JP3589511B2

JP3589511B2 - Polyester low crimped yarn

Info

Publication number: JP3589511B2
Application number: JP26425695A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 正勝奥村; 正幸藤原; 勉梅原
Original assignee: Unitika Ltd
Current assignee: Unitika Ltd
Priority date: 1995-10-12
Filing date: 1995-10-12
Publication date: 2004-11-17
Anticipated expiration: 2015-10-12
Also published as: JPH09111560A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は，糸条の長手方向に太部と細部を交互に有するフィラメントで構成され，高いドレープ性と優れた弾発性とを有する織編物を得るのに好適なポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は，強撚糸にして製織し，高い減量率で加工すれば，ドレープ性や弾発性のある布帛となるが，そのためには高度の加工技術が必要であり，通常の原糸や加工糸を用いると，必ずしも強撚や減量処理を施しても上記風合の布帛を得ることができなかった。
【０００３】
また，配向斑や太細斑を有するポリエステル糸条はよく知られており，その製造法も各種提案されている。例えば，特公平２−２９７７３号公報や特公平３−７２７３０号公報には，ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸を弛緩熱処理し，次いで冷延伸した後，スピンドルタイプの仮撚加工を施して得られた太細加工糸が開示されている。
【０００４】
この太細加工糸は，外観が凹凸形態を呈し，構成フイラメント間に大きな糸長差を有しているので嵩高性やソフト感等スパンライクな風合を有するが，ドレープ性に乏しく，また，高捲縮のクリンプを有するものの，張り，腰のある風合よりは，むしもヌメリ感が強く，弾発性に欠ける風合であった。
また，この加工糸にドレープ性や弾発性を付与するために撚糸やアルカリ減量加工等を行った場合，撚糸工程で太部が毛羽立ったり，糸切れを誘発する，アルカリ処理で太部が脆化する，等の問題があった。
【０００５】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は，上述した従来の太細加工糸の欠点を解消し，布帛に高いドレープ性と優れた弾発性及び適度なシャリ感を付与するとともに，後工程で毛羽や糸切れ等が発生し難い太細斑を有するポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸を提供することを技術的な課題とするものである。
【０００６】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者らは、上記の課題を解決するために鋭意研究した結果、本発明に到達した。
すなわち、本発明は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を構成する各々のフィラメントの長手方向に太部と細部が交互に形成され、前記太部と細部がフィラメント内及びフィラメント間でランダムに存在したトルクを有する捲縮加工糸であって、前記太部と細部の断面変化率はいずれも１．３以下であり、かつ、前記捲縮加工糸の物性が下記（１）〜（３）式
（１）Ｃ法伸長率１０％以下
（２）破断伸度５０〜１００％
（３）熱収縮応力（最大応力点での応力／繊度）０．１ｇ／ｄ以下
を満足することを特徴とするポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸を要旨とするものである。
【０００７】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下，本発明について詳細に説明する。
【０００８】
まず，本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸は，糸条を構成する各々のフィラメントの長手方向に太部と細部とを交互に有し，太細形態を呈する糸条である。
【０００９】
そして，この糸条から得られる布帛に自然な斑感を付与するためには，各フィラメントの長手方向に存在する太部と細部は，ランダムに分散していることが好ましい。
【００１０】
次に，上記した太部と細部の断面変化率はいずれも１．３以下という特性を有している。
スピンドルタイプやフリクションディスクタイプの施撚体で仮撚加工すると，円形断面糸から得られる太細加工糸の断面変化率は，図３に示すように特に太部は１．３を超えたものとなり，本発明の加工糸の断面を示す図２とは断面変化率が全く異なるものとなる。これは，スピンドルタイプやフリクションタイプの施撚体で仮撚加工する場合，ある程度延伸しながら仮撚加工しなければならず，しかも，仮撚係数が２００００以上の高仮撚数でないと安定した加工が難しく，このため，太細糸に高度の捻じり変形が与えられ，細部に比べて太部の断面変化率が大きい糸条となるためである。
【００１１】
