JP2007231434A - Woven fabric for interlining - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric for soft interlining, which is thin and soft, and also good in transparency and causing no moire phenomenon through advancing the rationalization of the various physical properties (tenacity, elongation, heat shrinkage, crimp elongation percentage, crimp contraction fastness, etc.), weaving conditions and processing conditions of a polyester false-twist textured yarn. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric for interlining is such that a polyester multifilament false-twist textured yarn is used as warps and/or wefts, wherein the polyester multifilament false-twist textured yarn has a single filament fineness of 0.3-2.0 dtex, a total fineness of 7-17 dtex, a crimp contraction fastness(CD) of 20-35%, and a moist heat torque(TQ2) of 350-700 turns/m. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to an adhesive interlining fabric used for sewing products and the like. More particularly, the present invention relates to a soft interlining fabric suitable for thin outer use such as shirts and ladies' blouses.

  Conventionally, when sewing clothes, shirts, blouses, and the like, the interlining has been widely used to maintain the shape (silhouette) of the sewing product and to further improve the handling of the sewing process such as cutting and sewing. Recently, the surface material has been thinned from the viewpoint of fashionability, and the adhesive interlining can be seen through from the surface, and there is a problem that striped moire phenomenon due to density interference between the outer fabric and the interlining fabric tends to occur. . There are many proposals as a method for preventing the moire phenomenon and suppressing the deterioration of the texture and appearance quality of the outer surface.

There has been proposed a technique in which a woven fabric is randomized by weaving and processing a polyester false twisted yarn having a large single fiber fineness, and moire phenomenon that is an interference fringe is suppressed. (For example, refer to Patent Documents 1 and 2.) However, since the single fiber fineness is as large as 2.2 to 11 dtex, it becomes an interlining having an excellent stretch feeling, but lacks drape and forms against deformation of the outer material. The followability is poor and unsuitable for thin land use. Moreover, since the torque becomes high, the handling property of false twisted yarn in the weaving preparation process and the weaving process is often hindered.
JP-A-10-102344 JP-A-9-111578

In addition, a method for improving the transparency and preventing the moire phenomenon by using a polyester bright multifilament having an irregular cross section (triangular cross section) has been proposed. (For example, refer to Patent Documents 3 and 4.) The aim is to keep the single fiber fineness and the total fineness small, and to improve the softness and transparency, and the form followability with the outer material. However, since the single fiber fineness and the total fineness are small in the melt spinning of polyester, the molten polymer residence time in the polymer pipe and the die apparatus is inevitably long, and it is susceptible to polyester hydrolysis, and the inherent viscosity is unavoidable. When melt extrusion is performed with a slit-shaped die device for irregular cross-section fibers, the cross-sectional shape often lacks stability unless the polymer has a certain degree of intrinsic viscosity, which may impair the dyeability of the resulting yarn. There is. Further, in the false twisting process and the subsequent processes, there are many problems in terms of quality and operability such as yarn breakage and fluff.
JP 2005-36332 A JP 2005-188003 A

  In view of the background and problems of the related art, the inventors have intensively studied to arrive at the present invention. The present invention pays attention to various physical properties (strength, elongation, heat shrinkage rate, crimp elongation rate, crimp fastness, etc.) of polyester false twisted yarn and promotes optimization of weaving and processing conditions to make it thin and soft. It is another object of the present invention to provide a soft interlining fabric that is excellent in transparency and does not cause a moire phenomenon.

The present invention has the following configuration.
1. A fabric for interlining using polyester multifilament false twisted yarn as warp and / or weft, wherein the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn has a single fiber fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 2.0 dtex or less, and a total fineness of 7 A woven fabric for interlining characterized by having a crimp fastness (CD) of 20% to 35% and a wet heat torque (TQ2) of 350 times / m to 700 times / m.
2. The woven fabric for interlining according to the first aspect, wherein the crimp elongation (CC) of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn is 40% or more and 70% or less.
3. The interwoven fabric according to the first or second aspect, wherein the polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn contains 0.01 to 0.30 wt% of inorganic fine particles.
4). The fabric for interlining according to any one of the first to third aspects, wherein the cover factor (CF value) of the fabric is 500 or more and 1000 or less.
5). The fabric for interlining according to any one of the first to fourth aspects, wherein the fabric weight is 10 g / m ² or more and 25 g / m ² or less.

