JPH05321064A - First-twisted elastic covering yarn and crimped woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce the subject thin crimped woven fabric exhibiting drapeability and excellent in uniformity and visual appearance by using an elastic covering yarn capable of manifesting excellent crimps and excellent in stretchability and weaving the fabric with various touch. CONSTITUTION:In first-twisted elastic covering yarns 1 and 10 composed of an elastic yarn 2 as the core yarn and a non-elastic filament yarn 3 as the sheath yarn, the first-twisting coefficient K1 satisfies 3000<K1<7300 and the cover-twisting coefficient K2 satisfies 75<K2<200. The direction of covering is same as that of the first twisting.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a coated elastic yarn having an elastic yarn as a core yarn, and further to a grain weave knitted fabric using the coated elastic yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, the following is known as a coated elastic yarn having an elastic yarn as a core yarn. There is a covered yarn in which an elastic yarn is used as a core yarn and a non-elastic filament yarn such as a nylon yarn or a wool nylon yarn is wound around the core yarn. Since this cover yarn uses filament yarn as the sheath yarn, it has surface gloss and transparency and is highly stretchable, and therefore it is widely used in pantyhose as both single and double cover yarns. On the other hand, since the wooly nylon yarn is crimped, it has a high bulkiness and a soft feeling, and is widely used in innerwear, swimwear and leg knits.

Further, by using these cover yarns, a stretchable swelling weave having a three-dimensional wave effect and a feature such as a willow shade and a crepe tone is obtained by a weaving and knitting technique and a weaving technique. There is a knit. There is a entangled elastic yarn in which elastic yarns and filament yarns are aligned, disturbed by an air nozzle, mixed, and entangled.
This entangled elastic yarn has a poor mixed fiber entanglement property, and the core yarn is exposed, the entanglement strength is weak, and the cover yarn is displaced, so that the entangled elastic yarn has a feeling of surface irregularity, and such characteristics are utilized. Used in outerwear and textiles.

Further, in the conventional knitted knitted fabric having no grain, there is a strongly twisted yarn for the filament yarn (1000 T / M or more for the raw yarn), and the S and Z of the unburned yarn of the preliminary combustion. There are a crimped woven fabric in which one to several twists are alternately arranged, a crimped knitted fabric in which other yarns are aligned and twisted.

[0005]

However, in any case, the above-mentioned covered elastic yarn has a first purpose of imparting stretchability, and does not have a function of giving a surface change to a woven or knitted fabric or showing a grain appearance. .. When using the coated elastic yarn of No. 1, only a large surface change can be expressed by the interwoven or knitting technique as a means for obtaining the surface change. Moreover, in the stretched state, most of the handle part is stretched and the surface change disappears. However, there is a problem that surface changes cannot be fixed.

[0006] The above entangled elastic yarn can give a feeling of unevenness to the surface of the woven or knitted material, but the unevenness is random and the surface quality is poor, and the surface quality is improved to some extent by chasing. There is a problem that the improvement is insufficient.
As described above, the conventional woven or knitted fabric using the coated elastic yarns only greatly shrinks and hardly causes a three-dimensional change or grain appearance, and the woven or knitted fabrics using the entangled elastic yarns also have poor surface quality. It was impossible at all to develop delicate and uniform texture like the crimped knitted fabric.

The woven or knitted fabric using the above-mentioned strongly twisted yarn or uncombusted unburned yarn is a general crimped woven fabric and has good quality graininess, but it can be said that stretchability is sufficiently imparted. Absent. That is, both woven and knitted products using conventional covered elastic yarns and entangled elastic yarns and conventional crimped fabrics using strong twisted yarns have both excellent surface change or grain appearance and good stretchability. There was nothing that combined the properties of.

Therefore, a first object of the present invention is to provide a covered elastic yarn which solves the problems of the yarns described above and (1), and which provides good warp expression and is excellent in stretchability. A second object of the present invention is to provide a grain-woven knitted fabric that is thin and has drapeability, can set various textures, and is well-balanced and rich in aesthetics.

[0009]

In order to solve the above problems, a coated elastic yarn according to the present invention is a coated elastic yarn in which an elastic yarn is a core yarn and a non-elastic filament yarn is a sheath yarn. The coefficient K ₁ is 3000 <K ₁ <7300, and the coefficient K ₂ is 75 <K ₂ <200 from the coating, and the coating is carried out in the same direction as the previous direction. Further, in the previously-covered elastic yarn according to the second aspect of the invention, the draft ratio of the elastic yarn serving as the core yarn is 2.0 times or less.

A grain weave knitted fabric according to a third aspect of the present invention uses the coated elastic yarn from the first aspect. In the grain-woven knitted fabric according to the invention of claim 4, the elastic yarn as the core yarn has a twist. here,
The woven or knitted fabric refers to a woven or knitted fabric, or a cloth having both a woven structure and a knitted structure, and having a texture on at least one of the front and back surfaces.

