JP2639966B2 - Method of manufacturing super long cotton knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION << Industrial Application Field >> The present invention relates to a method for producing an ultra-long cotton fabric made of a synthetic fiber filament composite yarn.

«Conventional technology» In recent years, the demand for high-quality cotton, especially ultra-long cotton with a count of 60 or more, has been vigorous, and various attempts have been made to approach this feeling with synthetic fibers. The texture has reached a high level due to the development of yarn technology and yarn processing technology such as false twist and double-layer false twist composite yarn.

<< Problems to be solved by the invention >> However, the fluffiness of cotton that appeals to the sight cannot be expressed by this method.

As such an aim, one that uses a loop yarn formed by fluid turbulence processing has been developed.This is because the surface effect of the loop shows the fluffiness of cotton, but the swelling unique to ultra-long cotton, smooth surface touch, It was difficult to obtain firmness and waist due to high density.

An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a fabric having a smooth surface touch, a fluffiness, a firmness due to high density, and a feeling of waist, in addition to the feeling of ultra-long cotton.

<< Means for Solving the Problems >> In order to achieve the above object, the configuration of the present invention is as follows: single yarn denier is 1.5d or more, boiling water shrinkage is 12% or more,
A filament denier having a filament denier having a total denier of 60D or less as a core, a filament denier having a denier of 1.0 denier or less, a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less, and a filament denier having a total denier of 60D or less is used as a sheath. A core / sheath composite yarn comprising a polyester filament yarn of 90D or less, wherein a loop A according to the following definition is 300 or more, a loop B is 50 or more and a loop C is 10 or less. By subjecting a woven or knitted fabric made of yarn to a shrinkage treatment, a difference in shrinkage is caused between the filaments A and B, and a loop or filament of the filament B is developed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. It is a manufacturing method.

The loop A, loop B and loop C used here are a photoelectric fuzzy measuring device (TORAY FRAY COUNTER) for measuring the number of loops and the number of fluffs of a running yarn, and the yarn speed is 50 m / min and the running tension is 0.1 g / min. Measured under the condition of d, the number of loops / m protruding 0.15 mm or more from the yarn surface is Loop A, the number of loops / m protruding 0.35 mm or more is Loop B, and the number of loops / m protruding 0.6 mm or more is Loop C. It was done.

The above-mentioned core-sheath composite yarn is subjected to free shrinkage in hot water of 98 ° C. for 10 minutes in the state of a yarn, and then the dried loop B
Is preferably at least 1.5 times the number before heat treatment and the number of loops C is at least 50 loops / m.

Further, the above-described composite yarn can be used as a warp of a woven fabric, or both a warp and a weft. In this case, the cover factor of the warp is preferably 800 or more, more preferably 1100 or more in the state of the greige. When used for both warp and weft, the sum of the warp and weft cover factors is preferably 1500 to 2700, more preferably 1800 to 2500 in the state of the greige machine.

The cover factor is (Book / in).

On the other hand, in the case of knitting, in tricot and circular knitting,
It is preferably at least 28G, more preferably at least 32G.

Further, it is preferable to apply a twist of 300 T / m or more to at least the warp, since the feeling and the appearance become more like super long cotton.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

First, in order to express the fluffiness of ultra-long cotton, a composite yarn consisting of multi-filament yarns of different contraction with loops and tarmi added by fluid turbulence treatment is suitable, and the smooth surface touch of ultra-long cotton As a result of various studies, it has been found that a composite yarn having a total denier of 90D or less, preferably 70D or less, using a filament yarn of 1.0d or less, preferably 0.7d or less, is effective for obtaining a sheath yarn.

In general, ultra-long cotton is cotton with a relatively long fiber length, such as Egyptian cotton or sea-island cotton, that is at least 60 count, more particularly at least 80 count, and its fiber thickness is 10μ ~ 14
It is called μ.

As a result of examining this with a composite yarn having a loop and a tarmi on the surface by the fluid turbulence treatment of polyester yarn, it was found that the hardness of the filament yarn was 10 μ or more, that is, the filament yarn exceeding 1 d, the hardness remained and it was not good did.

Next, as a result of examining a single fiber denier of 1 d or less, a smooth surface touch was obtained, and particularly a 0.7 d or less (8.5 μ or less) was effective.

The reason for this is that, in the case of cotton, each single fiber is exposed on the surface due to the fluff, whereas the polyester composite yarn is a loop yarn, so that the two filaments feel the hardness of the filament. Presumed.

