JPH1060749A - Woven cloth for interlining cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide woven cloth for interlining cloth inducing slight moire phenomenon and having excellent transparency without damaging feeling of front cloth. SOLUTION: This woven cloth for interlining cloth comprises crimp-processed yarn and has 10-30g/m<2> fabric weight, and an interval variation between warp and/or weft of the woven cloth is 14-40% and a parallel content of woven yarn of warp and/or weft is 18-40%, and further a surface area coefficient of warp and/or weft of the woven cloth is 8-16.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric for interlining, which has a low moiré phenomenon and is excellent in transparency.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, interlining has been used in the manufacture of clothes from the viewpoints of formability, texture adjustment, ease of sewing, and the like.

The most important performance required for interlining is that it can sufficiently follow the dimensional change of the surface material. To satisfy such performance, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937.
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Publication No. H11-264, a woven fabric interlining is proposed in which false twisted yarns having a total crimp ratio of 15 to 40% are used for the warp and the weft and the dimensional followability to the surface material is improved.

[0004] However, recently, the material for clothing (outer fabric) has become thinner and easier to be transparent, and if such a transparent fabric is used with a conventional woven fabric made of false twisted yarn,
A moiré phenomenon occurs in which the outer yarn and the interlining yarn overlap and a striped pattern is seen. In particular, this phenomenon is remarkable in an adhesive interlining.

[0005] This moiré phenomenon is extremely unpleasant in the appearance of clothes and is a major problem in the sewing industry.

As interlinings for preventing the moiré phenomenon, nonwoven fabric interlinings having no woven structure and woven interlinings such as a twill structure and a satin structure having a reduced number of texture points are known. The disadvantage is that the effect is small, and the former is greatly deformed by external force, which impairs the texture of the surface material,
In addition, since the latter has few texture points, there is a drawback that the curling (phenomenon in which the weaving yarn moves) easily occurs, and the function of the interlining cannot be sufficiently exhibited.

Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-88364 discloses a woven fabric core in which a woven fabric made of synthetic fiber bulky processed yarn is relaxed so that the weaving structure is not evident, thereby preventing the moiré phenomenon. The earth is disclosed.
However, the effect of preventing the moiré phenomenon of the woven fabric interlining is extremely small, and is not only poor in practical use but also impairs transparency.

[0008] As described above, a woven fabric interlining capable of actually preventing the moiré phenomenon has not been known so far, and when it is absolutely necessary to prevent the moiré phenomenon, the woven fabric is cut into bias and used. Is the actual situation.

However, this method has a problem that the sewing operation is extremely complicated and expensive, and the direction of deformation due to an external force is different from that of the outer material, so that the change of the texture of the outer material becomes large.

On the other hand, another problem caused by the fact that the clothing material (outer fabric) has become thinner and easier to see through is that the interlining is more easily seen through from the outer fabric side and the appearance of the clothes is deteriorated.

In order to solve this problem, attempts have been made to reduce the weight (thinness) of the interlining, but no practical effect has been obtained.

Further, efforts have been made to match the color of the interlining with the color of the interlining to make the part using the interlining inconspicuous. It is practically impossible to make the color and pattern the same, and this improvement is strongly desired.

[0013]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to solve the problems of the prior art and prevent the moiré phenomenon. An object of the present invention is to provide an interlining fabric which is not impaired.

[0014]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, the regularity of the arrangement of the warp and / or weft constituting the woven fabric has been disturbed, and the warp or the weft on the outer fabric has not It has been determined that the desired interlining fabric is obtained when periodic overlap is prevented.

Thus, according to the present invention, in an interlining fabric made of crimped yarn and having a basis weight of 10 to 30 g / m ² , the weft and / or weft of the fabric has a variation ratio of 14 between yarns. A woven fabric for an interlining is provided, wherein the woven yarn parallelism of the warp and / or the weft is 18 to 40%.

