JP2882874B2 - Crepe fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a creped fabric, and more particularly, to a crepe-like fabric.
The present invention relates to a crepe-like woven fabric using a plied yarn utilizing the properties of a composite false twisted yarn.

[Prior Art] Conventionally, there is a crepe fabric commonly called moss crepe. This type of crepe woven fabric is a woven fabric using yarns obtained by ply twisting yarns having different twists in the number of twists. There is known a woven fabric using a ply-twisted yarn obtained by adding a strong twist to a rayon yarn or an acetate yarn and twisting the resulting yarn, and then adding a twist to the yarn. In the woven fabric, creping occurs on the surface of the woven fabric due to the structure of the twisted yarn. However, when a water-absorbing material such as rayon yarn is used, there is a problem in that the durability of the crepe is poor and dimensional stability is poor, and in the case of rayon yarn, there is also a problem in terms of abrasion.

The use of polyester fibers to make this kind of woven fabric improves dimensional stability, but polyester is not water-absorbing, so it cannot be processed using swelling properties and has a sufficiently deep crepe appearance, softness, It lacked a feeling of swelling and could not obtain a unique texture like moss crepe.

[Object of the Invention] An object of the present invention is to solve the conventional problems described above, eliminate the problems of abrasion and dimensional stability, have a swelling feeling and a soft feeling, and have a sufficient repulsion property. It is to propose.

[Configuration of the Invention The present invention is lower twist coefficient in the polyester multifilament yarn: a twist in the range of 15,000 ≦ K ₁ ≦ 30,000 granted as K _1, the lower twist coefficient in the composite false twisted yarn: as K ₂ , 1300 ≦ K ₂
It is woven using a yarn obtained by twisting a polyester multifilament yarn and a composite false twisted yarn that give a twist of ≤20,000 and the twist coefficient satisfies the relationship of K ₁ > K _2. Crepe-like fabric.

The yarn used in the woven fabric of the present invention is a polyester multifilament yarn obtained by applying a strong twist having a twist coefficient in the above range as a lower twist (strong twisted yarn) and a yarn obtained by applying a twist in the above range to a composite false twisted yarn. (Composite false twisted yarn).

Known polyester multifilament yarns can be used, but those having a high shrinkage ratio are preferred. For example, those having a shrinkage of 10% or more are preferable, and those having a shrinkage of 15% or more are more preferably used. To increase the shrinkage, a polyester containing 10 mol% of isophthalic acid can be used.

The said polyester multifilament yarns have been strong twist is imparted, if Shimese in the range of twist coefficient K _1, 15,000 ≦ K ₁ ≦
30,000 things are used.

15,000> In K _1, untwisting force is insufficient to crepe hard to occur due to twisting, also can not be sufficiently ones steric weak even if it occurs. Further, the twist coefficient is K ₁ > 3
In the case of 0,000, the untwisting force is too strong to obtain a soft hand, and undesirably, the corners appear on the surface due to the strongly twisted yarn. As a preferable range of the twist coefficient, 18,0
00 ≦ K ₁ ≦ 22,000.

 In the present invention, the twist coefficient K is defined as follows.

Further, the high twist yarn preferably has a high shrinkage as described above, but has a peak of thermal stress in the temperature range of 100 to 190 ° C., and the thermal stress peak of the composite false twisted yarn described below. It is preferably higher than the thermal stress.

Next, as the composite false twisted yarn used in the present invention, a yarn obtained by simultaneous drawing false twisting of two kinds of polyester multifilament yarns having different elongations is optimally exemplified. Before or after the simultaneous drawing false twisting, it is preferable that the interlacing is performed by an interlace nozzle. In such a composite false twisted yarn, of the two types of polyester multifilament yarns, one having a low elongation is mainly disposed at the core of the composite false twisted yarn, and one having a high elongation is mainly disposed at the sheath. It has a structure to be performed. In addition, the fiber subjected to the entanglement treatment can be obtained as an integral composite yarn in which at least a part of the core fiber and the sheath fiber are entangled with each other.

