JP3103003B2 - Woven interlining - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric interlining having few moiré stripes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, interlining has been used in the manufacture of clothes from the viewpoints of formability, texture adjustment, ease of sewing, and the like.

The most important performance required for interlining is that it can sufficiently follow the dimensional change of the outer material. To satisfy such performance, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937 discloses warp and weft yarns. A woven fabric interlining using a false twisted yarn having a total crimp ratio of 15 to 40% and having improved dimensional followability to a surface material has been proposed.

[0004] However, recently, clothing materials (outer fabrics) have become thinner and easier to penetrate, and when a woven interlining is used for such a translucent outer fabric, the woven yarn of the outer fabric and the woven yarn of the interlining interfere with each other. Then, a pattern called Moiré fringes appears. In particular, this phenomenon is remarkable in an adhesive interlining.

[0005] These moiré stripes are extremely unpleasant in the appearance of clothes, and have become a major problem in the sewing industry.

As an interlining for preventing the occurrence of moiré stripes, a nonwoven interlining having no woven structure is known.
Nonwoven fabric interlining has a drawback that the deformation due to external force is large and the texture of the surface material may be impaired.

Further, as a method for preventing the occurrence of moiré stripes in a fabric interlining, a twill structure, a satin structure,
Alternatively, a method of using a satin texture in which organization points are randomized is known.

However, the woven fabric interlining obtained by these methods is
In reality, the effect of preventing moiré fringes is small and the number of texture points is small, so that it is easy to cause kinking (phenomenon in which the yarn moves), the function of the interlining cannot be sufficiently exhibited, and the cost of weaving increases. There is.

As described above, a woven fabric interlining capable of actually preventing the occurrence of moiré fringes has not been known so far, and when it is absolutely necessary to prevent moiré fringes,
The fabric interlining is cut diagonally and used. However, in this method, sewing work is extremely complicated and expensive, and
Since the direction of deformation due to an external force is different, there is a problem that the change of the feeling of the outer material becomes large.

[0010]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, to prevent the occurrence of moiré stripes at low cost, and to keep the texture of the surface material intact. To provide interlining.

[0011]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and have found that the warp and / or the weft constituting the woven fabric interlining have a planar shape along the warp / weft direction of the woven fabric. It has been clarified that a desired woven fabric interlining can be obtained when a bend is given to prevent periodic overlap with the warp or weft of the outer material.

Thus, according to the present invention, in a woven fabric interlining composed of a warp and a weft, the warp and / or the weft exhibit a plane bending state, wherein the warp and / or the weft each have the following formula (1): ~ (2) and the following formula (3) ~
A woven fabric interlining that satisfies the relationship (4) is provided.

[0013]

0.5 Mw ≦ Hw ≦ 2 Mw (1) Mw ≦ Lw ≦ 5 Mw (2) 0.5 Mf ≦ Hf ≦ 2 Mf (3) Mf ≦ Lf ≦ 5 Mf (4) where Hw and Lw are the warp groups, respectively. The average amplitude and average period length of the bend, and Mw represent the average yarn interval between warps adjacent to each other, Hf and Lf are the average amplitude and the average period length of the bend of the weft group, respectively, and Mf is the distance between the adjacent wefts. Mean yarn spacing.

The fibers used in the fabric interlining of the present invention include:
Examples thereof include polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, and polyacrylonitrile fibers.

The woven fabric interlining of the present invention requires that the warp and the weft have a specific bend. The bend means observing the surface of the interlining (the surface in contact with the outer material) from above. This means a planar bend that can be seen at the time of bending, and does not consider a bend in the thickness direction of the interlining.

In the woven fabric interlining of the present invention, the average amplitude Hw and average period length Lw of the warp bend and the average yarn interval Mw between the warp yarns adjacent to each other are represented by the above-mentioned equations (1) and (2). Or the average amplitude Hf and average cycle length Lf of the bending of the weft and the average yarn spacing Mf of the adjacent wefts are expressed by the above-mentioned expressions (3) and (4). You need to be satisfied.