このように，従来の太細加工糸は，図３に示すように，太部と細部の断面形状が大幅に異なり，フィラメントの長手方向において，太部から細部の間及び細部から太部の間で断面形状が大きく変化しながら繋がっているため，この部分が後工程での引張りやしごきに対して毛羽や糸切れが発生しやすいものである。
【００１２】
一方，本発明の加工糸は，太部，細部ともに断面変化率が１．３以下であり，ほとんど供給糸の断面形状に近い形状であるため，太部から細部及び細部から太部の間で極端な形状変化をすることなく滑らかな形状で繋がっており，このため，後工程での引張りやしごき等の外力に対して，毛羽や糸切れ等の発生がない。
【００１３】
さらに，本発明の加工糸は，Ｃ法伸長率が１０％以下であり，このため，捲縮の波形もゆるやかで，糸条の長手方向に滑らかな形態変化を呈し，極端な糸長差を有することなく，ゆるやかな波状捲縮を形成して集束した低捲縮性を有する糸条である。この集束した低捲縮加工糸は，糸条全体として円形に近い形態と低捲縮のクリンプ形態によるトルクを有すること等から，従来の太細加工糸に比べてドレープ性，弾発性，シャリ感が優れたものとなる。
加工糸のＣ法伸長率が１０％を超えると，加工糸の波状捲縮数が多くなるため，高捲縮の糸条となり，嵩高性やソフト感が強調され，ドレープ性や弾発性に欠ける風合となる。
【００１４】
次に，本発明の加工糸は，破断伸度が５０〜１００％で，かつ，熱収縮応力が０．１ｇ／ｄ以下の物性を有するものである。
上記のように，本発明の加工糸は，破断伸度がやや高く，かつ，熱収縮応力が小さいことからも明らかなように，十分に延伸されることなく中間的な配向性を有する不完全配向状態の糸条であり，従来の延伸された太細加工糸に比べて重量感のある物性を有することから，特にドレープ性に優れたものとなる。しかも，前記したように，太細形態を呈し，いわゆる配向斑繊維構造を有しており，凹凸形態と供給糸の断面に近い断面形状がミックスされ，糸条に弾発性やシャリ感が付与される。
【００１５】
加工糸の破断伸度が５０％未満になると糸条の太細形態が減少し，糸条の配向性が高くなり，ドレープ性や弾発性に欠けるものとなる。一方，破断伸度が１００％を超えると後工程で伸ばされやすく，糸条の形態変化が生じ，品質の安定した布帛とすることができない。
また，熱収縮応力が０．１ｇ／ｄを超えると，製編織した後の染色加工等の後工程で収縮して布帛が硬くなるので好ましくなく，熱収縮応力としては熱による変形が少ない０．１ｇ／ｄ以下，特に０．０２〜０．０９ｇ／ｄが好ましい。
【００１６】
図１は，本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸の一実施態様を示す側面模式図であり，糸条を構成するフィラメント内及びフィラメント間に太部ａと細部ｂがランダムに存在し，低トルクのゆるやかな波状の捲縮を有している。
このように，本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸は，太部と細部がほとんど変形されることなくゆるやかな低捲縮が付与され，糸条の断面変化率が１．３以下の形態を保っているため，後工程での引張りやしごき等の外力に対して，毛羽や糸切れ等の発生がなく，糸条の長手方向にゆるやかな波状捲縮と微弱な伸縮性及びトルクを有する加工糸である。
【００１７】
すなわち，本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸は，▲１▼太細斑を有すること，▲２▼断面形態が供給糸の断面形状をほぼ維持し，円形断面糸であれば円形に近いこと，▲３▼ゆるやかな波状捲縮を有すること，▲４▼トルクを有すること，▲５▼微弱な伸縮性を有すること，等の特性を有しているので，製編織して得られる布帛に，高いドレープ性と優れた弾発性及び適度なシャリ感を付与することができる。
【００１８】
本発明におけるポリエステルは，ポリエチレンテレフタレート（ＰＥＴ）で代表される分子鎖中にエステル結合を含有するポリエステルを総称し，５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸，イソフタル酸，パラオキシエトオキシ安息香酸等の第３成分を含有する変性ポリエステルでもよい。
【００１９】
次に，本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸の製法例を説明する。
供給糸として複屈折率（Δｎ）が２０×１０^−３〜８０×１０^−３のポリエステル高配向未延伸糸を用い，まずこの糸条に，オーバーフイード率１０％以上，温度３００〜７００℃，かつ，糸条の非接触ヒータの通過時間が０．０１〜０．１５秒となる条件で弛緩熱処理を施す。次いで，太細斑が発現する延伸倍率，例えば弛緩熱処理で収縮した糸長が元の糸長に復元する倍率で冷延伸した後，施撚体として流体旋回ノズルを用い，仮撚係数Ｋが３０００〜１５０００の低仮撚数で仮撚加工して目的とする低捲縮加工糸を得る。なお，仮撚係数Ｋは，Ｋ＝仮撚数（Ｔ／Ｍ） × （供給糸の繊度：デニール）^１／２で定義されるものである。また，仮撚加工後に，流体交絡処理を施して糸条に集束性を付与してもよい。
【００２０】
図４は，本発明の低捲縮加工糸の製法例を示す概略工程図である。図４において，ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸１は，第１フィードローラ２を経て第２フィードローラ４との間でヒータ３により弛緩熱処理が施された後，第２フィードローラ４と第３フィードローラ５との間で冷延伸されて太細斑を有する糸条となる。
