JPH04174741A - Cashmere-like woven fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject woven fabric having cashmere-like draping property by using a combined filament yarn composed of a high-shrinkage filament having a specific boiling water shrinkage and a low-shrinkage crimped yarn having a specific single fiber fineness as a warp and a hard-twist yarn having high twist coefficient as a weft, weaving the yarns and heat-treating the woven fabric. CONSTITUTION:A polyethylene terephthalate is melted with an extruder, extruded through an orifice heated at 295 deg.C and wound at a take-up speed of 1,100 m/min. The obtained undrawn fiber is drawn with a drawing roller heated at 80 deg.C to obtain a high-shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 2 10%. Separately, a polyester filament is heated with a heater and false-twisted to obtain a low-shrinkage crimped yarn having a single fiber fineness of <=1.5de. A combined filament yarn composed of the high-shrinkage filament and the low-shrinkage crimped yarn is used as a warp and a hard-twist yarn having a twist coefficient of 5,000-30,000 is used as a weft. The yarns are woven in a state to get a ratio of the number of floating warp to that of submerged warp of >=2 to 1 and the fabric is heat-treated to cause the shrinkage of the high-shrinkage filament and obtain the objective woven fabric.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a synthetic vA fabric that has a soft and drapeable touch and feel that is comparable to cashmere fabrics. (Prior art) For women's clothing, etc., there is a demand for SojuA with a flexible texture, and it is well known that so-called cashmere yarn made from high-quality wool is the best material for this material. be. However, since cashmere yarn is extremely expensive, it would be advantageous if a similar texture could be obtained using an inexpensive synthetic weave. Generally, it is known that a method of obtaining a soft feel and texture is to use fine yarns of several deniers or less. However, when weaving is carried out using threads such as threads, thread breakage occurs frequently, making it difficult to obtain high-quality fabrics, and the strength of the woven fabrics is low.
It also lacks a sense of tension. For this reason, the above-mentioned fine-grained yarns are used in combination with other yarns. For example, JP-A-63-135540 describes a fabric using a mixed yarn consisting of a fine-grained false twisted yarn with a single yarn denier of 1.5 deniers or less and a high shrinkage filament. (Problem to be solved by the invention) However, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 135540/1983,
It has only been disclosed that a waterproof fabric having air permeability can be obtained by increasing the density of the fabric in the weft and weft directions by the shrinkage effect of a high shrinkage filament component or the like. For this reason, the waterproof fabric has a soft texture, far from a cashmere-like texture, and tends to be hard and paper-like. The present invention solves this problem by making full use of the soft texture of fine-grained yarn, and by making it into a fabric with drapability. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a synthetic wA pure fabric that has a texture and feel similar to that of high-quality fabrics. (Another Means to Solve the Problems) The present invention uses mixed fiber yarns consisting of R4i'i yarns with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less and flat yarns, in which crimped yarns are substantially located in the surface layer, as warp yarns. On the other hand, the coefficient is 5000~
30,000 strong) outer yarns as weft yarns, and is characterized by having a texture in which the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sinks in the warp is 2:1 or more, and a fresh water shrinkage High shrinkage filament with a rate difference of 10% or more and single yarn fineness 1.