Of course, when the warp satisfies the above formulas (1) and (2) and the weft also satisfies the above formulas (3) and (4), the moire fringe prevention effect is further improved, which is preferable. .

The average amplitudes Hw and Hf, the average cycle lengths Lw and Lf, and the average yarn intervals Mw and Mf are obtained from a region including five randomly selected warps and five wefts by the method described below. .

FIG. 1 is an enlarged model diagram of a woven fabric surface with a scale, showing an area including five randomly selected warps and five wefts.

First, a tangent line WL is drawn at the leftmost vertex a of an arbitrary warp W1. Next, the fifth warp W5 is moved rightward from W1.
A tangent line WR is drawn at the rightmost vertex b. Similarly, a tangent line FU is drawn at the top apex of an arbitrary weft thread F1, and 5
A tangent FD is drawn at the lowest vertex B of the weft yarn F5.

These four straight lines WL, WR, FU, F
In the region surrounded by D, average amplitudes Hw and Hf are obtained. First, the amplitude Hw1 of the leftmost vertex a and the rightmost vertex c of the warp W1 is determined. Similarly, warp W2, W
3, W4, and W5, the respective amplitudes Hw2, Hw
3, Hw4 and Hw5 are determined, and the average amplitude Hw of the warp is calculated by the following equation (5).

[0022]

Hw = (Hw1 + Hw2 + Hw3 + Hw4 + Hw5) / 5 (5)

On the other hand, the width Hf1 of the uppermost vertex A and the lowermost vertex C of the weft F1 is determined. Similarly, weft F
2, F3, F4, and F5, the respective amplitudes Hf
2, Hf3, Hf4, and Hf5 are obtained, and the average amplitude Hf of the weft is calculated by the following equation (6).

[0024]

Hf = (Hf1 + Hf2 + Hf3 + Hf4 + Hf5) / 5 (6)

The average yarn interval Mw between adjacent warps is
Using the interval TMw between the straight line WL and the straight line WR, and the average amplitude Hw of the warp previously obtained, it is calculated by the following equation (7).

[0026]

Mw = [TMw− (Hw / 2) × 2] / 4 (7)

That is, as shown in FIG. 2, the five warps W1 to W5 between the straight line WL and the straight line WR are assumed to be linear (the virtual straight lines are referred to as W1 'to W5'). The distance between the virtual straight lines W1 ′ and W5 ′ at both ends and the straight lines WL and WR is calculated as Hw / 2, subtracted from TMw and divided by 4.

Similarly, the average yarn interval Mf between the adjacent wefts is calculated by the following equation (8) using the interval TMf between the straight line FU and the straight line FD and the average amplitude Hf of the weft previously obtained. I do.

[0029]

Mf = [TMf− (Hf / 2) × 2] / 4 (8)

The average cycle length Lw of the warp is obtained by calculating the number nw of the vertexes of the warp bends existing in the region surrounded by the four straight lines WL, WR, FU, and FD, and calculating the straight line F
It is calculated by the following equation (9) using the interval TMf between U and the straight line FD. That is, straight lines WL, WR, F
U, the sum of the warp cycle lengths in the area surrounded by FD (TM
f × 5 (pieces)) by the number of cycles (nw / 2). Since one cycle always includes two vertices,
Half of the number of vertices is the number of periods.

[0031]

Lw = (TMf × 5 (lines)) / (nw / 2) (9)

Similarly, the average cycle length Lf of the weft is obtained by calculating the number nf of the vertexes of the warp of the weft present in the area surrounded by the four straight lines WL, WR, FU, and FD. Using the interval TMw between the WL and the straight line WR, it is calculated by the following equation (10).

