JP2561581B2 - Cashmere fabric and method of manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a synthetic fiber woven fabric having a feel and a texture similar to that of a cashmere fabric and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art There is a demand for a material having a soft texture for ladies' clothing and the like, and it is well known that a so-called cashmere yarn using high-grade wool is the most suitable material. However, because cashmere yarn is extremely expensive,
It would be advantageous if similar texture could be obtained using cheap synthetic fibers. Generally, as a method of obtaining a soft touch and a feeling, it is known to use a fine fiber having a fineness of several denier or less. However, when weaving only with such yarns, yarn breakage frequently occurs, and it is difficult to obtain a high-quality woven fabric, and the woven fabric also has low strength and lacks a feeling of tension. For this reason, the fine-thinness yarn as described above is mixed and used with other yarns. For example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-13554
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 0 (Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-1417) describes a woven fabric that uses a mixed yarn composed of a fine-pitch false-twist yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less and a high shrinkage filament. However, this is intended to obtain a waterproof cloth having a breathable property by densifying the woven fabric by the contracting action of the high shrinkage filament component and the like. It was hard to obtain a product having a touch and a feel, and it was hard to be a paper-like product, and it was easy to win. Therefore, we make full use of the soft texture of the fine fiber, and have conducted repeated studies to provide a woven fabric that is rich in drape and has a good texture. A cashmere-like woven fabric is obtained by using a mixed filament yarn composed of a shrinkable filament and a low shrinkage crimped yarn having a fineness of 1.5 denier or less for the warp After finding that it can be manufactured, a patent application was filed as Japanese Patent Application No. 2-313669. By this method, a woven fabric having a very good feel can be obtained, but the drape property is still lacking, and there are defects in appearance such that the texture appears streaky on the surface.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a further improvement of the woven fabric for which the above-mentioned patent application has been made, and it has a very smooth texture of cashmere which does not show a texture on the surface and has a uniform and natural appearance as a whole. An object is to provide a synthetic fiber woven fabric.

[0004]

The present invention has solved the above problems by using a special composite yarn. That is, the woven fabric of the present invention has a heat shrinkable yarn of single yarn denier 2 to 6 and a high count false twist yarn of single yarn denier of 1.5 or less from 50:50.
After weaving using 30:70 mixed yarn at least as warp,
The heat-shrinkable yarn is heat-shrinkable, and as the heat-shrinkable yarn, a composite yarn in which two kinds of components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more are eccentrically combined is used. And

In the present invention, the mixed yarn composed of the heat-shrinkable yarn and the false twisted yarn having a very low fineness is used for the warp yarn as described above. The heat-shrinkable yarn has a large boiling water shrinkage ratio. Since the two different components are eccentrically combined and composed of a composite yarn, by heat-treating the resulting fabric after the weaving without substantially applying tension, the heat shrinkability of the mixed yarn is obtained. Because the yarn shrinks, the heat-shrinkable yarn becomes the core, and the surroundings are covered in a crimped state so that the thin false-twisted yarn becomes the sheath, and at the same time, the heat-shrinkable yarn itself becomes the eccentric shrinkage. , A brushed, cashmere-like product with a very natural appearance and a pleasant touch.

The heat-shrinkable yarn, that is, the composite yarn, used in the present invention may be an eccentric composite of two components having a difference in shrinkage of boiling water of 15% or more, preferably 20% or more. However, it is usually preferable that the components having a low boiling water shrinkage ratio and the components having a high boiling water shrinkage ratio be in a ratio of about 30:70 to 60:40, and the shape thereof is side-by-side or a core with a sheath-core structure. Examples include eccentric ones.

Next, the false-twisted yarn used for the mixed fiber is a high-count false-twisted yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less, and a false-twisted yarn processed under general conditions can be used. For example, in the case of a 75 denier filament, the twist number is 3100 to 3700T.
/ M, 3900 for a 50 denier filament
It is preferable to use the one processed at ~ 4500 T / M, and when the false-twisted yarn of 1 heater is used, the expansion and recovery ratio is 35 to 50%, the crimp is strong, and the surface of the woven fabric may be disturbed. It is preferred to use false twisted yarns for the heater. As mentioned above, it is essential that the single yarn denier is 1.5 denier or less, but if it exceeds 1.5 denier, the soft texture of the surface layer part will be deteriorated and the product having the desired texture will be obtained. This is because the For polyester fibers, etc., if the single yarn fineness is usually less than 0.5 denier, the strength decreases and it becomes unsuitable for external clothing applications.
Generally, it is preferable to use one having a range of 1.5 to 0.5 denier.

