JPS63249728A - Polyester composite processed yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to at least two types of polyester composite textured yarns having different filament finenesses, and which are particularly suitable for spun-like woven and knitted fabrics for clothing with excellent texture and appearance. The present invention relates to a composite textured yarn suitable for worsted textiles.

[Prior Art] Worsted wool fabrics are excellent in bulk, soft touch, waist, resilience, and warm feel, and are widely used as outerwear materials for autumn and winter.

False twisted yarn was originally developed with the aim of creating woven or knitted fabrics with characteristics such as bulkiness and soft touch by adding crimps similar to wool fibers to synthetic fiber filament yarns such as polyester. , polyester processed yarn is also being developed into the wool woven and knitted fabric field.

However, when polyester processed yarn is woven into a worsted-like fabric and finished, the filament fineness needs to be about 1.5 denier or less to obtain a soft touch texture; This has the disadvantage that only extremely low elasticity and resilience can be obtained. On the other hand, waist 2
Increasing the filament fineness in an attempt to increase dust repellency only increases the roughness and stiffness, resulting in a material that is different from wool worsted fabrics, which have stiffness and repellency. For this reason, various techniques have been proposed, such as creating a yarn that is a blend of thick and fine filaments and adding fluff, but none of them has satisfied the texture and processability.

Here, the composite core-sheath processed yarn, which has a core of thick filaments and a sheath of fine filaments, has a soft touch and a waist of 1.
Many improved techniques have been proposed because they can simultaneously impart repellency.

As a conventional example of such a composite core-sheath processed yarn, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1987-
75 as a thick filament group in the 20025 publication.
D-12F, 7 as a group of fine FilA filaments
An example of a composite core-sheath processed yarn using 5D-36F is described. The technology disclosed herein has improved waist and stretch properties compared to ordinary false twisted yarns, but especially soft touch, waist and stretch properties are strongly required for worsted fabrics. It was insufficient to be used for men's outerwear, and there were also problems in processability.

JP-A-55-71835 describes a composite core-sheath processed yarn in which the fineness filament is 1.6 deniers or less and the difference in fineness between the thick filament and the fineness filament is 1.8 deniers or more. Regarding the fineness of thick filament, there is only description in the range of 3 to 4.4 denier,
It is insufficient in terms of imparting repellency. Moreover, since it is a composite processed yarn with fluff, it has the disadvantage of poor process passability.

JP-A-55-112325 discloses that the filament group serving as the core contains a specific proportion of filaments with a superhuman weave (12 to 3
A composite core-sheath processed yarn is described using a thin filament (0 denier is described as a preferable range), but the thick filament is too thick and too rigid, so it is difficult to prevent it from coming out completely on the surface. Therefore, it is inevitable that it will have a rough and hard texture.

Furthermore, JP-A No. 57-29629 discloses a two-layer spun-like processed yarn in which the thick filament is 3 to 6 deniers and the fine filament is 1 to 4 deniers, and the sheath portion is wound in an alternately twisted manner. is listed. The spunlike textured yarn described here is a thick denier yarn of 400 to 800 denier, and was developed for thick fabrics such as curtains, and even if it is a processed yarn with a fineness of 400 denier or less, it cannot be used as a worsted fabric. In this case, there is a drawback that the repulsion is too low.

It has also been implemented to give a heathered appearance and improve the spun-like effect by mixing filaments with different dyeability. JP-A-55-1'12323, JP-A-55-112324, JP-A-57-2152
Publication No. 6 describes that the core and sheath are dyed differently to give a heathered appearance. However, even with these techniques, it is not possible to impart a good feel with soft touch and waist 2 anti-fu properties as in the above-mentioned known examples.

[Problem to be Solved by the Invention 1] As explained above, in the prior art, it has not been possible to obtain processed polyester yarns that have a soft touch, good elasticity, good texture, good heathered effect, and excellent process passability. I'm here because I couldn't do it.