[0016]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS A crimped yarn is used for the interlining fabric of the present invention. Examples of the crimped yarn include a crimped yarn obtained by subjecting a polyester fiber, a polyamide fiber, or the like to false twisting, air flow, rubbing, or the like, or a conjugate crimped yarn. Among them, the polyester type false twisting of the spindle type or the friction roller type is most preferably used in view of the manufacturing cost and the texture of the interlining.

The crimped yarn is not particularly limited in the present invention, but preferably has a small total fineness in order not to impair the texture of the surface material and to improve transparency, and 10 to 30 denier. Is preferably exemplified. The degree of crimp is preferably 10% or more in order to improve the followability to the dimensional change of the outer material.

The basis weight of the interlining fabric of the present invention is 10 to 30.
g / m ² . When the basis weight is less than 10 g / m ^{2, the} sewing work cannot be performed because the handleability is poor. On the other hand, when an interlining material having a basis weight of more than 30 g / m ² is used for the outer material, the ability to follow the dimensional change of the outer material (particularly, thin material) is poor, and the change in texture is large, so that the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the range of the weft yarn interval variation rate and the weft thread parallelism range is limited.

First, as shown in FIG. 1, an enlarged photograph including at least six warps and six wefts is prepared. The enlarged photograph can be obtained at a magnification of about 20 to 50 using a microscope.
In addition, it is easy to obtain the enlarged photograph by using a copy machine for further enlargement (in the present invention, since the fluctuation rate is obtained, it is not affected by the enlargement magnification).

In the enlarged photograph, as shown in FIG.
Marks 1 to 12 are provided at the intersections of six consecutive warps and wefts.

Then, the intervals between the marks were sequentially measured, such as the interval between 1 and 2, then the interval between 2 and 3 (however, the interval between 6 and 7 was excluded). Obtain the spacing value between the woven yarns. This measurement is performed for five randomly selected locations, and is calculated from the total 50 yarn spacing values by the following equation.

[0023]

(Equation 1)

Here, Xi represents each measured value of the yarn spacing, and X represents the average value of 50 yarn spacing values.

The weft yarn interval variation rate can be calculated in the same manner as in the case of the warp.

First, the parallelism ratio of the weft yarn is determined by the corresponding weave yarn interval value across four wefts, such as the difference between the interval of 1-2 and the interval of 7-8 among the above-mentioned yarn interval values. Difference (1 ~
2 and 7 to 8, 2 to 3 and 8 to 9, 3 to 4 and 9 to 10, 4 to
The absolute value of the difference between 5 and 10-11 and the difference between 5 and 6 and 11-12) is calculated from the average value (S) of the 25 values obtained from the five positions according to the following equation. .

[0027]

(Equation 2)

Here, X represents an average value of 50 yarn spacing values.

The parallelism of the weft can be calculated in the same manner as in the case of the warp.

The woven fabric of the present invention has a weft and / or weft yarn weft spacing variation of 14% to 40%, and a warp and / or weft weft parallelism of 18% to 40%. It is necessary to be in.

In particular, it is preferable that the weft yarn interval variation is in the range of 18% to 30% and the weft yarn parallelism is in the range of 20% to 30%.

When the variation rate is less than 14% or when the parallelism rate is less than 18%, the moiré phenomenon cannot be prevented.
The object of the present invention is not achieved. On the other hand, the fluctuation rate is 40%
When the parallelism exceeds 40%, or when the parallelism exceeds 40%, the woven fabric surface is disturbed and the appearance is deteriorated, so that it cannot be used as an interlining.

As a method of setting the fluctuation rate of the yarn interval and the parallelism of the yarn to the above ranges, a method of applying a torque to the yarn by shortening a heating time when producing a crimped yarn, and a method of reducing the number of false twists A method in which the regularity of the arrangement of the woven yarns is disturbed (unparallelized) by using the torque, such as a method of applying a torque to the yarn with a small amount or a method of applying the torque by twisting, is suitably exemplified.

Specifically, it is preferable to set the developing torque under a load of 0.002 g / denier to be 400 to 900 / M.

