JPS63275734A - Polyester composite processed yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a polyester composite textured yarn composed of filament groups of at least two different finenesses, and particularly a worsted-like texture suitable for spun-like woven and knitted fabrics for clothing. The present invention relates to a composite processed yarn suitable for textiles.

[Conventional technology] Worsted wool knitted fabrics have high bulk, soft touch, waist and resilience, and
-It has excellent elasticity and is widely used as outerwear material for autumn and winter.

False-twisted yarn was originally developed with the aim of creating bulky woven and knitted fabrics by having crimps similar to wool fibers, and polyester processed yarns have also been developed in the field of wool woven and knitted fabrics. is in progress.

However, when weaving polyester processed yarn into a worsted fabric, the filament fineness must be 1.0 to obtain a soft touch.
It is necessary to set it to 5 denier or less, and in this case, there is a drawback that only extremely low elasticity and resilience can be obtained. On the other hand, when the fineness was increased to Filamen 1 in an attempt to increase stiffness and resilience, the roughness and hardness only increased, and the result was something different from wool worsted fabrics, which have stiffness and resilience.

For this reason, various techniques have been proposed, such as using a yarn that is a blend of thick and fine filaments or adding fluff, but none of them has been able to satisfy both texture and processability.

Here, a number of improvement techniques have been proposed for core-sheath composite processed yarn in which a group of thick filaments is used as a core and a group of thick filaments is used as a sheath, since it can simultaneously impart soft touch, stiffness, and resilience. Among composite core-sheath processed yarns, the so-called so-called composite yarn has a structure in which the filament groups in the sheath section are wound around the filament group in the core section in an alternately twisted manner, and each filament is mixed and entangled with each other at the boundary between the core section and the sheath section. Alternately twisted/entangled type composite core-sheath false twisted yarn exhibits a good spun-like feel, and this technology is described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-101946.
JP-A-55-98913, JP-A-56-
There are many proposals such as Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 26025 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 58-15'6041.

Waist and
In order to improve the resilience, JP-A-57-29629 describes a technique in which the thick filaments in the core are 3 to 6 deniers, and the fine filaments in the sheath are 1 to 4 deniers. However, the processed yarn disclosed in this technique has the disadvantage that its waist and resilience are too low when it is made into a worsted fabric.

[Problems to be solved by the invention] Alternately twisted/alternately twisted type composite core-sheath false-twisted yarns obtained using conventional techniques cannot produce high-quality spun-like woven or knitted fabrics that have a soft touch and good waist and resilience. I couldn't get it.

In particular, when alkali weight reduction treatment is applied to emphasize the soft texture of woven or knitted fabrics, the stiffness and resilience of the woven or knitted fabrics are significantly reduced, which is why improvements have been desired.

The purpose of the present invention is to be able to suitably apply to high-grade spun-like woven and knitted fabrics that are excellent in soft touch, waist and resilience, especially worsted fabrics, which require particularly high levels of waist and resilience. To provide an alternately twisted/entangled type composite core-sheath false twisted yarn which can be suitably applied to high-grade worsted-like fabrics used in the field of men's outerwear for autumn and winter.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The object of the present invention is to provide a composite core-sheath false twisted yarn composed of at least two groups of polyester filaments having different filament finenesses, in which the thick filament constituting the core portion The filament fineness of the filament group is 7 to 12 deniers, and the filament fineness of the fine filament group constituting the sheath part is 0.7 to 3 deniers, and is wound around the core part in an alternately twisted manner, and This can be achieved by using a polyester composite textured yarn characterized in that each filament is mixed and intertwined with each other at the boundary with the sheath.

The yarn structure of the polyester composite processed yarn of the present invention is a core-sheath structure in which a group of thick filaments serves as a core and a group of fine filaments serves as a sheath. Further, the filament group of the sheath portion is wound around the filament group of the core portion in an alternately twisted manner, and each filament is mixed and intertwined with each other at the boundary between the core portion and the sheath portion. Because of this core-sheath structure, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric with a good spun-like appearance and feel, and it also prevents separation of the core and sheath parts, resulting in good passability during yarn processing, weaving, knitting and weaving processes. This provides stability in the longitudinal direction of the yarn structure.