A mixed yarn consisting of a low shrinkage crimped yarn of 5 deniers or less is used for the warp yarn, a highly twisted yarn with a twist coefficient of 5,000 to 30,000 is used for the weft yarn, and the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sinkers of the warp is 2:1 or more. This method of producing a cashmere-like fabric is characterized in that after weaving the fabric, the high shrinkage filaments are subjected to heat treatment to shrink. Further, in the present invention, a mixed yarn consisting of a crimped yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 deniers or less and a flat yarn, in which the crimped yarn is substantially located in the surface layer, is used as the warp yarn, while a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30
A cashmere-like fabric using 000 strongly twisted yarn as the weft, characterized in that the weft has a thicker fineness than the warp, and a high shrinkage filament with a fresh water shrinkage rate difference of 0% or more and a single yarn fineness of 1 After weaving using a mixed yarn consisting of a low shrinkage crimped yarn of .5 denier or less as the warp yarn and a highly twisted yarn with a fineness thicker than the warp yarn and a twist coefficient of 5,000 to 30,000 as the weft yarn, heat treatment is performed. This is a method for producing a cashmere-like fabric, characterized by shrinking the high shrinkage filament. The mixed yarn used as the warp in the present invention contains two types of yarns: crimped yarn and flannel yarn of at least 1.5 denier. The crimped yarns include false twisted yarns, typed yarns; IJII yarn 1 abrasive yarns and self-crimping type, in which two-component polymers with different contractility are spun consortally into a side-high side type to develop crimps. Composite yarns and the like can be used, but false twisted yarns are preferred from the viewpoint of cost, crimp control, flexibility, etc. In the case of a false twisted yarn, a crimped yarn processed under straight-shooting conditions can be used. For example, in the case of a 75 denier filament, the number of twists is 3100 to 3500'r''/M, and in the case of a 50 denier filament, the twisting number is 3900 to 4300 T/M. If this happens, the stretch recovery rate will be 35-50%, resulting in strong crimp and the surface of the fabric may be disturbed, so it is preferable to use a false twisted yarn with two heaters.In the case of two heaters, the stretch recovery rate will be If it is set to 0 to 20%, more preferably 12 to 18%, a woven fabric with excellent performance and quality can be obtained. The single yarn denier of the crimped yarn is required to be 1.5 denier or less. ll! If the denier exceeds 15 denier, the soft texture of the surface layer decreases, making it impossible to obtain a cashmere-like texture. However, when the single yarn fineness of polyester fibers is 0.5 denier or less, the strength decreases, making it difficult to use them for external clothing applications. On the other hand, the flat yarn referred to in the present invention refers to yarn having a flat appearance without being subjected to the above-mentioned shrinking process. As described below, the flat yarn is located at the core of the mixed yarn, and preferably has a single yarn fineness of GJ of about 1 to 4 deniers. The mixed yarn has a structure in which the crimped yarn component is substantially located in the surface layer, thereby contributing to most of the tactile sensation. Such a mixed fiber yarn can be obtained by various methods, but the method described below is most efficient. (111) As the flat yarn, a high shrinkage filament with a freshwater shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more is used, and as the crimped yarn, a low shrinkage filament is used, and the two are mixed and entangled by an interlacing method etc. to form a mixed yarn. , After weaving, high acid ♀1? by 2%'H treatment. This is a method in which the i-filament is shrunk and positioned at the core of the mixed yarn. The high shrinkage phyllanone according to the present invention is as follows.
One example is kimono. In the case of polyester, the shrinkage rate of polyester filament, typified by polyethylene terephthalate, is jm after normal heat stretching, heat setting l-1,
, and the shrinkage rate is set to 1% I-. However, in the case of polyester, etc., high yield can be obtained by using the following method. Setting the iii rate is extremely easy. (2) When the polymer to be spun is made into a copolymer, for example, when assembling polyethylene terephthalate, ionophthalic acid is used as part of the acid component. ■ When stretching, set the stretching ratio low or omit the heat treatment. ■ Use filamen spun at high speed (usually 2500 rn/minute yield). By using the above method, the shrinkage rate can be set to 10 to 60%, but due to the stress and manufacturing speed, method 2) is suitable. The method according to the drawing conditions (1) to (h) is preferable because it has 1 x 1 plane and stable yarn quality of 1410 planes. The spring water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament used in the present invention is preferably 12 to 40%, and the water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage crimped yarn is preferably about 1 to 5%. In this method, since high shrinkage filaments are used to form the mixed fiber yarn structure, an extremely high shrinkage rate is not required, and it is necessary to keep the shrinkage rate within the above range so as not to harden the texture of the fabric. is preferable.Next, the strong j outer yarn used as the weft in the present invention will be explained.