The coated elastic yarn according to the present invention is a yarn in which the elastic yarn is the core yarn and the filament yarn is the sheath yarn,
It is a covered yarn in which a filament yarn is wound around an elastic yarn in a coil shape. As the elastic thread used in the present invention, ordinary elastic thread such as polyurethane elastic thread, polyester elastic thread, polyamide elastic thread and the like are widely used. As the filament yarn, various inelastic yarns are used, for example, multifilament yarn or monofilament yarn of synthetic fiber such as polyamide type, polyester type, polyacrylonitrile type, polypropylene type, vinyl chloride type, or rayon. It may be a filament yarn of synthetic fiber such as system, diacetate system, triacetate system, raw silk (silk) and natural fiber. The filament yarn is preferably a multifilament yarn rather than a monofilament yarn, and is preferably a raw yarn or a raw yarn rather than these crimped yarns.

A preferable setting method for the denier number and the filament number of the filament yarn and the denier number of the elastic yarn is, for example, as follows. 20 to 300 denier for elastic yarn of 10 to 210 denier, 2 to 14
Preference is given to using filament yarns having a filament number of 4. As the thin textured knitted fabric, 30 to 100 denier is more preferable. The single yarn denier is preferably 3 denier or less, and preferably 1.5 denier or less.

When the filament yarn is a polyester yarn, for example, rather than high-pressure dyeable (130 ° C .; disperse dye) regular type dyeing, a modified polyester type normal pressure dyeable dye to which a third component is added is used. The closer to, the better. As a specific filament yarn, a normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester (in the commercially available product, for example, "color
Fine ”: manufactured by Toyobo),“ Lumilet ”: manufactured by Toray. When the upper limit of the dyeability of the elastic yarn is 120 ° C. or less, “AHY”: manufactured by Mitsubishi Ray Co., Ltd., “LOC-I” and “L”.
OC-II ”: manufactured by Toray.

The breaking strength of the filament yarn is 1.0-6.
In the present invention, even if it is a multifilament, regenerated fiber, or natural fiber that easily causes fuzz, the breaking strength is 1. It may be around 0 g / d. As the coated elastic yarn from the above, for example, one produced as follows is used. It can be manufactured using a conventional covering twisting machine, but with a draft ratio of elastic yarn set to be slightly sweeter in order to improve the graininess performance, the covering ring twist number can be set to average to coarse. Is preferred. As for the covering ring twist type, a single cover yarn (hereinafter abbreviated as SCY) is more preferable than a double cover yarn (hereinafter abbreviated as DCY).

More specifically, the coefficient K ₁ is 3000 <K ₁ <7300, and the coefficient K ₂ is the coefficient K ₂ from the covering.
Is set to 75 <K ₂ <200, and the cover ring covers the filament yarn in the same direction as the tip. In the case of a covering yarn twisted in the direction completely opposite to the former direction, the greater the number than the covering, the less the grain expression ability, which is not preferable.

The coefficient K ₁ from the tip of the filament thread of the coated elastic yarn used in the twisting processing and the coefficient K ₂ from the coating used in the covering twisting processing are defined by the following equations. (Definition of coefficient K ₁ from the front) K ₁ = T ₁ / (ρ / D ₁ ) ^0.5 (1) where T ₁ : number from the front (T / M) ρ: specific gravity of fiber D ₁ : sheath yarn ( Denier of filament yarn (definition of coefficient K ₂ from the coating) K ₂ = T ₂ / (D ₀ + D ₂ / _DF ) ^0.5 (2) where T ₂ is the number of twists of a single-covering twisted yarn (T / M) D ₂ : Denier of core yarn (elastic yarn) D ₀ : Denier of covered yarn (that is, filament yarn) _DF : Draft ratio Therefore, the material and thickness of the filament yarn should be adjusted so that K ₁ falls within the above range. In addition, the number T ₁ is set from the beginning, the combination of the core yarn and the covered yarn is considered so that K ₂ is within the above range, and the number T ₂ is set for the twisting of the covering ring. is there.

The expression of creases on the surface of the woven fabric is firstly due to the fact that the contraction force of the crease is due to the relaxation of the elastic yarn, and secondly, the filaments are formed before the coating and are processed by applying the wicks. It is due to the turning force (torque) that accompanies the contraction of the yarn. The height of the grain is, warp floats in order to tune to the number of pitches than coating the warp density of the textile tissue, assuming that does not overlap onto the filament yarns than previously, the coefficient K ₂ than the coating on the first optimum The zone is present, and secondly, the elastic yarn has a relatively low draft ratio.

First, it is necessary to set the coefficient K ₁ in the range of 3000 to 7300 from the tip in view of the number of tips of the coated elastic yarn and the development of the warp. If the coefficient K ₁ is less than 3000, the expression of grain will be poor. On the other hand, if the coefficient K ₁ is more than 7300, it will be fine grain and the woven fabric with less surface change and lacking aesthetics, that is, almost no effect will be obtained. It will be similar to normal stretch fabric. Next, it is necessary that the coefficient K ₂ of the covering is in the range of 75 to 200 in the same direction as the tip direction in terms of the warping condition of the covering twist yarn. If the coefficient is less than 75 than that of the coating, the graininess is rough decine tone, and if it exceeds 200, it is fine and the surface is not eccentric.