The object of the present invention is to provide a composite processed yarn that is soft to the touch and can be suitably used for worsted fabrics with excellent waist, resilience and heathered appearance. To provide a polyester composite processed yarn that can be suitably applied to high worsted texture fabrics that can be used in the field of men's outerwear in autumn and winter, which requires a high level of quality.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The object of the present invention described above is to provide a composite core-sheath false twisted yarn composed of at least two types of polyester filament groups having different filament finenesses, in which a group of thick filament fibers forming a core portion is used. is undyable with ionic dyes and has a filament fineness of 6.5 to 11 deniers, and the fine filament group constituting the sheath is dyeable with ionic dyes and has a filament fineness of 0.8 to 11 deniers. 2.2 denier,
The fineness ratio of the fine filament group to the thick filament group is 0.7 to 1.4, and there is a 4 to 20% yarn length difference between the two filaments, and entanglement is imparted to the entire processed yarn. It can be interlocked with polyester composite processed yarn, which is characterized by

The yarn structure of the polyester composite processed yarn of the present invention consists of at least two types of polyester ficimen 1 to 1 with different filament finenesses: a thick filament group and a fine filament group.
It has a core-sheath structure, with the thick filament group serving as the core and the fine filament group serving as the sheath. However, if the thick filament group becomes the core near the center of the processed yarn over the entire length of the processed yarn, and the fine filament group forms a sheath that completely covers the thick filament group, it will be difficult to achieve the heathered effect. Such a complete core-sheath part and a group of thick filaments exist mainly in the center of the processed yarn,
It is preferable to have a structure h) in which a group of fine filaments is a sheath covering a group of thick filaments, or a structure in which a group of thick filaments and a group of fine filaments are arranged in parallel.

In order to create such a structure, the yarn length difference between both filament groups, which will be described later, needs to be in the range of 4 to 20%, and 15%.
% or less is preferable.

The filament fineness of the thick filament group constituting the core must be between 6.5 and 11 deniers. 6
．． If it is less than 5 denier, it will not be possible to obtain stiffness and repulsion properties comparable to worsted fabrics made of wool when made into a fabric. The higher the fineness, the better the elasticity and repulsion, but if the fineness is greater than 11 denier, the roughness and hardness will become stronger. A range of 7 to 10 deniers is preferable in order to obtain a worsted-like fabric that does not have a rough, stiff feel and has excellent waist 1 resilience.

The filament fineness of the fine filament group constituting the sheath portion needs to be 0.8 to 2.2 deniers.

In order to impart a soft touch, it is necessary to set the denier to 2.2 denier or less, but it is 1.7 in order to achieve an even softer touch texture, to make it look like a worsted fabric, and to have good anti-build properties.
It is preferable to set it to a denier or less. On the other hand, if the denier is necessarily made too fine, the touch will be too soft and the texture will be different from that of a worsted fabric, so it is necessary to set the denier to 0.8 or more. Further, the finer the denier, the lower the anti-frosting property, the lower the apparent dyeability, and the more difficult it becomes to darken the color, so it is more preferable to set the denier to 1 denier or more.

The fineness ratio of the IB fineness filament group to the large fineness filament group needs to be 0.7 to 1.4. When the fineness ratio is less than 0.7, thick filaments tend to exist on the surface of the processed yarn, giving a strong rough and hard feeling, and when dyeing, the entire system appears to be dyed only in a light color, and colorless heather flow occurs. There are drawbacks. If the fineness ratio is greater than 1.4, the soft touch will be too emphasized and the waist 2 repellency will be insufficient, and when dyed, the entire system will appear to be dyed, resulting in a disadvantage that the heathered effect will be small. In order to make the soft touch, waist 2 resilience and heathered effect comparable to that of a heathered worsted fabric made of wool and dyed with yarn, it is preferable to set it in the range of 0.8 to 1.3.

From the point of view of soft touch, waist, and repulsion, the fineness of thick filament is dH (denier).