  The woven fabric for interlining of the present invention is excellent in transparency, thin and soft, has good shape followability to deformation of the outer material, good dimensional tracking, and is highly stretchable. When a relatively thin outer material such as a blouse or shirt is used However, the appearance quality is not impaired without causing the moire phenomenon. Moreover, since the texture is soft, it is excellent in drape and the silhouette of the sewn product is beautiful, so that a soft interlining suitable for women's clothing can be obtained.

The present invention will be specifically described below.
The single fiber fineness of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn used in the interwoven fabric of the present invention is in the range of 0.3 dtex to 2.0 dtex, more preferably in the range of 0.5 dtex to 1.5 dtex. is there. When the single fiber fineness is less than 0.3 dtex, the fiber becomes very soft, but the feeling of tightness is poor, and when used as an interlining, it is not preferable from the viewpoint of tailoring. On the other hand, in the range exceeding 2.0 decitex, it becomes an excellent interlining feeling, but on the contrary, it is finished in a crisp feeling, which is also not preferable because the tension of the sewn product becomes stronger. .

  The total fineness of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn used for the interlining fabric of the present invention is in the range of 7 dtex to 17 dtex, more preferably 10 dtex to 17 dtex. If the total fineness is less than 7 dtex, it is not preferable from the viewpoint of weaving and other process passability. Further, in the range exceeding 17 dtex, the transparency of the interlining fabric is likely to be insufficient, which is not preferable.

  The crimp fastness (CD) is in the range of 20% to 35%, preferably 25% to 35%. The crimp fastness (CD) evaluates the ease of crimping, and if it is less than 20%, the crimping due to wet heat treatment such as dyeing becomes large, and the followability to deformation of the surface is insufficient. It is not so preferable because it tends to become. Further, in order to obtain a range exceeding 35%, a particularly high false twist heat fixing temperature is set in the false twisting process, but it is not so preferable because an untwisted problem tends to occur.

  The crimp elongation (CC) of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn is in the range of 40% to 70%, more preferably 50% to 70%. If the crimp elongation (CC) is less than 40%, it is difficult to follow the deformation of the surface material, which is not preferable. On the other hand, in the range exceeding 70%, the thickness of the cloth becomes large and the transparency tends to be insufficient, and a feeling of fluffiness tends to occur, which is not so preferable.

  The wet heat torque is 350 times / m or more and 700 times / m or less, preferably 400 times / m or more and 600 times / m or less. The texture points of the warp and weft constituting the woven fabric are randomized by the torque generated by wet heat, and the occurrence of the moire phenomenon can be prevented. Moist heat torque of less than 350 times / m is not preferable because it does not have an effect of disturbing the arrangement of the texture points of the woven fabric structure, and moire tends to occur. In addition, those having a wet heat torque exceeding 700 times / m are not preferred because they tend to cause a corner-like defect called billi or snare and protrude from the fabric surface.

  The interwoven fabric of the present invention is preferably made of a polyester multifilament. The polyester referred to in the present invention is polyethylene terephthalate whose main acid component is terephthalic acid or a derivative thereof, and whose main glycol component is ethylene glycol, but 20 mol% or less aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or ester-forming derivatives thereof as the acid component. An aromatic dicarboxylic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof can be contained as a copolymerization component. Moreover, 20 mol% or less of oxycarboxylic acid or its ester-forming derivative may be included in the acid component. As a glycol component, 20 mol% or less of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,10-decamethylene glycol, 4, 4-dihydroxybisphenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, 2,5-naphthalenediol, glycols obtained by adding ethylene oxide to these glycols, polyethylene glycol, and the like can be included. Also, biodegradable aliphatic polyesters such as polylactic acid and poly-3-hydroxybutyric acid may be used. In particular, polyethylene terephthalate is preferable in consideration of mechanical properties, versatility, cost, and the like.