The draft ratio of the elastic yarn is preferably 2.0 times or less. If the draft ratio becomes higher than 2.0 times, the contraction force of the elastic yarn becomes large, and the contraction force and the turning force (torque) of the sheath yarn are exceeded, and the contraction force becomes large. It becomes a large stretch and becomes a stretched woven fabric. If the draft is 2.0 times or less, since the shrinkage force is weak, the shrinkage force and the turning force (torque) of the number are superior to the tip of the sheath yarn, and the grain expression is formed. Then, the suitable region has a draft ratio of 1.4 to 1.8 times. At the same time as the effect of expressing the number and the number of filaments forming the sheath yarn of the covered elastic yarn, the contraction force of the elastic yarn greatly contributes to the expression of the grain in the region where the draft ratio of the elastic yarn is small, that is, in the region where the contraction force is weak. Moreover, since the elastic yarns themselves are given by the unraveling of the filament yarn, the grain-creasing effect is doubled. On the contrary, in a region where the draft ratio of the elastic yarn is large other than that of the present invention, a stretch woven fabric having an excessive shrinkage force and a large stretchability is not formed and does not contribute to the development of grain.

[0020] By using the coated elastic yarn obtained in this way, it is possible to make a woven fabric and a knitted fabric.
The grained fabric is woven as follows, for example. A coated elastic yarn is used for one of the warp or weft, and a filament yarn used for the coated elastic yarn is used for the other weft or warp, or a filament yarn is used for the other.
The loom is of the sulzer type or rapier type, and while sufficiently controlling the tensions of the warp and weft, plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc. are woven at an appropriate weaving density, and then a grain development treatment is performed. , Dyeing and finishing.

Further, the grained knitted fabric is knitted, for example, as follows. For single knit, wide diameter (30
Into a sinker circular knitting machine of 18 to 28 gauge having a shuttle of (inch φ or more), the coated elastic yarn is set as it is from the tip obtained as described above, and 150 to 400 g /
Set to m (with carry-on eye). Also, a double knit is knitted using various double-sided knitting machines. For these single knits or double knits, the filament yarns used for the covered elastic yarns as the interlaced yarns or the filament yarns for the same may be used as in the case of the grained fabric. Not only tension control during knitting yarn feeding, but also important is unraveling (or snare) similar to strong twisting torque when unwinding from the package.
It is to attach a chattering stop device to prevent a jumping defect due to the above. In the next and subsequent steps, the grain expression processing is performed,
Arrange dyeing.

When polyester filament yarns are used in these woven or knitted fabrics, it is important to carry out an appropriate weight reduction process either before or after the grain development treatment. The weight reduction rate of the polyester filament yarn is preferably 2 to 25% by weight. In the present invention, if the filament yarn is previously woven or knitted with the covered elastic yarn in the case of the woven or knitted product of the filament yarn or the strongly twisted filament yarn, not only there is no stretch property, but also the drape property is This is because only low prices can be obtained. By knitting and knitting with the coated elastic yarn from the beginning, the drape property becomes very good. Moreover, as in the case of using the polyester filament yarn, by controlling the weight reduction ratio appropriately, the desired wind can be obtained. You can get a match. Further, there is an advantage that misalignment can be prevented, a dry feeling is obtained and a soft texture is obtained, and the drapability is further improved.

The grain developing treatment can be carried out by appropriately selecting grain developing treatment conditions depending on the material of the filament yarn. For example, when an atmospheric dyeable polyester yarn is used as the filament yarn, the heat treatment temperature is kept at room temperature to hot water 98 ° C. for 20 to 40 minutes, or it is put into hot water 98 ° C. for 20 minutes. Any method of keeping for 40 minutes can be selected. When rayon yarn or silk is used, it is preferable to raise the heat treatment temperature from room temperature to keep the heat treatment at 80 to 90 ° C. for 20 to 40 minutes.

Further, it is important to select a grain processing processor. In the case of woven fabrics, a model type that has the function of a soft relaxer that doubles as scouring and that allows the fabric to freely flow and move is preferable.
Specifically, there are, for example, a washer-creeping method and a continuous creaking method. Since circular knits often have a tubular shape, in a jet dyeing machine, avoid the squeezing type and rapid type,
A low flow rate and a large bath ratio is preferable.

Further, the weight reduction process when the filament yarn is a polyester yarn is performed as follows, for example. Caustic soda solution 3.5% owf, 1 hour, 4
It can be performed by immersing it under the condition of 0 ° C. or higher. The degree of weight reduction of the polyester yarn is not particularly limited, but it is necessary that the weight reduction rate is 2 to 25% by weight. In the case of a polyester yarn woven fabric, 15 to 25% by weight is preferable, and in the case of a circular knitted fabric, 2 to 15% by weight is preferable. If the weight loss rate is within this range, it is excellent not only in having graininess but also in soft feeling and drapeability, but if the weight loss rate exceeds 25% by weight, the coated elastic yarn The durability, particularly the light fastness, of the elastic yarn, which is the core yarn, is deteriorated, the strength and deterioration of the polyester yarn are extremely advanced, and the tear strength and the burst strength are weakened, which may cause the yarn breakage. As a preventive measure against these, it is preferable to carry out neutralization with an acid or washing for dyeing after the weight reduction processing.