Further, the surface area coefficient of the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric of the present invention is preferably in the range of 8 to 16, more preferably in the range of 9 to 12.

Here, the surface area coefficient is a value calculated by the following equation.

[0037]

(Equation 3)

Here, De represents the single fiber denier of the crimped yarn constituting the woven fabric, and Fil represents the number of filaments of one crimped yarn constituting the woven fabric.

When the fiber surface area coefficient exceeds 16, the area for reflecting light becomes large and the transparency of the interlining fabric is poor, and when used for a thin outer material, the interlining is conspicuous and impairs the appearance of clothes. On the other hand, when the fiber surface area coefficient is less than 8 (when the number of filaments is small), the interlining fabric is hard and impairs the texture of the surface material.

The interlining fabric of the present invention is usually used by applying a thermoplastic resin to one surface. Suitable examples of the thermoplastic resin include a polyamide resin, a polyester resin, and an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer resin. The coating method is preferably a single dot, double dot, mesh, or the like.

The woven fabric for an interlining according to the present invention comprises an adhesive interlining,
It may be used for either non-adhesive interlining or temporary adhering interlining, but it is preferable to use it as an adhering interlining where the moiré phenomenon easily occurs, since the effects of the present invention are remarkably exhibited.

[0042]

The present inventors have conducted intensive analysis on the moiré phenomenon, and have reached the present invention. Here, the moire phenomenon will be described with reference to the drawings.

In FIG. 2, (a) is a dense parallel line, (b) is a coarse parallel line, and (c) is a non-parallel line in the same state as the yarn arrangement of the woven fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 3 shows a case where (a) and (a) are overlapped in parallel, and no moiré phenomenon occurs.

FIG. 4 shows a case where (a) and (b) are overlapped in parallel, and coarse and dense Moire fringes due to interference occur.

FIG. 5 shows a case where (a) and (a) are obliquely overlapped, and FIG. 6 shows a case where (a) and (b) are obliquely overlapped. Both of them show a clear moiré phenomenon.

FIG. 7 is an enlarged view of FIG. 5, where congruent diamonds appear to be continuously arranged.

As is apparent from these figures, the moiré phenomenon may occur in the case where parallel interference fringes occur or in the case of a geometric pattern of continuous congruent rhombuses.

However, when the interlining and the outer material are actually overlapped, the probability that the interlining and the outer yarn are exactly parallel is low, and it can be said that the moiré phenomenon shown in FIG. 4 does not substantially occur. .

Therefore, most of the moiré phenomenon is caused by a joint rhombus geometric pattern formed by interlining and surface yarns as shown in FIGS.

FIG. 8 shows the case where (a) and (c) are obliquely overlapped, and the parallel line (outer fabric) and the non-parallel line (the fabric of the present invention)
, The substantially rhombus formed is non-congruent and does not exhibit a moiré phenomenon.

The interlining fabric according to the present invention has a weft and / or weft thread weft spacing variation of 14% to 40% and a warp and / or weft weft parallelism of 18% to 40%. Even if weaving yarn is used for a parallel outer material,
As shown in (1), no joint diamond is formed, and the moiré phenomenon does not occur.

Further, when the surface area coefficient of the woven fabric for an interlining according to the present invention is optimized, the ratio of reflecting light is reduced, and the transparency is improved, so that the interlining is not conspicuous, and The moiré phenomenon is more difficult to be visually recognized because the overlap with the image is transparent.

[0054]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. The presence or absence of the moiré phenomenon, transparency, and appearance of the fabric in the examples were measured by the following methods.

(1) Presence or absence of moiré phenomenon A plain fabric (warp density of 9) composed of the obtained fabric and a polyester filament yarn of 30 denier / 12 filaments.
(7 yarns / inch, weft density 62 yarns / inch) are superimposed on each other, and when seen through the light, a good one in which the moiré phenomenon is hardly visible is indicated by a circle. Those which were practically unusable are indicated by x.