【００２１】
次いで，太細斑を形成した糸条は，第３フィードローラ５と第１デリベリローラ１０との間で流体旋回ノズル８で施撚されつつ，仮撚ヒータ７で熱固定され，低捲縮加工糸となる。引き続き，第１デリベリローラ１０と第２デリベリローラ１２との間に設けられた流体交絡装置１１で混繊交絡処理が施された後，第２デリベリローラ１２を経てパッケージ１３に捲き取られる。なお，太細糸の仮撚加工は延伸倍率が１．００〜１．１０倍程度の低張力で施すのが好ましく，低張力での糸の走行を安定させるため，仮撚ヒータ７の上流側と流体旋回ノズル８の下流側にそれぞれ回転ローラガイド６，９を設けるのが好ましい。
【００２２】
本発明における各物性は，次の方法で求めたものである。
（１）断面変化率
加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの外接円の直径と内接円の直径との比を，供給糸を構成する単フィラメントの外接円の直径と内接円の直径との比で除した値である。
（２）Ｃ法伸長率と破断伸度
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９０（加工糸）に準拠して測定するものである。
（３）熱収縮応力
熱応力測定器とこれに連動した記録装置を用いて次の方法で測定するものである。
まず，試料をサンプリング治具を用いて５ｃｍの輪にし，次に，熱応力測定器と記録装置を温度２０〜３００℃，応力０〜５０ｇの範囲に設定し，試料を熱応力測定器の上部と下部のフックにかけて，デニール当たり１／１０ｇの初荷重をかけた後，測定を行う。昇温速度は３００℃／１２０秒で行う。測定は３回行い，最大応力点での応力（ｇ）を読み取り，熱収縮応力（ｇ／ｄ）＝最大応力（ｇ）／試料の繊度（デニール）で計算する。
【００２３】
【実施例】
次に，本発明を実施例に基づいて具体的に説明する。
【００２４】
実施例１〜３，比較例１〜２
供給糸として８０ｄ／２４ｆと１６０ｆ／３６ｆのＰＥＴ高配向未延伸糸及びカチオン可染性ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸８０ｄ／１２ｆを用い，図４に示す工程に従い，表１に示す条件で低捲縮加工糸を製造した。
【００２５】
実施例１〜３で得られた加工糸には，糸条の長手方向に太部と細部がランダムに形成され，仮撚係数が６５００〜８８００の低捲縮形態であり，断面変形もほとんどなく，図１に示すように，ゆるやかな波状捲縮とトルクを有する糸条であった。特に実施例３で得られた加工糸は，ＰＥＴ糸とカチオン可染性糸が混繊されているため，染色すると杢形態を呈するものであった。
【００２６】
これらの加工糸をそれぞれ経糸と緯糸に使用し，経糸密度１１５本／２．５４ｃｍ，緯糸密度７５本／２．５４ｃｍの２／２ツイル組織で製織した。また，福原社製ＸＬ−ＰＬ２（２０Ｇ×２６″）の編機を用い，天竺組織の編地を製編した。
得られた織物と編物を通常のポリエステル処方で染色仕上げ加工した。
得られた布帛の評価結果を表１に示す。
【００２７】
【表１】

【００２８】
表１から明らかなように，実施例１〜３で得られた布帛は，いずれも高いドレープ性を有し，また，弾発性に優れ，そしてシャリ感のある風合を呈するものであった。
【００２９】
一方，比較例１〜２では，加工糸に切れ毛羽が多く，得られた布帛は，高捲縮でドレープ性に欠けるものであった。
【００３０】
【発明の効果】
本発明の加工糸は，▲１▼太細斑を有する，▲２▼断面形態が供給糸の断面に近い，▲３▼ゆるやかな波状捲縮を有する，▲４▼トルクを有する，▲５▼微弱な伸縮性を有する，こと等から，製編織して得られる布帛に高いドレープ性と優れた弾発性及び適度なシャリ感を付与することができる。また，追撚，製編織等の後工程でのしごきや引張り等の外力に対して，毛羽や糸切れ等が発生することがなく，高速かつ安定して後加工することが可能である。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸の一実施態様を示す側面模式図である。
【図２】本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸の一実施態様を示す断面図である。
【図３】従来の太細加工糸の断面図である。
【図４】本発明のポリエステル系低捲縮加工糸の製法例を示す概略工程図である。
【符号の説明】
ａ太部
ｂ細部
１ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸
３ヒータ
７仮撚ヒータ
８旋回ノズル
１１流体交絡装置[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyester-based low crimped yarn suitable for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having high drapability and excellent elasticity, which is composed of filaments having alternately thick portions and details in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It is about.