[0033]

Lf = (TMw × 5 (lines)) / (nf / 2) (10)

In the above description, a model diagram is used for easy understanding. However, in actual measurement, a scale is put on an enlarged surface photograph of about 50 times (appropriately if it is a square lattice scale). The measurement may be performed by stacking films or the like. In practice, since the warp and the weft have a width, the measurement is performed on the center line and the center point of the yarn.

In the present invention, at least the average amplitude Hw of the warp bend is within the range shown by the above equation (1), or the average amplitude Hf of the bend of the weft is shown by the above equation (3). Must be within the range
If the average amplitudes Hw and Hf are too small compared to the average yarn intervals Mw and Mf, there is no effect of preventing generation of moire fringes. Conversely, if the average amplitudes Hw and Hf are too large, the dimensional stability deteriorates and the appearance of the fabric deteriorates. Appropriate.

Further, in the present invention, at least
It is necessary that the average cycle length Lw of the warp bend is within the range shown by the above equation (2), or the average cycle length Lf of the bend of the weft is within the range shown by the above equation (4). And the average cycle lengths Lw and Lf are equal to the average yarn interval M
If it is too large or too small as compared with w and Mf, the effect of preventing generation of moire fringes cannot be obtained.

That is, in order to reduce moiré stripes and obtain proper woven fabric characteristics, the fabric interlining of the present invention requires that the warp bends at least satisfy the above formulas (1) and (2). Or the bending of the weft is determined by the above equation (3),
(4) must be satisfied.

The warp and the weft having such a curvature include:
It is necessary to use a crimped yarn having a coarser crimp and a higher torque as compared with the crimped yarn used for a woven fabric and the like described in JP-A-62-97937.

For example, in the case of a false twisted yarn, a high orientation raw yarn (drawn yarn) is subjected to outdraw false twisting in place of a general-purpose indole false twisted yarn (POY-DTY yarn). The use of the false twisted yarn having a high crimp and a high torque obtained by reducing the number enables the above-described bending to be developed.

That is, the number of false twists is reduced to make the crimp coarser, and a highly oriented raw yarn (drawn yarn) is used to prevent the torque from being reduced due to the decrease in the number of false twists, and the yarn is bent. Is expressed.

The production conditions of the false twisted yarn may be appropriately set according to the fineness of the raw yarn to be used, the drawing conditions, etc., but the total crimp rate of the false twisted yarn is 2% or more and less than 15%, preferably 5 to 5%. 1
It is preferable that the torque is set so as to be 0% and the developing torque under a load of 0.002 g / denier is 400 to 900 T / M.

When the crimped yarn is a conjugate yarn, the composition of the composite component, the composite form, the cross-sectional shape, and the like are appropriately selected, the difference in shrinkage between the composite components is adjusted, so that the crimp is coarse and the torque is reduced. And the yarn may exhibit the above-mentioned bending.

In addition, a wooly yarn by a false twist type false twist method,
The crimped yarn by the knit denit method, the crimped yarn by the indentation method, and the like can also bend the yarn by appropriately setting the manufacturing conditions.

In the woven fabric interlining according to the present invention, the warp preferably satisfies the following formulas (1 ') and (2'), and the wefts have the following formulas (3 ') and (4'). Is preferably satisfied.

[0045]

Mw ≦ Hw ≦ 1.5Mw (1 ′) 2Mw ≦ Lw ≦ 4Mw (2 ′) Mf ≦ Hf ≦ 1.5Mf (3 ′) 2Mf ≦ Lf ≦ 4Mf (4 ′)

The thickness of the yarn used for the warp and the weft is
Although not particularly limited, a woven fabric interlining used for a thin outer material in which moiré stripes easily occur is, of course, a thin interlining,
For this reason, it is desirable that the thickness of the yarn is thin.
A range of 00 denier is preferably exemplified.

In the production of the woven fabric interlining of the present invention, the weaving conditions and finishing conditions used in the conventional woven fabric interlining can be adopted as they are, and the woven structure is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of productivity and cost. A flat tissue is preferably exemplified.

