JPH01148833A - Fabric using bundle spun yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain the subject woven fabric having a soft and warm feeling, a mild handle and an excellent drape by twisting a specific spun yarn of fasciated spinning, almost eliminating an uneven shape of appearance and using the yarn as warp and/or weft. CONSTITUTION: A spun yarn of fasciated spinning obtained by winding a binding yarn around the circumference of a substantially nontwist fiber bundle of core has <=1.3 denier, preferably 0.3-1.0 denier of the fineness of staple fiber of the spun yarn of fasciated spinning, <=100 mm, preferably 3-80 mm average fiber length and is twisted so as to have <=4.0, preferably <=3.0 twist multiplier by an inch method and to almost eliminate an uneven shape on the surface of the spun yarn of fasciated spinning. The twisted yarn is used warp and/or weft to form a woven fabric.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a textile fabric using bound spun yarn that has a soft, warm feel, mild texture, and excellent drapability.

(Prior Art) In recent years, various methods of producing so-called bound spun yarns using fluid false twisting nozzles have been studied.

This bound spun yarn consists of a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle and bound fibers wound around the core fiber bundle. A knitted fabric using such a bound spun yarn has also been introduced (Japanese Patent Publication No. 43573/1983). This knitted fabric has a georgette-like texture with a crisp feel due to the use of a bound spinning system that gives an uneven appearance. This knitted fabric uses bundled fibers wound in the Z direction and bundled fibers wound in the S direction to take advantage of the uneven shape unique to the bundled spun yarn.

(Problem to be solved by the invention) However, although this knitted fabric has a crisp feel,
The texture was hard and lacked warmth. If this is the case,
Although the textured appearance gives it a crisp feel, it is thought that the presence of the white portion gives it a hard texture. Moreover, drapability was also poor.

The present invention aims to provide a woven fabric using bound spun yarn that has a soft, warm and mild texture and has excellent drapability.

(Means for solving the problems) The present invention takes the following means to solve the problems. That is, in the present invention, the twisted yarn has almost no uneven appearance of the bundled spun yarn, which is composed of a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle and bundled fibers wound around the core fiber bundle, and the warp. A woven fabric in which either one of the weft yarns or both the warp yarn and the weft yarn is used, and the twisted yarn has a twist coefficient of 4.
0 or less twist is present, and the average fiber length of the staple fibers constituting the bound spun yarn is 100 mm or less,
This is a woven fabric using bound spun yarn characterized in that the fineness of the staple fibers is 1.3 denier or less.

The present invention will be explained in detail below. First, the bound spun yarn used in the present invention consists of a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle and bound fibers wound around the core fiber bundle. Here, the binding spinning system is used because
This is to create a mild texture in combination with the thickness of the constituent staple fibers of the binding spun system, which will be described later. The staple fibers constituting such a bound spun yarn may have either equal length or unequal length. The average fiber length of the staple fibers is 100 mm or less, preferably 25 to 100 mm, and more preferably 30 to 80+ nm. Barefoot, 100mm
This is because if it exceeds this value, it approaches a filament and lacks a soft and warm feeling.

Additionally, the fineness (denier) of staple fibers greatly affects the mild texture of the yarn. If it exceeds 1.3 denier, it will be difficult to obtain a mild texture even if a bound spun yarn is used, so 1.3 denier or less is preferably 0.1 to 1.2 denier, more preferably 0.3 to 1.0 denier. Make it denier.

In addition, the thickness of the binding spun system is preferably 1 in English cotton count.
6 to 200'', more preferably 30 to 80''.

If it exceeds 200", the number of constituent fibers will decrease and the warm feeling will be poor. On the other hand, if it is less than 16'5, it will lack softness.The material of the staple fibers may be natural fibers such as cotton fibers or wool fibers. , synthetic fibers including polyester fibers may be used, but polyester fibers are preferred.

Furthermore, the bound spun yarn mentioned above must have a twist coefficient of twist of 4.0 or less, preferably 3.5 or less, and more preferably 3.0 or less in inch system. The twist coefficient here is expressed as T = K Fhl, where T is the number of twists (t/in) and Ne is the English cotton count.

