JP2540882B2 - Strongly twisted yarn fabric - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a strongly twisted yarn woven fabric using a bundled spun yarn that has an appropriate sharpness, is excellent in drape, is soft, and has a warm feeling.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, as a strongly twisted yarn woven fabric, a multi-filament yarn provided with a strong twist is used. However, the strongly twisted yarn woven fabric using the multifilament yarn to which the strong twist is applied has a fatal defect that it has a strong shearing feeling and lacks a warm feeling.

Therefore, attempts have been made to produce a strong twist yarn woven fabric by imparting strong twist to the ring spun yarn. However, although the strongly twisted yarn woven fabric obtained by this attempt has a warm feeling, since the yarn is originally actually twisted, the yarn lacks flexibility and lacks drapeability, and is similar to filament yarn. Since it is difficult to impart the strong twist of No. 3, there is a drawback that the feeling of shearing is poor.

In addition, a method of producing a strongly twisted yarn fabric by applying a strong twist to a ring spun yarn as a double yarn has been attempted, but in practice, it is difficult to apply the strong twist yarn, and therefore, there is little shearing feeling and a warm feeling,
A strong twisted yarn fabric having a well-balanced drape property and a crisp feeling has not been obtained.

Further, in recent years, various methods for producing a so-called bundled spun yarn using a fluid false twist nozzle have been studied, and a method for producing a textured fabric using the bundled spun yarn produced by these methods has been proposed. (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 52-8866
No. 2 bulletin). However, the woven fabric using the bound spun yarn obtained by this method has a warm feeling, but has a sharp feel. Further, this strongly twisted yarn woven fabric lacked drapeability.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the conventional woven fabric, has a warm texture, and has an appropriate sharpness,
It is an object of the present invention to provide a strong twist yarn fabric excellent in drape.

(Means for Solving Problems) The present invention has the following configuration in order to achieve such an object. That is, in the present invention, a plurality of bundled spun yarns each consisting of a core fiber bundle substantially consisting of staple fibers and a bundle fiber wound around the core fiber bundle are aligned and a twist coefficient of 3.5 to 10.0. A strong twist yarn woven fabric in which the strong twist yarn to which the strong twist is added is arranged as a single twist on the warp yarn and / or the weft yarn. The present invention will be described in detail below.

First, what is used for the warp and / or the weft of the strongly twisted yarn woven fabric of the present invention is a strongly twisted yarn in which a plurality of binding spun yarns are aligned and twisted at a twist coefficient of 3.5 to 10.0. Here, the above-mentioned bound spun yarn refers to a yarn consisting of a core fiber bundle which is substantially made of staple fibers, and a binding fiber wound around the core fiber bundle. Bound spun yarn is used for producing a warm feeling.