Next, in order to obtain high-density tension and waist of ultra-long cotton, it is necessary to weave at least the warp yarn at a high density. Obstructed and proved difficult.

Therefore, a method of reducing the loop size during weaving, shrinking the yarn in the dyeing process after weaving, causing the loop to appear on the fabric surface, and further increasing the density was studied.

In the composite yarn used in the present invention, the multifilament yarn (hereinafter, simply referred to as core yarn) relatively located on the core side is composed of a high shrinkage yarn, and the multifilament yarn (hereinafter, simply referred to as core yarn) relatively located on the sheath side. Consists of ordinary or low shrinkage yarn. And the number of loops and tarmi present in the composite yarn is small, the size is small, and the bulk height is relatively small.
In particular, loops and protrusions that protrude 0.6 mm or more from the yarn surface
It is characterized in that it is extremely small, that is, less than or less than pieces / m, and almost equal to almost none.

That is, the yarn passes through the compressed air turbulent flow region, is processed as an interlaced mixed fiber composite yarn, and is then subjected to a tensioning treatment, thereby rendering the loop latent so that the appearance as a bulky yarn is hardly seen. .

However, when the latent loop yarn is heat-treated in hot water at 98 ° C for 10 minutes without tension, the core yarn is composed of high shrinkage yarn and the sheath yarn is low shrinkage or ordinary shrinkage yarn. Contracts.

When the latent loop yarn itself shrinks, the filament of the core yarn and the filament of the sheath yarn constituting this yarn are entangled with each other by entanglement, and the sheath yarn is a normal shrinkage yarn or a low shrinkage yarn. The shrinkage of individual filaments is small, and the loops
It becomes bulky and becomes a bulky manifest loop yarn that protrudes from the yarn surface.

By heat treatment, the apparent loop yarn in which the loops and the tarmi were exposed, the loop B projecting 0.35 mm or more from the yarn surface was 1.5 times or more as compared with that before the treatment, and the loop C projecting 0.6 mm or more from the yarn surface was 50 pieces / m. This increases the bulkiness significantly.

As described above, in the composite yarn used in the present invention, loops and tarmi are latent during the production of the yarn, and the number of the loops C protruding from the yarn surface is extremely small. Therefore, the running resistance of the yarn is small since the bulk of the yarn itself is low and the yarn surface is relatively smooth. In particular, when used as a warp of a woven fabric, the heddle and the reed can pass well, and there is no entanglement between loops and no opening failure.

Then, at the time of dyeing after weaving, heat treatment (dry heat, wet heat, steaming heat) is performed alone or in combination with dyeing under high temperature and no tension, so that the loops and tarmi of the composite yarn are revealed. Thus, a high-density bulky fabric can be obtained.

The figure is a schematic view showing an example of a method for producing a composite yarn used in the present invention.

As shown in the figure, the yarn 2 released from the core yarn package 1 is supplied via a first supply roller 3 to a processing device 4 which forms a turbulent airflow region.

On the other hand, the yarn 6 supplied from the sheath yarn package 5 is the second yarn.
Is supplied to the processing apparatus 4 via the supply roller 7 of the first embodiment. These yarns 2 and 6 are simultaneously passed through appropriate guides 8 and 9 to the processing device 4
Supplied to In addition, it can also be supplied directly from the guide 8 to the processing device 4.

The two yarns 2, 6 that have passed through the compressed air turbulence region generated in the processing device 4 become a loop yarn 10 and pass through the first take-up roller 11 and the second take-up roller 12, and further the winding device 13 It is wound up by the package 14 through. The first
The yarn is tensioned between the take-up roller 11 and the second take-up roller 12.

This tension is preferable because it has an effect of eliminating large loops and loops of the loop yarn, and does not significantly affect the occurrence of loops and loops which become apparent by the heat treatment. If the tension is small, the effect of eliminating loops and tarmi is small. If the tension is too large, even minute loops of the loop yarn formed in the turbulent region of the pneumatic air are undesirably eliminated. It is preferable that the loop be erased to such an extent that almost no loop can be seen on the yarn surface with the naked eye (a fine loop can be seen with a magnifying glass or a microscope).

The composite yarn used in the present invention is preferably processed under the following conditions.

Boiling water shrinkage rate of core yarn is 12% or more and single fiber fineness is 1.5d
Using a multifilament yarn having a total denier of 60D or less, a single fiber fineness of 1.5d or more for a sheath yarn and a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less, preferably 1.0d or less, preferably 0.7d or less, and a total of 60D
The following multifilament yarn is used.