It needs to be between 00 and 30000. T-a × 1/Z■ Z3] '' D-1 natural number (T''/M) a-Twist coefficient +1 fineness (denier) SG-Specific gravity grinding, if the coefficient is 5000 or less, it is 1, the yarn's Mariga power

[<The desired drapability cannot be achieved due to the loose texture. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient exceeds 30,000, the texture becomes hard and the desired drapability cannot be obtained. As such a strongly twisted yarn, it is more preferable to use a false twisted yarn such as a composite plate twisted yarn or a large fine yarn (knock anthin yarn) as described below. For example, as a composite plate twisted yarn, as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-24212,
A two-layer structure in which drawn yarn and undrawn yarn are simultaneously false-twisted and the drawn yarn is placed in the core and the undrawn yarn is placed in the sheath, or an undrawn yarn as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 12940/1982. Examples include those in which a drawn yarn and a semi-drawn yarn are stretched and false-twisted at the same time to form a two-layer structure as described above. When such a composite plate twisted yarn having a long layer + 14 structure is twisted, even though the core yarn is strongly twisted, the sheath yarn is not twisted so much that it does not remain bulky (a). Figure 1 shows an electron microscope (80x magnification) on the weft side of a wooden fabric;
(o) is a composite board using a two-layer structure yarn for the weft, but compared to (a), (2) uses either the weft (threads that are continuous from left to right in the center of the photo) or the warp. It can be seen that no matter which alternate points are bent, the bending becomes more flexible and the bulkiness is not impaired. Therefore, when a composite yarn such as porcelain is used for the weft, a fabric having both drape and bulkiness can be obtained. In addition, when large fine twisted yarns are used as the weft yarns, a fabric with a dry touch and a firm feel can be obtained due to the thick portions with low orientation. Such large fine threads include, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 63-25
As described in Japanese Patent No. 6733, undrawn yarns may be left to relax and then cold-stretched and false-twisted. As mentioned above, this fabric uses threads for the warp and weft, but what is more important is that the warp, or in the case of the present invention, a mixed fiber yarn in which the fine crimped yarn is located in the surface layer, It is arranged on the surface of the fabric. For this reason, in the present invention, two methods described below are used. One of them is to use the warp yarns made of the mixed fiber yarn as the Ion Mim with a ratio of floating number to sinking number of 2 to 1 or more, preferably 3: It is preferable to select one having a ratio of 1:1 or more, more preferably 4:1 or more. Examples of such textures include slant weave, satin weave, and textures that are a combination of these. The above-mentioned structure is different from a plain weave structure, etc., in that the ratio of the warp threads appearing on the surface is large, and the area of the sunken part of the warp threads is small, so that the warp threads are more likely to be exposed than the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sunken warps. For this reason, the texture of the mixed fiber yarn used as the warp is more likely to appear. However, the floating number of warp threads is 7:1.
If the warp yarn exceeds this range, the warp threads will lift up and become loop-like or fluffy, so it is preferable to keep the warp threads within this range. On the other hand, another method is to make the fineness of the weft (total fineness) larger than that of the warp, and the total fineness of the weft is 2.5 to 5.0 times that of the warp. It is preferable to have a total fineness. In the case of the present invention, the weft yarns are highly twisted into a circular shape due to strong twisting, while the warp yarns are simply mixed fiber yarns, that is, untwisted or twisted yarns, and therefore have low convergence and are easily unraveled. If the fineness of the weft is increased as described above, even in a plain weave, the distance between adjacent intersection points of the warp and weft becomes longer, and therefore the warp bends greatly around the circular weft and at the same time becomes separated. The warp single yarns float in a loop shape and become diffused on the surface of the two-piece fabric. Note that in the present invention, the above two methods may be used in combination. When using the above-mentioned high-shrinkage filaments, the wood-mixed fiber yarn floating on the surface of the woven fabric by these methods will cause the crimped yarn to move further to the surface layer and spread due to the heat treatment described below, expanding the surface of the woven fabric by about 80 times. Even when I observed it, I could hardly see any weft threads. Therefore, it can be said that the surface of the present woven fabric is substantially covered by warp yarns, that is, fine crimped yarns having a single filament fineness. (Refer to No. 1M) The present fabric preferably has a structure in which the total value of the diameter and weft of the cover factor, which is expressed as the number of threads per inch x eyebrows, is about 2,000 to 5,000. Furthermore, in the present invention, it is preferable to apply an alkali weight loss of about 10 to 30% in order to obtain a soft feel and drapability. Various powers such as dyeing, raising, flexibility, antistatic, water repellency etc. on this fabric 11
Of course, it is also possible to carry out modifications. Further, as described above, when high shrinkage filaments and low shrinkage crimped yarns are used as the mixed yarn, it is necessary to shrink the high shrinkage filaments by heat treatment after weaving. Furthermore, when a crimped yarn produced by false twisting with two heaters is used as the crimped yarn, the crimping is uniform but the bulkiness is low, so under the relaxing conditions before dyeing, the
The material should be directly immersed in hot water (90'C or higher) to induce crimp as much as possible. On the other hand, when using the 1-heat method (reverse twisting force) using ki'6 yarn, the relaxation condition is relatively low temperature, for example, 6
The temperature may be 0 to 80°C. (Example) The methods for measuring various data in the present invention are as follows. 1. Shrinkage rate Take the skein that has been removed five times with a skein removal machine and immerse it in boiling water at 95-100'C for 1 minute under a load of O,OO 1g/d to shrink it, and after drying, reduce the original length to 11, Let β be the length after contraction, and find it using the following formula. 2 Denier JIS l, -1013 method 3. Cover factor Number of threads per inch x J" (D is denier) 9 Elasticity recovery rate JIS-L-109010, (Formula calculation formula % formula % Riichi fineness (denier) SG-specific gravity (polyester 1.38) 1], Drape coefficient A value obtained from the following formula using the characteristic values obtained by the KES method (a texture evaluation method devised by Professor Takao Yobata of Kyoto University). The smaller the value, the better the drape. J2HB + 3 52. 5 5 X X 5.
