JP3226797B2 - Moiré prevention soft woven interlining - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric interlining for thin woven garments, which has both a moiré-preventing performance and a soft feeling performance.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, when making clothes using a thin woven fabric, an interlining is adhered to the back side of the woven fabric in order to improve wearability, improve tailoring appearance and facilitate sewing. The method has been generally done.

[0003] However, in recent years, the "new synthetic fiber" has been developed, and as thinner, softer and more delicate thin fabrics have been widely used, the conventional fabric interlining has been used to maintain the texture of the outer fabric. Various troubles began due to inconsistencies in the properties such as the properties and the appearance retention properties of the surface material.

Accordingly, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937, the yarn is crimped to impart stretchability, the single fiber is made fine denier, or the alkali weight is reduced to soften the texture. Various improvements have been made, such as reducing the thickness of the interlining by reducing the total denier of the yarn to 50 or 30 de, or improving the transparency by using a transparent polymer.

As a result, the ability to follow the surface material and the ability to maintain the feeling of the surface material have been greatly improved, and the appearance retention of the surface material has been significantly improved in terms of transparency and smoothness.

[0006] However, there has not yet been found a sufficient solution for preventing moiré.

More specifically, as shown in FIG. 1, when the interlining A and the interlining B are overlapped with each other, the warp A, A 'or B, B' of the uniform and regularly arranged fabrics overlap each other. The resulting interference fringe pattern M impairs the appearance quality of the outer material.

In order to prevent this moiré, the woven fabric is
For example, a method of irregularly disturbing the warp and weft texture lines in a satin texture is known, but disadvantageous in that weaving becomes complicated, weaving cost increases, and transparency decreases.

For this reason, the present inventors have studied a method for preventing the occurrence of moiré by bending the yarns in the woven fabric irregularly and disturbing the arrangement. It has been found that there is a case where defects such as unevenness and feeling and touch are caused.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and to provide a woven fabric interlining having both a moiré prevention effect and a soft feeling.

[0011]

According to the present invention, there is provided a woven fabric comprising a polyester multifilament having substantially no twist and false twist crimping, wherein one of the warp and the weft has a single fiber denier of 4.0 de or more. A, multifilament B having a single fiber denier of 1.5 de or less
It is a soft woven interlining for preventing moiré, characterized by using:

Here, it is preferable that the multifilament A has a fineness of 10 to 100 de, the number of constituent filaments is 6 or less, and the multifilament B has a total fineness of 10 to 100 de.

It is further preferred that the warp and the weft of the woven fabric have a cover factor of 200 to 800, respectively.

[0014]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 2 is a front view showing an example of an apparatus for producing a polyester multifilament false twisted crimped yarn according to the present invention.

That is, the unstretched yarn 1 of polyester multifilament is entangled with the interlace nozzle 3 between the supply roller 2 and the heating roller 4, and then stretched and heated between the heating roller 4 and the take-out roller 7. 4 and a heating heater 5 and a false twisting process with a false twisting device 6, and a winding roller 7 having a step with a different diameter which can give 1.5% relaxation to the yarn when wound on a roller. The interlaced nozzle 8 is arranged to impart confounding to the false twisted yarn, and then the yarn is wound around a ring 10 by a yarn device 9 from a ring.

Now, using this apparatus, crimped multifilaments a to l are prepared under the false twisting conditions shown in Table 1, and a to j are crimped multifilaments A, and a, k, l
Is used as the crimped multifilament B, the multifilament A is used for the warp and the multifilament B is used for the weft, and the finished cover factor of the warp is about 523 and the finished cover factor of the weft is about 383. A woven interlining was created.

[0018]

[Table 1]

Next, a densimeter (a measuring instrument for measuring the density of the woven fabric utilizing interference fringes) is superposed in the warp direction and the weft direction of the woven fabric interlining, and the interference fringes are observed to perform a sensory evaluation of the moiré prevention property. Further, the softness of the hand was evaluated by sensory evaluation by handling, and the results were indicated by ○, Δ, ×, etc. in the order of excellent performance, and the results are summarized in Table 2.

[0020]

[Table 2]

In Table 2, if the performance is higher than the conventional interlining and has a commercial value, it is necessary that both the anti-moiré property and the softness of the hand satisfy both of ○ to Δ or more. There are combinations of A and B.

