JPS6155224A - Special blended yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] [Technical field of invention].

The present invention is a heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn with latent bulkiness, which is suitable as a special mixed fiber yarn suitable for forming high-grade silky woven and knitted fabrics that have large bulge, excellent drapability, and natural unevenness. 'do.

[Prior art and its problems]

Woven and knitted fabrics using polyester heat-shrinkable differential blend yarns are regarded as important as high-grade silky materials because of their ability to provide bulk and drapability.Technologies related to this are disclosed in Japanese Patent Publications No. 30620/1983 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 55/1983. A large number of such methods have been disclosed, such as in Japanese Patent Publication No. 22586 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-3064. However, woven and knitted fabrics obtained from blended yarns that have simply been given a difference in heat shrinkage have a monotonous and irritated appearance, are becoming obsolete, and cannot respond to diversification and luxury. There are drawbacks.

Looking at the characteristics of silk woven or knitted fabrics, which are the target of high-grade silky materials, there is a noticeable difference in the degree of fullness and unevenness compared to woven or knitted fabrics made using ordinary polyester threads.

Although it was possible to achieve a certain degree of fullness by using the heat-shrinkable blended fibers described above, a good level of silk-like unevenness could not be obtained. 'Looking at the uneven feel of silk fabrics, we find that the silk multifilament yarn has random unevenness in fineness along its length, giving it a luxurious feel that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers.

By the way, the fineness unevenness in the yarn length direction of silk multifilament yarn after sericin has been removed can be determined by the measurement method described below when the U% value is 1.
~3%, and the number of peaks in the U% value range of 4 to 10% is 10 to 30 per 50 m, and the number of peaks exceeding 10% is about 0 to 5 per 50 m. ing.

Many methods have been proposed for imparting such thick/fine unevenness to polyester multifilament yarns by non-uniformly drawing polyester undrawn yarns, but most of them involve clearly separating the main part from the details. It is formed in the length direction and gives a clear shade difference after dyeing, and the U% value is 5 to several 1.
Thick as 0% (not necessarily sufficient as a raw yarn for silky high-grade woven or knitted fabrics).

In Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-7207, it is reported that there are 3 or more undrawn parts with a length of 3 cm or less per 10 aa of multifilament yarn, and the elongation is Polyester fibers that are 35-70% are disclosed. However, the thick and fine yarn disclosed herein has the disadvantage that because it is supplied with a low spinning speed yarn and is non-uniformly drawn, there is a large difference in physical properties between the thick part and the details, especially a large difference in U% value, and a large difference in shade after dyeing. Furthermore, since the yarn elongation is high, it is easily susceptible to tension changes in higher-order processes.

On the other hand, as a heat-shrinkable differentially mixed fiber yarn, the following is a technique in which a raw yarn having a fineness distribution in the yarn count direction is applied. That is, Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-45653 discloses that an ionic dye is dyeable and non-dyeable polyester mixed fabric (in a thermal system, one of the yarns contains irregular unstretched parts,
Techniques have been disclosed to provide highly shrinkable yarns by preventing fusion of unstretched portions. In relation to the present invention, when this mixed fiber yarn is used to make a woven or knitted fabric using raw silk, the high shrinkage yarn having an unstretched portion occupies the core, resulting in a disadvantage that the natural appearance becomes too mild. Also, it has the disadvantage that it is difficult to bulge out.

JP-A-56-128326 also discloses a heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn using highly shrinkable yarn with uneven fineness, but it has the same drawbacks as the one in JP-A-55-45653 mentioned above. be.

JP-A No. 55-163232 discloses a mixed yarn consisting of a yarn with uneven bark and a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage, but most of the yarn has uneven fineness and the difference in dye density is large. There are disadvantages, and the shrinkage level of yarns with uneven fineness and mixed yarns with different shrinkages are not particularly taken into consideration.

Furthermore, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 58-4868 discloses a low shrinkage thick and thin material.