The number of mixed confounds can be evaluated by the method for measuring the degree of confounding described below. The degree of entanglement is 150 pieces/piece to prevent the core and sheath from separating and form neps, and to improve the pile pilling properties.
m or more is preferable, and 200 pieces/m or more is more preferable.

If the degree of entanglement is too high, the spun-like appearance and texture will deteriorate, so it is preferably 450 pieces/m or less, and 400 pieces/m.
The following are more preferred.

The filament fineness of the thick filament group needs to be 7 to 12 deniers. If it is less than 7 denier, it will not be possible to obtain stiffness and resilience comparable to wool worsted fabric when it is made into a woven fabric. The higher the fineness, the better the elasticity and resilience, but if the fineness is greater than 12 denier, the roughness and hardness will become stronger. 7. To make a worsted fabric that does not have a rough and stiff feel and has excellent elasticity and resilience.
A range of 5 to 11 deniers is preferred.

The filament fineness of the fine filament group is 0.7 to 3.
It must be denier.

It is necessary to set the denier to 3 denier or less in order to impart a soft touch, but it is preferable to set the denier to 2.2 denier or less from the viewpoints of making the touch even softer, making it look like a worsted fabric, and improving the pile-pilling properties. On the other hand, if the denier is too fine, the touch will be too soft and the texture will be different from that of a worsted fabric, so it is necessary to set the denier to 0.7 or more. The finer the denier, the lower the anti-frosting properties, the lower the apparent dyeability, and the more difficult it becomes to darken the color, so it is preferable to use a denier of 1 or more.

The fineness ratio of the fineness filament group to the thick filament group is preferably 0.7 to 1.4. 0.7
If it is less than that, thick filaments tend to exist on the outer surface of the core-sheath processed yarn, resulting in a strong rough and hard feeling. If it is larger than 1.4, the soft touch will be emphasized and the waist and resilience will be insufficient. In addition, the ratio of the filament fineness of the thick filament group to the filament fineness of the fine filament group is 4 times or more to easily exhibit a spun-like appearance and texture effect.

The total fineness of the composite processed yarn is preferably in the range of 50 to 360 deniers. This is because if the fineness is too fine, the cost will increase significantly, and if the fineness is too large, the crimp development will decrease due to the lowering of the upper limit of the number of false twists during false twisting.

It is preferable that there is a yarn length difference between both filament groups of 5 to 30%, more preferably 7 to 25%. In order to create a structure in which the sheath is wrapped around the core, the sheath needs to be longer, which corresponds to the preferable lower limit value of the yarn length difference.

If the yarn length difference is too large, there will be disadvantages such as a rough texture, easy separation of the sheath and core, and reduced pill resistance.

Because the thick filament has a large fineness, it tends to generate a glare, so it is preferable to shape it into a 5 to 8 leaf cross section and make it non-glitter.

The polyester used in the present invention is mainly a polyester consisting of a terephthalic acid component and a glycol component such as ethylene glycol or tetramethylene glycol, but preferably a polyester containing 80 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate. Alternatively, it may be a polyester in which part of the terephthalic acid or part of the glycol component is replaced with another difunctional carboxylic acid or glycol component. Furthermore, various additives such as flame retardants, antistatic agents, hydrophilic agents, pigments, etc. can be added as necessary.

If fluff is present in the processed yarn, problems such as the occurrence of neps or yarn breakage in the processed yarn itself are likely to occur due to snagging on guides or entanglement of threads running in parallel during high-level processes such as weaving, knitting, and weaving. For this reason, it is preferable that the processed yarn is substantially free of fluff, and the number of fluffs is preferably 5 or less, more preferably 3 or less per meter of yarn.

The polyester composite textured yarn of the present invention can be suitably produced by the following method.