3 4 Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was melted using an extruder, extruded through an orifice heated to 295"C, and wound at 1100 m/min to obtain an undrawn yarn. The undrawn yarn was heated at 80° 3 with a stretching roller heated to C.
．． A highly shrinkable polyester filament of 50 d/48 f was obtained by stretching 85 times (hot water shrinkage rate: 15.8%). Next, ordinary polyester filaments 50d/48f were false-twisted in a two-step process under the following conditions to obtain a crimped yarn. The hot water shrinkage rate of the false twisted yarn is 3.5%, and the stretch recovery rate is 14.
It was 8%. False twisting condition spindle rotation speed 400. OOOrpm, t2A yarn S direction 3.124T/M Feed rate 1st +2% 21.2.5% Heater temperature 1215°C 2205°C Then, high shrinkage polyester filament and polyester false twisted yarn are mixed by air jet. , a mixed fiber yarn of 100d/96f was obtained. On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn 166 d/48 f with a birefringence index of 10×10−3 and a birefringence index of 48×
10-' polyethylene terephthalate semi-drawn yarn 230
d/72 f were aligned and stretched and false twisted using a circumscribing friction disk to obtain a composite plate yarn of 250 d/120 f. The false twisting conditions are as follows. Speed ratio (D/¥) 0.3. Stretching ratio】
,6. The heater temperature was 160°C, and then the mixed yarn was heated to 5480°C.
Additional twist (13500 T/M) was applied to the warp, and composite board single yarn was additionally twisted at 5100 OT/M and used for spinning.
A sheet-warped satin fabric was obtained. The fabric was relaxed at 95°C to shrink the high shrinkage polyester filaments, resulting in a 20% alkaline loss;
The fabric was dyed and heat-scented to obtain the actual fabric. The resulting fabric had a warp count of 199 wood/inch, a Pj yarn count of 85 wood/inch, the warp was exposed on the surface, and had a soft, cashmere-like feel. The physical properties of the fabric are shown below. Drape factor 15.2 Eye size 214. g/rr+2 thickness
0.52 mm m cover factor 32
00 The warp cross section of the fabric is shown in FIG. 1 (b) as an electron micrograph (80 times magnification). As is clear from the figure, the surface (upper part) of the fabric is almost covered with the crimped yarns having a fineness of H. Comparative Example 1 A plain woven fabric using the mixed yarn used in Example 1 for the warp and weft was relaxed and dyed in hot water at 95°C. The fabric was set to obtain a woven fabric (warp: 130 pieces/inch, weft: 86 pieces/inch). The resulting fabric had a hard, paper-like texture. In addition, an electron micrograph (80 mm) of the warp cross section of the fabric is shown in Figure 2.
