JPS63120135A - Yoryu creped fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Abstract] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Application Field) The present invention is a horizontally grained willow fabric that has fine and sharp grains, has few grain spots, has excellent drapability, is warm, and has a silky luster. Regarding.

(Prior Art) Conventional willow-textured fabrics are broadly classified into a willow-textured fabric using 100% spun yarn and a willow-textured fabric using 100% filament yarn. The former includes natural fibers such as cotton fibers and hemp fibers,
It is made by strongly twisting spun yarn using synthetic stable fibers and woven with a single twist on the weft, but it generally has a coarse grain and lacks fine and sharp grain, and also has poor drapability. It lacked softness. Furthermore, this willow grained fabric was still a step up in terms of texture.

On the other hand, the latter has a delicate and sharp grain and has good drapability, but the grain is monotonous like an embossed cane, and the texture is plastic-like and lacks softness and warmth. , it was a far cry from conventional willow-textured fabrics. Although these conventional willow textured fabrics are used for spring/summer clothing, they are unsuitable for fall/winter clothing, and are monotonous both in texture and form. .

Furthermore, in recent years, various studies have been conducted on methods for producing so-called bound spun yarns using fluid false twisting nozzles, and textured fabrics have also been proposed using bound spun yarns obtained by this method (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1983-1993). -88862). However, the fabric obtained by this method was intended to have a georgette look, and was not a willow-textured fabric.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the conventional grained fabrics, has characteristics in both texture and form, has sharp and fine grains, and has [less spots]. To provide a willow-textured fabric with excellent drapability and warmth without being monotonous.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the problems. That is, in the present invention, the highly twisted yarn of a bundled spun yarn consisting of a core fiber bundle and bundled fibers wound around the core fiber bundle is twisted in one direction and is arranged as a weft, and the filament yarn or spun yarn is arranged as a warp. This is a willow textured fabric made of a willow textured fabric, characterized in that the twist coefficient (in inch system) of the strong twist yarn is 6 to 6.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

First, the weft yarns of the willow textured fabric of the present invention are:
This is a highly twisted yarn made of bound spun yarn. Here, the bound spun yarn is
It consists of a core Mji Ito and bundled fibers wrapped around it, but this core fiber bundle is made of 100% staple fiber and has good elasticity, and the presence of filaments makes it soft. , preferably staple fiber 100
% is preferable. This is to give off a sense of warmth. The stable fibers may be of equal length or unequal length (cut or mixed with different fiber lengths). The average fiber length of the stable fibers is preferably 25 to 25.
It is 100 1, more preferably 30 to 801 .

If the yarn exceeds 100 gm, the texture approaches that of a filament and lacks warmth, while if the yarn exceeds 25 gm, the symmetry of the yarn decreases and grain spots become noticeable. Furthermore, the fineness (denier) of the stable fibers greatly affects the flexibility of the yarn, which in turn greatly affects the uniformity of the untwisting force. Therefore, the fineness (denier) is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2.0 denier, more preferably 0.3 to 1.0 denier. When it exceeds 2.0 denier, the flexibility of the yarn decreases, making it difficult to produce sharp grains, and when it becomes less than 0.1 denier, the untwisting force becomes uneven, making it difficult to produce fine grains. Further, the thickness of the bound spun yarn is preferably 16 to 2 in English cotton count.
00'S, more preferably 30-80'S. 2
If it exceeds 00'S, fine grains can be obtained, but the number of constituent fibers decreases and the untwisting force decreases, resulting in sharp grains.On the other hand, if it is less than 16'S, it becomes difficult to twist, resulting in fine grains. The material of the staple fibers constituting the bound spun yarn is preferably synthetic fiber, and particularly preferably polyester fiber.

Here, the reason why bound spun yarn is used for the weft in the present invention is to create a warm texture, and
This is to make use of the evenness of the threads to reduce grain spots and create fine grains.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned bound spun yarn is used as a strongly twisted yarn. When the strongly twisted yarn of the bound spun yarn has a predetermined twist coefficient, in combination with the single twist described below, a cross-row willow textured fabric can be obtained.