When at least two types of polyester filament groups having different filament finenesses are combined and false twisted to form a composite core-sheath false twisted yarn, the thick filament group has a birefringence that is at least 510' larger than the fineness filament group, The filament fineness after false twisting is 7 to 12 deniers, and the filament fineness after drawing and false twisting of the fine filament group is 0.
This is a method for producing a polyester composite textured yarn, which has a denier of 7 to 3 denier and is characterized in that both filament groups are subjected to interlacing and interlacing, and then false twisting.

The fine filament group is elongated to a greater extent than the low birefringence and thick filament group during false twisting, which contributes to the fine filament group becoming longer in yarn length and forming a sheath portion.

The thick filament group may not necessarily be an undrawn yarn but may be a drawn yarn, but in this case, the yarn length difference is 30
%, undrawn yarn is preferable since it tends to become bulky. Birefringence of both filament groups is 15-45X
Preparing an undrawn yarn with a birefringence difference of 5 to 30X10-3 within the range of 10"3 prevents processing and instability of yarn properties due to changes over time in the undrawn yarn, and achieves the desired yarn length difference. This is preferable from the point of view of imparting.

The interlacing can be preferably imparted by interlacing. In order to obtain an alternately twisted/interlaced type composite core-sheath false twisted yarn, the degree of entanglement is preferably 20 to 80 threads/m.

The false twisting condition is the ratio T2/TI of untwisting tension T2 and heating tension T1.
is 1.2 to 0.8, which is a smaller value than the normal false twisting conditions, so that the core-sheath structure can be easily maintained, but is not much different from the normal false twisting or stretch false twisting conditions, but the following range is preferable.

The temperature of the false twisting heater is (Tm-90)℃ to (Tm-
40) 'C range is preferred. The number of false twists is 17,000/- when the fineness of the composite plate twisted yarn is D (denier).
The range of rD(T/m) to 30°OOO/J'v(T/m) is preferable. In the case of drawing and false twisting, the drawing ratio is preferably set so that the elongation of the composite plate twisted 7JO yarn is within the range of 20 to 40%. This is because if the elongation is less than 20%, fuzz is likely to occur, and if it is greater than 40%, the core-sheath structure is likely to change during the weaving and weaving process.

[Example] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to Examples. Note that the physical properties in the examples were evaluated as follows.

A. Anti-pilling property The product was treated with an ICI type pilling tester for 10 hours and measured, and the results were determined as follows.

5th grade (excellent, passed) 4th grade (excellent, passed) 3rd grade (good, passed, but may fail depending on the purpose) 2nd grade (unsatisfactory, failed) 1st grade (unsatisfactory, failed) (very bad) B. Anti-frosting properties: Visual judgment was made after rubbing against a polyethylene terephthalate processed yarn fabric for 20 minutes.

5th grade (excellent, passed) 4th grade (Wi, almost no traces observed, passed) 3rd grade (good, some white marks observed, passed) 2nd grade (unsatisfactory, white marks observed) 1 Grade (Not acceptable, clearly whitened, very poor) C1 number of fluff The processed yarn was sandwiched between transparent glass plates, and the number of fluff was measured from a projected image magnified 5 to 20 times.

D. Degree of entanglement As shown in Figure 1, the sample thread is hung on a grooved pulley 2 that can rotate left and right around the central axis 1 without resistance, so as not to slip.
Apply a load of 3.4 to two locations. The load is the total denier XQ of the sample yarn.

4g.

Next, a fixed needle 5 having an outer diameter of 0.60 m is stabbed and fixed at a substantially right angle between the single threads constituting the yarn.

Next, a constant load 6 whose weight is roughly the single yarn denier of the sample move it.

Next, remove the constant load 6 that was applied to the load 3, apply it in addition to the load 4 on the right side, move the sample yarn to the right by the constant load 6, and make sure that the intertwined part catches the fixed needle 5 and stops naturally. do. The moving speed of the sample thread with constant load 6 is 10 m/sec
shall be. The moving distance Q(s) of the sample yarn to the right according to the above method
) and calculate the degree of confounding using the following formula.