times). As is clear from the figure, both the warp and the weft can be seen on the surface (upper side) of the fabric. Example 2 Individual viscosity 0.6 copolymerized with 8 mol% isophthalic acid
8 polyethylene terephthalate at a base temperature of 290'
The yarn was extruded at C and wound at 1500 m/min to obtain an undrawn yarn. This yarn was drawn 2.71 times in a heating row at 85°C to obtain a highly shrinkable polyester filament of 30'd/24f (thermal acid value 32.0%). Next, the high shrinkage yarn of the two-heater false twisted yarn of 50 d/48 f obtained in Example 1 was mixed with the high shrinkage yarn using an air jet to obtain a mixed fiber yarn of 80 d/72 f. On the other hand, undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn 290d/48f with a birefringence index of 27 A thick and fine false twisted yarn of 48 f was obtained. The false twisting conditions are as follows. Processing speed: 100 m/min, stretching ratio: 1.65. Stretching temperature: Room temperature, false twist overfeed "-6%. False twisting temperature: 180°C, number of false twists: 2250t/M Next, the above mixed yarn is additionally twisted at S 250T/M to form thick and fine false twisted yarns into warp yarns. After doubling the two yarns, the L weft was additionally twisted at 5600 T/m (twist coefficient 9300) to obtain a 3/1 diagonal fabric.The fabric was relaxed at 95°C to shrink the high shrinkage polyester filaments. , followed by 20% alkali loss
was applied and dyed. The obtained fabric has a warp number of 178 wood/in, a weft number of 72 wood/in,
It had a soft, cashmere-like texture. The physical properties of the fabric are as follows. Drape factor 13.6" 185 g/m2
Thickness: 0.47 mm Cover factor: 2800 Example 3 Added 2% fluorine +8 water agent to the fabric used in Example 1.
t (d dressing, finishing cent (haking) 180
It was applied for 130 seconds at °C. The fabric is JIS L-109
When water repellency was measured using 2 (spray method), IB water change was 1.
The water repellency was 00 points higher. Example 4 Undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn 240 d/72 f with a birefringence index of 10×10−3 and a birefringence index of 46×IO−3
' polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn 225d/'
36f and stretched and false-twisted using a circumscribed friction disk.
A composite plate strand of 90 d/108 f was obtained as in Example 1. Next, the 100 d/96 f mixed yarn used in Example 1 was twisted at 5480 T/M to become the warp, and the composite plate twisted yarn was twisted at 51
500T/M and Z1500T/M) (twist coefficient 2)
], 500) to obtain a hand-woven fabric in which the wefts were alternately used. The fabric was relaxed at 95°C to shrink the high shrinkage polyester filaments, resulting in a 20% alkali weight loss.
Dyeing, heat-seating and knotting were performed to obtain the actual fabric. The obtained fabric has a warp count of 201 pieces/inch and a weft count of 60 pieces/inch.
In inches, the warp threads were exposed on the surface, and it had a soft, cashmere-like feel. The physical properties of the outer fabric are shown below. Drape factor 14.6 Eye size 200g/rn2 thickness
0.49 mm Hippo factor 2900 The warp cross section of the outer fabric is shown in FIG. 1 (c) as an electron micrograph (80 times magnification). As is clear from the figure, the surface (upper side) of the fabric is almost completely covered with fine crimped yarns. (Effects of the Invention) The fabric according to the present invention has a soft surface feel and a cashmere-like texture with drapability. It is possible. Moreover, the fabric can be efficiently produced by the wooden sword method, and the invention is clear from the beginning.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an electronic iJi copy otoscopic photograph showing the weft side of a woven fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a comparative example woven fabric, showing the shape of the fibers. =23-

Claims (4)

[Claims] (1) A mixed yarn consisting of a crimped yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less and a flat yarn, in which the crimped yarn is substantially located in the surface layer, is used as the warp yarn, while a strongly twisted yarn with a twist coefficient of 5,000 to 30,000 is used. 1. A cashmere-like woven fabric having a texture in which the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sinks in the warp is 2:1 or more. (2) A mixed yarn consisting of a crimped yarn and a flat yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 deniers or less, with the crimped yarn substantially located in the surface layer, is used for the warp, while the twist coefficient is 5,000 to 30,000.
1. A cashmere-like woven fabric using highly twisted yarns as weft yarns, the weft yarns having a larger fineness than the warp yarns. (3) A mixed yarn consisting of a high shrinkage filament with a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more and a low shrinkage crimped yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less is used for the warp, and a strongly twisted yarn with a twist coefficient of 5,000 to 30,000 is used as the weft. The ratio of the number of floating warps to the number of sinking threads is 2.
A method for producing a cashmere-like fabric, which comprises weaving the filament so that it has a fiber density of 1 or more, and then heat-treating the filament to shrink the high-shrinkage filament. (4) A mixed yarn consisting of a high shrinkage filament with a boiling water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more and a low shrinkage crimped yarn with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less is used for the warp, and the fineness is thicker than the warp and the twist coefficient is 5.
1. A method for producing a cashmere-like fabric, which comprises weaving using high-twist yarns of 000 to 30,000 as weft yarns, and then subjecting the weaving to heat treatment to shrink the highly shrinkable filaments.