A taslan yarn mixed with a feed difference and a high shrinkage yarn is disclosed, but it does not suggest a raw silk blend yarn, and the taslan yarn with a feed difference has many large loops and is difficult to unwind. The disadvantages are that the resulting woven or knitted fabric tends to exhibit the Huppsner phenomenon, has low gloss, and is difficult to use as a high-grade silky material.

[Purpose of the invention]

The present invention has been made in order to eliminate the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks, and provides raw silk suitable as a thread for forming high-grade silky woven and knitted fabrics that have large bulges, excellent drapability, elegant luster, and silk-like natural unevenness. The purpose is to provide a blended yarn.

[Structure of the invention]

The special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention that achieves the above object is composed of a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, and has a fresh water shrinkage rate and/or a dry heat shrinkage rate of at least 5 at 200°C between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn.
%, and at least the low shrinkage yarn has a fineness distribution in the yarn count direction.

The special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention needs to have a difference of at least 5% in fresh water shrinkage rate and/or 200° C. dry heat shrinkage rate between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn. A method for heat-treating woven or knitted fabrics using heat-shrinkable differentially mixed yarns to reveal latent bulkiness is to heat-treat woven or knitted fabrics using heat-shrinkable differentially mixed yarns and to expose them to a moist heat condition including water conduction and/or
A general and preferred method is to perform heat treatment under dry heat conditions at around 0° C. without applying substantial tension.

If the difference in fresh water shrinkage rate and/or 200° C. dry heat shrinkage rate between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn is less than 5%, good bulkiness and drapability cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. In order to provide large bulkiness and drapability, it is preferable that the difference in spring water shrinkage and/or 200°C dry heat shrinkage is 7% or more. %
It is more preferable that there be more than one.

However, if the difference in fresh water shrinkage rate is too large, the surface condition of the n-product will exhibit large irregularities and will tend to become rough, so it is preferable that the difference in fresh water shrinkage rate is 20% or less.
More preferably, the content is 5% or less. When manifesting latent bulkiness by utilizing the difference in dry heat shrinkage rate, it is best to carry out the process after heat treatment such as scouring, alkaline weight loss treatment, and dyeing. The dry heat shrinkage rate difference is preferably 3% or more, more preferably 5% or more.

If the heat shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage yarn is too large, the resulting woven or knitted fabric tends to be coarse and hard.
It is preferable that the dry heat shrinkage rate at 0°C is 30% or less,
In addition, the higher the shrinkage stress of high-shrinkage yarns and the lower the shrinkage stress of low-shrinkage yarns, the greater the latent bulkiness, so high-shrinkage yarns exhibit higher shrinkage stress in water conduction and/or dry heat conditions at 200°C. is preferable, and it is more preferable that the high shrinkage yarn exhibits high shrinkage stress especially under spring water treatment conditions.

In addition, among the yarns constituting the special blended yarn of the present invention, it is necessary for the low shrinkage yarn to have a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Although it is possible to use a yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction, it is easy to reduce shrinkage stress with a yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction, and this characteristic can be used to give woven or knitted fabrics great bulk and drapability. It is possible to impart a natural silk-like appearance by placing the low shrinkage yarn outside the high shrinkage yarn after heat treatment, so it is possible to use only the low shrinkage yarn as a yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction. Preferably. Here, having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn means that large areas and small areas exist alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and it is preferable that thick areas and small areas exist randomly throughout the multifilament. .

In particular, as mentioned above, in order to provide the same uneven feel as silk, it is possible to obtain fineness unevenness with at least a low shrinkage rate, that is, the U% value can be set to 0.7 to 3% by the measurement method described below, and 0.9
It is more preferable to set it to ~2.5%, and the number of U% value peaks in the range of 4 to 10% is preferably 5 to 100 per 50 m, and 10 to 60 per 50 m. More preferably, the number of peaks exceeding 10% is 10 or less per 50 m, U%
If the value exceeds 3%, most of the yarn will contain substantially unstretched material, and after dyeing, the dyeing in the major and small areas will become so-called thick and thin yarn, which is different from the silky appearance, which is preferable. It is preferable that most of the yarn is not completely undrawn, but is in a slightly stretched undrawn state. Therefore, in the S-8 curve of the thick and thin composite yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the constant stress elongation region such as the so-called shear and thin yarn is not substantially exhibited.

