JPS6323309B2 - - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention The present invention uses a composite structure yarn obtained by blending two types of ultrafine fibers of 0.7 d or less with different heat shrinkage rates for the weft yarn, thereby achieving high fluff density and tear strength. The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like raised fabric with excellent drapability.

Conventionally, raised fabrics are produced by raising fabrics using fine-grained fibers for the raised wefts in order to obtain a soft texture, but when the nap density is particularly high, many of the fibers forming the wefts are It is cut during the raising process,
The tear strength of the fabric in the weft direction was significantly reduced.

The present invention was carried out in view of the current situation, and an object of the present invention is to obtain a suede-like raised fabric having good napping properties, high fluff density, tear strength, and excellent drape properties. In order to achieve this object, the present invention has the following configuration.

That is, the present invention has a total denier of 50 to 50, which is made of fibers with almost no crimp as warp yarns.
Using 300d multifilament yarn, the weft is a bundle of ultra-fine fibers with a fineness of 0.7d or less.
Using a yarn in which two types of filament yarns with a difference in heat shrinkage rate are in the range of 5 to 40% are intertwined, a double-sided fabric in which the number of floating yarns of the weft to the warp is 3 to 7 is woven, heat treated, This is a method for producing suede-like raised fabric, which is characterized by carrying out raising on both sides after refining and dyeing.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The fibers referred to in the present invention are polyamide synthetic fibers,
Composed of polyester synthetic fibers, polyolefin synthetic fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers,
Alternatively, it may be a recycled fiber such as rayon or Kyupura. Such ultrafine fibers may be produced by any method. Total denier of warp yarns made of fibers with almost no crimp
It is a multifilament yarn of 50~300d. In the present invention, the fiber with almost no crimp is one that has been spun and drawn, and the filament itself has never been subjected to torque due to false twisting, abrasion processing, or the like. If the total denier is 50d or less, the texture after brushing is soft and the drapability is good, but
Because the fineness of the warp yarns is small, the fabric becomes flat, resulting in poor napping properties and insufficient fabric strength.If the total denier is 300d or more, even if a filament yarn with a fine single yarn fineness is used, the texture will be stiff and the drapability will be poor. It is difficult to obtain brushed fabrics with excellent quality. Further, when processed yarn is used, the volume becomes large, and drapability cannot be obtained, making it difficult to make suede-like fabrics thinner. In the present invention, the weft is made of a bundle of ultrafine fibers with a fineness of 0.7 d or less, and is made by intertwining two types of filaments with a difference in heat shrinkage rate in the range of 5 to 40%. Neither of the two types of single yarn fineness is less than 0.7d,
That is, if one or more of them is 0.7d or more, the effect on the texture of the thick yarn becomes large, and it is not possible to obtain a yarn with supple drapability and high fluff density. In the present invention, the difference in heat shrinkage rate between the two types of fibers must be in the range of 5 to 40%. By having such a difference in heat shrinkage rate, fibers with a high shrinkage rate sink into the base fabric during processes such as heat treatment, and fibers with a low shrinkage rate float on the base fabric, greatly improving napping properties and reducing fluff density. You can get something expensive. High shrinkage fibers can maintain tear strength without being affected by napping. Furthermore, since the fabric has different shrinkage rates, it can be dyed into a color tone with an iridescent effect by performing ordinary raising, heat treatment, scouring, and dyeing.
In the present invention, since the weft constituent fibers are 0.7 d or less, the volume can be suppressed and excellent drape properties can be obtained. Furthermore, if the shrinkage rate difference between the two types of fibers that make up the weft is less than 5%, the above-mentioned effect cannot be obtained, whereas if the heat shrinkage difference is 40% or more, the shrinkage rate of the yarn is high and normal raising or heat treatment is not possible. The products obtained through , smelting and dyeing have grain patterns, which significantly deteriorate the quality of the fabric. Further, in the present invention, interlaced filament yarns are used as the weft yarns, but the fiber bundle entangling method includes a method using fluid or static electricity. The method preferably used as the fiber bundle entanglement method using a fluid is an air injection method using air as the fluid, which is usually called Taslan processing, and is a method that is widely used when manufacturing spun-like long fiber woven and knitted fabrics. be. That is, in the air injection method, compressed air is applied to the fiber bundle to entangle the fiber bundle by the action of air turbulence. In addition, in the electrostatic fiber bundle entangling method, fiber bundles are passed through a high voltage electric field.
This is an entangling method that utilizes the fibrillation effect of the fiber bundle due to the static electricity generated at that time. In this case, two types of single filaments having different heat shrinkage rates are intertwined depending on the fluff density, fluff length, and drapability of the target double-sided raised fabric by appropriately adjusting the amount of overflow between the supply roller and the take-up roller. I'll go with it. By using this interlaced filament yarn as the weft yarn, there is an advantage that the napping property in the napping process performed after weaving is improved and the fluff density is increased.