Here, if the direction of the strong twist is a single yarn of bound spun yarn, it is preferable to make it the same as the winding direction of the bound fiber, and if strong twist is added to the doubled yarn of bound spun yarn, It is preferable to apply strong twist, so-called combined twist, in the same direction as the binding direction of the bundled fibers.

Furthermore, it is preferable to combine a plurality of bundled spun yarns and strongly twist them for the following reason. This is to create a fine grain pattern and excellent drape properties. From this point of view, 2 to 4 are preferable out of the plurality, and 2 to 3 are particularly preferable.

The twist coefficient here is multiplied by the number of twists (t/in). When the twisting coefficient is less than 6, the untwisting force becomes poor and grain spots occur, sharp grains are difficult to appear, and the horizontal row willow effect, which is important for the present invention, is difficult to appear, and when the twisting coefficient exceeds 16. The twist becomes unstable, and it becomes difficult to set, causing wrinkle spots.Furthermore, the warmth is lost, a crepe effect appears, and the horizontal tiered willow effect is lost. For this reason, it is necessary to set the twist coefficient (inch system) to 6 to 16. More preferably, it is 8-14.

Next, the strongly twisted yarn of the above bound spun yarn must be arranged in a single twist on the weft. This is because the willow textured fabric uses highly twisted yarns in a single twist for the weft. Single-twist means that the twisting direction of the highly twisted yarn is, for example, if the yarn is a 2-strong twist, only the 2-strong yarn is used, and if the yarn is an S-strong yarn, only the S-strong yarn is used.

Furthermore, the warp used is filament yarn or spun yarn. Here, filament yarn means both multifilament yarn and monofilament yarn, but among these, multifilament yarn is preferable because it gives silky luster to the textured fabric.

Note that it is preferable that the multifilament yarn is substantially untwisted. Substantially no twist means that the number of twists is preferably 30.
0 t/m or less, more preferably 250 t/m or less. Furthermore, it is preferable to use spun yarn for the warp instead of filament yarn in order to increase the warm feeling. Spun yarns include ring-spun B7 yarn, bundled spun yarn, oven-end yarn, etc.
Among these, it is preferable to use Kenkiri bound spun yarn in order to make the grain finer. In addition, when using bundled spun yarn for the warp, the twist coefficient is 0.98 to 3.5 in the same direction as the bundled fibers.
You may also add a twist. This is to further add cohesiveness to the fiber bundle forming the core of the bound spun yarn, to increase the untwisting torque of the weft yarn, and to obtain a stiff and taut feel.

The material of the spun yarn may be synthetic fiber, preferably polyester fiber, as long as it is a staple fiber 4P (equal length or unequal length).

Here, the characteristics of the willow textured fabric of the present invention will be further explained with reference to the drawings. A major feature of the willow grained fabric of the present invention is that it exhibits a horizontal row of willow grains, which is achieved by using a single twist of highly twisted bound spun yarn (with a predetermined twist coefficient) as the weft. It is something that FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a willow textured fabric F according to the present invention, and 1, 2, and 3 indicate horizontal steps, respectively. Figure 2 is a photograph of the actual surface of the willow textured fabric of the present invention, and horizontal steps can be seen here and there on the surface.
The form was also interesting and not monotonous. In addition, a textured fabric with a warm texture can be obtained. Figure 3 is a photograph of the actual surface of a traditional Yanagi textured fabric using multifilament yarn for the warp and double thread of ring-spun yarn of 60's for the weft, and the surface photograph is monotonous. there were.