The woven and woven knitted fabrics obtained by the present invention can be used for any application, but particularly preferred applications include, for example, ladies' blouses, dresses and skirts, and are mainly used for ready-sleeves. Used.

[0027]

[Function] Conventionally, in the woven or knitted product of the coated elastic yarn in which the filament yarn or the textured yarn is used as the sheath yarn, almost no grain expression is observed, and only the woven or knitted product exhibiting the stretchability is obtained. The reason is as follows. The conventional coated elastic yarn has a shrinking action in the scouring / relaxing or dyeing step only by the stretching behavior having stretchability, and the behavior in which the three-dimensional change is extremely small. That is, although the elastic yarn shrinks in a straight shape, it is usual to set the draft ratio to a high value of about 3 times or more for high stretch, so that the shrinking action is very large. On the other hand, since the filament yarn, which is the sheath portion, is the raw yarn or the raw yarn having no torque and having no torque, when the elastic yarn contracts, only a greater increase in number does not occur and it does not induce wrinkles. ..
Rather, by contracting the raw yarn or the raw yarn itself with respect to the elastic yarn, it works in a more tightly binding direction to form a uniform and high-density coil shape. In addition, if the sheath portion is a twisted yarn, the number of yarns will not be increased when the elastic yarn shrinks, but it will not induce graininess, and the occurrence of crimps in the twisted yarn will increase. Thus, it becomes a mere stretch yarn having high bulkiness. In any case, the expression of grain is not expected.

On the other hand, in the present invention, the elastic yarn is the core yarn, and the non-elastic filament yarn having the tip is the sheath yarn. When the elastic yarn covered with the tip is heat-treated, the sheath yarn is unwound. By the action, it becomes rich in graininess and at the same time has good stretchability. That is, by imparting the twist to the filament yarn, the unraveling torque can be generated, and the unraveling torque causes the wrinkle. Further, by twisting the covering ring in the same direction as the direction of the tip of the filament yarn, the synergistic effect of the residual torque can be utilized, and the three-dimensional change can be further increased. If the draft ratio of the elastic yarn is set to a low value of 2 times or less, the contracting force can be effectively used.

Next, in the case of a conventional knitted yarn of a strong yarn and a yarn which is not yet unraveled, for example, in the case of a strong yarn, a filament yarn is given a strong yarn (1000 T / M or more),
When the crimped woven fabric is obtained, the grained woven fabric can be obtained in a uniform manner only by preparing Z or S from them and arranging them one by one or alternately. here,
The untwisting torque of the strong thread itself and the shrinkage are more than Z /
It becomes a synergistic effect of the sequence from S, and becomes grainy. Also,
In the case of untwisted processed yarn from the beginning, in order to add the twisted yarn from the beginning before processing the temporary twist, after processing the temporary twist,
Unresolved yarn remains, one by one, the same as the strong thread of the previous section,
Alternatively, by arranging the unsolved yarns before the alternate Z, or synergizing the torque with the raw yarns by combining the untwisted yarns, etc., the grain develops, but the grainy texture is uneven in height and random. Not proportionate. All of the conventional ones are often accompanied by drainage.

On the other hand, in the present invention, by setting the coefficient from the tip of the filament yarn to be the sheath thread and the coefficient from the coating of the covered elastic yarn to the above specific range,
The grain-weave knitted fabric using the coated elastic yarn from the point of the present invention shows uniform and unbalanced graininess. In other words, it shows a totally different textured texture from the conventional hard-twisted threads, such as chilimen, palace and decine, and those that are randomly textured and have a periodic appearance, such as pseudo twisted yarn. The graininess has an extremely excellent appearance. Moreover, slippage (including eye slippage) is less likely to occur, and drape property and stretchability are also improved.

[0031]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings showing an embodiment of the covered elastic yarn of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the illustrated one. FIG. 1 (a) is a schematic view of an embodiment of the covered elastic yarn of the present invention as seen from the side.

As shown in this figure, the covered elastic yarn 1 has a core portion made of the elastic yarn 2 and a sheath portion made of the filament yarn 3 from this point forward. The filament yarn 3 is a twisted filament yarn twisted in one direction (from Z or S) in a separate process, and the elastic yarn 2 is twisted in the same direction as the twisted direction of the filament yarn 3. It is wound in a coil. That is, if the filament yarn 3 is more than Z, the elastic yarn 2 is attached to the filament yarn 3
When wrapping, also wrap around Z.

FIG. 1 (b) is a schematic side view of an embodiment in which the covered elastic yarn according to the present invention is processed to give a grain development. From the tip of this embodiment, the coated elastic yarn 10 is shown in FIG.
The number of diagonal lines shown in the filament yarn 3 is smaller than that shown in (a). The diagonal lines represent more direction and also more number density. In addition, the coiled winding state changes to a state in which the winding diameter differs depending on the location and there is a height difference. Furthermore, a twisting is added to the core yarn of the elastic yarn.