-dH/30+ 0.9≧RH≧-dH/30+ O1, where RH is the proportion of fineness in the entire processed yarn of the thick filament group.
It is preferable to set it as the range of 7. In addition, the fineness ratio of the thick filament to the fine filament is preferably 4 times or more in order to prevent the fabric from becoming bulky, and is 4.5.
It is more preferable to make it twice or more.

A difference in yarn length of 4 to 20% is required between both filament groups. This means that when a certain length of processed yarn is cut out, the average length of the filaments in the group is 4 to 20% compared to the average length of the filaments in the thick filament group.
% longer is required. In the present invention, it is necessary to set it to 4% or more, since the larger the difference in yarn length, the better the soft touch, bulkiness, and warm feel of the worsted fabric. On the other hand, if the yarn length difference becomes too large, disadvantages such as increased bulkiness, decreased pill resistance, and generation of neps during false twisting and weaving and weaving processes will occur.
The content should be 0% or less, and is preferably 4 to 15%, where the above-mentioned effects are particularly noticeable.

Entanglement is imparted to the entire processed yarn of the present invention. This means that there is fluid entanglement between the filaments within and between the thick filament group and the fine filament group, and this entanglement causes the separation of the thick filament group and the fine filament group. It prevents the formation of neps, it improves thread passage during the weaving process,
The degree of entanglement is preferably 150 strands/m or more, more preferably 200 strands/m or more, from the viewpoint of imparting a good heathered effect and improving pill resistance. If the degree of entanglement is too high, the woven fabric will have a large fineness filament group and 4m
% lj degree is preferably 400 co/m or less, more preferably 350 co/m or less since the effect caused by the yarn length difference between the filament groups is reduced.

The total fineness of the processed yarn is preferably in the range of 50 to 360 deniers. If the total fineness is too fine, an increase in cost is unavoidable, and if the total fineness is too large, crimpability is undesirable due to a decrease in the upper limit of the number of twists during false twisting.

Because the thick filament has a large fineness, it tends to generate a glittering luster, so it is preferable to make it into a 5- to 8-shaped cross section and to make it non-glitter.

If fuzz is present in the processed yarn, it is likely to cause problems such as nep formation or yarn breakage in the processed yarn itself due to getting caught on guides or entanglement of threads running parallel to each other in higher-order processes such as weaving, knitting, and weaving. For this reason, it is preferable that the processed yarn has substantially no fuzz, with the fuzz of a length equal to or longer than that in the system being 0.1 fuzz/m or less, and the total fuzz count should be 10 fuzz/m or less. is more preferable, and even more preferably 5 co/m or less. In addition, if the sheath is made of polyester that can be dyed with ionic dyes as in the present invention, the polyester that can be dyed with ionic dyes has less rigidity than non-dyeable polyesters, so there will be some problems due to fuzz. It has the advantage of having a wide tolerance range for the number of fuzz.

The polyester that is undyable with ionic dyes in the present invention is polyethylene terephthalate or a third component that has no affinity with ionic dyes (for example, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, adipic acid, butylene glycol, etc.).
A copolymerized polyester that is not substantially dyed by ionic dyes such as acid dyes or basic dyes. On the other hand, polyesters dyeable with ionic dyes are polyesters containing groups dyeable with ionic dyes (e.g. sulfonate metal bases) or polymers dyeable with ionic dyes (e.g. nylon 6, nylon 66).
etc.) and additives, which are well dyed with ionic dyes. As the polyester dyeable with ionic dyes, ethylene terephthalate/ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (90 to 99 mol%/10 to 1 mol%) copolyester is preferred.

In addition, polyester that is undyable to ionic dyes is
From the viewpoint of improving repellency, it is preferable that the intrinsic viscosity at 25° C. in chlorophenol is in the range of 0.60 to 0.72. Polyester dyeable with ionic dyes has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.50 for anti-pilling and anti-frosting properties.
-0.65 is preferable, and 0.54-0.60 is more preferable.

