JPH0120255B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

TECHNICAL FIELD This invention relates to a composite textured yarn having a spun-like texture and a method for producing the same. Conventional technology Processed yarn fabrics, represented by false twisted processed yarns, have excellent bulk and are suitable for medium-weight and thick fabrics, but the texture due to crimping is emphasized rather than the texture/touch unique to raw yarn filaments. Therefore, in recent years, its monotonous crimp texture has come to be disliked with the expression "wooly smelling". On the other hand, silky fabrics, represented by differentially shrinkable blended yarns, are suitable for thin fabrics, and have a texture that closely reflects the characteristics of the raw filaments used there.
Although it can be expressed in tatsushi, it lacks bulk to be used for medium-thickness and thick fabrics. Therefore, in recent years, as a means of improving the feel of materials for medium-weight and thick fabrics, a mixed fiber entangling process using a combination of false-twisted crimped yarn and filament yarn has been applied. As an example, conventionally, air-entangled yarn of flat yarn and false-twisted crimped yarn is made by pulling both yarns together, entangling them under conditions with an overfeed rate of 0.5 to 1.5%, and then subjecting them to boiling water treatment after weaving and crimping them. A method for expressing this has been proposed. In this case, the crimped yarn shrinks more than the flat yarn due to crimp development, and the crimped yarn comes out more on the outer surface of the yarn than the flat yarn, so the texture of the fabric is similar to that of the normal crimped yarn. It had a woolly smell, not much different from processed yarn fabric. In addition, in an attempt to solve this problem, there have been attempts to increase the boiling water shrinkage rate of the crimped yarn component to 10% or more, but in this case, since the treatment is to create bulk under the constraint of the textile structure, the yarn Due to the large shrinkage stress of It became. For this reason, the woolly texture still remains unresolved, and since flat yarns and crimped yarns generally have different luster, flat streaks may appear, and in the case of heterochromatic yarns, a scratch-like appearance may occur. As a result, there was a problem in that it was not possible to obtain a luxurious heathered or marbled appearance. Purpose of the Invention The purpose of the present invention is to improve the above drawbacks, and to effectively exhibit the bulkiness of the false twisted crimped yarn and the texture effect of the flat yarn, and to provide an improved spun-like style. It is an object of the present invention to provide a composite processed yarn and a method for producing the same, which can obtain a woven or knitted fabric that has excellent texture and aesthetic appearance. Structure of the Invention The present inventors thought that it was necessary to create a visible yarn morphology because there is a limit to the conventional morphology expression by boiling water shrinkage treatment in a textile structure. By combining crimped yarns and flat yarns with high apparent crimpability, and performing mixed fiber entanglement treatment at a high overfeed rate that cannot be stably processed by ordinary entanglement treatment, the desired improvement can be achieved. The inventors have discovered that a composite textured yarn can be obtained, and have arrived at the present invention. That is, the present invention provides (1) an air-entangled yarn of a flat yarn A and a false twisted crimped yarn B, in which, along the longitudinal direction, () a tightening yarn in which the A yarn and the B yarn are mixed and intertwined; Part and () A around the B yarn which is in the state of crimp.
A composite processed yarn characterized by having bulky parts surrounded by (thread) and overhanging in a spindle shape alternately, and in which there is no substantial difference in yarn length between the A yarn and the B yarn. and (2) flat yarn A and false twisted crimped yarn B having an apparent crimp rate of 8% or more are aligned and subjected to a mixed fiber entangling treatment under conditions of an overfeed rate of 3% or more. This is a method for manufacturing composite processed yarn. The present invention will be explained below with reference to the accompanying drawings. FIG. 1 is a side view schematically showing the composite processed yarn of the present invention, in which 1 is a tightening portion formed by intertwining flat yarn A and false twisted crimped yarn B, 2 is a bulky portion, and 2 is a bulky portion. Unlike the tightening part 1, the crimped B threads are relatively located in the core and the A threads are arranged around them, giving a spindle-like appearance as a whole. Such processed yarn can be obtained by the method described below. FIG. 2 schematically shows an example of the processing process. The raw yarn A used as a false twisted crimped yarn is fed from a feed roller 7 through a guide 5 and a tension adjustment device 6, twisted to a sufficiently twisted state by a false twisting device 9, and then twisted by a heater 10. Crimped yarn B that is heat-set and has a high actual crimp rate
It is said that Next, it is mixed with the raw yarn A used as a flat yarn, and is supplied to the nozzle 11 for intermixing and entangling by the first delivery roller 10 using the free shrinkage force due to its high actual crimp, and after the interlacing treatment, it is passed to the second delivery roller 12. After that, it is wound up. The interlacing nozzle used here is preferably a commonly used nozzle for interlace processing, and a nozzle that forms a fine loop structure such as a Taslan nozzle is not suitable. However, since the interlace nozzle does not have the ability to absorb and eject yarn in the running direction, the overfeed rate in normal processing is at most 2.