In FIG. 1, in order to make the structure of the yarn easy to understand, the filament yarn 3 is shaded to show the feeling of the filament yarn from the beginning. In addition, what was a uniform coil winding by undergoing the grain development treatment,
With a number of unwinding actions (sweetening), it induces graininess and becomes a coil with different heights. On the other hand, elastic thread 2
Causes shrinkage and contraction with a contracting action (twisting).

Next, description will be given with reference to the drawings showing one embodiment of the grain weave knitted fabric of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a warp cross-sectional perspective view of a grained fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.
In FIG. 2, the woven structure is a two-striped five-layer satin weave, in which one out of every five warps in the cross-sectional view is arranged on the upper side, and four adjacent warps are continuously arranged on the lower side. As for the weft yarn near the cross-section, there are many cases in which the filament yarn protrudes from the coated tip to the surface of the woven fabric and is formed by one texture point where the warp floats. In some cases, the warp floats. There is also a place where one does not expose the grain to the surface of the fabric by pressing the coated filament yarn. In the figure, the warp density of the portion containing the scale of 500 μm is about 10.5 yarns / mm. Originally, the number of pitches is about 11 from the coating of 900T / M immediately after coating.
Synonymous with being 1 mm / T. It will be clear from analysis of FIG. 3 how this was changed by the grain treatment.

FIG. 3 shows an enlarged structure of a weft yarn extracted from an arbitrary portion of the grained fabric, that is, a covered elastic yarn. In FIG. 3, the elastic yarn 2 constituting the core yarn
Is in a state where there is little twist, and the weft-decomposed yarn of the filament yarn 3 from the tip forming the sheath yarn is in contact with the floating portion 3a covered with the same pitch and the elastic yarn 2 of the core yarn. It is composed of the portion 3b in a tightly bound state. The same pitch portion 3a is a design point from the warp yarn in FIG. 2, and when one floating warp yarn is arranged on the upper side and four continuous warp yarns are arranged on the lower side,
Synchronized with the pitch of the sheath of the filament yarn 3 from the tip of the sheath yarn, one floating warp thread enters between the sheath, that is, on the elastic yarn of the core yarn, and the filament yarn 3 protrudes from the tip to the surface of the fabric. To form. On the other hand, the portion 3b of the core yarn which is in contact with the elastic yarn 2 appears on the surface of the woven fabric, because the pitch of the sheath of the filament yarn 3 from the tip of the sheath yarn happens to be held below one floating warp yarn. Without being depressed, it becomes a shape that contacts the elastic yarn of the core yarn.

The frequency of occurrence of these structures is governed by the relationship between the woven structure, the warp density and the coating, and the coefficient. In FIG. 3, the part a having the same pitch is 2 to 4 times, mostly 3 times. The portions a having the same pitch constitute the number and arrangement (including the direction) of the wrinkles that appear within a certain area on the surface of the woven fabric, and represent the wrinkles of the present invention. Figure 4
It shows another embodiment of the present invention, which is an expanded structure of a decomposed yarn, that is, a covered elastic yarn, which is extracted from an arbitrary portion of a grain knitted fabric.

In FIG. 4, the elastic yarn 2'constituting the core yarn has a twist, and the filament yarn 3'protrudes away from the elastic yarn 2'from the tip constituting the sheath yarn. It is composed of a portion 3a 'that is covered in a state (sweet portion) and a portion 3b' that is covered in a state in which the elastic yarn 1'of the core yarn is tightly bound (strong line portion). The grainy texture of the grained knitted fabric (omitted) has random but no graininess. As for the relationship between the knitted fabric and the knitted fabric shown in FIG. 4, the protruding portion 3a 'of the filament yarn 3'becomes grainy and the portion 3b' on which the core yarn is tightly bound forms a concave flat portion of the knitted fabric.

The slight difference between FIG. 3 and FIG. 4 is that the woven fabric has a stronger tissue restraining force and the degree of twist of the core yarn is smaller, so that the graininess is more remarkable. Since the size of the unraveling of the filament yarn 3 ′ is loose because the restraining force inside the knit is weaker than that of the tip covered in the knitting, it is considered that a larger amount than the unraveling has entered when the shrinkage shrinkage force acts. .. Examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be specifically shown below, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

-Example 1-Polyester filament yarn 75-36-E shown in Table 1
220 (200 T / M, S: Z 2 alternating arrangements; "Soluna" manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., AHY type) with warp yarns and covered elastic yarn S275 (AHY) ("Operon" 20
d type 127c: polyurethane elastic yarn manufactured by Toray-Dupont Co., Ltd., which is the same in the following examples, is used as a core yarn, and a sheath yarn "Soluna" 75-48-E220 is used from the number Z from the tip 5
The weft was processed to a twisted yarn of 00 T / M, and a single covering was performed at a drafting ratio of 1.64 under a covering twisting condition of 900 T / M, Z) was used as a weft yarn, and the weave design was a five-ply satin weave.