The composite false twisted yarn thus has a core-sheath structure or a form similar thereto, but the fiber in the core and the fiber in the sheath have a difference in yarn length. The yarn length difference is 5-30
% Is preferably used. The yarn length difference is obtained by the following equation.

Yarn length difference = {(sheath fiber length−core fiber length) / (core fiber length)} × 100 If the yarn length difference is less than 5%, a swelling feeling is insufficient and a woven fabric having a favorable hand cannot be obtained. Conversely, if the yarn length difference exceeds 30%, the feeling of swelling is excessive and the feeling of flapping is increased, and the texture of the obtained fabric is not preferable. The preferred range of the yarn length difference is 8 to
20%.

Further, it is preferable to apply twist (primary twist) to the composite false twisting yarn before twisting with the strong twist yarn. As the ply twist coefficient: K ₂ , those in the range of 1,300 ≦ K ₂ ≦ 20,000 are preferably used. The twist coefficient K ₂ is
If it is less than 1,300, the form of the composite processed yarn cannot be characterized, and a favorable texture of the woven fabric cannot be obtained. Further,該撚coefficient K ₂ conversely, when it exceeds 20,000 inhibits sense bulge is characteristic of a composite false twisted yarn, texture becomes hard, and said strong when the strong twine and Goyo It is not preferable because the untwisting force of the twisted yarn is reduced. The twist coefficient K ₂ is
Those in the range of 6,500 ≦ K ₂ ≦ 14,000 are more preferred.

Further, it is necessary that the twist coefficient of both yarns satisfies the relationship of K ₁ > K ₂ .

While such is Goyo is a strong twisted yarn obtained with the composite false twisted textured yarn, the twist coefficient K ₃ in this case, 4,000 ≦ K ₃ ≦ 17,00
Those in the range of 0 are more preferably 5,000K ₃ ≦ 10,0
Those in the range of 00 are used.該撚coefficient K ₃ is 17,000
If it exceeds, the twist of the twisted yarn is too strong and the untwisting power of the strong twisted yarn is not exhibited, which is not preferable.

The direction of twisting of the plied yarn is not particularly limited,
In order to exhibit the effect of twisting, it is preferable that the direction of the ply twist of the strongly twisted yarn, the ply twist of the composite false twisted yarn, and the twist direction of the ply twisted yarn be the same. If one of the yarns is twisted in the opposite direction, a flat fabric appearance without a three-dimensional effect is obtained, which is not preferred in some cases.

The ratio of the total denier D ₁ and total denier D ₂ of the composite false twisted yarn of the reinforcing twisting (D ₂ / D ₁₎ is 0.75
Those in the range of 4.0, more preferably those in the range of 1.0 to 2.3 are used.

Weaving is performed using the plied yarn obtained in this manner. As the twisting direction of the plied yarn, one having a left twist direction and one having a right twist direction are prepared, and two yarns having the left twist direction and a right twist direction are provided. Thread 2
A book in which books are alternately arranged and woven in a satin texture is optimally exemplified.

[Function of the Invention] The woven fabric of the present invention has a swelling feeling, a soft feeling,
Obtained as a woven fabric with a rebound on the waist. In particular, the woven fabric of the present invention is a crepe woven fabric in which crepes having a rich hue and a deep hue are formed because the yarns constituting the woven fabric have a special form. The strong twist yarn used in the present invention develops a clamp due to shrinkage and untwisting force in the finishing process of the woven fabric, particularly in the relaxing process, and at this time, a swelling feeling and a soft feeling of the sweet twist composite false twisting yarn are obtained. Can be The composite false twisted yarn has a yarn length difference as described above. However, if a twist is applied to the yarn having such a form (within the range of the number of twists specified in the present invention), the core yarn is mainly twisted. Has the property of being concentrated. Moreover, although the yarn itself has the necessary repulsion due to the twist,
The appearance of the composite false twisted yarn is soft because the influence of twisting does not appear, and the feeling of swelling is maintained. When forming the ply twisted yarn used in the present invention, the twist is concentrated only on the core of the composite false twisted yarn, so that the composite false twisted yarn is wound around the strong twisted yarn. Crepe-like woven fabric having a swelling feeling and a soft feeling as described above.