  The polyester multifilament used for the interlining fabric of the present invention contains 0.01 to 0.30 wt%, preferably 0.02 to 0.02 wt% of inorganic fine particles such as titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, and silicon dioxide. What contains 25 weight% or less is preferable. If the content of the inorganic fine particles exceeds 0.30% by weight, the transparency tends to decrease, which is not preferable for use as an interlining. In order to increase transparency, it is preferable to keep the amount of inorganic fine particles smaller. However, since inorganic fine particles can be expected to have a polymer lubricant effect during polyester melt spinning, 0 is considered in consideration of operability, fractionation, and yarn physical properties. It is preferable to contain 0.01% by weight or more.

  The cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament used for false twisting is most preferably a round cross-section. It may be an irregular cross section such as a triangular cross section, flat cross section, multi-leaf cross section, hollow cross section, etc., but because the single fiber fineness and total fineness are both small, the residence time in the polymer flow path in the polyester melt spinning apparatus is long. Therefore, the decrease in intrinsic viscosity due to ester hydrolysis becomes larger than usual. Many melt-spun spinnerets of irregular cross-section yarns are slit-shaped, and the cross-section formability tends to be insufficient compared to a round cross-section, and in particular, the stability of the cross-section tends to be insufficient for polymers with reduced intrinsic viscosity. If the cross-sectional stability of the modified cross-section yarn is insufficient, the fluff, yarn breakage, and dyeability in the downstream process tend to be unsatisfactory, so that an unusually-shaped cross-section is not preferable.

  For false twisting of multifilaments, known false twisting methods such as magnet spindle (pin) false twist, multi-axis circumscribed (friction disk) friction false twist, and belt nip friction false twist can be employed. In consideration of productivity, operational stability, quality, etc., a multi-axis circumscribed type (friction disk) friction false twist is preferable. The multi-axis circumscribed type (friction disk) friction false twist tool can be appropriately adjusted in the number of twisted disks, the material, and the distance between the shafts in the configuration of guide disk / twisted disk / guide disk. Moreover, what is necessary is just to adjust various conditions, such as heater temperature, a processing speed, a thread supply rate, etc. suitably like other false twisting methods.

  In the false twisting process, a drawn yarn is used as a supply yarn, and undrawn yarn (UDY) and partially oriented yarn (POY) is used as a supply yarn to simultaneously draw and false twist. Any of the drawn false twisting (draw-texturing) may be performed, but in consideration of the crimp characteristics and wet heat torque of the obtained false twisted yarn, a method of using a drawn yarn as a feed yarn is more preferable. Further, when the false twisted yarn is wound around the package, it is preferable to use a pressure-air entanglement process such as an interlace to improve the convergence so that the handleability after the next process is improved.

  Moreover, as a method of fixing the false twist, only the first heater is heated and false twisted and fixed (1 heater false twist), and both the first and second heaters are heated and false twisted and fixed (2 heaters). Any one of false twists can be used, but to improve the crimp elongation (CC) and wet heat torque (TQ2) to prevent soft touch and moire phenomenon, use the above 1 heater false twist More preferably. Further, when winding the false twisted yarn, an appropriate amount of oiling can be carried out as necessary to prevent electrification and improve convergence.

  For weaving, known looms such as an air jet room, a water jet room, a rapier room, a projectile room, and a fly shuttle room can be used. In consideration of productivity and cost, it is preferable to use an air jet loom or a water jet loom. In the case of woven fabrics, it is of course possible to apply warp glue or oiling to improve the weaving properties as necessary.