The fibers forming such a bundled spun yarn are substantially staple fibers. The staple fiber is substantially used in order to give warmth by making it like a spun yarn. The staple fibers may be of equal length or unequal length. The average fiber length of the staple fibers is preferably 25 to 100 mm, more preferably 30 to 80 mm. If it exceeds 100 mm, it approaches the filament and lacks warmth. On the other hand, if it is less than 25 mm, the filamentous uniformity is reduced and wrinkle spots occur. Further, the fineness (denier) of the staple fiber has a great influence on the flexibility of the yarn, and thus has a great influence on the uniformity of the untwisting force. Therefore, the fineness (denier) is preferably 0.1 to 2.0 denier, more preferably 0.3 to 1.0.
The range is denier. If it exceeds 2.0 denier, the flexibility of the yarn will be poor and the drape will be poor, and if it is less than 0.1 denier, the firmness and sharpness will be poor. The thickness of the above-mentioned bound spun yarn is preferably English-style cotton count.
16 to 200'S, more preferably 30 to 80'S. 200 ′
When it exceeds S, the worm feeling becomes poor, while when it is less than 16'S, the drape property becomes poor. The staple fiber material forming the bound spun yarn is preferably synthetic fiber, and more preferably polyester fiber. It is preferable that even polyester fibers have a shrinkage-producing stress (measured by a strain gauge) in hot water of 100 ° C. in the range of 0.05 to 0.35 g / d. In addition, a plurality of such bound spun yarns must be aligned and strongly twisted with a predetermined twist coefficient. The use of a plurality of united spun yarns is for providing warmth and excellent drapeability. From this point of view, 2 to 4 are preferable, and 2 to 3 are particularly preferable among the plurality. The twist coefficient applied to a plurality of the bound spun yarns should be in the range of 3.5 to 10.0, preferably 5 to 8. The twist coefficient K here is the twist number (t / in)
Is T, English count is N, and the number of aligned pieces is n, It is expressed. When the twist coefficient is less than 3.5, the sharpness becomes poor, and when the twist coefficient exceeds 10.0, the twist becomes unstable and the warmth is lost, which is not preferable. The added twist direction is both S twist and Z twist. The twisting direction may be the same as or opposite to the winding direction of the binding fiber, but is preferably the same as the winding direction. The S-strong twisted yarn or the Z-strong twisted yarn in which the above-mentioned predetermined twisting coefficient of the twist is added to a plurality of such bundled spun yarns is arranged as a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn by single twisting.

Next, what is used on the other side of the plurality of strong twisted yarns of the bound spun yarn is a strong twisted yarn of the bound spun yarn or a filament yarn other than the bound spun yarn, a strong twisted yarn such as a ring yarn. here,
The filament yarn means both a multifilament yarn and a monofilament yarn, and among them, the multifilament yarn is preferable because it gives silky luster to the strongly twisted yarn woven fabric. It is preferable that the multifilament yarn is substantially untwisted. The term "substantially untwisted" means that the number of twists is preferably 300 t / m or less, more preferably 250 t / m or less. Further, as the material of the filament yarn, polyester fiber is preferable.

Here, a method for producing the strongly twisted yarn woven fabric of the present invention will be described. First, a sliver is manufactured by using raw cotton of staple fibers that have been cut into equal lengths, or a sliver made of staple fibers of unequal length cuts is produced by cutting a tow or multifilament yarn. The sliver is then caused to wrap around a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle by the action of a swirling fluid flow using, for example, one fluid false twist nozzle, or The action of the fluid swirling fluid streams in opposite directions causes the binding fibers to wrap around a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle as described above. Of course, some filaments may be included in addition to the above staple fibers within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention, but staple fibers 10 are preferred.
0% is good. Further, a plurality of the bound spun yarns thus obtained are aligned and subjected to S twist or Z twist with a twist coefficient of 3.5 to 10.0. The binding fiber is wound in the Z direction and in the S direction, and a plurality of binding spun yarns whose winding direction is the Z direction are aligned to give a twist number in the Z direction. On the other hand, a strong twisted yarn is manufactured, and on the other hand, a plurality of bundled spun yarns whose winding direction is the S direction are aligned to give a twist number in the S direction to manufacture an S strong twisted yarn, and these Z strong twisted yarn or S strong twisted yarn is produced. It is arranged as a warp and / or weft by single twisting, and a strongly twisted yarn other than the binding spun yarn is placed as the other yarn, or a plurality of binding spun yarns in which the binding fiber is wound in the Z direction are drawn. The S strong twisted yarns are manufactured by uniformly providing the number of twists in the S direction, and the Z strong twisted yarns are manufactured by giving the number of twists in the Z direction.
Alternatively, S strong twisted yarns are used as warp yarns and / or weft yarns, the strong twisted yarns of yarns other than the bundled spun yarns are used as the remaining yarns, or a plurality of bundled spun yarns in which the winding direction of the bound fiber is the S direction are aligned and S
To produce S strong twisted yarns by giving the number of twists in the direction, to produce Z strong twisted yarns by giving the number of twists in the Z direction, and arrange these Z strong twisted yarns or S strong twisted yarns as single twists as warp and / or weft yarns. At least form a fabric. Before forming the above-mentioned woven fabric, each strongly twisted yarn is preferably subjected to a wet heat set at 80 to 105 ° C for 15 to 40 minutes, more preferably 90 to 100 ° C for 15 to 40 minutes. Then, the woven fabric is continuously relaxed, for example, in a spread form. At this time, the weight is reduced with caustic soda solution or the like at a weight reduction rate of 5 to 30%, preferably 15 to 25%. In addition, in order to prevent the cloth from curling, no graining treatment is performed. Otherwise, uneven dyeing will occur.