The polyester composite textured yarn of the present invention can be suitably produced by the following method. In other words, when undrawn yarns of at least two types of polyester filament groups with different filament finenesses are combined, drawn, and false-twisted to form a composite core-sheath false-twisted yarn, the thick filament group is essential because it is undyed by ionic dyes. The filament fineness after drawing is 6.5 to 11 deniers, and the fine filament group is dyeable with ionic dyes, and the filament fineness after drawing is 0.8 to 2.2 deniers. The fineness ratio after drawing of the fineness filament group and the fineness filament group is 0.7 to 1.4, and is necessarily equal to (birefringence index of thick filament undrawn yarn) - (birefringence of fineness filament undrawn yarn) It has a birefringence index of 2 to 30 x 10-3, preferably 15 to 26 x 10-3, and can be produced by rubbing an h-color interlace on a false twisted yarn.

The birefringence of undrawn polyester yarn is 13 to 40X10-
Preparing each undrawn yarn within the range of 3 prevents false twisting and destabilization of textured yarn properties due to changes over time in the undrawn yarn, and provides stable yarn length differences in the yarn longitudinal direction. Preferable from this point of view.

The stretching and false-twisting conditions are not much different from the usual stretching and simultaneous false-twisting conditions, but the following ranges are preferred. The temperature of the false-twisting heater is (Tm -80)°, where the melting point of the polymer that has the lowest melting point among the polymers forming the false-twisted yarn is 1 m ('C).
A range of C to (Tm -30)'C is preferable because it provides good false twist crimp properties without causing fusion. The number of false twists is 17,000/Jv (tons/m) to 32,000/ff when the fineness of the composite core/sheath false twisted yarn is D (denier).
(T/m) range is preferable from the viewpoint of stable false twisting processability and good false twisting crimp characteristics, and the range is 22000/J (T
7m) to 30000/, r'r5(T/m) is more preferable.

The stretching ratio is preferably set so that the elongation of the composite core-sheath false twisted yarn is within the range of 25 to 40%. elongation to 2
This is because if it is less than 5%, fuzz tends to occur, and if it is more than 40%, the textured yarn is easily subjected to large elongation deformation during the weaving and finishing processes.

The method for doubling yarns is essentially a false twisting heating of two yarns to be doubled as shown in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-34447 in order to give a stable textured yarn structure and yarn length difference in the yarn longitudinal direction. It is preferable to start with an equivalent relationship.

[Examples] The present invention will be explained in more detail below using Examples. In addition, the materials in Examples [Raw] were evaluated as follows.

A. Anti-pilling property The product was treated with an ICI type pilling tester for 10 hours and measured, and the results were determined as follows.

5FgL (Excellent 2 passed) 4th grade (Excellent 2 passed) 3rd grade (Good 2nd grade, but may fail depending on the purpose) 2nd grade (Unsatisfactory, failed) 1st grade (Unsatisfactory, failed, Most (Bad) B: Anti-frosting properties: Judgment was made with the naked eye after rubbing against a polyethylene terephthalate processed yarn fabric for 20 minutes.

Level 5 (passed Hide 2) Grade 4 (invasion), with almost no traces recognized.

Passed) 3rd grade (Good, 2nd pass with some white marks observed) 2nd grade (Unsatisfactory, white traces observed) 1st grade (Unsatisfactory, clearly whitened. Also bad) C9 fuzz treated yarn on a transparent glass plate The number of fuzz was measured from a projected image magnified 5 to 20 times. Measurements are taken on randomly sampled 1m10 lines, and the average value of the 8 measured values excluding the maximum and minimum values is required.

D. Degree of entanglement As shown in Figure 1, the sample thread is hung on a grooved pulley 2 that can rotate left and right around the center @b1 without resistance so as not to slip.
Apply loads 3 and 4 to two locations. The load shall be the total denier of the sample yarn x 0.4 g.