Degree of entanglement = 1000/α10.60 (=+/m) Example 1 A composite core-sheath processed yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate shown in Table 1, in which the thick filament group is the core part and the fine filament group is the sheath part. Obtained by processing into thread. The thick filament group has a birefringence of 34 to 35 x 10-3 with an 8-leaf cross section of 156 to 158 deniers after drawing, and the fine filament group has a 147 denier 96 filament after drawing.
An undrawn yarn with a round cross section and a birefringence of 22×10 −3 was used. After doubling, the yarn was interlaced with an air pressure of 3 kg/cri to give an entanglement degree of 45 to 48 co/m, a drawing ratio of 1.52, a tension ratio of 0.95, and a false twisting temperature of 2.
00'C, false twisting number 1630T/m, false twisting speed 4007
Stretching and simultaneous false twisting were carried out at 7if,/m i ml. The yarn length difference of alternately twisted/entangled type composite core-sheath false twisted yarn is 12.0~
The range is 12°3%, and the degree of entanglement is 315 to 348 pieces/
The number of fluffs was in the range of 1 to 5 pcs/m, which was a range in which there was substantially no fluff.

The obtained composite core-sheath processed yarn was woven into a 2/2 twill serge fabric at a density of 66 threads/inch in the warp and 64 threads/inch in the weft, and the texture and appearance were compared and evaluated with a wool serge fabric using No. 60 double yarn. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1, and although the spun-like appearance and soft touch were expressed at all levels, it had the waist and resilience of a worsted fabric, and the texture was not rough or hard. It has been found that the thick filament group needs to have a denier of 7 to 12, and preferably 7.5 to 11 denier.

Example 2 A composite core-sheath processed yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate shown in Table 2, in which the thick filament group was the core part and the fine filament group was the sheath part, was obtained by yarn processing. The thick filament group has 156 denier 18 filaments and 8 filaments after drawing.
The fine filament group had a birefringence of 34×10 −3 in the leaf cross section, and the fineness filament group had the fineness configuration shown in Table 2. Undrawn yarns with a round cross section and a birefringence of 22×10 −3 were used.

Interlacing treatment and false twisting were performed in accordance with Example 1. The yarn length difference of the alternately twisted/interlaced type composite core/sheath false twisted yarn is in the range of 11.8 to 12.0%, and the degree of entanglement is 295
-368 fuzz/m, and the fuzz number was 1 to 5 fuzz/m, which was a range where there was substantially no fuzz.

The obtained composite core-sheath yarn was woven according to Example 1. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2, and although the spun-like appearance and elasticity/resilience can be expressed at all levels, the fineness of the filament must be 0.7 to 3 to achieve the soft touch texture of a worsted fabric. It has been found that a denier of 1 denier or more is preferable from the viewpoint of improving anti-frosting properties, and preferably 2.2 denier or less from the viewpoint of anti-pilling properties.

[Effects of the Invention] In the composite core-sheath false twisted yarn of the present invention, the filament groups in the sheath portion are wound around the filament group in the core portion in an alternately twisted manner, and each filament is twisted around each other at the boundary between the core portion and the sheath portion. Since it has a mixed and entangled structure, it can be applied to woven and knitted fabrics that have a spun-like appearance and texture. In addition, thick filaments and fine filaments with specific fineness ranges are placed in the core and sheath, respectively, resulting in a soft touch and waist.
It can be well applied to worsted fabrics with excellent resilience. It is particularly suitable for high-quality worsted-like fabrics that can be used in the fall and winter men's outerwear field, which requires a high level of elasticity and resilience.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram of the degree of entanglement measurement.

Claims (1)

[Claims] In a composite core-sheath false twisted yarn composed of at least two types of polyester filament groups with different filament finenesses, the filament fineness of the thick filament group constituting the core is 7 to 12 deniers, and the filament fineness of the thick filament group constituting the core is 7 to 12 deniers, and It is confirmed that the filament fineness of the filament group is 0.7 to 3 deniers, that the filaments are wound around the core part in an alternately twisted manner, and that each filament is mixed and entangled with each other at the boundary between the core part and the sheath part. Characteristic polyester composite processed yarn.