[Example 1] Polyester multifilament yarn (100d) composed of polyethylene terephthalate containing isophthalic acid and 10 mol%
e / 36fil, boiling water shrinkage: 23%, thermal stress at 125 ° C: 4
7g), two types of strongly twisted yarns with S twist: 2,000 T / M and Z twist: 2,000 T / M were prepared as the primary twist, and a polyester multifilament yarn (50de / 24fil) with an elongation of 78% was drawn. A polyester multifilament yarn (82 de / 144 fil) having a degree of 115% is interlaced and interlaced at a confounding degree of 70 pieces / m, and then subjected to false twisting to produce a yarn having a high elongation with a low elongation. And a two-layer false twisted yarn (110 de / 168 fil) wound alternately around the bottom of the composite false twisted yarn (difference in yarn length between core fiber and sheath fiber: about 9%) S twist as twist: 4
Two types of composite false-twisted yarns having a thickness of 00 T / M and a Z twist of 400 T / M were obtained. When the strong twisted yarn and the composite false twisted yarn are combined, S
The twists are combined with each other and the Z twists are combined, and the twist is given to the S-twist, and the Z twist is given to the Z-twist. 400 T / M is used as the number of twists. The ply-twisted yarns obtained in this manner are arranged alternately in the weft through two S-twisted yarns and two Z-twisted yarns, and have a warp density of 84 / 3.79 cm and a weft density of 7
6 woven in a satin texture at a density of 3.79 cm, and the woven fabric is heated at a temperature of 10
The fabric was relaxed at 0 ° C. and finished in the usual fabric finishing process. The resulting woven fabric has a texture on the surface due to the untwisting force of the strong twisted yarn, and has a soft feeling and a deep hue due to the sheath yarn of the composite false twisted yarn wound around the strong twisted yarn. A crepe-like fabric rich in three-dimensional feeling was obtained.

[Example 2] A polyester multifilament yarn having an elongation of 120% (120de / 36fil) and a polyester multifilament yarn having an elongation of 380% were used as the composite false twisted yarn using the high twist yarn used in Example 1. (150de / 48fil) and interlacing with 55 entangles / m interlaced, then false twisting, and the high elongation yarn is alternately inverted around the low elongation yarn and wound. False twisted yarn with a two-layer structure (17
0de / 84fil), and the composite false twisted yarn (difference in yarn length between core fiber and sheath fiber: about 27%) as S-twist: 500T / M,
Z twist: Two types of composite false twisted yarns with 500 T / M were obtained.
When the strong twisted yarn and the composite false twisted yarn are combined, the S twists are combined and the Z twists are combined and combined. The first twist is the S twist and the first twist is the Z twist. Gives a Z-twist,
As the number of twists, S twist: 400 T / M and Z twist: 500 T / M are used. The ply-twisted yarns obtained in this way are arranged alternately in the weft through two S-twisted yarns and two Z-twisted yarns, and have a warp density of 76 yarns / 3.7
9cm, weft density 68 threads / 3.79cm density woven in satin texture,
The fabric was relaxed at a temperature of 100 ° C. and finished in a usual fabric finishing process. The resulting woven fabric has a texture on the surface due to the untwisting force of the strong twisted yarn, and has a soft feeling and a deep hue due to the sheath yarn of the composite false twisted yarn wound around the strong twisted yarn. A crepe-like fabric rich in three-dimensional feeling was obtained.

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Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] The polyester multifilament yarn is given a twist of 15,000 ≦ K ₁ ≦ 30,000 as the _primary twist coefficient: K ₁ and the composite false twisted yarn is a _primary twist coefficient: K ₂ of 1300 ≦ K _Two
It is woven using a yarn obtained by twisting a polyester multifilament yarn and a composite false twisted yarn that give a twist of ≦ 20,000 and the twist coefficient satisfies the relationship of K ₁ > K _2. Crepe-like fabric.