It can only be taken up to %. On the other hand, the feature of the processing method of the present invention is that while using such an interlace nozzle, the free shrinkage force of processed yarn with a high actual crimp rate is used to incorporate flat yarns, resulting in a high overfeed rate. The point is that the fibers are mixed and entangled. The overfeed rate in the air entanglement treatment must be at least 3%; if it is less than this, the bulky portion where the flat yarn protrudes like a spindle will not be formed properly. The overfeed rate is preferably 4 to 10%. In the present invention, the actual crimp rate of the false twisted yarn is at least 8%, preferably 10% or more, and 8%
If it is lower, even if the overfeed rate of the interlacing process is set to 3% or more, the running yarn will slack between the first delivery roller 10 and the interlacing nozzle 11, and will be taken by the roller 10, which cannot run. This will cause thread breakage. A false twisted yarn with a high actual crimp rate can be obtained, for example, as follows. During the false twisting process, the number of false twists is increased to the maximum possible length, and the heater temperature is also raised to ensure sufficient heat setting. If the raw yarn used for false twisting is also polyester, the spinning speed is 3000~
4000m/min POY (Partially Oriented Yarn)
A disk-type or belt-type friction false-twisting device is suitable because it is fast and can easily give a high degree of false-twisting. Furthermore, it is better to directly connect false twisting and air entanglement treatment to prevent potential crimp. As described above, processed yarn processed with a high number of false twists has a low torque and is therefore preferable in that it does not cause grain defects such as wrinkles in the fabric. In addition, it is preferable that the boiling water shrinkage rate of the false-twisted yarn is low; if it exceeds 8%, when bulkiness is developed under the constraints of the textile structure, the shrinkage stress will succumb to the shrinkage stress and the bulkiness will not be able to be effectively developed. cause problems. On the other hand, flat yarns are not particularly limited. Although filament yarns made of synthetic fibers or semi-synthetic fibers can be used, it is preferable to use filament yarns that are characterized by their texture and appearance. For example, it is preferable to use polyester irregular cross-section yarn, glossy yarn, pressure-dyeable yarn, thick-and-thin yarn, and the like. On the other hand, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the flat yarn is preferably 8% or less, preferably 5% or less, from the viewpoint of maintaining the spindle-shaped bulky portion, and is preferably lower than the boiling water shrinkage rate of the crimped yarn. In order to effectively exhibit the combined effect of the tightening parts and bulky parts of the processed yarn of the present invention, the number of tightening parts is 60.
It is necessary to use at least 70 ke/m, preferably at least 70 ke/m. If it is less than 60 strands/m, the texture will be a little bulky, and the arrangement of the crimped yarns and flat yarns in the bulky parts will be side-by-side, resulting in a woolly appearance and a dull appearance. The denier composition of the false twisted crimped yarn and the flat yarn preferably has a total denier ratio of 25:75 to 65:35; outside this range, either one of the hand effects will be too much or too little, resulting in an unsatisfactory result. The denier of single fibers is preferably 3 to 5 denier, as the thicker the crimped yarn, the better from the viewpoint of the stiffness and repulsion of the fabric. Measuring method of apparent crimp rate (VC) The crimped yarn is made into a skein of approximately 3000 denier and 30 cm in length.