As the woven structure of the woven fabric, it is possible to use a ternary structure such as a plain weave, satin weave, twill weave, and other changed structures, but a plain weave is more preferable. The cover factor (CF value) of the fabric is preferably 500 or more and 1000 or less, more preferably 500 or more and 750 or less. The cover factor (CF value) is produced based on the following formula.
Cover factor (CF value) = warp density [w / 2.54cm] x (total warp fineness [decitex]) ^1/2 + weft density [w / 2.54cm] x (total weft fineness [decitex]) ^{1 / 2}

  If the cover factor (CF value) is less than 500, it will be possible to produce a very thin, light and soft fabric for interlining. However, it is easy to cause misalignment and the adhesive resin will easily pass through when used as an adhesive interlining. The surface fabric may be contaminated, which is not preferable. Moreover, in the range exceeding 1000, a sense of see-through is insufficient, which is not preferable.

The fabric basis weight is 10 g / m ² or more and 25 g / m ² or less, preferably 10 g / m ² or more and 17 g / m ² or less. In the range of less than 10 g / m ² , the transparency, lightness, and fabric thickness are very good, but it is not preferred because it tends to cause a fray. Moreover, in the range exceeding 25 g / m ² , transparency and lightness are poor, which is not preferable.

  The dyeing process proceeds in the order of disassembling the machine, sewing the machine, spreading the relaxation, presetting, reducing the alkali, dyeing, finishing set, finishing inspection, and packing and shipping. Regarding the weight loss of alkali, the weight loss rate may be set as appropriate in consideration of drape and tightness. Any process can be carried out using a commercially available or known apparatus. In the spread relaxation, it is preferable to treat by a method in which excessive tension is not applied. As for the alkali weight loss, a continuous weight loss by the pad steam method, etc. is suitably employed in addition to the weight loss and liquid flow loss. In addition to liquid flow dyeing, dyeing can be carried out using a known dyeing machine such as airflow dyeing, beam dyeing, Wins dyeing, jigger dyeing, continuous dyeing (hot-flue), cold batch dyeing and the like. In view of the mayole and the like, a spread-type treatment is preferable, and a high-pressure jigger dyeing machine or the like is preferably used.

Adhesive interlining is generally made of acrylic, polyolefin, polyurethane, polyamide, polyester, polyvinyl chloride, or other thermoplastic resin in the form of dots using a roll screen in the form of an emulsion (textile for interlining) ) It is obtained by transferring to the surface and then fixing by heating. In the sewing process, the adhesive interlining and the outer material are melt-bonded and integrated by thermocompression bonding. Since the flexibility of the interlining fabric is hindered as the dot density increases, the dot density is usually in the range of preferably about 400 to 1300 points / 6.45 cm ² (1 inch square).

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples. Needless to say, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. Further, the characteristic values in the text and the examples are obtained by the following evaluation methods. The evaluation was carried out in a measurement room controlled in a standard state (temperature 20 ± 2 ° C., humidity 65 ± 5% RH).

(Intrinsic viscosity [η])
It measured at 20 degreeC by the 4-point dilution method using the Ubbelohde viscometer using the mixed solution of phenol / tetrachloroethane = 6/4 (weight ratio).

(Crimp elongation (CC))
Using a lap reel with a frame circumference of 1.125m, while applying a winding tension of 0.1cN / dtex, create a casserole (yarn length 9m) 8 times and hang it on the hook to apply lapisol solution 2g / dm ³ Immerse in hot water adjusted to the concentration at 98 ± 2 ° C under no load for 5 minutes, take out the sample and leave it in a wet state, and apply a load of display fineness (decitex) x 0.18 x 8 x 2g to 1 The length a after minutes is measured. Then, after lightly draining water and drying with hot air at an ambient temperature of 60 ° C. for 30 minutes, it is allowed to stand at room temperature for 1 hour or more, and a load of (2/1000) × 8 × 0.18 × display fineness (decitex) g is applied again. The length b after 1 minute is measured. The obtained numerical value is substituted into the following equation to calculate the crimp expansion rate (CC). The average value of 5 measurements was determined as a characteristic value.
Crimp elongation (CC (%)) = [(ab) / a] × 100