The loom used was a rapier loom MAV type rapier (manufactured by Tsudakoma Co., Ltd.) with a weaving condition of 400 revolutions /
Carried out in minutes. Fabric design is reed width 198 cm (reed density 80
Feather / whale size) Woven density 94 pieces / inch, Finishing density 282 pieces / inch x 100 pieces / inch (length x width), Finishing width 1
It was 13 cm. Next, after the scouring process of the greige machine was carried out at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes, a processing for expression of crepe was carried out at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes with a washer and graining machine. Successively, the weight reduction processing was carried out by dipping at 3% owf of caustic soda solution for 1 hour at 85 ° C.
For the dyeing and finishing, after dyeing with a dyeing machine liquid flow-dying machine (UNIACE) for cationic dye × 9 ° C. × 45 minutes, drying and finishing set were performed.

In this manner, a hard-touch, one-piece, dress-friendly, textured, and highly aesthetic fabric was obtained. -Example 2-Silk 21 in silk 21 shown in Table 1 (2800 T / M, S: Z two alternating arrays) is used as a warp, and a coated elastic yarn S275 (R) ("Operon" 20d type 127c is used as a core yarn, and a sheath is used). Yarn rayon 7
5-30-SD; 5 from Kuraray Co., Ltd.
A weft obtained by twisting at 00 T / M and subjected to single covering at a drafting ratio of 1.48 under a covering twisting condition of 900 T / M, Z) was used as a weft, and the weave was a plain weave.

The weaving machine used was the same as in Example 1, and the woven fabric design was such that the reed width was 160 cm, the finishing width was 92 cm, the weaving density was 96 yarns / inch, and the finishing density was 162 yarns / inch × 119.
It was a book / inch (length x width). Next, the raw fabric was subjected to silk tie with a hanging dyeing machine at 96 ° C. for 180 minutes and processing for developing warts was performed at the same time. Dyeing, slow cooling and soaping were performed with the same machine.

The obtained shibo texture is in a georgette tone,
It was an elegant place for women's blouses. -Example 3-Nylon filament yarn 50-24-215 shown in Table 2
(1800T / M, S: Z 2 alternating arrays; manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.)
The warp, the coated elastic yarn S470 (“Operon” 40d type 127c as the core yarn, the sheath yarn nylon filament yarn 7
0-68-200; "Royal Sophie" manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., twisted from several Z to 750 T / M, and covered with twisting conditions 1200 T / M, single covering with a draft ratio of 1.85. Was used as the weft and was woven with a 2/1 twill weave design, and the same grain development treatment was performed as in Example 1.

The obtained grained fabric had a soft texture and touch, and had a silky tone, and was suitable as a slip camisole. -Example 4-As shown in Table 2, in Example 1, polyester filament yarn from "AHY" 75-36-E220,
"LOC-II" 100-48-F915 (modified Toray Industries, Ltd. modified polyester continuous fiber, cationic dyeable 120 ° C dyeing type), coated elastic yarns from S275 (R) to S310.
0 (Compared to S275 (R), the operon yarn was changed from 20d to 30d and twisted at 400 T / M from the number Z, and the drafting ratio was 1.40. Example 1 except that the plain weave was changed to the single weaving)
The same prescription was used for grain development treatment and weight reduction processing.

The obtained grained woven fabric was a chiffon crepe-like woven fabric for ladies' blouses (medium thick). -Example 5-As shown in Table 3, the covered elastic yarn S which is the weft of Example 2
275 (R) was used, and the knitting structure was knitted in a two-stage double-sided knit, with 24 gauge and 30 inches (Fukuhara Seiki; JIL-7). For dyeing, a jet dyeing machine was used and a round finishing set was performed.

The obtained shibo knitted fabric has a georgette tone,
It was a unique drape and was suitable for one-piece dresses. -Example 6-As shown in Table 3, in Example 5, the coated elastic yarn S2.
75 (R), polyester filament yarn 30-
24-BFT (from 1200 T / M, Z from the beginning; "TEC" ultra high-speed spinning manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo) covering condition 120
S430 (TE) single-covered from 0 T / M, Z with a draft ratio of 1.55 was used. As the knitting yarn, a yarn having a number of 3000 T / M from the tip of the polyester filament yarn was used.

The weight reduction processing of the polyester yarn was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained grained knitted fabric was suitable for a blouse shirt with a soft touch and a good drape. -Comparative Example 1-As shown in Table 4, the polyester filament yarn 75-48-E220 used in Example 1 was used as a warp to cover the covered elastic yarn S275 (AHY), and the covered yarn was tentatively processed (wooriboester / 2. As a heater, a covering twisted yarn condition, a weaving condition with a woven fabric, and a dyeing process were performed in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a stretch woven fabric.

-Comparative Examples 2 and 3-As shown in Tables 4 and 5, the untwisted type coated elastic yarn K1000 ("Operon") was used with a twisting machine and a twisting machine (1 heater). T-127,20 ^D and nylon 70-34-205; Toray 2 earlier than the Co., Ltd.
After applying 00T / M, Z, it is temporarily processed "SP
Y ”; special covering thread made by Toray DuPont Co., Ltd.)
Was manufactured.