These yarns are supplied from the individual supply rollers to the processing device 4 (pressurized air supply amount of 80 to 120 Nl / min) forming a compressed air turbulent flow area at different overfeed ratios, discharged from the processing device, entangled and mixed. The treated latent loop yarn is taken up by the same take-off roller after the tensioning treatment.

Here, the overfeed rate is defined as F (%) = (V ₁ −) where F ₁ is the feed rate and V ₂ is the surface velocity of the take-up roller. When the value of V ₂ ) / V ₂ × 100 becomes (+), it is called the overfeed rate.

The conditions may be determined so that the overfeed ratio α of the core yarn is 2 to 15% and the overfeed ratio β of the sheath yarn is 5 to 30%.

As a more preferable condition, the latent loop yarn drawn from the take-up roller is wound while being continuously tensioned by the second take-up roller at an underfeed rate of 0.4α to 0.8α with respect to the overfeed rate α of the core yarn. Is to take.

This tension is preferable because it has an effect of eliminating large loops and tarmi of the latent loop yarn, and does not significantly affect the occurrence of loops and tarmi which are revealed by the heat treatment.

If the tension is small, the effect of eliminating loops and tarmi is small, and if the tension is too large, the loops B and A of latent loop yarns formed in the turbulent region of the pneumatic air are undesirably eliminated.

Example Polyester multifilament yarn 20D-8 was used as the core yarn.
f, using 20% boiling water shrinkage factor, polyester multifilament yarn 20D-48f for sheath yarn, boiling water shrinkage factor 8%
The overfeed rate of the core yarn is + 9%, the overfeed rate of the sheath yarn is + 15%, the feed rate between the first take-up roller and the second take-up roller is -5.4%, and the supply amount of compressed air is 90Nl /. Worked with a turbulent nozzle of min.

The properties of the processed yarn are as follows: Fineness 43D Boiling water shrinkage 19.2% Number of loops Before processing Loop A 330 pcs / m ル ー プ Loop B 71 〃 Ｃ Loop C 1 〃 Number of loops After processing Loop A 441 〃 〃 Loop B 328 〃 ル ー プ Loop C 86 を This yarn was woven in a flat structure at a warp density of 180 yarns / in and a weft density of 130 yarns / in, and was subjected to 98 ° C. relaxation processing and 130 ° C. dyeing processing.

As a result, the fabric shrinks to a warp density of 225 fibers / in and a weft density of 156 fibers / in, and fine loops appear on the surface of the fabric.
A waist-rich fabric was obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

The figure is a schematic view showing an example of a method for producing a composite entangled mixed yarn used in the present invention. 1,5: package, 2,6: yarn 3,7: yarn feed roller, 4: processing device 10: entangled mixed yarn, 11: first take-up roller 12: second take-up roller, 13: take-up device 14 :package

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (72) Inventor Akira Ogawa 3-3-1-3 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Toray Industries, Inc. Osaka Head Office (72) Inventor Toshiaki Miura Kami-Miyake, Heiwacho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture No. 1 Yashiki 1 Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Tokai Factory (72) Inventor Minoru Shiojima 1 Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Tokai Factory No. 1 Kamimiyake, Kamimiyake, Heiwacho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture (56) References JP-A-64-20350 (JP, A) JP-A-63-182443 (JP, A) JP-B-61-40778 (JP, B2)

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. Single yarn denier is 1.5d or more, boiling water shrinkage ratio is
12% or more and filament denier A having a total denier of 60D or less, and a single yarn denier of 1.0 denier or less,
Boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less and total denier of 60D
A core-sheath composite yarn composed of a polyester-based filament yarn having a total denier of 90 D or less having the following filament yarn B as a sheath portion, and a loop A defined by the following definition is 300 / m
As described above, the shrinkage treatment is performed on the woven / knitted fabric made of the core-sheath composite yarn having the loop B of 50 k / m or more and the loop C of 10 k / m or less, thereby causing a difference in shrinkage between the filaments A and B. A method for producing a super-long cotton knitted fabric, characterized in that filaments B and filaments of filament B are expressed on the surface of the knitted fabric. The loops A, B, and C referred to herein are photoelectric fluff measuring machines (TO) that measure the number of loops and the number of fluffs of a running yarn.
Using a RAY FRAY COUNTER), measure at a yarn speed of 50 m / min and a running tension of 0.1 g / d. The number of loops / m projecting 0.15 mm or more from the yarn surface is Loop A, the number of loops projecting 0.35 mm or more / m Are loops B, and the number of loops / m protruding 0.6 mm or more is defined as loop C.