(Crimping fastness (CD))
Display fineness (decitex) x 1/10 x 9/10 using a lap reel with a frame circumference of 1.125 m
Apply a load of g to make a casserole (thread length 9m) 8 times, fold the fold into an 8-shaped shape and fold it in half and hang it on the hook twice to apply the lapisol solution at a concentration of 2 g / dm ³ Soaked in hot water of 98 ± 2 ° C. adjusted in step 15 under a load of display fineness (decitex) × 5/1000 × 9/10 g for 15 minutes. After dipping, remove the load and remove the load. Then, return to the original state of the 8th case and apply a load of display fineness (decitex) x 2/10 x 9/10 g to obtain the yarn length c after 1 minute. taking measurement. After drying for 30 minutes in a dryer having an atmospheric temperature of 60 ± 2 ° C. with no load except for the load, leave it at room temperature for 60 minutes and apply a load of display fineness (decitex) × 2/1000 × 9/10 g to 1 The yarn length d after minutes is measured. The obtained numerical value is substituted into the following equation to calculate crimp fastness (CD). The average value of 5 measurements was determined as a characteristic value.
Crimp fastness (CD (%)) = [(cd) / c] × 100

(Moist heat torque (TQ2))
The yarn wound around the bobbin is rolled off so as not to be untwisted, and a yarn length of about 1400 mm is sampled and fixed using a hook. Apply a load of display fineness (decitex) x 2 x 5/1000 x 9 / 10g to the center (near 700mm) so that the twist does not return, overlap both ends of the yarn (folded in half), and fasten both ends to the hook Leave for 10 minutes. The sample was heat-treated in 98 ± 2 ° C. hot water adjusted to a concentration of 2 g / dm ³ with the lapizole solution for 30 minutes, taken out, and then naturally dried on filter paper for 30 minutes. For the dried sample, apply a load of display fineness (decitex) x 2 x 1/10 x 9/10 g using a tester, fix the chuck with a distance between chucks of 500 mm, and slowly untwist in the untwisting direction. Rotate while reading. This is carried out for 10 samples, and the average value is converted into the number of twists per meter to calculate the wet heat torque (TQ2). The unit is (times / m).

(Fabric weight)
The woven fabric is cut into 10 cm × 10 cm square (100 cm ² ) along the warp and weft directions and weighed (g) using an electronic balance (up to 4 decimal places). The obtained dough weight is calculated in terms of basis weight (g / m ² ). The average value of 5 measurements was determined as a characteristic value.

(Evaluation of moire phenomenon of interwoven fabric)
Cut two sheets of the interlining fabric into 10 cm × 10 cm square (100 cm ² ) along the warp and weft directions, and superimpose the two sheets so that the warp directions are parallel to each other. The case where the angle formed was varied from 0 ° to 90 ° and the moire phenomenon did not occur was evaluated as ◯, and the case where the clear moire phenomenon occurred was evaluated as x.

(Evaluation of the occurrence status of woven fabric for interlining)
The appearance inspection of the interlining fabric was carried out. The case where no deterioration in the appearance quality due to the mayor was confirmed was rated as “◯”, and the case where the appearance quality deterioration due to the mayor was confirmed as “×”. (Visual judgment)

(Texture judgment of interwoven fabric)
Ten experts have evaluated tactile feel from the viewpoint of texture, tension waist, etc. of the interlining fabric, ○, which is judged to have a good soft feeling and good tension feeling as an interlining cloth. Was determined to be unsuitable as an interlining due to excess or deficiency. (Tactile judgment)

Example 1
Polyester semidal round cross-section multifilament 12 decitex 12 filament using polyethylene terephthalate semidal resin with intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.633 and titanium dioxide (anatase type) content of 0.2% by weight according to known melt spinning method (Single fiber fineness 1.0 dtex) Ordinary drawn yarn was obtained. The polyester multifilament drawn yarn is used as a circumscribed type (friction disc type) friction false twisting device TMC-1 type manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd., the first heater temperature is 230 ° C., the disc configuration is 1-4-1, the disc surface speed and the yarn. Interlaced entanglement treatment of 100 pcs / m using a hemagerin (type 102 type) manufactured by Hebaline Co., Ltd. The oil was applied and wound up on a package. The properties of the obtained false twisted yarn were: crimp elongation (CC) 57.0%, crimp fastness (CD) 28.0%, wet heat torque (TQ2) 480 times / m.