Further, dyeing and finishing are performed to produce a strong twist yarn woven fabric.

(Example) Example 1. As a warp, a strong twist yarn (Z2500t / m) of polyester multi-filament yarn (50 denier / 36 filament) is used as a weft yarn.
Bonded spun yarn 60'S made of staple fiber of 0.7 denier 44 mm unequal length cut (ken cut) polyester fiber
Align (winding direction of bundling fiber: Z) 2 pieces (Z is 2 for Z)
Book) It is a twisting machine with various twisting factors (additional twisting in the same direction as the winding direction of the binding fiber) with an Italy twisting machine, and it is set at 98 ° C for 40 minutes. Density 90 / i
The strong twisted yarn woven fabrics obtained by weaving the plain weave fabric of No. n, followed by relaxation treatment with a softener, weight reduction with caustic soda at a weight reduction rate of 20%, and finishing processing are shown in Table 1. It was

The twist coefficient in the table is From the formula, T is the twist number (t / in.), Ne is the English cotton count, and n is the value of K obtained by the number of assorted yarns. The sharpness indicates that ◎ is excellent, ○ is good, and × is good, and drape is ◎, excellent, ○, and △ are poor, and overall, ◎ is excellent and ○.
Is good, and Δ is poor. No. 1 was a strongly twisted yarn woven fabric with insufficient drapeability and overall, though it had insufficient untwisting power due to the low number of twists in the upper twist, and lacked a sense of crispness and warmth. On the other hand, in the case of NO.6, on the contrary, the number of twists was excessively large, so that the twist became unstable, the warmth was poor, the drape property was poor, and the overall poor. N0.2 to N5 are those of the present invention, and the intended strong twist yarn woven fabric was obtained. In particular, No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5 were particularly satisfactory in terms of sharpness, warmth, and drape.

Example 2 Ken-cut bundle spun yarn 60/1'S (average fiber length 44 mm)
Use the nozzle type binding spinning machine to set the winding direction of the wound fiber to Z
Direction, and then add two of these bundled spun yarns and add 1800 T / M of real twist in the Z direction to 98 ° C.
× 40 minutes with anti-rattle under the set conditions, and this yarn is warp and weft by twisting the warp density 62 threads / in. Weft density 58 threads / in.
Weaved plain weave with. The greige fabric was subjected to a relaxation treatment with a softer, a 15% weight loss treatment was performed with caustic soda, and then a dyeing treatment was carried out, resulting in a soft texture and warmth, excellent drapeability, and a strong twisted yarn woven fabric with an appropriate sharpness. It was well received.

(Effect of the invention) As described above, according to the present invention, there is an appropriate sharpness,
A strong twisted yarn fabric was produced which had a soft and warm feeling and was excellent in drapability, and this strong twisted yarn fabric was so excellent that it could not be thought of as using a bound spun yarn.

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A twisting coefficient of 3.5 to 1 by aligning a plurality of bundled spun yarns each consisting of a core fiber bundle substantially consisting of staple fibers and a bundle fiber wound around the core fiber bundle.
A strongly twisted yarn woven fabric, characterized in that the strongly twisted yarn added with a strong twist of 0.0 is arranged on the warp and / or the weft as a single twist.