The mixed yarn used in the present invention can be obtained by various methods using the above-mentioned composite yarn and false twisted yarn. Generally, a low shrinkage filament is used as the false twisted yarn and The composite yarn is interlaced,
It is preferable that the fibers are entangled with each other to form a mixed yarn.

Although the woven fabric of the present invention is woven using such a mixed yarn as the warp, the same mixed yarn can be used as the weft. However, as the weft, it is preferable to use a yarn having a fineness larger than that of the warp, and particularly,
It is preferable to use a strongly twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30000. When the twist coefficient is 5000 or less, the tightness of the yarn is eliminated, and the texture becomes damp, and the desired drape property cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient exceeds 30,000, the texture becomes hard and the purpose is also achieved. Drapability cannot be obtained.

As such a strongly twisted yarn, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No.
As described in JP-A-9-24212, one having a two-layer structure in which a drawn yarn and an undrawn yarn are false-twisted at the same time to arrange the drawn yarn in the core portion and the undrawn yarn in the sheath portion, or JP-B-58. -12
As described in Japanese Patent No. 940, a non-stretched yarn and a semi-stretched yarn are simultaneously drawn and false-twisted to form a two-layer structure as described above.
When the composite false-twisted yarn having a two-layer structure is twisted, even if the core yarn is strongly twisted, the sheath yarn is not strongly twisted and bulkiness remains, which is preferable. In addition, when a false-twisted yarn of a thick thin yarn is used as the weft, a dry-touch woven fabric having a tight feeling due to a thick portion having low orientation can be obtained. As such a thin yarn,
For example, as described in JP-A-63-256733, there may be mentioned those obtained by cold-drawing and false-twisting a non-drawn yarn after allowing it to relax.

As described above, the woven fabric of the present invention uses the yarn as the warp and the weft. More importantly, in the case of the present invention, the fine fineness false twisted yarn is located in the surface layer portion. A special mixed yarn is placed on the surface of the fabric as much as possible. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable that the woven design is such that the ratio of the ups and downs of the warp composed of the mixed fiber is 2: 1 or more, preferably 3: 1 or more, more preferably 4: 1 or more. . Examples of such a structure include a twill weave, a satin weave, and a combination of these. However, if the floating number of the warp threads exceeds 7: 1, the warp threads may float and form a loop or fluff, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, the weft yarn fineness (total fineness)
Is preferably larger than the warp, as described above, but the fineness thereof is 2.5 to 5.0 times the total fineness of the warp, specifically, the total fineness of about 100 to 400 denier. It is preferable that When a strong twist yarn is used as the weft yarn, the strong twist causes the weft yarn to be highly bundled in a circular shape, while the warp yarn is a simple mixed fiber yarn, that is, untwisted or sweet twisted, and thus has a low convergence and is easily dislocated. Therefore, by increasing the fineness of the weft yarn as described above, even if the warp does not float,
The distance between the adjacent crossing points of the warp and the weft becomes long, so that the warp largely bends around the circular weft, and at the same time, the loose warp single yarn floats up like a loop and diffuses on the surface of the fabric. It is possible to obtain a product with a good texture.

Further, in the present invention, in order to provide a soft feeling and drapability, when polyester fiber is used, it is preferable to carry out alkali weight loss of about 10 to 30%. It is needless to say that the woven fabric of the present invention may be subjected to various processes such as dyeing, raising, softening, antistatic and water repellent.

In order to obtain the cashmere-like woven fabric of the present invention, it is necessary to heat-treat the fabric after weaving to shrink the heat-shrinkable yarn of the mixed yarn, that is, the composite yarn. In the previous relaxation step, it is preferable to directly immerse the woven fabric in hot water of high temperature (90 ° C. or higher).

[0015]

[Example] The following three kinds of yarns A to C were prepared, and A, B and A were prepared.
And C are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1 respectively, and mixed yarns W1 and W
2 was obtained. A. False twisted yarn (3.5% boiling water shrinkage) obtained by false twisting a normal polyester filament with a 2-heater method-75
d / 72f. B. Polyester terephthalate (shrinkage rate of boiling water 5-7
%) And an isophthalic acid copolymer high shrinkage polyester (boiling water shrinkage 30-40%) 1: 1 side-by-side composite yarn-50d / 12f. C. Multifilament yarn made of isophthalic acid copolymer high shrinkage polyester (boiling water shrinkage 30-40%)-5
0d / 12f.