The obtained polyester multifilament false twisted yarn was used as a warp and a weft and woven into a plain weave structure having a warp density of 92 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 68 yarns / 2.54 cm. Next, with respect to the obtained raw machine, the raw machine was disassembled and the sewing machine was joined, and the pre-bath temperature was 60 ± 2 ° C. and the main bath temperature was 95 ± with a continuous scouring machine (trade name: Softer) manufactured by Nisaka Manufacturing Co., Ltd. After scouring and relaxing under the condition of 2 ° C., drying was performed with a cylinder dryer having a surface temperature of 120 ° C. and setting with a heat setter was performed under an atmosphere temperature of 190 ° C. Thereafter, the pad was steamed with an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution with a weight reduction rate of 7% by the pad steam method. After acid neutralization, washing with water, and drying, disperse dye dyeing with a high-pressure jigger dyeing machine was performed at a bath temperature of 130 ° C., and finishing set was performed at an ambient temperature of 150 ° C. to obtain a woven fabric for interlining.
The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. The texture was soft and light, and no moire phenomenon was produced.

(Example 2)
Polyester semidal round cross-section multifilament 12 decitex 8 filament (single filament) using polyethylene terephthalate bright resin with intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.625 and titanium dioxide (anatase type) content of 0.02% by weight according to a known melt spinning method (Fiber fineness 1.5 dtex) Ordinary drawn yarn was obtained. The polyester multifilament drawn yarn was used as a circumscribed type (friction disc type) friction false twisting device TMC-1 type manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd., and the ratio of the first heater temperature 230 ° C., the disc surface speed and the yarn running speed (D / Y-ratio) is false twisted (1 heater false twist) under the condition of 1.8, and 80cm / m interlace entanglement treatment is performed using Hebaline hemagjet (type 102 type) to give oil. Rolled up in a package. The properties of the obtained false twisted yarn were: crimp elongation (CC) of 54.0%, crimp fastness (CD) of 27.5%, wet heat torque (TQ2) of 560 times / m.

  The obtained polyester multifilament false twisted yarn was used as a warp and a weft and woven into a plain weave structure having a warp density of 100 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 / 2.54 cm. Next, with respect to the obtained raw machine, the raw machine was disassembled and the sewing machine was joined, and the pre-bath temperature was 60 ± 2 ° C. and the main bath temperature was 95 ± with a continuous scouring machine (trade name: Softer) manufactured by Nisaka Manufacturing Co., Ltd. under spreading conditions. After scouring and relaxing under the condition of 2 ° C., drying was performed with a cylinder dryer having a surface temperature of 120 ° C. and setting with a heat setter was performed under an atmosphere temperature of 190 ° C. Thereafter, an alkaline weight reduction of 10% by a pad steam method was performed on an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution with a pad steamer. After acid neutralization, washing with water, and drying, disperse dye dyeing with a high-pressure jigger dyeing machine was performed at a bath temperature of 130 ° C., and finishing set was performed at an ambient temperature of 150 ° C. to obtain a woven fabric for interlining. The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. The texture was soft and light, and no moire phenomenon was produced.