That is, from Tables 1 and 2, the single fiber denier of the crimped multifilament A must be 4 de or more.
Less than 6de is preferred. 6 for the number of filaments constituting the yarn
The following is preferred. Further, the denier of the single fiber of the crimped multifilament B needs to be about 1.5 de or less.

In Table 1, the processing speed under the false twisting conditions is the peripheral speed of the take-out roller, and the IL nozzle pressure is the pressure / air pressure of the IL nozzle 3 / IL nozzle 8 in FIG.

TC of physical properties of crimped multifilament yarn
Is a 3,000 denier skein of crimped multifilament
It shows the crimp of the skein which has been subjected to a boiling water treatment under a load of mg / de for 20 minutes to express the crimp, and is calculated by the following formula (unit%).

[0025]

(Equation 1)

In addition, a torque of 20 mg / d is hung on one end of a crimped multifilament of a ring-shaped body and freely rotated by the torque of the yarn. The number of twists caused by the developed torque is calculated per m and calculated.

The degree of interlace (IL degree) is 0.1
Insert a needle into the crimped multifilament under the load of g / d from the side, open the needle in the yarn length direction, open the needle at the point where it stops at the entanglement of the yarn, insert the needle again about 2 mm ahead and insert the needle again at a position similar to that of the yarn. The number of times of repeating in the longitudinal direction and stopping per meter is measured at n = 5, and the average value is calculated.

In Table 2, ○ / × indicates the moiré-preventing property /
The evaluation result of the softness of the hand is shown. That is, in the crimped multifilament A, the magnitude of the torque based on the single fiber denier and the number of filaments and the fiber arrangement is disturbed by the opening property of the constituent filaments, and in B, the flexibility based on the single fiber denier contributes to the properties of the woven fabric. For the first time, both characteristics of anti-moiré property and softness of feeling are simultaneously satisfied within the above ranges.

Here, if the crimp rate (TC) of the crimped multifilament is 15 to 20% or more, it can sufficiently cope with the stretchability of the outer material.

Further, the total fineness of the multifilament is:
Since the outer material is thin, generally 10 to 100 de, preferably 20 to 50 de is suitable.

The material of the filament is not particularly limited as long as it can be subjected to false twist processing such as polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, etc., but polyester is most suitable in terms of heat setting property, dyeing property and the like. In addition, the third component may be added to the polymer according to the purpose, and the cross-sectional shape and the like may be variously changed. At this time, using a polymer having high transparency has the advantage that the number of colors of the interlining prepared according to the surface material can be reduced.

On the other hand, the cover factor of the woven fabric is 200 to
800, preferably 400 to 600 is optimal. 200
When the adhesive is applied to the interlining below, the adhesive does not stop on the front side of the interlining and easily slips to the back side, and the adhesive effect and feeling deteriorates and slip of the texture point tends to occur. Not preferred.

On the other hand, when it is more than 800, transparency, stretchability, softness, light weight, drape property and the like are deteriorated, and the weight per unit area and the cost are unfavorably increased.

Further, if the yarn is twisted, the yarn is bundled, the fiber arrangement is improved, and moiré is easily generated, so that non-twisting (twisting at the time of unwinding twisting or winding of a ring twisted yarn can be ignored) is preferable. In order to improve the handleability in the weaving process, it is preferable that the multifilament has an appropriate interlace such as interlace. Further, it is better to use a multifilament having the same total fineness as possible for the warp and the weft, but in this case, the multifilament in which the single fiber denier is thicker is more preferably slightly thinner than the multifilament in which the single fiber denier is thinner. .

The cover factor may be set in consideration of the warp and weft balance as needed depending on the appearance of the interlining. Further, when the alkali weight is reduced in the dyeing process, the softness of the hand is further improved.