Furthermore, it is preferable that the elongation of the composite yarn having thick and thin parts is 15 to 50%, and it is preferable that the elongation is 20% or more and less than 35%, so that it has good passability in higher-order processes and is less susceptible to fluctuations in tension in higher-order processes. preferable.

In the special mixed yarn of the present invention, the U% value is preferably 0.5 to 2% in terms of giving a natural appearance, and 0.6 to 1%.
．． A range of 5% is more preferred. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of imparting a silky luster and touch to the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable that the yarn constituting the special mixed fiber yarn be a yarn with an irregular cross section, such as a T-shape or a Y-shape. Polyester can be suitably used as the yarn constituting the special mixed fiber yarn because it can express a good silky feel and can have a good fineness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

In addition, the potential bulkiness of the special mixed fiber yarn can be expressed by the bulkiness, which will be explained later in the measurement method, and the bulkiness is 15 cc.
/ g or more is preferable. 1.20. More preferably cc/g or more.

The special blended yarn of the present invention is produced under conditions that maintain a predetermined shrinkage rate difference when spinning high-shrinkage yarn and low-shrinkage yarn, and at least form a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the low-shrinkage yarn. It is obtained by doubling the threads.

Next, spinning of a yarn having a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction will be described, taking polyester as an example, which can be particularly preferably used. A yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction can be obtained by non-uniformly drawing an undrawn yarn. The spinning speed when spinning the undrawn yarn is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 4,000 m/rain, more preferably in the range of 2,500 to 3,500 m/a+in. If the spinning speed is too low, the strength will be low when making a large fine yarn, and the difference in thickness will be emphasized, making it difficult to obtain a silk-like uneven feel.

゛If the spinning speed is too high, the difference between thick and thin yarns will be too small, resulting in a silk-like uneven feel. In some cases, polyester can be stretched using ordinary stretching equipment.In other words, if heating pins, heating rollers, hot plates, etc. are appropriately installed between the roller that supplies the polyester at a constant speed and the roller that takes it off at a constant speed under a constant magnification. However, a combination of a heating pin and a hot plate or a heating roller and a hot plate is preferable from the viewpoint of stably forming a thick and thin yarn in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.However, in order to form a drawn yarn with a thick and thin shape, the drawing ratio is (1 + constant stress). It is preferable that the elongation in the elongation region is not more than 2.2) times.

In order to set the U% value of the thick and thin drawn yarn to 0.7 to 3%, the stretching ratio is (1 + constant stress stretching region elongation x 1.1) to (1 +
A range of (1+constant stress elongation region elongation X1.3) to (1+constant stress elongation region It is more preferable to set the elongation to 20% or more and less than 35% without substantially showing elongation in the constant stress elongation region in the SS curve of the drawn yarn that provides an elongation in the range of X2.0).

Furthermore, in order to make the number of U% value peaks in the range of 4 to 10% 5 to 100 per 50 m, it is preferable to set the stretching start temperature T ('C) to a value not more than the value determined by the following formula.

In addition, in the combination of a heating pin and a hot plate or a heating roller and a hot plate, the fresh water shrinkage rate of the obtained drawn yarn can be controlled by the hot plate temperature, and the preferable level for a low shrinkage yarn is 3 to 9%. is preferably 140 to 200°C.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention has the following effects because it has a specific thermal shrinkage difference and at least the low shrinkage yarn has a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. In addition, when producing special mixed fiber yarn, it is possible to produce yarn stably even if special equipment and conditions are not used.