(2) Transparency The obtained woven fabric and a plain woven fabric comprising a 30-denier / 12-filament polyester filament yarn (warp density 9
7 / inch, weft density 62 / inch), and then observed from the plain fabric side. Δ, those which were clearly visible and could not be used practically were indicated by ×.

(3) Appearance of the woven fabric The obtained woven fabric was visually observed for disturbance on the surface of the woven fabric.

Example A polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn (90 denier / 6 filaments) spun at a spinning speed of 1100 m / min was used in a false twisting apparatus equipped with a heater having a length of 15 cm, and the temperature of the heater was lowered. 220
C., the winding speed was 500 m / min, and the draw ratio was 3 times, and the film was subjected to simultaneous drawing false twisting.

Incidentally, a triaxial friction type disk type false twisting device was used as the false twisting device, and the peripheral speed of the disk was 800 m / min.

The obtained crimped yarn (30 denier / 6 filaments, expression torque 800 T / M) was woven using the warp and the weft, and then relaxed, reduced by 40%, dyed and finished, and set to warp density. A woven fabric having a flat texture of 92 yarns / inch and a weft density of 62 yarns / inch was obtained.

The basis weight of this woven fabric was measured.
It was 9 g / m ² . As a result of measuring the yarn interval variation rate,
The warp was 24% and the weft was 19%. As a result of measuring the parallelism of the woven yarn, the warp was 24% and the weft was 20%. The fiber surface area coefficient was 13.4. Further, the woven fabric was examined for the presence or absence of moiré phenomenon, transparency, and appearance of the woven fabric.

Comparative Example A polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn (90 denier / 12 filaments) spun at a spinning speed of 1100 m / min was subjected to a false twisting apparatus equipped with a 100 cm long heater, and the temperature of the heater was adjusted by 22
Stretching simultaneous false twisting was performed at 0 ° C., at a winding speed of 500 m / min, and at a stretch ratio of 3 times.

The false twisting device used was a triaxial friction type disk type false twisting device, and the peripheral speed of the disk was 800 m / min.

The obtained crimped yarn (30 denier / 12
After weaving using a filament and an expression torque of 300 T / M) for a warp and a weft, a 28% weight reduction process, relaxation,
Dyeing and finishing set were performed to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 92 yarns / inch and a weft density of 62 yarns / inch.

As a result of measuring the basis weight of this woven fabric, the result 2
It was ² g / m ² . As a result of measuring the yarn interval variation rate,
Warp 11% and weft 9%. As a result of measuring the parallelism of the woven yarn, the warp was 15% and the weft was 8%. The fiber surface area coefficient was 21.6. In addition, as for the woven fabric, as a result of examining the moiré phenomenon, a clear moiré phenomenon occurred.
Was good.

[0066]

As described above, the woven fabric for an interlining according to the present invention has no moire phenomenon due to the non-parallel woven yarn, has a small fiber surface area, has excellent transparency, and has a good woven appearance. It is.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged plan view of a woven fabric for explaining how to determine a yarn yarn interval variation rate and a yarn yarn parallelism ratio.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram for explaining an arrangement state of yarns.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram for explaining a moiré phenomenon.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram for explaining a moiré phenomenon.

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram for explaining the moire phenomenon.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram for explaining a moiré phenomenon.

FIG. 7 is an enlarged schematic view for explaining a moiré phenomenon.

FIG. 8 is a schematic diagram for explaining the principle of preventing the occurrence of the moiré phenomenon.

[Explanation of symbols]

 (B) Tight parallel lines (b) Rough parallel lines (c) Non-parallel lines

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Kunya Domichi Osaka Research Center, Teijin Limited 3-4-1, Amihara, Ibaraki-shi, Osaka

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A crimped yarn having a basis weight of 10 to 10.
In a woven fabric for an interlining fabric of 30 g / m ² , the weft and / or weft of the woven fabric has a weft spacing variation of 14 to 40%, and the warp and / or weft has a weft parallelism of 18 to 40%. A woven fabric for interlining, characterized in that: 2. The interlining fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp and / or weft yarns have a surface area coefficient of 8 to 16.