Next, a fixed needle 5 having an outer diameter of 0.60 mm is stabbed and fixed at a substantially right angle between the single threads constituting the thread.

Next, the load 3 applied to the left side of the sample yarn is further applied with a constant load m6 whose weight is equal to the single yarn denier of the sample x 2.0 g, and the sample yarn is moved to the left side until the intertwined part is caught and stopped by the constant load 6. move it.

Next, remove the constant load 6 that was applied to the load 3, apply it in addition to the load 4 on the right side, move the sample yarn to the right by the constant load 6, and make sure that the intertwined part catches the fixed needle 5 and stops naturally. do. The moving speed of the sample yarn due to constant load 6 is iomm/se
Let it be c.

The distance Ω (mm) that the sample yarn moves to the right by the above method is determined, and the degree of entanglement is calculated from the following formula.

Degree of entanglement = 1000/ (Ω+0.60) (ko/ 7
11) Example 1 A composite core-sheath false twisted yarn was prepared to examine the effect of the fineness of thick filaments shown in Table 1, in which the thick filament group was the core and the fine yarn filament group was the sheath. processed. The thick filament group is polyethylene terephthalate fiber with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 and a birefringence of 32 to 33.
X 10-3.

After drawing, the filament has a cross section of 160 denier and 8 leaves, and the fine filament group is made of ethylene terephthalate/ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (97
, 5 mol%/2.5 mol%) copolymerized polyester fiber,
An undrawn yarn having a 145 denier 96 filament, a round cross section, and a birefringence of 14×10′ after drawing was used. Stretching ratio after doubling 1.63° False twisting temperature 205°C 1 False M '111
Stretching and simultaneous false twisting were carried out at CJO/m and false twisting speed of 350 m/min. After false twisting, it was interlaced at an air pressure of 4.0 KS/ctA and wound up. The yarn length difference of composite processed yarn is 9
．． The range is 0 to 9.3%, and the degree of confounding is 270 to 294.
The fuzz number was in the range of 3 to 5 fuzz/77Z, which was a range in which there was substantially no wing.

The obtained composite textured yarn was woven into a 272 twill Saxony fabric using a weft pattern, subjected to a normal polyester cation dyeing process, and compared and evaluated in terms of texture and appearance with a wool Saxony fabric using a No. 60 twin yarn. As shown in Table 1, the evaluation results show that the thick filament needs to have a denier of 6.5 to 11 denier, and preferably 7 to 10 denier.

The resulting fabric had good soft touch feel, heathered appearance, anti-pilling properties (4 to 4.5@), and anti-frosting properties (grade 4).

Table 1 Example-2 Composite core-sheath false twisted yarn for examining the effect of the fineness of fineness filaments at the level shown in Table 2, in which the thick filament group is the core and the fineness filament group is the sheath. was processed. The thick filament group is polyethylene terephthalate fiber with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 and a birefringence of 33X 10-
3. 160 denier 18 filament after drawing, 8-lobed cross section, fine filament group is ethylene terephthalate/ethylene 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (97.5 mol%/2.5 mol%) with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.59. An undrawn copolyester fiber having a denier of 145 denier after drawing, a round cross section, and a birefringence of 14 to 15×10 −3 was used. False twist according to Example 1.

Interlaced. The yarn length difference of the composite core-sheath false twisted yarn is in the range of 9.1 to 9.4%, and the degree of entanglement is in the range of 252 to 3.
The number of fuzz was in the range of 34 fuzz/m, and the number of fuzz was 1 to 5 fuzz/m, and it was rarely found that there was substantially no fuzz. - The obtained composite processed yarn was woven and dyed according to Example 1. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2, and the fineness of the filament was 0.
It is necessary to have a denier of 8 to 2.2 deniers, preferably 1 denier or more from the viewpoint of improving anti-frosting properties, and preferably 1.7 denier or less from the viewpoint of improving anti-pilling properties.