Further, the weaving density is not particularly limited, and may be arbitrarily set in a range such that the density employed in a normal woven fabric interlining, that is, the cover factor CF becomes about 600 to 1,000.

Here, the cover factor CF means the fineness (denier) of the warp and the weft of the woven fabric as Dw and Df, respectively, and the density of the warp and the weft of the woven fabric (the number of yarns per inch) as Nw and Nf, respectively. Is a value represented by the following equation.

[0050]

## EQU10 ## CF = Nw (Dw) ^1/2 + Nf (Df) ^1/2

The woven fabric interlining of the present invention may be any of an adhering interlining, a non-adhering interlining, and a temporary adhering interlining. Is remarkably exhibited, which is preferable.

[0052]

The moiré fringe is an interference phenomenon of the yarns caused by the periodic occurrence of some overlap between the interwoven yarns and the outer yarns.

This phenomenon occurs when (1) the overlapping of the opposing yarns of the superimposed woven fabric increases to such an extent as to be visually recognized by the naked eye, and (2) the yarns are arranged at equal intervals. Occurs when fabrics are overlaid.

That is, in the conventional woven fabric interlining and the outer fabric, moire fringes are visible in order to satisfy the above requirements (1) and (2).

On the other hand, in the woven fabric interlining according to the present invention, at least one of the warp and the weft has an appropriate bend, and the yarn interval (woven density) is set so as not to hinder the bend of the yarn. Therefore, the overlap with the straight warp and the weft of the outer material becomes a point-like overlap, avoiding the requirement of (1), making the overlap hard to be visually recognized by the naked eye, and making the moire stripes invisible.

It should be noted that even if the overlap of the woven yarn of the outer material and the woven yarn of the interlining is dotted, if they are densely continuous, they cannot be separated by the naked eye, they are visually recognized as linear overlaps, and they appear as moire fringes. Will be. For example, it is due to this phenomenon that a woven fabric interlining using a normal crimped yarn having a fine crimp generates moire fringes.

However, the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric interlining according to the present invention has a sufficiently large bend (crimp), so that the warp and / or the weft are within a range visible to the naked eye as a point-like overlap. Since the requirement of (1) is avoided, moire fringes cannot be seen.

Further, the yarn spacing of the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric interlining according to the present invention is substantially equal on average, but from a local point of view, the warp and / or weft warp causes the yarn spacing. It is randomized so that it does not overlap periodically even when the yarn is superimposed on equally spaced outer fabric. Therefore,
Since the requirement of (2) is avoided, moire fringes are not visible.

As described above, the woven fabric interlining according to the present invention avoids the occurrence of an interference phenomenon due to the warp and / or weft bending, and also makes use of the visual recognition limit of the overlap with the naked eye to form moire fringes. It has succeeded in preventing the occurrence.

[0060]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. In addition, each physical property in an Example was measured by the following method.

(1) Appearance Torque With a load of 0.002 g / de applied to the false-twisted crimped yarn, it was boiled in boiling water for 1 minute and expressed by the number of twists (T / M) of the developed torque. .

(2) Total crimp rate An initial load of 2 mg / de and 0.2 g / d were applied to
multiplied by the heavy load of e, determine its length l _0.

After removing only the heavy load and treating in boiling water for 30 minutes, the initial load is removed and the sample is air-dried for 24 hours.

Next, an initial load and a heavy load are applied, and the length l ₁
Ask for. Next, only the heavy load is removed and the length l
Ask for ₂ .

The total crimp rate (TC) is calculated by the following equation (1).

TC = {(l ₁ −l ₂ ) / l ₀ }

(3) Presence or absence of moire fringes A densimeter (a device for measuring the weaving density using interference fringes) is superimposed on the obtained fabric interlining, and the presence or absence of the occurrence of interference fringes is measured. Indicates the presence or absence of moiré fringes,
Very good ones without any interference fringes (Moire fringes)
When interference fringes (moiré fringes) were not conspicuous and there was no practical problem, ○ was shown, and when interference fringes (moiré fringes) were noticeable, x.