Applying a light load of 2 mg/de and a heavy load of 200 mg/de, 1
After a minute has elapsed, read the total length l ₀ , immediately remove only the heavy load, and read the total length l ₁ after 1 minute of unloading. The actual crimp rate (VC) is calculated using the following formula. VC (%) = (l ₀ − l ₁ ) / l ₀ ×100 Functions and effects of the invention The tightening portion in which the false twisted crimped yarn and flat yarn of the processed yarn of the present invention are mixed and intertwined is a crimped yarn fabric. It suppresses the bulky feeling caused by its characteristic excessive bulkiness and gives a firm feel similar to that of worsted fabric. On the other hand, the bulky portion formed by the flat yarn surrounding the crimped yarn in a crimped state and protruding in a spindle shape gives the crimped yarn appropriate bulkiness and the texture effect of the outer layer flat yarn. Therefore, it is possible to eliminate the so-called woolly texture peculiar to false twisted yarns and obtain a new spun-like texture. In addition, the combination of different dyeing raw threads provides an aesthetically superior appearance with a fine heathered or marbled tone. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to express the feel of a flat yarn, which has a feeling of firmness and appropriate bulkiness, and has a slimy and silky feel, and furthermore, has a heathered texture. Woven and knitted fabrics with marbled texture and excellent aesthetics can be produced. Furthermore, since there is no substantial difference in yarn length between the crimped yarn and the flat yarn, weavability is also good. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn 225de/45f spun at a spinning speed of 3500 m/min according to the processing process shown in Fig. 2 was drawn at a draw ratio of 1.5 times, and the number of false twists and heater temperature were changed to give different actual crimp ratios (VC).
A crimped yarn of 150 de/48 f is aligned with a cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn of 225 de/96 f, the overfeed rate (OF) is changed, and the yarn is fed to an interlace nozzle, and the fibers are mixed and entangled at a compressed air pressure of 4 Kg/cm ² . A composite textured yarn having a tightening portion of 70 to 80 threads/m was obtained. The obtained processed yarn was made into a twill fabric and its texture and appearance were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1. In the table, No. 1 had a low VC, so yarn running was unstable and yarn breakage occurred. No. 2 and No. 8 had the textured yarn structure of the present invention, but there were some parts where the spindle-like overhang of the bulky part was slightly uneven. No.
6, No. 7 has a side-by-side arrangement of crimped yarn and flat yarn in the bulky part, and the resulting fabric has a woolly texture and touch, and the appearance is kasuri-like with long streaks. It was hot. Nos. 3, 4, 5 and Nos. 9, 10, and 11 have the textured yarn structure of the present invention, and the texture of the fabrics obtained from them has a worsted texture and moderate bulkiness. The surface touch was soft and slimy, and the appearance was fine with a fine heathered appearance.

[Table] Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn
False twisted crimped yarn consisting of 50de/36f with an actual crimp rate of 13% and cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn
100de/48f were aligned and fed to an interlace nozzle with an overfeed rate of 5%, and the number of tightening parts was changed by changing the air pressure. The obtained processed yarn was made into a twill weave fabric and its texture and appearance were evaluated. The results were as shown in Table 2. No. 1 had extremely few tightening parts, so the running stability of the yarn was poor, and the processed yarn could not be wound. No. 2 also has fewer tightening parts, and the arrangement of the crimped yarn and flat yarn in the bulky part is similar to side-by-side, and the texture of the fabric remains woolly.
The exterior had a rusty appearance. Nos. 3 to 7 had the yarn structure of the present invention, and the resulting fabrics had a spun-like texture and a fine heathered appearance.

[Table] Example 3 Polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (200 de/72 f, 3.5 mol% copolymerization of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate component) and 150 de/48 f polyethylene terephthalate crimped yarn with an actual crimp rate of 12%.
(density method crystallinity 44%, birefringence Δn=0.08) were aligned and supplied to an interlace nozzle, and entangled with an overfeed rate of 7% and a compressed air pressure of 4 Kg/cm ² . The obtained processed yarn is a composite processed yarn consisting of a tightening part of 92 strands/m and a bulky part where the flat yarn surrounds the crimped yarn and sticks out in a spindle shape. It has a spun-like texture and a soft, slimy touch.
A fine heathered appearance was obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 schematically shows the structure of the processed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing one embodiment of the process of carrying out the present invention. In the figure, 1: tightening part, 2: bulky part,
A: Flat yarn, B: False twisted crimped yarn, 9: False twisting device, 10: Mixed fiber entangling nozzle.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. An air-entangled yarn consisting of a flat yarn A and a false twisted crimped yarn B, wherein the yarn has, along its longitudinal direction, () a tightened yarn in which A yarn and B yarn are mixed and intertwined; Part and () A (thread) around the B thread that is in a crimp state.
A composite processed yarn is characterized in that it has alternating bulky parts surrounded by and overhanging in a spindle shape, and there is no substantial difference in yarn length between the A yarn and the B yarn. 2. Composite processing characterized by aligning the flat yarn A and the false twisted crimped yarn B having an apparent crimp rate of 8% or more and subjecting them to a blending and entangling treatment under conditions of an overfeed rate of 3% or more. Yarn manufacturing method.