Regarding the weft yarns, the aforementioned weft yarns may be twisted together if necessary. In the plying and twisting process, the first weft and the second weft are aligned, and after the plying, either the yarn is twisted by a double twister or the yarn is twisted by a pliable twister, but the number of twists is in the range of 50 to 400 T/M. Let's do it. This is because when the number of twists is 50 T/M or less, the number of filaments is large, unlike the usual weaving of thick yarns, and if the yarn convergence is poor, the weaving efficiency will decrease. In addition, when the number of twists exceeds 400T/M, the weaving efficiency and quality of the fabric decrease due to the occurrence of fraying due to the twisted yarn, and furthermore, the length of the fluff, which is important in the napping process, is short, resulting in a decrease in the fluff density in the raised part and an increase in fluff shedding. This is because there is a risk that a high-quality raised fabric may not be obtained.

Next, a double-sided fabric is woven in which the number of floats of the weft yarns relative to the warp yarns is 3 to 7. This is because the double-sided structure is suitable for raising, and the number of floats of the weft yarns relative to the warp yarns is 3.
This is because a double-sided texture with a rating of 7 to 7 is good in terms of napping properties, length of fluff after napping, and density. It is difficult to raise the double-sided fabric with a floating number of 2 or less relative to the weft yarn, and conversely, if the number of floats is 8 or more, the length of the fluff after raising becomes long and the fluff density becomes low. Such a double-sided fabric is woven and subjected to heat treatment, refining, and dyeing using conventional methods. The heat applied here causes the high-shrinkage fibers to sink into the fabric, maintaining its strength without being affected by napping. Next, the surface of the fabric is subjected to double-sided raising treatment. A normal cloth-type napper is sufficient for the napping machine. In the heat-treated fabric, the low-shrinkage fibers are slightly raised on the surface due to the contraction of the high-shrinkage fibers, resulting in extremely good napping properties and a high fluff density.

What is obtained by performing this series of processing is
It has high fluff density while maintaining tear strength.
The result is a suede-like brushed fabric with a high-quality, supple surface touch and excellent drape properties.

Next, the method of the present invention will be explained using Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example 1 Normal polyester multifilament 75d/36f was used as the warp, and highly shrinkable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 50d/36f with a heat shrinkage rate different by 15% was used as the weft.
Taslan processing of 72f and low shrinkage polyester 50d/96f at the same time (however, the overfeed rate of high shrinkage yarn is 10% and the overfeed rate of low shrinkage yarn is 30%)
shall be. ) A double-sided five-ply satin fabric was woven using Taslan yarn twisted at 80T/M. Next, this fabric was subjected to heat treatment, refining, and dyeing in a conventional manner, and then raised treatment was applied to both sides of the fabric using a cloth-type napping machine.

The obtained fabric was a suede-like raised fabric with very good napping properties, high fluff density, and sufficient weft strength, and was rich in supple surface touch, writing effect, and drapability.

Example 2 Nylon long fiber warp 75d/72f raw yarn, weft:
[70d/132f highly oriented undrawn yarn is used as a core yarn, and 70d/132f, which has a lower shrinkage rate than the highly oriented undrawn yarn, is made of a tree component (thermal shrinkage rate difference: 30%).The yarn is overfeed of the core yarn. The amount is 7%, and the overfeed amount of treetop yarn is
Taslan processing is applied to 15%, and this Taslan processed yarn is twisted with a double twister to 300T/
A 7-ply satin fabric was woven using M-twisted yarn, and then relaxed, refined, and dyed in the usual manner.

This fabric was subjected to a needle cloth napping process in the usual way, and as a result, it had very good napping properties and a high fluff density.
Moreover, we created a suede-like fabric that closely resembles thin natural leather with excellent drape properties.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Multifilament yarn with a total denier of 50 to 300 d made of fibers with almost no crimp is used as the warp, and a bundle of ultrafine fibers with a fineness of 0.7 d or less is used as the weft, and the difference in heat shrinkage rate is 5 to 40%. Using a yarn in which two types of filament yarns in the range of
A method for producing a suede-like raised fabric, characterized by carrying out raising on both sides after dyeing.