(4) Appearance of Interlining The appearance of the obtained woven interlining was organoleptically evaluated.

[Examples 1 to 4, Comparative Examples 1 to 3] A 30 denier / 12 filament drawn polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn was set at a false twist temperature of 200 ° C and an overfeed rate of 2%.
Then, the number of false twists was changed as shown in Table 1, and a spindle type outdraw false twisting was performed to obtain a false twisted crimped yarn having an expressed torque and a total crimp rate shown in Table 1.

Each false-twisted crimped yarn is used for warp and weft, and woven and finished in a conventional manner to give a warp density of 89 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 71 yarns / inch (cover factor CF = 876). ). Table 2 shows the properties of these woven interlinings.

The average amplitude Hw, average period length Lw, average yarn interval Mw, average amplitude Hf, average period length Lf, and average yarn interval Mf of the warp shown in Table 2 are obtained from the warp core obtained above. After randomly sampling a portion containing five weft yarns and taking an enlarged photograph of about 50 times, a transparent film having a grid line of 5 mm in pitch is superimposed on the photograph and read. The interval between them was represented by a relative value when 1 was set.

[0072]

[Table 1]

[0073]

[Table 2]

As shown in Table 2, the interlining fabric (Examples 1 to 4) of the present invention satisfies the above formulas (1) to (4).
There is no occurrence of moiré stripes, and the interlining appearance is also good.

[Comparative Example 4] In Example 1, a 45-denier / 12-filament polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY, birefringence 0.04) was subjected to a false twist temperature of 200 ° C and a draw ratio of 1.5 times. , False twist number 5500T /
In M, a false twisted crimped yarn subjected to Indian low friction false twisting was used for the warp and the weft, and the other conditions were the same as in Example 1, and the woven fabric interlining was woven.

The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

When a general-purpose Indian low false twisted crimped yarn is used as in Comparative Example 4, the crimp is too fine, the amplitude and the cycle length of both the warp and the weft are too small, and the moire fringe preventing effect is low. I was not able to admit.

Examples 5 to 8 and Comparative Examples 5 to 7
No. 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, no false twisting
0 denier / 12 filament drawn polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn was used for the warp.
4 and Comparative Examples 1-3, a woven interlining was woven. The properties of these woven interlinings were as shown in Table 3.

[0079]

[Table 3]

As shown in Table 3, the interlining fabric (Examples 5 to 8) of the present invention satisfies the above formulas (3) to (4).
There is no occurrence of moiré stripes, and the interlining appearance is also good.

[0081]

As described above, according to the woven fabric interlining of the present invention, since the warp and / or the weft have an appropriate bend, the occurrence of moire fringes can be prevented, and the interlining can be prevented. The appearance is also good.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged plan view schematically showing an example of a fabric interlining according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic plan view for explaining a method of calculating an average yarn interval Mw of warps.

[Explanation of symbols]

 W1 to W5 Warp F1 to F5 Weft Mw Average yarn interval of warp

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D03D 1/00 D03D 15/04 102

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] In a woven fabric interlining comprising a warp and a weft, the warp and / or the weft exhibit a planar bending state, wherein the warp and / or the weft each have the following formulas (1) to (2) and A woven fabric interlining, which satisfies the following expressions (3) to (4). 0.5 Mw ≦ Hw ≦ 2 Mw (1) Mw ≦ Lw ≦ 5 Mw (2) 0.5 Mf ≦ Hf ≦ 2 Mf (3) Mf ≦ Lf ≦ 5 Mf (4) (where Hw and Lw are warp yarns, respectively) The average amplitude and average cycle length of the bend of the group and Mw represent the average yarn interval between warps adjacent to each other, Hf and Lf are the average amplitude and the average cycle length of the bend of the weft group, and Mf is the weft adjacent to each other. Represents the average yarn spacing between them.)