[0002]
[Prior art]
If polyester multifilament yarn is woven into a high twist yarn and processed at a high weight loss rate, it will become a fabric with drapability and elasticity, but for this purpose, advanced processing technology is required and ordinary raw yarn is used. When a woven yarn or a processed yarn is used, a cloth having the above-mentioned feeling cannot always be obtained even when a strong twist or weight reduction treatment is performed.
[0003]
In addition, polyester yarns having alignment unevenness and thick and thin unevenness are well known, and various production methods have been proposed. For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-29773 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-72730 describe that a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, then cold drawn, and then subjected to spindle type false twisting. A textured yarn is disclosed.
[0004]
This thick and thin yarn has an uneven appearance and has a large yarn length difference between the constituent filaments, so it has a spun-like feel such as bulkiness and softness, but it has poor drape properties. Despite having a high crimp crimp, the texture was more slimy and less elastic than the tight, waisted feel.
In addition, when twisted yarn or alkali weight reduction processing is performed to impart drapability or resilience to the processed yarn, the thick portion becomes fuzzy or breaks in the twisting process, and the thick portion is brittle by the alkali treatment. And other problems.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the conventional thick and thin processed yarns described above, imparts high drapeability, excellent resilience, and a moderate crispness to the fabric, and also causes fluff and yarn breakage in a post-process. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester-based low crimped yarn having hard and thin spots.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention.
That is, in the present invention, thick portions and details are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of each filament constituting the polyester multifilament yarn, and the thick portions and details have a torque randomly present in and between the filaments. In the crimped yarn, the cross-sectional change rate of each of the thick portion and the detail is 1.3 or less, and the physical properties of the crimped yarn are the following formulas (1) to (3). Method elongation 10% or less (2) Elongation at break 50-100%
(3) Heat-shrinkable stress (stress / fineness at maximum stress point) A polyester-based low crimped yarn characterized by satisfying 0.1 g / d or less.
[0007]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[0008]
First, the polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention is a yarn having a thick and thin form, having alternately thick portions and details in the longitudinal direction of each filament constituting the yarn.
[0009]
In order to impart a natural feeling to the fabric obtained from the yarn, it is preferable that the thick portions and details present in the longitudinal direction of each filament are randomly dispersed.
[0010]
Next, the cross-sectional change rates of the thick part and the detail described above are both 1.3 or less.
When false twisting is performed with a twisted body of the spindle type or friction disk type, the cross-sectional change rate of the thick and thin processed yarn obtained from the circular cross-section yarn, especially in the thick portion, exceeds 1.3 as shown in FIG. The rate of change in cross section is completely different from that in FIG. 2 showing the cross section of the processed yarn of the present invention. This means that when performing false twisting with a spindle type or friction type twisted body, false twisting must be performed while stretching to some extent, and stable twisting must be performed unless the false twist coefficient is a high false twist number of 20,000 or more. This is because a high degree of torsional deformation is applied to the thick and thin yarn, and the yarn has a larger cross-sectional change rate in the thick portion than in the detail.
[0011]
Thus, as shown in FIG. 3, the conventional thick and thin yarn has a greatly different cross-sectional shape from the thick portion to the fine portion. In this case, since the cross-sections are connected while greatly changing, this portion is liable to cause fluff and thread breakage due to tension or ironing in a later process.
[0012]
On the other hand, the processed yarn of the present invention has a cross-sectional change rate of 1.3 or less in both the thick portion and the fine portion, and has a shape almost similar to the cross-sectional shape of the supply yarn. The connection is made in a smooth shape without an extreme change in shape, and therefore, there is no generation of fluff or thread breakage against external force such as tension or ironing in a later process.