Table 1 shows the physical properties of the raw yarns B and C and the physical properties of the mixed yarns W1 and W2. However, the measuring method of each data is as follows. 1. Boiled water shrinkage: Take a cassette with a cassette remover 5 times, immerse it in hot water at 95 to 100 ° C. for 1 minute under a load of 0.001 g / d, shrink it, and dry it to recover the original length. L ₁ and the length after contraction are L _2, and [(L ₁ −L ₂ ) / L ₁ ] × 1
It was calculated as 00 (%). 2. Denier: Determined by the JIS-L-1090 method. 3. Strength / elongation / stretch recovery rate: Determined by the JIS-L-1090 method. Table 1 Mixed yarn of raw yarn B C W1 W2 Denier 49.0 48.8 134.2 133.8 Strength 4.27 4.56 3.7 4.0 Elongation 35.2 29.0 27.6 30.3 Shrinkage rate of boiling water 34.3 35.6 27.8 29.9 Expansion recovery rate − − 13.3 4.2 Torque − − 37 16 Entangle − − 157 152 OPU (oil and fat) − − 1.06 1.50

The mixed yarns W1 and W2 thus obtained were used as warp yarns, and the composite false twisted yarn “Bell Ivy (5uw) -125d / 60f” manufactured by Kanebo Co., Ltd. was used as the weft yarns. Five pieces of satin weave (length 32m, width 137
cm, warp density 161 yarns / inch, weft yarn density 68 yarns / inch). Such a woven fabric was subjected to a relaxation treatment (120 ° C. × 20 minutes) with a jet dyeing machine, non-tension drying (170 ° C. × 60 seconds) with a shrink surfer, and then preset with a slight overfeed so as not to pull (190 ℃ × 30 seconds), then the steam method at 105 ℃ continuously reduced by 15%, 130% with a conventional jet dyeing machine
After dyeing at ℃ × 30 minutes, relax dry (170 ℃ × 60
Second) and processing according to the preset (170 ° C x 30 seconds)
Finished with.

The product thus obtained has a length of 25 m,
Width 124 cm, warp density 177 threads / inch, weft density 85
At the number of books / inch, a woven fabric having the warp exposed on the surface was obtained. Table 2 shows the comparison of the texture of each product. Table 2 Product 1 (using W1) Product 2 (using W2) Shrinkage Relatively weak Strength Thickness Small Large Hardness Flexible (with falling feeling and drapeability) Hard Raised appearance Uniform uniform streaky surface touch Good Poor According to the present invention The product 1 using the mixed fiber W1 including the special composite yarn is a cashmere which has a natural appearance and is drapeable and has a very good texture, in which the entire surface is uniformly covered with a fine fineness crimped yarn. It became a textured fabric. On the contrary,
Mixed yarn W simply containing highly shrinkable polyester filaments
The product 2 using No. 2 had a bad texture because the texture appeared streaky on the surface and lacked drape. This is probably because the composite yarn of the present invention shrinks three-dimensionally, whereas the shrinkable yarn of the comparative example shrinks linearly.

[0019]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, an inexpensive synthetic fiber can be used to obtain a woven fabric having a cashmere tone, a very good texture, and a high-grade feeling.

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Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A heat-shrinkable yarn having a single yarn denier of 2 to 6 and a high count false twist yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less are from 50:50.
A 30:70 mixed yarn is used for at least the warp yarn, and is woven so that the ratio of the floating number and the sinking number of the warp yarn is 2: 1 or more, and then the heat shrinkable yarn is heat-shrinked. As the heat shrinkable yarn, a cashmere-like woven fabric comprising a composite yarn in which two components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more are eccentrically combined. 2. A composite yarn of single yarn denier 2 to 6 in which two components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more are eccentrically combined, and a high count temporary yarn denier of 1.5 or less. A mixed yarn of 50:50 to 30:70 of twisted yarns is used as at least the warp yarn, and is woven so that the ratio of the floating number and the sinking number of the warp yarn is 2: 1 or more. A method for producing a cashmere-like woven fabric, which comprises immersing in hot water at a temperature of ℃ or higher.