Here, the method for manufacturing the willow textured fabric of the present invention will be explained. First, a sliver is produced using raw staple fibers cut to equal lengths, or a sliver made of staple fibers cut to unequal lengths is produced by cutting tow or multifilament yarn. The sliver is then drafted such that the bound fibers are wrapped around a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle by the action of a swirling fluid, for example using one fluid false twisting nozzle; The action of the swirling fluids in opposite directions causes the bundled fibers to wrap around the substantially untwisted core fiber bundle. Of course, some filaments may be included in addition to the above-mentioned staple fibers as long as they do not impede the effects of the present invention, but it is preferable to use 100% staple fibers.

Either the single yarn of the bound spun yarn thus obtained is given a predetermined number of twists, preferably in the same direction as the winding direction of the bound fibers, to prepare a strongly twisted yarn, or a plurality of single yarns of the bound spun yarn are combined. Preferably, highly twisted yarn is used by giving a predetermined number of twists in the winding direction of the binding fibers.

Next, when the binding fibers are wound in two directions, a strong twist in the Z direction is added to 11! If only the I-twisted yarn is used as the weft, or if the wrapping direction of the bundled fiber is in the S direction, then the S is added with a strong twist in the SX direction.
A predetermined fabric is woven using only highly twisted yarns as weft yarns and filament yarns or spun yarns as warp yarns, and this gray fabric is preferably subjected to a texture treatment without being embossed to obtain a cross-tiered willow textured fabric.

(Example) Example 1 Polyester multifilament yarn (50d/3
6f), weft is 0.7a, average fiber length is 38III
A bundled spun yarn 60'S (wrapping direction S of the bundled fibers) made of polyester fibers cut to unequal lengths of I11 was produced, and then two yarns were combined and strongly twisted at 2280 threads/M in the S direction (twisting coefficient 10.7) and cassetted at 98°C for 40 minutes, and then twisted in a single twist to produce a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 167 threads/in- + a weft density of 72 threads/1n! After 2 weaving, the greige was treated with a normal pressure washer without ebossing, and reduced with caustic soda at a weight loss rate of 18%.
A horizontally tiered willow-textured fabric shown in the figure was obtained. This embossed fabric had a fine, sharp embossment with few embossments, and had a very intricate and elegant horizontal tiered willow embossment.

In addition, as a conventional grained fabric, the warp is multifilament yarn (50d/36f), the weft is ring spun yarn 60'S/1 double yarn (S + natural), and 22007/H S twist is added. When a similar willow-textured fabric was produced, only a monotonous fabric was obtained as shown in Figure 3.

Example 2 A bundled spun yarn 60'S made of polyester staple fibers (0.7 d average fiber length 44-mV) was used for the warp, and polyester staples were cut into unequal lengths with an average fiber length of 44 mm and 0.7 d for the weft. Bundle made of fibers Spun yarn eo
'sc binding fibers are produced in the winding direction S), then two are combined and twisted at 2280T/M in the S direction (twisting coefficient 10.7).
) and cassetted at 98°C for 40 minutes. Latitude density 72 lines/I
A woven fabric with a plain weave of 100 mm was produced, and the gray fabric was subjected to a embossment treatment using a normal pressure washer, and the weight was reduced with caustic soda at a weight loss rate of 20% to obtain a horizontally woven willow embossed fabric. This fabric had a warmer feel and was softer than the horizontally grained willow fabric of Example 1.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the willow grained fabric of the present invention has fine and sharp grains, has excellent drapability, has a silky luster, and is of high quality with horizontal tiers.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

1 and 2 relate to the present invention; FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a willow textured fabric, FIG. 2 is a surface photograph of the willow textured fabric, and FIG. 3 is a surface photograph of a conventional willow textured fabric. F...Yoryu grain fabric 1...Horizontal tier 2...Horizontal tier 3...Horizontal tier

Claims (1)

[Claims] A willow textured fabric in which strong twist yarns of bound spun yarn consisting of a core fiber bundle and binding fibers wound around the core fiber bundle are arranged in a single twist as weft yarns, and filament yarns or spun yarns as warp yarns. A willow textured fabric, characterized in that the twist coefficient (inch system) of the strongly twisted yarn is 6 to 16.