[0013]
Further, the processed yarn of the present invention has a C method elongation of 10% or less, and therefore has a gentle crimp waveform, exhibits a smooth morphological change in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and exhibits an extreme yarn length difference. This is a yarn having low crimpability, which is formed by forming a gentle wavy crimp without having it. This bundled low crimped yarn has a drape property, resilience, and a sharpness compared to conventional thick and thin yarns, because it has a torque that is close to a circular shape as a whole and a crimped shape with a low crimp. The feeling is excellent.
If the C-method elongation of the processed yarn exceeds 10%, the number of wavy crimps in the processed yarn increases, resulting in a high crimped yarn, emphasizing bulkiness and softness, and improving drape and elasticity. The texture will be lacking.
[0014]
Next, the processed yarn of the present invention has physical properties such that the elongation at break is 50 to 100% and the heat shrinkage stress is 0.1 g / d or less.
As described above, the processed yarn of the present invention has an intermediate imperfection without being sufficiently drawn, as is evident from the fact that the elongation at break is slightly high and the heat shrinkage stress is small. It is a yarn in an oriented state, and has physical properties that are heavier than conventional stretched thick and thin processed yarns, so that it is particularly excellent in drapability. Moreover, as described above, it has a thick and thin form, and has a so-called oriented mottling fiber structure. The uneven form and the cross-sectional shape close to the cross-section of the supply yarn are mixed to give the yarn elasticity and a sense of sharpness. Is done.
[0015]
When the breaking elongation of the processed yarn is less than 50%, the thin and fine form of the yarn is reduced, the orientation of the yarn is increased, and the drapability and elasticity are lacking. On the other hand, if the elongation at break exceeds 100%, the yarn is easily stretched in a later step, and the morphology of the yarn is changed, so that a fabric having stable quality cannot be obtained.
On the other hand, if the heat shrinkage stress exceeds 0.1 g / d, the fabric shrinks in a post-process such as dyeing after weaving and weaving, and the fabric becomes hard. It is preferably 1 g / d or less, particularly preferably 0.02 to 0.09 g / d.
[0016]
FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an embodiment of the polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention. The thick portion a and the detail b are present randomly in and between the filaments constituting the yarn. It has a wavy crimp with a gentle torque.
As described above, the polyester-based low-crimped yarn of the present invention has a mode in which the thick section and the details are provided with gentle low-crimping with almost no deformation and the cross-sectional change rate of the yarn is 1.3 or less. Because it is kept, there is no generation of fluff or yarn breakage against external force such as tension or ironing in the subsequent process, processing with gentle wavy crimp in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and weak elasticity and torque It is a thread.
[0017]
That is, the polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention must have (1) thick and fine spots, and (2) the cross-sectional shape should substantially maintain the cross-sectional shape of the supply yarn, and if the yarn has a circular cross-section, it should be nearly circular. , (3) has a gentle wavy crimp, (4) has a torque, (5) has a weak elasticity, etc. , High drapability, excellent resilience and moderate sharpness can be imparted.
[0018]
The polyester in the present invention is a generic term for polyesters having an ester bond in a molecular chain represented by polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and includes a third component such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and paraoxyethoxybenzoic acid. The modified polyester may be contained.
[0019]
Next, an example of a method for producing the polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention will be described.
As the supply yarn, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ is used. First, an overfeed rate of 10% or more, a temperature of 300 to 700 ° C. In addition, the relaxation heat treatment is performed under the condition that the passage time of the yarn through the non-contact heater is 0.01 to 0.15 seconds. Next, after cold drawing at a draw ratio at which thick spots appear, for example, a ratio at which the yarn length shrunk by the relaxation heat treatment is restored to the original yarn length, a fluid swirling nozzle is used as a twisted body, and the false twist coefficient K is 3000. False twisting is performed at a low false twist number of up to 15,000 to obtain the desired low crimped yarn. The false twist coefficient K is defined by K = number of false twists (T / M) × (fineness of supply yarn: denier) ^1/2 . Also, after the false twisting, a fluid entanglement treatment may be performed to impart bunching to the yarn.
[0020]
FIG. 4 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a low crimped yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 4, after a polyester 3 highly-oriented undrawn yarn 1 is subjected to relaxation heat treatment by a heater 3 between a first feed roller 2 and a second feed roller 4, a second feed roller 4 and a third feed roller 5 is cold-drawn to form a yarn having thick and thin spots.