The unstretched type covered elastic yarn obtained above was used as it was and woven by using the weft yarn in the same manner as in Example 3. Further, as in Example 5, knitting was performed by using 100% to obtain a woven or knitted product. -Comparative Examples 4 and 5-As shown in Table 5 and Table 6, the coated elastic yarn S275 (R) used in the rayon yarn 75-34-SD used in Example 5 was used.
After weaving and knitting in the same manner as in Examples 2 and 5, respectively, except that the covered yarn of (1) was covered with the raw yarn (or raw yarn), dyeing was performed to obtain a stretch woven / knitted fabric.

As the characteristics of the textured woven or knitted fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention, textured appearance, stretchability, drapeability, touch and feel, etc. were examined, and the results are shown in Tables 1 to 6. There is. Each characteristic was evaluated according to the following criteria. (1) Textured appearance of woven / knitted fabric We tried to compare the representative textured woven fabrics of the past and to call them as similar as possible.

・ Chilimen Shibo: The strength of raw silk (300
0T / M) Unevenness of the grain on the cloth surface ・ Decine grain grain ………… Strength of raw silk (3000T / M) grain fabric ・ Parek grain ・ …… Strength of raw thread (from palace) Grain is low and smooth.・ Shinbo ……… A novel one with the covered thread of this invention protruding. (2) Stretchability of the woven / knitted material The sample is cut into a size of 25 cm × 25 cm, and with a gripping interval of 20 cm, a constant elongation is applied in a direction that has stretchability (mostly in the horizontal direction) at a tensile speed of 100% / min of a tensile elongation tester. Elongation up to 500 gf was determined. (3) Drapeability of Woven and Knitted Materials Using the drape method measuring device of JIS L1096 (general woven fabric), the following ranking was performed comprehensively from the drape coefficient and the drape shape coefficient.

⊚: Drape coefficient 0.25 or less Drape shape coefficient 4.16 or more ◯: Drape coefficient 0.26 to 0.35 Drape shape coefficient 3.76 to 4.15 Δ: Drape coefficient 0.36 to 0.45 Drape shape coefficient is 3.36 to 3.75 ×: Drape coefficient is 0.46 or more Drape shape coefficient is 3.35 or less (4) Texture / touch of woven or knitted fabric is a handling determination for the weight-reduced cloth of Example 1. (1: 1 comparison), in addition to soft and hard feeling,
The slimy feeling, dry touch, etc. were distinguished and judged.

[0054]

[Table 1] ────────────────────────────────── Example 1 Example 2 ────── ──────────────────────────── Coated elastic yarn: Core yarn “Operon” 127c “Operon” 127c 20d 20d Sheath yarn “Soluna” AHY Rayon 75-48-E220 75-30-SD Z twist 500T / M Z twist 500T / M Coating method SCY; S275 (AHY) SCY; S275 (R) Z twist 900T / M Z twist 900T / M Draft magnification 1.64 Draft ratio 1.48 Long fiber filament yarn: "Soluna" Silk 75-48-E220 21 Medium / 2 (from one piece) S / Z twist 2000T / M S / Z twist 2800T / M From the coefficient K ₁ 3687 3526 From coating coefficient K ₂ 97 97 yarns Tsukai: weft (yarn) coated elastic yarn covered elastic yarn through (Back yarn) Long filament filament yarn Long filament filament yarn Woven (knit) structure 5 pieces satin weave Plain weave ──────────────────────────── ─────── Characteristics: Grainy appearance Altered graininess Altered graininess Stretchability (%) 43 37 Drapability ◎ ◎ Texture / touch Dry touch Dry touch (Georgette style) Weight loss rate (%) 18.2 24 (silk) ──────────────────────────────────

[0055]

[Table 2] ────────────────────────────────── Example 3 Example 4 ────── ──────────────────────────── Coated elastic yarn: Core yarn "Operon" 127c "Operon" 127c 40d 30d Sheath yarn Nylon "LOC-" II ”70-68-200 100-48-F915 Z twist 750T / M Z twist 400T / M Coating method SCY; S470 SCY; S3100 Z twist 1200T / M Z twist 850T / M Draft magnification 1.85 Draft magnification 1.40 Long fiber filament yarn: Nylon "LOC-II" 50-24-215 75-36-F915 S / Z twist 1800T / M S twist 350T / M Coefficient K ₁ 5878 3407 Coat coefficient K ₂ 134 78 78 Thread usage: Weft (front yarn) Coated elastic yarn Coated elastic yarn Warp ( Yarn) Long fiber filament yarn Long fiber filament yarn Woven (knit) texture 2/1 twill weave Plain weave ───────────────────────────── ────── Characteristic: Grainy appearance Altered texture Altered texture Stretchability (%) 52 32 Drapability ○ ◎ Texture / touch Silk-like touch Dry touch Weight loss rate (%) ─ 26.5 ──── ──────────────────────────────

[0056]