The waist of the fabric was 2 (negative) and the heathered appearance were both good.

Example 3 Composite core-sheath false twisting for examining the effect of the ratio of the fine filament group to the thick filament group at the level shown in Table 3, where the thick filament group was the core and the fine filament group was the falling part. Processed yarn. The thick filament group is polyethylene terephthalate fiber with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62.

The birefringence index is 32-33x10-3.8 leaf cross section, and the fine filament group is made of ethylene terephthalate 2/ethylene 5-ndium sulfoisophthalate (97.6 mol%/2.4 mol) with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.59. %) Copolymerized polyester fiber, round cross section with birefringence of 15-16X10-3
Undrawn yarn was used. False twisting and interlace processing were performed according to Example 1. The yarn length difference of the composite core-sheath false twisted yarn is in the range of 9.0 to 9.3%, and the degree of entanglement is in the range of 230 to 9.3%.
The number of fuzz was in the range of 348 fuzz/m, and the number of fuzz was 1 to 5 fuzz/m, which was a range where there was substantially no fuzz.

The obtained composite processed yarn was woven according to Example 1.

Dyed and processed. The evaluation results are shown in Table 4. From Table 4, the fineness ratio of the fine filament group to the thick filament group needs to be 0.7 to 1.4, and 0.8 to 1.4.
It is clear that a range of 1.3 is preferable. The anti-frosting properties and anti-pilling properties of the obtained fabric were both rated 4, which was good.

Example 4 A composite core-sheath false twisted yarn was processed in order to examine the effect of the yarn length difference shown in Table 5, in which the thick filament group was the core part and the fine filament group was the sheath part. The thick filament group is polyethylene terephthalate fiber with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64, 160 denier 18 filament after drawing, and 8-lobed cross section, and the fine filament group has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.57.
Ethylene terephthalate/ethylene 5-sodium sulfoinphthalate (97.7 mol%/2.3 mol%)
Copolymerized polyester fibers, 145 denier 96 filaments after drawing, undrawn yarns with round cross sections and birefringences shown in Table 5 were used. False twisting and interlace processing were performed in accordance with Example 1. The degree of entanglement of the composite core-sheath false twisted yarn is in the range of 263 to 288 threads/m, and the number of fuzz is 3 to 5.
The range was substantially free of fluff.

The obtained composite processed yarn was woven according to Example 1.

Dyed and processed. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5, and the yarn length difference is required to be 4 to 20%, preferably 4 to 15%.

At level 26, where the yarn length difference exceeded 20%, neps occurred. All fabrics had good heathered appearance and frosting resistance (4@).

"Effects of the Invention" As described above, the present invention has a composite core-sheath false twisted yarn in which thick filaments and fine filaments with a specific fineness range are arranged in the core and sheath, respectively, and which are undyable to ionic dyes. The fineness ratio and yarn length difference between the thick filament group and the fine filament group dyeable with ionic dyes are within a specific range, and interlacing is imparted, so it has a soft touch and stiffness. It can be suitably applied to yarns for worsted textiles that have excellent resilience and a heathered appearance. In particular, it can be applied to high-quality flowing fabrics that can be used as fall/winter men's outerwear fabrics that require a high level of elasticity and appearance.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 is an explanatory diagram of the method for measuring the degree of entanglement.

Claims (1)

[Claims] In a composite core-sheath false twisted yarn composed of at least two types of polyester filament groups having different filament finenesses, the thick filament group constituting the core is undyable to ionic dyes and has a filament fineness of 6.5. ~11
The fine filaments that make up the sheath are dyeable with ionic dyes, and the filament fineness is 0.
．． 8 to 2.2 deniers, and the fineness ratio of the fine filament group to the thick filament group is 0.7 to 1.4.
A polyester composite processed yarn characterized in that there is a yarn length difference of 4 to 20% between both filament groups, and the entire processed yarn is intertwined.