[0021]
Next, the yarn having the thick and thin spots is heat-fixed by the false twist heater 7 while being twisted by the fluid swirling nozzle 8 between the third feed roller 5 and the first delivery roller 10, and the low crimped yarn is formed. It becomes. Subsequently, the fiber entanglement process is performed by the fluid entanglement device 11 provided between the first delivery roller 10 and the second delivery roller 12, and then wound up into the package 13 via the second delivery roller 12. In addition, the false twisting of the thick and thin yarn is preferably performed at a low tension at a draw ratio of about 1.00 to 1.10, and in order to stabilize the running of the yarn at a low tension, the upstream side of the false twist heater 7 is provided. It is preferable to provide rotating roller guides 6 and 9 on the downstream side of the fluid swirling nozzle 8, respectively.
[0022]
Each physical property in the present invention was determined by the following method.
(1) Rate of change in cross section The ratio of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the single filament constituting the processed yarn to the diameter of the inscribed circle is determined by the ratio of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the single filament constituting the supply yarn to the diameter of the inscribed circle. Divided by
(2) C method elongation and elongation at break Measured according to JIS-L-1090 (processed yarn).
(3) Heat Shrinkage Stress is measured by the following method using a thermal stress measuring device and a recording device associated therewith.
First, the sample was formed into a 5 cm loop using a sampling jig. Then, the thermal stress measuring device and recording device were set at a temperature of 20 to 300 ° C and a stress range of 0 to 50 g. After applying an initial load of 1/10 g per denier, the measurement is performed. The heating rate is 300 ° C./120 seconds. The measurement is performed three times, the stress (g) at the maximum stress point is read, and the heat shrinkage stress (g / d) = the maximum stress (g) / the fineness of the sample (denier) is calculated.
[0023]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples.
[0024]
Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-2
Using 80d / 24f and 160f / 36f PET highly oriented undrawn yarns and cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarns 80d / 12f as the supply yarns, according to the process shown in FIG. Fabricated yarn was manufactured.
[0025]
The processed yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 3 are randomly formed with thick portions and details in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, have a low crimping form with a false twist coefficient of 6500 to 8800, and have almost no cross-sectional deformation. As shown in FIG. 1, the yarn had a gentle wavy crimp and torque. In particular, the processed yarn obtained in Example 3 exhibited a heather form when dyed because the PET yarn and the cationic dyeable yarn were mixed.
[0026]
These processed yarns were used for the warp and the weft, respectively, and were woven in a 2/2 twill design with a warp density of 115 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 75 / 2.54 cm. Further, using a knitting machine of XL-PL2 (20G × 26 ″) manufactured by Fukuhara Corporation, a knitted fabric having an inlaid fabric was knitted.
The obtained woven fabric and knitted fabric were dyed and finished by a usual polyester formulation.
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained fabrics.
[0027]
[Table 1]

[0028]
As is clear from Table 1, the fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 3 had high drapability, were excellent in resilience, and exhibited a crisp feeling. .
[0029]
On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the processed yarn had a lot of fluff, and the obtained fabric was high in crimp and lacked drape.
[0030]
【The invention's effect】
The processed yarn of the present invention has (1) a thick and thin spot, (2) a cross-sectional shape similar to that of the supply yarn, (3) a gentle wavy crimp, (4) a torque, and (5). Since it has a weak elasticity, a fabric obtained by knitting and weaving can be imparted with high drapability, excellent resilience, and an appropriate sharpness. In addition, fluff and yarn breakage do not occur against external force such as ironing or pulling in a post-process such as post-twisting or weaving, and post-processing can be performed at high speed and stably.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing one embodiment of a polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing one embodiment of the polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a sectional view of a conventional thick and thin processed yarn.
FIG. 4 is a schematic process drawing showing an example of a method for producing a polyester-based low crimped yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
a thick part b thin part 1 polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 3 heater 7 false twist heater 8 swirl nozzle 11 fluid entanglement device

Claims

Thick portions and details are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of each filament constituting the polyester multifilament yarn, and the thick portions and details are crimped yarns having torque randomly present in and between filaments. Wherein the rate of change in cross section of the thick portion and the detail is 1.3 or less, and the physical properties of the crimped yarn satisfy the following formulas (1) to (3). Low crimped yarn.
(1) C method elongation rate 10% or less (2) Elongation at break 50-100%
(3) Heat shrinkage stress (stress / fineness at maximum stress point) 0.1 g / d or less