[Table 3] ────────────────────────────────── Example 5 Example 6 ────── ──────────────────────────── Coated elastic yarn: Core yarn “Operon” 127c “Operon” 127c 20d 40d Sheath yarn Rayon “TEC” 75-30-SD 30-24-BFT Z twist 500T / M Z twist 1200T / M Coating method SCY; S275 (R) SCY; S430 (TE) Z twist 1100T / M Z twist 1200T / M Draft magnification 2.00 Draft Magnification 1.55 Long fiber filament yarn: “TEC” ─ 30-24-BFT S / Z twist 3000T / M Coefficient from the beginning K ₁ 3526 5595 Coefficient from the coating K ₂ 120 161 Thread usage: Weft yarn (front yarn) Coated elastic yarn Coated elastic yarn Warp (back yarn) Coated elastic yarn Long fiber filament yarn Weaving (ed) organization 2-step double-sided 2-step double-sided ────────────────────────────────── Characteristics: Shibo Quality Appearance Unusual Unshrinked Stretchability (%) 88 62 Drapability ◎ ◎ Feel, touch Dry touch Soft touch Weight loss rate (%) ─ 14.5 ─────────────── ─────────────────────

[0057]

[Table 4] ────────────────────────────────── Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 ─────── ──────────────────────────── Coated elastic yarn: Core yarn “Operon” 127c “Operon” 127 20d 20d Sheath yarn “Soluna” AHY Nylon 75-48-E220 70-34-205 2nd heater Temporary twisted yarn Z twist 200T / M Coating method SCY; S275 (WT) SPY; K1000 Z twist 900T / M Unsolved false twist Draft magnification 1.64 Draft magnification 3.2 Long-fiber filament yarn: "Soluna" Nylon 75-48-E220 50-24-215 S / Z twist 2000T / M S / Z twist 1800T / M Coefficient K ₁ 0 1568 Coefficient K ₂ 970 Thread usage: Weft (front yarn) Coated elastic yarn Coated elastic yarn Warp yarn (Back yarn) Long filament filament yarn Long filament filament yarn Woven (knit) structure 5 pieces satin weave 2/1 twill weave ────────────────────────── ────────── Characteristics: Grainy appearance No graininess No graininess Stretchability (%) 45 14 Drapability ○ △ Texture / touch Dry touch Soft touch Weight loss rate (%) 15.4 ───────────────────────────────────

[0058]

[Table 5] ────────────────────────────────── Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 ────── ──────────────────────────── Coated elastic yarn: Core yarn "Operon" 127 "Operon" 127c 20d 20d Sheath yarn Nylon rayon 70- 34-205 75-30-SD Z twist 200T / M coating method SPY; K1000 SCY; S275 (R) unsolved false twist Z twist 900T / M draft ratio 3.2 draft ratio 1.48 long fiber filament yarn: silk ─ 21 Medium / 2 (from one piece) S / Z twist 2800 T / M Coefficient from the beginning K ₁ 1568 0 Coefficient from the coating K ₂ 0 96 Thread usage: Weft (front yarn) Coated elastic yarn Coated elastic yarn Warp (back yarn) Coated Elastic yarn Long fiber filament yarn Woven (knitting) structure 2-step double-sided knit plain weave ───────── ───────────────────────── Characteristic: Textured appearance No graininess No graininess Stretchability (%) 61 41 Drapability △ ○ Wind Combined / touch Soft touch Dry touch Weight loss rate (%) ─ ────────────────────────────────────

[0059]

[Table 6] As can be seen from Tables 1 to 6, the woven and knitted fabrics of the examples, which are the coated elastic yarns of the present invention, have extremely excellent creases as compared with those using the yarns of the comparative examples, and have sufficient expansion and contraction. It is clear that it also has sex.

[0060]

The elastic yarn covered by the present invention is
Since it is as described above, if you use this,
It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric which is less likely to slip even when stretched and is rich in graininess. Since the grained woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention uses the covered elastic yarn as described above, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric in which the graininess does not disappear even when stretched.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an embodiment of a covered elastic yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a warp cross section showing an example of a textured fabric.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of a decomposed yarn extracted from a grained fabric and a grained knitted fabric.

FIG. 4 is an enlarged view of another disassembled yarn. 1, 10 First, coated elastic yarn 2, 2'elastic yarn 3, 3'filament yarn 3a, 3a 'Covered yarn is separated from the core yarn by unraveling (sweet twist). Part 3b, 3b 'A part in which the covered yarn shrinks and is tightly bound and wound around the core yarn.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. In a tip-covered elastic thread comprising elastic threads as core threads and non-elastic filament threads as sheath threads, the coefficient K ₁ is 3000 <K ₁ <7300 and the coefficient K ₂ is 75 < An elastic yarn covered with a tip, which has a K ₂ <200 and is covered in the same direction as the tip. 2. The draft ratio of the elastic yarn as the core yarn is 2.0.
The coated elastic yarn according to claim 1, which is not more than double. 3. A grain-woven woven or knitted fabric using the coated elastic yarn as set forth in claim 1. 4. The textured knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein the elastic yarn serving as the core yarn has a twist.