(Example 3)
Polyester semidal round cross-section multifilament 12 dtex 6 filament (single filament) using polyethylene terephthalate bright resin with intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.625 and titanium dioxide (anatase type) content of 0.02% by weight according to a known melt spinning method (Fiber fineness 2.0 dtex) Ordinary drawn yarn was obtained. The polyester multifilament drawn yarn was used as a circumscribed type (friction disc type) friction false twisting device TMC-1 type manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd., and the ratio of the first heater temperature 230 ° C., the disc surface speed and the yarn running speed (D / (Y ratio) is false twisted (1 heater false twist) under the condition of 1.8, and 75 / m interlace entanglement treatment is performed using a hemaline (type 102 type) made by Hebaline and oil is applied. Rolled up in a package. The properties of the false twisted yarn obtained were 52.0% crimp elongation (CC), 25.5% crimp fastness (CD), and wet heat torque (TQ2) 620 times / m.

  The obtained polyester multifilament false twisted yarn was used as a warp and a weft and woven into a plain weave structure with a warp density of 96 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 68 / 2.54 cm. Next, with respect to the obtained raw machine, the raw machine was disassembled and the sewing machine was joined, and the pre-bath temperature was 60 ± 2 ° C. and the main bath temperature was 95 ± with a continuous scouring machine (trade name: Softer) manufactured by Nisaka Manufacturing Co., Ltd. under spreading conditions. After scouring and relaxing under the condition of 2 ° C., drying was performed with a cylinder dryer having a surface temperature of 120 ° C. and setting with a heat setter was performed under an atmosphere temperature of 190 ° C. Thereafter, an alkaline weight reduction of 10% by a pad steam method was performed on an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution with a pad steamer. After acid neutralization, washing with water, and drying, disperse dye dyeing with a high-pressure jigger dyeing machine was performed at a bath temperature of 130 ° C., and finishing set was performed at an ambient temperature of 150 ° C. to obtain a woven fabric for interlining. The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. It was light and suitable for a fabric for interlining, with no moire phenomenon and moderate tension.

(Comparative Example 1)
A woven fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyester multifilament normal drawn yarn obtained by melt spinning was changed to a circular cross-sectional yarn of 12 dtex 48 filament (single fiber fineness 0.25 dtex). The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. Although it was light and moire phenomenon did not occur, it was too soft and lacked a feeling of low waist and was not preferable as a fabric for interlining.

(Comparative Example 2)
A woven fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyester multifilament normal drawn yarn obtained by melt spinning was made into a circular cross-sectional yarn of 12 dtex 5 filament (single fiber fineness 2.5 dtex). The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. Although it was light and moire phenomenon did not occur, it was a little too stretchy and not preferred as a soft interlining.

(Comparative Example 3)
Polyester semidal round cross-section using polyethylene terephthalate semidal resin with intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.633 and titanium dioxide (anatase type) content of 0.2% by weight to limit the discharge rate of molten polymer single holes in the spinneret Production of multi-filament 6 dtex 12 filaments (single fiber fineness 0.5 dtex) normal drawn yarn was attempted. However, the residence time in the molten polymer flow path becomes too long, and discharge failure, yarn breakage, and fluff generation due to accelerated ester hydrolysis are remarkably difficult to obtain as a multifilament yarn itself. Also, the spinning operability was extremely deteriorated and commercial production was difficult.

(Comparative Example 4)
Using a polyethylene terephthalate semidal resin with an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.633 and a titanium dioxide (anatase type) content of 0.2% by weight, the amount of molten polymer single holes in the spinneret is adjusted, and a polyester semidal round A cross-sectional multifilament 33 dtex 36 filament (single fiber fineness 0.9 dtex) normal drawn yarn was obtained. The polyester multifilament drawn yarn was subjected to TMT Machinery's circumscribed type (friction disc type) friction false twisting device TMC-1 type, the first heater temperature being 240 ° C., the ratio of the disc surface speed to the yarn running speed (D / Y ratio) is set to 1.6 under false twisting (1 heater false twist), hebaline hemajet (type 102 type) is used to perform interlaced entanglement treatment of 100 pcs / m, and oil is applied. Rolled up in a package. The properties of the obtained false twisted yarn were: crimp elongation (CC): 48.3%, crimp fastness (CD): 24.5%, wet heat torque (TQ2): 425 times / m.