(11) By making a woven or knitted fabric using the special blended yarn of the present invention and heat-treating it with warm heat and/or dry heat without applying any tension, it is possible to impart great bulk and drapability as well as silk-like elasticity.・Can give a natural sense of unevenness.

Therefore, the uneven appearance which tends to be a drawback in woven or knitted fabrics using ordinary heat-shrinkable differentially mixed yarns does not occur.

Moreover, a low shrinkage yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn maintains its shrinkage and becomes a component on the side with a large difference in yarn length, resulting in excellent softness.

(2) In order to further emphasize the silky texture and appearance, it is preferable to use polyester yarn or yarn with an irregular cross section.

(3) In order to emphasize the bulkiness and drapability of the woven or knitted fabric, it is possible and preferable to make the shrinkage stress of the high shrinkage yarn larger than that of the low shrinkage yarn.

(4) In order to improve the stiffness and tension of the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable to use a high shrinkage yarn with a thicker denier. In this case, it is preferable that the fineness of the single yarn is 2 to 5 denier for the high shrinkage yarn and 0.7 to 3 denier for the low shrinkage yarn, with a difference of 0.5 denier or more.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to Examples. First, methods for measuring water conduction shrinkage, dry heat shrinkage, constant stress elongation region elongation, U%, and bulkiness in the present invention will be described below.

(Spring water shrinkage rate) One sample is a skein with a circumference of 1 m, wound 10 times on several machines, and the original length L1 is determined under a load of 0.1 g/d. After treatment, 0.1g/d
The length L2 after treatment is determined under load and calculated using the following formula. This is measured five times for each sample, and the average value is taken as the spring water contraction rate.

(Dry heat shrinkage rate) One sample is a skein with a circumference of 1 m, wound 10 times on several machines, and the original length is 3 under a load of 0.1 g/d. After processing for 15 minutes in a dry heat atmosphere at °C, the post-processing length L4 is determined under a load of 0.18/d, and calculated from the following formula. This was measured five times for each sample, and the average value was taken as the dry heat shrinkage rate.

(Elongation in constant stress elongation region) Read the elongation of C on the chart shown in Figure 1 obtained with an Instron type tensile tester, for example, if it is 40%, it is 0.4
Expressed as

(0%) Commercially available 1lster Evenne is used as a measuring device.
ssTester (manufactured by Keizoku Kogyo Co., Ltd.) is used.

The measuring slot to be used is selected depending on the torque denier of the yarn, and the yarn speed is set to 25 m/win, and the yarn is twisted with a twister at a rotation rate of about 1.50 Orpm, and the yarn is measured in a normal test. Worcester uneven curve has chart speed 5
Draw at aa/11i1, range ±12.5%. 0%
The value is read as the thread unevenness for 3 minutes using the included inch grater. The U% value was measured at least 5 times, with each measurement lasting 3 minutes, and represents the average value.

In the above measurement chart, the size of each peak is read as the difference between the upper and lower ends of the peak, and the U% value peak number is defined as the U% value peak number.
Both were measured five times and expressed as the average value.

(Bulk height) Figure 2 shows a sketch of the bulk height measuring device, Figure 3 (A),
(B) and (C) are sketches for explaining the measurement method using the device. Two notches 15 are provided on the top surface of the sample stage 10, and the interval 16 between the outer edges is 6fi.
A flexible thin cloth tape 11 having a width of 2.50 mm is passed through the notch 15, and a metal fitting 12 with a pointer and a load 13 are connected to the lower end thereof. The pointer on the metal fitting 12 is set so as to indicate the 0 position on the scale 14 when no sample is mounted.