[0036]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. Using a false twisting device shown in FIG. 2, a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn 1 was used as a prevention speed of 1250 m /
using 90 denier / 6 filaments spun at a speed of 200 min / n for the supply roller 2, 200.5 m / min for the peripheral speed of the heating roller 4, 600 m / min for the peripheral speed of the take-out roller 7, and a relaxation rate of 1.5. %, The number of rotations of the spindle of the ring twisting device 9 is 7,500 rpm, the temperature of the heating roller 4 is 100 ° C., and the temperature of the heating heater 5 is 260.
℃ (heater length 130mm), interlace nozzle 3
And 8 were used, and a false twisting device of a circumscribed friction disk type was used as the false twisting device 6, and a false twisting process was performed at a disk peripheral speed / yarn speed ratio (D / Y) of 2.0 to obtain 30 deniers. Polyester multifilament A having / 6 filaments, a TC of 26% expression torque of 400 T / m, and an interlace degree of 17 / m was obtained.

On the other hand, as a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn 1, 90 was spun at a spinning speed of 1000 m / min.
Supply roller 2 using denier / 36 filament
Peripheral speed 178.5 m / min, peripheral speed 179 m / min of the heating roller 4 and peripheral speed 50 of the take-out roller 7
0 m / min, 1.5 kg / cm 2 pneumatic pressure of the interlace nozzles 3 and 8, false twisting was performed under the same conditions as for the polyester multifilament A, 30 denier / 36 filaments, TC22%, and expressed torque 10
Polyester multifilament B having 0 T / m and an interlace degree of 50 pcs / m was obtained.

Next, the multifilament A is passed through a warp,
Multifilament B is used as weft without twisting and weaving without glue. Relax treatment, alkali weight loss treatment (weight loss rate 20
%), Dyeing finish treatment, etc., and the warp density is 95 yarns / in.
ch (cover factor 520), weft density 70 yarns / i
nch (cover factor 383), basis weight about 20 g / m
² flat-textile fabrics were obtained.

Although the obtained woven fabric has a single fiber denier of about 4 de of the multifilament A of the warp and is very thick, the denier of the single filament of the multifilament B of the weft is as thin as about 0.7 de. High torque and strong crimping force due to the thick single fiber denier of the multifilament A, and opening (unbunching) of the single fibers due to a small number of filaments, the yarns are not united and randomly. The arrangement was distorted due to bending or twisting, and had good performance as an interlining in which almost no moire phenomenon was observed even when superimposed on various surface materials. The stretchability was also good due to crimping and disordered fiber arrangement.

[0040]

As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric interlining for a thin woven fabric garment, which has both a moiré-preventing performance and a soft feeling performance, and is also excellent in stretch performance.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram for explaining a moiré phenomenon.

FIG. 2 is a front view showing an example of a false twisting apparatus used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 B. Thin fabric for clothing b) Fabric interlining according to the present invention A, A 'Warp of fabric B, B' Weft of fabric M Moiré pattern 1 Unstretched yarn of polyester multifilament 2 Supply roller 3, 8 Interlace nozzle 4 Heating roller 5 Heating Heater 6 False twisting device 7 Take-out roller 9 Ring twisting device 10 Crimped multifilament pan

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on front page (72) Inventor Kunya Domichi 3-4-1, Amihara, Ibaraki-shi, Osaka Teijin Limited Osaka Research Center (72) Inventor Seiichi Suematsu Minamihonmachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 1-6-7 Teijin Limited (56) References JP-A-62-97937 (JP, A) JP-A-8-74110 (JP, A) JP-A-8-176931 (JP, A) JP-A-7-118985 (JP, A) JP-A-4-11070 (JP, A) JP-A-3-40877 (JP, A) JP-A-63-303164 (JP, A) JP-A-62-289641 (JP) JP-A-7-258938 (JP, A) JP-A-9-188940 (JP, A) JP-A-10-60749 (JP, A) JP-A-9-111578 (JP, A) 9-67752 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D03D 1/00-27/18

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven fabric made of a polyester multifilament having substantially no twist and false twist crimp, wherein one of a warp or a weft has a multifilament A having a denier of 4.0 de or more and the other has a denier of a single fiber. 1.5d
e. An anti-moiré soft woven fabric interlining comprising the following multifilament B: 2. A multifilament A having a total fineness of 10
The anti-moiré soft woven fabric interlining according to claim 1, wherein the number of constituent filaments is 6 or less, and the multifilament B has a total fineness of 10 to 100de. 3. The anti-moiré soft woven fabric interlining according to claim 1, wherein the warp and the weft have a cover factor of 200 to 800, respectively.