  The obtained polyester multifilament false twisted yarn was used as a warp and a weft and woven into a plain weave structure with a warp density of 94 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 67 / 2.54 cm. Next, with respect to the obtained raw machine, the raw machine was disassembled and the sewing machine was joined, and the pre-bath temperature was 60 ± 2 ° C. and the main bath temperature was 95 ± with a continuous scouring machine (trade name: Softer) manufactured by Nisaka Manufacturing Co., Ltd. under spreading conditions. After scouring and relaxing under the condition of 2 ° C., drying was performed with a cylinder dryer having a surface temperature of 120 ° C. and setting with a heat setter was performed under an atmosphere temperature of 190 ° C. Thereafter, an alkaline weight reduction of 10% by a pad steam method was performed on an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution with a pad steamer. After acid neutralization, washing with water, and drying, disperse dye dyeing with a high-pressure jigger dyeing machine was performed at a bath temperature of 130 ° C., and finishing set was performed at an ambient temperature of 150 ° C. to obtain a woven fabric for interlining. The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. Although the moire phenomenon did not occur and it was moderately stretchy, it was thick and insufficient in transparency.

(Comparative Example 5)
Polyester semidull round cross section multifilament 12 dtex 12 filament (single fiber fineness 1.0 dtex) obtained in Example 1 using a normal drawn yarn, the first heater temperature 180 ° C., the ratio of the disk surface speed and the yarn running speed A false twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that (D / Y ratio) was changed to 1.5. The properties of the false twisted yarn obtained were 38.5% crimp elongation (CC), 18.8% crimp fastness (CD), and 420 heat / m wet heat torque (TQ2). Using the false twisted yarn as the warp and weft of the fabric, a fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. Although it was finished to be thin and light, the settling of the crimp in the dyeing process was large, and considering the followability to the deformation of the outer surface, it lacked stretch properties and was not preferable as a fabric for interlining.

(Comparative Example 6)
Polyester semidull round cross section multifilament 12 dtex 12 filament (single fiber fineness 1.0 dtex) obtained in Example 1 using a normal drawn yarn, the ratio of the first heater temperature 230 ° C., the disk surface speed and the yarn running speed A false twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the (D / Y ratio) was 1.7, the second heater temperature was 240 ° C., and the two heater false twisted yarn was used. The obtained false twisted yarn had physical properties of crimp elongation (CC) of 45.0%, crimp fastness (CD) of 36.2%, and wet heat torque (TQ2) of 330 times / m. Using the false twisted yarn as the warp and weft of the fabric, a fabric for interlining was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The characteristic values and other evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1. Although it was thin and light, the settling due to the dyeing process was small, but due to the effect of promoting crystallization, the process shrinkage was small, and it was easy to cause a fray. In addition, since the moist heat torque remains small, the texture point of the woven structure is less disturbed and moire is confirmed, which is not preferable as a fabric for interlining.

  INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric for interlining that is thin, soft and lightweight, has excellent transparency, and does not cause a moire phenomenon.

2 is a surface photomicrograph of the textile interlining of Example 1. 6 is a surface micrograph of a textile interlining of Comparative Example 4.

Claims (5)

  A fabric for interlining using polyester multifilament false twisted yarn as warp and / or weft, wherein the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn has a single fiber fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 2.0 dtex or less, and a total fineness of 7 A woven fabric for interlining characterized by having a crimp fastness (CD) of 20% to 35% and a wet heat torque (TQ2) of 350 times / m to 700 times / m.   The interwoven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the crimp elongation (CC) of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn is 40% or more and 70% or less.   The interwoven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn contains 0.01 to 0.30 wt% of inorganic fine particles.   The fabric for interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cover factor (CF value) of the fabric is 500 or more and 1000 or less. Interlining textile according to claim 1 fabric basis weight is 25 g / m ² or less 10 g / m ² or more.