 / inch.
この際のカバーファクターは、表面の層が１３５６、裏面の層が１５４０であり、各層の経糸の空間率は５３％、表面および裏面の緯糸の空間率は６３％であった。
また、織物の厚みは３５０μｍ、通気度は１６０ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃであり、ハリコシと高通気性、さらに優れた防透性とを兼ね備えた衣料用織物素材であった。縫い目ズレは１．０ｍｍであり、通常の衣料用織物素材としての基本物性としても問題の無いものであった。
The cover factor at this time was 1356 for the surface layer and 1540 for the back layer. The warp space ratio of each layer was 53%, and the space ratio of the front and back wefts was 63%.
Moreover, the thickness of the woven fabric was 350 μm, the air permeability was 160 cc / cm 2 · sec, and it was a woven fabric material for clothing that had both elasticity, high air permeability, and excellent permeability. The seam misalignment was 1.0 mm, and there was no problem as a basic physical property as a normal woven material for clothing.
[比較例１]
実施例１の部分融着仮撚り加工糸の代わりに、通常の仮撚り加工糸（８４ｄｔｅｘ−３６フィラメント）を用いて実施例１と同様に織物を製織し、実施例１と同様に液流染色仕上げ加工を施し、経密度が１８９本／インチ、緯密度が１１６本／インチの２重平組織織物を得た。
[Comparative Example 1]
A woven fabric is woven in the same manner as in Example 1 using a normal false twisted yarn (84 dtex-36 filament) instead of the partially fused false twisted yarn of Example 1, and liquid flow dyeing is performed as in Example 1. Finishing was performed to obtain a double flat woven fabric having a warp density of 189 / inch and a weft density of 116 / inch.
この際のカバーファクターは実施例１と同じであるものの、仮撚り加工糸の単糸フィラメントが開繊することにより、見かけの繊維直径が大きくなり、各層の経糸の空間率は３５％、表面の緯糸の空間率は４５％、裏面の緯糸の空間率は５６％であった。また、織物の厚みは５００μｍ、通気度は８０ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃであり、ハリコシと優れた防透性はあるものの、通気性の低い不十分な衣料用織物素材であった。縫い目ズレは５．０ｍｍであり、通常の衣料用織物素材としての基本物性も満たさないものであった。 Although the cover factor at this time is the same as in Example 1, the apparent fiber diameter is increased by opening the single filament of the false twisted yarn, the space ratio of the warp of each layer is 35%, The weft space ratio was 45%, and the back weft space ratio was 56%. Moreover, although the thickness of the woven fabric was 500 μm and the air permeability was 80 cc / cm 2 · sec, and it had excellent permeation resistance, it was an insufficiently woven fabric material for clothing with low air permeability. The seam deviation was 5.0 mm, and the basic physical properties as a normal garment fabric material were not satisfied.
[比較例２]
実施例１の織物組織の代わりに、図３の織物組織によって実施例１と同様に織物を製織し、実施例２と同様に連続染色仕上げ加工を施し、経密度が１８９本／インチ、緯密度が１１６本／インチ、接結点の周期経８／緯８の織物を得た。
[Comparative Example 2]
A woven fabric is woven in the same manner as in Example 1 using the woven fabric structure of FIG. 3 instead of the woven fabric structure of Example 1, and is subjected to continuous dyeing finish processing in the same manner as in Example 2. Of 116 pieces / inch, and a knitting point with a period of 8 / longitude 8 was obtained.
この際のカバーファクターは実施例１と同じであり、各層の経糸と緯糸の空間率についても実施例１と同等であったが、織物の厚みは２８０μｍ、通気度は１８０ｃｃ／ｃｍ２・ｓｅｃであり、優れた通気性はあるものの、ペーパーライクで軽量感は無く風合いが硬く、衣料用素材として不十分なものであった。また、各層の空隙が重なり合った状態で織物組織が固定されており、防透性においても不十分なものであった。縫い目ズレは１．０ｍｍであり、通常の衣料用織物素材としての基本物性としては問題の無いものであった。 The cover factor at this time was the same as in Example 1, and the space ratio of the warp and weft of each layer was also the same as in Example 1, but the fabric thickness was 280 μm and the air permeability was 180 cc / cm 2 · sec. Although it was excellent in air permeability, it was paper-like and not light and had a hard texture, which was insufficient as a clothing material. Further, the fabric structure was fixed in a state where the voids of the layers overlapped, and the permeability was insufficient. The seam misalignment was 1.0 mm, and there was no problem as a basic physical property as a normal textile material for clothing.
Claims (4)
（１）各層の平織組織織物の経糸の空間率が４０％以上６５％以下、
（２）一層の平織組織織物の緯糸の空間率が５０％以上８０％以下、
（３）もう一層（他層）の平織組織織物の緯糸の空間率が４０％以上７０％以下。 2. The woven fabric for clothing according to claim 1, wherein the space ratio of the warp and the weft of the plain woven fabric of each layer satisfies all of the following conditions (1) to (3).
(1) The space ratio of the plain weave fabric of each layer is 40% or more and 65% or less,
(2) The space ratio of the weft of one layer of plain woven fabric is 50% or more and 80% or less,
(3) The weft space ratio of the plain weave fabric of the other layer (other layer) is 40% or more and 70% or less.
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| JP2555888Y2 (en) * | 1991-12-25 | 1997-11-26 | ユニチカ株式会社 | Composite bundled yarn |
| JPH08100340A (en) * | 1994-09-30 | 1996-04-16 | Toray Ind Inc | Processed yarn by melt false twisting and its production |
| JPH09273035A (en) * | 1996-04-04 | 1997-10-21 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Partially fused false twist yarn and its production |
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| JP2000070117A (en) * | 1998-09-02 | 2000-03-07 | Toli Corp | Curtain |
| JP2002054050A (en) * | 2000-08-07 | 2002-02-19 | Agehara Orimono Kogyo Kk | Light-controlling cloth |
| JP2002105781A (en) * | 2000-09-28 | 2002-04-10 | Toray Ind Inc | Fused false-twist texture yarn and method for producing the same |
| JP2004084129A (en) * | 2002-08-27 | 2004-03-18 | Arkhe Kikaku:Kk | Double or triple cloth for diaper and diaper produced by using the same |
| JP4804140B2 (en) * | 2005-12-15 | 2011-11-02 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | False twisted yarn and woven / knitted fabric, and method for producing false twisted yarn |
| JP5610866B2 (en) * | 2010-06-16 | 2014-10-22 | 有限会社スワモンショウ | Weaving method of gauze fabric |
| JP2014210988A (en) * | 2013-04-18 | 2014-11-13 | 東レ株式会社 | Woven or knitted fabric having multilayer structure |
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2013
- 2013-06-12 JP JP2013123766A patent/JP6164943B2/en active Active
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