Here, the above-mentioned twist must exist in such a direction that as a result of twisting the bundled spun yarn, the uneven appearance on the surface of the bundled spun yarn almost disappears.

In the case of a bound spun yarn in which the surface of the bound spun yarn has hardly any uneven appearance, it is preferable that the twist exists in the same direction as the direction of the bound fibers. On the other hand, if the spun bundle yarn has a conspicuous uneven appearance, the presence of twists in the direction opposite to the direction of the bundled fibers will eliminate the uneven appearance of the surface of the twisted yarn. Preferably, it exists. The reason why the bundled spun yarn is twisted in this way is to improve the drapability of the woven fabric.

Further, the twisted yarns of such bound spun yarns are used as either the warp or the weft, or both the warp and the weft to form a woven fabric. Examples of the above twisted yarns include one or more S direction twisted yarns and Z direction twisted yarns alternately, one or more S direction twisted yarns only (single twist), or one or more Z direction twisted yarns only (single twist). (twisting)

In addition, the cover factor in the present invention is usually 800 to 1700. About weft 600-12
It is 00. Cover factor CF is CF=NXFL
1. Hail. Here, N is the number/in, and D
e is denier.

Here, the method for manufacturing the woven fabric of the present invention will be explained. First, a sliver is produced using raw staple fibers cut to equal lengths, or a sliver made of staple fibers cut to unequal lengths is produced by cutting tow or multifilament yarn.

The sliver is then wrapped, for example, by the action of a traveling fluid using one fluid plate thermal nozzle so that the bound fibers are wrapped around a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle, or two The action of the circulating fluid flow in opposite directions causes the ridged fibers to wrap around the substantially untwisted core fiber bundle.Of course, within the range that does not impede the effects of the present invention. Although some filaments may be included in addition to the staple fibers on the ridges, 100% staple fibers are preferable.

Next, the bundled spun yarn produced in this manner is additionally twisted in a direction that eliminates the uneven appearance of the bundled spun yarn. In addition,·
In the case of a spun bundle yarn in which the spun bundle yarn itself has hardly any uneven appearance, it is preferable to additional twist in the same direction as the winding direction of the bundle fibers. The twist is a twist coefficient of 4.0 or less, preferably 3.5 or less, more preferably 3.0 or less.

Furthermore, the twisted yarn thus obtained preferably has a
Heat set at 05°C for 115-40 minutes. A woven fabric is woven using the heat-treated twisted yarn as either the warp, the weft, or both. At this time, either one twist or one or more twists may be used. Thereafter, the fabric is subjected to dyeing processes including, for example, scouring-relaxation, weight reduction processing, and dyeing.

(Example) Example 1 Polyester multifilament yarn (75d/3
6f), the weft is a bundled spun yarn 60 made of staple fibers of polyester fibers cut to equal lengths of 0.7d x 38s.
(A spinning machine with two false twisting nozzles was used.) was applied with an Italian twisting machine with various twist coefficients in the same direction as the wrapping direction of the bundled fibers, and was casted at 95"C x 40 minutes. The density is 160/! 0.1 latitude density 85 lines/in
, weaved plain textiles. The cover factor of the warp was 1386, and the cover factor of the weft was 800. Relaxed, weight-reduced and dyed,
The fabrics were evaluated by 10 sensory testers and are shown in Table 1.

As is clear from Table 1, those with twists having a twist coefficient of 3.5 or less had a mild texture and good drapability.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the present invention has the remarkable effect of providing a fabric using bound spun yarn that is soft, warm, mild, and has excellent drapability.

Patent applicant: Toyobo Co., Ltd.

Claims (1)

[Claims] A bundled spun yarn consisting of a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle and bundled fibers wrapped around the core fiber bundle has a twisted yarn with almost no uneven appearance as either the warp or the weft, Or a woven fabric in which both the warp and the weft are used, the twisted yarn has a twist with a twist coefficient of 4.0 or less, and the average fiber length of the staple fibers constituting the bound spun yarn is 100.
A woven fabric using bound spun yarn, characterized in that the staple fiber has a fineness of 1.3 denier or less.