Each skein of the sample has a circumference of 1 m and is wound 80 times using several machines. Prepare 2 to 10 skeins depending on the indicated fineness, and place these skeins separately in an atmosphere of 200 ± 2°C for 5 minutes. The skein is suspended under load and heat treated, and the skein after heat treatment is made to have an indicated fineness of 48,000 denier (for example, 3
30x80x 2-4.800 for 0 denier yarn
．． 48.000+4.800-10, 10 skeins, 75 denier yarn, 75 x 80 x 2-12.000
．． 48,000÷12.0002゛4 = 4 skeins) Align them in parallel 0 Next, the aligned skeins are shown in Figure 3 (A
) as shown in FIG. 3(B) to form a sample 17, and as shown in the front view of FIG. Insert it in between. The load 13 is set to be 50 g in total with that of the metal fitting with a pointer, and (01) is determined.

The bulk height M is calculated from the following formula.

Here, D is the fineness (denier) of the sample yarn before heat treatment, P
is a thread zero that is parallel to the tape. Also S
H is the shrinkage rate during dry heat treatment, and is a value expressed as a percentage determined by measuring the length of the skein used for bulk height measurement under a load equivalent to 0.1 g/d before and after heat treatment.

〔Example〕

Example 1 As a low shrinkage yarn, a Y-section polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn having an elongation in the constant stress stretching region of 41% obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 3000 m/min was used at a stretching speed of 30 m/min.
, stretched 1.6 times with a hot pin at 65°C and a hot plate at 140°C.
．． A 5-denier, 32-filament yarn with a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction was prepared. For physical properties other than those shown in Table 1, the U% value is 1.52%, and the number of peaks with a U% value of 4 to 10% is 26.
50 m, the number of peaks with U% value of 10% or more is 0/1
50 m, the elongation was 32%.

As the high shrinkage yarn, a normal drawn yarn B-E shown in Table 1 having a Y cross section of 37.5 denier and 14 filaments was prepared. However, B and C are ethylene terephthalate/ethylene isotucrate (9515 mol %) copolymerized polyester yarns, and D and E are polyethylene terephthalate yarns.

Combining high-shrinkage yarn and low-shrinkage yarn in a draw twister,
A special mixed fiber yarn of 75 denier 36 filament shown in Table 2 was obtained.

These special blended yarns are woven into habutae using warp and weave, relaxed scouring in fresh water conditions, dry heat set at 160°C, 60°C, 0°C, 25% weight loss with 3% sodium hydroxide, and 130°C.
Dyeing under normal polyester dyeing conditions, survival time: 200
℃ through the process of dry heat treatment. The combination of mixed yarn A-B causes bulge.

Drapability is insufficient, whereas A-C.

The A-D and A-E combinations have good luster, fullness, drapability, and natural appearance, and the A-D combination is even better than A-C, and A-E also has a soft surface. It was an extremely excellent silky fabric.

(Margins below this page) Example 2 E in Example 1 was used as the high shrinkage yarn, and the elongation in the constant stress elongation region obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 2800 to 3200 m/min was used as the low shrinkage yarn. A 38% Y cross-section polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn was drawn at a drawing speed of 35 m/
min+heating pin 60°C9 heating plate 145°C to prepare a 37.5 denier 32 filament yarn shown in Table 3 with fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction. The properties of the mixed yarn obtained by doubling are also listed in Table 3. A bulky fabric was obtained according to Example 1. The resulting fabric had excellent gloss, fullness, and drape properties. The knitted fabric of Experiment 5 has a slight sense of unevenness.
Dimension 6 has a gentle, muggy feel, and on the contrary, U made of low shrinkage yarn.
1lh12, which has a large percentage, had a strong density, N11l had a slightly strong density, and the fabrics with a high percentage of 1lh12 had an excellent natural uneven feel.

(Margins below this page)

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a strong elongation diagram explaining constant stress elongation, Fig. 2 is a sketch of the bulk height measuring device, and Fig. 3A
, B, and C are sketches for explaining the method of measuring bulkiness.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Consisting of a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn have a difference of at least 5% in boiling water shrinkage rate and/or 200°C dry heat shrinkage rate, A special mixed yarn characterized in that at least the low shrinkage yarn has a fineness distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. 2. The special mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn are polyester.